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Use the map for your region/fuel. There's a 93 map, a 91 map, and a 91 AZ/CA/NV map because the fuel out here sucks even more. Then you can get a downpipe and flash stage 2 later on. Then if you do more mods you can have the car tuned on a dyno and that map will also be stored on the accessport. NinjaTech posted:Well I found out on my 400mi trip this weekend why my clutch wasn't disengaging properly. The loving clutch fork is cracked and doesn't seem to be attached to the pivot ball anymore. My clutch isn't totally gone but I was hoping I wouldn't have the do this job this soon. now I have to wait until tuesday to call subaru about a fork on top of it. exedy has different part numbers for your clutch vs a hydraulic push type.
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Jan 17, 2011 20:30
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jamal posted:I see that happen pretty frequently. You should pull the transmission to do it.
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Jan 17, 2011 20:31
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Question for you guys - was at a track day at Fontana yesterday and a friend of mine was there as well. He had a ~year old STI (stock except for SPT springs) that's had a total of three shocks replaced on two different occasions, the last being about a week ago. As were about to head out for our third run session, he called me over and there were streams of oil coming from the left rear and right rear shocks. Since potentially spewing oil on a track is a bad thing and he didn't want to risk getting sideways at 130mph on the banking due to hosed up shocks, that pretty much ended his day right there. The shocks are going to be replaced by the dealer under warranty (for a grand total of five replaced since new haha), but do you guys have any idea why a) these shocks would fail after just 400 miles and b) why the car is eating so many shocks? Just seems a little preposterous
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Jan 17, 2011 21:29
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I'd be surprised if the dealership replaced them for free given that he was running SPT springs...
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Jan 17, 2011 21:38
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jamal posted:I see that happen pretty frequently. You should pull the transmission to do it. Is there any sort of TSB on that failure? It seems to be pretty common so I'm wondering if I can get a free fork out of it. Pulling the transmission looks like more of a bitch than pulling the engine. Though I'd have to get one of my friends to bring their hoist over. Seat Safety Switch posted:I can't figure out from the pictures how you take a look at the clutch fork. Where should I look to make sure mine is intact? I just pulled the dust boot off and snapped a pic with my iphone. I think it's more of a problem with the older cable clutches.
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Jan 17, 2011 22:15
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Admirable Gusto posted:Question for you guys - was at a track day at Fontana yesterday and a friend of mine was there as well. He had a ~year old STI (stock except for SPT springs) that's had a total of three shocks replaced on two different occasions, the last being about a week ago. Those are pretty good struts so having oil coming out of them is really unusual. Generally they'll just start clunking due to stiction between the inverted strut insert and housing. My thought is that maybe they put in standard WRX struts, which won't last long on sti springs, let alone stiffer and lower aftermarket sti springs. I have the stock struts re-valved by a company called feal suspension. they'll also add grease fittings to the rear struts to eliminate clunks
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Jan 17, 2011 23:26
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This is what my dealership just e-mailed me on buying a new 2011 WRX STI: Black 4 door sedan MSRP $34,720 Package 3A $307.00 ( auto dimming rearview mirror w/ compass and Shock sensor alarm upgrade Sirius Sat Radio $427.00 Black Duracon Shift Knob $91.00 TOTAL STICKER AS EQUIPPED $35,545 Invoice $32,894.00 Package 3A $200.00 Sat Radio $320.00 Shift Knob $59.00 Invoice Price $33,473 $500 Profit $33,973 SALE PRICE Isn't this a pretty reasonable deal? The car is also going to be at an autoshow for a few days before I pick it up - do you think having so many people sitting it, twisting knobs and roughing up the upholstery would be a way to get some free floor mats in compensation or is that why the price is at $34k despite the accessories? And to just confirm, I should get an Accessport and do a stage 1 tune on it right when it rolls off the lot correct? Catsoup fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Jan 18, 2011 |
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Jan 17, 2011 23:50
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There's no way in hell I would pay over invoice for a car that sat out in public at an auto show. For the record, I payed $100 over invoice on a regular WRX premium that I ordered that basically came directly off the truck into my hands. The MSRP and the invoice prices listed are accurate for the car priced with those options. That includes the $725 destination fee. The problem is, people are getting better than those prices on cars that don't have a few hundred asses dragged through them ahead of time. I say offer them $1k under invoice for the devaluation of being at the auto show with the right to refusal on inspection if there are cosmetic blemishes sustained from the show. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Jan 18, 2011 |
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Jan 18, 2011 00:14
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Catsoup posted:
Going to agree with Bull here. No way would I pay 500 over invoice if the car is essentially already used. If it was fresh off the truck and I got it before they even put the front plate on I'd pay $500 over invoice. But who knows what's going to happen to the car when it's at an auto show. Offer them $1k below invoice with a guarantee of no damage done and a promise on their part to correct any scratches, stains, butt smells, etc. Or agree to pay the $500 over invoice for a car that hasn't been molested by the general public. You could also remind them that they're already making a profit off the car at invoice. 3% hold over as well as the unspoken amounts they also get back from Subaru when they sell cars. Anyone a dealer/former dealer that can corroborate that?
