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Can someone recommend me a good 15mm WWI game? I've heard about Through the Mud and Blood from Too Fat Lardies (Very possibly in an incarnation of this thread) but is there anything else exciting?
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Dec 28, 2010 03:05
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moths posted:Can someone recommend me a good 15mm WWI game? I've heard about Through the Mud and Blood from Too Fat Lardies (Very possibly in an incarnation of this thread) but is there anything else exciting? Canvas Eagle for some very sweet 15mm WW1 dogfighting, of course! It's really easy to learn too. The models from Skytrex look awesome and are affordable, but a bitch to put together. http://www.skytrex.com/146/Red-Eagle-1-144th-WWI/
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Dec 28, 2010 03:09
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moths posted:Can someone recommend me a good 15mm WWI game? I've heard about Through the Mud and Blood from Too Fat Lardies (Very possibly in an incarnation of this thread) but is there anything else exciting? I was impressed with Warhammer Historicals: The Great War although opinions certainly vary around the net. I think its made to be played primarily with bigger mini's (the guy i played with had ones from Foundry I believe) but you could reasonably halve all the distances to rescale it. It's more of a skirmish level thing though, so probably not the right thing if you're going for a 15mm scale battle.
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Dec 28, 2010 03:40
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Does anyone know of a good source for uniform and vehicle markings for the Estonian SS divisions? I'd like to get the Osprey book on the SS but I'm not sure how well that covers the Estonians as I assume like other Osprey books it focuses mainly on more popular or famous units and I really have no use for a bunch of pictures of Wiking and Totenkopf guys. My friend said that Crowood produces a book on SS schemes but as far as I can tell its just for camo. I know Osprey has the Eastern Front Allies book but I was afraid that it wouldn't have the Estonian SS because they were an SS division.
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Dec 29, 2010 04:41
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lilljonas posted:"Stairs Included! Miniatures" This one is actually cool, because you could use a cartoon sleazy used car salesman as your mascot.
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Dec 30, 2010 03:24
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Silhouette posted:This one is actually cool, because you could use a cartoon sleazy used car salesman as your mascot. True. However, I ended up going with the much more boring "Mura Miniatures" right now (mura is japanese for village. At least there is sort of a hidden joke in there as mura mura means horny), and with goon hosting and registration from Lithium Hosting I'm happy to empark on this 100% SA enterprise in the seedy underbelly of historical wargamer. JPEG artifacts and web design straight out of 1997 can be found at https://www.muraminiatures.com as I struggle to learn how to code a website.
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Dec 30, 2010 06:01
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If you want any help with html or css I'd be glad to help, I do websites for a living.
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Dec 30, 2010 16:07
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Just bought Ambush Alley Force on Force and their new sci fi skirmish game, Tomorrows War- $20, total bargain. Force on Force looks superb (already a regular Ambush Alley player) and has now meant Ive just splashed out on a shed load of 15mm modersn. Got myself a Apache chopper, M1A1 Abrams, 2 M2 Bradleys, a M113 (gonna make it a medic CASVAC point in game), and a platoon of American infantry, all from QRF. Also got a load of Fedayeen on the way from Rebel Minis, and am now shopping around for something to stand in for Iraqi regular troops. Torn between Peter Pig african regulars in helmets, or QRF Syrians. Also need a couple of T55s and T72, and 1 or 2 Peter Pig tehcnicals for the Fedayeen. Cant wait!
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Jan 2, 2011 14:28
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Anyone want some 3mm ACW? http://theminiaturespage.com/news/405124/
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Jan 5, 2011 03:56
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lilljonas posted:Digital camo is hard as hell to paint (don't ask me about my attempt at painting a real A.E.G. G-IV camo) and that is close enough plus it looks great. Go for it. Thanks! Any suggestions (from anyone really) about how to base Berlin Brigade figures and vehicles? I feel that plain dark grey tarmac would be accurate I guess but might look a little boring. Would jazzing it up with bits of pavement etc be too silly or would that work? If anyone has photos of urban 6mm basing, I'd love to see.
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Jan 7, 2011 19:23
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To be honest I would sand cover the bases and paint in a mix of brown and grey dry brushes.
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Jan 8, 2011 08:29
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hey you smelly gamers, but some incense!
