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My advice would be to buy tons of Arista Premium 400 and Legacy Pro 100 (Fuji Acros). As for colour film, I would advise you to pick up some 400 film because it there's not much daylight this time of year. I'm a big fan of Fuji 160S, but Freestyle doesn't seem to have that in 35mm. They do seem to have Reala 100 in 35mm so if you like a more natural-coloured film, I whole-heartedly recommend it. I wouldn't run with nothing but Ektar because the colours can be a little wilder than you might like depending on your style.
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Jan 28, 2011 00:41
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Hahaha I just got really scared upon scanning my first 120 negatives with my Epson 4490 that I got in the mail tonight. The results of the first scans looked like this: Click here for the full 1245x1227 image. After some inspection I found out that the jpeg slider that I moved to 100 (assuming it was like the photoshop jpeg slider - right = better) was actually the compression slider. So I had compressed the file to the max. Hilarious. Scanning the real stuff now. I'll post again with actual results.
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Jan 28, 2011 01:51
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I went outside with snow pants, a camera, a bottle of beer and a reciprocity failure chart for Tri-X. Why am I so sure that my exposures were horribly miscalculated?Cannister posted:
edit: actually, I hope you do but manage to get back safely. GWBBQ fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Jan 28, 2011 |
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Jan 28, 2011 01:54
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Well poo poo, my XA turns up a month later than it should and with a broken focus mechanism ... debating whether to fix it or sell it on and buy a guaranteed working one. Guess this leaves me 2/4 on 'untested' eBay cameras.
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Jan 28, 2011 02:11
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BeastOfExmoor posted:Here's my current Freestyle Photo cart. Looking for opinions. To echo HPL, lose the AP100 and stock up on Legacy Pro 100. Tri-X and Acros is the combo I've settled on. Acros is a gorgeous sharp and tonal film, Tri-X is a classy 400 speed film that you can push to hell and back (it's better than ISO3200 films at 3200). I HATE CARS posted:Well poo poo, my XA turns up a month later than it should and with a broken focus mechanism ... debating whether to fix it or sell it on and buy a guaranteed working one. Guess this leaves me 2/4 on 'untested' eBay cameras. I bought one from Ebay with the flash and the case, it came with a return policy and I needed it. Lesson learned - I probably saved myself $20 over just buying one from KEH that I know works, and I wasted that much in shipping. HPL posted:As for colour film, I would advise you to pick up some 400 film because it there's not much daylight this time of year. I'm a big fan of Fuji 160S, but Freestyle doesn't seem to have that in 35mm. What do you recommend at 400? I love Reala, but it seems Portra is a lot more tame, and the Fuji lineup is pretty undistinguished (not to mention confusing). Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Jan 28, 2011 |
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Jan 28, 2011 02:18
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I HATE CARS posted:Well poo poo, my XA turns up a month later than it should and with a broken focus mechanism ... debating whether to fix it or sell it on and buy a guaranteed working one. Guess this leaves me 2/4 on 'untested' eBay cameras. How's the focus broken? I bought one with a jammed aperture lever but was able to open it up and bend the little bar back no problem. Of course, fixing the RF alignment proved to be basically impossible, whatever Japanese engineer designed that thing was a goddamn sociopath. Little guy is still sitting in parts in ziploc bags on my "Projects" shelf (aka "the graveyard") 
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Jan 28, 2011 02:22
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Paul MaudDib posted:What do you recommend at 400? I love Reala, but it seems Portra is a lot more tame, and the Fuji lineup is pretty undistinguished (not to mention confusing). Aren't you lucky! Fuji just made the lineup less confusing last year when they discontinued a bunch of films. Reala is very similar if not the same as Fuji 160S. The Fuji C41 film lines are quite similar to Kodak's in that with Fuji you have 160S and 160C which is sort of like Portra 160NC and 160VC or whatever. You get the point. As far as 400 colour film goes, to be honest I haven't shot a lot of it. I've used both Portra 400NC and Fuji 400H and neither really blew my socks off but were adequate for the purpose.
