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I want to piggyback on the recent table saw discussion. I've got a brand new house (my first!) and lovely old bachelor apartment furniture. I'd like to start building some basic furniture for the house: a bed, bookshelves, possibly a TV stand, maybe a coffee table. Nothing too elaborate, and mostly simple geometry. At this point, the only power tools I have are a nice cordless drill & impact driver, plus a 10" compound miter saw. I have no practical woodworking experience, but I'm pretty handy with crude around-the-house stuff. Most of the furniture I want to build will require long straight rip cuts. (Specifically, I'm thinking about the bookshelf carcasses, the bed platform, etc). I'd love to get a table saw, but only have 110v and no dedicated space to work with. Those factors were pointing me towards the $500-ish portable table saws (like this), but from the discussion over the last few pages, it seems like they aren't that great. So what's my alternative? It seems like the perfect tool for my situation -- it can make long straight cuts, stores easily, and doesn't require a dedicated space. Are they really that bad? Would a decent circular saw, some kind of straight edge, and good clamps do the exact same thing for a third of the price? Or is there another option I'm not thinking of?
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Jan 7, 2011 22:13
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You won't be making long straight cuts with a tablesaw like that. A good straight guide and a handheld circular saw will do you well, in this case, as an entry-level investment and a good versatile tool. Alternately, if you still want to drop several hundred bucks, get yourself a tracksaw, cause those things are fuckin' awesome (it's basically the aforementioned guide with a handheld circular saw, but better.)
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Jan 7, 2011 22:25
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slartibartfast posted:
I think the best option is to go with http://www.festoolusa.com/products/plunge-cut-circular-saws/. I've been thinking all day about how much I don't need a lathe, and I'm going to buy one of these jokers as soon as I can instead of that shopsmith.
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Jan 7, 2011 22:26
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The tracksaw looks like a lot of fun, but I'm thinking a regular ol' circular saw and a guide like this may be better. It also saves me enough money that I could buy a router and a work table.
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Jan 7, 2011 23:19
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For entry-level stuff, that'd be my recommendation, to just get a handheld circ and a good guide, and then dropping the difference on other tools and materials and accessories (you can never have
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Jan 7, 2011 23:27
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I've got the laser hand saw and the guide, and I cannot stand using the guide. I freehand everything and do OK, but I'll do much better when the saw can't push itself off of the track. Mind you, I've been using a circular saw for ripping plywood for about 5 years, but I know my limitations and I'm ready to graduate to the track saw.
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Jan 7, 2011 23:52
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Being able to confidently freehand a straight line with a circular saw is invaluable.
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Jan 7, 2011 23:54
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iwannabebobdylan posted:How is everyone still feeling about their shopsmiths? I don't have a table saw or lathe, and I saw the first shopsmith on my craigslist in 6 months this morning. He's asking $1200 obo, I'm thinking more like $700. I'm quite likely a "full convert," in that I didn't even know what a SS was six months ago, but now i really enjoy using mine every day. I have the 4" jointer, and a separate JET benchtop planer (with a cute table that actually sits on the SS frame, instead of having its own base). I sort of want the bandsaw or scrollsaw, maybe someday, no rush. Hate to say it, but I bought mine for $250 here in Oregon. I needed to spend about $150 in parts to get it running, including soaking the 40 years of rust and crap off some parts. I'd recommend, if you have time, getting a 500 model ($200-400), then buying the 510 model table upgrade separately ($150-$300). I guess anyone thinking of getting one should consider that, as a multi-tool, it does some functions well and others not-so-much: Drill Press: Best I've owned. One of the best I've used. It has a very long throw and the table has lost of arrangement flexibility. The fact that it can run horizontally doesn't come up much, but when it does, I can't think of ANY other tool that can bore a hole in the top of a 4 ft. long board. Table Saw: Probably the worst feature. For me, it's