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Jan 10, 2011 15:28
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Getting ready for the U.S. Team FoG Championship this weekend. Hopefully will have some sexy photos to show. Any Goons in Austin? Come check out the tournament. http://www.greathallminis.com/events/FOG_team.htm Stay tuned.
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Jan 10, 2011 17:46
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Jinjin Bemar posted:Just bought Ambush Alley Force on Force and their new sci fi skirmish game, Tomorrows War- $20, total bargain. Force on Force looks superb (already a regular Ambush Alley player) and has now meant Ive just splashed out on a shed load of 15mm modersn. Went a bit nuts and have now ordered a shed load more stuff- 2 more Bradleys, 2 BMP2d's, T55 and T72 from Skytrex and lots of QRF Syrian infantry too... Oh well.
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Jan 10, 2011 20:24
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I found out that there's a fan WWI suppliment for FoW. And then there's people in my area involved, and I'm pretty excited about this because I dig FoW but eh, Nazis. So here's a question for you FoW guys! How does the basing scheme work? I can tell that command sections go on the small ones and squads go on the medium ones. But what are the huge bases for? And what size bases do weapons teams (ie: Lewis guns) go on? This is probably all basic stuff covered in the FoW rules, but my models got here before the book. 
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Jan 12, 2011 01:25
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moths posted:I found out that there's a fan WWI suppliment for FoW. And then there's people in my area involved, and I'm pretty excited about this because I dig FoW but eh, Nazis.
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Jan 12, 2011 03:24
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Arquinsiel posted:You're gonna need to take a look at the rules and army lists to work it out exactly, but generally you're right about the small and medium, except "man-packed" guns also go on the medium bases, and the large bases are for things like field guns or staff teams. Yeah, thankfully they lay out pretty clearly how you're supposed to base everything. In other news I bought a bunch of Flames of War stuff the other week and I have to take back a lot of the yang I've talked about them over the years. They do quality work and once I actually looked at just what you get in each box, they're pretty competitively priced considering the quality. I'll probably go blind and insane before I've painted my first SS Wiking panzergrenadier company. God drat that camo scheme in 15mm...
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Jan 12, 2011 11:16
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I just finished my first test casting of a 6mm house. There's a lot that went wrong due to beginners' mistakes, but I think I'm starting to get a hang of this now. I gave the house a quick paint job just so I could take a photo, and the paint job makes the worst bubble problems less obvious. Hopefully my next couple of casts will have fewer bubbles now that I know more about the process.  Sellable?
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Jan 15, 2011 18:51
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I've seen people try to sell 15mm terrain that looks much worse, I'd say you're on the right track. I'd definitely buy some if I was into that scale or time period.
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Jan 15, 2011 19:00
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uncle jimbo posted:I've seen people try to sell 15mm terrain that looks much worse, I'd say you're on the right track. I'd definitely buy some if I was into that scale or time period. Holy shitballs, TimeCast mailed me and they want to sell my houses in the UK. That came... suddenly. Time to step up my game and make some better houses, because they have some serious high quality stuff in their own ranges.
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Jan 15, 2011 20:59
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They want you to sell them in the UK? As in under their banner, or as an affiliate or something? That's a pretty solid accomplishment if so I'd say, well done! I agree with uncle jimbo. If the price were right I'd certainly buy some (also if it were Napoleonics or Ancients, since I'm trying to limit my eras lest it get out of hand).
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Jan 15, 2011 21:35
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lilljonas posted:Holy shitballs, TimeCast mailed me and they want to sell my houses in the UK. That came... suddenly. Time to step up my game and make some better houses, because they have some serious high quality stuff in their own ranges.  I really want to shell out on a ton of the timecast modern buildings so I can make a small town, but that's a lot of expense for something I am unlikely to use more than once a year. Cardboard buildings it is! Actually, on that topic.... if I don't want papercraft 6mm buildings, but want to make my own from scratch... is making them out of sturdy card the best option, or is there some awesome but cheap sculpting material I'm not aware of for making solid buildings with door/window/roof tile level detail?