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Jan 28, 2011 02:26
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Boosh.
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Jan 28, 2011 03:12
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Pompous Rhombus posted:How's the focus broken? I bought one with a jammed aperture lever but was able to open it up and bend the little bar back no problem. RF patch doesn't move when I try to focus, and it seems as if the camera itself isn't focusing either. If it was the alignment that actually doesn't seem to be too hard, if you can search for repair manuals and you have small enough screw drivers and enough patience you should be able to fix it yourself.
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Jan 28, 2011 03:24
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 The result of a long time's worth of collecting stuff as cheap as possible, and taking over the daughter's room after she grew up and moved out... It needs work and all but holy cow, I'm back in the darkroom again!
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Jan 28, 2011 04:25
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HPL posted:My advice would be to buy tons of Arista Premium 400 and Legacy Pro 100 (Fuji Acros). As for colour film, I would advise you to pick up some 400 film because it there's not much daylight this time of year. I'm a big fan of Fuji 160S, but Freestyle doesn't seem to have that in 35mm. They do seem to have Reala 100 in 35mm so if you like a more natural-coloured film, I whole-heartedly recommend it. Thanks for the advice, I'll switch to the Legacy Pro. I'm not really planning on shooting with the Ektar on this trip (I'll have my 50D with me if I want to do color anyway) and will probably save it until we get some nicer days in the northwest and I'll have plenty of light then. The shots I've seen with Ektar have had vivid colors, but not over-the-top like Velvia or what have you. Now I just have to decide if I want to take the Konica Autoreflex TC my father in law handed down to me w/ a 28mm F/2.8 and 50mm F/1.7 or my Canon AE-1 with a Tamron Adaptall2 35-80 F/2.8-3.8. Haven't shot with either so I should probably do a test roll before I go I suppose.
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Jan 28, 2011 05:53
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Thanks to this thread, I just developed my first 2 rolls of film. Gotta say, incredible stuff. I was having trouble with the dark part, reeling the film... So I put on NVGs with the illuminators off and it made it ten times easier. No ill effects on the film. I'm going to continue this practice. I'd rather have zero depth perception and see, than my clumsy rear end fumble around in the dark. Soon as I get access to a scanner I'll post some stuff up. But thanks thread, you just introduced me to a whole new hobby that's taken over my life!
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Jan 28, 2011 06:04
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BeastOfExmoor posted:
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Jan 28, 2011 06:08
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dorkasaurus_rex posted:so in about 2 hours I will get my first scans from my first roll of the new portra 400 MF back from the lab... Didn't do any crazy pushing but I'm still really curious to see the general look of them. Are you still using the same place in Manhattan for development?
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Jan 28, 2011 06:16
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Tempest815 posted:Thanks to this thread, I just developed my first 2 rolls of film. Gotta say, incredible stuff. I was having trouble with the dark part, reeling the film... So I put on NVGs with the illuminators off and it made it ten times easier. No ill effects on the film. I'm going to continue this practice. I'd rather have zero depth perception and see, than my clumsy rear end fumble around in the dark.
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Jan 28, 2011 14:28
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Dr. Cogwerks posted:Ninety bucks. $45 each for a pair of cameras that can potentially sell for over a thousand each. This poo poo pisses me off, at least be honest about their potential value. It's incredibly assholish of you when it's just some random person even more when it's some old lady who doesn't know that she could have used the internet to get a fair idea of each cameras/lens' worth.
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Jan 28, 2011 15:02
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Quick stupid question: Do I need to protect processed negative 120 film for sending through the post? Is there any danger of friction damage or chemical interaction with the plastic wrapper.. or can I just put the film in a ziplock bag between a few layers of stiff cardboard to prevent folding?
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Jan 28, 2011 15:33
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sweat poteto posted:Quick stupid question: Do I need to protect processed negative 120 film for sending through the post? That should be fine. Ideally you'd want to use an archival-safe negative sleeve, but for the week or so it would spend in the mail it ought to be fine.
