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I'm going to run Cat 6 throughout my house. I won't be running in air-conditioning vents. Do I need plenum cable?
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Jan 27, 2011 16:47
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apoptosis posted:I'm going to run Cat 6 throughout my house. I won't be running in air-conditioning vents. Do I need plenum cable? Nope! You can use any non-plenum UL-approved cable.
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Jan 27, 2011 19:56
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How can I make a stop for my keyboard tray's rails? I bought a desk from Staples, but it doesn't come with any kind of thing to make it so the keyboard will lock when pulled out. I get pissed when I slide it back in by accident when typing or swiveling my chair. I would bolt it in place but I do need to push it back in when not in use. The rails looks pretty generic, they just don't have any stopping mechanism. Any clever ideas?
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Jan 29, 2011 01:16
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House Party 4 posted:How can I make a stop for my keyboard tray's rails? Single dab of 2-part epoxy on each rail. If it's too big of a dot, sand it down. JBWeld, plastidip, etc, may also work.
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Jan 29, 2011 02:55
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Very interesting... Thanks!
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Jan 29, 2011 03:09
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I want to make this chain clock http://scienceblogs.com/sciencepunk/clock.jpg What kind of electric motor do I need to get and how do I make it turn exactly at the correct speed?
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Jan 29, 2011 16:07
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Get a small low speed dc electric, gear the gently caress out of it to slow it down then: 1: Time how many teeth pass in an hour. 2: Gear it down a bunch more. 3: Space the numbers that many links apart. Edit: vvv That second part is better advice. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Jan 29, 2011 |
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Jan 29, 2011 22:27
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Fedaykin posted:I want to make this chain clock http://scienceblogs.com/sciencepunk/clock.jpg What kind of electric motor do I need to get and how do I make it turn exactly at the correct speed? Get a 60Hz synchronous motor and then use gears to gear it down to the correct rate. Or, buy a clock movement and put a sprocket on the "hour hand" part.
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Jan 29, 2011 22:28
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Or, buy a clock movement and put a sprocket on the "hour hand" part.
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Jan 29, 2011 22:31
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Which of these options will be the most accurate. If it isn't exact enough it will be off after only a few days.
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Jan 29, 2011 22:54
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grover posted:Keep it simple. Do you guys mean the minute hand? The hour hand only makes two rotations a day which seems inadequate.
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Jan 29, 2011 22:57
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Would a quartz movement be strong enough to move a chain like that? Clock hands are generally pretty light.
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Jan 29, 2011 23:08
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Fedaykin posted:Do you guys mean the minute hand? The hour hand only makes two rotations a day which seems inadequate.
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Jan 29, 2011 23:08
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I need to put up some fence posts in my backyard and I was wondering how warm it has to be for the cement to dry properly? I live in NC so its not *too* cold. Today the high is going to be 60 and the low is going to be 35. The average for the next month is going to be highs in the mid 50's and lows in the low 30's. I'd like to get them in asap so I can put up my fence so my chickens stop getting out of my yard.
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Jan 30, 2011 16:22
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Alterian posted:I need to put up some fence posts in my backyard and I was wondering how warm it has to be for the cement to dry properly? I live in NC so its not *too* cold. Today the high is going to be 60 and the low is going to be 35. The average for the next month is going to be highs in the mid 50's and lows in the low 30's. I'd like to get them in asap so I can put up my fence so my chickens stop getting out of my yard.
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Jan 30, 2011 16:30
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My gas furnace has recently gone weird on me. I'll come home and it will be audibly running, but the house is down to 50º AND the house smells like...that smell when you just blow out a candle. Turning the thermostat on and off again will get it heating again. The first time, that solved the problem, after a while it needed to happen every day...now it needs to be done every few hours. Things I've done: -replaced the filter -looked inside. The electric ignition is igniting. -Theres a small electric motor (about the size of a can of soup) that drives a fan. It runs, but shudders a little on start up and stop. What next?
