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CrazyLittle posted:yeaaaah. If you guys are telling him that even small amounts of snow or slush call for a set of snow tires, why did I get a different answer when I would be driving in similar conditions around Lake Tahoe? We're not saying snow tires, we are saying not summer tires. That's a big difference.
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Jan 14, 2011 21:10
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bull3964 posted:We're not saying snow tires, we are saying not summer tires. That's a big difference. So are the "summer tires" a WRX-standard thing? (Yes, apparently). Outbacks come with Continental ContiProContact all-seasons, so I should be okay. Thanks for the answers!
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Jan 14, 2011 21:21
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I went through a winter on summer tires, and it wasn't good. I had to plan my route to avoid icy hills and even small amounts of snow were a problem. I wouldn't recommend it at all. I did get by without incident, but wouldn't do it again.
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Jan 14, 2011 21:22
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CrazyLittle posted:So are the "summer tires" a WRX-standard thing? (Yes, apparently).
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Jan 14, 2011 22:19
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CrazyLittle posted:So are the "summer tires" a WRX-standard thing? (Yes, apparently). Yeah, the WRX comes with Dunlop Sport SP01 tires, they are ultra high performance summer tires. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Dunlop&tireModel=SP+Sport+01 They started doing this in 09 model year. Prior to that they came with all-seasons. In my personal opinion it was a dumb move. I know WHY they did it, the WRX was getting its rear end handed to it by other cars in magazine tests when it came grip as everyone else was equipping their higher spec cars with summer tires. So, it was a marketing choice. However, as of right now, 49 out of 50 states have snow on the ground somewhere. If I would have taken delivery on my car ANY time this month, I wouldn't have been able to drive it home without chancing wrecking it unless I replaced the tires at the dealership before I ever took it home. That's idiotic. They should at least make regional/time of year allowance in the tire choice. I can forgive the STI as it is such a low volume car and you know you are making practicality compromises when you purchase it, but the WRX is a higher volume seller that's really meant to be a daily driver. Anyone who wants summer tire grip isn't going to be happy with the SP01s anyways as they are really average tires, so they end up getting replaced. For everyone else, they wouldn't notice the difference between these and an UHP all-season most of the time and it would be far far safer and more practical.
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Jan 14, 2011 22:31
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No snow tires on craigslist where I am (Westchester NY). And reading this... bull3964 posted:Anyone who wants summer tire grip isn't going to be happy with the SP01s anyways as they are really average tires, so they end up getting replaced anyways. For everyone else, they wouldn't notice the difference between these and an UHP all-season most of the time and it would be far far safer and more practical. Am I better off just getting a set of RE960s mounted on my stock wheels?
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Jan 14, 2011 22:34
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I am a big fan of the RE960as. I'm on my 2nd pair right now on my '02. They certainly have enough winter capability to get someone by in all but heavy/blizzard snow conditions. I can't say for 100% certain whether you would notice a difference between them and the SP01s under normal conditions as I don't know your driving style. Texas doesn't strike me as the kind of place where you'll be carving the twisties very often so you may not be giving up much feel going to them. I will say this, they are PHENOMENAL wet tires. I think it's a solid plan. If you go that route, you have two choices. You can sell of the SP01s to make up some of the money you spent on the RE960as or you can just hold on to them until the RE960as wear out and you won't have to worry about snow anymore. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Jan 14, 2011 |
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Jan 14, 2011 22:46
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Tatrakrad posted:No snow tires on craigslist where I am (Westchester NY). http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=138
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Jan 14, 2011 23:03
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jamal posted:http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=138 Thanks. I forgot they had classifieds
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Jan 14, 2011 23:59
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CrazyLittle posted:yeaaaah. If you guys are telling him that even small amounts of snow or slush call for a set of snow tires, why did I get a different answer when I would be driving in similar conditions around Lake Tahoe? That said, I'm a winter tire whore and really believe that anyone living somewhere where they actually have winter should buy winter tires. Tahoe (and some other areas) are kind of unique. To get up the hill, you spend 75% of the time in 50F+ weather which will wear the crap out of winter tires. Similarly in some more southern locations, you'll have a total of 5 days of snow every year. This is really the only place i think all-seasons are advisable, though if someone goes to Tahoe every weekend, they'd do well to get some all-seasons that emphasize snow performance -- such as Nokian's WR series. All-seasons though are always better than summer tires in the snow. I'm not going to begrudge some guy who's in a snowy area for 4 months buying all-seasons (so he can use them after he moves) to avoid driving on summers. I think good tires are even more important on AWD as in snow it is hard to tell what your level of grip is. AWD avoids a lot of tire tire spin of 2WD cars which can lead to increased confidence. You can drive faster and feel more comfortable, well until you try to brake or turn. . . . There's a reason the cars you see in the ditch are almost always A/4wd. Even with proper tires, those driving AWD should be more cautious because the surface condition is less obvious.
