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DatsEvolution posted:So, it looks as if I finally have a reason to post here in Automotive Insanity and stop being a lurker. I've swapped head gasket on that exact same engine myself, due to a leaky exhaust manifold and broken exhaust bolts. It was pretty rough pulling the head since it's so heavy, and you have to remove the hood to get it lifted out safely, unless you want to risk smashing the fender, windshield, and/or the head itself, plus breaking your back. You definitely need a helper and/or an engine hoist. It costs about 200-300 for head gasket set + various bits, and since you have damage on your cylinder head, it'll potentially cost a fair bit more. To be honest... a 1988 530 is worth like 1000 in good condition in Germany. The car is old, with old electronics (harder to find aftermarket parts), no facelifts, etc. The M30B30 is a bit of a bummer engine, since the M30B35 is just stronger and more desirable. Probably not worth it. I myself had a late '89 530i, and I only bought it because my insurance wouldn't allow an M50 525i due to horsepower. Sure it was a fine car and good engine, but it is a poor man's E34. Try checking the classified on http://forum.e34.de/ (Biete -> Fahrzeuge), people sell their E34s at very reasonable prices there. Check out some of this good stuff for example: '89 535, 193km, lots of equipment, 1300 '88 535, 200k, 1000 Pilsner fucked around with this message at 11:00 on Jan 19, 2011 |
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Jan 19, 2011 10:49
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ynotony posted:I want to see it in an e46 This. I want to see it in an E30. Actually, I just think they should start making the E30 again. Cheaply, in a developing country or something.
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Jan 19, 2011 12:53
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ynotony posted:Anybody else excited about BMW's new Twin Turbo 4cyl engine? I believe it's a twin scroll single turbo.
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Jan 19, 2011 14:04
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I'm curious what fuel economy would be like in the 1-series with that engine and how much of an improvement it'd be over the 128.
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Jan 19, 2011 14:44
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Ok, this is without a doubt the dumbest question of the entire thread, but it's got me stumped, and I can't find it anywhere. I have a 91' e34 535i. I've owned it for just over a year now, never had a problem. A mate asked me to jumpstart his car today. No worries, pop the hood, connect the terminals up, easy done. Mate: So, dude, where is your battery? I can see the terminals, but where they gently caress have they hidden it? Me: I have absolutely no loving idea. So, does anyone know where the battery actually is? I've got a 2,500 mile trip I'm starting on Friday and want to check that it's all good. But gently caress me if I'm not all out of ideas.
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Jan 19, 2011 14:53
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Trunk?
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Jan 19, 2011 14:59
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Right side of the trunk under a panel.
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Jan 19, 2011 15:23
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Penguin Radar posted:Ok, this is without a doubt the dumbest question of the entire thread, but it's got me stumped, and I can't find it anywhere. When i bought my 94 E32 740il, I was also stumped, but I checked the trunk and it was no where to be found. Later found it under the back seat.
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Jan 19, 2011 16:21
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revmoo posted:Right side of the trunk under a panel. No. Under the backseat on the passenger side for the E34s. Just yank up the bottom cushion on both sides of the backseat and pull it out. It feels like you're breaking it but you aren't. You can take out the entire back seats in about 5 minutes. Its pretty cool.
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Jan 19, 2011 17:15
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My Dad's Volvo XC90 also has the battery in the trunk, but there's still two terminals in the front. BMWs don't subscribe to that?
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Jan 19, 2011 19:52
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bolind posted:My Dad's Volvo XC90 also has the battery in the trunk, but there's still two terminals in the front. BMWs don't subscribe to that?
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Jan 19, 2011 19:53
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bolind posted:My Dad's Volvo XC90 also has the battery in the trunk, but there's still two terminals in the front. BMWs don't subscribe to that? The E34 has a positive terminal under the hood and a spot on the engine to clamp the negative lead for a jump.
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Jan 19, 2011 20:00
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Penguin Radar posted:e34 535i. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Jan 19, 2011 |
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Jan 19, 2011 21:08
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8ender posted:The E34 has a positive terminal under the hood and a spot on the engine to clamp the negative lead for a jump. E46 have this too but I never bothered to find the spot for a negative lead. I'd probably never bother to jump anyone since I don't have cables and they usually don't. If anything I wouldn't just so I didn't scratch the paint in the engine bay. I'm mean. 
