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atomicthumbs posted:Freestyle Photo is pretty much the best place to buy film and paper and chemicals and stuff, right? Not necessarily, unless you're talking about the Arista/Legacy stuff, which you can only buy there. I see stuff for similar prices or a little cheaper elsewhere, but usually wind up ordering everything from Freestyle because I'm lazy and combined shipping.
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Jan 31, 2011 21:09
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atomicthumbs posted:Freestyle Photo is pretty much the best place to buy film and paper and chemicals and stuff, right? They are pretty awesome, but shop around. For instance they are the cheapest online source of Fuji 3000b but Amazon was cheaper on 100c. Local stores aren't always a bad option either. It's only slightly more expensive for me to buy color 120 film in my local proshop than it is buy online.
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Jan 31, 2011 21:36
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A bit of a cross post from the SAD thread. I recently got some Adox 100 CHS film, it apparently made with 1950's technology to give that old look, so I had to give it a go. Here are some results processed in Rodinal and shot with my Weltaflex: X not V by mr_student, on Flickr  Through the houses by mr_student, on Flickr  Watching by mr_student, on Flickr I quite like the look, the old town of Anstruther suited it well.
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Feb 1, 2011 00:05
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Nice! I just got 2 rolls of that as well. What film size is that, 35mm?
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Feb 1, 2011 01:48
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HPL posted:A 28 and a 50 will go a long way. See if you can find a Tamron adapter for the Konica then get a Tamron 90mm f/2.5 macro to round out the kit. Sticking with the Konica primes I have is really good advice. Not quite sure why I didn't follow it.   A $30 1.4 was too good to pass up.
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Feb 1, 2011 07:17
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Rednik posted:Nice! I just got 2 rolls of that as well. What film size is that, 35mm? Cheers! That's 120 size, the say be careful when handling as the film is quite thin, but I didn't find it to too fragile.
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Feb 1, 2011 09:10
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Dr. Cogwerks posted:That is complete bullshit. If they're got send-out mailers, just write 'E-6 120' in the Special Instructions field and don't talk to the employees. Walmart will do it if Walgreens refuses, though I'm pretty sure that both stores have a contract with Fuji for send-out service... which usually ends up going to Dwayne's Photo in Kansas. Thanks, I went up to Walmart with no problem. I wouldn't have minded sending these rolls to Dwayne's myself, but the slight savings in not sending it to Dwayne's myself spoke louder, especially since one of the rolls is just a test roll sent through a new camera. So I'll let Walmart do it for me. I have a handful of slide film left, I might just get the chemicals and develop the rest of them myself.
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Feb 1, 2011 17:27
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I'm going to try and make some fiber paper prints. It seems to go develop -> stop -> fix -> hypo-wash -> wash? Afterwards, I need to dry them (is horizontal drying in a rack OK or only hanging?) and then press them. Do I have this right? I've only done RC prints so far.
Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Feb 1, 2011 |
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Feb 1, 2011 19:44
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Paul MaudDib posted:I'm going to try and make some fiber paper prints. It seems to go develop -> stop -> fix -> hypo-wash -> wash? Afterwards, I need to dry them (is horizontal drying in a rack OK or only hanging?) and then press them. Do I have this right? I've only done RC prints so far. Sounds about right. A horizontal rack works fine for drying. Honestly I've never hung my fiber prints so I don't even know which is better. At the lab I go to, the drying and pressing happens on the same machine, a bigass heated drum thing.
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Feb 1, 2011 19:59
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McMadCow posted:Sounds about right. A horizontal rack works fine for drying. Honestly I've never hung my fiber prints so I don't even know which is better. At the lab I go to, the drying and pressing happens on the same machine, a bigass heated drum thing. Yeah we have one of those. So I don't need to dry it before putting it in the press?
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Feb 1, 2011 20:02
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Paul MaudDib posted:Yeah we have one of those. So I don't need to dry it before putting it in the press? Nah, just squeegee any water off of it. It goes in damp and comes out dry and (mostly) flat.
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Feb 1, 2011 20:14
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Oll raigth, I'm buying the rest of my supplies from Freestyle. I'm trying to get a variety of developers; I already have a gallon of D-76 (from my class's supply list), but I'm trying to get a nice spread of other stuff. I'm mostly going to be shooting Pan F+, FP4+, and HP5+; I've got Diafine in the cart (and am planning to get Rodinal). What other stuff should I get? I'd like to avoid powders if possible, but if that's unavoidable for a developer I should get, it's fine. Also, does anyone know if Freestyle has anything that's appropriate to develop Tech Pan?