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Jan 15, 2011 00:13
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I always feel like I JUST miss a deal on some wheel/tire combo I would have gone for.
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Jan 15, 2011 01:45
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I learned back in '05 with my RS that summer tires in the winter DOESN'T WORK. They're straight up DANGEROUS. On dunlop summers driving to MY GIRLFRIENDs house late at night had me sliding completely through an intersection. The tires turned into hockey pucks. I got winter tires shortly after that.
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Jan 15, 2011 03:23
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Advice taken. I'm picking up some used Goodyear F1 all seasons tomorrow in Long Island. Thanks guys.
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Jan 15, 2011 03:35
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CrazyLittle posted:yeaaaah. If you guys are telling him that even small amounts of snow or slush call for a set of snow tires, why did I get a different answer when I would be driving in similar conditions around Lake Tahoe? They just said get a used set of wheels and tires, not necessarily snow tires. My old WRX went through blizzards and up pretty step ice and snow covered driveways on stock all seasons (the lovely RE92s). The one (and only) time I attempted to get by on summer tires after a snow resulted in me drat near sliding into an intersection. Summer tires literally turn into hockey pucks below 40 degrees. But, the amount of snow required to get a Subaru on newer all-seasons stuck on public roads is much more than you're likely to ever see.
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Jan 15, 2011 06:04
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Actually low temps can be fine (depending on the particular summer tire), just as long as it's dry. I had my SP01s out a few times in the low 30's high 20's and I guarantee you I could stop shorter than I can on my snow tires right now in the dry. Add any sort of moisture to the equation though at those temps and you're up poo poo creek.
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Jan 15, 2011 06:46
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Kageneko posted:I always feel like I JUST miss a deal on some wheel/tire combo I would have gone for. This happened to me (a day late almost always) for years and then one day I actually got that sweet winter tire deal. Four mint winter tires on a set of BMW bottlecap rims for $150. Its crazy how many good winter tire deals show up on craigslist and kijiji.
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Jan 15, 2011 15:25
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$800 bucks for an 04 forester xt trans and rear diff. Worth it? I'm pretty sure the setup is 4.44 and should bolt in fine to my 02 RS?
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Jan 15, 2011 16:15
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bull3964 posted:Actually low temps can be fine (depending on the particular summer tire), just as long as it's dry. I had my SP01s out a few times in the low 30's high 20's and I guarantee you I could stop shorter than I can on my snow tires right now in the dry. Add any sort of moisture to the equation though at those temps and you're up poo poo creek. I actually noticed that the tires were hard as rocks (same SP01s) once it got down to about freezing. Once they warmed up they were fine, but until then they did not perform like a tire should. On an unrelated note, I figured I'd stop by this thread after not visiting AI for like a year.
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Jan 15, 2011 17:13
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Slow is Fast posted:$800 bucks for an 04 forester xt trans and rear diff. Worth it?
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Jan 15, 2011 19:54
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So I'm about to drop the hammer and get an all-new WRX STI 2011 in early February and I need to know: What accessories are really handy to get from the dealer? What price should I expect the dealership to ask for first and settle with later? What's the best way of breaking in the engine? What other things should I know before purchasing? Thanks!
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Jan 16, 2011 04:01
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Catsoup posted:So I'm about to drop the hammer and get an all-new WRX STI 2011 in early February and I need to know: none don't know drive normally, stay off the rev limiter you need a downpipe, tune, swaybars, and alignment immediately.
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Jan 16, 2011 04:24
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Catsoup posted:So I'm about to drop the hammer and get an all-new WRX STI 2011 in early February and I need to know: I would advise against spending money on Nav, it's my understanding that just about any aftermarket system is going to be better than the stock system (both in terms of actual sound quality, and nav quality). The only option I added was rubber floor mats, I thought about the extended arm rest but it doesn't match the rest of the STI's interior (or didn't when I bought mine, it may now) and the BBS wheels for track/AX duty. Catsoup posted:What price should I expect the dealership to ask for first and settle with later? If you live in a place with a Costco use their auto buying program you'll instantly start the deal at 500 over invoice. I ended up at 500 UNDER invoice for my 2010. Catsoup posted:What's the best way of breaking in the engine? You're going to get answers ranging from drive it like your grandmother to drive it like you stole it, and everything in between. I for the most part followed the recommendation of varying the revs until 1000 miles as laid out in the owners manual. I did not however baby the car and did a number of autocrosses while still under the magical 1000 mile mark though I also changed my oil after each one (perhaps overkill?). I switched to synthetic at 3000 miles and have never had a single issue with my engine (at ~13k now). When I bought my car EVERYONE said to get an Accessport immediately and install the stage 1 map as it was "safer" than the stock map. Looking at the AFR's in the stock map there was clearly some truth in that. I'm not certain if this is still the case with the 2011's or not but you should check IWSTI and see what folks are saying as I suspect that it is. Catsoup posted:What other things should I know before purchasing? The dealerships will give you all kinds of poo poo about how "Rare" the car is and blah blah blah. I went in knowing the location and asking price of *every single STI in Portland* along with the color and packages on each car when I went to make the deal and as a result skipped all of that bullshit, I would advise that you do the same. allonblack fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Jan 16, 2011 |
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Jan 16, 2011 04:33
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I'm about to pull the trigger on an 03 Legacy L sedan. 53K,5 speed and the dealer wants $7800. Is this a fair price? Are there any issues to this particular model I should look for? It's my first car and I'm hopefully gonna be driving this thing for quite a while so I want to make sure I get off on the right foot.