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Jan 18, 2011 00:27
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bull3964 posted:There's no way in hell I would pay over invoice for a car that sat out in public at an auto show. I agree with Bull and Amadyke. You should be at least a grand below invoice for that.
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Jan 18, 2011 00:32
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Alright, I told the dealer I'm just going to order one instead (because of the accessories I want) and he said he'd sell it to me at $250 above invoice - reasonable? I'm going to be sealin' the deal tomorrow hopefully.
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Jan 18, 2011 11:17
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Catsoup posted:Alright, I told the dealer I'm just going to order one instead (because of the accessories I want) and he said he'd sell it to me at $250 above invoice - reasonable? I'm going to be sealin' the deal tomorrow hopefully. Yes, way better! Do you need to get an accessport or are the new '11s tunable thru Open Source?
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Jan 18, 2011 13:02
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allonblack posted:I've been told that when you divorce your accessport from the ECU it restores the backup it took prior to flashing it which restores the stock ecu checksum along with any and all traces of the ECU having been flashed. Excellent, I somehow managed to miss that on their site. It looks like the opensource stuff is fine too, I like the AP better as it seems like nearly any shop will tune with one.
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Jan 18, 2011 15:23
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Catsoup posted:Alright, I told the dealer I'm just going to order one instead (because of the accessories I want) and he said he'd sell it to me at $250 above invoice - reasonable? I'm going to be sealin' the deal tomorrow hopefully. Yeah, that sounds pretty good. Now to go through the torture of waiting.
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Jan 18, 2011 15:47
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bull3964 posted:Yeah, that sounds pretty good. Now to go through the torture of waiting. Exactly. It's my understanding that they don't actually order one for you, you just get the next one that arrives to your specifications. I may have misunderstood this however, perhaps someone else can chime in. Catsoup where are you located? Is this the only dealer you can deal with? I know there's a couple sitting on the lots here in Portland if you're anywhere near by... Blaise posted:Do you need to get an accessport or are the new '11s tunable thru Open Source? Opensource works fine on the '11's. I think in this situation an Accessport is a better suggestion due to simplicity/ease of use. allonblack fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Jan 18, 2011 |
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Jan 18, 2011 17:27
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allonblack posted:Exactly. It's my understanding that they don't actually order one for you, you just get the next one that arrives to your specifications. I may have misunderstood this however, perhaps someone else can chime in. More or less. Basically one of the dealer allocations becomes your car. If one of their allocations fits what you want, then you get it quickly. If none of them do, you have to wait until they order new allocations and your order will be one of those.
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Jan 18, 2011 17:47
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bull3964 posted:More or less. Basically one of the dealer allocations becomes your car. If one of their allocations fits what you want, then you get it quickly. If none of them do, you have to wait until they order new allocations and your order will be one of those. That's pretty lovely really. When I bought a Dodge Caliber (don't do this) back in 2006 I was given a tracking number that I could use to check up on the status of the car as it when through the factory and was shipped to me. The window sticker even said "Specially made for Amandyke"
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Jan 18, 2011 19:02
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Logistics become a bit harder when you are shipping all the way from Japan though. Not to mention that Subaru is a much smaller operation.
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Jan 18, 2011 19:07
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bull3964 posted:Logistics become a bit harder when you are shipping all the way from Japan though. Not to mention that Subaru is a much smaller operation. Excuses, excuses. They should just start building all of the NA cars at the Indiana plant really. Avoid those import taxes, charge less for the STI, then maybe I could afford one...