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Feb 1, 2011 20:33
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HC-110 is good for HP-5+ and Tri-X and lasts forever. Xtol seems like an excellent all-around developer. If you're shooting 35mm, dump the HP5+ and buy Arista Premium 400 (rebranded Kodak Tri-X) instead. Legacy Pro 100 is Fuji Acros, which is another awesome film. It goes well with Rodinal and (supposedly) with Microdol-X, which is officially discontinued but Freestyle carries as LegacyPro Mic-X
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Feb 1, 2011 20:41
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Paul MaudDib posted:HC-110 is good for HP-5+ and Tri-X and lasts forever. Xtol seems like an excellent all-around developer. If you're shooting 35mm, dump the HP5+ and buy Arista Premium 400 (rebranded Kodak Tri-X) instead. Legacy Pro 100 is Fuji Acros, which is another awesome film. It goes well with Rodinal and (supposedly) with Microdol-X, which is officially discontinued but Freestyle carries as LegacyPro Mic-X I'm shooting medium format; does this change anything else? Edit: And this is Rodinal, right? atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Feb 1, 2011 |
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Feb 1, 2011 20:44
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Yeah, XTOL is great for push developing and does give a slightly finer grain than HC-110, but if you're not shooting a lot of film, I'd get HC-110 because of the shelf life. I bought some HC-110 over a year ago and it's still good. HC-110 is also slightly faster to develop than XTOL, so there's that bonus if you're impatient.
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Feb 1, 2011 20:52
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Paul MaudDib posted:If you're shooting 35mm, dump the HP5+ and buy Arista Premium 400 (rebranded Kodak Tri-X) instead.
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Feb 1, 2011 21:37
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evil_bunnY posted:Are you just saying this because of the price difference? I like hp5+ 8( Is there something specific you like about HP5 over Tri-X? I've never been able to tell the difference myself, aside from maybe HP5 having slightly larger grain. Maybe. Unrelated, but I had the weirdest thing happen to me the other day. I was on a shoot and I put a few rolls of Arista.EDU 100 through both my medium format cameras. When I developed them both later on, one of the rolls was fogged. Not unusably so, but still obviously fogged in a way that will require compensation on the enlarger. Now, I shot them through different cameras, but developed them in the same tank at the same time. What confuses me is the quality of the fog. It's basically completely even over the entire roll, not fogged on the sides or in streaks like a light leak or improper loading would indicate. This is just a general level of exposure over the whole thing. Has anyone seen this before?
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Feb 1, 2011 22:05
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McMadCow posted:Is there something specific you like about HP5 over Tri-X? I've never been able to tell the difference myself, aside from maybe HP5 having slightly larger grain. Maybe. Is it possible that the meter/shutter on one of your cameras has gone wonky?
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Feb 1, 2011 22:44
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Cannister posted:Is it possible that the meter/shutter on one of your cameras has gone wonky? Well, it is a 50-year-old camera (Rolleiflex), but that wouldn't explain the fog outside of the frame. The fog is completely uniform over the whole of the roll of film. Inside and outside of the frames.
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Feb 1, 2011 22:46
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McMadCow posted:Well, it is a 50-year-old camera (Rolleiflex), but that wouldn't explain the fog outside of the frame. The fog is completely uniform over the whole of the roll of film. Inside and outside of the frames. Then I vote it was a bad roll of film, if it was developed in the same tank with the same chemicals as the other. Or maybe it was somehow mislabeled and was actually a different film which needed longer development times?
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Feb 1, 2011 22:55
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atomicthumbs posted:I'm shooting medium format; does this change anything else? Yeah, Freestyle doesn't have generic 120. For 120, real Acros ($2.89/roll) and real Tri-X ($3.75 a roll or so) aren't that bad. That is indeed Rodinal, they also make R09 Special which is like Rodinal Special (different from the original). McMadCow posted:Well, it is a 50-year-old camera (Rolleiflex), but that wouldn't explain the fog outside of the frame. The fog is completely uniform over the whole of the roll of film. Inside and outside of the frames. That's mysterious. Anything I can think of would affect the whole roll would probably affect the edges first. Did you have any trouble loading it on the reel, maybe your darkroom isn't perfectly light-tight and you inadvertently fogged it? Were the two rolls identical (i.e. one wasn't expired or subjected to a lot of heat)? I normally hesitate to say this, but it sounds like Foma hosed up.
