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Autism Sundae posted:my199gsr - owner at my local shop noticed some oil dripping from the turbo cutoff valve area when they were rotating my tires, he said there's a small seepage from the cutoff seal and told me to take it to the dealer. Absolutely - it's very common on all of our turbo models and it's nothing to worry about.
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Jan 6, 2011 21:53
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Thanks, I feel stupid as hell  It was pretty much just a few drops of oil starting to collect below the cutoff valve. The shop owner said he replaced a few of those leaking valves on MKV GTIs, so I guess that's why he told me to get it checked out.
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Jan 7, 2011 01:59
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primitive posted:my1999gsr -- Here's the official word from my VW tech service manual: "Only use oils meeting VW oil quality standard: VW502 00. Use oil viscosity 5W40 or, if not available, 5W30 or 0W40." There have been some customer complaints about the availability of the 5W-40 oil but we have no trouble getting it in bulk from our Castrol reps - maybe it's harder to get in your area so your dealer switched to 5W-30. Judging from my service circulars, both oils are ok and will not void your warranty so it shouldn't be an issue.
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Jan 7, 2011 02:03
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my1999gsr posted:Absolutely - it's very common on all of our turbo models and it's nothing to worry about. Does it get worse with time though, or is it designed to work that way?
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Jan 7, 2011 04:45
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Thanks primitive and my199gsr for your answers. It's not my ideal car by any means, but seemed worth checking out. Now if I could just get the lady to call me back, especially since I think my subaru just blew a head gasket.
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Jan 7, 2011 19:53
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Autism Sundae posted:Does it get worse with time though, or is it designed to work that way? Supposed to work that way? Doubtful but as long as it's not causing any issues I don't see VW doing anything about it. It might get a little worse over time but I've never seen one that was any more than a small seepage.
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Jan 7, 2011 23:43
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Today I picked up a 01 Jetta GLX vr6 for $2500  and the one issue it has is the driver door sensor is faulty and it will beep a lot while driving and when driving at night its a extremely annoying long sustained beep. The worst part about this is the fact that if I don't pull the negative battery terminal the alarm can just go off as it thinks the door has been opened. I also don't know of any way to keep the alarm from arming as the car arms itself after a few minutes of no key being in the ignition. I could really use some advice on a fix for this issue, at least temporarily as I can't get it fixed for a week or so. I would really like to fix it myself but from what I have heard it is a pain in the rear end to get to. Anyone know of a way to bypass it, a fuse that doesnt effect any other systems, anything? at this point any advice on this issue would be amazing.
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Jan 9, 2011 02:37
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Throwdown posted:Today I picked up a 01 Jetta GLX vr6 for $2500 Well, there's two possibilities. One, your door latch is bad (the sensor is part of the latch) in which case you'll have to replace it, or two, you've got some broken wires in the door hinge. For the DIYer, broken wires are the easier repair - just pull the boot back and repair the broken wires. Removing the door latch isn't really hard either - if you have basic hand tools (and the correct sized triple-square bit for the exterior latch bolts) it can be done pretty easily. If you'd like some step by step directions I can post them. There's not really any temporary fixes - you could unplug the door harness but then you'd have no power windows and no mirror adjustment. The locks are part of the comfort control module so even if you disconnect that module you'll still have all kinds of power options problems.
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Jan 9, 2011 06:28
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You'll never guess what I discovered today! Wiper blades for a 2006 A4 are expensive!  Autozone told me $88 for a set. I bought some off eBay for $48. 
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Jan 9, 2011 19:39
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VW Electrics   photo.JPG by minivanmegafun, on Flickr (2008 Rabbit, stickshift) Had the hazards on for about 20 minutes in a loading zone, came back to this. The turn signals and hazards still WORK fine, but the indicators in the cluster are stuck illuminated. The audible click doesn't sound, either. Any ideas? I'm probably going to try yanking the battery connection for a few minutes and see if that resets it. e: Went downstairs with tools, and it had fixed itself. Okay then. Some wrecker was nice enough to shove his business card in my window in the 30 minutes I was in my apartment, though. Thanks guy. minivanmegafun fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Jan 9, 2011 |
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Jan 9, 2011 21:08
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minivanmegafun posted:VW Electrics That's a new one for me - I've never seen that problem before. It could be an overheat problem or a mechanical issue in the 4-way switch.