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Jan 18, 2011 19:21
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bull3964 posted:More or less. Basically one of the dealer allocations becomes your car. If one of their allocations fits what you want, then you get it quickly. If none of them do, you have to wait until they order new allocations and your order will be one of those. Yeah, my Outback was a complete order, and that added ~1 month to the wait time. Then again, I did save ~$800 on dealer-installation fees for all the accessories that I had factory-installed. Amandyke posted:Excuses, excuses. They should just start building all of the NA cars at the Indiana plant really. Avoid those import taxes, charge less for the STI, then maybe I could afford one... Final assembly of mine was done there. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Jan 18, 2011 |
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Jan 18, 2011 19:32
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CrazyLittle posted:Yeah, my Outback was a complete order, and that added ~1 month to the wait time. Then again, I did save ~$800 on dealer-installation fees for all the accessories that I had factory-installed. Right, but you have a Legacy. They've been doing that for a while. Imprezas not so much (unless that changed recently).
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Jan 18, 2011 19:46
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Nope, Impreza based vehicles (Impreza, WRX, STI, Forester, Outback Sport) are all still built in Japan. The rest are built in Indiana.
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Jan 18, 2011 20:29
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bull3964 posted:More or less. Basically one of the dealer allocations becomes your car. If one of their allocations fits what you want, then you get it quickly. If none of them do, you have to wait until they order new allocations and your order will be one of those. The salesman was telling me they were seeing a turn around of 5 to 6 weeks from the factory - maybe he was being optimistic? allonblack posted:Catsoup where are you located? Is this the only dealer you can deal with? I know there's a couple sitting on the lots here in Portland if you're anywhere near by... Right now I'm in Denver, but I'm going to be buying this car in St. Louis for registration reasons (I will be moving back there soon and I don't feel like blowing even more money on this car). I'm definitely going to be getting an Accessport right after that car gets off the lot. Edit: Thanks for the advice guys, quote request has been sent. Catsoup fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Jan 18, 2011 |
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Jan 18, 2011 20:30
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jamal posted:Generally they'll just start clunking due to stiction between the inverted strut insert and housing. Is stiction the reason you hear clunking from any strut, other than strut mount problems, I mean. Or is the clunking particular to those STi struts?
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Jan 18, 2011 21:29
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Catsoup posted:The salesman was telling me they were seeing a turn around of 5 to 6 weeks from the factory - maybe he was being optimistic? That seems about right. Mine was 6 weeks and 1 day from order to delivery.
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Jan 18, 2011 21:34
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kimbo305 posted:Is stiction the reason you hear clunking from any strut, other than strut mount problems, I mean. Or is the clunking particular to those STi struts? A regular strut clunk is usually due to a problem with the strut itself or something being loose/worn. This a problem specific to inverted struts like those on the sti. The sti rear struts seem to be particularly bad about it. There will be nothing wrong with the actual dampers but the strut will make a lot of noise and you can even feel it stick and release at slow speeds. Here's a set I had rebuilt and re-valved with grease fittings installed in the housings:  Here's an sti strut lined up with a d-spec and a wrx strut:  I have a set being revalved right now that should go nicely with my Racecomp Engineering black springs. jamal fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Jan 18, 2011 |
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Jan 18, 2011 22:55
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Jamal, thanks for the input regarding exhausts -- I think I'm going to go with a Cobb TBE here pretty soon, although I like the exhaust tips on the Harman more (I'm just drawn to the fittings on the Cobb as opposed to slip-joints.) Since you are the Soob'dude, I'm also looking to lower the vehicle, hopefully the right way (read: coilovers?) I really like the Ohlins Road & Track, I know they are a bit pricey, but I'm feeling them if the product is good. Any input? I'm also looking to do the whole thing as a package (meaning sways at the same time.) My goal is to bring the vehicle down, make turn-in a bit more neutral, maybe even a slight lean toward oversteer. Edit: I'm an idiot, this is in reference to a 2011 STi. thealphabetsez fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Jan 19, 2011 |
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Jan 19, 2011 03:34
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Forgive me if this has been asked already, but I tried to skim most of the posts but yeah my eyes said no more. Anyways, My mom is looking at a 2011 Outback, the APR right now is awesome, so its a good reason why she wants to get rid of her 2004 Trailblazer and get something fuel efficent. What are peoples thoughts on the CVT transmission Subaru is using now? Will it last over time? And last, She wants to tow a small boat, under 1000 pounds fully loaded plus her small 4x8 trailer with a load rating under 1000 pounds, will that give it any trouble?
