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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Have you actually put channel locks on it lightly and tightened it just a little bit more? No, the instructions said hand tight plus 1/4 turn. I did crank it down pretty good the second time around though. I'll try the wrench and dope next. Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Ya a pic would be great. There could be a couple of reasons. The stand pipe may not be tall enough. The pipe size may be wrong . Or there may be a clog in the pipe. .JPG) .JPG) .JPG)
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Jan 19, 2011 09:20
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vwman18 posted:No, the instructions said hand tight plus 1/4 turn. I did crank it down pretty good the second time around though. I'll try the wrench and dope next. Sounds like you may have a clog in the pipe itself. You can run a snake down it and try to get past the p trap or use a cleaning bladder that they sell at home depot. Are the suds coming out of the stand pipe itself or a near by floor drain?
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Jan 19, 2011 20:36
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I assume from the pipe itself, I haven't been able to catch it as it's happening. There is no floor drain in the laundry room and the area around the recessed drain is completely dry.
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Jan 20, 2011 00:11
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vwman18 posted:I assume from the pipe itself, I haven't been able to catch it as it's happening. There is no floor drain in the laundry room and the area around the recessed drain is completely dry. You may have to wait around see exactly where its coming from to narrow down the problem.
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Jan 20, 2011 01:53
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My parents have a single handle shower/no tub at their house that doesn't have hot water and I can't figure out why. It's in their addition, so it's about 10-11 years old and it did have hot water in the past, just not now. In fact the hot and cold were backwards, so I was going to turn the cartridge 180 degrees to correct that. When I went to check it however, the water never got hot. I messed around with the valves to the addition to no avail. I even went so far as to turn off the cold water valve for the addition and left the hot open. Every sink in the addition then had only hot water and no cold water. Then, just for a test, I tried pulling the shower cartridge out slowly until I got a spray of water out. There was none. I pulled the cartridge all the way out with the hot water line still open and there was a very small trickle, if that. It wasn't even warm either. I checked and there are no shower-only valves anywhere. How do I fix a problem like that?
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Jan 21, 2011 01:32
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kid sinister posted:My parents have a single handle shower/no tub at their house that doesn't have hot water and I can't figure out why. It's in their addition, so it's about 10-11 years old and it did have hot water in the past, just not now. In fact the hot and cold were backwards, so I was going to turn the cartridge 180 degrees to correct that. When I went to check it however, the water never got hot. Could be any number of things clogging the hot line. You can use compressed air to shoot in the hot side of the cartridge back to the water heater (disconnect the flex from the water heater so you don't shoot what ever poo poo back in to the water heater. And most likely when you pull a flex you will have to replace it or at least replace the rubbers in it.) Ive seen dip tube chunks clog a shower valve. If you pull the aerator in the sink on the addition it will give you an idea of what debris is in the shower line also. Usually the shower line clogs first because its run the longest and its the highest gpm fixture in a bathroom. If you see white chunks in the aerator of the lavatory. Then its dip tube.
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Jan 21, 2011 04:07
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Could be any number of things clogging the hot line. You can use compressed air to shoot in the hot side of the cartridge back to the water heater (disconnect the flex from the water heater so you don't shoot what ever poo poo back in to the water heater. And most likely when you pull a flex you will have to replace it or at least replace the rubbers in it.) My dad does have a portable air compressor... What fittings would attach it to the shower's cartridge housing? Better yet, what PSI setting should I use?
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Jan 21, 2011 17:44
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kid sinister posted:My dad does have a portable air compressor... What fittings would attach it to the shower's cartridge housing? Better yet, what PSI setting should I use? We just use a blow out gun like this. http://www.amazon.com/5-PIECE-AIR-BLOW-GUN-ATTACHMENTS/dp/B0017JSD34/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1295630367&sr=8-8 Psi you should be safe doing 70 - 100 psi. So blow into the valve itself towards the water heater. Then go to the water heater and blow into the hot line there. Do this a couple times. Then the hot water back up and flush the system. Remember though when you use the hot water heater to flush it. You will have to block the cold side of the valve with your finger while someone turns on the water. If you don't the cold water will just run and it won't come out of tank.
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Jan 21, 2011 18:28
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Is there an easy way to permanently seal up a toilet drain that is not being used? In my house, there is what I was told was once a toilet drain in the basement. It is currently used as drainage for the air conditioning, and is only plugged up with a towel. Is there any way I can seal it, but also have my air conditioning continue to drain into it? If not, can I at least seal it permanently?