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Jan 9, 2011 23:51
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Hey my 1999gsr, I posted about the rattle that I had somewhere in the overhead console thing that has bluetooth, lights, and other stuff. You told me how to take it down, I put some tape around the wires, rattle didn't really go away. Well, I wasn't paying attention to it for a while but I was looking at the sunroof area recently and noticed that the headliner in the area right above that center overhead console (area between where the sunroof starts and the headliner) is pretty clearly not attached properly. My guess is that it's attached via clips like most other things on the car, and that particular clip isn't attached properly and causing it to bang around and rattle (rattle from that area gets way worse when shade is pulled back or when sunroof is open). Do you know if that could be the cause? Also I'm guessing that's not something I can easily fix on my own... whoever assembled this car needs to have his hands broken.
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Jan 10, 2011 10:28
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my1999gsr posted:That's a new one for me - I've never seen that problem before. It could be an overheat problem or a mechanical issue in the 4-way switch. Yeah, that was the strangest part - the 4-way appeared to be working fine. I could signal fine (and glance through the window to confirm it was working), but the click relay (obviously not used for signaling) and the cluster were messed up. The hazards were still working fine if viewed from the outside, too; and the button itself was still blinking.
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Jan 10, 2011 15:45
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I have a 2001 vw jetta with 165K that has a couple of troubling problems. First, I've been running through about 2 quarts of oil between every oil change. Next, I've had to top off the coolant every couple of months or so. And finally and most troubling, I've been noticing some light colored sludge on the oil cap when I go to add oil. Yellowish crap. Some friends say that's the unmistakable signs of a head gasket about to fail, but I don't want to go to a guy and say that without knowing. Also, I was planning on getting my timing belt changed soon anyway, should I be able to save money by having those both replaced at once? (I really wish there was a car repair subforum here...)
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Jan 10, 2011 16:30
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DrCold posted:I had a similar experience with my 2005 A4 1.8T. It was the DV and I replaced it with one of those fancy APR ones (http://shop.achtuning.com/apr-dv-100001-motorsport-r1-diverter-valve.aspx). I also had the APR programing so that was definately the cause of it. I just had my 04.5 GLI chipped with APR about 4 months ago, how long did your stock diverter last after you did the chip? Just wondering how long before I need to pick up a new one. To the guy looking for wipers, why not just pick up some of the Rain-x wipers. I just put the bendy ones on my car for 20 bucks each from Wal-Mart and they work great. veedubfreak fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Jan 10, 2011 |
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Jan 10, 2011 21:00
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my1999gsr posted:Well, there's two possibilities. One, your door latch is bad (the sensor is part of the latch) in which case you'll have to replace it, or two, you've got some broken wires in the door hinge. For the DIYer, broken wires are the easier repair - just pull the boot back and repair the broken wires. Removing the door latch isn't really hard either - if you have basic hand tools (and the correct sized triple-square bit for the exterior latch bolts) it can be done pretty easily. If you'd like some step by step directions I can post them. That would be great and if you know part numbers that would be a bonus.
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Jan 10, 2011 23:55
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LorneReams posted:I have a 2001 vw jetta with 165K that has a couple of troubling problems. Ok, first, what engine does your Jetta have? I'm guessing a 2.0L gasoline engine and they're known to consume oil. There's a couple of common areas that your car will leak coolant. Most common areas are the coolant flange on the driver's side of the head and the seal around the water pump. Just look for pink powdery junk and it'll lead you right to the leak. The best way to find a coolant leak is to get a coolant system pressure tester (or borrow one), pressurize the system and start looking around the engine bay. The yellow sludge under your cap is normal - it's the result of moisture in your oil but it's usually caused by temperature changes. There's a slim possibility that you've got a bad head gasket but the A4-style VW's aren't known for it.
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Jan 11, 2011 00:03
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movax posted:You'll never guess what I discovered today! Wiper blades for a 2006 A4 are expensive! You were probably looking at the arms. You need to look up wiper inserts. Or... were the arms what you were looking for?