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Jan 19, 2011 03:48
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thealphabetsez posted:Jamal, thanks for the input regarding exhausts -- I think I'm going to go with a Cobb TBE here pretty soon, although I like the exhaust tips on the Harman more (I'm just drawn to the fittings on the Cobb as opposed to slip-joints.) KW Variant 3 coilovers, Vorshlag camber plates, Cusco/GTSpec rear lateral links (control arms), 25mm Front Sway, 22mm Rear Sway, Whiteline Roll Center Adjust, Whiteline Steering rack bushings, proper alignment.
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Jan 19, 2011 04:32
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allonblack posted:KW Variant 3 coilovers, Vorshlag camber plates, Cusco/GTSpec rear lateral links (control arms), 25mm Front Sway, 22mm Rear Sway, Whiteline Roll Center Adjust, Whiteline Steering rack bushings, proper alignment. Is that what you are now running? BTW, I'm the guy who was taking photos of your SE at the Dick Hannah meet, particularly the drive portion. I said yo in the recent "what'd you do to your subie today" thread in NWIC.
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Jan 19, 2011 06:47
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thealphabetsez posted:Is that what you are now running? BTW, I'm the guy who was taking photos of your SE at the Dick Hannah meet, particularly the drive portion. I said yo in the recent "what'd you do to your subie today" thread in NWIC. Wait, Mason? Hey dude, I had no idea you were a goon  . When did you get an STI? That's pretty much what I'm running - no lateral links yet, but they'll be my next purchase. I also went with the BC coilovers for now anyhow, I figured at 1000 bucks they're worth a shot and if they're as great as some people say, great! If they're as terrible as some people say, oh well they sell fast/easy for 7-800 bucks and I'll get the V3's which most-everyone swears by. Plus it was an easy sell with MY WIFE. I'm happy to drive you around with the coilovers so you can get a feel for them if you want to check them out.
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Jan 19, 2011 06:57
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Forgive me if this has been asked already, but I tried to skim most of the posts but yeah my eyes said no more. CVTs are dead simple in general though, even when they break, they're alot cheaper than standard ATs. The tow rating on this car is like 3k, I think. Verify, subaru has published tow ratings.
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Jan 19, 2011 07:17
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allonblack posted:Wait, Mason? Hey dude, I had no idea you were a goon Yo! I placed an order for the car July 22nd, picked it up two-weeks after the Hannah meet. I didn't make it out to the PSU meet, was up at Trillium Lake playing in the snow a bit. We definitely need to meet up! I'd love a ride. Are things much more bumpy?
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Jan 19, 2011 07:19
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nm posted:The CVT hasn't been out long enough to know. 2700lbs for the 2.5l CVT provided you're using trailer brakes. 1000lbs otherwise. 3000lbs for the 3.6r w/ trailer brakes, 1000lbs without.
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Jan 19, 2011 07:30
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thealphabetsez posted:Yo! I placed an order for the car July 22nd, picked it up two-weeks after the Hannah meet. I didn't make it out to the PSU meet, was up at Trillium Lake playing in the snow a bit. We definitely need to meet up! I'd love a ride. Are things much more bumpy? Nice, what did you get? Just depends on where I set the dampening. On the softer settings the ride is totally reasonable, on hard the simple sighting of a pebble will rattle your teeth out . Springs are noticeably stiffer though (8k/10k) but not offensively so. The car is much more balanced in corners and the understeer has been reduced substantially, overall I'm really really happy.
