|
Just a trip report on getting an educational license of CS5 Extended: I found out I should be eligible for it as university staff, so I called up Adobe to make sure. The lady I talked to said as long as I had a pay stub from the university I'd be good to go (while trying to give me the hard sell on buying it right then and there over the phone), so I went down to the campus computer store and bought it for $190. According to the girl at the counter, if it turned out I wasn't eligible I'd be able to get a refund, but it would have to be through Adobe themselves. Went home, put it on my Macbook, and was prompted to enter the coupon code at adobe.studentlicensing.com. Did that, selected my university from a drop-down menu, and got a serial number immediately. Was a bit surprised about this, because I had scans of my driver's license and pay stub ready to go, but was never asked for them, either by Adobe or the store. I thought it would be a pain in the rear end having to call Adobe, e-mail the stuff as attachments, then wait for someone to approve it, or maybe even call my employer to verify my status as an employee. As it turns out, it's not a huge hassle at all, and if you work at a university (even as like a janitor or something) you're almost definitely eligible for cheap Adobe products. Between that and the Dell IPS panel I picked up with Christmas money, I'm looking forward to finally advancing beyond the slapadash "dink around with sliders on a laptop LCD, clone stamp as necessary" stage of post-processing this year, something I've been neglecting for far too long (a shameful photographer). Where should I start? Pompous Rhombus fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Jan 9, 2011 |
#
?
Jan 9, 2011 18:41
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 05:23 |
|
|
Pompous Rhombus posted:Where should I start? Layers and layer masks. Open your photo with camera raw, and then start messing with layers, layer masks, and adjustment layers. It's really simple total control over the entire photo.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2011 18:45
|
|
|
Thanks for the replies, guys. I understand the issues now but it seems like theres always going to be a difference between the jpeg preview and the actual RAW that LR displays, I need to have a look at my camera settings.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2011 21:49
|
|
|
I have a Lightroom question. Is there any way to add borders to your photos in Lightroom. I noticed it does add white borders around the photo in the slideshow mode. I couldnt figure out a way to add that on a per photo basis though.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2011 08:00
|
|
|
You're looking for LightRoom Mogrify, it has a shitload of options - borders included. It can be a bit tricky to set up, but once you've got it working, it does the job really well: http://www.photographers-toolbox.com/products/lrmogrify.php
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2011 12:39
|
|
|
AIIAZNSK8ER posted:Layers and layer masks. Open your photo with camera raw, and then start messing with layers, layer masks, and adjustment layers. It's really simple total control over the entire photo. Yeah, that's definitely one of the things I need to learn. Any suggestions on resources? I've been thinking about a PS class at my local CC or trying to find one offered online (would be a lot more convenient), although a book or series of online tutorials would be even better.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2011 16:14
|
|
|
Pompous Rhombus posted:Yeah, that's definitely one of the things I need to learn. Any suggestions on resources? I've been thinking about a PS class at my local CC or trying to find one offered online (would be a lot more convenient), although a book or series of online tutorials would be even better. A class to get you started might not be a bad idea, really it's just doing a lot of step by step exercises until you understand the mechanics of what's going on. The built in Adobe basic tutorials cover most of what you need to get started. Learn keystrokes as early as you can to make things move quicker. Try out whatever tutorials you can find online no matter how dumb they look. I learned what little I know just from experimenting with it for the past 10 years, poo poo has it been that long... Also, it's OK to add lens flares to everything for the first week (because I know you want to).
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2011 17:35
|
|
|
http://www.amazon.com/Photoshop-CS5-Windows-Macintosh-QuickStart/dp/0321701534 I would suggest that. Pick a tool you want and it offers a straight forward explanation of how to use it and what it does. No tutorials for neon text or other fruitiness. AIIAZNSK8ER posted:I learned what little I know just from experimenting with it for the past 10 years, poo poo has it been that long Heh I started playing with it for P-shop Phridays many moons ago.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2011 22:23
|
|
|
I have never been in or taken a Photoshop class that was worth the price of admission. I don't think it lends itself well to a class environment, plus anyone who would make a good PS teacher would rather be making a lot more money as a retoucher or digital tech. None of the basic concepts they teach in classes are hard to learn on your own (layers, masks, adjustment layers, curves, etc. and I doubt they will go beyond that or into much detail). There are a million ways to do anything in PS and really the only way to learn is to just try different things on actual problems you have. Maybe try Lynda videos, or just the PS documentation for each of the tools. There are a couple of books that are good (I like the Katrin Eismann Compositing and Restoration books, also LAB Color by Dan Margulis). A good thing to do is to try different approaches to the same image, ie. color correct something using Color Balance, Curves, LAB color, and Levels to see the benefits and drawbacks of each tool. I would learn, in this order: -THE SHORTCUT KEYS! -layers -masks -adjustment layers - what each does -CURVES - very versatile, very important -blending modes -channels and their many uses -all of the above and how they can be used for color correcting or unifying palettes -different ways of making selections (pen tool, channels, magic wand, quick mask, etc.) then move on to actual pixel manipulation -strategies for non-destructive editing -patch / spot -clone -mask making for compositing -Liquify -content aware scale / fill -methods of dodging/burning brad industry fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Jan 10, 2011 |
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2011 23:32
|
|
|
psylent posted:You're looking for LightRoom Mogrify, it has a shitload of options - borders included. It can be a bit tricky to set up, but once you've got it working, it does the job really well: Is there a version that works with LR3 yet?