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Jan 11, 2011 00:32
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my1999gsr posted:Ok, first, what engine does your Jetta have? I'm guessing a 2.0L gasoline engine and they're known to consume oil. Thanks a lot for this, it does make me feel better, Good call, it is the 2.0L. About a year ago, the dealer told me I need to replace the radiator because it was leaking...it was the only time they mentioned it and I've asked since then and no one can remember ever telling me that, so whatever, maybe that's why my coolant is low. For a while now, I notice that if a take a very sharp turn, the oil light will go off and beep for a while. I pull over, wait a bit, and the oil level comes up fine. I'm at a lost of what could be causing this...oil pump maybe? I love this car and would like it last forever...some people have my model with like twice the mileage, so I'm hopeful. Forgive my ignorance, but what causes a car to consume oil? I thought it was basically a closed system?
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Jan 11, 2011 02:09
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LorneReams posted:Thanks a lot for this, it does make me feel better, Good call, it is the 2.0L. In the early years of the 2.0L engine in the A4-style cars (like yours) there were a lot of complaints about oil consumption. After about a year of customer complaints, VW initiated a customer satisfaction program that called for engines that were oil consumers to have new rings. Some engines stopped consuming oil after the ring-jobs and some continued. We did quite a few of those engines and the problem gradually disappeared in later generations of that engine - typically, if your 2.0 has a throttle cable then it's likely to have had or is having oil consumption problems. Basically, the piston rings weren't scraping oil/sealing in their bores so slight amounts of oil were getting burned up during combustion. If your oil level is low enough and you take a sharp turn then your low oil pressure light will come on as a warning. It's also very possible that the pickup in the oil pan has some gunk or debris in it which makes it harder for the oil pump to draw oil and send it to other parts of the engine.
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Jan 11, 2011 02:42
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Bumming Your Scene posted:You were probably looking at the arms. You need to look up wiper inserts. Or... were the arms what you were looking for? Nope, those are wiper blade prices.
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Jan 11, 2011 02:43
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Throwdown posted:That would be great and if you know part numbers that would be a bonus. The part numbers will depend on your car's options - call your local VW dealer's parts department and give them your VIN - they'll have be able to help you there. I'll try to list the steps to replace the door latch from memory: Remove 1 small philips screw from inner door trim panel right by your side mirror. Remove 3 T20 Torx screws from bottom edge of inner door trim panel. Remove inner portion of inner door handle. (The part of the handle that the middle joints of your fingers would grip) You do this by wedging a small screwdriver under it and pushing it inward - toward the door panel. Pull up the plastic panel with the window switches and lock buttons in it. It will resist but just pull it straight up - it's held in by spring clips. Unclip the beige electrical connector and set the panel aside. With the handle removed you can see 3 large, copper colored philips screws. Remove them. Grasp the inner trim panel at the bottom or sides and pull it toward you and then up to free the lock button rod. The panel is held on by plastic clips and some of them will break but don't worry about it - the screws do a good job of holding the panel in place. Disconnect the plugs from light at the bottom left corner of the trim panel, the tweeter, and the controls for the gas flap and trunk release. The cable for the inner door handle should be the last bit before you can set the panel aside. There is a small plastic toothed catch that you have to release right near the door handle. Have a close look at it - it's self-explanatory but a little fragile so don't break it. After you unclip the cable, pull it backwards and out of it's mount. You'll see that it has a little plastic tube that the cable sits inside so remember how it came apart. If you feel comfortable so far with these instructions let me know and I'll post the rest of it.
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Jan 11, 2011 03:04
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my1999gsr posted:Nope, those are wiper blade prices. I may have hosed up then? I just called them blades because that's what I'm used to purchasing (go to store, buy two Rain-X blades, replace). What are the inserts (http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...eek+Google+Base) then, replacing the actual rubber element on the blade?
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Jan 11, 2011 18:23
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my1999gsr posted:Boost problems are a little harder to diagnose without looking at the car - usually I can watch and read a variety of inputs to get a better idea of what's going on. It's certainly possible that you've got a diverter valve problem but I'm not a big fan of throwing parts at a problem without a little more diagnostic time. Thankfully, before I threw the part at the problem I had another problem rear its head. While idling outside the dealership as I was getting my winter tires out of storage one of my coil packs went. Being a 1.8T owner I obviously knew what was up. So I bought one, popped it in and was lucky to pick the busted one on the second try. Turns out it fixed my problem with the stuttering boost, I can only assume the coil was on it's last legs and couldn't create a spark when the compression increased under boost.
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Jan 11, 2011 18:41
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I have an Audi question! I need a rebuilt or used cylinder head for my '90 Coupe Quattro. I cannot for the life of me find either: 1. A good source for used Audi parts that isn't ebay. 2. Info on which other 5 cylinder Audis I could get a compatible head from. Any help would be really really really appreciated.
