|
So my wife and I just bought a house on Wednesday. The guy that we bought it from did a lot of electrical updating, including the clothes dryer receptacle, but for some reason didn't install an outlet for a washer in the laundry area. They had a washer/dryer combo, so I assume that it ran off of the dryer outlet. Anyway, I decided to put one in myself. The town building inspector is going to come out and inspect what I did, so I'd like to see if anyone could give me a heads up on what I did wrong, if anything. I installed a 20 amp breaker in the panel, and connected it to a GFCI with 12/2 cable. I figured the washer should have its own circuit instead of tapping into an existing one. The in-laws gave me a wiring book for Christmas, so I tried to follow it closely. One thing I didn't see in the book was if there was any restriction on having the outlet as close to the washer hot/cold water faucets as I have it here. So the pictures start at the breaker a panel and end at the receptacle. The cable is yellow, and I circled it in the first picture for clarity. Thanks everyone.      By the way, I know I don't have the faceplate on the receptacle, I just hadn't had it on when I took the picture. porkfriedrice fucked around with this message at 14:42 on Jul 2, 2011 |
#
?
Jan 10, 2011 13:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 07:32 |
|
|
Is it a requirement that the first GFCI outlet in a chain be visible? The wife wants under-cabinet lighting in the kitchen, which isn't a problem for most of it - there's already a receptacle there for the microwave. However on the other side of the kitchen where the sink is there is a GFCI to the right of the sink with the cabinet above it, and then two standard outlets to the left of the sink along the countertop. I believe that the GFCI there is the first in the chain, so what i'd like to do is take the feed line and back it up to a GFCI receptacle inside the cabinet, replace the existing gfci with a standard, and then continue the daisy-chain to the rest of the outlets.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2011 16:53
|
|
|
I've got a detached garage with a single 20 amp circuit going to it. the cable is underground, and travels about 20 feet. I need two more circuits in the garage, and I understand that I gotta dig a trench and bury that sucker in conduit. I know my way around a breaker box and helped my parents wire the lighting and outlets in their house, so I'm pretty confident that I could get it done. Is this the kind of thing I have to get a permit for? And how much would I expect to pay to have somebody do this for me? over $500?
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2011 21:03
|
|
|
Nemico posted:How much are the code books in the states, anyways? Here in Canada I sell them for $150. NEC is about $70-85. I had no idea NEC 2011 was already out. I'm a first year student in the local IBEW JATC program here and we are going by '08 code (and my county was running on '02 code until recently, maybe still). Anyone else here IBEW? I'm green as the grass on a May morning, the forums on electriciantalk are complete poo poo, and I may have some union (or work) related questions at some point.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2011 06:23
|
|
|
iwannabebobdylan posted:Is this the kind of thing I have to get a permit for? And how much would I expect to pay to have somebody do this for me? over $500? If you're in the city limits you probably do need a permit. Darn city's going to take my country property in sometime -_-. And..dig a trench, install conduit and wire two 20a circuits for less than $500? Going rates vary but I'd be surprised.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2011 06:53
|
|
|
chedemefedeme posted:If you're in the city limits you probably do need a permit. Darn city's going to take my country property in sometime -_-. This is a drag! I have electric heaters but can only plug one in at a time and I'm freezing! Thanks for the answer, it hadn't crossed my mind that I might need a permit until yesterday. I was about a week away from starting on it myself.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2011 15:15
|
|
|
Wandering Idiot posted:NEC is about $70-85. http://bulk.resource.org/codes.gov/
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2011 17:38
|
|
|
Can you use backstabs and screws at the same time on an outlet?