just fine 90% of the time. If you need to rip down full-size plywood accurately and quickly, the SS is just not the tool for you, period. For my finer work in smaller pieces of hardwood, with my table aligned, and my zero-clearance insert in, this thing does just as well as anything out there. Disc sander: It is a variable speed 12" disc sander. Seems great but I don't really use it much. There's also an add-on that's a conical version of this -- haven't used it but it looks cool. Basically lets you sort-of-joint using sandpaper instead of blades (I guess). Drum Sander: perfectly serviceable variable speed drum sander. What elevates it's usefulness is that you have a full-sized table to work on, so bigger pieces can get a quick swipe with no problem. For both sanders, I keep fine-grit paper -- never used either for "stock removal" in any capacity. Jointer (add on): really quite adequate. It's 4", but anything bigger goes to my planer anyway, or gets roughed by the Stanley #7. Certainly not competitive with the big boys, but this thing can sit attached to your SS all the time, and is basically invisible when not in use. Lathe: I never use it, but folks like it or whatever I guess. Shaper: Pretty cool, actually. I keep thinking if I were to make a ton of molding, I'd use a shaper instead of a router. Not really a big deal, but I like this attachment and wish I had more real use for it. Router: Interesting. I actually really like the overarm routing this thing does, but I only use it with very light passes of very small bits. I'm sure it's not capable of "serious" routing (right??), but I've never even had balls to try. Maybe this weekend I'll try passing some hardwood through a larger bit, just to see... The MOTHERFUCKING MITRE SLOT: Is a different loving size than any other in the world. Slightly SMALLER, too, so you can't just buy normal crap. This is very easily solved in a number of ways, including simply buying a few T-nuts and bars from SS, but good god what the gently caress why is this even true? Dust collection: So-So overall, maybe middling, even. Just something to note. There's also some other nifty uses like tool sharpening, an "actual" planer attachment that's well-reviewed, beltsander, and various other crap. I personally love having all those tools in one place, for when I need them. I end up doing a lot of work with hand tools, so it's wonderful to be able to occasionally joint a small piece without owning an entire bike-sized unit. But again, this is clearly not for everyone, and in fact is probably very dangerous for certain kinds of work! Edit: Jesus gently caress wall of text post. Guess I need to find something to do.
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Jan 8, 2011 01:15
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Bad Munki posted:I generally go by what the companies selling them actually call them. I've never seen a jigsaw listed as a sabre in a store or catalog, whereas they list sawzall-style reciprocating saws as sabres all the time, right there on the boxes. v Sears used to sell saber saws that looked like jigsaws, in fact I owned one for many years, it was a piece of poo poo.
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Jan 8, 2011 01:40
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There's something about selling a bicycle and calling it a car in there, I'm sure of it...or maybe it's more of a parachute/airplane thing...
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Jan 8, 2011 01:45
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I made a picture frame today using a cheap as poo poo hand saw/miter box and a 1x2. I understand why people pay the $300 for the electric saw now. It's not perfect, but I'm pretty happy with the outcome for never having done anything like this. Before I painted it, without the glass:   After I painted and distressed it, got a piece of glass cut and properly mounted my cross stitch: 
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Jan 9, 2011 03:33
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porcupinecake posted:Hah, I love this. At least with the painted and distressed look machining accuracy isn't terribly important. I would hang the completed piece on my wall any day.
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Jan 9, 2011 04:05
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Still on the look out for a table saw, and I'm bored at work so I was perusing craigslist when I saw a Delta table saw for sale.quote:Delta Model 36-507X Contractor's Saw with a 52’ Uni-Fence. Setup includes machine with 1 1/2 HP, 115/230V motor; 10" cast-iron wing, stand, belt and pulley guard, miter gage, V-Belt, arbor, motor pulleys, 52" commercial grade Uni-Fence system complete with right side extension table and instruction manual. Extension table also functions as a router table through the use of a router lift insert (pictured, but not included). Seems like a good deal, but I was wondering if you guys had anything I should look for/check on, or just anything in the pictures that looks off?