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Jan 11, 2011 23:49
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elzergone posted:I have an Audi question! Also consider joining an Audi forum (even VW Vortex, loath as I am to suggest it) and endlessly troll their for sale section until someone parts out a car in the range you want. quote:2. Info on which other 5 cylinder Audis I could get a compatible head from. The AAF/AAN engine is 10v, so you don't want anything from that. I think the bottom end is supposed to be interchangeable between those two engines, so it's something to look out for. edit: As far as I can tell the AAN engine was in the Audi 4000 and 5000, the AAF in the Volkswagen Eurovan and the 7A was in the Audi 90 and Coupe/Coupe GT/Coupe Quattro. I don't know about the Audi 100, but I think that had an engine that was neither AAN nor 7A. Audi 90s should be plentiful, but they also came with the "NG" engine, which appears to be a 10v, so make sure. The obvious way to tell the difference between the 10v and 20v heads is to count the number of valves.  From Wikipedia: quote:Audi 80 (NG: 09/91-11/94), Audi 90 (NG: 04/87-12/91, 7A: 06/88-12/91), Audi Coupé (NG: 08/86-07/94, 7A: 11/88-07/91), Audi Cabriolet (NG: 06/91-07/94), Audi 100 (NF: 08/86-12/90, AAR: 12/90-07/94), Audi A6 (AAR: 06/94-06/96) ID and data from ETKA. After these dates it appears they standardized mostly on 6-cylinders in the Coupe. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Jan 12, 2011 |
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Jan 12, 2011 00:07
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Seat Safety Switch posted:car-part.com might be able to find a junkyard local to you that has what you're looking for, though you are going to deal with a half dozen different gruff mechanics who have different insane pricing schemes all over North America. Yeah I was bracing for that. My 944s have spoiled me. (  )quote:My guess is that this is the 20v I5 which would be a 7A engine in nonturbo form. Yeah it is the 2.3 7A. Thanks, that actually helps a lot. Coming from pretty much exclusively working on 944s, I wasn't sure if there were different water passages or not... stuff like that. More and more its looking like an AAN swap would be the easy way out. e: easy does not equal cheap 
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Jan 12, 2011 00:26
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I figure while I'm over here in Audi land I might as well update the status of the Audi 5000CS we're trying to bring back to life (AAN engine, big spender right here). So far we continue to have no progress on the warm start front seeing as, appropriately, there have been days recently where the daily high is -22'C. This sucks because I really want to work on the car and I'm getting tired of seeing it just sitting there building a pile of snow. It appears that there is nobody willing or able to rebuild injectors for this car; all the normal injector rebuild places don't know what the hell is up with CIS injectors and refuse to touch them, at least not with a guarantee that my money will actually end up in a workable injector. The mechanic who has been working on this car off and on (when it can actually reach him to be repaired) thinks the O2 sensor ground might be to blame. It's starting to look like we might just fake a distress situation and have the auto club tow truck carry the car to the mechanic to have him just deal with it. I already put a multimeter on the O2 sensor and grounded it to the exhaust manifold on a cold start, and the results seemed to be okay (the Human Speakers site seems to imply that the oxygen sensor should fluctuate fairly steadily - this is what we indeed observed). That doesn't necessarily eliminate the O2 sensor ground from contention - it just means that the ground I made with the multimeter was the correct one. Being unaccustomed to electronics in the general case, is there a quick and easy way for me to verify whether or not the O2 sensor ground is bad before I pack the car up and take it on its magical journey to a small town featuring only a tractor museum and 7-11 equipped with observation deck? I thought I had multimetered pretty close to the actual grounding point, but it's possible that I have forgotten exactly how I did it as it's been months. We still need to do an injector balance test, but the thermo time switch appears to be functioning correctly as the cold start valve actuates the cold start injector correctly. I am suspecting one of the more expensive parts (warm-up regulator) as the car runs increasingly rough after starting up from a cold start, to the point where after a few minutes the car is trying to flood and stall itself with insanely rich exhaust. Having typed this, I now realize I did not bother to remove the cold start injector to see if it operates during warm start when it really shouldn't - which would indicate a stuck-closed thermo time switch. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 00:41 on Jan 12, 2011 |
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Jan 12, 2011 00:32
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I think I've managed to figure out what the problem was with my brake lights coming on when the car was parked. It's a brake sensor problem, and it was also causing the occasional loss of power under acceleration. I'm a little ashamed it took me so long to figure it out, but it wasn't just the brake lights after all. Driving the car around at night recently I noticed that whenever I had that momentary loss of power under acceleration my brake lights were coming on -- I was able to see the reflection of the middle light in my rear window. So effectively the car thought I was braking, and naturally it dropped the throttle when that happened. B7's have electronic throttle with no physical linkages, which is why the braking action is able to override the throttle pedal. That also explains why I sometimes couldn't engage the cruise control. The traction control light staying on after starting the car is still a mystery. This is getting fixed on Thursday. I'm glad I paid extra for a dealer-sold CPO car now...