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Feb 1, 2011 22:57
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Paul MaudDib posted:That's mysterious. Anything I can think of would affect the whole roll would probably affect the edges first. Did you have any trouble loading it on the reel, I had a bit of an issue loading it into the Rollei, but nothing unravelled and the roll wasn't even wound out to the arrows before I started over. It shouldn't have fogged it at all. And if something somehow got through, it would mark the edges first, not the uniform fog I see all over it. Paul MaudDib posted:maybe your darkroom isn't perfectly light-tight and you inadvertently fogged it? Were the two rolls identical (i.e. one wasn't expired or subjected to a lot of heat)? I normally hesitate to say this, but it sounds like Foma hosed up. My darkroom ISN'T perfectly light-tight, but it's drat close and I've never fogged anything before. And as you said, I loaded them both into the reel at the same time. I would think the other one would show some evidence of it as well but it's perfectly clean. The two rolls were identical, yes. I don't know if they're both from the same lot number, but I got them both from Freestyle at the same time. They were both stored in my backpack. Like I said, it's not completely ruined, but it's going to make for some challenging printing. It's a mystery!
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Feb 1, 2011 23:19
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McMadCow posted:Well, it is a 50-year-old camera (Rolleiflex), but that wouldn't explain the fog outside of the frame. The fog is completely uniform over the whole of the roll of film. Inside and outside of the frames. Was it overcast? You might have gotten some fog inside your camera. They're supposed to be airtight to prevent that.
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Feb 2, 2011 00:48
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atomicthumbs posted:Was it overcast? You might have gotten some fog inside your camera. They're supposed to be airtight to prevent that. I... what...? 
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Feb 2, 2011 00:56
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McMadCow posted:I... what...? Yeah, you need one of these to get it back out.
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Feb 2, 2011 01:12
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I was just going to put it in a kiln for a few hours.
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Feb 2, 2011 01:14
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Paul MaudDib posted:HC-110 is good for HP-5+ and Tri-X and lasts forever. Xtol seems like an excellent all-around developer. If you're shooting 35mm, dump the HP5+ and buy Arista Premium 400 (rebranded Kodak Tri-X) instead. Legacy Pro 100 is Fuji Acros, which is another awesome film. It goes well with Rodinal and (supposedly) with Microdol-X, which is officially discontinued but Freestyle carries as LegacyPro Mic-X Does your arista prem.400 curl to all hell? Mine does no matter what I do. Other than that, I like it.
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Feb 2, 2011 01:49
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McMadCow posted:Is there something specific you like about HP5 over Tri-X? I've never been able to tell the difference myself, aside from maybe HP5 having slightly larger grain. Maybe. I find HP5 is a little better than Tri-X at the high end, especially when you're cranking it to 3200. Studebaker Hawk posted:Does your arista prem.400 curl to all hell? Mine does no matter what I do. Other than that, I like it. Dry it with a hairdryer. That'll help keep it from curling as much and if you're really good with your technique, it'll dry dead flat.
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Feb 2, 2011 02:19
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HPL posted:I find HP5 is a little better than Tri-X at the high end, especially when you're cranking it to 3200. Ah, ok. I can count on my fingers how many times I've ever done a push. Sounds like that could be pretty important to know.
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Feb 2, 2011 02:24
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McMadCow posted:Ah, ok. I can count on my fingers how many times I've ever done a push. Sounds like that could be pretty important to know. HP5 is also a tad less contrasty than Tri-X, but for all intents and purposes they're largely interchangeable.
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Feb 2, 2011 02:27
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Sooo I might have just gone on some kind of rampage and got a lot of film cameras. Can't wait to sort through them though  I know there's at least a k1000, minolta srt201, and of course, there's that Olympus om-1 from rednik that should be coming in. Time to stock up on 35mm.
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Feb 2, 2011 03:09
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nonanone posted:Sooo I might have just gone on some kind of rampage and got a lot of film cameras. Can't wait to sort through them though What, 35mm? You know you want to start a medium format collection.  You know what they say, the first one is often moderately priced...(get a developing tank, put in a Freestyle order for LegacyPro 100 and Arista Premium 400, go hog wild with cheap film)
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Feb 2, 2011 04:19
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nonanone posted:Sooo I might have just gone on some kind of rampage and got a lot of film cameras. Can't wait to sort through them though I love the Olympus OM series. I want to get an OM-1N with the 50mm f/1.2.