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2011 18:02
|
|
|
iwannabebobdylan posted:This is a drag! I have electric heaters but can only plug one in at a time and I'm freezing! For those who are in the know (namely grover? he seems the resident expert) what are the repercussions of doing minor electrical work inside an incorporated city without permit when you are the property/home owner? Obviously its unlikely anyone would find out for years. I'm not encouraging this action but I do realize there is probably a point where you shouldnt have to call in because you're replacing the wall plate or adding a little switch. Obvious disclaimer: If you lease/rent/sub-lease/whatever this is an even more exceedingly dumb idea. Don't do it. insta posted:Can you use backstabs and screws at the same time on an outlet? I believe this was brought up a few pages back. Can you technically? Sure. However use of backstabs is generally discouraged. It may be against code now in some areas? Cant recall if that was the case or if they were just saying it should be.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2011 18:23
|
|
|
chedemefedeme posted:For those who are in the know (namely grover? he seems the resident expert) what are the repercussions of doing minor electrical work inside an incorporated city without permit when you are the property/home owner? Obviously its unlikely anyone would find out for years. If you later want to pull a permit for other work, and the inspector notices this unpermitted work, he can make you do anything he wants (including taking the entire scope of work out and re-doing it) to satisfy him that it is done to code. Also at least in California, when you sell a property you are legally required to disclose all known code violations (including illegally un-permitted work), so if your buyer notices the discrepancy even after the fact they can force you to have it done properly. I may be doing this soon to get a new service installed, which is in the range of $5000. In San Francisco just pulling a permit is $225, so there is no way you're going to trench and install new circuits here for under $500.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2011 18:35
|
|
|
chedemefedeme posted:I'm not encouraging this action but I do realize there is probably a point where you shouldnt have to call in because you're replacing the wall plate or adding a little switch. In my area, if you're not modifying the panel or adding any new devices, you do not need a permit. You can install/remove light fixtures/outlets/switches, as long as the total number of them remains the same and in the same configuration. If you take out a wall with an outlet on it, then install that outlet somewhere else on the same circuit, it'd be a good idea to have a permit, but it's not required. Unpermitted/uninspected work is usually just a fine. If you are doing permitted work and the inspector notices something someone else has done, he can require you to fix it. Normally, inspectors aren't assholes, though, and it's rare for a homeowner to get a fine. Normally, it's professionals making a quick buck on the side for some guy that get hit.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2011 21:10
|
|
|
chedemefedeme posted:For those who are in the know (namely grover? he seems the resident expert) what are the repercussions of doing minor electrical work inside an incorporated city without permit when you are the property/home owner? Obviously its unlikely anyone would find out for years. babyeatingpsychopath posted:In my area, if you're not modifying the panel or adding any new devices, you do not need a permit. You can install/remove light fixtures/outlets/switches, as long as the total number of them remains the same and in the same configuration. Long story short: if you plan on doing work, check with your local planning department and find out what they require permits for. Not all areas allow unlicensed DIY work, either. Mine ONLY allows it if you are the homeowner; EG, no helping friends or DIY work in an apartment you're renting.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2011 00:46
|
|
|
I was looking over the permit application for the electrical work that I'm looking at doing and they require that I submit a drawing for approval with the application. Does anyone have any insight or resources on putting together a drawing for this type of work?
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2011 04:51
|
|
|
TouchyMcFeely posted:I was looking over the permit application for the electrical work that I'm looking at doing and they require that I submit a drawing for approval with the application. Your city government should have instructions on exactly what they look for in permit drawings. If your plans require a wet stamp, you'll need to hire an engineer anyway, so you might as well have them put the drawings together. If you mean how to actually draw, you can use whatever you're comfortable with. Hand-drafted is fine. I use AutoCAD 2010 but licenses are expensive. It just needs to be legible. I'm constantly amazed how lovely many engineers' drawings are. edit: AutoCAD can seem like a formidably complicated program, but pretty much everything you need to do for electrical drawings can be done with about 10 different commands.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2011 22:10
|
|
|
I was tasked with replacing a switch at work since I've replaced them around the house, I figured no problem. It is a 3-way switch. Ive looked around online and something is goofy. I have 2 red wires and 1 black wire coming from the wall, as opposed to 2 black wires and 1 red wire which seems to be the standard configuration. The wires are 12 gauge and originally were pushed into the holes in the back of the switch, which I was informed is no longer legal according to the government. So I, being an idiot assumed the 1 black wire needed to attach to the dark screw on the new switch and attached the 2 red wires to the two other screws. When I powered it on, had a little spark so i turned it off and removed the switch. Two of the terminals had burn marks on them. I attempted to reconnect to the old switch to make sure I didnt screw anything serious up and couldnt remember how the wires were supposed to be connected. So, should I assume the burnt switch is useless, buy a new one and reconnect it in a different way? Any better ideas? Please help Goons. Brice fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Jan 15, 2011 |
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2011 02:49
|
|
|
Check the old switch with a multimeter, replace if it doesn't check out, and then map your wires before reconnecting. I'm no electrician but I just don't see any reason to blindly hook wires up when I could spend an extra 20 minutes to be sure. If I didn't write down/remember where the wires went originally, at least.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2011 04:03
|
|
|
Ring it out to make sure. Takes about 30 seconds and eliminates several minutes of trial & error and a possible short circuit that burns down the building.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2011 04:11
|
|
|
I don't have a multimeter available to me and also don't know what ring it out means.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2011 04:21
|
|
|
Brice posted:I don't have a multimeter available to me and also don't know what ring it out means. You should really go get yourself a multimeter, though. Even a $10 special is incredibly useful for a great number of things.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2011 04:23
|
|
|
grover posted:"ring out" means to check continuity with a multimeter or continuity tester. Got a AA, two wires and a flashlight bulb? Rubber band and a couple wraps of tape, and you've got yourself a continuity tester. Is something like this what I should look for? 