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Jan 19, 2011 07:48
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thealphabetsez posted:Jamal, thanks for the input regarding exhausts -- I think I'm going to go with a Cobb TBE here pretty soon, although I like the exhaust tips on the Harman more (I'm just drawn to the fittings on the Cobb as opposed to slip-joints.) Ohlins seems to make nice stuff but their $texas motorsports dampers and the stuff they put in street coilovers is completely different. I don't use any of it because I have a really close relationship with KW, JRZ, Racecomp, and TIC, so I stick with that stuff because I know about it and can support it. The RCE T2s would be my recommendation (I would skip standard V3s because the T2s have better spring rates and valving, plus they can be custom sprung). More rear spring rate, a set of swaybars and then an ALK, RCK, and more front caster and camber will really make the car more neutral. Also I have to recommend the Harman exhaust for obvious reasons, and I should be able to get you a pretty good deal on some coilovers and the turboback. The slip joint is there for shipping purposes and to make fine tuning of the fitment easier, and it doesn't leak. There's only a slip joint in the mid-pipe so the muffler section bolts up with a standard 2-bolt flange, plus it has the benefit of being full 3" sorry for going into salesman mode there. BTW I can get you a good deal on an exhaust and some T2s. jamal fucked around with this message at 08:44 on Jan 19, 2011 |
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Jan 19, 2011 08:17
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allonblack posted:Nice, what did you get? I got an '11 Satin White Pearl 5-door with Nav. Since then I have slowly been adding various OE pieces -- I'm on the mysubie thing: It's just like facebook, but for a car! jamal posted:Ohlins seems to make nice stuff but their $texas motorsports dampers and the stuff they put in street coilovers is completely different. I don't use any of it because I have a really close relationship with KW, JRZ, Racecomp, and TIC, so I stick with that stuff because I know about it and can support it. The RCE T2s would be my recommendation (I would skip standard V3s because the T2s have better spring rates and valving). Also I have to recommend the Harman exhaust for obvious reasons, and I should be able to get you a pretty good deal on some coilovers and the turboback. The slip joint is there for shipping purposes and to make fine tuning of the fitment easier, and it doesn't leak. There's only a slip joint in the mid-pipe so the muffler section bolts up with a standard 2-bolt flange, plus it has the benefit of being full 3" Holy crap, I finally saw the AQMotorsport vinyl on the STi, I gotcha. What does RCE use from KW as a base for the T2? V3 bodies re-valved? Something that draws me to the Ohlins at the moment is the appearance of quality in the machining (don't mind the RSD watermark, it's on waffles):  thealphabetsez fucked around with this message at 08:39 on Jan 19, 2011 |
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Jan 19, 2011 08:20
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well, looking pretty is one thing- take some cheapass megans out of the box and they look good too. anyhow, like I said nothing wrong with the ohlins, but I see the guys from KW at the track actively taking part in making their stuff better. Then I see guys using the KW stuff and developing the damping and springs further for a specific application (and I've had some direct involvement in this). In my opinion the KWs are the best option for Subarus, and the custom KW stuff like the Robispec and RCE stuff is even better.
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Jan 19, 2011 09:32
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nm posted:The CVT hasn't been out long enough to know. Thanks. At least if poo poo breaks it will be reasonable to fix. Just feels weird with out changing gears though.
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Jan 19, 2011 14:42
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jamal posted:Ohlins seems to make nice stuff but their $texas motorsports dampers and the stuff they put in street coilovers is completely different. I don't use any of it because I have a really close relationship with KW, JRZ, Racecomp, and TIC, so I stick with that stuff because I know about it and can support it. The RCE T2s would be my recommendation (I would skip standard V3s because the T2s have better spring rates and valving, plus they can be custom sprung). More rear spring rate, a set of swaybars and then an ALK, RCK, and more front caster and camber will really make the car more neutral. Also I have to recommend the Harman exhaust for obvious reasons, and I should be able to get you a pretty good deal on some coilovers and the turboback. The slip joint is there for shipping purposes and to make fine tuning of the fitment easier, and it doesn't leak. There's only a slip joint in the mid-pipe so the muffler section bolts up with a standard 2-bolt flange, plus it has the benefit of being full 3" Is the ALK really going to make that much of a difference after all of that? The car feels great now, but if that's going to make it better then I better order that next .thealphabetsez posted:I got an '11 Satin White Pearl 5-door with Nav. Since then I have slowly been adding various OE pieces -- I'm on the mysubie thing: It's just like facebook, but for a car! Sweet, and it's a hatch too! Good man!
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Jan 19, 2011 16:03
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