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Jan 31, 2011 03:32
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Alterian posted:I need to put up some fence posts in my backyard and I was wondering how warm it has to be for the cement to dry properly? I live in NC so its not *too* cold. Today the high is going to be 60 and the low is going to be 35. The average for the next month is going to be highs in the mid 50's and lows in the low 30's. I'd like to get them in asap so I can put up my fence so my chickens stop getting out of my yard. I'd stay away from cement with fence posts unless you're only planning on living where you're at for 10 years or less, all it will do is rot out your posts over time since rain will get the board wet and go below the cement line. What happens is the water seeps in and over time creates dry rot because cement doesn't breathe and the board doesn't dry out. Best thing to do is get pressure treated 4x4's and reuse the dirt you'd be taking out with post hole diggers or get new dirt, toss some dirt in, then pack it in around the post, more dirt, pack down further. I've had fence posts last between 7 and 20 years cemented in depending on rain conditions but using dirt and packing it down I've not had a fence post go bad yet and I'm working on 25 years with one of my fences. edit: Another option is pea gravel. Just do yourself a favor and don't use cement. keykey fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Jan 31, 2011 |
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Jan 31, 2011 17:58
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keykey posted:I'd stay away from cement with fence posts unless you're only planning on living where you're at for 10 years or less, all it will do is rot out your posts over time since rain will get the board wet and go below the cement line. What happens is the water seeps in and over time creates dry rot because cement doesn't breathe and the board doesn't dry out. Best thing to do is get pressure treated 4x4's and reuse the dirt you'd be taking out with post hole diggers or get new dirt, toss some dirt in, then pack it in around the post, more dirt, pack down further. I've had fence posts last between 7 and 20 years cemented in depending on rain conditions but using dirt and packing it down I've not had a fence post go bad yet and I'm working on 25 years with one of my fences. My father solved that problem when he built our deck by laying miniature cement slabs and resting the wood on top of them. Its been 15 years since he did it and the wood's still looking good!
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Jan 31, 2011 18:56
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Corla Plankun posted:My father solved that problem when he built our deck by laying miniature cement slabs and resting the wood on top of them. Its been 15 years since he did it and the wood's still looking good! If you're going to do that, you may as well use a floating concrete pier system. they cheap, easy, and the wood fits into notches. Not for fences, though.
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Jan 31, 2011 18:59
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keykey posted:edit: Another option is pea gravel. Just do yourself a favor and don't use cement. My dad's used pea gravel with good results on a number of projects like this.
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Jan 31, 2011 19:20
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Optimal solution would be a metal anchor that would keep the post up off the ground. You sink the prongs into wet concrete, let it set, then bolt your post
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Feb 1, 2011 02:46
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So my bathroom drain is backed up and I'm not sure how to proceed without permanently loving it up. It's an old rear end cast iron thing that looks something like this:  Click here for the full 665x284 image. Normally you'd just unscrew the plug and go from there, the problem is the loving thing is falling apart and the corners are already round. The only suggestion I've gotten is to drill straight through it and that's almost impossible due to the weird angle it's in.
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Feb 1, 2011 09:08
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Klaus Kinski posted:So my bathroom drain is backed up and I'm not sure how to proceed without permanently loving it up. I am going to guess that is the floor drain in your bathroom. Have you tried just running a smaller snake through the floor drain itself?
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Feb 1, 2011 14:58
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keykey posted:I'd stay away from cement with fence posts unless you're only planning on living where you're at for 10 years or less, all it will do is rot out your posts over time since rain will get the board wet and go below the cement line. What happens is the water seeps in and over time creates dry rot because cement doesn't breathe and the board doesn't dry out. Best thing to do is get pressure treated 4x4's and reuse the dirt you'd be taking out with post hole diggers or get new dirt, toss some dirt in, then pack it in around the post, more dirt, pack down further. I've had fence posts last between 7 and 20 years cemented in depending on rain conditions but using dirt and packing it down I've not had a fence post go bad yet and I'm working on 25 years with one of my fences. An issue with packing dirt is frost heave. If you live in an area with frost heave and don't use cement below the frost line, get ready for a wobbly crooked fence in 2-5 years. You can help alleviate the rotting issue by using pressure treated posts and gravel as a base before putting the post/cement in the hole. You can also help prevent rot by ensuring proper drainage away from posts and not allow standing/pooling water around the posts with proper land grading.
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Feb 1, 2011 19:27
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dwoloz posted:Optimal solution would be a metal anchor that would keep the post up off the ground. You sink the prongs into wet concrete, let it set, then bolt your post These a great for small 4x4 posts on small fences or deck supports, but I would be hesitant to trust them to maintain and resist any kind of medium/heavy wind gusts.
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Feb 1, 2011 19:31
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Ahz posted:An issue with packing dirt is frost heave. If you live in an area with frost heave and don't use cement below the frost line, get ready for a wobbly crooked fence in 2-5 years. Meh, I've set my fair share of posts in my day and I've never had an issue setting them in soil 2-3 feet down. If you're worried about frost jacking, you can wrap the post in poly. I also am not a big fan of using pea gravel. It doesn't compact well enough to ensure that the post will be stable.
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Feb 1, 2011 20:42
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Ahz posted:These a great for small 4x4 posts on small fences or deck supports, but I would be hesitant to trust them to maintain and resist any kind of medium/heavy wind gusts. Once that metal is set in concrete, it's not going anywhere
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Feb 2, 2011 04:14
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dwoloz posted:Once that metal is set in concrete, it's not going anywhere
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Feb 2, 2011 04:25
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grover posted:It's rated for 1300lbs. Anyone wanna do the math to figure out windspeed and the PSI it would put on a fence.