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Jan 19, 2011 21:25
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Lowclock posted:Like 8ender said, it is under the back seat. I would recommend making sure the vent line on the battery is on there properly when you're down there next. Since you also have an E34, is your battery massive? Mine is this huge BMW battery with like 850CCA or something. Its the size of like two normal car batteries.
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Jan 19, 2011 21:38
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VibrioCholera posted:E46 have this too but I never bothered to find the spot for a negative lead. I'd probably never bother to jump anyone since I don't have cables and they usually don't. If anything I wouldn't just so I didn't scratch the paint in the engine bay. I don't generally jump people because the 4-speed auto tranny in the e28 will explode if you rev it in N or P unless you go through some song and dance that I can never remember. Genius.
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Jan 19, 2011 22:46
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evobatman posted:I believe it's a twin scroll single turbo. You're right, TwinPower Turbo = single turbo. Twin Turbo is obvious, but they also have TwinPower Twin Turbo as well I believe (X6M?). Or they might just call it a twin turbo, but pretty sure it is a twin scroll too.
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Jan 19, 2011 23:37
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8ender posted:Since you also have an E34, is your battery massive? Mine is this huge BMW battery with like 850CCA or something. Its the size of like two normal car batteries. Yea, those group 49 batteries are huge and pretty good capacity for just one, which is great because I abuse the poo poo out of them with my stereo. It's also very nice to be able to run just a couple feet of 1/0 through the factory grommet in the back seat that already have spare holes the right size, than to drill your firewall multiple times or relocate the battery or run conduit or ugghhh. Include the 140 amp alt that a lot of them came with (albeit with too-small wiring) and yea, I am pretty pleased with the stock BMW electrical, at least in relation to others I've seen.
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Jan 19, 2011 23:56
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Penguin Radar posted:Ok, this is without a doubt the dumbest question of the entire thread, but it's got me stumped, and I can't find it anywhere. It's under the back seat! 
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Jan 20, 2011 00:06
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VibrioCholera posted:E46 have this too but I never bothered to find the spot for a negative lead. I'd probably never bother to jump anyone since I don't have cables and they usually don't. If anything I wouldn't just so I didn't scratch the paint in the engine bay. It's just on the other side of the compartment wall from the positive terminal.  The large hex head by the corner of the compartment. I carry a 20 foot set of cables in my trunk. They coil nicely in to the wheel of the spare tire, completely out of the way. I've needed a jump enough times due to both bad batteries and simple failure on my part that if I see someone in need of one and can help I'll always offer. It's also quite useful when checking out vehicles for sale that may have been sitting for some time.
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Jan 20, 2011 00:17
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doogle posted:You're right, TwinPower Turbo = single turbo. Twin Turbo is obvious, but they also have TwinPower Twin Turbo as well I believe (X6M?). Or they might just call it a twin turbo, but pretty sure it is a twin scroll too. Well, the marketing department is certainly earning their paycheck.
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Jan 20, 2011 01:11
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Hey all 328i coupe It's a long shot but someone here might know the difference. The bolster on my drivers seat pad has become worn and now the metal seat frame is rubbing it's way though the leather. I'm looking at replacing the seat pad but RealOEM.com lists two possibilities 52102276391 and 52108122076. Anyone here know the difference between the parts?
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Jan 20, 2011 04:59
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Looking at an automatic Silver '95 e36 M3 with 110k miles, and I have no experience with them whatsoever beyond always having wanted one. The one I'm looking at has had the following done recently: New bilistein shocks up front New inner tie rods New Battery New profile gaskets New throttle valve switch New front struts new valve cover gasket new starter new brake light switch Compression/Cylinder test done -- all look good and healthy New IAC tube from intake manifold And it just got a paint touch-up from a body shop. What should I be asking about maintenance wise? I have enough cash to do maintenance and I want to own the car for a long time, but I want to know as much as possible before I own it. I'm going to do a PPI before anything but just checking. EDIT: Pictures of it now! http://www.flickr.com/photos/58574561@N06/?saved=1 Waroen fucked around with this message at 06:01 on Jan 20, 2011 |
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Jan 20, 2011 05:01
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Phelan posted:Hey all I used my VIN# to do the lookup, but the 2nd code you posted is for the passenger seat. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG13&mospid=47485&btnr=52_2211&hg=52&fg=10 code:
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Jan 20, 2011 05:29
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Phelan posted:328i coupe My 325i came with aged seats. If you're talking about the foam, I just bought generic foam from an upholstery store, and cut it up and glued it in place. I watched a professional antique-car-uphostery-restorer guy for a bit to see if I should hire him. That's all he did too -- buy generic foam, cut it, and glue it. Figured I might as well do it myself.
