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Does anyone else's SV steer itself sharply to the inside of a turn for a split second when hitting a dip/large bump while leaned over?
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Dec 26, 2010 04:32
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That seems like it could be normal for any type of motorcycle depending on what kind of bump or dip we're talking about.
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Dec 26, 2010 07:11
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I suppose, but my ktm doesn't give a gently caress about similar road bumps at all, so it's always pretty startling the first time I hit a midcorner dip and get harsh handlebar feedback on the sv.
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Dec 26, 2010 07:18
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:I suppose, but my ktm doesn't give a gently caress about similar road bumps at all, so it's always pretty startling the first time I hit a midcorner dip and get harsh handlebar feedback on the sv. Checked the tire pressure? What front suspension are you using? How much do you weigh?
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Dec 27, 2010 15:58
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schreibs posted:Checked the tire pressure? What front suspension are you using? How much do you weigh? Pressure's what it's always been though I haven't hosed with it in a long time. Sonic Springs and heavier oil, no emulators. I'm 240, the front and back are sprung for my weight.
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Dec 28, 2010 02:30
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:Pressure's what it's always been though I haven't hosed with it in a long time. Sonic Springs and heavier oil, no emulators. I'm 240, the front and back are sprung for my weight. Hum, well i'm only good for the basics. I just assumed that since it was getting colder out your pressure dropped with the temperatures and you may not have been around long enough to know to check it out.
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Dec 28, 2010 06:02
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:Pressure's what it's always been though I haven't hosed with it in a long time. Sonic Springs and heavier oil, no emulators. I'm 240, the front and back are sprung for my weight. Double check your pressures, tires lose air pressure over time. Typically, I've run 34/36 on my SV with good results. If that doesn't solve the issue, I'd look into your head bearings. Loose head bearings can cause all kinds of wacky things while cornering, so not an impossibility.
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Dec 28, 2010 17:01
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Coredump posted:What's the deal with an SV1000? Would they be a good upgrade from a Sv650? Is it basically the same bike with a bigger engine? I read on Wiki that the SV1000 comes with gsxr forks, but they look like non upside down forks. Would it be possible to swap later models forks onto the SV1000? Don't sell your bike without giving me a heads up. Especially since you sharked me on it to begin with you big jerk. 
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Jan 7, 2011 01:16
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Getting an sv soon. http://miami.craigslist.org/brw/mcy/2141907742.html Less miles, new tires. But has suspension "thing." I emailed him, he says it works its just the outer tubes. I know its a super easy fix but I'm a noob. http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/mcy/2106279874.html Wont have to worry about fork thing but has more miles on it. (About 40K more miles on it) It seems to be a dealish-ish guy so I could probably trade my current scooter towards it too. Big plus. I'd sell it but it would be so much easier to go and trade my scooter and 1000$ cash for this one. TL:DR Can I ride home without the outer tubes and for maybe a week until I figure them out? I know about the whole gsxr swap, but I'd feel like doing the back too, so maybe for another time. Anyone whoes done the swap have any old sv650 front forks in ok condition?
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Jan 7, 2011 03:40
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frozenphil posted:Don't sell your bike without giving me a heads up. Especially since you sharked me on it to begin with you big jerk. Haha, absolutely. My bad. 
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Jan 7, 2011 18:59
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2003 SV's are the best. 
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Jan 7, 2011 19:47
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philkop posted:Getting an sv soon. Depends on what's damaged on the front on the first one. If it's the fork tubes are bent from an accident, I'd go with the other one, unless you have a friend with some mechanical experience to help you check it out. If it's leaking fork seals, that's not a big deal. Shouldn't you get more than 900$ for your scooter? If the higher mileage SV was well taken care of, it'd be fine, but I'd probably go for the other one first, depending on what's wrong with it. A friend of mine might have some forks for sale for a reasonable price if you need them.
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Jan 7, 2011 19:50
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Got the scoot on craiglist now for 1500.http://miami.craigslist.org/brw/mcy/2148526565.html I'd only take the deal purely out of laziness and not wanting to wait for craiglist buyers. Theres hardly any genuine scooters in my area. I live somewhat near miami so CL is flooded with dealers posting their poo poo Chinese scooters.