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2011 04:43
|
|
|
Something like this would be fine: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-90899.html 
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2011 04:50
|
|
|
Ill hit the local harbor freight in the morning. If its not too much to ask could you give me a quick walk through of what setting I need it on and how to do the testing?
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2011 04:54
|
|
|
Brice posted:Ill hit the local harbor freight in the morning. If you're trying to find your standing hot, use the volts AC setting vs. ground when the power is on. It should be around 120. Neutral vs. ground should register a small voltage, maybe even up to 30. Don't electrocute yourself. Normally these should be colored properly but there can always be a surprise. If you're trying to match 2 endpoints of a wire, use the continuity (buzzer) or impedance (ohms) setting and listen for the sound or look for zero ohms (or very close to it) with the power disconnected. Don't do this with the power on. I find old extension cords very handy for this. You can slot wires on one end into the receptacle and then use your probes at the other end to check for continuity. There's probably some electrician-approved method for checking continuity across long distances but I've never heard it. Also if you are a complete novice, don't accidentally use the current settings when testing voltage. Very bad news.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2011 05:41
|
|
|
Brice posted:Ill hit the local harbor freight in the morning. All meters like this have certain ranges where they're most accurate; you have to be careful to set the correct range, or you might damage it. For voltage readings of 120V AC power lines, the "AC 0-200V" is the right setting. This will also make an excellent battery tester; put it onto "VDC 2V" for testing 1.5V AA and AAA batteries (the label in the photo shows "2000mV" which is the same thing [2V=2000mV]). For testing 9V batteries or 12V car batteries, use 20V DC. You could use the 20V setting for testing AA batteries, too, but you lose precision; instead of reading 1.44V it may read either 1.4V. Same is true of the 750V AC setting. As sixide says, use the resistance (Ω) modes to test for continuity. It really doesn't matter which if all you're looking for is a connection. If it's a short circuit, the meter will read 0Ω or very close to it. Before you do this, make sure power is secured by using the voltage tester to verify there is no power between and of the lines. Trying to use this on a powered line could damage it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2011 13:38
|
|
|
Sorry for the crappy pictures. Decided to toss these up since HF isnt open yet and in the off chance they affect anything. The wires  Front of old switch .JPG) Rear of old switch-Kind of hard to see but it has one hole on top and two on bottom. .JPG) Burnt terminals of new switch .JPG)
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2011 14:56
|
|
|
I'm having a lot of trouble imagining how an incorrectly installed 3 way switch could cause a short in the first place. The worst that should happen is that one position of the switch just won't turn the light on, right? None of those wires should ever be connected to neutral so it couldn't possibly short. Unless of course something's screwy at the other switch, which I guess is always possible. But if that were true then it never should have worked. Wait a minute. Brice, when did this switch stop working, and what were the exact symptoms? Was anyone screwing around with the wiring at the time?
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2011 18:51
|
|
|
Nobody was doing anything to any part of our wiring. I had to replace the switch because it didn't have a cover on it and the old switch which was set laterally which they don't make covers for. E: I put the red and black probe on every wire and get a reading of 0 on each one. Tester set to the 200v ac setting, black probe plugged into COM red into the Vohm mA. Brice fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Jan 15, 2011 |
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2011 22:48
|
|
|
Brice posted:Nobody was doing anything to any part of our wiring. I had to replace the switch because it didn't have a cover on it and the old switch which was set laterally which they don't make covers for. Put the black probe solidly against the metal of the box and check every wire at 200vac. If there's no voltage ANYWHERE, then the problem is not anywhere near that switch.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2011 04:29
|
|
|
I've been looking online, but can't find an answer. Is there a general code for distance of a power receptacle and a gas line? In this case the gas line is active and inspected OK running to my tankless water system. I need to run a power receptacle for the tankless unit and the best location I can find is about 6" to the right of a vertical gas line. Is this an issue so long as I place a cover plate after installing the receptacle? (standard 15A GFI circuit).