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Jan 21, 2011 21:13
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Inept posted:Is there an easy way to permanently seal up a toilet drain that is not being used? In my house, there is what I was told was once a toilet drain in the basement. It is currently used as drainage for the air conditioning, and is only plugged up with a towel. Is there any way I can seal it, but also have my air conditioning continue to drain into it? If not, can I at least seal it permanently? Not really. It would be better to dig it up and put a p trap on it so sewer gasses wont come out of the pipe and make your basement stink like rear end.
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Jan 21, 2011 22:14
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:You may have to wait around see exactly where its coming from to narrow down the problem. I finally had a chance yesterday to wait around for it. The suds are definitely coming out of the top of the PVC tube. Near the end of the spin cycle, it starts bubbling up and you wind up with a little more than a big handful of suds on the floor. Is there a way for me to seal the drain hose better?
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Jan 23, 2011 14:01
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vwman18 posted:I finally had a chance yesterday to wait around for it. The suds are definitely coming out of the top of the PVC tube. Near the end of the spin cycle, it starts bubbling up and you wind up with a little more than a big handful of suds on the floor. Is there a way for me to seal the drain hose better? It sounds as if there is a problem with the drain itself. I'd use a drain bladder sold at lowes or home depot to shoot through it. http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Products-332-Cleaning-Attachment/dp/B000KKOZ6A Get one that will fit inside a 2 inch pipe. Attach to a house with a ball valve of some sort. So you can turn the bladder off quickly if there is a problem. Also if there is any other drains on the same floor. Watch them to make sure you don't shoot water out of it. (rare cases does this happen. It only happens if you push the clog to the trunk line and it gets stuck there. But the water takes the easiest path and can come out of vents or other fixtures. For my shut off valve I use this with a shorter hose attached between the bladder and hose. It works nice because if there is a problem I can just let go of the handle instead of loving with a ball valve handle. http://www.amazon.com/Gilmour-Pistol-Nozzle-Threaded-573TF/dp/B00002N68C/ref=sr_1_16?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1295816048&sr=1-16
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Jan 23, 2011 21:53
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Inept posted:Is there an easy way to permanently seal up a toilet drain that is not being used? In my house, there is what I was told was once a toilet drain in the basement. It is currently used as drainage for the air conditioning, and is only plugged up with a towel. Is there any way I can seal it, but also have my air conditioning continue to drain into it? If not, can I at least seal it permanently? Google "wingnut pipe plug." Basically a big piece of rubber between two washers. Tighten the wingnut, and the rubber gets pressed outward, sealing the pipe. Come in a number of sizes, so measure the diameter of the drain pipe. Possibly not completely air tight, but pretty close, and better than a rag. I guess if you are really worried about the possibility of sewer gas coming in, take it out every couple months and pour a bucket of water down the drain.
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Jan 24, 2011 01:51
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artificialj posted:Google "wingnut pipe plug." Basically a big piece of rubber between two washers. Tighten the wingnut, and the rubber gets pressed outward, sealing the pipe. Come in a number of sizes, so measure the diameter of the drain pipe. The toilet line has no P trap in the slab. He'd have to drill out the twist plug to make the condensate line work in it.
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Jan 24, 2011 02:02
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Okay, toilet question. I don't know plumbing, so this is going to be really incomprehensible, but bear with me. We have a FluidMaster thingie in our tank- so no floater and rod or whatever. Coming from the FluidMaster is a black hose that goes directly into our overflow pipe. That hose started running constantly a few days ago. We attempted to turn off the water, but the valve on the wall was busted, so the landlord sent over their handyman. He had to replace the whole wall valve and replaced the FluidMaster, which fixed the problem... for about 24 hours. Now, we can at least cut the water off at the wall, but the issue started up again. At first, I thought my fiance was being paranoid when she told me, but sure enough, there is just a steady stream of water coming from the hose straight into the overflow pipe. If you look really closely, there are little "$" flowing out too... Anyway, nothing I do seems to cut the water off. I've tried lifting the arm, adjusting the water level adjuster thingie (which is pretty obnoxious on it's own). Nothing seems to stop the water from flowing away. Anyone have any ideas? We just have the whole thing turned off for now, but that toilet is the best one in the house. The other one is in a bathroom overtaken by cat litter boxes... Blech. He's going to be back on Tuesday anyway because he determined the pipes in the sink I was bitching about weeks ago were about to rust out. But he's a really nice guy and I hate to make him work on this thing again.
