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For what it's worth, in the motorcycle world Ohlins is what you get when you want the best. If that carries over to 4 wheels, I couldn't say. But they do look good 
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Jan 19, 2011 17:51
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yes, an ALK is probably my favorite suspension part to put on a Subaru. The RCE shocks are a re-valved and re-sprung KW, which for the additional ~200 is well worth it. Basically they give the shocks a little better range of adjustment and a little more compression valving, and then throw out the progressive rear spring and replace it with a stiffer, linear rate spring. They are special order and come straight from KW, so you can specify the spring rates to go with them. For a GR on street tires I'd shoot for somewhere in the 7k/8k region f/r.
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Jan 19, 2011 21:52
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jamal posted:yes, an ALK is probably my favorite suspension part to put on a Subaru. I really appreciate the insight. I've read some of RCE's stuff, particularly their development for the sedan springs (obviously that don't apply to me) and have been impressed. I had a huge lapse in mental ability when you first mentioned them that prevented me from connecting the two as one company. Do ALKs apply to the '11 setup? I'm having trouble finding any. In regards to sways, would you recommend RCEs as well?
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Jan 20, 2011 23:24
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thealphabetsez posted:Do ALKs apply to the '11 setup? I'm having trouble finding any. In regards to sways, would you recommend RCEs as well? Whiteline makes good sway bars. http://www.importimageracing.com/p/Whiteline-22mm-Adj-Front-Swaybar-08-11-STi.html http://www.importimageracing.com/p/Whiteline-22mm-Adj-Rear-Swaybar-08-11-WRX-STI.html Amandyke fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Jan 20, 2011 |
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Jan 20, 2011 23:29
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thealphabetsez posted:Do ALKs apply to the '11 setup? I'm having trouble finding any. In regards to sways, would you recommend RCEs as well? no actually they don't. The control arms are different and the '11 uses a spherical bearing. it's a huge improvement over the rubber ones that would fall apart but currently there's no offset version. Not as huge of a deal in the new cars since have better front geometry and a ton of caster out of the box. I like whiteline sways best and their 22mm and bigger rear bars come with reinforcement brackets for the mounting tabs, which will break with a big bar. I usually recommend 24/24. ok that description on importimage is funny as poo poo: "Ask any racer, any REAL racer, and they will tell you that..." jamal fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Jan 20, 2011 |
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Jan 20, 2011 23:44
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jamal posted:ok that description on importimage is funny as poo poo: "Ask any racer, any REAL racer, and they will tell you that..." It doesn't matter if you win by an inch or a mile, winning is winning?
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Jan 20, 2011 23:46
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Posted a few pages back about my RS. I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a guys trans/rear diff setup for my 2002 RS. He's got an 04 Forester XT trans and rear diff. I'm assuming they're 4.44 and VLSD. Will I run into any fitment issues or mechanical issues getting this thing into my RS. Do I need any different parts? Is it bolt in and go? I don't really want to buy it, get it bolted in, and go welp it doesn't work.
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Jan 21, 2011 01:21
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Get a picture of the transmission where the front axles go. in 04 they started using the axles that stick into the diff instead of the little stubs that stick out with a roll pin. If they're not the same you'll have to switch axles.
jamal fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Jan 21, 2011 |
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Jan 21, 2011 01:27
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jamal posted:Get a picture of the transmission where the front axles go. in 04 they started using the axles that stick into the diff instead of the little stubs that stick out with a roll pin. If they're not the same you'll have to switch axles. Good to know. I planned to throw my broken stock 5 speed into the back of the jeep to compare with the xt box when I get there. The axle thing, while annoying, isn't a deal breaker. Just didn't know if the clutch setup would be compatible.
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Jan 21, 2011 02:51
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Don't forget that new axles are like $50 a piece.
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Jan 21, 2011 05:07
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aw poo poo. your RS is a push-type clutch and I assumed it was pull-type like the WRX of the same year. You'll need a lot of stuff to make it work. Sorry.
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Jan 21, 2011 06:26
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jamal posted:yes, an ALK is probably my favorite suspension part to put on a Subaru.
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Jan 21, 2011 10:12
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jamal posted:aw poo poo. your RS is a push-type clutch and I assumed it was pull-type like the WRX of the same year. You'll need a lot of stuff to make it work. Sorry. As I feared :| The guy selling it swapped an STi drivetrain into his FXT. He wants to throw in all the other stuff to convert my car to pull-type, but I'm not sure it's the best route to take.
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Jan 22, 2011 05:31
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I got a 2001 Outback yesterday. Other than a strange whiff of burning plastic/rubber when I floor it (?), it seems to be in good condition. What's the goon consensus on the best first upgrade?