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Jan 15, 2011 22:09
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Sokrateez posted:They want you to sell them in the UK? As in under their banner, or as an affiliate or something? That's a pretty solid accomplishment if so I'd say, well done! They sell from various makers on their homepage, even if the vast majority is from their own brand. I started with Japanese 6mm since no-one has ever made it, and it seems to pay off already. 6mm Ancient houses is actually a pretty good option too, since there's not so many makers for that either. quote:Actually, on that topic.... if I don't want papercraft 6mm buildings, but want to make my own from scratch... is making them out of sturdy card the best option, or is there some awesome but cheap sculpting material I'm not aware of for making solid buildings with door/window/roof tile level detail? I make mine out of plasticard, as foamcore is too thick for most stuff in 6mm. Really sturdy cardboard should do as well. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Jan 15, 2011 |
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Jan 15, 2011 23:08
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lilljonas posted:I make mine out of plasticard, as foamcore is too thick for most stuff in 6mm. Really sturdy cardboard should do as well. This is clearly a noob question, but how do you get plasticard to stay together at right angle joins if you're making somewhat cuboid things? The only times I've used it as more than a base/detailing material, it just falls to bits with a little handling.
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Jan 15, 2011 23:39
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While I haven't built with plasticard myself, it's my understanding that you make little triangular braces to place inside the structure and sturdy it up.
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Jan 16, 2011 02:38
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PeterWeller posted:While I haven't built with plasticard myself, it's my understanding that you make little triangular braces to place inside the structure and sturdy it up. That is way better than the way I currently do it: just using glue. However, if the plasticard is relatively thick, it's completely possible to do it with just glue as you already have straight angles to glue to each other.
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Jan 16, 2011 07:22
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Does anyone have any good speed painting tips for Flames of War SS Panzergrenadiers? I'm doing an SS Wiking army and god drat it's gonna take FOREVER to paint camo on all these dudes in addition to all the details. I bought some suitable spray today for the basecoating. I'm hoping that + citadel washes will speed things up, but I could still do with some tips. As a 20 - 30mm player / painter I'm completely out of my comfort zone.
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Jan 19, 2011 21:37
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Der Shovel posted:Does anyone have any good speed painting tips for Flames of War SS Panzergrenadiers? I'm doing an SS Wiking army and god drat it's gonna take FOREVER to paint camo on all these dudes in addition to all the details. Remember the scale. You basically just need to give the impression of SS camo from 6 feet away or so, the how to paint nazis pamphlet that BF put out a year or two ago has some pretty good tips. Don't try to get every detail in, just get the main camo colors in, and inkwash that poo poo, and crinkly old historical wargamers with coke-bottle glasses will think you're paint vagrant or some poo poo. 15mm is WAY easier to do than 28-30mm, since the eye cannot physically seperate all the detail like it can at a larger scale, so you can make it relatively sloppy and still look how it's supposed to.
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Jan 19, 2011 22:33
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Devlan Mud posted:Remember the scale. You basically just need to give the impression of SS camo from 6 feet away or so, the how to paint nazis pamphlet that BF put out a year or two ago has some pretty good tips. Don't try to get every detail in, just get the main camo colors in, and inkwash that poo poo, and crinkly old historical wargamers with coke-bottle glasses will think you're paint vagrant or some poo poo. Ooh, there's a pamphlet? The only thing I've seen is this article which I've been following. The camo does end up looking lovely, but each miniature takes like 15 minutes to paint. At that rate it'll take me something like 20 hours to paint one company. I guess what I'm looking for really is "how to fake the camo so that it looks the job but doesn't take 8 minutes to paint".
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Jan 20, 2011 07:39
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A friend introduced me into the world of Miniatures with Flames of War yesterday and I had a blast with the system. So I went to the FoW online store to check and see if I could build a decent army, some infantrie, some field guns, maybe some StuHs and to say I was surprised at the cost of this hobby would be an understatement. So.. is there a way I can get a decent army without throwing three or four hundred for one army?
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Jan 21, 2011 22:17
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KildarX posted:A friend introduced me into the world of Miniatures with Flames of War yesterday and I had a blast with the system. So I went to the FoW online store to check and see if I could build a decent army, some infantrie, some field guns, maybe some StuHs and to say I was surprised at the cost of this hobby would be an understatement. So.. is there a way I can get a decent army without throwing three or four hundred for one army? Well, you could go to https://www.thewarestore.com if you're in the US and save money. But this isn't a cheap hobby by any means. Also, buy the books first, build out an army list, and then buy what you need. Don't do like the rest of us always do and buy 3 armies worth of dudes to field one army. (You will do this anyway, no matter how many times we say not to.)