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Jan 24, 2011 18:14
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TShields posted:Okay, toilet question. I don't know plumbing, so this is going to be really incomprehensible, but bear with me. We have a FluidMaster thingie in our tank- so no floater and rod or whatever. Coming from the FluidMaster is a black hose that goes directly into our overflow pipe. That hose started running constantly a few days ago. We attempted to turn off the water, but the valve on the wall was busted, so the landlord sent over their handyman. He had to replace the whole wall valve and replaced the FluidMaster, which fixed the problem... for about 24 hours. Now, we can at least cut the water off at the wall, but the issue started up again. At first, I thought my fiance was being paranoid when she told me, but sure enough, there is just a steady stream of water coming from the hose straight into the overflow pipe. If you look really closely, there are little "$" flowing out too... Anyway, nothing I do seems to cut the water off. I've tried lifting the arm, adjusting the water level adjuster thingie (which is pretty obnoxious on it's own). Nothing seems to stop the water from flowing away. Anyone have any ideas? We just have the whole thing turned off for now, but that toilet is the best one in the house. The other one is in a bathroom overtaken by cat litter boxes... Blech. He's going to be back on Tuesday anyway because he determined the pipes in the sink I was bitching about weeks ago were about to rust out. But he's a really nice guy and I hate to make him work on this thing again. Well either you have a bad ball cock or you don't have the water adjust right. Are you sure the flapper is coming back down and sealing properly?
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Jan 24, 2011 19:26
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Well either you have a bad ball cock or you don't have the water adjust right. Are you sure the flapper is coming back down and sealing properly? Seems to be. Nothing I can do to the flapper seems to make it stop, I've fiddled with it for ages, but I'll mention it to him tomorrow. When he replaced the one we had, it definitely stopped for quite a while. And a "ball cock" just sounds dirty. You kiss your mother with that mouth? (No, honestly, I've heard of such a thing, but I have no idea what it is)
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Jan 24, 2011 19:30
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TShields posted:Seems to be. Nothing I can do to the flapper seems to make it stop, I've fiddled with it for ages, but I'll mention it to him tomorrow. When he replaced the one we had, it definitely stopped for quite a while. With out seeing a picture I can't say exactly what its doing. And google it, its a plumbing term.
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Jan 24, 2011 20:44
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Just how hosed am I? I own a ranch that's on a big loving hill. On the north side there is the kitchen on the first floor and a kitchenette in the finished basement. The kitchens share the same drain which is a 3 inch pipe. On the south side are the bathroom and those share a big fat drain that is connected to the sewer main. Well the kitchen drain is clogged. This has happened before. So I go to the basement where the kitchenette is and stick in my 25ft powered snake. Goes all the way in and never hits anything. Well gently caress. Ok. So I go buy a 50ft unpowered one as powered seem to be loving expensive. I get this thing: http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Products-30500-2-Inch-50-Foot/dp/B000KKOX9E but from home depot. First attempt I manage to get it about 40ft in, hit something, do my best to turn the thing - it's a loving nightmare by hand. After a few twists I pull it out and I got all kinds of nasty crap on the tip. So I figure I can get this fixed myself. Not so. Second try, about 30ft in the snake kinks and it's game over. No matter how I try to get it down the pipe, it just kinks more. I decide not bother with buying another snake and call a plumber. Plumber shows up with a 50ft powered snake and it kinks. He gives up saying that his snake just isn't designed to run that far without kinking. Says he will get his buddy who specializes in clogs to come over. His buddy shows up this morning, takes one look at my pipe and tells me that he won't work on it. It's too small for his long snakes and his small snakes are going to kink after 30ft and he doesn't want to break them. He won't try to blast the pipe as he does not have a good way to access it and trying to blast it through the T which I was using to snake would "make a huge mess". They said I'd need a heavy duty 100ft powered snake with a kink resistant cable and that's around $800. They'd be happy to buy it, use it to clear my drain and let me keep the machine as they never needed such a thing in 17 years of service. Somehow the prospect of owning an $800 100 foot drain snake did not intrigue me. So they have officially called it quits and wished me luck - and charged me nothing. So no complaints. I called another company who said that they'd be happy to try to clear my clog but would charge me half their hourly rate for their labor even if they fail to clear it. I tell them that I don't reward failure. Now I am waiting for 3 other plumbers to call me back...hopefully they won't charge me for failing. If they do, is my best course of action trying another 50ft snake? Should I try to rent a 50ft powered snake? Is there any way I could figure out where the pipe goes? The first plumber thought it went right outside, the second thinks it goes to the other drain line.