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Jan 16, 2011 04:33
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allonblack posted:When I bought my car EVERYONE said to get an Accessport immediately and install the stage 1 map as it was "safer" than the stock map. Looking at the AFR's in the stock map there was clearly some truth in that. I'm not certain if this is still the case with the 2011's or not but you should check IWSTI and see what folks are saying as I suspect that it is.
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Jan 16, 2011 04:54
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Catsoup posted:What accessories are really handy to get from the dealer? The last two were kinda "why not?" buys, although the arm rest extender is REALLY nice. It sounds like such a little meaningless thing, but I tend to drive with my elbow on the center console, and this made the car more comfortable to drive in. I thought it was worth it. I wouldn't get the nav, as someone said. It costs like, $3000 extra I think... not worth it. I found a used nav unit off of Nasioc for $600 and installed it myself. However, as someone above said, nearly any aftermarket unit will be better for cheaper. Also, I kinda regret the iPod and Subwoofer (since I replaced the iPod connection with my new deck... and the subwoofer isn't that loud anyway).
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Jan 16, 2011 05:30
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allonblack posted:I would advise against spending money on Nav, it's my understanding that just about any aftermarket system is going to be better than the stock system (both in terms of actual sound quality, and nav quality). I suggest that you actually test drive a vehicle that has the nav system you're looking at. Aftermarket nav systems are definitely the best at what they do, but the factory systems offer better integration with the rest of the vehicle.
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Jan 16, 2011 07:26
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dk2m posted:I'm about to pull the trigger on an 03 Legacy L sedan. 53K,5 speed and the dealer wants $7800. Is this a fair price? Are there any issues to this particular model I should look for? It's my first car and I'm hopefully gonna be driving this thing for quite a while so I want to make sure I get off on the right foot. That seems pretty overpriced to me. $8k will get you into a 2005 Legacy, which is a better car, without HG issues.
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Jan 16, 2011 08:40
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Seat Safety Switch posted:The stock map is still terrible according to my tuner's dyno, at least. You should absolutely seek an AP, or better yet, a decent open source tune by someone with some experience. Is there a solid answer somewhere on if Subaru can tell if the car has been flashed? Assuming you flash back to stock before taking the car to the dealer. I'm wondering if there are timestamps somewhere...
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Jan 16, 2011 15:14
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sanchez posted:Is there a solid answer somewhere on if Subaru can tell if the car has been flashed? Assuming you flash back to stock before taking the car to the dealer. I'm wondering if there are timestamps somewhere... I would assume those parameters are capable of being overwritten from a competent flashing tool, since they are just stored in memory along with everything else. I would be surprised if Subaru techs took the time to check it out in order to deny a warranty claim, particularly if it's not related to an engine problem. A lot of their book hours (at least in Canada) are on the optimistic side, which sucks for them. That said, I'm not saying you should go in there with the Cobb tune right on the ECU trying to intentionally make them angry - I'm just saying they probably won't search for the specific parameters unless it's getting into the humongous-expense category of warranty repair (e.g. blown engine).
