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BLOWTAKKKS posted:I have two samsung f3 1 tb drives. I bought them at different times for different purposes, but now i want to put both in the same computer. Would it be a bad idea to put them into raid 0? Apparently there is a samsung f3r intended for raid, and i read somewhere that the regular f3 is not as reliable in raid. Do RAID 1 if you have to RAID them. Protects what's on them from one drive failure, and it's pretty much the only sane way to use a pair of lying-around drives in RAID. The big differences between the F3 and F3R are a RAID-specific error-handling algorithm TLER (read: don't handle errors yourself, let the controller take it), tighter adherence to rated seek times, and a 5-year warranty instead of a 3-year warranty (with the assumption that build quality is a bit higher so they don't have to pay out the nose with that). Compared to the F3, the F3R is much less likely to drop out for random reasons. TLER is the biggest factor: a non-TLER drive will spend up to two minutes trying to fix a read error when it comes across a bad sector, if it can. More than about ten seconds of unresponsiveness causes a RAID controller to give up on a drive, drop it, and ask for a replacement. TLER limits recovery attempts to 8 seconds. The tighter seek times can improve random read/write performance (though don't kid yourself, it'll be crappier than a single drive in pretty much any RAID but RAID 1).
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Jan 17, 2011 19:14
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Triikan posted:Before you do anything, remove the motherboard, ram, and videocard from the case, then return it to it. Reseating everything solves about 3/4ths of all computer problems I have. I was just about to reseat everything, but luckily I double checked one of the power cables first, and it was simply loose. Must have came out when I moved my case a few days ago. Thanks! 
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Jan 17, 2011 21:33
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I'm using my laptop as a kind of game machine for emulation and otherwise old game, having it just plugged into my TV via HDMI. The problem is, when it is running at 640x480, as many of the games are, the top, bottom and sides of the image are cut off by about 10 pixels on each side. The laptop has a geforce 8400m, and the nvidia control panel has options for letting the TV handle scaling, or the video card, but setting it either way doesn't solve the problem. I can't seem to find any more relevant controls in the nvidia control panel either. Does anyone know what to do?
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Jan 18, 2011 06:02
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Check the TV for a PC mode, 1:1 mode, or an option to turn off overscan. Overscanning is enabled by default on TVs due to legacy effects of CRT TVs and NTSC broadcasting standards. For regular TV, that 10 pixels lost is where stuff like closed caption information exists in the signal.
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Jan 18, 2011 06:12
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Factory Factory posted:Check the TV for a PC mode, 1:1 mode, or an option to turn off overscan. Overscanning is enabled by default on TVs due to legacy effects of CRT TVs and NTSC broadcasting standards. For regular TV, that 10 pixels lost is where stuff like closed caption information exists in the signal. edit: hooooold on a second, something screwy is going on here. If I go into the nvidia control panel, switch from "use my display's built-in scaling to "use NVIDIA scaling", hit apply, then go out of the menu and come back, it is set to "use my display's built-in scaling" again. edit: reading up, it appears that these drivers don't support a whole lot of things that they should when used in windows 7. The older ones did and then something happened and it was removed. Buncha stupid jerkface losers. Samurai Sanders fucked around with this message at 08:48 on Jan 18, 2011 |
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Jan 18, 2011 06:14
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I would like to know what part specifically goes bad in switching power supplies. I'm assuming there is some commonly bad part because of the sound they make. Or, maybe that's just coincidental. Also, why does it make the squealing sound when it's bad? I would like to give fixing one a whirl. I have about 10 laying around that are no good, and I'm bored.
