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Cakefool posted:Battery replaced, all good. 2 Questions - how do I get a radio code since its sat dead for 3 days? I registered with Volvo.com. Emailed my VIN. They got back to me with the code in one business day with the code. I am going to do all future owners a solid and write it in sharpie on the top of the radio. Of course I will probably get rid of it anyway. It seems to have coke syrup all over it as did the rest of the interior. Seriously, this guy must have bathed in that poo poo.
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Jan 6, 2011 21:55
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I just bought a white '93 245 with 117,000 miles on the clock. It has a new exhaust, alternator, water pump, and timing belt, and minimal rust (I live in MA so I'm surprised by this). I have a few questions, namely: 1) What should I be checking/replacing right away? I've heard I should check the flame trap but I have no idea how much of a pain that is to do, or even what it looks like. I'm going to change the oil just for the peace of mind. 2) Some of the outer trim was screwed on by idiots. Come warmer weather I'd like to fix their mistakes and attach them properly, but what kind of adhesive should I use? 3) Is there anything that I should be watching out for in particular? This is the oldest car I've ever owned so I don't really know what creaks are normal and which are telling me that my wheels are about to fall off. It's silly but just looking at it makes me all 
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Jan 6, 2011 22:42
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ch1mp posted:I've had an itch to get another 240 or older model and it's not going away. I'm thinking 240 because I want to drive it year round and it seems like it would just be wrong to DD any older vintage in the salt belt. Actually, I sometimes get the same angst from daily driving my current 240 in this environment - they seem to be on the cusp. Does anyone else get this with 240's? I do, which is why I traded my '81 wagon to a friend (with other cars to DD) for an '89 244 with a tiny amount of rust. The '89 has a galvanized body, so it'll probably be good to go for quite a few years yet; the '81 does not, so the rust that it had in the spare tire wells and in the rear quarters probably would have become fatal had I driven it through the winter. I worry about my current car rusting a little bit, but a good wash every couple weeks does a fine job of keeping the salt from building up too much. The mudflaps keep a lot of salt spray off the undercarriage, too. quote:One of the cars for sale in my area is a 75 240 wagon. It has a B20 engine which is described as fuel injected. Wikipedia tells me that this engine was also used on a 6" howitzer - a selling point, no? The car is described as running very poorly and probably can't be driven away. What is the reputation/part availability for these engines - is this the hateful fuel injection system that Lloyd was talking about somewhere earlier? Are body/chassis/interior parts on this car usually interchangeable with later models? A '75 240 is a very weird beast. It's the only model year 240 that came with a B20, so finding parts for it is going to be very difficult. It's not really a motor worth saving, anyway-it only made 98 horsepower stock, and given the temperament of the K-Jet MFI, it's bound to be making nowhere near that much power at this point (and obviously isn't running that well anyway). I'm not sure if there are any other one-year-only peculiarities that come with a '75, but even if parts are available, if it's not been kept up, you will be replacing everything. About the only reason I'd consider it is if the shell isn't rusty; otherwise, the potential for it to be a total dog is incredibly high. quote:Another is a 69 164 that I mentioned before that needs at least a carb rebuild to run properly. I am not sure how excited I am by this model. 164s are cool, and a '69 avoids all the weirdness that comes with a later car with EFI. I also remember reading somewhere that the '69 model had a higher-compression engine, so it's likely to perform better than later EFI models with the lower-compression B30F. If you're looking for a cruiser, it could work out well (assuming, again, that it's not been completely let go).
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Jan 7, 2011 09:19
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82Daion posted:The '89 has a galvanized body, so it'll probably be good to go for quite a few years yet; the '81 does not I did not know that. Do you know when they started to galvanize? 82Daion posted:I worry about my current car rusting a little bit, but a good wash every couple weeks does a fine job of keeping the salt from building up too much. I am beginning to form the opinion that frequent winter washing does more harm than good - at least where I live. If the road ever gets clear and dry for a significant period of time then maybe it would make sense. This year those conditions have not been present since well before thanksgiving when they started throwing down salt. 82Daion posted:If you're looking for a cruiser, it could work out well (assuming, again, that it's not been completely let go). 
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Jan 7, 2011 20:09
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ch1mp posted:I did not know that. Do you know when they started to galvanize? I believe all MY '88 cars and on (except for the 780 Bertone) were galvanized.
