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Might not be the right place for this but I want to take an extremely hi-res photo and turn it into a poster. Its a 4500x3000 picture. Anyone know the best place to do that? It seems like there are a lot of online choices for this. I could also do it at Kinkos, but I'm not sure if there is a better place. I'm going for quality here, price doesn't have to be the cheapest.
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Jan 20, 2011 09:32
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I'm travelling to Europe for about 20 days in April, but I need to make sure I pack light, as I'm intending to move around quite a bit. All my cameras are awesome and I'm really needing to make sure I don't bring too many. For 35mm: I have a 5DII and a Rollei 35. I'll be bring the 5DII no matter what, so it'll probably be dumb to bring some pocketable 35mm camera when I'll have a heavy dSLR no matter what. I'm not sure. Big question is about the medium format cameras.. 120/220: I have a Mamiya 645 Pro and a Rolleiflex f/3.5. Going around Europe with a Rolleiflex seems really awesome and it was my fathers, so there is a deeply personal desire to take it with me. The Mamiya has built in metering, which is a bit more convenient than popping out the old Luna Pro F for pictures. Maybe I should just pack lightly on other things and take all the cameras?? argh
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Jan 20, 2011 16:19
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nasoren posted:guys oh no they're on to us "Hey guys, how do I make this hotel look closer to the Capitol?" "Here, borrow my 600mm and go about half a mile back."
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Jan 20, 2011 16:30
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Ballistic Photon posted:Maybe I should just pack lightly on other things and take all the cameras?? argh Well, if you don't take any change of underwear, the weight saving is about equal to the Rollei and the lightmeter. So, you have to balance 20 days in the same set of underwear against the nostalgia of the Rollei. Tough call.
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Jan 20, 2011 16:40
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Drunkboxer posted:I'm not sure it's one of those because when I sat it on a black background I couldn't see the image. I took a picture of it backlit in the window, if that helps.  Click here for the full 1350x1999 image. That looks like it might even be the same horse. I guess that doesn't help you figure out what it is, I just thought it was funny.
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Jan 20, 2011 17:21
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LitigiousChimp posted:I saw that and thought "that kind of looks like Teddy Roosevelt", so I tried Google and this picture turned up on the first page: Yeah it's him. I have a little TR collection and that's why I got it as a gift. It's from a 1905 trip to Colorado, I've seen a number of other photographs from the same day (like the one you linked) but not exactly the one I have. I'm starting to think what I have may be a magic lantern slide and not a photo. edit: then again I don't know. Lantern slides had stuff on the side of them right? Like the manufacturers info and stuff. Drunkboxer fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Jan 20, 2011 |
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Jan 20, 2011 17:36
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LitigiousChimp posted:That looks like it might even be the same horse. I guess that doesn't help you figure out what it is, I just thought it was funny. Take the image Drunkboxer posted and flip it horizontal.. the details match up perfectly. So I guess he's the owner of one of the throwaways of whatever photo shoot this was.
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Jan 20, 2011 17:36
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Not sure if this is the best place for this, but here goes - What do you guys use to calibrate monitors for accurate colors? Just got a new LG to supplement my old Dell, big difference in color cast and brightness. Does anyone have one of those Spyder calibration tools, and if so - does it work well?
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Jan 20, 2011 21:54
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I bought a Canon 50mm f1.8 off of craigslist and I've noticed a problem with it. I was cranking up the ISO because it was night and if I used a high ISO (800+) and a smaller aperture (I notice it around f8), I get an error saying the lens is not communicating with the camera and that I should clean the contact points. The camera is brand new and the lens is only a few months old, so it shouldn't be dirty. I cleaned it anyway and it didn't fix the problem. The camera completely freezes when this happens. I contacted the guy and he said that the place he bought it from will swap it out if he brings it back to them. Before I start the run around process with him though, the lens is broken right? Is there any reason that using a high ISO with a small aperture with that lens should be avoided and cause the camera to freeze if the lens is working properly?
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Jan 20, 2011 23:54
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onezero posted:Does anyone have one of those Spyder calibration tools, and if so - does it work well? I am using a Spyder 2 express and it seems to do its job. Calibration takes longer than it should (15 min?) but that's about it.
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Jan 21, 2011 00:55
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spog posted:Well, if you don't take any change of underwear, the weight saving is about equal to the Rollei and the lightmeter. Or I could bring a couple more rolls of film by bringing no underwear and just chafe my way around Europe!
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Jan 21, 2011 02:18
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Ballistic Photon posted:Or I could bring a couple more rolls of film by bringing no underwear and just chafe my way around Europe! First time I read that, I thought you were proposing to make underwear out of film. Ouch.
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Jan 21, 2011 05:34
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spog posted:First time I read that, I thought you were proposing to make underwear out of film. Just the backing paper from the 120. Suffer for your art.
