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Dr. Video Games 0089 posted:I'm looking to raise my desk about 6 inches. What's the strongest and cheapest material I can get so I can stack my desk on it? My desk only gets about 25lb tops on it so the material doesn't have to be anything too fancy. Walmart sells plastic bed risers in the home decor/bedding section. They're 6 or 8 inches tall, built to hold the weight of a bed plus a person tossing around, and would probably look nicer than some bricks stacked up. edit: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Adjustable-Bed-Risers/5148131 or: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Whitmor-Bed-Risers-Black-Set-of-4/15104328 eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 16:02 on Jan 19, 2011 |
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Jan 19, 2011 05:19
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wormil posted:Concrete blocks are 8". Bricks are 2.25". Go by a lumber yard and inquire about 6x6 beam scraps which would be 5.25".
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Jan 19, 2011 15:59
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My house costs way too much to heat. My parents house is very similar: roughly the same size and layout, within 15 miles of each other, same utility companies, both built in '76, both have vinyl windows, both have vinyl siding so there's an extra layer of external insulation. However, they paid $65 to keep their place 70F last month, and I paid $130 to keep mine 57F. My furnace is relatively new and all the burners are firing, but I only get lukewarm air from the vents. The only idea I've got is that maybe the furnace is drawing more cold air from the basement and the 3 extra bedrooms than from the places I want warm, and never recirculating. Is there any real danger in covering the basement returns? The magnetic vent covers at HD say not to, but I'm only thinking about covering maybe 3 of 10.
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Jan 19, 2011 19:00
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Have you done the basic stuff first, like look for air leaks? Make sure all your doors and windows shut tightly, as well as your attic access. If you have storm doors, swap out the screen for glass.
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Jan 20, 2011 01:46
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Dr. Video Games 0089 posted:I'm looking to raise my desk about 6 inches. What's the strongest and cheapest material I can get so I can stack my desk on it? My desk only gets about 25lb tops on it so the material doesn't have to be anything too fancy. What kind of legs do you have? If you want it to look halfway decent, pick up some Bed Risers for  .EDIT: gently caress, missed the new page.
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Jan 20, 2011 02:35
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kid sinister posted:Have you done the basic stuff first, like look for air leaks? Make sure all your doors and windows shut tightly, as well as your attic access. If you have storm doors, swap out the screen for glass. Yep, I've checked all that. I've been fighting high heating bills for 3 years, but my electric bill is always so reasonable in the summer. I covered up the 3 basement returns (including one in the garage. what?) and after a day, now my upstairs vents seem to be blowing much warmer air than they have been. Hopefully I notice a difference on my bill, because I'm out of ideas short of having my furnace inspected.
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Jan 20, 2011 05:46
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eddiewalker posted:Yep, I've checked all that. I've been fighting high heating bills for 3 years, but my electric bill is always so reasonable in the summer. How warm of air is it blowing. Got a thermometer to test it?
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Jan 20, 2011 08:03
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eddiewalker posted:Yep, I've checked all that. I've been fighting high heating bills for 3 years, but my electric bill is always so reasonable in the summer. Do you have a heated garage? Is the door to the garage an exterior door or interior one?
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Jan 21, 2011 01:14
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Grave $avings posted:Well in that case I'd wash the wall thoroughly, seal up the joint with clear caulking or bathtub cement, prime the wall with Kilz or a similar waterproof paint then paint your final color on top. That should solve any rot problems. After some investigation in the garage, it looks like the primer they used was a 100% acrylic all-purpose primer. It has descriptions for interior and exterior use, but it doesn't explicitly say that it's waterproof. Will that be okay, or should I look for a primer that is explicitly for wet locations?
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Jan 22, 2011 18:37
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Quick question- would I be able to put 2 1-gang plantes side by side in a 2 gang wall plate? What I want is one of these next to one of these, mounted to this. I'm mounting a TV on the wall and I want HDMI and component plugs, and then the ability to run more cables easily if needed.
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Jan 22, 2011 21:40
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Lt Moose posted:Quick question- would I be able to put 2 1-gang plantes side by side in a 2 gang wall plate?