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Jan 18, 2011 09:59
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I have a brand new system (3 months old in moderate usage, win 7, intel i3, 4gb ddr3, WD 500gb) that has some data corruption issues. System files are basically hosed - everything boots and runs sort of ok, but there's weird stuff going on like basically windows installer is broken, network connections don't hold for longer than 10 seconds, just strange stuff. SFC confirms lots of errors, and can't fix them. I just want to make sure my methodology is sound in diagnosing problems - I feel like some of the tools I'm using might be a bit dated. Based on experience, I figure it's most likely a RAM or HD problem, but who knows, maybe a CPU? So, I plan on a. getting WD Diag and making sure the harddrive isn't defective, b. using memtest or maybe just windows memory diagnostic to do a 4-6 hour test on the ram. (this is one thing I'm unsure about, does memtest 86 do 4GB? I think I remember it not handling 8GB, which was frustrating - are there better diagnostics?) and c. ? I don't know how I'd test the CPU - I know there are stress tests that check for overclocked builds? but I also feel like a defective CPU wouldn't POST and install windows fine, and then slowly corrupt the poo poo out of everything. Most CPU failures I've seen have failed to boot an OS. thoughts? I feel silly asking this basic of a question, but I also haven't asked anyone how to fix a computer in like 10 years, so I guess I'm just looking for some strange e-validation.
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Jan 18, 2011 16:10
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Not sure if this might warrant its own thread. I'm looking for a very specific dell internal 6 pin power cable/adapter. Here's a pic of it. Its the one in the lower right corner labelled DELL P6: http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/cputopiaonline/mp3atx40.jpg The one on my Precision 670 power supply only has 5 of the 6 conductors in use (3 color, 2 black). I'm assuming that the 3 colors mean different voltages but I haven't put a meter to it yet. I want to adapt it to pcie 6 pin power. I'm not sure if Dell ever made an adapter for that purpose but I can't seem to find anything that would go into it online. The connector I have is the one pictured so I need the male version of it to do a custom job but I can't find it. Edit: Well it looks like the 6th pin is supposed to be empty and it does carry 3 different voltages: http://media.photobucket.com/image/dell%206%20pin%20power%20harness/wrench97/Dell6pin.jpg Edit2: Well I found the connectors at my local electronics shop so I'm good on building my own adapter but I still have no clue what these connectors are called. https://www.philmore-datak.com/mc/Page%2032.pdf Shaocaholica fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Jan 18, 2011 |
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Jan 18, 2011 16:55
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mindphlux posted:I have a brand new system (3 months old in moderate usage, win 7, intel i3, 4gb ddr3, WD 500gb) that has some data corruption issues. System files are basically hosed - everything boots and runs sort of ok, but there's weird stuff going on like basically windows installer is broken, network connections don't hold for longer than 10 seconds, just strange stuff. SFC confirms lots of errors, and can't fix them. Firstly, on memtest86's website: quote:The free download of Memtest86 3.5a is available (see the "Free Download link to the left). Version 3.5a corrects a bug in 3.5 that prevented testing more than 4Gb of memory. Version 3.5a now works with up to 64Gb of memory. You can check and make sure the hard drive isn't failing. WD's diag will work. After that you should scan for viruses, but I have a better suggestion below. In general, if you can eliminate what is causing a problem with very broad troubleshooting, it becomes easier to pinpoint what to test instead of testing everything blindly. For instance, the first thing I always try to do is figure out if it's a software issue, or a hardware issue. In this case the easiest thing you can do is boot from a live CD of some sort, Ubuntu would work well. If you can use your computer with no issues, it's either a failing hard drive or a software issue. Eliminate the possibility that the hard drive is failing and you have your answer: software!
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Jan 18, 2011 22:56
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What the gently caress card is this?  Huge ISA card with one 9 pin serial and 3 game/MIDI ports 
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Jan 19, 2011 00:23
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Bob Morales posted:What the gently caress card is this? Looks like a plain old serial card to me.
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Jan 19, 2011 00:30
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arroze posted:Looks like a plain old serial card to me. What the gently caress kind of serial card has 15-pin ports?