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Jan 7, 2011 20:34
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ch1mp posted:I am beginning to form the opinion that frequent winter washing does more harm than good - at least where I live. If the road ever gets clear and dry for a significant period of time then maybe it would make sense. This year those conditions have not been present since well before thanksgiving when they started throwing down salt. I still think you're better off getting the salt out of there every now and again instead of leaving it to collect in the nooks and crannies of the underbody all winter, but it's not my car, so...v  vquote:The ad for this car was updated and price reduced as a result of a professional inspection. Inspection says that stuck floats have resulted in gas in the oil. Flooding seems like the best case scenario for that symptom but could it not also be bad rings or head gasket? a compression test would eliminate these right? It is also an automatic which is another negative. The guy only bought it a week ago and I've seen it for sale on craigslist at least once in the last six months. And then there is the ethical quandary of driving this year round. I think it's a plausible diagnosis-a blown headgasket probably wouldn't cause that much gas to be in the oil, and your rings would have to be really bad to let a lot of gas by during normal operation, as I understand it. Then again, I am not a mechanic. v  vAn automatic 164 is going to be a very slow proposition, and the automatic is a BW35, which doesn't have overdrive. As a result, the already mediocre fuel economy of the B30 will probably get even worse if you do a lot of highway driving, unless you don't mind driving any faster than 55. Even then, I'd still consider it more trouble than it's worth for a DD, although Crispulus might be better able to fill you in on the realities of it, since he owns one. If I were you, and wanted a vintage Volvo, I'd get a nice car shipped from the west coast or the southwest, and keep a later-model 2/7/940 around for DD duty, if you must have RWD. There just aren't that many nice vintage Volvos in the Midwest, and even the nicest examples will often still have rust. SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Jan 7, 2011 |
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Jan 7, 2011 22:11
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SwashedBuckles posted:I just bought a white '93 245 with 117,000 miles on the clock. It has a new exhaust, alternator, water pump, and timing belt, and minimal rust (I live in MA so I'm surprised by this). I have a few questions, namely: If you look at the accordion hose that runs to the intake manifold from the airbox, there should be a pair of smaller hoses that attach to it. One of these runs from the top of the accordion hose to a location between the intake runners for cylinders 3 and 4; at this end of the hose, you'll find that the hose goes over the top of a small round plastic housing with a plastic or metal screen in it. That screen is the flame trap. If it's clogged, just take the hose off, remove the housing from the smaller hose that it plugs into under the intake manifold, and replace the element. Pop the housing back into the small hose, reconnect the big hose and the smaller vacuum line that connects to the housing, and you'll be good to go. I'd recommend a metal flame trap element; all the plastic ones I've dealt with have been stuck to the housing, and can be very difficult to remove without breaking it. If you want to replace everything, FCP Groton offers a kit. quote:2) Some of the outer trim was screwed on by idiots. Come warmer weather I'd like to fix their mistakes and attach them properly, but what kind of adhesive should I use? If it's the rubber trim running above the rocker panels, I've had good luck with 3M foam trim tape. Just make sure to clean the trim and the area it attaches to on the body with a mild solvent to make sure it sticks well. quote:3) Is there anything that I should be watching out for in particular? This is the oldest car I've ever owned so I don't really know what creaks are normal and which are telling me that my wheels are about to fall off. Most of the major trouble areas in these cars have already been taken care of by your car's previous owners. The mileage is low enough (remarkably low, in fact) that your suspension bushings and components should still be good for a while yet. Things to keep an eye out for are corrosion on the fusebox, and by extension, water leaks-these often go hand in hand and can lead to intermittent electrical issues. The heater core and blower fan motor in these cars is a major pain to replace, but again, with as low as your car's mileage is, it should be a long time before you have to address them. The last thing I'd recommend that you check is the rubber cam plug in the back of the cylinder head; if it's loose, it needs to be replaced ASAP, since it can cause you to lose the majority of your oil. Just stay on top of preventative maintenance stuff, and the car should serve you for many miles to come. 
SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Jan 7, 2011 |
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Jan 7, 2011 23:27
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Is there an email address at volvo or volvo canada where I can get specific information like numbers of imported, original sale value etc.?
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Jan 8, 2011 06:08
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Is turbobricks down for anyone else?