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Jan 22, 2011 21:51
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Alright, thats what I figured. Thanks, I will do that then.
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Jan 22, 2011 21:53
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Papercut posted:After some investigation in the garage, it looks like the primer they used was a 100% acrylic all-purpose primer. It has descriptions for interior and exterior use, but it doesn't explicitly say that it's waterproof. Will that be okay, or should I look for a primer that is explicitly for wet locations? Well honestly I would go for something explicitly for wet locations, but that's because I'm paranoid about that kind of thing.
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Jan 22, 2011 23:47
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Lt Moose posted:Quick question- would I be able to put 2 1-gang plantes side by side in a 2 gang wall plate? You can get the HDMI/component/toslink plate, and one of these, and a standard 2-gang decora plate.
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Jan 23, 2011 01:17
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Mthrboard posted:You can get the HDMI/component/toslink plate, and one of these, and a standard 2-gang decora plate. This is an even better solution, thanks! This will make the install look very clean.
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Jan 23, 2011 20:04
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I need to put a second light switch in a room, problem is the walls are loving concrete and the original switch is in a stupid place & single way, so converting to 2-way & running cable is a monumental task. I'm looking for a remote control light switch really, doesn't need to dim, just replace the current faceplate & have a second switch I can mount somewhere convenient. There'll be line-of-sight between the 2 so just about any remote type would work. Any suggestions? (I'm in the UK)
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Jan 23, 2011 20:39
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I want to build a greenhouse in the back yard. What are my options with regards to clear materials? Glass is pretty expensive, and most of the plastic glass-like materials I've heard of are degraded by the sun. My plan could make use of either clear solid surfaces or sheets of clear drop-cloth-like material equally well.
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Jan 24, 2011 01:26
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Corla Plankun posted:I want to build a greenhouse in the back yard. What are my options with regards to clear materials? Glass is pretty expensive, and most of the plastic glass-like materials I've heard of are degraded by the sun. How are your woodworking skills? I've always liked the idea of using salvage windows for a greenhouse. It would be labor intensive though, you'd have to frame for many different sized windows. Heres an example though  Salvaged glass blocks would work too. The whole building doesnt need to be glass either but obviously the more the better. You could do just the upper 2/3 of the south facing wall
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Jan 24, 2011 02:14
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I need help with how to fix this door. I have no experience whatsoever with fixing anything that is not technology related and unless this is very easy to fix, I'll probably pay a guy. Watch me to understand what I'm talking about! Anyways, the door wasn't perfectly straight and kinda falling off the hinges and one day the screws just kinda popped out at the bottom. I put them back in, but the holes in the door frame are just completely used up and are too large to hold the screws, much less the door, so I just let it hang. This has caused the other two hinges up top start popping out with the screws and will probably end up like the bottom one soon. Any ideas on how I can fix this? What tools would I need? Should I just pay a guy?
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Jan 24, 2011 02:59
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Rekkit posted:I need help with how to fix this door. They make fatter screws with a coarser thread. Go to your local hardware store and look around. As long as the heads are the same profile where they pass through the hinge you'll be fine. Don't go for super long screws, but a bit longer than what was in the hole can't hurt. Get some match-sticks & cut off the part that ignites. Shove a match-stick or two in the holes. Line up the hinge and screw in the fatter screws with a screwdriver. Repeat on the top hinge, one screw at a time. If you don't have the testicular fortitude to drive a screw by hand, you can use a drill, but make sure you go slow and don't snap off the screw or strip the head.
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Jan 24, 2011 03:48
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Screws in the door frame side of the hinge should be very long, like 2.5" or 3" and should go into the structural 2x4, otherwise the door can be kicked down with no effort. If these were tiny short screws, I highly recommend using beefier security screws. Some glue in the screw holes will help bind it, too. Squirt in glue, let it cure, then drill it before driving in the new screws.
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Jan 24, 2011 03:55
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WorkingStiff posted:Get some match-sticks & cut off the part that ignites. You can also use a little steel wool mixed with wood glue and fill the holes, tamping it down with a nail. Let dry overnight and use your old screws.