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Jan 23, 2011 03:32
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Bumper sticker.
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Jan 23, 2011 05:48
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Watermelon City posted:I got a 2001 Outback yesterday.
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Jan 23, 2011 06:45
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STI swap
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Jan 23, 2011 06:48
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Amandyke posted:STI swap I say do them both at the same time.
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Jan 23, 2011 06:58
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nm posted:You'll need good tires. Crap tires just means better awd burnouts!
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Jan 23, 2011 07:44
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Amandyke posted:Crap tires just means better awd burnouts! Get some Re92s, OP.
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Jan 23, 2011 08:29
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 Picked this up for my RS. 04FXT trans, diff, axles, clutch assembly. Guy gave me everything for 800 bucks. Just going to be a pain to swap it all in over just putting in a new gearbox. 4.44, VLSD, 80k miles. Yeah it's going to be sick.
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Jan 23, 2011 23:17
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My clutch is slipping. Looks like repairs will beat out catless up/down exhaust. Reccomendations on replacement. Should I go with OEM or third party? While I'm there, anything else I could/should replace? Switch to a short throw? And secondly, is this shadetree doable work? Start to finish within a weekend?
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Jan 24, 2011 23:19
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I was hoping to limp through winter with the summer tires on my 2011 WRX, but it's clear they plan to kill me long before spring. I only deal with maybe 5 snow days a year. Does anyone have recommendations on high performance all seasons? According to NASIOC these are the best tires: 1.) Potenza RE960 Pole Position 2.) Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus 3.) Continental Extreme Contact DWS 4.) Advan S4 5.) BF Goodrich Super Sport A/S 6.) P-Zero Nero M&S 7.) Eagle F1 All-Season
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Jan 24, 2011 23:27
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I'm rocking the Goodyear Eagle GT's which has apparently had the effect of preventing any decent snow in the DC area. 
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Jan 24, 2011 23:31
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toplitzin posted:My clutch is slipping. Looks like repairs will beat out catless up/down exhaust. quote:And secondly, is this shadetree doable work? Start to finish within a weekend? e: v Whoops, yeah, you should absolutely do this every time you swap a clutch disc. Why wouldn't you? Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Jan 25, 2011 |
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Jan 24, 2011 23:43
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toplitzin posted:Start to finish within a weekend? Do you have a place that will machine your flywheel during the weekend? If so, then you're good.
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Jan 25, 2011 00:07
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toplitzin posted:My clutch is slipping. Looks like repairs will beat out catless up/down exhaust. Some dealers usually offer $300 clutch replacement deals. Which is a STEAL considering the time it takes to pull a clutch usually. Unsure if it covers a flywheel turn or not... But certainly worth checking into.
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Jan 25, 2011 01:02
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So I'm not much of a car guy, have a 2000 Legacy wagon. For the past few months, its been burning up coolant but there's no leaks. Is this my headgasket going bad for sure or could it be something less costly? Also would you recommend replacing the HG (155k mi) or trying to get a new car? Should this go in the stupid car questions?
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Jan 25, 2011 02:11
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Kelmo posted:So I'm not much of a car guy, have a 2000 Legacy wagon. For the past few months, its been burning up coolant but there's no leaks. Is this my headgasket going bad for sure or could it be something less costly? Also would you recommend replacing the HG (155k mi) or trying to get a new car? No leaks under the car? No coolant smell after it warms up and you've driven around for a while? What did your oil look like the last time you changed it? Did it have a certain chocolate moose quality to it? A bit of froth perhaps? Do you smell coolant from your oil filler port (honestly don't know if that works or not, but it makes sense in my head).
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Jan 25, 2011 02:47
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Amandyke posted:No leaks under the car? No coolant smell after it warms up and you've driven around for a while? No leaks under my car, I...don't change my own oil so I don't know. I smell coolant after driving around yes.
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Jan 25, 2011 02:57
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Similar question - definitely have a blown head gasket plus a bad radiator on a '98 Forester with 185k miles. I'm already looking for another car, but just in case, would new gaskets even be worth the effort? I have the time, but I'm not sure that I have the space or the expertise.
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Jan 25, 2011 03:15
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blargle posted:I was hoping to limp through winter with the summer tires on my 2011 WRX, but it's clear they plan to kill me long before spring. I only deal with maybe 5 snow days a year. Does anyone have recommendations on high performance all seasons? According to NASIOC these are the best tires: Why not spring for some performance snow tires? Hold onto your summer tires and buy a set of '02 wheels for it... tires will be less expensive too!