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Jan 8, 2011 21:47
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Jack_Handey posted:Is turbobricks down for anyone else? It's down here as well.
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Jan 8, 2011 22:20
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82Daion posted:If you look at the accordion hose that runs to the intake manifold from the airbox, there should be a pair of smaller hoses that attach to it. One of these runs from the top of the accordion hose to a location between the intake runners for cylinders 3 and 4; at this end of the hose, you'll find that the hose goes over the top of a small round plastic housing with a plastic or metal screen in it. That screen is the flame trap. Thanks for all the awesome info! I'm not sure I'll be able to get at the flame trap, it's really buried in there. Should I need to remove anything or is it just a tight squeeze?
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Jan 9, 2011 03:23
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SwashedBuckles posted:Thanks for all the awesome info! I'm not sure I'll be able to get at the flame trap, it's really buried in there. Should I need to remove anything or is it just a tight squeeze? If you're going to pull and clean the oil separator box while you're in there (do this so you'll know your hoses are good from the engine on up to the intake), just pull your idle air control motor and hose and the whole shebang is pretty accessible under the intake manifold from the front.
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Jan 9, 2011 06:29
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Parts Parts Parts IPD came through with the rear Nivomats. So far FCP Groton owes me a couple of front struts. Hope this isn't the start of some bullshit. This weekend is supposed to be nice on Saturday anyway. Anybody got any helpful hints or tips for new shocks, struts, front end including control arms on a 99 v70xc?
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Jan 12, 2011 01:35
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So, Georgia's kind of hosed over in terms of ice and snow. I was going up a fairly intense hill with the W mode engaged (since I was just starting) and I started slipping. About a minute later, I noticed the W arrow light was flashing and my Check Engine light had gone on. I've driven it a bit since, and it drives fine, though the W mode won't engaged. Checking the manual, I see the following for this: quote:The lamp will light up when the Winter starting mode is engaged or if gears "3" or "L" are selected. I also see this for Check Engine: quote:If the lamp comes on (or stays on after the vehicle has started), the engine diagnostic system has detected a possible fault in the emission control system. Although driveability may not be affected, see an authorized Volvo dealer as soon as possible for inspection. I'm assuming since it started simultaneously that these are probably a related issue and not an Emissions issue? Or could the transmission have killed something in that? Anyway, what're some of the possibilities for this - if it's just that the W mode is dead, I really can deal without it for a bit if it's not likely to kill my car. If it's something more, how bad is it? What's it likely going to cost me to get it repaired?
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Jan 13, 2011 04:57
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Casao posted:
I would bet they are not related. What model and year Volvo is it? How many miles? My check engine light came on in my 99 v70xc (they always do a week after you buy a car). It was one of the two 02 sensors. Amazon had a package deal on both sensors and a 02 socket for under $200. If you don't have a code reader go to autozone and get the code off the obdii and it should tell you what the problem is.
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Jan 13, 2011 13:41
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EvellSnoats posted:I would bet they are not related. What model and year Volvo is it? How many miles? My check engine light came on in my 99 v70xc (they always do a week after you buy a car). It was one of the two 02 sensors. Amazon had a package deal on both sensors and a 02 socket for under $200. It's a 95 850 GLT, about 129k miles on it. I don't have a code reader, I'll see about getting an obdii code.
