|
I would look at the strength requirements and see if the cubicle walls have any mounting instructions. You may not necessarily need the most ultra-powerful fastener available, but it certainly wouldn't hurt. My cordless DeWalt hammer drill did fine for drilling holes in brick and concrete. Just make sure you have the right bit, and have plenty of spare batteries if you're doing a ton of work.
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2011 18:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 23:01 |
|
|
You can rent a big drill at home depot.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2011 18:58
|
|
|
Xoobee posted:Ha, good point. Well, I am speaking from bitter experience here...
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2011 19:07
|
|
Thx for that, sometimes I don't see the obvious...
|
I'm trying to figure out how I can get cable TV into my basement bedroom. I'm trying to run coax cable into a bank barn style basement room where soil comes up to 3' from inside floor. The exterior walls are stucco and brick. The only other cable-line coax cable run into the house is on the upstairs floor and across the house. There is a coax outlet on an adjoining wall, but it I can't tell where it comes out on the outside of the house(I believe it was connected to a satellite dish.) In my mind the process involves running coax in trench from cable drop, drilling through brick mortar joint from the inside(without hitting pipes/cables), dropping cable between studs to proper height and cutting drywall for box, and putting putty around hole in brick. Does this sound right? I have a rotary hammer for drilling the hole, I'm just a little apprehensive that my process is right. Do I need to seal the hole I would make in the vapor barrier? Any suggestions? dinozaur fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Jan 4, 2011 |
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2011 20:29
|
|
|
In the horrible concrete house I'm renovating I spent a weekend moving all the upstairs lights to sensible positions (i.e. not 2' from the corner of a 13' square room). Spending all that time in the attic I realised I need to fit a permanent light - can I 'spur' off the upstairs lighting ring or do I need to put this new light into the current lighting ring?
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2011 21:16
|
|
|
wormil posted:Do I have any better options for securing the walls?
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2011 23:42
|
|
|
dinozaur posted:I'm trying to figure out how I can get cable TV into my basement bedroom. I'm trying to run coax cable into a bank barn style basement room where soil comes up to 3' from inside floor. The exterior walls are stucco and brick. The only other cable-line coax cable run into the house is on the upstairs floor and across the house. There is a coax outlet on an adjoining wall, but it I can't tell where it comes out on the outside of the house(I believe it was connected to a satellite dish.) DIYers do a much better job, IMHO.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2011 00:00
|
|
|
grover posted:Construction adhesive. Well I actually went with Tapcon screws and bought the $58 Milwaukee corded hammer drill instead of cordless. I secured it to the wall with expansion screws. So here is my new problem and I should have anticipated it... only two sides of the cubicle wall are anchored so the top outside corner waggles.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2011 05:43
|
|
|
wormil posted:Well I actually went with Tapcon screws and bought the $58 Milwaukee corded hammer drill instead of cordless. I secured it to the wall with expansion screws. So here is my new problem and I should have anticipated it... only two sides of the cubicle wall are anchored so the top outside corner waggles.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2011 11:54
|
|
|
Edit: Nevermind, I think this is solved and I don't want anyone to waste their time trying to answer me now. :]
skoolmunkee fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Jan 8, 2011 |
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2011 16:11
|
|
|
grover posted:Welcome to cube life! Higher quality walls are stiffer, as are ones with desks attached, but it's basically just physics of a thin unsupported beam. If you just want it as a divider, it's going to be a bit wobbly no matter what you do. Oh no, thankfully I will not be working in a cubicle. My desk is in a big open room full of Canon printers. Our employees are not rambunctious so the cube walls should be fine. Next, he wants me to build desks. I proposed using preformed countertops but he hopes I can find a more elegant solution. So fellow goons... what is a step up from preformed countertops but still inexpensive?
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2011 08:04
|
|
|
I have a ton of copper wire around 10 gauge to strip for copper scrap. Anyone know of a good way to strip it. Right now I have been using a razor to fillet the jacket off of the wire.
