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Augmented Dickey posted:One thing, the horn doesn't sound when I lock the doors with the keyfob- is that normal? Not even when you press the lock button twice? Nice looking S40. 
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Jan 18, 2011 04:44
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82Daion posted:This is exactly what I did when I installed the B230/2.2 setup in my previously K-Jet wagon. There's no reason to move the fuel filter; that location is much easier to access than on later NA 240s. I used rubber line; braided line is probably overkill for that application. Just got my lines custom made from Parker Hydraulics. Total cost? $25.   Update: Got the last of the parts I needed. 130k mile '94 940 turbo completely factory serviced in the yard, unmolested. Got an official Volvo 016 MAF, goldbox EZK, idle air motor + all the hoses I could possibly want and some other stuff for $160. Oh, and the car idles.  Problem: Car is idling high and almost like clockwork goes between (I'm guessing) 1500 RPM and 800RPM. Could this be a cam timing issue? Or because I'm running orange tops and the computer is trying to compensate?
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Jan 18, 2011 07:58
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That braided line looks gorgeous. I'd love to have something like that in a future project car - never thought about getting it custom-made at a hydraulics outfitter. How dirty is your MAF? I've seen MAFs with leaks (torn o-rings) or excessive filth cause crazy idle issues on Subarus, so I'd imagine it may do a similar thing on Volvos. Much easier to check before starting to tear things apart. e: You said you're guessing that it's idling high - do you not have a tachometer hooked up? You can get a cheap inductive one from Walmart that supports 4- or 5-cylinder engines and just clamp it on a spark plug wire to see what's going on. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 08:10 on Jan 18, 2011 |
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Jan 18, 2011 08:03
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Seat Safety Switch posted:That braided line looks gorgeous. I'd love to have something like that in a future project car - never thought about getting it custom-made at a hydraulics outfitter. MAF is spotless. Probably less than 5k miles if I had to guess. Thing still has the Volvo sticker on it and everything. Tach isn't hooked up yet because I have to pin out the wires for the gauge cluster before I drop it in the car. Could it be the idle air motor? Or a vacuum leak?
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Jan 18, 2011 08:11
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Seems like a defective idle air motor wouldn't cause an oscillating idle like you're describing, so it might be something in the engine control logic that controls the idle air motor. Does it happen only on cold startup or does it also happen once the car has warmed up enough that any of the emissions-mitigation stuff isn't happening? The way it's described sounds almost like the car is intentionally in fast-idle to promote low emissions (preheat the coolant/oil/cat) and then refusing to drop below that fast idle threshold for long. Check to make sure the idle air motor is hooked up properly, I guess, if you've just swapped it on. Might also be worth going at it with a multimeter to see if the input signal to the motor is the same as the original car would send to it. Vacuum leaks are pretty easy to check for as well, so that's worth looking at first. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 08:17 on Jan 18, 2011 |
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Jan 18, 2011 08:15
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I'll check for vacuum leaks but right now the IAC motor and leaks are my top two suspicions. I hope it isn't a timing issue but I don't think it is as this problem developed after a few starts. Thanks for the ideas!  edit: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8HCfLTIBKs Here is a video I just took double-edit: Idle air motor is good. Swapped in a known good one to no avail. MAF is tested and working. O2 sensor is good. Car is not throwing any codes at all. Revs to 2000RPM then back down to 900RPM, as seen in the video. It's consistent enough that I feel the problem could come from the timing being off a notch but honestly I have no idea.  triple-edit: I'm gonna try wiring in the resistor pack and running green tops and seeing if it solves my issues. Anybody have any good information on the best place to make these splices before I dive in? Knot My President! fucked around with this message at 10:23 on Jan 18, 2011 |
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Jan 18, 2011 08:17
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That doesn't sound like an issue that's specifically due to the injectors or timing; if the engine were getting too little or too much fuel, it probably wouldn't continue to run, nor would it do it that consistently. Have you checked your throttle position switch to make sure that it's properly adjusted? That switch tells the computer that the throttle's closed and that it should be idling-if it's badly adjusted or broken, then the computer won't have any idea what state it should be running the car in. Having been at the point you're at with my swap, stop, breathe, and change one thing at a time. Don't go and tear everything out and change it, because then you've increased the number of variables that could be causing your issues. You might fix it this way, but you're more likely to end up frustrating yourself. e: write the sentence good SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 14:45 on Jan 18, 2011 |
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Jan 18, 2011 14:22
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TheJeffers posted:Not even when you press the lock button twice? Nope. It definitely locks and the lights flash, but no beep 
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Jan 18, 2011 14:35
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82Daion posted:That doesn't sound like an issue that's specifically due to the injectors or timing; if the engine were getting too little or too much fuel, it probably wouldn't continue to run, nor would it do it that consistently. Thanks for the info. Here is some more clarification: When the engine is completely cold (the first time we started it up and also the first time we started it up this morning), it idles fine, but then then it does the same problem again. Also: My belts are too long and I don't have my power steering hooked up yet. Could improper belts cause this too? Just throwing it out there. 