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2011 00:26
|
|
|
Cyberbob posted:Is there a version that works with LR3 yet? Q: Does LR/Mogrify 2work with Lightroom 3? A: Yes.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2011 03:01
|
|
|
keyframe posted:Q: Does LR/Mogrify 2work with Lightroom 3? _b It didn't when LR3 first came out. yay.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2011 03:04
|
|
|
Pompous Rhombus posted:Where should I start? http://www.collegehumor.com/video:1944668
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2011 05:00
|
|
|
brad industry posted:-THE SHORTCUT KEYS! This is one of the most important things, and something I see even seasoned "pros" miss all the time. Nothing like seeing a talented individual come to a crawl clicking through the tool palette. I learned [ and ] (brush size smaller/bigger) a few months ago and that alone shaved so much time off my photoshopping. Opening the brush size dialog is surprisingly painful.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2011 20:32
|
|
|
My friend was talking about a NYC ad photographer he works for who's style is very post-production heavy... who uses the menus for everything in PS. We were joking that being a digital technician is 90% knowing shortcut keys and 10% plugging in cables. Even just knowing 0-9 [, ], x, and d makes you twice as fast at doing almost everything. brad industry fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Jan 11, 2011 |
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2011 20:57
|
|
|
Martytoof posted:This is one of the most important things, and something I see even seasoned "pros" miss all the time. Nothing like seeing a talented individual come to a crawl clicking through the tool palette.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2011 22:15
|
|
|
The problem with Adobe software is they normally don't display the hotkeys anywhere in the main interface window. You have to hover over a gadget with the mouse for several seconds for the program to reveal it. If the information isn't readily available, people ain't gonna learn it. Some of it does show up in menus, but that still requires hunting around for it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2011 22:43
|
|
|
Shortcut key cheat sheet. Yum. http://www.smashingmagazine.com/2010/02/10/photoshop-keyboard-shortcuts-cheat-sheet-pdf/
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2011 22:48
|
|
|
xzzy posted:The problem with Adobe software is they normally don't display the hotkeys anywhere in the main interface window. You have to hover over a gadget with the mouse for several seconds for the program to reveal it. I do love me some hotkeys, but Photoshop really does not do a good job in pointing them out to the user. There should be a welcome screen covering the essentials just like in Lightroom. Also: Ctrl + Alt + Shift + E. Good thing there are only three modifier keys or Adobe would have added more into the mix.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2011 23:27
|
|
|
When viewing a photo in a LR3 catalog, is there a way to see if it has been exported by any of the publish services? Is there a way of publishing all "New photos to publish" at once? (I.e multiple services) Is there a way to get the facebook publish service to show all albums at once like the smugmug service does? From what I can tell, the answer to all 3 is no  My export workflow nowadays consists of putting the same photo in the same-named publishing services locally, on smugmug and on facebook. It's a hell of a lot easier than LR2, but it can be difficult to keep track of stuff after a while.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2011 23:30
|
|
|
Martytoof posted:
My big leap in photoshop speed was holding alt, right clicking and moving the mouse left and right to resize the brush.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2011 23:59
|
|
|
I shot about 1100 photos today with someone else's camera. It turns out the timestamp on all of them is off by about 23 hours. Is there a way to fix this in Lightroom? Is there a way to adjust all of the timestamps forward by 23 hours for 1,100 photos at once?