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2011 18:12
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I have a ton of copper wire around 10 gauge to strip for copper scrap. Anyone know of a good way to strip it. Right now I have been using a razor to fillet the jacket off of the wire. I was just talking to a scrap buyer and she said that the difference in your return between stripped and jacketed cable is so close to the same that its not worthwhile to strip it. Your area might be different, so call up your scrap yard to see the price difference between intact, stripped, and burnt off insulation. With scrap prices how they are right now, its looking like a great time to cash out my 80lbs of copper, 200lbs high grade aluminum, 50lbs circuit boards, and various other stuff. PARTY TIME! dinozaur fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Jan 6, 2011 |
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2011 22:55
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I have a ton of copper wire around 10 gauge to strip for copper scrap. Anyone know of a good way to strip it. Right now I have been using a razor to fillet the jacket off of the wire. I made something for my father-in-law that strips wire easily. Basically, it was a block of wood, with holes drilled that matched the diameter of common insulated wire gauges, with a saw kerf through each hole that held a razor blade. Here's a basic drawing:  Click here to view the full image What you do is pick the right size hole, put a razor blade in just deep enough to slice through the insulation, and clamp it in place. Then, clamp the whole block to a sturdy table or something that won't move. Feed the wire through a few inches by hand, when you have a foot or so through the block, peel away the insulation. Then, just keep pulling and separating. I envisioned a fancier device with a metal block that won't wear out over time, and a crank and two spools, one for the wire and the other for the insulation, but haven't gotten around to building it yet. Maybe with copper prices as high as they are I'll take another look at this. Oh yeah, if you decide to build something like this, make sure that you only put the very corner of the razor in the slot. The less contact between razor and insulation, the easier it is to push/pull through the holes.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2011 05:52
|
|
|
Mthrboard posted:I made something for my father-in-law that strips wire easily. Basically, it was a block of wood, with holes drilled that matched the diameter of common insulated wire gauges, with a saw kerf through each hole that held a razor blade. Here's a basic drawing: I am going to have a friend make me a V shaped piece of metal. That has a place to hold a razor. With a top plate I will push the razor into the center of the wire. Then I will just pull the wire through and it will be split.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2011 15:45
|
|
|
I just recently rented a room in a shared flat that is absolutely loving freezing (Edit: To clarify, the room is freezing, not the entire flat. I can feel the change when I step into or out of my room - it's like a walk-in fridge). My landlord/landlady blamed the massive bay window for the cold, so I went and got some storm windows. This changed nothing. On closer inspection, the wall itself is cold to the touch. The bay window has different fascia than the rest of the building, and if I had to guess I'd say it's not very well-insulated. Local laws state that the landlord must keep the premises at least 21 degrees celsius in the winter, and it's about 17 at the worst of times, so they need to fix this. Not being a complete rear end in a top hat, I want to give them some decent options that won't cost a huge bundle. I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that re-insulating the exterior wall is going to be a huge costly project. I've been looking at an oil-filled radiator, and forced air wall heaters, but I have no idea if these are suitable or safe for a bedroom. Any advice on how not to freeze my feet off and not burn the house down? Vergeh fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Jan 8, 2011 |
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2011 01:11
|
|
|
Vergeh posted:I just recently rented a room in a shared flat that is absolutely loving freezing (Edit: To clarify, the room is freezing, not the entire flat. I can feel the change when I step into or out of my room - it's like a walk-in fridge). My landlord/landlady blamed the massive bay window for the cold, so I went and got some storm windows. This changed nothing. On closer inspection, the wall itself is cold to the touch. The bay window has different fascia than the rest of the building, and if I had to guess I'd say it's not very well-insulated. Should definitely keep at it with the landlady though, make her live up to her responsibilities. If needed, escalate it to a complaint with the city
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2011 04:38
|
|
|
I'm trying to hang up a baseball display case on my wall, but I'm not familiar with using these kinds of nail brackets or whatever they're called. The last time I tried to install one of these kinds of brackets in my bathroom it didn't work out so well. I have posted pictures below of both the brackets as well as the hangers on the back of the case, in hopes that someone can let me know the best way to get these nails properly secured into the wall. I really don't want to chance this case falling off my wall, since it will contain some valuable baseballs, and the case itself is pretty expensive. Should I use a drill for these? Or is a screwdriver and some elbow grease enough? Thanks in advance. Nails and their brackets/mounts:  Back of the case:  (there is one of these on two different sides of the case)
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2011 05:28
|
|
|
Those need to have a hole drilled that's just a hair smaller than the plastic anchors (not counting the "wings"). Then you hammer in the plastic anchor until it's flush to the drywall, and screw in the screw. If the case is pretty heavy you might want molly bolts instead. Whatever you use, make sure the screw head will be retained solidly in the bracket on the back of the case.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2011 06:05
|
|
|
slap me silly posted:Those need to have a hole drilled that's just a hair smaller than the plastic anchors (not counting the "wings"). Then you hammer in the plastic anchor until it's flush to the drywall, and screw in the screw. If the case is pretty heavy you might want molly bolts instead. Whatever you use, make sure the screw head will be retained solidly in the bracket on the back of the case.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2011 06:19
|
|
|
They're referred to as anchors The more secure type are metal and look like this  Just need to make sure you get the right one for your application, there are different sizes for different thickness walls (drywall, plaster lath, etc)
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2011 08:00
|
|
|
Well those anchors I got came with the case itself, my apartment is mostly drywall to my knowledge.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2011 08:23
|
|
|
^^^^ there are dozens of different kinds of anchors, depending on what you're anchoring into. By the way, if you happen to hit a stud while drilling your holes, then you don't need an anchor in that hole. Drywall is (usually) 1/2" thick. Studs are (usually) spaced 16" apart with pockets in between, so you have a better chance of not finding one with a drill bit. Still, you can tell you hit a stud if while drilling you don't punch through to empty space; or if you feel the drill hit something that feels different than drywall, you pull the bit out of the hole and there's wood in the end. You can screw the screw directly into the stud without using an anchor. If the screw is too long then you'll have to drill a smaller pilot hole for that screw, otherwise you'll either strip the screw or wear yourself out trying to insert it. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Jan 8, 2011 |
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2011 17:56
|
|
|
I installed it earlier, seems to be holding up well. I used the anchors provided, as I found that in the two holes I drilled I only hit drywall.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2011 22:27
|
|
|
I'm back with another antique tool question! The thing in question is this: Nobody had any idea what it does. The drat thing's been in storage so long (70+ years) the label rotted off. It looks like some sort of vise/trimming horse, and it has adjustable stop holes and an old file or two for vise grips. It looks like it was built for some specific purpose--which purpose, no one at the museum can say. Anybody have an idea?