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2011 06:43
|
|
|
Ahz posted:I've been looking online, but can't find an answer. I don't think the NEC has any limits on how far away a receptacle has to be from a gas line. A standard plate and gfci should be fine.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2011 12:22
|
|
|
Did anyone get a chance to check out the pictures of the receptacle I installed at the top of this page? Just looking for any comments/criticisms of the job I did. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2011 06:32
|
|
|
I'd like some advice in an electrical area I know little about: High efficiency, extremely high lumen outdoor lighting. Looking for something between 100 and 200watts and below $200 in total cost to implement. Goal is to put out as much light as possible in an area between 45 and 90 degrees. The square, reflector backed, glass fronted HID type lights seem by far to produce the most lumens per watt. It seems that 100w HID bulbs produce between 8000 and 12,000 lumens. I'd love to do 150w if it is in budget. I'm curious if there is advantages between mercury, metal halide, high pressure sodium, etc. I'm also curious where, if anywhere, ballasts come into this. None of the stuff on Home Depot or Lowes (only two electrical supply places in town though I'm not opposed to ordering online) show online appear to mention any need for a ballast on both the fixture and bulb product information. Are these bulbs self ballasting using a filament or some internal function? I'd love to not deal with ballasts and just have something I can pop a bulb in every year or two. Anything else I need to know or consider to implement such a light? Never dealt with anything above halogen before, but it seems that halogen is put to shame in lumens to watts when compared to HID.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2011 06:00
|
|
|
What kind of fixture do you want? Decorative or functional? What kind of mounting? Ceiling, wall, or conduit? 200w incandescent bulbs are pretty common, and you can get fixtures like these without the ugly guard.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2011 14:11
|
|
|
No I'm talking like..lighting up a small parking lot. http://www.homedepot.com/Lighting-F...catalogId=10053 I'm mainly interested in the self-ballasting/no-ballast-required HID stuff.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2011 16:14
|
|
|
Oh, yeah. Metal Halide is going to give you a more white light, whereas HPS is going to yellow over time. So you're gonna go with Wall Mount like in the link you posted? I've been looking for a place to buy them online (the ones I sell aren't available online) and I've had way more luck finding Arm Mount like the first few here within budget than I am Wall or Yoke mount. There's a major Lumen output difference between 100w and 150w. I could probably sell you a 175w Yoke mount for $214 if you lived in Alberta (14000 lumen output)
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2011 17:03
|
|
|
So whatsthe world with ballasts on these? Not required? It is going up high and I'd like it to be super low maintenance. I'd like to visit it less than once a year, and then just for a bulb swap.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2011 01:32
|
|
|
The ballasts are all built into the fixture, and are simple pull out, put a new one in replacement. Ballasts last a good while, anyways. Lots of them get obsoleted before they need to be replaced (see: mercury vapor) See if you can get a Photocell to go along with your light. They're pretty cheap and there should be a pre-made hole to mount it on the fixture.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2011 02:32
|
|
|
grover posted:Something like this would be fine: Probably not a big deal for folks working with 24VDC and up to 240VAC, but... That flimsy-rear end thing goes to 1kV DC and 750VAC? I'm amazed that this thing is listed as being a Cat-II device at those voltages. (The category ratings (I, II, III, and IV) refer to the ability of the meter to protect the user from transients.) Still should work fine for 120VAC. (If you have $500 to blow, I've always liked the Fluke 87. Worked great with the 3000A current clamp.) Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Jan 23, 2011 |
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2011 04:54
|
|
|
Three-Phase posted:Probably not a big deal for folks working with 24VDC and up to 240VAC, but... That flimsy-rear end thing goes to 1kV DC and 750VAC? I'm amazed that this thing is listed as being a Cat-II device at those voltages. (The category ratings (I, II, III, and IV) refer to the ability of the meter to protect the user from transients.) Still should work fine for 120VAC.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2011 13:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 07:32 |
|
|
grover posted:The Fluke 87 would probably only costs about $3 to manufacture, too, if not for the calibration and testing. The high-speed fuses alone for the 87 cost more than $3, the 11 amp one is about $9 on Amazon. But yeah, they've got to do a lot of safety testing and engineering to say "this thing is safe under category IV conditions at 600VAC and cat-II at 1000VAC." They have some nice features too, like the beeping and displaying LEAD if you are plugged between COM and 20A and switch the unit to volts. I sort of preferred the Dranetz approach of having a physical window where you simply could not plug into the current input when you select to measure voltage. The Fluke 115 is pretty nice and only $175 ("only" in respect to $500 for the 87). Again, probably not necessary for home users unless you're doing a lot of electrical stuff. Most homeowners don't really need a True-RMS device or the capability of measuring frequency with their meter. Fluke sells a Volt-Alert pen that you can get for about $25 at Sears, it's worth every penny and apparently has saved a lot of lives. Anyone thinking about electrical work (on home AC systems) must get one of these. (At my workplace, though, we have a lot of 125VDC systems that cannot be detected by these pens.) Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Jan 23, 2011 |
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2011 14:33
|
|