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Jan 20, 2011 05:50
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Waroen posted:Looking at an automatic Silver '95 e36 M3 with 110k miles, and I have no experience with them whatsoever beyond always having wanted one. You really want an automatic M3? Really? Find out when/if the cooling system was done. And don't pay more than 6 grand for it.
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Jan 20, 2011 14:45
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Jorsh posted:You really want an automatic M3? Really? Yeayeayea automatic I know. Following was supposedly done at approx 60k: New thermostat, waterpump, radiator, radiator pipe, serpentine belt, and ac belt. Was a FL car until 2008 so hood and top are kind of faded, is $700 too much to repaint?
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Jan 20, 2011 16:27
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Jorsh posted:You really want an automatic M3? Really? Hey be easy on him, he might be handicapped. At least I hope so. I'd keep cash saved up for a junkyard transmission, as the ones BMW uses tend to start going out around 100k-200k unless they are meticulously maintained.
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Jan 20, 2011 17:00
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tesko.pk and Infinotize and Sterndotstern posted:(Useful stuff about buying an E46.) Thanks! I went and looked at it today. 2003 (2004 MY) E46 325i Touring. Ad here: http://www.bilbasen.dk/brugt/bil/bmw/325i/25i-touring/74569 (In moonspeak). 113.000km (so around 70k miles). Didn't drive it, but sat in it with the engine running. What concerns is the following: I checked out the glove compartment, and lo and behold, there was the little booklet with the stamps. According to that one, the history was as follows: August 5th 2003: Initial pre-sale check. 0 km November 11th 2004: Oil, filter and cabin air filter. 26335 km (around 16k miles.) December 11th 2006: BMW Service I. 53920 km (around 33k miles.) June 20th 2008: Oil, filter and cabin air filter. 93810 km (around 58k miles.) Whoever did it noted "17000 km overdue." That's it. Like I said, the car now sits with 113000 km. So it's like 26k, 20k, 40k (!), 20k intervals. Of course the 40k could be, that they forgot to note one down. The three services were done at three different BMW dealerships. Now that's not a lot of oil changes if you ask me. I asked the seller about it, and he said, that they might not have recorded them all. I'm not sure how long the warranty period is, but still, why wouldn't you want the stamp and signature? The battery was stone cold dead, so we jumped it. While it idled, and when revving it a bit, both the interior light and the headlights flickered a bit. As if the belt to the alternator was slipping or something. Quite rapidly, 10Hz or so. I stuck my head in the engine bay and listened to the idle, and there was a quick ticking noise. Not too loud, but I'm not sure it's supposed to be there. The dealer said that he had had it sitting for two years, and that he'd lose money on a sale now. For what it's worth. Note, it's just a regular old car lot, not a BMW dealership. So, long story short: do I run for the hills without looking back? bolind fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Jan 20, 2011 |
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Jan 20, 2011 20:14
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I don't think I would buy a BMW with a service history like that. Even good synthetic motor oil is good for like 6-7K miles tops and most of those changes happened at intervals more than double that.
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Jan 20, 2011 20:53
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Take a pass on that one, get your nike's on and start running. Shoddy regular maintenance combined with the mileage being at the point where many things are getting worn out, nightmare waiting to happen.
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Jan 20, 2011 21:29
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Anyone know what the straight 6 engine in the european e46 325i is like after 100k miles? Are they more robust or durable than the engine in the 318 and 316? Was thinking of buying this: http://www.carzone.ie/search/BMW/3-Series/201040199761987/advert?channel=CARS
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Jan 21, 2011 00:52
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bolind posted:Thanks! The maintenance intervals could be "by the book" if someone's used this as a highway car and for nothing else. But the skipped service means yes, you instantly run away. If the "missed" service was done at a BMW dealer, that information should be automatically available on their computer system. E46 peeps to confirm, but service resets may be part of the info recorded on the keyfob (the US dealers would read the keys right at the service desk whenever booking a car in at the dealership), in which case there's no good reason that official dealer service could have been done and the later service department not known about it. Aindriu, there's nothing wrong with them, assuming the car actually has a full service history that doesn't look like the one above! If the insurance doesn't kill you however, there's no real reason not to get the 330i. The real difference in mileage is maybe a couple of MPG, if that. It's the rest of the car I'd be more concerned with. e: Personally, I also wouldn't go for the pimpwheel option - you're buying nothing but more expensive rubber and lots of kerbing/curbing opportunities. The ride isn't great and the chassis doesn't need it, especially not on Irish roads. SE spec (assuming Irish cars have the same spec options as UK) with 17s is going to be better. Saga fucked around with this message at 13:29 on Jan 21, 2011 |
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Jan 21, 2011 13:23
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Thanks, that's exactly the kind of advice I was looking for. I'd love to get the 330 but unfortunately cars registered before 2006 are all taxed by engine size and it scales rather dramatically over 2500cc. To get road tax for a 330 I'd be looking at paying 3000 a year on top of insurance at about 1400 a year. The 325 is pretty much the only affordable option above 2000cc.