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Jan 7, 2011 21:04
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If anyone in the southwest is looking for a used SV650 I have one I'm looking to sell. It's a 2001 and just tipped over 30k but it's always treated me well and I kept it off the ground. It has some torn seats, thanks to the Arizona sun, and will need a new chain otherwise I tried to maintain it as best as possible. I'm in the phoenix metro area. Relevant to the thread, since I know this isn't the CA marketplace thread... I loved this bike and it treated me well for two years and 17k miles. I just bought a new house and truck and don't have the time to keep up with my toys.
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Jan 7, 2011 22:57
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Now that I have two bikes I think I have the balls to do the valves on my SV. I poked around on Bike Bandit and found a shim kit. I don't know if thats expensive, lovely brand, etc. Can anyone comment or recommend a shim kit? Also, are there any special tools I need to do this on a 2004 SV650N with 20k miles on the odometer? I have the typical range of sockets, breaker bars, torque wrenches but I'm not sure what I'll need. I have the Haynes manual so I'll research there first, but I was hoping for some first hand experience. After the valves I'll probably have a shop do the throttle body sync.
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Jan 7, 2011 23:55
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jdonz posted:Now that I have two bikes I think I have the balls to do the valves on my SV. I poked around on Bike Bandit and found a shim kit. I don't know if thats expensive, lovely brand, etc. Can anyone comment or recommend a shim kit? I suppose there's no need for a shim kit before you've checked the clearances, unless getting to the valves is a massive pain what with the gaskets and the water cooling and all. For sync I can recommend the Carbtune. http://www.carbtune.com/ I suppose it might be pricey for only two pots, but that's what I've tried and it's great.
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Jan 8, 2011 00:28
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You are right, I haven't checked the clearances. But, I also don't want to wait a week to get the shims after I find out what I need. I haven't really decided what I'll do yet, we'll see.
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Jan 8, 2011 00:50
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E: reading comprehension failure. It's been getting fairly difficult to turn my key in the ignition. I have to get it in just the right spot to turn the bike on. It's always been more than "insert key & turn", but it was never an issue. Whether it's the cold making it worse or not, it's pretty annoying, and I'd like it if there was a solution outside of buying a new lock set for the bike at $150. its all nice on rice fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Jan 10, 2011 |
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Jan 10, 2011 19:44
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Graphite powder will probably fix it.
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Jan 10, 2011 19:56
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I need a new rear tire (maybe a new front, but definitely the rear) but I am poor as poo poo. Recommend me a tire that won't break the bank but also won't dump me on my rear end? I do mostly freeway riding with occasional ventures out to the twisties.
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Jan 13, 2011 07:01
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I think they still make the original pilot roads, that'd be my choice. What size do you need? Edit: Goddamn it's obviously past my bedtime.  I'll assume there's no GSXR rear wheel swap going on here.
Z3n fucked around with this message at 07:15 on Jan 13, 2011 |
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Jan 13, 2011 07:06
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Haha, no, just the stock wheels. I'll look around and see if I can find a set of pilot roads on sale. Thanks!
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Jan 13, 2011 07:14
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benwards posted:Haha, no, just the stock wheels. I'll look around and see if I can find a set of pilot roads on sale. Thanks! Cheapest PR1 on ebay right now is 130$. You could get a pair of PR2s for around 300$ shipped, or just a rear for ~160$. What's your budget? Because the PR2s will have you set on tires for probably 12-15k on the front and 8-10k on the rear. What tires do you have on there at the moment?
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Jan 13, 2011 07:16
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Z3n posted:Cheapest PR1 on ebay right now is 130$. You could get a pair of PR2s for around 300$ shipped, or just a rear for ~160$. What's your budget? Because the PR2s will have you set on tires for probably 12-15k on the front and 8-10k on the rear. I've got Pirelli Stradas front and rear, courtesy of the PO. Budget-wise, well, I'm unemployed, and considering selling the bike sometime in the next couple of months, so it'd be nice to stick down around 100 bucks for the rear.