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Jan 25, 2011 17:48
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FileNotFound posted:Just how hosed am I? You could be hosed. I think its stupid that they would charge you for not being able to unclog it. Have you tried a rooter service. Usually a plumber doesnt do much service, they usually have a small service truck with a couple snakes. Your other option would be to dig up the drain and cut a clean out in half way. Since from what I'm understanding you'd have access to it somewhere outside of the house.
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Jan 25, 2011 22:58
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:You could be hosed. I think its stupid that they would charge you for not being able to unclog it. Have you tried a rooter service. Usually a plumber doesnt do much service, they usually have a small service truck with a couple snakes. 5th plumber I called said he'd do it for $100....and he did. Showed up 30 minutes later with a 50ft snake and got the drain running in 10 minutes. I am still in awe.
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Jan 26, 2011 01:55
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FileNotFound posted:5th plumber I called said he'd do it for $100....and he did. Showed up 30 minutes later with a 50ft snake and got the drain running in 10 minutes. Looks like you found a plumber you will be using for awhile after this.
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Jan 26, 2011 03:55
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So I asked this in the "Quick Questions" thread, but in case you don't forget, here is my situation: Washing machine on the left, kitchen sink on the right (dual sinks). Clog somewhere around after they meet. I've called a plumber, got charged a lot for them to try to snake and fail (the snake wouldn't go down, it'd just go from the sink to the washing machine or the other way around). Eventually, they said that they could just tear open the drywall to get directly to the pipe and snake it from there. That could cost me nearly $1000 (this is Mr. Rooter, incidentally). I don't want to pay that. I tried plunging it with some fancy air-plunger thingie that looked more like a bicycle pump, but I couldn't help but feel that I was just moving water around for an hour. Now my roommate has recommended we use one of those 1-second plumber things, the canisters that shoot a whole lot of gas down your pipes. I'm not convinced it will work, and worse, I'm worried that something will burst. When I asked, this product was recommended to me, which I will have to try. However, since that entails buying a hose, hooking it up in -20 degree weather (yay Canada), then and running it to the second floor of the building I'm in, then quickly learning how to remove a trap before sticking the bladder in and giving it a shot, I'm saving that for the second-to-last resort (and I'm still worried about my pipes). So, I just have to ask before I do that bladder thing: do I have any other options? Is $1000 way too much for the services they described? Is the 1-second plumber thing a bad idea?
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Jan 29, 2011 06:57
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Morpheus posted:clog I love blow bags, and highly recommend you go for that, although I guess if you have nowhere to attach a hose it might be a problem. Also, call a real plumber next time. Rooter dudes are way to variable - sometimes you get drain guys who know what they're doing, mostly you get some rear end in a top hat who bought a plain van, took a couple hours of training, got some van decals and a snake from the company, and can't do poo poo except upsell the gently caress out of you.
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Jan 29, 2011 07:03
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artificialj posted:I love blow bags, and highly recommend you go for that, although I guess if you have nowhere to attach a hose it might be a problem. I agree with him. Though you can get lovely workers even with a real plumbing outfit. Also I believe I suggested you put a nozzle on that drain cleaner balloon too. So you can turn it off and on near by. Also you can't just turn this on and make it a fix all. They will pop if they can't push through the clog. They sometimes need a snake to break some of the stuff up. Also a vacuum can work too to suck the poo poo out of the pipe.
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Jan 30, 2011 21:30
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 This thing leaks. Is there a simple way to stop it? I have no clue where the shutoff valves are, so I'll be going outside to shut off the water. I don't want to do any tearing into walls whatsover, as I don't own this house. I just want the leak to stop. When the bathtub fills up overnight, there is a problem. A big one.