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Jan 9, 2011 11:05
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VitaminZinc posted:Still on the look out for a table saw, and I'm bored at work so I was perusing craigslist when I saw a Delta table saw for sale. That's not a unifence, its a delta t2 fence. Not that its a bad thing, but use the incorrect information as an excuse to make a lower offer. Edit: If he doesn't have the guard, offer less. Basically use anything being missing or mis-listed as a reason to "logically" offer less. I'd jump on it for $350, I'd consider it at $500. I really really prefer table saws with a riving knife at the very least, but a contractor saw like this is still a huge improvement over a direct drive big-box retail purchased saw. Considering many of those direct drive plastic-based shittily-fenced saws cost north of $400, a belt-driven contractor saw for less than $550 is a bargain. Consider the fact that the fence on that saw was likely not stock, cost over $200 itself on amazon, and will absolutely destroy the fence on a jobsite saw in terms of accuracy, safety, rigidity, and usefulness. Just make sure you take the time to align the blade and the fence to the mitre slots when you get it, table saws have the nasty tendency to gank your rear end without much warning if they are set up improperly. I actually have one of the predecessors to this saw, a 1.5hp 9" Rockwell contractor's saw that I picked up for $65 to use for one project. Do yourself a favor and get some 8"-9" thin-kerf blades (one rip and one crosscut) rather than getting one 10" combo blade. The 1.5hp motor is much more comfortable spinning a smaller, thinner blade. It makes it harder to bog it down, plus the blades are considerably cheaper. These aren't 3+hp cabinet saws that will eat 1.5" lumber as fast as you can feed it and you wont likely need or want to run a 10" blade at the maximum height on a saw like this. P.S. Yes I own a table saw now, I still maintain that it isn't the best tool for beginners, and it definitely isn't the preferred tool if you are only going to have one or two power tools, but I had the room and it was cheap. And I will admit that it is very nice to be able to choose between the bandsaw, radial arm saw, and table saw when making a cut, so that I can use each tool for what it is best at rather than forcing one tool to do everything. I will upgrade to a saw with a riving knife as soon as I can afford to however. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Jan 9, 2011 |
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Jan 9, 2011 22:17
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Delta band saw on craigslist for $90 with no picture. I just sent an email titled "Delta band saw" asking what model it was. He sent back "Delta". Thanks. He sent back another email minutes ago saying it was just sold. I guess I will never know.
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Jan 9, 2011 22:49
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Absolut_V posted:Delta band saw on craigslist for $90 with no picture. I just sent an email titled "Delta band saw" asking what model it was. He sent back "Delta". Thanks. He sent back another email minutes ago saying it was just sold. I guess I will never know. If its any consolation, it was probably one of the lovely 10" shopmaster delta bandsaws that Lowes sold. I wouldn't wish one of those on anyone. In related news, did anyone else hear about this: http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/Stanley+Sells+Delta+Will+Move+To+SC.aspx I have a friend from design school that works at TTI in Anderson, SC, I will have to ask him how this is going to play out. For those of you unawares, TTI/TOTY owns Ryobi, Ridgid, Milwaukee, Homelite, Hoover and several other formerly american brands. The Acquisition of the Delta name gives them a known brand of stationary tools, something that they did not previously have. This also seems to explain why B&D/Stanley switched from selling Delta/Shopmaster braded tools in Lowes to selling PorterCable branded tools there instead. This Delta sale must have been in the works for some time. I'm more curious to find out if B&D/Stanley sold the Rockwell name with Delta, or Kept it. If they kept it then I can certainly see them using the Rockwell name to sell the same class of tools that they were selling under the Delta banner before.
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Jan 9, 2011 23:04
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GEMorris posted:If its any consolation, it was probably one of the lovely 10" shopmaster delta bandsaws that Lowes sold. I wouldn't wish one of those on anyone. I am assuming it was. My wife suggested that I not to even bother dealing with someone that would send such a response. She was right.
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Jan 9, 2011 23:39
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I've got a 90+ year old Graflex SLR that I want to do some cosmetic restoration on. I'm planning to remove the leather covering (in pretty lovely shape, camera was found in a corner of a basement in NYC and then tossed up on eBay) on the body and spruce up the underlying wood, which according to my research is Honduran mahogany. I found an example of another guy who's done the same on a similar model and it looks quite nice: I don't have much experience working with wood, but should have access to a decent assortment of tools and a workspace housesitting for my parents next month. From what I can see of the wood through the holes in the leather, it's of a much lighter color as-is. Is it a reasonable project to attempt for a beginner? Although the camera is old, it's not a priceless collector's item or anything (they were standard-issue for press photogs back in the day, and this one is missing the handle, original lens, and front flap), but I'd rather not completely ruin it if I can help it. Maybe buy a few pieces to practice on first? What would a restoration likely entail? Strip, sand, stain, clear-coat? porcupinecake posted:After I painted and distressed it, got a piece of glass cut and properly mounted my cross stitch: Ahaha, this owns.