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Jan 12, 2011 04:25
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Took my 09 GTI in for the 40k today which also had a CEL on a few days prior. Apparently the fault is for the intake flap motor on the manifold. I did notice my mpg take a dip around the same time so I suppose that it's stuck open or something? Anyway, they want to replace the intake flap motor for $970 which seems pretty loving steep to me. Anyone else have this problem before?
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Jan 13, 2011 06:09
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drizzle posted:Took my 09 GTI in for the 40k today which also had a CEL on a few days prior. Apparently the fault is for the intake flap motor on the manifold. I did notice my mpg take a dip around the same time so I suppose that it's stuck open or something? Anyway, they want to replace the intake flap motor for $970 which seems pretty loving steep to me. Anyone else have this problem before? warranty? it's a known issue on these cars...
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Jan 13, 2011 13:39
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primitive posted:warranty? it's a known issue on these cars... I had the exact same thing at 40k and was told it's not covered by warranty since it requires replacing the whole intake manifold. I complained about it, seeing as I don't particularly understand how the hell that is not part of the powertrain, but I got nowhere save a few hundred bucks off. VWoA was also no help, but that may depend on who you get on the line.
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Jan 13, 2011 17:47
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This happened to my '09 GTI a month or two ago at about 16,000 miles (I posted about it at some point), and I had it replaced under warranty with absolutely no problem.
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Jan 13, 2011 17:56
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Mister Duck posted:I had the exact same thing at 40k and was told it's not covered by warranty since it requires replacing the whole intake manifold. What the gently caress? It's not covered by warranty because its too much work? VWOA is so lovely.
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Jan 13, 2011 17:57
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Kylie Sven Opossum posted:What the gently caress? It's not covered by warranty because its too much work? VWOA is so lovely. If I recall correctly, VW was only doing 3/36 warranties on their cars in 09, so that's why they aren't warrantying it. The "powertrain" warranty usually doesn't cover stuff like that. It's not just VWoA that does shady poo poo like this though.
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Jan 13, 2011 19:01
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veedubfreak posted:If I recall correctly, VW was only doing 3/36 warranties on their cars in 09, so that's why they aren't warrantying it. The "powertrain" warranty usually doesn't cover stuff like that. It's not just VWoA that does shady poo poo like this though. Ah, I thought the warranty was longer for 09. Still lovely that they wont cover a part of the engine on the powertrain though. Subjective I know but it seems I hear the most bad things about VWoA warranties.
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Jan 13, 2011 19:20
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Kylie Sven Opossum posted:Ah, I thought the warranty was longer for 09. Still lovely that they wont cover a part of the engine on the powertrain though. Subjective I know but it seems I hear the most bad things about VWoA warranties. People who drive VWs tend to be a bit more vocal than your typical driver. Ya, just looked it up, 09s only have 3/36 http://blogs.insideline.com/straightline/2008/04/vws-2009-warranty-changes-good-news-and-bad-news.html
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Jan 13, 2011 19:25
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Yeah, I guess I just didn't quite understand how it didn't fall under the powertrain. Not much to do about it apart from getting a bit off (they took 300 off) since I did the 40k at the same time. Basically when VWoA told me no, I just ate the cost.
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Jan 13, 2011 19:31
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Owning a VW out of warranty doesn't seem like the best idea..
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Jan 13, 2011 20:15
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When I get a part replaced by a dealer under warranty, does that part have a warranty of its own? i.e.: I had my flapper motor replaced at 15,000 miles. If that breaks again and the rest of the car is out of warranty, am I hosed?
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Jan 13, 2011 20:37
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