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Jan 13, 2011 14:12
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IIRC your problem may be an easily-replaced gearbox sensor that's shat the bed.Casao posted:It's a 95 850 GLT, about 129k miles on it. Torque And Scantool.net's Bluetooth-enabled OBD2 scan tool, available from Amazon here (no price change but I know Amazon does coupons sometimes). Ask me what I got for Christmas. Now you have to decide if you want to drive with Maps or a detailed description of what your car is doing all the time as it happens. What a dilemma; have fun, go nuts!Now I have a question: I have a B230F in an '89 740GL with the standard mechanical viscous-clutch fan on my waterpump. Why do I have a hooked-up sensor in the temperature sensor hole on my radiator just above the transmission cooler lines? My temp gauge (theoretically  ) runs off the temp sensor under the intake manifold on the block; the Greenbooks don't seem to mention the radiator sensor at all for my model.On a B230FT, the radiator sensor is used as the thermostat for the electric fan, but my mechanical fan doesn't need and can't use this data. I'd trace the wires but they dive into the main harness and gently caress tearing that open. I wonder if my PO had the temp sensor on the block fail on him and repurposed the wiring to an easier-to reach sensor location or something? Or maybe the B230F harness has a vestigial plug for that sensor, the PO thought his PO removed the sensor, and so he hooked it up but it doesn't go anywhere?  e: spelling Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Jan 13, 2011 |
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Jan 13, 2011 15:39
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Splizwarf posted:IIRC your problem may be an easily-replaced gearbox sensor that's shat the bed. Thanks, I've been thinking of buying something recently, so that's good. Had to drive into work today, things changed a bit. The Check Engine light is still on, but the up arrow for W mode that indicates transmission issues is no longer flashing, and I was able to go back and forth between W and regular driving without issue. I'm wondering if it was just temperature related, or if maybe a hunk of ice lodged itself somewhere? Either way, I'll grab an OBD2 tool and give this a go, thanks.
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Jan 13, 2011 16:57
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Our 850 used to go into a limp-home mode if you moved the gear selector out of "D" and into "3" or one of the other non-D selections while the car was moving; it was especially annoying when you were going downhill in the winter and wanted some engine braking to help slow the car. A couple restarts usually fixed the issue. It might be nothing, or it might be the sensor Splizwarf mentioned going wonky. We had said sensor replaced about a year ago, but I've been driving 240s since that time, so I don't know if it affected anything.
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Jan 14, 2011 00:46
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Splizwarf posted:Torque Any similar setup for the iphone that anyone has used?
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Jan 14, 2011 01:32
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EvellSnoats posted:Anybody got any helpful hints or tips for new shocks, struts, front end including control arms on a 99 v70xc? While your car isn't an 850, this has some nice pics of the process: http://members.shaw.ca/heeeeee/strut/ I have to replace the struts and shocks on my '95 850 wagon (5 speed woot) like yesterday; the clunking from the broken spring seat is driving me nuts. I love this car and will never part with it, but it's got some annoying quirks. When it gets cold some piece of metal in the door latch contracts and the car thinks the door is open all the time. I wish everyone could share in the joy that is DING DING DING DING for the duration of my drive. I could pull the warning chime relay but I'd rather fix the latch (can't find a part number for it though). My seat belt also refuses to retract now. The joy of 16 year old cars!
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Jan 14, 2011 02:56
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Splizwarf posted:Now I have a question: I have a B230F in an '89 740GL with the standard mechanical viscous-clutch fan on my waterpump. Why do I have a hooked-up sensor in the temperature sensor hole on my radiator just above the transmission cooler lines? My temp gauge (theoretically I'm pretty sure you're supposed to ALSO have an electric pusher fan up front. I don't mean this in a "are you dumb" kind of way, but: Have you looked behind the grille? If it's missing, you might find that someone decided they like a mechanical fan better or something.
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Jan 14, 2011 06:17
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EvellSnoats posted:Any similar setup for the iphone that anyone has used? At a glance, Rev looks like the iPhone's equivalent of Torque. LloydDobler posted:I'm pretty sure you're supposed to ALSO have an electric pusher fan up front. I don't mean this in a "are you dumb" kind of way, but: Have you looked behind the grille? I do have that pusher fan  but I thought it was part of (and triggered by) the A/C system; it's mounted on the A/C condenser and there's room for an intercooler between the condenser and the radiator. With such a gap and being such a widdly little fan, I hadn't considered it seriously. I should jump it and see if it works, uh, at all. I haven't been getting any overheating but I guess sometimes I have been popping my coolant reserve tank lid. That photo was from driving through some crazy poo poo (east of Boston to west of Philly straight in the teeth of that huge coastal storm just after Christmas). Have a few more. They're all from two days later in the sun, so more melted than I wanted for impressive value. Imagine it all worse, ok?  There's fresh snow on top, and I wish I had a photo from when we got in; my high beams had melted their own little holes in the ice and my lows weren't hot enough to make holes. And that's with clearing them every 50 miles or so. Which didn't matter anyway because the sky was a brilliant pink that night thanks to storm cloud cover + cities. It was pretty surreal driving.  No need to blur this one:  These two posted for salty  value. That's right, my rims are the best rims. Also yes, that is a crate of homemade booze in the back, good eye. It's my roadside emergency kit, I just can't use it in the driver's seat.   I thought the snow really made an interesting improvement to the v50's lines:  I tried hard to capture the feeling but I don't know if it translated to pictures. 