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Jan 25, 2011 03:18
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Blaise posted:Why not spring for some performance snow tires? Hold onto your summer tires and buy a set of '02 wheels for it... tires will be less expensive too! Eh, he's in an area without much snow. I wouldn't bother with snows, even high performance ones. I would go with either the RE960as or the Continental Extreme Contact DWS. The later has better snow traction but is a little softer in the sidewall. I've had two sets of RE960as on my '02 and they got me through 4 western PA winters without any drama and they are pretty great in other conditions.
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Jan 25, 2011 04:22
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Kelmo posted:No leaks under my car, I...don't change my own oil so I don't know. I smell coolant after driving around yes. Could be a leaking radiator cap, leaking radiator hose (likely a top one as you're not seeing puddles), could also be a leak in the radiator itself. Next time to come home from work (or otherwise get the car nice and warmed up) leave it running and check under the hood for fresh coolant. Keep an eye out for dried up coolant around the engine bay as well.
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Jan 25, 2011 08:16
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So, I've had about a month with my slushbox-equipped 2009 Impreza with about 26k miles. All in all, I think it's a good car. I traded in my 2008 2WD MT reg cab Tacoma that I liked a lot for this car because I have a long obsession with the WRX/STi and Subarus in general. I had a early 90's FWD Subaru wagon that simply would NOT die no matter how much abuse I hurled at it. I was planning on keeping the truck, but it did not have a passenger airbag key-off, only the sensor in the seat. Toyota refused to deactivate the airbag without written permission from the company and then wanted to charge an arm and a leg to do so. The next day I was car shopping. Edit: needed to ditch the airbag because of imminent arrival of baby. I generally do my own minor maintenance. The guys at the dealership told me the oil only needs changing every 5k. They told me the same about the Tacoma but I routinely changed the oil every 3k with full synthetic. From what I've gathered on this thread, Rotella is a good oil for this car? What about filters? I generally use Wex. Anything in general I should look out for on this car? Should I bother to change the rear diff oil? As someone who is OCD about the appearance of my vehicles, I've been pretty disappointed with paint quality. I've read over and over that this is a Subaru trait, but the long hours of buffing the swirls and streaks from the previous owner's automatic car wash fetish is irritating and enough to know that my STi will be white. I plan only having this car for about two years and then trading in for a new STi (crossing my fingers for the new models to be awesome and have more power). There are minor annoyances with this car that I can deal with until then. The rattles from the hard plastic dash on rough roads make me grind my teeth, but when I'm alone I can just crank up the stereo. The stereo on any new vehicle should have an auxiliary input these days, and the automatic tranny is pretty lame. Four gears? Seriously. It should have five or at least change the ratio on fourth gear. I should be able to cruise the freeway at 80 and not be at 3500 rpms. Wow this went overboard. TL;DR Bought Subaru and am mostly happy despite some shortcomings War Bunny fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Jan 25, 2011 |
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Jan 25, 2011 16:32
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Catsoup posted:
This is just me, but I would want to master the car stock, then add more power.
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Jan 25, 2011 16:41
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War Bunny posted:This is just me, but I would want to master the car stock, then add more power. That's part of the magic of these cars, that you can throw on some really big power mods before it starts to infringe upon whether or not you can take it to work in the morning.
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Jan 25, 2011 17:50
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War Bunny posted:This is just me, but I would want to master the car stock, then add more power.
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Jan 25, 2011 18:04
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My wife and I are seriously contemplating breeding in the near future and I'd like to ditch my lovely 2005 Chevy Cobalt coupe for something with 4 doors for ease of car seat access. I've been drooling over a new WRX sedan but haven't had a chance to test drive one yet and I was wondering if anyone has experience with the back seats in one, especially with child seats. My second choice would be a Legacy 2.5GT since I'm sure that would have plenty of room, but I'd like to keep the total price tag under $30,000 which I don't think the 2.5GT will accomplish. Any advice from parental Subaru goons is appreciated!
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Jan 25, 2011 18:10
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KleenexCMW posted:My wife and I are seriously contemplating breeding in the near future and I'd like to ditch my lovely 2005 Chevy Cobalt coupe for something with 4 doors for ease of car seat access. I've been drooling over a new WRX sedan but haven't had a chance to test drive one yet and I was wondering if anyone has experience with the back seats in one, especially with child seats. My second choice would be a Legacy 2.5GT since I'm sure that would have plenty of room, but I'd like to keep the total price tag under $30,000 which I don't think the 2.5GT will accomplish. The rear-facing baby seats take up a ton of room...they're longer than they appear once you get them in the car. We had to put ours in the rear passenger side because it would have been impossible for me to drive with so little leg room. This from a guy who's barely 5'10" Oh yeah, 09 Impreza sedan, if you didn't read my previous posts. --- As for the tuning, that's pretty awesome to be able to get down to 91 octane instead of 93 with the accessport.
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Jan 25, 2011 18:23
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