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Jan 21, 2011 22:29
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So why are we sculpting 20mm tall "15mm" figures now? I'm looking at you Old Glory, even though I know this is likely Battlefront's fault.
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Jan 22, 2011 01:03
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moths posted:So why are we sculpting 20mm tall "15mm" figures now? I'm looking at you Old Glory, even though I know this is likely Battlefront's fault. inflation
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Jan 22, 2011 03:59
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Yeah alternative manufactures might help you save some money. Peter Pig does some nice WWII 15mm minis that I believe are cheaper than official FoW ones. He's UK based, so the cost of shipping might offset the cheapness a bit, I'm afraid. As a reference, his infantry come in packs of 8 of a kind (such as "German infantry with Kar98, Advancing") for £2.40 (before tax/shipping), which is abou $3.85 right now.
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Jan 22, 2011 08:47
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KildarX posted:A friend introduced me into the world of Miniatures with Flames of War yesterday and I had a blast with the system. So I went to the FoW online store to check and see if I could build a decent army, some infantrie, some field guns, maybe some StuHs and to say I was surprised at the cost of this hobby would be an understatement. So.. is there a way I can get a decent army without throwing three or four hundred for one army? e-bay or similar. The second hand value of miniatures is pretty low, even though it is not as much of drop for metal historical miniatures as it is for plastic Warhammer ones. But you should be able to shave off some money by looking at various online resources like e-bay, The Miniatures Page's auctions, or bartertown.com. But the big answer here is that most (sane) people doesn't start out buying an entire army at once, but slowly gather a force unit by unit and start playing at smaller points values. It makes the cost a lot more easy to deal with.
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Jan 22, 2011 10:18
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You may find also, with building/buying an army over time, that you'll keep your will to paint intact along with your will to live. If you're anything like me, then seeing piles upon piles of lead is overwhelming and none of it will get done! I just bought about 1000 6mm dudes for the beginnings of my new Field of Glory: Renaissance armies, and I'm thinking I should have bought less to get a feel for the era (and the fact that I probably already have about that much unpainted Napoleonics guys sitting around). Speaking of FoG:R, anyone else pick it up? I'm impressed with the conversion from Ancients/Medieval to Pike and Shot warfare, and I was less than enthusiastic when I heard they were also eventually doing a Napoleonic version, but this revives my faith in that prospect some.
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Jan 22, 2011 17:16
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Sokrateez posted:You may find also, with building/buying an army over time, that you'll keep your will to paint intact along with your will to live. If you're anything like me, then seeing piles upon piles of lead is overwhelming and none of it will get done! I just bought about 1000 6mm dudes for the beginnings of my new Field of Glory: Renaissance armies, and I'm thinking I should have bought less to get a feel for the era (and the fact that I probably already have about that much unpainted Napoleonics guys sitting around). I want to pick it up and try using it for my samurai gaming, but all my gaming funds are currently diverted into getting stuff for casting. That said, I built a vibrating board out of a cutting board and a massage machine today, and I'm about to finish a modular 6mm japanese wall system. Hopefully I'll be able to do some cool castings next week.
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Jan 22, 2011 17:50
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I was just wondering, would it be stupid to use PVA glue to fill the gap of space between a FoW soldier's metal base and the plastic base the models are all put on? As in to build up the ground? What are other cheap alternatives?
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Jan 30, 2011 13:42
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KongGeorgeVII posted:I was just wondering, would it be stupid to use PVA glue to fill the gap of space between a FoW soldier's metal base and the plastic base the models are all put on? As in to build up the ground? What are other cheap alternatives? Spackle is a good way to go. PVA would take forever and a bunch of layers.
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Jan 30, 2011 15:07
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KongGeorgeVII posted:I was just wondering, would it be stupid to use PVA glue to fill the gap of space between a FoW soldier's metal base and the plastic base the models are all put on? As in to build up the ground? What are other cheap alternatives? vallejo grey pumice texture paste (it's just paint with sand in it, to be honest) works well if you use it quite thickly.
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Jan 30, 2011 17:17
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