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Jan 19, 2011 00:33
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oops, wrong thread
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Jan 19, 2011 00:47
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Not quite sure this is the right place, but: My lab's PI (my boss) is looking to buy some computers for our lab for us to use. We just picked up one of these, but it looks like there's a limit of 1 per customer: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883147368 So any reccs on what we should get instead? I'm guessing he wants similar specs and price point, no monitors though (already bought the Asus 23.6" ones on sale at newegg, I'm browsing through now looking for a deal...) I don't really know where else to look other than newegg - we can't order from places that charge sales tax so dell.com is out and I think lenovo.com as well. tokki g fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Jan 19, 2011 |
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Jan 19, 2011 00:49
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Bob Morales posted:What the gently caress kind of serial card has 15-pin ports? I found this page for you: http://superuser.com/questions/59564/15-pin-serial-cable The DB-15 ports were used for game/thick ethernet.
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Jan 19, 2011 01:53
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Is there any way to do point scaling on display output with nvidia's latest drivers (Quadro FX570m)? I basically want each pixel to be rendered as a 2x2 pixel block with no blurry edges. I've got a 1920x1200 15" laptop display and the gfx can't run most games at that native res.
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Jan 19, 2011 01:55
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I'm trying to replace the inverter on my Vostro 1500 and Dell, being assholes, glued the drat thing into the bracket on the LCD, making it virtually impossible to remove. Has anyone else dealt with this and might be able to give me some pointers?
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Jan 19, 2011 02:06
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Ghostpilot posted:I'm trying to replace the inverter on my Vostro 1500 and Dell, being assholes, glued the drat thing into the bracket on the LCD, making it virtually impossible to remove. Has anyone else dealt with this and might be able to give me some pointers? Hair dryer to melt the glue off.
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Jan 19, 2011 02:19
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arroze posted:I found this page for you: MIDI/game or AUI (network), and old Macs used them for video. Turns out it some custom card that just uses 15 pin ports, and it speaks to a CNC controller.
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Jan 19, 2011 03:32
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Shaocaholica posted:Is there any way to do point scaling on display output with nvidia's latest drivers (Quadro FX570m)? I basically want each pixel to be rendered as a 2x2 pixel block with no blurry edges. I've got a 1920x1200 15" laptop display and the gfx can't run most games at that native res. Problem is, you are trying to game on a quadro.
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Jan 19, 2011 03:54
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enotnert posted:Problem is, you are trying to game on a quadro. So? Its basically an 8600M-GT.
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Jan 19, 2011 06:47
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Is it possible that my monitor may not be capable of handling a GPU like the Radeon HD 5770? I don't know the exact type (its a westinghouse I believe) but generally is it possible?
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Jan 19, 2011 15:33
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Dirty Job posted:Is it possible that my monitor may not be capable of handling a GPU like the Radeon HD 5770? I don't know the exact type (its a westinghouse I believe) but generally is it possible? Nope, but maybe the refresh rate is set too high if the problem is that you can't see anything. If you have a choice between 60 and 59 Hz, try 59 Hz.
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Jan 19, 2011 15:37
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Dirty Job posted:Is it possible that my monitor may not be capable of handling a GPU like the Radeon HD 5770? I don't know the exact type (its a westinghouse I believe) but generally is it possible? The only other thing your monitor won't be able to handle is if your resolution is set too high. If the monitor's not connecting properly, put on another tv/monitor, drop the resolution and try it again.
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Jan 19, 2011 15:37
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Shaocaholica posted:So? Its basically an 8600M-GT. Quadros are not meant for gaming. I can go downstairs right now to a guys workstation who has a bad expensive rear end top o the line quadro he got for CUDA testing. I can them slap WoW on the workstation and goto play on his big old 1920x1200 monitor. It will still look better on my mbp with a little 320m
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Jan 19, 2011 21:29
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BorderPatrol posted:Hair dryer to melt the glue off. Looks like the issue's worse than I thought: the inverter is one with the LCD. I really had to dig to find a mention of this yet somehow I can find the inverter for sale separately.  Anyway, I tried looking all over but couldn't find any info on this particular issue: my Dell Vostro 1500 comes up with a solid Scroll & Numlock with a flashing Caps Lock. Might anyone know what this particular code means?