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Jan 10, 2011 15:52
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Well, firstly, how hard is it to disassemble? And what I really mean is how hard is it to take the outside leather parts off? If you did, could you see yourself easily getting it back together?
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Jan 10, 2011 17:27
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Here's a question for you woodworkers, does anybody know what this thing does? I've asked in another thread before but it was suggested I ask here also. I'm writing labels for a small museum and no one there, nor others, can identify this woodworking tool. It's hinged with large metal staples (possibly made from repurposed files) stuck in what looks like a vise of some sort. There are holes for pins and/or hold-fasts, but I can't even think what its purpose would be. Anybody in this thread have an idea?
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Jan 10, 2011 17:55
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The Scientist posted:Well, firstly, how hard is it to disassemble? And what I really mean is how hard is it to take the outside leather parts off? If you did, could you see yourself easily getting it back together? They're known for being fairly easy to work on, although I may not mess with the internals if I don't have to since it's actually working pretty well. The leather is/was glued on and will just come off without much of a fight, it's already on its way out as it is.
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Jan 10, 2011 18:06
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Pompous Rhombus posted:I don't have much experience working with wood, but should have access to a decent assortment of tools and a workspace housesitting for my parents next month. From what I can see of the wood through the holes in the leather, it's of a much lighter color as-is. Is it a reasonable project to attempt for a beginner? Although the camera is old, it's not a priceless collector's item or anything (they were standard-issue for press photogs back in the day, and this one is missing the handle, original lens, and front flap), but I'd rather not completely ruin it if I can help it. Maybe buy a few pieces to practice on first? What would a restoration likely entail? Strip, sand, stain, clear-coat? All right, art conservation guy with experience in photography checking in. Of course, with training in conservation, I would be inclined to NOT strip the wood at all--generally the chemicals used are very unfavorable to the metal parts and other sensitive areas. I don't know what shape your camera is in, but there are things you can do to preserve the wood rather than going through the effort of disassembly and refinishing. Were that my camera, I would buy Renaissance Wax, a microcrystalline wax, to buff and fill the exposed pores of the wood. The wax, with a little buffing, gives the wood a nice shine and protects it from future damage.
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Jan 10, 2011 18:35
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Grave $avings posted:All right, art conservation guy with experience in photography checking in. Of course, with training in conservation, I would be inclined to NOT strip the wood at all--generally the chemicals used are very unfavorable to the metal parts and other sensitive areas. I don't know what shape your camera is in, but there are things you can do to preserve the wood rather than going through the effort of disassembly and refinishing. Were that my camera, I would buy Renaissance Wax, a microcrystalline wax, to buff and fill the exposed pores of the wood. The wax, with a little buffing, gives the wood a nice shine and protects it from future damage. Awesome, glad for the advice! I can pop the leather viewing hood off pretty easily, as well as the lens board and film holder. The metal parts (tensioner, mirror return, shutter winder) should also come off without much doing, IIRC they're all secured with basic wood screws on the outside, nothing fiendishly complicated. The only "maybe" I have is the shutter release, but from the pic I posted it looks like the panel that secures it is just hidden under the leather. I plan on leaving the back alone for now, since it will be covered by a film holder and I don't want to mess with the tolerances. I think I misused the word "strip" in this context, I figured there was some intermediate prep stage between getting the leather off and applying something to it to make it look nicer.
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Jan 10, 2011 19:09
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Can someone please give me some direction with regards to sniping on end grain template routing? I had 1/16" of material left on a piece of walnut with a template, even if I touched the piece to the bit, not even pushed it in to start cutting, it would catch the end grain and make a huge bang. loving pissed me off to no end. I have a pivot peg but that really doesn't change anything. I tried turning my router down to the lowest speed which helped a bit but still sniped every now and then.