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Jan 28, 2011 15:35
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Ferris Bueller posted:This poo poo pisses me off, at least be honest about their potential value. It's incredibly assholish of you when it's just some random person even more when it's some old lady who doesn't know that she could have used the internet to get a fair idea of each cameras/lens' worth. Aye. Seems to happen quite a bit with that store... it's a good place to pick up old screwmount lenses for like $20, but it's sad to see them gouging old people and then jacking the price up 400% or so before putting it back on the shelf. sweat poteto posted:Quick stupid question: Do I need to protect processed negative 120 film for sending through the post? If you have any art supply stores near you, see if you can pick up a cheap little sheet of Glassine or perhaps tracing paper. It'd help to prevent the cardboard from scratching the film.
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Jan 28, 2011 20:06
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evil_bunnY posted:I love that you got NVG's good enough to see in a room dark enough to not fog film, but no scanner. Priorities, man. That MW2 preorder did something for me.
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Jan 30, 2011 06:15
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I'm shooting a roll of HP5+ at 400 ISO. I'm going to be developing it (my first roll  ), but my photo class's standard developer is D-76. Should I be using something else for this? Is DD-X good?
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Jan 30, 2011 09:12
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atomicthumbs posted:I'm shooting a roll of HP5+ at 400 ISO. I'm going to be developing it (my first roll D-76 should be just fine.
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Jan 30, 2011 09:25
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Dr. Cogwerks posted:D-76 should be just fine. Lauder Formula 76 is the same, right?
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Jan 30, 2011 09:35
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atomicthumbs posted:Lauder Formula 76 is the same, right? Yes, but in a pre-mixed stock dilution. It's actually pretty great, and they mix it with distilled water. D76/forumla 76 is pretty much the gold standard for Tri-X. I know I've used it before for HP5 but I forget how it turned out. Just fine, I'm sure.
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Jan 30, 2011 10:16
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Do I need a special fixer or developer to develop Tmax 3200? I have Gamma Plus developer and Kodafix.
Cannister fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Jan 30, 2011 |
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Jan 30, 2011 20:33
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Getting my dilutions straight: stock is a solution that's entirely developer, right? And 1:1 is half developer, half water? And mixing up powder developer gives you a stock solution, right?
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Jan 30, 2011 23:29
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atomicthumbs posted:Getting my dilutions straight: stock is a solution that's entirely developer, right? And 1:1 is half developer, half water? Yup. And 1:4 is 20% developer and 80% water. Edit: it makes more sense to me to write 1+1 or 1+0 or whatever.. Zegnar fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Jan 30, 2011 |
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Jan 30, 2011 23:34
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Cannister posted:Do I need a special fixer or developer to develop Tmax 3200? I have Gamma Plus developer and Kodafix. http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=TMax+P3200&Developer=&mdc=Search
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Jan 30, 2011 23:40
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Picked this up for my rangefinder collection today. It was $20 at an antique store. Everything is working and it only needs a bit of RF adjustment and a light seal kit then it's usable, so definitely a steal at that price.
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Jan 31, 2011 00:04
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beeker posted:Picked this up for my rangefinder collection today. It was $20 at an antique store. Everything is working and it only needs a bit of RF adjustment and a light seal kit then it's usable, so definitely a steal at that price. What other pieces of kit do you have? I was wondering how big the GIII was compared to other things, because I've been wanting a small rangefinder but this seems significantly larger than the Olympus 35 RC I've been eyeing.
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Jan 31, 2011 00:34
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Here's my other RF stuff in respect to the GIII, this is definitely one of the more compact ones, but the XA is always smallest: - Zorki 6 (larger than GIII) - Olympus XA (smaller than GIII) - Yashica Electro 35 GSN (larger than GIII) - FED 2 (larger than GIII). - Canon QL25 (larger than the 17 and has cheap optics)
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Jan 31, 2011 00:53
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If you want a small rangefinder, get an XA. Just about everything else is the size of a film SLR like a Pentax MX.