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Jan 18, 2011 20:07
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Augmented Dickey posted:Nope. It definitely locks and the lights flash, but no beep AFAIK, the factory alarm doesn't have a beeper installed for that.
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Jan 18, 2011 22:37
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Xovaan posted:Thanks for the info. No problem! Did you check the switch?  When you open the throttle body, there should be a noticeable click from the manifold area, and you might even be able to feel it in the throttle spool. Even if it's adjusted properly, it might not hurt to swap in a different one-that 940 would be the perfect donor. quote:When the engine is completely cold (the first time we started it up and also the first time we started it up this morning), it idles fine, but then then it does the same problem again. Engine temperature shouldn't affect it. My 2.4 240 ('89) idles slower when the engine is dead cold, and speeds up a little once it warms up and settles in, but it never surges. quote:Also: My belts are too long and I don't have my power steering hooked up yet. Could improper belts cause this too? Just throwing it out there. It shouldn't. The accessories do load down the engine, but the computer and IAC compensate for that.
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Jan 19, 2011 01:31
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82Daion posted:No problem! Did you check the switch? TPS is fine and tested and works. Engine idles slow and then speeds up once it's warm and then has this problem. Jeh (Joe) from Turbobricks says it might be the coolant temp sensor since it might be temperature-related. I'm going to the gym and when I get back am gonna swap out the ECU to my '93 240 to make sure it isn't a bad ECU too. Bleh, why are you so goddamned far away, sir. I'm at a loss. 
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Jan 19, 2011 20:22
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i've got a 95 850, and the tape deck has just died. When a tape is put in it just clicks loudly, trying to rewind or fast forward does nothing. I was using a cassette adaptor to listen to my ipod, and so to save myself from local radio I've been trying to get that functionality back. From poking around online and in theis thread there seem to be 2 options. Either just replace the radio entirely and put a modern one in, or tryo to repair the tape deck using new o-rings(the problem is supposedly caused by the failure of a rubber band-esque part). Has anyone had any experience trying to repair the deck?
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Jan 19, 2011 21:10
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I had the chance to work on a 95 850 yesterday and was pretty impressed with the car. It's got me thinking about volvo's now which is probably the last thing I need. I'd want a turbo, 5 speed wagon. How rare are these and which models would I be looking at? Seems the older ones are RWD which would be preferable but would settle for FWD or AWD.
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Jan 19, 2011 22:21
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ECU is fine. Runs great in my 93 once the computers adjust for a non-turbo map. At this point I'm sincerely thinking it's the coolant temp sensor or the o2 sensor since everything else is checking out and working completely fine. The car shouldn't run the way it does with a vacuum leak or a problem with the MAF. For clarification: Completely cold start: car idles at 900RPM. As it warms up, RPM increases to about 1500-2000 (no tach, guessing, but it definitely is increasing), then after about a minute or two starts randomly varying between idle and somewhere between 1500 and 2000 RPM.
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Jan 19, 2011 22:24
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DreamOn13 posted:I'd want a turbo, 5 speed wagon. How rare are these and which models would I be looking at? Seems the older ones are RWD which would be preferable but would settle for FWD or AWD. If you're in the USA They're rare as gently caress in any vintage. The majority of manual Volvos imported were N/A so it's becoming common to swap the tranny over and ignore the CEL you get for "transmission is missing". RWD turbo manuals were mostly mid 80's, they stopped importing them completely around 1990. The 850 (fwd, '93-'97) was never imported in turbo manual as far as I know, and there are a very rare few '98-'00 V70, C70, and S70 turbo manuals around. S60s and V70s in turbo with a manual become increasingly more common starting in 2001, the pricing on those starts at around $4000 now. And the post '98 cars do not take kindly to manual swaps due to the computer controls. If you're in Canada or Europe manuals are common as far as I know.
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Jan 20, 2011 00:23
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They're still pretty uncommon up here in Canada, with only a few hundred 5-speed AWD and a couple thousand regular 5-speeds imported of all years.