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Jan 13, 2011 07:21
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Just slap another diablo strada on the back then, they're the previous gen sport touring tire for pirelli so they should be around 100$. If you're really strapped for cash I have a DOT race takeoff you could have. Its burned up on the sides but fine in the center. Shouldn't be more that 15$ or so to ship, if you know someone who will mount it cheap it could get you through the lean spot.
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Jan 13, 2011 07:26
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Z3n posted:Just slap another diablo strada on the back then, they're the previous gen sport touring tire for pirelli so they should be around 100$. If you're really strapped for cash I have a DOT race takeoff you could have. Its burned up on the sides but fine in the center. Shouldn't be more that 15$ or so to ship, if you know someone who will mount it cheap it could get you through the lean spot. This Shinko tire looks like a good option, and I could grab one from the cyclegear nearby rather than deal with shipping. I appreciate the offer, but since I don't have a way of mounting it cheaply, I think it probably makes more sense to get a new tire and mount that, rather than mount a used tire now and another new tire later when I can better afford it.
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Jan 13, 2011 07:30
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As long as you remember you've got a budget rear tire on the back you'd be fine with that.
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Jan 13, 2011 16:47
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Hey err'one. I haven't read any of this thread (37 pages? gently caress that) But I'm checking in to say I just bought a 2002 SV650, 22k miles, for $2000, looks to be in great condition. Going to pick it up tomorrow, I just wish it weren't 17 loving degrees right now so I could get out and enjoy my purchase. This is my first foray into the biek world in 3 years, haven't ridden since I sold my Ninja 500 a couple years ago, I'm pumped to get back on 2 wheels.
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Jan 14, 2011 04:47
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You'll fit right in around these parts, the SV650 is well represented. It's probably Cycle Asylum's official bike, really.
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Jan 14, 2011 05:24
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sirbeefalot posted:I wish I could provide more insight as I just bought one, but... I just bought one. I've literally ridden it home and that's it. Hope to get some quality time in this weekend if possible. Have you had any opportunities to put some quality time in on your bike? Any one else with a SV1000 wanna chime in.
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Jan 14, 2011 21:56
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Coredump posted:Have you had any opportunities to put some quality time in on your bike? Any one else with a SV1000 wanna chime in. Yes and no, as in I've mostly commuted with it. I've never ridden an SV650 for comparison, but the 1k is quite nice both around town and on the freeway (when its not gridlock). Its very tame below 5k RPM, though with plenty of power still. Crank it up on the onramp, and whoops you're doing 125 MPH. It sounds like a prop plane at takeoff when you get above 6-7k, which makes me giggle a little every time. It seems to really want to stand back up in turns, not sure if that's a symptom of the steering damper or just different steering geometry than the Ninja, or something else. Beyond that, my only criticism would be that the tie downs aren't as good as the ones on my Ninja. They're all the way down at the passenger pegs, meaning you have to have a much longer bungee, and they're slightly forward of the pillion so sometimes stuff likes to slide forward a bit. I'm considering a top case to replace the spoiler with. Plus, the bungee rubs against the rear plastics which sucks. This is a stupid busy month at work for me, but hopefully next month it will be nice out and I can take a few weekend excursions to the mountains with it. sirbeefalot fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Jan 15, 2011 |
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Jan 15, 2011 02:52
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Coredump posted:Have you had any opportunities to put some quality time in on your bike? Any one else with a SV1000 wanna chime in. I've put quite a few miles on my 1000 ('05) -- He is right about the DC motor torque curve. It's nice. The bike is different (as I recall) from the few hundred I put on an '05 650 (with ABS!) a year or two ago. There's an '01 650 that I've ridden nearly back-to-back, and after riding the 1000, my impressions were:
* The brakes and front shocks on this bike are nowhere near as violent as the 1000 (and dive when braking was frightening). Albeit, the normal rider of that 650 is about 125lb. Compared to other bikes I've owned and ridden (Ninja 250, YZF600, Dirtbike, '01 SV650S, Rebel 250, coupla scooters, FZR600), the 1000:
* Starts up and is ready to go every time. * Doesn't really need the power commander that's on it. * Is semi-docile at lower speeds, but will do exactly what you tell it to at higher revs. * Has at least another 50lb on the similar SV650S, but doesn't really feel 'heavy'. * Is a V-twin, which I've noticed (only over very long rides) tends to numb your hands slightly -- think a lawnmower. Basically, the 1000 is a 50lb heaver 650 that never seems to hit a wall on power. It feels like a bigger bike (which is is, length-wise, slightly), and it is my favoritist bike so far.