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2011 06:52
|
|
|
Yes and yes. In library mode select all of your photos. Go to Metadata on the right hand panel, go to capture time. Click the little button and you'll get this screen:
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2011 08:54
|
|
|
brad industry posted:My friend was talking about a NYC ad photographer he works for who's style is very post-production heavy... who uses the menus for everything in PS. We were joking that being a digital technician is 90% knowing shortcut keys and 10% plugging in cables. My favorite is holding space, right clicking and releasing space. for the "fit on screen, actual pixels, or print size" menu. Being able to slam from 100% to viewing all at any time is quite nice. I hate that they removed R as the blur shortcut though. I reassigned it, but it still sucks not being able to toggle using the shift+R like you used to be able to, though I use smudge a lot less than I did.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2011 11:07
|
|
|
psylent posted:Yes and yes. Thank you. I hate to turn this into a troubleshooting thread, but I'm not sure where else to ask: I was using Lightroom this morning (well, it was minimized while I was using Firefox,) when my computer froze up on me. Now, when I try to launch Lightroom, it tells me my catalog "cannot be opened because another application already has it opened," telling me to "Quit the other copy of Lightroom before trying to launch." As far as I can tell, this is entirely untrue. What could be causing this?
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2011 21:12
|
|
|
TequilaJesus posted:Thank you. Did you try to terminate the process in the Task Manager?
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2011 22:57
|
|
|
LuisX posted:Did you try to terminate the process in the Task Manager? Assuming the process would be named something remotely recognizable, it's not listed in the task manager.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2011 23:02
|
|
|
Did you try the tried and true method of rebooting?
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2011 23:24
|
|
|
RangerScum posted:Did you try the tried and true method of rebooting? A few times. (Sorry, should've mentioned that up front.) If I uninstall and reinstall the program, will that erase my data?
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2011 23:32
|
|
|
How about deleting the lockfile? http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=741777
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2011 00:29
|
|
|
LuisX posted:How about deleting the lockfile? Yes! Thank you so very much, kind goon!
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2011 07:55
|
|
|
This is probably a long shot, but is there a way to make a map of the contrast in an image? Such that you would get a gray scale image where the higher contrast areas are brighter. I had a look but I haven't found anything yet.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2011 02:23
|
|
|
High Pass?
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2011 02:31
|
|
|
Kinda, it would be more like the sum of a bunch of highpasses at different values, I think.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2011 02:41
|
|
|
What do you need it for? The first thing that popped into my head was a high pass (much like the people above thought). Technically it isn't a contrast map but it acts in a similar manner. Another way to go about it is to duplicate everything twice, apply a low/medium gaussian blur to the first dup layer and set the top layer as a difference. The bright spots will be your high contrast and the dark you low contrast.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2011 02:45
|
|
|
That's getting closer. What I want to do is mask off the high contrast areas and desaturate the low contrast areas a little. I'll need to touch up the mask by hand, but I was hoping this would get me close to a mask of in-focus vs. out-of-focus. I'm just playing around really. I had the idea that I could use a contrast detect focus style algorithm to tell how in focus each part of the image was and get a map from that. I'm not sure it will work out that way though.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2011 03:17
|
|
|
In other news, guess who seems to have lost his Bamboo stylus for the second time?  Thinking about an Intuos 3 instead of another Bamboo, I've used the Intuos at work and the stylus is a lot more comfy. Is that kind of the sweet spot between cost/value when it comes to tablets that aren't a Bamboo?
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2011 03:18
|
|
|
TomR posted:That's getting closer. What I want to do is mask off the high contrast areas and desaturate the low contrast areas a little. I'll need to touch up the mask by hand, but I was hoping this would get me close to a mask of in-focus vs. out-of-focus. I'm just playing around really.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2011 03:36
|
|
|
I got it to work. I did a highpass at 1px and then used brightness and contrast adjustments on it with legacy mode to get it more black and white. Then I set that as the layer mask of a copy that was desaturated over the normal photo. Messing with blur and more contrast/brightness I ended up with a mask that did what I wanted. I could clean up the mask now but I decided it looks crappy anyway. I was hoping I could get a kind of foggy forest effect if I desaturated the stuff farther away (thus more out of focus and lower contrast) but it just looked like selective colour. Oh well.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2011 03:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 05:23 |
|
|
TomR posted:This is probably a long shot, but is there a way to make a map of the contrast in an image? Such that you would get a gray scale image where the higher contrast areas are brighter. I had a look but I haven't found anything yet. Filter> Stylize> Find Edges  What are you going for or trying to do?
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2011 03:43
|
|