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Jan 21, 2011 01:44
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Does anyone have any comments regarding a Scangauge2 and an S60? I'm interested in getting one but I don't know enough about OBD stuff or Volvos to know whether I'd have full functionality or not. I'd also be interested in any opinions people have of them. I'd be getting one to use mainly as a trip computer (instant MPG, average speed, etc.) and for the odd check on things like battery voltage.
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Jan 21, 2011 21:25
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Xovaan posted:ECU is fine. Runs great in my 93 once the computers adjust for a non-turbo map. At this point I'm sincerely thinking it's the coolant temp sensor or the o2 sensor since everything else is checking out and working completely fine. The car shouldn't run the way it does with a vacuum leak or a problem with the MAF. I had a similar issue with my '90 240. Car would start and idle fine, and then it would increase and hunt around 1100-1400 rpm. Turned out that the TPS wasn't properly adjusted. More air than necessary sounds like its getting past your throttle body, but the 'where, why and how' need to be figured out.
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Jan 21, 2011 21:44
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Just bought this- a C30 knob should be interchangeable with an S40 knob, right? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300499294954&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_2672wt_1167
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Jan 22, 2011 04:55
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Depends on the generation of s40. What year is it? That should fit an s40 from 2005 to present.
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Jan 22, 2011 19:05
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Splizwarf posted:Depends on the generation of s40. What year is it? That should fit an s40 from 2005 to present. It's an 08, so I'm thinking it should be the same generation as an 07 C30.
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Jan 22, 2011 20:24
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Well one thing after another today. Started trying to replace my o2 sensors on my 99 v70 xc. Amazon apparently gives the wrong number for the precat sensor. I think what I need is a bosch 15667. The one they sent did not have enough wires. Anyone know for sure? The old o2 sensors came out pretty well once I decided I would take a chance and just cut the wires. It is real tight where both are and you really have to think about how to attack each. Best tool for the post cat o2 sensor is the great neck o2 sensor remover. The lisle that amazon sold me was useless. Autozone did gig the poo poo out of me on it, but it worked like butter on the post cat sensor. The pre cat sensor is easily handled with a regular 17mm wrench. I had soaked each with pb blaster over night. The hard part is getting them out of the electrical connections. I got the precat out, which is when I noticed I had the wrong replacement. The postcat electrical connection still waits for me to find the perfect angle. It looks like someone stuffed some teflon tape around it and it is in there too tight. Then I changed out the front right strut. That went okay, but I did not know there are two nuts on the top of the strut. I wondered why I got the star nut tool because you initially don't see the star nut, it is below a regular locking nut that I stupidly cut off with a cutoff tool, leaving me with having to jerry rig the strut nut removal tool. All in all that did not take too long though. Had to make a trip to Autozone for a big rear end 1.25 wrench to get the inner tie rod out. Which I did. Every other forum suggested a pipe wrench, but I couldn't get that or channel locks to get a good enough grip. I also picked up some torx sockets to try again to get the sway arm bar link off. I see a cut off wheel in its future as well. Trying to use a torx bit screwdriver didn't work as a counter hold and I don't hold a lot of hope the 1/4 drive socket will provide enough leverage either. The right control arm. Three bolts came off easy. There is a fourth that is located in a place where you cannot get a socket in due to the oil pan. Not wanting to drop the pan, I used a combination of an offset 12 pt wrench to break it and a ratcheting box wrench to pull it out, slowly as I only got a few degrees motion. The bolt and the ratcheting box wrench are still there and will remain until the new control arm gets mounted. You cannot get the bolt out so that is one that won't get replaced. Hopefully it is okay. Here's to hoping tomorrow will go better. The first side is usually the one to learn on and I don't think there is anyway the driver's side could be more of a PIA than the passenger's. Anyone with any tips or tricks, please weigh in. I spent about $120 in extra tools today, but hey, I like tools.
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Jan 23, 2011 02:19
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EvellSnoats posted:Anyone with any tips or tricks, please weigh in. I spent about $120 in extra tools today, but hey, I like tools. That is the tip. The right tool will usually shave minutes but occasionally hours off a job.