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Jan 14, 2011 14:15
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Snow, you say? V50? Why yes. And this is just from standing on the goddamn parking lot at work for 4 hours WITH the block heater & interior heater plugged in. Somewhat windy that night.
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Jan 15, 2011 01:13
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Update: 1. Car is wired up, except for the resistor pack. What are the downsides of running orange top injectors and not running a resistor pack if I'm with LH2.4? 2. Car cranks 3. A/C deleted. What a pain in the rear end trying to keep that poo poo, I tell ya. Still need to: 1. Swap over B21FT oil cooler adapter plate since the '94 B230FT one won't clear the 3" downpipe 2. Find water lines to cool the 15g turbo (not necessary at this stage, I'll run it without water cooling until the kinks are worked out. whateves~) 3. Fix / weld the A/C delete bracket 4. Find alternator bracket from 2xx B230FT since the B21ft one won't support stock belt sizes with a Nippon Denso 100A 5. Find B230 heater hard pipe 6. Install idle air motor 7. Tighten clutch cable (  )8. Go to Parker Hydraulics and get custom fuel lines made (to adapt to the stock K-Jet turbo fuel filter location instead of running junkyard lines all the way back to the in-tank fuel pump) 9. Eat a bag of dicks because this project is taking way too long with my work schedule Should I keep the stock power steering setup or go for the remote reservoir one on later model 240's? I figure if I also went that route, I could just get a 7/9 series alternator bracket and run the alternator in a 740/940's location. Right? I'll take pics once I'm done doing errands
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Jan 15, 2011 22:30
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Splizwarf posted:I do have that pusher fan I bet if you touch the thermal switch wires together it activates. I believe it's there to help with cooling if you're idling in traffic and stuff like that in addition to the a/c.
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Jan 15, 2011 22:39
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Xovaan posted:Update: No downsides. The resistor pack is there purely to bring the injector impedance/resistance up to a level that the computer can control; orange-tops (assuming that they're 850T injectors) are already high-impedance, so they don't need to be run with a resistor pack.
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Jan 16, 2011 02:37
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82Daion posted:No downsides. The resistor pack is there purely to bring the injector impedance/resistance up to a level that the computer can control; orange-tops (assuming that they're 850T injectors) are already high-impedance, so they don't need to be run with a resistor pack. Thanks for the good news! Just one less thing I have to worry about splicing. Not that it would be hard, but I might as well not gently caress with any more wizardry that goes on in my rainbow spaghetti at this point. My car is already an explosion of plastic yarn.  Do I absolutely have to run my heated o2 wire and fuel injector relay power on Fuse #4 or will any of the same amperage fuse work? What are all of my options here? I don't have enough space on the fuse panel for both wires at #4. 
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Jan 16, 2011 02:45
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From a rallycross I went to. 142 with a carbed B20. He was in my run group so I didn't get any action shots: He's going to try to vintage race it. I hope it happens. e: I feel I'm misrepresenting things if I leave out the fact that that dude in the pic isn't the owner. The owner looks like that character actor that House gave that emasculating rectal exam to. Maybe not the best role to recall, but it's the only one I got right now. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Jan 16, 2011 |
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Jan 16, 2011 04:09
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My 940 decided to start acting up today. After driving 15 minutes or so, I came to a stop at a stoplight, at which point the idle started cycling up and down between 600 rpm (normal) and about 1000 rpm. I was able to keep it going with the accelerator long enough to get into the parking lot that I was aiming to get to, at which point it turned over a few more times and died. At this point, I got it started again and it resumed the cycling idle. I unplugged the MAF sensor, after which the car ran like normal for about 5-8 seconds and then died again. Trying to restart it after that yielded nothing, regardless of whether the MAF sensor was connected or disconnected. Out of frustration, I let it sit for a minute or two and then started it again. It turned over and idled fine, but triggered the CEL. I was able to drive it home at this point. At home, I tried to get the error codes out of the system, but none were stored despite the CEL being lit. I reset the ECU and swapped in a spare MAF sensor, which seemed to fix the issue until I drove it again for 30 minutes and tried to park, at which point it started surging again and died. I let it sit for a few hours while I went out, after which I was able to start it fine and got it home. Once I arrived at home again, the car idled fine for several minutes and the problem didn't recur. Any thoughts? Brickboard suggests a dirty throttle plate, but I've been in the intake tract before and it was clean. I'm also going to try to clean the IAC valve when I get the chance.