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Feb 2, 2011 05:08
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dwoloz posted:Optimal solution would be a metal anchor that would keep the post up off the ground. You sink the prongs into wet concrete, let it set, then bolt your post Wouldn't you put the post, or at least some sort of long straight stick in there before putting it in the concrete to make sure your posts are plumb? Seems like if you just stuck these in concrete, then bolted in your posts once they are set, your posts would be crooked as hell.
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Feb 2, 2011 09:29
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SkunkDuster posted:Wouldn't you put the post, or at least some sort of long straight stick in there before putting it in the concrete to make sure your posts are plumb? Seems like if you just stuck these in concrete, then bolted in your posts once they are set, your posts would be crooked as hell. There is some wiggle room for adjustment when you screw/nail in the post that will take up small bits of slack.
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Feb 2, 2011 11:35
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I bought a nice piece of property in September with a mobile home on it. Unfortunately I couldn't finance it due to great disrepair so it was purchases as-is through a private loan. I got a letter from the Health Department requiring a septic system inspection. I uncovered the septic tank and it is in really bad shape. It's a 5x7 ft concrete tank with no top. There were boards, roofing shingles, a tarp and tin sheets covering it in addition to dirt and weeds. The inlet looks fine but the outlet is broken and in bad shape. There's lots of cracks in the walls and I'm pretty sure it's just seeping out the sides rather than doing what it's supposed. I have an inspector coming today. I made the appointment prior to uncovering it. I was thinking of canceling the inspection, getting it pumped, filling the cracks with hydraulic cement and redoing the the drain field. Then I either cap it with something similar, or pour a cement lid to move into place. However, I don't know if this will still be acceptable and a whole new setup might need to be built. The reason is because I'm next to a large creek. When the tank was built 50+ years ago, the creek was 100 ft away. Now it's about 15-20 ft away with the drainpipe running parallel to it. I don't want to do the retrofit work to have the whole thing condemned. I can re-direct the drain field away from it. Any advice?
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Feb 2, 2011 16:25
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Other than exterior house paint, what's a good paint to use for something outdoors? It's a very small something, so I don't think house paint would be economical.
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Feb 3, 2011 07:23
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stubblyhead posted:Other than exterior house paint, what's a good paint to use for something outdoors? It's a very small something, so I don't think house paint would be economical. Wood? Metal? Plastic? Brick? Stone?
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Feb 3, 2011 08:15
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stubblyhead posted:Other than exterior house paint, what's a good paint to use for something outdoors? It's a very small something, so I don't think house paint would be economical. Rattlecan that sumbitch with Krylon! Seriously though, what dimensions and material are you working with?
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Feb 3, 2011 17:40
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Yeah I guess materials would have been good to know. Some stone and some wood. We had a pet die recently and it's for a little memorial to put in the garden.
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Feb 3, 2011 18:30
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What's a decent, common (available at most brick and mortar stores easily) wet/dry shopvac which can be used on wet carpet that can still be taken home in a sedan? Same question for a dehumidifier.
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Feb 3, 2011 20:08
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mlmp08 posted:What's a decent, common (available at most brick and mortar stores easily) wet/dry shopvac which can be used on wet carpet that can still be taken home in a sedan? Same question for a dehumidifier. The Ridgid 14 gallon professional model at Home Depot is pretty sweet. It's about $100. Dehumidifier...not sure. Now you need to tell us how you flooded your basement.
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Feb 3, 2011 20:50
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mlmp08 posted:What's a decent, common (available at most brick and mortar stores easily) wet/dry shopvac which can be used on wet carpet that can still be taken home in a sedan? Same question for a dehumidifier. I got a Sears Kenmore dehumidifier a few years back that I've been happy with. It looks like they've revamped the casing, but the basics look about the same. Manual on/off or automatic based on desired humidity or timed cycles. You can hook up the outflow to a hose and snake it outside too so you don't have to worry about the bucket filling up. Reasonably quiet too. Richard Noggin posted:Now you need to tell us how you flooded your basement. Also looking forward to this story.
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Feb 3, 2011 21:37
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The story is pretty simple. In the Southwest, home builders don't know poo poo about cold weather and so having weather below freezing for merely 3-4 days and 2-3 inches of snow was enough to end up with entire neighborhoods without water, multiple electrical outages, and a pipe bursting in my wall and flooding my bedroom. I understand that it's typically warm down here, but seriously? I mean, the north manages to have months on end of freezing weather without pipes bursting and basic infrastructure falling apart.
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Feb 4, 2011 00:44
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