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Feb 2, 2011 05:13
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Paul MaudDib posted:What, 35mm? You know you want to start a medium format collection. I've... already started the medium format collection too, it doesn't help that my photog friends let me borrow their's all the time too, right now I've been fooling around with his super ikonta. Also I almost bought a pentax 67, but my partner balked at that one, haha. I'm just happy I haven't even touched large format yet. Yet.
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Feb 2, 2011 05:17
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I've been comparing 35mm development/scanning costs lately, and here is what I have come up with. The four places I got estimates from are Dwaynes of Kansas, North Coast Photographic Services of California, Manhattan Color Labs of New York, and my local lab in New Jersey.code:So if you wanted your 35mm color negatives developed and scanned at the lab in NY it would cost $13, unless you have a student discount and then you save a dollar I think. At NCPS it would be $12. etc. etc. Overall, Dwayne's seems like the best bargain.
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Feb 2, 2011 05:40
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McMadCow posted:Is there something specific you like about HP5 over Tri-X? I've never been able to tell the difference myself, aside from maybe HP5 having slightly larger grain. Maybe.
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Feb 2, 2011 08:30
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I just ordered an EOS 3 from KEH. It's been almost 8 years since I shot film, so I'm pumped for this  I already have an Epson V500 from when I digitized all my mom's Kodachrome slides, so I'm going to be doing my own scanning.I mostly shoot landscapes but I do some people shots too. I'm thinking the best general-purpose color film for pictures outside would be Ektar 100? Also thinking Portra 400NC might fit my needs for higher-speed film. Is color balance something I need to worry about if I'm shooting indoors?
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Feb 2, 2011 21:36
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nonanone posted:I've... already started the medium format collection too, it doesn't help that my photog friends let me borrow their's all the time too, right now I've been fooling around with his super ikonta. Also I almost bought a pentax 67, but my partner balked at that one, haha. I'm just happy I haven't even touched large format yet. Yet. I know the feeling. I started with a K1000SE for a photo class, snagged a great deal on a Pentax 67, and it's been downhill since then. I'm powerless to resist good deals.  Recently I've started collecting stuff for a large format kit, but I still need a developing tank. Which Super Ikonta model and how do you like it? I like my Ikonta B (with Novar), but guess-focusing adds another place for me to screw up and I haven't seen a Super for a price I couldn't refuse yet.
Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Feb 2, 2011 |
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Feb 2, 2011 22:28
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Paul MaudDib posted:I know the feeling. I started with a K1000SE for a photo class, snagged a great deal on a Pentax 67, and it's been downhill since then. I'm powerless to resist good deals. If you only shoot a few sheets at a time, you might want to look into BTZS tubes. TBH the Combi is kind of clunky and since I don't do stand I wind up pouring the developer in/out in the darkroom because I'm concerned with how long the tank takes to fill/drain. For 6 sheets at a time and no trays I put up with it, but if/when I start 8x10 I'm definitely going with the tubes (not that a Combi is even an option at that size). Pompous Rhombus fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Feb 2, 2011 |
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Feb 2, 2011 22:41
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Pompous Rhombus posted:If you only shoot a few sheets at a time, you might want to look into BTZS tubes. TBH the Combi is kind of clunky and since I don't do stand I wind up pouring the developer in/out in the darkroom because I'm concerned with how long the tank takes to fill/drain. For 6 sheets at a time and no trays I put up with it, but if/when I start 8x10 I'm definitely going with the tubes (not that a Combi is even an option at that size). I was actually looking at the Mod Photographic reels. You get 6 sheets at a time in a 3-reel Paterson tank, but the reels alone are about $90 after shipping. On the other hand, they seem to be pretty reliable, unlike a Combi. I need a bigger tank anyway since right now I'm doing one roll of 120 at a time in my 2-reel tank, but they're hard to find used. I could also DIY some BTZS tubes (what does this stand for anyway?) but I'd also need a roller which is just as expensive as the tank. I think the cheapest option to get shooting is to get some slide film and a changing bag. It's also probably the best because I don't have a scanner that will handle LF without stitching. I've still got a ways to go until my kit is ready. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Feb 2, 2011 |
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Feb 2, 2011 22:57
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