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Jan 23, 2011 06:35
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Feel like I'm late to the party but wanted to chime in with my 1998 S70 T5 Automatic. I just picked it up from Texas in August. I live in the Chicagoland area so it was quite a drive. These cars are pretty rare in my region so it was a compromise. I used to drive a 1996 850 GLT. It developed a rod knock at 232k miles and wasn't worth the repair at that point. I had already totaled the title because of a collision which was deemed not my fault. I was able to fix the car with the insurance money but it was never the same. The S70 T5 is a nice upgrade and only has 147k miles as it stands today. I found it on http://www.volvospeed.com in July and bought the car in August. Here is a link to the ad for it: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/135963-4-sale-very-nice-black-on-black-1998-s70-t5140k/ . It does have a few issues here and there but I haven't seen a Volvo that doesn't. Mechanically, it runs very well. When I got it I had the timing belt/waterpump/tensioner/tensioner pulley, motor mounts, spark plugs, wires, cap/rotor, fuel filter, misc hoses, and the TCV (then I got an MBC) replaced. I checked the IAC and the PTC and it's all clear. I also had the TPS replaced. I did most of the simple stuff but did go to a shop for the more techinical jobs. Put some OEM rims with winter tires on for now until Spring. Planning on getting a tune to keep my AFR in check. The MBC works well but I think it could be better with a tune. Also looking into getting an exhaust together. Still winter though so I'm just blue-skying at the moment. No good personal pics worth sharing for now but once summer comes around I might take some decent photos of it.
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Jan 23, 2011 09:57
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EvellSnoats posted:Here's to hoping tomorrow will go better. Famous last words. THREE of four bolts on the driver's side? Completely inaccessible without lifting the engine an inch. Fortunately on the driver's side there was a pad on the block that seems tailor made for this, unfortunately, my jack did not go that high. Broke out the bottle jack, put it on the arm of the floor jack and got it. Pretty sure that wasn't in the safety manual, but figured my new 6 ton floor jacks would catch it should something bad happen. For anyone replacing control arms on these cars, strip everything out first except for the knuckle. Each time I tried a combination thinking I would save time I ended up just getting the control arm where it almost lined up. Having the new strut assembly in looks like it would give something to help guide the arm in, it does not. Also realized I was short the inner tie rod arm boots. Naturally Autozone only had one over priced boot, so car is still out of service. 14 hours in so far and I still have half a side to go. I hope the rear nivomats are easier, although now that I know how to do it I think the rest of the driver's side front (finish stripping off sway bar link and reinstall everything) should go faster. This thing sure better ride nice. This was twice as hard to do as with my BMW. Also, WTF is up with Volvo making you use almost every socket in your collection. I think I used every size from 10mm up to 21 mm except the 11 and 12 and 20. On my 540i I think I used 3.
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Jan 24, 2011 13:58
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Anjow posted:Does anyone have any comments regarding a Scangauge2 and an S60? I'm interested in getting one but I don't know enough about OBD stuff or Volvos to know whether I'd have full functionality or not. I'd also be interested in any opinions people have of them. There's a guy on SwedeSpeed that totally whores out his picture of his scangauge mounted to his steering column in every single 'post your guages' thread. He does it so often it's something of a joke. Go to SS and look for any guage thread and there's no mistaking his, then you can PM him with any questions. I'm pretty sure it'll show horsepower but not boost.
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Jan 24, 2011 22:50
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netwerk23 posted:There's a guy on SwedeSpeed that totally whores out his picture of his scangauge mounted to his steering column in every single 'post your guages' thread. He does it so often it's something of a joke. Go to SS and look for any guage thread and there's no mistaking his, then you can PM him with any questions. I'm pretty sure it'll show horsepower but not boost. How is there that many post your gauges thread?
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Jan 25, 2011 01:30
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kimbo305 posted:How is there that many post your gauges thread? You're hell of spoiled by SA's megathread rules, that's how. The rest of the internet is terrible.
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Jan 25, 2011 02:16
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Splizwarf posted:You're hell of spoiled by SA's megathread rules, that's how. The rest of the internet is terrible. What, you find it easier to just answer people's questions instead of having 400 closed threads with 5 replies each by 5 regulars all saying "USE THE SEARCH FOR YOUR SPECIALIZED UNIQUE QUESTION  " ?
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Jan 25, 2011 02:23
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EvellSnoats posted:WTF is up with Volvo making you use almost every socket in your collection. I think I used every size from 10mm up to 21 mm except the 11 and 12 and 20. On my 540i I think I used 3. This is because instead of providing a torque spec for every single bolt location, Volvo provides torque spec for special cases, and otherwise provides torque specs for each type of bolt. What this means is they met the specs they needed for each location with the bolt for that range instead of using a couple bolts at a variety of torques. So it sucks to have to swap sockets more often but the upshot is you can just use a bolt chart for 98% of your torque specs. Also, the oil pan plug is the devil and wants you to go gently caress yourself (this may be Redblock-specific); every time I buy a new socket that might be the right size, it isn't, and then I use vicegrips again.