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Jan 21, 2011 12:54
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Kiri koli posted:I bought a Canon 50mm f1.8 off of craigslist and I've noticed a problem with it. I was cranking up the ISO because it was night and if I used a high ISO (800+) and a smaller aperture (I notice it around f8), I get an error saying the lens is not communicating with the camera and that I should clean the contact points. The camera is brand new and the lens is only a few months old, so it shouldn't be dirty. I cleaned it anyway and it didn't fix the problem. The camera completely freezes when this happens.
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Jan 21, 2011 15:20
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jackpot posted:I can't explain why the camera's freezing, but there's definitely a reason why high ISO + small aperture should be avoided - it's bad. What are you shooting at night that requires you to stop down so much? I mean if you're taking pictures of people you want it wide open (1.8) anyway to get the most light and bokehs (in which case you could probably go down to ISO 400), and if you're taking landscapes you should be using a tripod (and thus shooting at ISO 100). I just can't think of a reason you'd ever need the combination you're using. Oh I know that technically it's a bad thing to do. I wasn't shooting anything in particular. I was just pointing my new lens at my furniture at night and playing around with settings to check that everything worked. The problem primarily happened at high ISO and small aperture, but it would occasionally happen at more reasonable settings as well. I was asking if using such settings would cause an error even with a functioning lens. Even though I'll never shoot with such settings for real, I still don't want a broken lens. The problem might eventually extend to all ISOs and apertures, for all I know.
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Jan 21, 2011 17:48
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If a lens doesn't work with certain settings and the manual doesn't say "this lens will not work with these settings," it's broken.
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Jan 21, 2011 17:56
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GWBBQ posted:If a lens doesn't work with certain settings and the manual doesn't say "this lens will not work with these settings," it's broken. Didn't get a manual with it, unfortunately, but I've found references to this problem with other lenses online, so I'm going to go with it's broken and try to exchange it tomorrow.
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Jan 21, 2011 18:16
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I live in MN and want to shoot the US Pond Hockey Tournaments today and tomorrow, but it's fricken' -11 here today and supposed to warm up to -5 tomorrow. Battery life aside, is weather like this bad for my camera and lenses? I have a D90 and would mostly be using a 80-200 2.8. Any thoughts? I've googled it, but seen mixed answers.
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Jan 21, 2011 18:43
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Jimmy Thief posted:I live in MN and want to shoot the US Pond Hockey Tournaments today and tomorrow, but it's fricken' -11 here today and supposed to warm up to -5 tomorrow. I think this is the third time this question has appeared in the last couple of weeks. There must be a lot of cold fingers this time of year. You should be fine just keep the batteries in your pocket to keep them warm. Before you go back into the warm, put the camera and lens in a ziplock bag. Then, bring them indoors and watch the condensation form on the outside of the bag (and not on your precious electronics). Give it a few hours to warm up before you unwrap it.
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Jan 21, 2011 18:50
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spog posted:I think this is the third time this question has appeared in the last couple of weeks. There must be a lot of cold fingers this time of year. Thanks, I will go ahead and do that. I appreciate the response.
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Jan 21, 2011 19:45
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I took my camera out on a walk the other day.. it was a balmy 5 degreees (fahrenheit), and the camera was fine. Towards the end of the walk however, it sounded like the focus mechanism was straining a bit. When I switched to manual focus everything was rotating freely, so I think it was mostly the battery getting too cold to deliver enough juice to properly power the lens (IS and AF) as well as the camera. Maybe a battery grip would have fewer issues? Not sure. But I think in sub-zero temps, tucking the camera into a coat when not shooting will help its performance.
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Jan 21, 2011 20:17
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Some of my old screwmount lenses get pretty angry in the cold, especially the preset-aperture ones. Seems like the lubricants gel up, gets really tough to change the aperture on 'em after a few minutes of exposure to the cold, but they're fine once I get back inside.
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Jan 22, 2011 00:25
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Kiri koli posted:Didn't get a manual with it, unfortunately, but I've found references to this problem with other lenses online, so I'm going to go with it's broken and try to exchange it tomorrow.
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Jan 22, 2011 01:41
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Kiri koli posted:Oh I know that technically it's a bad thing to do. I wasn't shooting anything in particular. I was just pointing my new lens at my furniture at night and playing around with settings to check that everything worked. The problem primarily happened at high ISO and small aperture, but it would occasionally happen at more reasonable settings as well. I was asking if using such settings would cause an error even with a functioning lens. Even though I'll never shoot with such settings for real, I still don't want a broken lens. The problem might eventually extend to all ISOs and apertures, for all I know.
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Jan 22, 2011 07:23
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xzzy posted:Maybe a battery grip would have fewer issues? Not sure. But I think in sub-zero temps, tucking the camera into a coat when not shooting will help its performance. I've heard of some people swapping out batteries a lot. i.e. they keep one in a warm pocket and every hour swap it for the now-cold one in the body. If I did it, I am sure I would probably drop one of them in the snow and short it out.