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Jan 24, 2011 03:59
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We just moved in to a new house (well, new to us), and all of the appliances stayed with the house. There's a fridge with an ice maker and in-the door ice/water dispenser. Unfortunately, there's no water line installed. I poked around the Home Depot and Lowes websites and think I know what I need, but wanted to run it by some internet experts. I have a copper cold water (I'm guessing 1") pipe that runs pretty close to under the fridge. I see that the home improvement stores sell kits with tubing, connectors and a piercing saddle valve. One of the kits comes with an inline filter as well. My guess/plan is to pull the fridge out, drill a hole through the floor for the tubing. Run the tubing down the hole, and then from the basement, connect the saddle valve to the tubing and clamp it onto the supply line until it pierces it and keep tightening until it seals. Then connect the other end of the tubing to the fridge, clamp to the joists in the basement as needed and enjoy my automatic ice maker and water in the door. Am I oversimplifying?
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Jan 24, 2011 16:32
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Phummus posted:We just moved in to a new house (well, new to us), and all of the appliances stayed with the house. There's a fridge with an ice maker and in-the door ice/water dispenser. Unfortunately, there's no water line installed. I poked around the Home Depot and Lowes websites and think I know what I need, but wanted to run it by some internet experts. Don't use saddle valves. They are pretty lovely for copper. Use a shark bite fitting. I trust it more. You will have to cut out a chunk of pipe so the Tee will fit in there correctly. Obviously the water will have to be off to do this. Then you can run a half in line to the ice maker box that you mounted in wall. http://www.amazon.com/Ice-Maker-Box-Out-Valves/dp/B000KKTLBO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1295900107&sr=8-1 Support pipe every 32" and turn water back on to test. Make sure you close valve on ice maker box or you will shoot water when you turn the water back on. Then install your braided ice maker line to the fridge to the ice maker box. http://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-8212490RC-7-Foot-Industrial-Braided/dp/B001AAEGB8/ref=sr_1_4?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1295900215&sr=1-4
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Jan 24, 2011 21:17
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^^^^^Or he could install one of these. Phummus, you'll probably want either 601-20CV or 601-30CV, depending on your pipe diameter. Copper pipe walls are 1/16" thick, so: 3/4" interior diameter pipe + 2 x 1/16" walls on either side = 7/8" outer diameter pipe. The only thing you forgot in your simplification was to turn off the water and drain the line first. last edit: that in-line filter might be superfluous, as most water-dispensing fridges also have filters built in. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Jan 24, 2011 |
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Jan 24, 2011 21:49
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kid sinister posted:^^^^^Or he could install one of these. Phummus, you'll probably want either 601-20CV or 601-30CV, depending on your pipe diameter. Copper pipe walls are 1/16" thick, so: I've never seen that compression Tee. Thats pretty cool actually. I would go with that over the shark bite because the shark bite is sealed by rubber gaskets. Where that is sealed by the compression fittings that never go bad.
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Jan 24, 2011 22:11
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Thanks everyone!
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Jan 24, 2011 22:34
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Those Sioux Chief add a line valves are great! I was in the same boat as Phummus, with the fridge coming with the house without its ice maker hooked up. I used one to hook up that ice maker and another to replace the saddle valve for my humidifier.Phummus posted:Thanks everyone! Crap, ONE last thing... If that fridge has been sitting for years without its water line filled up, then you'll probably want to throw away that first batch of ice cubes. They'll have all kinds of nastiness in them that will get flushed out.
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Jan 24, 2011 23:34
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Saddle valves are junk. As you being a fellow plumber I am saddened that you would use one on a water line. Now I have heard saddles are allowed on certain types of pipe in commercial applications. But in a home there is no reason. PHummus, if you have your kitchen sink pretty close you can always throw a double angle stop on a cold water line coming out of the wall and just use that.
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Jan 25, 2011 01:05
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So my kitchen sink has clogged. But the big problem here is that it's not just my sink. Basically, my sink and washing machine both feed into the same pipe, but the junction pipe is the wrong kind; I don't know exactly what it's supposed to be, but I think it's just a simple T-shaped pipe, which makes cabling the thing impossible, since going down the sink will just go towards the washer, and vice versa (but still costs me lots of money). Now, I've read that plunging a sink works, and since I'm dealing with a full clog (as opposed to the partial one), I think I can do it. My only issue is the pipe that the washing machine water tube feeds into, it's just a vertical thing that will overflow. My question is this: if I take out the washing machine tube, cover the pipe with duct tape (lots of duct tape), and plunger the sink, will I run into any problems?