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Jan 21, 2011 14:26
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Aindriu posted:Thanks, that's exactly the kind of advice I was looking for. I'd love to get the 330 but unfortunately cars registered before 2006 are all taxed by engine size and it scales rather dramatically over 2500cc. To get road tax for a 330 I'd be looking at paying 3000 a year on top of insurance at about 1400 a year. The 325 is pretty much the only affordable option above 2000cc. Yaysus. I did not know that. And I thought the emissions banding on our road tax was a pain. Nothing wrong with a 325i, despite the fuel economy thing. The 325 and 330 engines share a common bore size, so to make the capacity they went from over-square / short-stroke (revvy) to v. undersquare / long stroke (not). As you might expect with those differences, while you are losing out on 30hp (or whatever) and a slug of torque at low road speeds and RPM, the power delivery of the 2.5 is nicely balanced and definitely has its own "zingy" feel to it. It may well be more fun on a flowing road where you tend to wind it out rather than short-shifting, which the 330 definitely likes doing. Like I said, definitely go for an SE (or a base model ES actually, if you don't care about resale and want something lighter/simpler for maximum performance) and avoid M Sport cars or anything with the big "M" wheels (18" or 19") put on as an option. A mate of mine had one in London, and the ride was awful enough in West Kensington. On Irish roads it would be lethal! Also, the extra rubber is definitely not needed. If anything, it needs a bit less grip to keep the speed down and the driving fun on proper twisty roads.
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Jan 21, 2011 17:17
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We're currently rebuilding the dash and cluster on our E30 race car and we seem to have lost the wires to the speedo.  Has anyone else done this? Instructions online point to where the wires go (green connection), but not what the wires themselves look like. This is a really stupid problem, I know. If anyone has a picture of the wires to the speedo connections on the back of the cluster it would be much appreciated.
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Jan 21, 2011 20:02
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bolind posted:Thanks! It's been a little under a year since I bought my E46 320d Touring, same model year as that one. All in all, I've been very satisfied with my ownership. Did you take a test drive in it? I think you can judge it better when it is actually on the road and you can feel the engine pull and how the suspension behaves. As for the price, I think perhaps it's a bit high, I got mine for like 195k and it has a bit more equipment (xenon, navi, roof rack, heated seats, etc), but also more kms, 200k. Perhaps you can talk him down a bit because of the less than stellar service book? But then again maybe the dealer paid to little for my zx-10 that went into the deal... eh. When I had bought mine I had a third party go over the car to identify any hidden problems and they found a small oil leak on the rear differential. The dealership fixed that up with no hassle, as well as replacing a burnt out xenon. So I would say that it also matters if you trust the place where you buy it, to not jerk you around if the car has hidden faults. That's worth a lot in my book. Only thing I have had to do so far is change a light bulb and take it to the scheduled oil service when it told me it was time. I love everything about that car
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Jan 21, 2011 21:20
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Does anyone know if the nikasil issue with the M52 engine was an issue in Canada or did we get the American version of the block as well? I'm looking at a '97 528 near here next week and can't seem to get a definitive answer from google.
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Jan 21, 2011 21:36
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nikasil was an issue for v8's only. M52's were almost always iron blocks.
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Jan 21, 2011 23:24
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BraveUlysses posted:nikasil was an issue for v8's only. M52's were almost always iron blocks. M52s are aluminum blocks. M50s are iron. M52s did use nikasil liners except in US and other countries with high sulphur gas. I'm pretty sure Canadian blocks have iron sleeves, but I'm not 100% sure either. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Jan 22, 2011 |
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Jan 21, 2011 23:53
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