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Jan 22, 2011 07:34
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spog posted:I've heard of some people swapping out batteries a lot. i.e. they keep one in a warm pocket and every hour swap it for the now-cold one in the body. This works really well actually. When I shot rally outside in about -5 to -8 degrees Celsius all day last Saturday, I had two batteries with me. The first one showed empty after about 100 shots, so I switched them and used the other one until it had about a third of the charge in it. After changing them again, the first one once again displayed as full  Went a whole day like this and in the end I had about 800 shots taken and both of my batteries still had some juice in them.
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Jan 22, 2011 11:54
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I've had a couple of people I know working at jewellery shops ask me about doing photography for them. At the moment I don't even own a macro lens so I've had to politely decline, but I can see it being a way of making some cash if I can turn out a quality product. Anyone done this? I'm assuming I'd need some kind of light tent set up like this.
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Jan 24, 2011 13:20
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psylent posted:I've had a couple of people I know working at jewellery shops ask me about doing photography for them. At the moment I don't even own a macro lens so I've had to politely decline, but I can see it being a way of making some cash if I can turn out a quality product. If you can do it where they can't see you (cause it will look like a hack-job), you can do this for super cheap. Buy extension tubes, enough to get lifesize. Make a light box out of a normal cardboard box. Line the inside with white paper, and cut out a square from both sides and cover with white paper. If you start doing a lot and making money, get a good macro and a real collapsible tent, but you could dip your toe this way and see how profitable it would be.
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Jan 24, 2011 14:50
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jackpot posted:I can't explain why the camera's freezing, but there's definitely a reason why high ISO + small aperture should be avoided - it's bad.
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Jan 24, 2011 17:13
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psylent posted:I've had a couple of people I know working at jewellery shops ask me about doing photography for them. At the moment I don't even own a macro lens so I've had to politely decline, but I can see it being a way of making some cash if I can turn out a quality product.  This is a photo of some jewelery I just took and quickly removed dust:  IMG_0341 by like okay cool dude, on Flickr edit: Oh yeah, the lens is an old M42 100mm with extension tubes. sensy v2.0 fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Jan 24, 2011 |
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Jan 24, 2011 17:20
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What's the best way to shoot into the sun and maintain a decent foreground? Super tiny aperture + Polarizer?
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Jan 24, 2011 17:54
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A5H posted:What's the best way to shoot into the sun and maintain a decent foreground? I would think you want an ND filter more than a polarizer for something like that. Although using one doesn't prevent you from using the other as well.
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Jan 24, 2011 18:14
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A5H posted:What's the best way to shoot into the sun and maintain a decent foreground? Graduated ND filter or light the foreground with strobes.
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Jan 24, 2011 18:40
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Thanks guys. I guess I'll grab a ND filter. Can you get graduated ones in different strengths or do you just add them as you need?
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Jan 24, 2011 18:55
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They come in like 1/2, 1, 2, etc stops. You might want to meter a scene you need this for and see what the contrast difference is before buying one.
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Jan 24, 2011 20:31
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poopinmymouth posted:If you can do it where they can't see you (cause it will look like a hack-job), you can do this for super cheap. Buy extension tubes, enough to get lifesize. Make a light box out of a normal cardboard box. Line the inside with white paper, and cut out a square from both sides and cover with white paper. 
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Jan 24, 2011 22:19
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Just buy 2 scrim jims. Accomplishes the same thing, cheap, but isn't made out of cardboard. You can use them for a lot of other things since the fabric is easily changeable. I personally prefer the Photoflex ones that snap together over the ones that have to be assembled one piece at a time.
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Jan 24, 2011 22:28
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Two questions: Firstly, does anyone know a way to automatically record how long an image in photoshop has been open (i.e. the total time it has been edited or just looked at in PS)? Either a plugin or independent program would be good. Secondly, how much difference would I notice by upgrading my processor from a dual core 2.8GHz to quad core ~3.0GHz, given the following setup, and bearing in mind that my biggest annoyance is the time it takes to save large images, not slowness in general operations? : 16Gb DDR2 SSD HD with Win 7, CS5, ~30Gb free space for scratch disk Big non-system 7200rpm scratch disk Would I notice much difference going all the way to the newest motherboard and processor? I note that the time taken to save a large image is identical whether I save to the SSD or any of my non-SSD disks, so I suppose the processor has an influence. Thanks
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Jan 24, 2011 22:43
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Stupid flyaway hairs in a fashion headshot. Liquify looks horrible, clone looks just as bas.. what to use :/
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Jan 24, 2011 22:54
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Cyberbob posted:Stupid flyaway hairs in a fashion headshot. Pic so we can see what you're dealing with? Can't say I've ever thought of using liquify to remove them, that sounds like a tremendous pain in the rear end... usually I just spot heal or clone.
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Jan 24, 2011 23:13
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