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Jan 19, 2011 22:18
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Ghostpilot posted:Anyway, I tried looking all over but couldn't find any info on this particular issue: my Dell Vostro 1500 comes up with a solid Scroll & Numlock with a flashing Caps Lock. Might anyone know what this particular code means? Memory error. If you just upgraded RAM, pull the battery, wait a few seconds, reinstall it, and try to boot the system again. Otherwise, do the standard RAM troubleshooting dance: reseat the modules, try each one individually, throw a known good one in there if you've got it. Pull the battery between troubleshooting attempts, because a lot of systems will give you problems if you do anything to change the RAM while they've still got standby power.
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Jan 19, 2011 22:45
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Huh, kinda surprising since I didn't mess with the memory, but I'll mess around with it. Thanks! Edit: It was indeed the memory after all, it must've shifted slightly with what I was doing yesterday (I shouldn't have even been near it yesterday with the  headspace I was in). Now I can go back to focusing on the lcd / inverter issue.
Ghostpilot fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Jan 19, 2011 |
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Jan 19, 2011 23:08
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Buying a Synology NAS (Either a DS210J or DS211J). Looking for two 2TB drives to be run in RAID 1 in said NAS; Samsung F4, yea/nay?
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Jan 20, 2011 16:05
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So I just bought my first mobo and processor as parts instead of pre-built. I always here people talking about heatsinks and thermo-glue and I was just wondering if those came with processor. I'm going to pick the parts up in about 1 hour and I want to know if I have to stop off at a computer store to pick up the glue.
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Jan 20, 2011 16:58
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Crell posted:So I just bought my first mobo and processor as parts instead of pre-built. I always here people talking about heatsinks and thermo-glue and I was just wondering if those came with processor. I'm going to pick the parts up in about 1 hour and I want to know if I have to stop off at a computer store to pick up the glue. If you bought a retail boxed CPU, it will come with a heatsink that's adequate for the processor (although it's not great if you want silence or overclocking headroom). If you bought an OEM CPU, it'll just be the bare part, and you'll have to buy a heatsink yourself. Assuming you bought a retail processor, and you're using the stock heatsink, the heatsink will come with the proper amount of thermal material preapplied to the base. Just put the heatsink straight on the processor, and follow the directions in the little manual booklet to fasten the heatsink to the motherboard. You should know that thermal goop is a one-use thing; if you put enough pressure on it to squeeze it into place, then take it off, you'll need to clean and reapply new material. If you're using an aftermarket heatsink, or are reapplying thermal material onto a boxed heatsink, you don't need much. If the heatsink has a flat base, a little sphere in the middle of the CPU heatspreader like this is enough; it'll squish out as you put the heatsink on. If you're using a heatpipe direct-contact heatsink, do this. If you do go to an electronics store, don't ask for "thermal glue." You want thermal grease. Thermal adhesive does the same thing, but you'll have a CPU permanently fixed to your heatsink and motherboard once it cures.
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Jan 20, 2011 17:16
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What would cause RAM to randomly give errors in memtest? I have a computer that I know has something wrong with it - data keeps getting corrupted. I suspect memory. I have 4GB DDR3, voltage is right, speed is right. I've done 4 hours testing both modules, they came up clean. 2 hours on just one, came up clean, two hours on the other, came up clean. Put them both in, ran 4 hours, clean, and I decided to go to sleep. I wake up and the machine is off (?), I turn it back on, it boots into memtest, and tons of errors are going off. I pull the ram out, 2 hours again on just one module comes up no errors, 2hours on other module no errors - I'm about to put them both in together again, but seriously WTF. I just know something strange is going on.
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Jan 20, 2011 19:00
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mindphlux posted:What would cause RAM to randomly give errors in memtest? Bad MB? Is it just the second slot that's causing the problems?