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Jan 10, 2011 19:18
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Faster is actually better, be sure you aren't doing a climb cut. Let's see...You have it down to 1/16th which shouldn't be a problem. Oh yeah. Be sure you're confidently feeding the material. I've found that if I have a blowout or a piece somehow gets away it's more likely to happen again after that. Use a steady and firm feed. Edit: In other words, don't hesitantly and lightly start the feeding. Just be a man (a smart and confident man) and feed it in. Too light of pressure starts a chatter that's likely too fast for you to even interpret for what it is. Another Edit: You can also use a backer board for the end of the end grain cut to prevent blowout on that side. ChaoticSeven fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Jan 10, 2011 |
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Jan 10, 2011 19:38
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ChaoticSeven posted:Faster is actually better, be sure you aren't doing a climb cut. Let's see...You have it down to 1/16th which shouldn't be a problem. Oh yeah. Be sure you're confidently feeding the material. I've found that if I have a blowout or a piece somehow gets away it's more likely to happen again after that. Use a steady and firm feed. I'm not even getting to the point where I blowout. I'm definitely not climb cutting, here is a diagram of what my cut is(as I'm at work):  The only place I had blowout issues was at the edge on the right. The only thing I WAS doing was lightly pushing the piece into the bit (obviously by the 3rd explosion I was a bit timid about it).
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Jan 10, 2011 20:36
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I'm not sure what it could be then. I've done that exact same thing many times. Almost that same shape on Adirondack chair arms. Maybe a dull or off-brand bit? That's all I really have.
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Jan 10, 2011 22:28
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ChaoticSeven posted:I'm not sure what it could be then. I've done that exact same thing many times. Almost that same shape on Adirondack chair arms. Maybe a dull or off-brand bit? That's all I really have. It's a brand new Blue Tornado template bit, literally bought it the same day. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong.
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Jan 10, 2011 23:03
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MarshallX posted:I'm not even getting to the point where I blowout. I'm definitely not climb cutting, here is a diagram of what my cut is(as I'm at work): Based on my experience, I would climb cut about 1" of the right side first, then cut the rest with a regular cut. Definitely want a firm hand as someone suggested. If the grain of the wood is running lengthwise, then that part on the right is totally unsupported once you get to it with a regular cut and the forces applied make the wood want to split down the grain. You want to be pushing the cut forces inward, into the piece that you want to keep, rather than pushing them outward which is likely to lead to blowout. There is a wood whisperer episode about dealing with this sort of thing.
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Jan 11, 2011 01:21
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I'm not having blowout issues past the first pass (when I was learning). My issue is sniping where I have the bit in the picture which is causing the entire piece to knock out of the bit. I think I just need to be less timid and get the piece into the bit and cutting.
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Jan 11, 2011 14:38
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Whew! Finally done. Took me almost three days to get through the whole thread. I have to say, I've enjoyed this greatly, and really appreciate all the inspiration and great advice. I'm moving into my new house in about a month, and I have a huge 2-car garage and a loft -- and only one car. Heh heh heh. Finally going to get that woodshop I've always wanted. My family has always been in the wood business . My father owned a lumber company and was an architect here in Indiana, but he died when I was only six. Now that I am finally getting out of apartment living, I can live my ancient dream. I'm looking forward to sharing with y'all, and getting some more great advice and input. This thread is great.
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Jan 12, 2011 01:27
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MarshallX posted:I'm not even getting to the point where I blowout. I'm definitely not climb cutting, here is a diagram of what my cut is(as I'm at work): Would it be possible to do the top cut before cutting the arc away on the lower right? That would leave a lot more stock to strengthen the grain during the top cut, then when you cut the arc on the right, the bit would be pushing back towards the center of the piece. Another option (although somewhat tedious) would be to use a top bearing bit for half of the cut, then flip the piece over and install a bottom bearing bit for the other half of the cut.
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Jan 12, 2011 06:33
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With all this talk about saws, I was wondering if anyone could give me some input on what to buy. I'm debating whether to get a table saw or radial arm saw, and any input would be appreciated. I'm extremely limited on space, so I've been leaning towards the RAS, but I've heard that it's an antiquated and dangerous relic that's been usurped by the table saw. Is that an overreaction or legitimate concern? I'm also not too concerned about price; there's always tons of poo poo on craigslist where I live, so either way I go I ought to be able to snag a good deal. Mostly I'm just trying to figure out whether a RAS is a workable space solution or just a dumb idea.