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Jan 15, 2011 17:42
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Just when I thought I had cured it, my shifting problem is back! At seemingly random intervals (not tied to road speed, engine speed, or temperature) my 06 SV650 will not upshift at certain gears unless I preload the slack out of the shifter. It will work fine for several miles, then I will attempt to go from 2nd to 3rd: the shifter moves up what feels like a normal amount with what feels like a less distinctive click than usual, but when I release the clutch lever the gear hasn't changed. If I ride at constant throttle with the clutch lever released (clutch engaged) and the bike is in this condition, the lever has too much play. I can push the lever all the way up, release it, and the upward play will be taken-up. Now the lever shifts normally. The bike will clutchless shift just fine provided the lever has been preloaded in this way. The clutch has been adjusted per the service manual, and the oil has been changed. There is no visible play between the shifter linkage and the shift input shaft. As much as I don't want to say it, it seems like the problem exists inside the transmission. This bike only has 2500 miles, and it worked completely fine until I let it sit for 2 months while I was away. The problem started on the first ride after that wait, and has continued every ride since. I have gotten in the habit of preloading my shifts and it operates just fine, but I shouldn't have to do that. Anybody have any ideas that don't involve transmission teardown?
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Jan 17, 2011 03:59
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You need to adjust the clutch. Too much slack in the clutch lever will make it difficult to shift. It's either that or a bad clutch cable.
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Jan 17, 2011 04:30
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Like I said, I just adjusted the clutch. Lever slack is at the exact bottom limit in the service manual. No effect on the occasional false shifting. It's like the lever randomly has a large amount of play that won't let it shift, but no play is apparent on any external transmission component.
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Jan 17, 2011 04:40
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:Like I said, I just adjusted the clutch. Lever slack is at the exact bottom limit in the service manual. No effect on the occasional false shifting. It's like the lever randomly has a large amount of play that won't let it shift, but no play is apparent on any external transmission component. Sorry, I misread part of it, it sounded like the clutch was sticking. Have you checked that there aren't any problems with the cable and it snaps back cleanly? Otherwise it sounds like the shifter return spring is having issues or broken.
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Jan 17, 2011 05:35
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The clutch cable appears to be operating normally. So I'm assuming that the shifter return spring is an internal part, and the solution is to keep driving it until it breaks hard and I get to decide between rebuilding a transmission or swearing off my SV for failing at fewer miles than my much harder abused KTM. 
Ambihelical Hexnut fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Jan 17, 2011 |
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Jan 17, 2011 06:13
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You can get to the shift spring through the clutch side engine cover, after you remove the clutch basket, I believe. I'd have to check the microfiche though. It could also be a problem with the shift drum, but it sounds more like there's a problem with the return spring. Z3n fucked around with this message at 07:50 on Jan 17, 2011 |
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Jan 17, 2011 07:48
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It just occurred to me: You didn't just change boots or anything, right? Is your shifter adjusted correctly? Because what you describe can be explained by not shifting firmly enough as well. You don't need to stand on it or anything, but shift firmly and positively, or you'll end up with all sorts of problems.
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Jan 17, 2011 18:57
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No change to boot or shifter adjustment I'm afraid. Bike was setup and everything working perfectly, but I had to go out of town for work for about 2 months and when I came back this crap started (along with the rear brake having taken in enough air to stop working.) When this shifter thing occurs it's almost always on the 2-3 upshift, and it doesn't matter how much force I use. I have felt it in progress and applied as much force to the shifter as I am capable of while riding, and it goes no further but the gear hasn't changed until I release the shifter completely and re-upshift. Appreciate the help so far though!
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Jan 17, 2011 21:32
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