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Jan 31, 2011 03:15
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I was just going through a box of my old "photo stuff" and I found a couple of undeveloped rolls of HP5 ISO 400 I shot on a cross country road trip in 2003. Not sure when they were made, but it could've been as early as 1999. Assuming I managed to expose these right what should I expect when I develop them? Any reason to save them a few months and see if I decide to buy some chemicals for self-developing B&W vs taking them to some whatever local store will develop them for me? I also have a couple rolls of unshot T-Max 100 (Exp. 7/2001) and a roll of Ilford Delta 400 (Exp. 4/2006). I plan on using these as test rolls for the SLRs I recently picked up, but I'm curious what I should expect there as well.
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Jan 31, 2011 04:00
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BeastOfExmoor posted:I was just going through a box of my old "photo stuff" and I found a couple of undeveloped rolls of HP5 ISO 400 I shot on a cross country road trip in 2003. Not sure when they were made, but it could've been as early as 1999. Assuming I managed to expose these right what should I expect when I develop them? Any reason to save them a few months and see if I decide to buy some chemicals for self-developing B&W vs taking them to some whatever local store will develop them for me? All of it comes down to the storage conditions. If they haven't been exposed to hot or humid conditions, they should all be totally fine and normal with maybe a very slight decrease in speed and in the worst case a tiny bit of base fog on the 400.
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Jan 31, 2011 04:09
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I accidentally metered and shot a Plus-X 125 as ISO 1600, which is about 3.7 stops too fast, right? (log2(1600/125) = 3.7) Does a factor 6 sound reasonable for pushing it? I know it probably won't turn out well.
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Jan 31, 2011 12:23
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nielsm posted:I accidentally metered and shot a Plus-X 125 as ISO 1600, which is about 3.7 stops too fast, right? (log2(1600/125) = 3.7) I once exposed Plus-X at around ISO 25, and probably pushed it to 200 in development, the negatives were almost solid black but still usable, I think Tri-X and Plus-X work better with severe overexposure than underexposure in general. If PX is like TX then that push isn't outside the realm of possibility but you'd need a serious hard-core developer.
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Jan 31, 2011 13:18
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Hope this is the right thread since it's film talk: Do you guys have any advice for getting some Ektachrome 120 (E-6) processed? I'm so used to B&W and just doing it myself... I figured I could use Walgreens send-out service and save a little money in the meantime, but the clerks were absolutely mystified by "the biggest film ever, like, huge" and assured me they couldn't send it out to their labs. I feel like that's a load of bullshit...
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Jan 31, 2011 17:15
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lucifer chikken posted:Hope this is the right thread since it's film talk: Do you guys have any advice for getting some Ektachrome 120 (E-6) processed? I'm so used to B&W and just doing it myself... I figured I could use Walgreens send-out service and save a little money in the meantime, but the clerks were absolutely mystified by "the biggest film ever, like, huge" and assured me they couldn't send it out to their labs. I feel like that's a load of bullshit... Remember that drug store "Photo Technicians" have very little to no training. I'm sure they can send it to who ever their lab is (probably Fuji). Your other option is to find a proshop that does it in house. Mine is pretty cheap.
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Jan 31, 2011 18:52
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lucifer chikken posted:Hope this is the right thread since it's film talk: Do you guys have any advice for getting some Ektachrome 120 (E-6) processed? I'm so used to B&W and just doing it myself... I figured I could use Walgreens send-out service and save a little money in the meantime, but the clerks were absolutely mystified by "the biggest film ever, like, huge" and assured me they couldn't send it out to their labs. I feel like that's a load of bullshit... That is complete bullshit. If they're got send-out mailers, just write 'E-6 120' in the Special Instructions field and don't talk to the employees. Walmart will do it if Walgreens refuses, though I'm pretty sure that both stores have a contract with Fuji for send-out service... which usually ends up going to Dwayne's Photo in Kansas.
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Jan 31, 2011 20:14
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Freestyle Photo is pretty much the best place to buy film and paper and chemicals and stuff, right?
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Jan 31, 2011 20:55
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