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Jan 25, 2011 02:12
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Morpheus posted:So my kitchen sink has clogged. But the big problem here is that it's not just my sink. Basically, my sink and washing machine both feed into the same pipe, but the junction pipe is the wrong kind; I don't know exactly what it's supposed to be, but I think it's just a simple T-shaped pipe, which makes cabling the thing impossible, since going down the sink will just go towards the washer, and vice versa (but still costs me lots of money). Now, I've read that plunging a sink works, and since I'm dealing with a full clog (as opposed to the partial one), I think I can do it. My only issue is the pipe that the washing machine water tube feeds into, it's just a vertical thing that will overflow. Unless the Tee is installed backwards, Its perfectly legal. Here is a reply I had in my plumbing thread. Basicly it works for your problem too. Just make sure you plug the washer pipe if you try this. quote:It sounds as if there is a problem with the drain itself. I'd use a drain bladder sold at lowes or home depot to shoot through it.
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Jan 25, 2011 02:52
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Unless the Tee is installed backwards, Its perfectly legal. Here is a reply I had in my plumbing thread. Basicly it works for your problem too. Just make sure you plug the washer pipe if you try this. So I get one of these, attach it to a hose (which I guess I also need to get), and screw the hose into...somewhere, then stick the rubber part into the sink. Then, after blocking the washer pipe (and thankfully I just remembered that I need to block the other sink drain as well), turn on the water?
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Jan 25, 2011 04:05
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Morpheus posted:So I get one of these, attach it to a hose (which I guess I also need to get), and screw the hose into...somewhere, then stick the rubber part into the sink. Then, after blocking the washer pipe (and thankfully I just remembered that I need to block the other sink drain as well), turn on the water? No you will want to pull the P trap of the sink and put in in the dirty arm. And don't forget to get two hoses , so you can have a shut off near just incase it starts to make a mess.
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Jan 25, 2011 04:20
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Saddle valves are junk. As you being a fellow plumber I am saddened that you would use one on a water line.
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Jan 25, 2011 08:49
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kid sinister posted:You got it backwards: I replaced a saddle valve with one of those. Oh you're right, sorry I miss read that.
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Jan 25, 2011 16:59
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I've been looking at a few houses. Some good, some not so good. One of the good ones I liked was definitely a consideration, but had one huge irritating issue: Prebuilt Media Center  The media center is part of the wall so to speak. This wasn't added on after the house was built by someone, it was part of the original house design. I saw a second house with almost exact same layout, which included the same stupid media center. Behind the wall is the master bedroom, so I don't want to take out the wall entirely. Anybody know how much it would probably cost to have a professional to tear down the center and just keep it a plain white wall? EDIT: Yes I realize that I would need to add carpet or do something with the floor afterward, but I was thinking of replacing the living room carpet with tile or wood anyways if I were to get this house.
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Jan 26, 2011 02:48
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$1000-1500 (if its just demo, reframe, refinish; if there's complications like plumbing, electrical, structural it'll cost more) I'd say around 20 hours of work. Hourly rates range from as low as $20 for know-nothing Craigslist handymen to $100 for high end professional builders. Somewhere in the middle is a reasonable estimate
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Jan 26, 2011 04:27
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I checked a couple pages but I want to make sure I'm not missing anything; is there a leather working thread anywhere? I've recently gotten into leatherwork, but I find it hard to find resources online and it would be fun to find people that do the same.
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Jan 26, 2011 05:27
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nonanone posted:I checked a couple pages but I want to make sure I'm not missing anything; is there a leather working thread anywhere? I've recently gotten into leatherwork, but I find it hard to find resources online and it would be fun to find people that do the same. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3260854&pagenumber=1
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Jan 26, 2011 14:54
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Thanks! I couldn't imagine that there wouldn't be one. 
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Jan 26, 2011 16:13
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