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2011 22:49
|
|
|
It's a turned handle, so it can't be TOO old. My guess is you probably put it at the outlet of an automatic pasta maker so you could trim your pasta into certain lengths.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2011 22:55
|
|
|
ease posted:It's a turned handle, so it can't be TOO old. My guess is you probably put it at the outlet of an automatic pasta maker so you could trim your pasta into certain lengths. Supposedly (i.e. where it was located) it's a woodworking tool. One "expert" thought it was a shaving horse but I'm fairly certain it isn't that.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2011 23:12
|
|
|
The hot water from the taps at my place has a bit of a brown tint to it - both sinks, shower. The cold is fine. I guess this is probably a problem within the hot water tank? Any ideas? I've contacted the landlord, but in the meantime is this stuff safe to wash dishes with? shower? Should I still be drinking the cold?
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2011 00:53
|
|
|
I posted this in AI but I thought I'd ask here as well: I need to repair this:  It's the power connections for my rear wiper motor & heated screen (wiper is mounted to the separately hinged glass) Can I just use some conductive silver paint to make the connections & some silicone sealant to glue it back in place or can I solder wires directly to the tracks?
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2011 17:03
|
|
|
Not familiar with that setup, but it looks like the pads were connected with some sort of conductive adhesive? You'd want to replicate that as close as possible. Your first suggestion seems reasonable. You don't want to solder wire to those pads, it won't hold up to vibration well at all.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2011 19:13
|
|
|
Yeah, I'd just use some conductive epoxy, it aught to do just fine as a permanent repair.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2011 19:37
|
|
|
Grave $avings posted:Supposedly (i.e. where it was located) it's a woodworking tool. One "expert" thought it was a shaving horse but I'm fairly certain it isn't that. It seems like you close the handle down on something and then put a pin through one of the holes on the right to clamp it down.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2011 19:46
|
|
|
grover posted:Yeah, I'd just use some conductive epoxy, it aught to do just fine as a permanent repair. I prefer this idea but I'm really struggling to find a non-industrial-scale electrically conductive epoxy in the UK. Anyone got any suggestions?
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2011 21:32
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:I prefer this idea but I'm really struggling to find a non-industrial-scale electrically conductive epoxy in the UK. Anyone got any suggestions?
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2011 21:39
|
|
|
Can you get any sort of conductive paste? If so, you could get everything aligned really well and epoxy fillet around the whole thing once you've got it fixed in place.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2011 21:41
|
|
|
Found something at RS, £27 but the official fix is £300 parts £300 labour so...
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2011 23:00
|
|
|
I sanded and revarnished an old table but after a few days of drying, some of the varnish didn't completely dry out and there are still some slightly tacky patches on the surface. Any suggestions on what's the best way to fix or remove these patches? Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2011 05:34
|
|
|
Newf posted:The hot water from the taps at my place has a bit of a brown tint to it - both sinks, shower. The cold is fine. I guess this is probably a problem within the hot water tank? Any ideas? Ya its safe to use the water still. Most likely its rust.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2011 07:13
|
|
|
Grave $avings posted:Supposedly (i.e. where it was located) it's a woodworking tool. One "expert" thought it was a shaving horse but I'm fairly certain it isn't that. Try asking in the Woodworking Megathread, someone there might know.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2011 17:40
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 23:01 |
|
|
stubblyhead posted:Try asking in the Woodworking Megathread, someone there might know. Y'know that would make sense, thanks!
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2011 17:51
|
|