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Jan 15, 2011 06:23
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OSU_Matthew posted:Mostly I'm just trying to figure out whether a RAS is a workable space solution or just a dumb idea. The RAS is workable and versatile, There are a few issues. 1. Get the right RAS. Old Dewalts and Delta/Rockwell machines are great, Craftsman/Montgomery Ward saws, not so much. The round and square arm Dewalts are my personal Fav, but the Delta/Rockewells are good as well. 2. Get the right blade. When crosscutting with a RAS, people fear the carriage (which includes the blade and motor) running at you if it binds on the wood. This can be eliminated by two things, the first is getting a blade with a neutral (0deg) or negative (-5deg) hook angle on the teeth (this is not a concern for ripping blades). CMT makes a nice one of these that Amazon sells. The second thing is: 3. Set it up right. A large ammount of "running" or "climbing" that a carriage does can be attributed to "heel" in the blade (this is when the arm is square to the fence, but the blade is not paralell to the arm). Radial arm saws have a few more adjustments that must be made for them to operate properly. There are many resources out there like the Dewalt Delphi group and owwm.com that can help walk you through all of the adjustment steps. Note: Table-saws have quite a few adjustments as well, and are often overlooked. If you've never adjusted the trunions on your TS for square, then they probably aren't. 4. Know what it's weaknesses are. With a RAS the glaring weakness is ripping thin or short pieces. Look up how to make a RAS push block that will keep your workpiece under control, and your fingers attached. I think a RAS and a Table Saw are equally dangerous. I think the woodworking manufacturers/press have done a good job of scaring people away from the RAS, while not doing enough to point out the weaknesses and danger of the table saw. If I was limited to one power tool, it would be the Radial Arm Saw, without a doubt. My preferred order of acquisition: 1. Radial Arm Saw 2. Jointer/Planer (combo if possible, planer if you can only have one) 3. Drill Press 4. Bandsaw 5. Table Saw EDIT: 2.5. Proper Hand Tool Woodworking Bench GEMorris fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Jan 15, 2011 |
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Jan 15, 2011 06:38
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Between a table saw and a miter saw, I can't see what a RAS brings to the table. I fully expect this is because I haven't been enlightened but it seems like a massive tool that the two aforementioned saws can replace. (Strictly speaking, a table saw can do whatever a miter saw does, but I'm not doing 15 feet 2x6" in a miter sled.) So what am I missing? (My experience is largely limited to construction and home improvements so I really don't know much about RASs)
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Jan 15, 2011 15:10
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Iskariot posted:Between a table saw and a miter saw, I can't see what a RAS brings to the table. I fully expect this is because I haven't been enlightened but it seems like a massive tool that the two aforementioned saws can replace. (Strictly speaking, a table saw can do whatever a miter saw does, but I'm not doing 15 feet 2x6" in a miter sled.) Well for starters it has, for the most part, the capabilities of both tools in one. Tablesaws are deceptive when it comes to size. They don't look that big, but they require more space to use than just about any other tool, its truly incredible how much space they take up when you think of workpiece-flow through a shop. In a space constrained area, consider that a table saw needs open space on all four sides, you cant place it up against a wall. You can place a RAS up against a wall and still take advantage of all of its capabilities. You yourself make the valid "Can Vs. Should" point. You CAN do just about everything on several different tools, but that doesn't mean you should. Crosscutting long items on a tablesaw, especially a small one, is a pretty dicey move. Ripping short pieces on a radial arm saw is equally dicey without the right jigs/fixtures. The primary difference is that the RAS's weaknesses can be overcome with fixtures, while crosscutting a 15 foot board on a table saw is always going to be a sketchy proposition. Small additional side benefit of a RAS: Swing the arm out of the way and you've got an instant assembly table / worksurface. Another Point: A good, older, heavy cast iron radial arm saw made by Dewalt or Delta that spins a 9-12" blade can be had for $100-$300. What quality/condition table saw do you get at that price point? An 8-10" older craftsman/delta/rockwell contractor saw with an older fence that you'll likely hate and then spend $200 to replace. The value proposition certainly favors the RAS in my opinion. Better deals can be had on either, I'm just citing what I see price "averages" as.