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Jan 20, 2011 19:08
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Bob Morales posted:Bad MB? Is it just the second slot that's causing the problems? I don't know how to narrow it down to the motherboard really. Originally the RAM was on slot 2/4 when data corruption was found. I ran tests on the RAM as it sat in 2/4 with no errors. Then I moved it to 1/2 and ran the rests above (i.e. 1, 2, 1/2). The errors happened with the ram in 1/2. I don't think any particular slot is the problem really, it seems like the symptoms would have been more pronounced if it was? In any case I'm almost through a pass again with the RAM in 1/2 and still no errors. rargh
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Jan 20, 2011 19:14
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mindphlux posted:I don't know how to narrow it down to the motherboard really. Originally the RAM was on slot 2/4 when data corruption was found. I ran tests on the RAM as it sat in 2/4 with no errors. Then I moved it to 1/2 and ran the rests above (i.e. 1, 2, 1/2). The errors happened with the ram in 1/2. If you have it, i highly recommend a set of ram from another computer that isn't having memory failures. Also, in order to eliminate the possibility of power shortage problems, i'd probably remove unnecessary devices while attempting to narrow your problem down. Lastly, it's highly unlikely that all your memory dimms went bad at the same time, so if you're encountering memory problems with all the dimms whether plugged in together or one at a time, i'd actually point to the motherboard as the culprit. Or, as I eluded to maybe the power supply is barely able to keep up with the power demands.
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Jan 20, 2011 19:25
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Okay, here's a really dumb question (it might be in the wrong forum unless there's some electricity master posting here). I have an 850W power supply. I am plugging it into an Italian power outlet connected to a Schuko surge protector (so I can get grounding and not blow up my computer). However, this is all running at 220V/230V or whatever my electricity is. My PSU came with an American 3 prong(NEMA 5-15P) 16AWG cable and the end of it says 13A 125V (which I don't care about since everything else I have is plugged in with these kind of cables, despite them saying 125V). I will plug it into a NEMA 5-15P to Schuko adapter, which goes into the surge protector. Now, my problem is that the adapter says 125V 15A on the US plug side and 16A 250V on the Schuko side. Now, I plug all my dual voltage electronics straight into the wall with adapters because they can handle it. However, my PC will draw more power than everything else. I'm just afraid that the 125V/15A adapter won't cut it. I mean, why does it even say 125V on one side when up to 250V can be going through it? Here's the unsafe-sounding chain: Italian 3 - prong wall socket> Italian to Schuko adapter > Schuko Surge Protector > Schuko to NEMA 5 adapter > NEMA 5 power cable > my PC And I would like to order a Schuko power cable that can carry enough amps to cut out the adapter and plug it right into my power supply, too bad Amazon refuses to ship one to me! edit: loving hell, the Italian to Schuko adapter says 1500W on it. I'm going to blow myself up. BLOWTAKKKS fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Jan 20, 2011 |
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Jan 20, 2011 20:35
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I got my MSI HAWK GTX 460 today and while its an excellent card, the fans rev up really loud when gaming even though the card isn't getting that hot. Do I just install afterburner and manually throttle the fan or is that a bad idea?
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Jan 20, 2011 22:41
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spasticColon posted:I got my MSI HAWK GTX 460 today and while its an excellent card, the fans rev up really loud when gaming even though the card isn't getting that hot. Do I just install afterburner and manually throttle the fan or is that a bad idea? No shouldn't hurt. just install CPUID and let it monitor while you play games for 30 mins. adjust throttling, and watch your temperatures
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Jan 20, 2011 22:58
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BLOWTAKKKS posted:Here's the unsafe-sounding chain: This is all perfectly safe, as long as you don't have an adapter chain falling apart under its own weight or something. Supply voltage doesn't matter all that much; the insulation can handle way more than standard voltage, so a power surge doesn't make cables blow up. Amps are a bigger concern, because amps running through a cable mean heat. However, the weakest link there is the power cable, and it'll be handling roughly twice as many amps if you're running on American power. You're safe.
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Jan 20, 2011 23:18
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mindphlux posted:No shouldn't hurt. just install CPUID and let it monitor while you play games for 30 mins. adjust throttling, and watch your temperatures I throttled it as low as it will go which is 40 percent and 30 minutes of Heaven benchmark yields ~65C under load. Is that acceptable for a GTX 460?
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Jan 20, 2011 23:34
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