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Feb 3, 2011 19:35
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You will haveGothmog1065 posted:
Wow , maybe its the angle of the picture but I have never seen a valve like that. What you will have to do is pull off the trim plate so i can get a better look at the valve itself. This will require you replacing the seat and possibly the stem. Why don't you ask the landlord to fix it though.
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Feb 3, 2011 20:23
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:This will require you replacing the seat and possibly the stem. Why don't you ask the landlord to fix it though. preview edit: Removed the rant as I'm sure you don't care. Let's just say the landlords do not want to fix poo poo, and lazy as hell, and this house is a piece of poo poo. Anyways, I'll try to get a different picture, but I'll explain what's going on here. This is a clawfoot bathtub, and you're actually looking at two separate things. The bottom round piece with the lever is the overflow drain, and I'm assuming the lever is supposed to close off the drain so you can fill the tub (Which doesn't work). Above that is the faucet with the two handles that turn out, and the pull lever to activate the shower (And the shower pipe going up behind it). In essence the round piece under the faucet has nothing to do with the faucet itself, which is what is leaking. I'll try to get a better picture when I get home.
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Feb 3, 2011 20:35
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Gothmog1065 posted:preview edit: Removed the rant as I'm sure you don't care. Let's just say the landlords do not want to fix poo poo, and lazy as hell, and this house is a piece of poo poo. Well with a double handled valve you have two valves that control the water coming in. After time those need to be rebuilt. Most likely you will have to shut off the water. Pull the stems and replace the seats. It can be a pain in the rear end to do though. Though damages sustained from faulty equipment would most likely not be your fault because you've gave them notice of the problems.
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Feb 3, 2011 20:37
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Well with a double handled valve you have two valves that control the water coming in. After time those need to be rebuilt. Most likely you will have to shut off the water. Pull the stems and replace the seats. It can be a pain in the rear end to do though. Here is an example of the landlords I'm dealing with: Me: The kitchen sink leaks around the base of the drain. Them: We fixed that M: Well it's leaking T: Well, we fixed it maybe you're doing something wrong M: Whatever. If you were to take a cross section of the actual drain assembly, it would have these layers: - Drain lip - Rubber ring - Sink - Fiber ring - Nut The rubber just got weak and basically squished out. I ended up getting the plumber's putty to actually fix it correctly (There was none anywhere NEAR the drain). So yeah, how much of a pain in the rear end, and how hard to get the replacement parts? I want to talk to these people as little as possible. It's nothing but excuse and reason they can't come, so I just want to take care of it.
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Feb 3, 2011 20:52
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Gothmog1065 posted:Here is an example of the landlords I'm dealing with: It would require you to buy a seat repair kit. It can be a bitch to get the old one out. Then if the stems still good you can replace the rubber on it and its like new for awhile.
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Feb 3, 2011 21:02
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My brother and I are about to build two houses on our farm land. My parents already have a house to the east of the picture below with a well and septic system. Would it be possible for us to share both a septic system and well? Our houses will be about 320 feet apart on the land. Could we possibly build a larger septic system in the middle and have a well drilled and just run a line from my house to his? Here is an shot of the land. My house will be built on the west point of the yellow line and his on the east. My parents house is directly to the east of the zoom-in shadow. 
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Feb 4, 2011 18:36
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Does all this land belong to one person, or are you splitting it up? Legally you're going to have problems because in the future if he wants to sell it (Never say never), it depends on who owns the property, who has to pay for upkeep, etc etc. I'd say split it up just to save yourself hassle in the future.
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Feb 4, 2011 19:50
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This is family land. Been in family for over 100 years now so I don't think its going anywhere. It will be split up from my parents to my brother and I with lots large enough for our houses, then later on we'll get the rest after my parents die. I honestly wouldn't ever see the land going outside of the family(me, my brother, or parents). EDIT: Assuming we do separate the well / septic, is there anything that we need to know or do so that they do not interfere with each other? Dobermaniac fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Feb 4, 2011 |
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Feb 4, 2011 20:02
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My husband and I recently bought a house that was a foreclosure and had sat empty for about two years, but had been winterized. Our toilet is original to the house, which means it's from 1978. It had a lazy flush, so we bought a Fluidmaster complete kit toilet repair kit from Lowes and replaced everything. However, this did not fix anything and it still has a lazy flush. The bowl does not empty when we flush, so things just kinda hang out in the bowl and get swirled around. We have tried to trouble shoot the issue as best as we can, but nothing seems to work and I'm trying to decide if we need a new toilet. As much as I'd love to call our plumber, we're paying both rent and mortgage right now and do not have room in the budget for extras. Is there anything else we can do for a diy fix or should we just buy a new toilet? Also, if we do get a new toilet, are there certain things we should look for? There's so many different kinds, it's confusing.