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Jan 16, 2011 20:52
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Ive got an 06 WRX that ive had for just over a year now ive got a cat-back and an STI intercooler and I have a catless downpipe sitting in my garage, Thing is im afraid to go full catless without reflashing it. Im an idiot for thinking a OTS opensource tune would be the best way to keep my engine from grenading itself?, ive heard from the echo chamber on NASIOC that i could crack a ringland with no tune on an 06 WRX because it will boost creep? I was thinking of getting that tactrix 1.3 cable for $50 on ebay and a cheap netbook to get it flashed. Also it just hit 60,000 miles and on already operating temp startups and after highways I get what I think is some oil smell. Sometimes it shoots a large cloud of smoke when I fill up at the gas station, it doesnt smoke all the time so i highly doubt its a compression/ringland issue. I don't run a turbo timer. Symptoms of rear main seal going or should I look to replace that PCV T-fitting under the IC? Whats the hot turbo upgrade for the 06 2.5 litre these days? Im not looking for 5MT shattering levels of power. I like the response of my turbo but the top end is lacking alot. scradley fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Jan 16, 2011 |
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Jan 16, 2011 20:56
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scradley posted:Whats the hot turbo upgrade for the 06 2.5 litre these days? Im not looking for 5MT shattering levels of power. I like the response of my turbo but the top end is lacking alot. Here it is against a stock TD04: 
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Jan 16, 2011 21:09
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allonblack posted:When I bought my car EVERYONE said to get an Accessport immediately and install the stage 1 map as it was "safer" than the stock map. Looking at the AFR's in the stock map there was clearly some truth in that. I'm not certain if this is still the case with the 2011's or not but you should check IWSTI and see what folks are saying as I suspect that it is. Catsoup fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Jan 16, 2011 |
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Jan 16, 2011 21:50
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I have an additional question about using an Accessport to flash my car. I heard that a Stage 1 is totally safe on a stock setup (well, I have the SPT cat-back exhaust, but it's still 99.9% stock).
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Jan 16, 2011 23:36
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Yup, that's what Stage 1 is for. I have that flashed on my 07 WRX wagon, which only has an STi catback, and it made a pretty substantial difference.
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Jan 17, 2011 00:21
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sanchez posted:Is there a solid answer somewhere on if Subaru can tell if the car has been flashed? Assuming you flash back to stock before taking the car to the dealer. I'm wondering if there are timestamps somewhere... I've been told that when you divorce your accessport from the ECU it restores the backup it took prior to flashing it which restores the stock ecu checksum along with any and all traces of the ECU having been flashed. Cobb's website posted:Q. Can a dealer detect that I have an AccessPORT installed? Catsoup posted:I'm a complete noob when it comes to cars so I don't quite understand what an Accessport is, I'm assuming you're talking about flashing the ECU or something? What do you mean by "safe"? What benefits does that give, and can it void the warranty? Thanks answering so many questions of mine by the way, more will probably be coming :P The accessport is a nifty little device that flashes your ECU with "maps" allowing you to tune your engine. http://www.cobbtuning.com/info/?ID=4357 See above for warranty discussion. As far as the "safe" portion of it, there are much better people active in this thread to explain it to you but I'll do my best job (be nice if I'm way off). AFR refers to your Air to Fuel Ratio, basically as the car gets into boost the ECU should increase the amount of fuel that goes into the system (Rich) in order to prevent knock/detonation. The stock tune doesn't actually alter the AFR until the car is too far into boost leaving the system short on fuel (Lean) which is dangerous to the internals (see knock/detonation).  You can see on this chart the difference between the stock AFR as it relates to boost (IE as the HP climbs), and the proper stage 1 tune. allonblack fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Jan 17, 2011 |
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Jan 17, 2011 01:20
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Ok, that post sold me on an Accessport pretty quickly! Definitely picking up one of those bad boys when I get my STI. I was looking on the website and saw there's tunes for 91 octane - which is good because in Denver I have trouble finding gas stations that sell 93, will this improve my engine's survivability?
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Jan 17, 2011 03:00
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Well I found out on my 400mi trip this weekend why my clutch wasn't disengaging properly. The loving clutch fork is cracked and doesn't seem to be attached to the pivot ball anymore. My clutch isn't totally gone but I was hoping I wouldn't have the do this job this soon. now I have to wait until tuesday to call subaru about a fork on top of it.   Also, anyone have advice on doing a clutch job? Is it easier/quicker to pull then engine or the trans to do the clutch? Edit: will a 2.5rs clutch and flywheel kit work on my EJ22 with a cable clutch? I was going to try to get a lighter flywheel while I'm in there. NinjaTech fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Jan 17, 2011 |
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Jan 17, 2011 03:08
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Catsoup posted:Ok, that post sold me on an Accessport pretty quickly! Definitely picking up one of those bad boys when I get my STI. I was looking on the website and saw there's tunes for 91 octane - which is good because in Denver I have trouble finding gas stations that sell 93, will this improve my engine's survivability? That's the whole point behind switching to the stage 1 tune ASAP - engine survivability.
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Jan 17, 2011 03:31
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allonblack posted:That's the whole point behind switching to the stage 1 tune ASAP - engine survivability.
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Jan 17, 2011 10:51
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Catsoup posted:So how do I decide which one to flash my ECU with? I see Cobb has alot of pre-made ones, but is there a better option if I'm just driving a stock STI straight out of the dealer's lot? Stage 1 infers that it's bone stock. As for *which* stage one, it depends on what gas you're running. 93 octane or 91 octane. If you cannot get 93 octane at all times, use the 91 octane tune.
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Jan 17, 2011 17:25
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