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Jan 16, 2011 07:47
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So I bought my first car yesterday- an '08 CPO S40 with 32k miles. It has the base 5-speed geartronic transmission, which seems to accelerate much better in manual mode than it does in automatic mode. For some reason the salesperson at the dealership advised against using it in manual mode, implying that using it would damage the transmission or something- is this true? Is it bad to drive it around in manual mode as long as I'm not redlining it or anything?
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Jan 16, 2011 20:30
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Augmented Dickey posted:So I bought my first car yesterday- an '08 CPO S40 with 32k miles. It has the base 5-speed geartronic transmission, which seems to accelerate much better in manual mode than it does in automatic mode. For some reason the salesperson at the dealership advised against using it in manual mode, implying that using it would damage the transmission or something- is this true? Is it bad to drive it around in manual mode as long as I'm not redlining it or anything? Total BS. Leave it in manual all you want, and redline away, assuming the oil is warm!
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Jan 16, 2011 21:16
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the poi posted:Total BS. Leave it in manual all you want, and redline away, assuming the oil is warm! Exactly what I was hoping to hear- thanks!
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Jan 17, 2011 00:16
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The biggest bitch and a half is wondering why the hell your ignition isn't showing up on the diagnostics box and going back and checking all of your splices and then at the last moment finding out that it's actually because your goldbox EZK is loving dead dead dead But the car has fuel pressure, compression, and spark. Just need those fuel lines made and we are loving GOLDEN Anybody have a suggestion on custom fuel lines? Likely going to be taking my old barbed connections from my k-jet lines and simply running the stock fuel filter location and having them put them on new lines (with the 2.4 fuel rail connectors on the other side of the lines, of course). Should I go braided or rubber? Oh, and protip: There are only four wires necessary to do an LH2.4 swap on a K-Jet car. It is that simple. Just takes patience to pin out the right wires. :o edit: here have some rainbow spaghetti 
Knot My President! fucked around with this message at 10:08 on Jan 17, 2011 |
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Jan 17, 2011 10:02
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Retarded question: Before I changed the oil in my '93 245 I was getting 24-25mpg, but after I changed it (with winter-recommended Mobil 1 5W-30) I'm getting around 22.5mpg. Any ideas on what would cause the decrease? I don't know what oil was running in it before, which was the main reason for changing the oil and filter.
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Jan 17, 2011 16:31
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Winter gas has more ethanol in it which reduces gas mileage. It's probably just coincidental timing.
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Jan 17, 2011 17:21
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Did I mention that I love this loving car? Because I love this loving car.
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Jan 18, 2011 00:41
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Augmented Dickey posted:Did I mention that I love this loving car? Because I love this loving car. That is a nice looking car!
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Jan 18, 2011 03:30
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Xovaan posted:Anybody have a suggestion on custom fuel lines? Likely going to be taking my old barbed connections from my k-jet lines and simply running the stock fuel filter location and having them put them on new lines (with the 2.4 fuel rail connectors on the other side of the lines, of course). Should I go braided or rubber? This is exactly what I did when I installed the B230/2.2 setup in my previously K-Jet wagon. There's no reason to move the fuel filter; that location is much easier to access than on later NA 240s. I used rubber line; braided line is probably overkill for that application. quote:Oh, and protip: There are only four wires necessary to do an LH2.4 swap on a K-Jet car. It is that simple. Just takes patience to pin out the right wires. :o Mind noting what they are? 
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Jan 18, 2011 03:36
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predictive posted:That is a nice looking car! Thanks! It's my first car and I'm coming from a lovely Ranger so pretty much anything is a massive upgrade. I've always wanted either a Volvo or a Saab, since they're nice and classy without being as flashy or ubiquitous as a 3-series or C-class. One thing, the horn doesn't sound when I lock the doors with the keyfob- is that normal? Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Jan 18, 2011 |
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Jan 18, 2011 04:30
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