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Jan 25, 2011 02:41
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Ether Frenzy posted:What, you find it easier to just answer people's questions instead of having 400 closed threads with 5 replies each by 5 regulars all saying "USE THE SEARCH FOR YOUR SPECIALIZED UNIQUE QUESTION
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Jan 25, 2011 02:56
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I'm looking for a new used car, and there's a pretty neat '65 Volvo on Craigslist near me. If I want something for the short-term (probably under 6 months) for mostly short trips (under 15 miles) with the occasional longer trip (3-400 miles round trip about once a month) would an older Volvo be fairly simple to maintain and repair, or am I looking at tricky mechanical rare parts hell?
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Jan 25, 2011 03:10
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Splizwarf posted:This is because instead of providing a torque spec for every single bolt location, Volvo provides torque spec for special cases, and otherwise provides torque specs for each type of bolt. What this means is they met the specs they needed for each location with the bolt for that range instead of using a couple bolts at a variety of torques. Interesting, that makes sense. Can you point me to a chart someplace? Of course in looking at your average Volvo front suspension rebuild I don't know how one would get a torque wrench in most of the places they put nuts and bolts.
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Jan 25, 2011 03:11
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idiotsavant posted:I'm looking for a new used car, and there's a pretty neat '65 Volvo on Craigslist near me. If I want something for the short-term (probably under 6 months) for mostly short trips (under 15 miles) with the occasional longer trip (3-400 miles round trip about once a month) would an older Volvo be fairly simple to maintain and repair, or am I looking at tricky mechanical rare parts hell? If you want something that old, buy the Volvo and rent a car with unlimited mileage for longer trips.
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Jan 25, 2011 03:15
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I'll dig it out, I found it during the v40 rebuild. It's either in VADIS or the Greenbooks, probably VADIS. For places where you can't get a wrench into, that's actually supposed to be where being an all-day professional mechanic comes in. The documentation in the Greenbooks basically says "torque it to about this, you torque stuff to spec all the time so your instinct will be close enough in these tight spots". The advice for the home mechanic is to set up a range of nuts and bolts and torque a mirror of the one on the car to spec on the bench, then mimic that "feeling of tension" on the car. Or to paraphrase one of my teachers: "Turn the wrench until you hear an audible 'click!' come out of your mouth." idiotsavant posted:I'm looking for a new used car, and there's a pretty neat '65 Volvo on Craigslist near me. If I want something for the short-term (probably under 6 months) for mostly short trips (under 15 miles) with the occasional longer trip (3-400 miles round trip about once a month) would an older Volvo be fairly simple to maintain and repair, or am I looking at tricky mechanical rare parts hell? I think this is too old for any car to be a reliable daily driver. As for the rest of your question, paging LloydDobler.
Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 12:35 on Jan 25, 2011 |
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Jan 25, 2011 03:23
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idiotsavant posted:I'm looking for a new used car, and there's a pretty neat '65 Volvo on Craigslist near me. If I want something for the short-term (probably under 6 months) for mostly short trips (under 15 miles) with the occasional longer trip (3-400 miles round trip about once a month) would an older Volvo be fairly simple to maintain and repair, or am I looking at tricky mechanical rare parts hell? It of course depends entirely on the condition of the car in question. A 1966 Volvo currently holds the world record for non-commercial miles driven, they're very reliable cars and very simple to work on, as long as it's in good condition to begin with. If you have worn out carbs you're in for tuning hell. The parts are all getting expensive, but everything you need to keep it running is still available. What model, what mileage, and what kind of price range?
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Jan 25, 2011 08:05
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Splizwarf posted:You're hell of spoiled by SA's megathread rules, that's how. The rest of the internet is terrible. Well to be fair, SS isn't that bad. They have decent moderation, but the community isn't as large as SA so it doesn't need as much control. There aren't piles and piles of 'gauge' threads but they do come up a few times a month. I remembered that guy's username, it's stealthys60r I think.
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Jan 25, 2011 18:07
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LloydDobler posted:It of course depends entirely on the condition of the car in question. A 1966 Volvo currently holds the world record for non-commercial miles driven, they're very reliable cars and very simple to work on, as long as it's in good condition to begin with. If you have worn out carbs you're in for tuning hell. The parts are all getting expensive, but everything you need to keep it running is still available. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/2167351327.html Price seems right as long as it isn't a mechanical disaster, although the passenger floorboard issue seems iffy.
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Jan 25, 2011 23:28
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Yeah, it looks like a $1250 car, if he's telling the truth about the engine rebuild and the carbs are in ok shape then it'll easily run good for your needs. You'll just have to learn to set points or put in an electronic ignition. The only real bummer is it's a 4 door, which lowers its resale in the collectible market. But at least it's not an automatic.
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Jan 26, 2011 00:13
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