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Jan 15, 2011 20:59
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I see your point and I expected as much. Sadly RASes are not that common around these parts so It's hard to find one. Seen a few DeWalts though. May go for it if I find a great offer. Should I watch out for something? Manufacturing year, model number or anything like it I should stay clear of? How do you set up a RAS accurately? I mean there's nothing on the table to indicate width like say on the fence on many table saws. If you are going to rip, do you just measure the distance manually or what? What about miter angles, cutting depth, bevel angles? My only option for a table saw right now is getting a contractor saw as I don't have a dedicated workshop. I've gathered this is a poor option when you want accuracy and nice cuts so I have to look at options. Thinking of getting a Festool TS55 but that can only do parts of the job. I think I'll be able to make a portable sled/table for a RAS so I'm considering it. And thanks for the info, GEMorris.
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Jan 16, 2011 17:57
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Iskariot posted:I see your point and I expected as much. Sadly RASes are not that common around these parts so It's hard to find one. Seen a few DeWalts though. May go for it if I find a great offer. Should I watch out for something? Manufacturing year, model number or anything like it I should stay clear of? You's ideally want the GW series (GWI, GWH, GWM, GW-4), the 925 series (925E 925 STD 925H 925DLX), the 1030 series, or the 7790 series. Any DeWalt with the height adjustment moved forward on the arm, i.e. not on the top of the column/back of the arm, is not good. The MB series (MBF MBC etc) is a bit underpowered, but they are smaller so that could be a plus. Here is a good place to find pics and manuals for the different models: http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgIndex/detail.aspx?id=252&tab=4&sort=2&th=false&fl= The rip scale, i.e. how you set the width of the rip, is on the arm. To rip you rotate the carriage 90 degrees so that the blade is paralell to the fence. Bevels are done by rotating the blade/motor in the carriage yoke. Miters are done by rotating the arm on the column. The first place to look for guidance on how to set up a saw properly is the manual, which you can find on the site I linked above. The following guide is a great starting point for lightly refurbishing and setting up a radial arm saw, but lacks pictures. http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/dewaltrebuild.pdf The festool tracksaw option is best for the extremely space limited, I admit. But a ras can be backed against a wall, and a tablesaw can be put on a wheeled base and moved out to an open space when needed. Used examples of both are generally cheaper and more versatile options, so unless your primary goal is building with sheet materials or you must pack everything away into a closet when you aren't using it, I wouldn't go with the track saw. Every example I can find on youtube of ripping with a RAS is a cringe-inducing hazardfest so just stick with what the manual says.
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Jan 16, 2011 19:29
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The G0513P (and all the grizzly polar series stuff) went up in price with the new year. I tried to order on January 5th and they told me I'm SOL. A bit of a shame. I ended up going with the G0555x (I know I know) but ended up getting a decent deal since I could order it through amazon and blow a bunch of gift cards I had lying around. Got it unpacked, setup, and have been making test cuts with some scrap I've had around the shop. It's pretty amazing (makes me wonder how much nicer the 17" would have been - sigh). Any recommendations on good blades to have around to handle some general work? (Looking at you GEMorris) I know what I need for my next project, but I have to order blades (couldn't find a place in town that carries them) so I figure if I gotta order them, might as well try to get a variety for a variety of tasks.
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Jan 17, 2011 07:41
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cbubbles posted:Any recommendations on good blades to have around to handle some general work? (Looking at you GEMorris) I know what I need for my next project, but I have to order blades (couldn't find a place in town that carries them) so I figure if I gotta order them, might as well try to get a variety for a variety of tasks. I like the Viking blades that LeeValley carries. I'd get a 1/2" blade with 3-4tpi for resawing and straight cuts, and then a 1/4" blade with 5-6tpi for curved work. Can't say I have a ton of experience with other blades, I've just never felt the need to try anything else.
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Jan 17, 2011 09:02
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