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Feb 9, 2011 18:28
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Callisto posted:My husband and I recently bought a house that was a foreclosure and had sat empty for about two years, but had been winterized. Our toilet is original to the house, which means it's from 1978. It had a lazy flush, so we bought a Fluidmaster complete kit toilet repair kit from Lowes and replaced everything. However, this did not fix anything and it still has a lazy flush. The bowl does not empty when we flush, so things just kinda hang out in the bowl and get swirled around. We have tried to trouble shoot the issue as best as we can, but nothing seems to work and I'm trying to decide if we need a new toilet. As much as I'd love to call our plumber, we're paying both rent and mortgage right now and do not have room in the budget for extras. Is there anything else we can do for a diy fix or should we just buy a new toilet? Also, if we do get a new toilet, are there certain things we should look for? There's so many different kinds, it's confusing. Get a new toilet, they are designed much better now days. And use about half the water per flush. (if you got a 3 gallon flush toilet in place right now) I suggest using a cadet 3 by American standard. Now its not there best model but my work installs them a lot. And I even put 2 in my parents house. I've yet to clog it. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202065640/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 One thing you want to check is from the back wall to the toilet bolts should be around 12.5 inches. If its around 10 inches then you will need a 10" rough in toilet. But if its around 12 inches then any toilet you buy will work in its place. The other features you can get in a toilet is comfort height (Its a taller toilet that also is ADA acceptable.) You can also get en elongated bowl which for bigger people is also more comfortable. You can easily replace the toilet yourself. It only takes a new wax ring, some new bolts, a new supply line that you connect to the angle stop.
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Feb 9, 2011 23:51
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Thank you so much for your help! I measured the wall to the bolts and it's right at 12", so that should be good. We plan on picking up the new toilet soon and I cannot wait. Thanks again!
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Feb 10, 2011 03:26
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Callisto posted:Thank you so much for your help! I measured the wall to the bolts and it's right at 12", so that should be good. We plan on picking up the new toilet soon and I cannot wait. Thanks again! Pay careful attention to the size of supply you have. If its a 3/8th by 7/8th or a 1/2 by 7/8th supply.
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Feb 10, 2011 05:28
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 Well I have a leak of some sort exiting into my freshly drywalled but not painted basement. Found this tonight when something just looked a bit odd, poked some holes and drained out water, then used a sawzal for closer inspection. Good news is that some water managed to find a path on a radon pipe and its not my plumbing at fault. Bad news is its not coming in from the roof at the flashing inside the attic (pipe is dry around the circumference there), instead it is coming in somewhere between the ceiling on the 2nd floor and ceiling on the first floor. Is it uncaulked trim around the bathtub giving water a path to follow Is it another random roof leak that found some crazy path Is one of the pipe assemblies for a shower leaking in the wall FUCKKKKK Right now I called it quits for tonight after cutting lots of holes to follow the path, but nothing into the ceiling on the first floor or walls/floor on the 2nd floor. Those are too hard to patch myself... so I am going to see if I can narrow down the sources some other way. To track how much water is involved I have a glass dish at the drip point inside the ceiling in the basement at one of the radon pipes 90-degree bends, and a sock wrapped around the pipe inside the wall on the first floor in a utility room. I am praying it was the shower leaking down the side of the tub since that has cracked caulk along the edge. Problem with that is unless there is a bunch of water still stored, it doesnt explain why water is still slowwwly dripping down the pipe 16 hours after my last shower. Any tips? This is coming at the worst possible time. I am finishing off the basement and now I have a lot of touchup repair work to fix water damage down there.
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Feb 10, 2011 09:06
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| # ? May 11, 2024 05:58 |
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dietcokefiend posted:
If the water drips constantly its a water line. If its only drips for 5 minutes and stop its a waste line. Best way is look for wet spots. Follow the radon pipe. Keep looking for water spots on joist bays or on the bottom of the sub floor. Once you find where the highest point you can see from the basement. Go up stairs and start cutting holes in dry wall up there.
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Feb 10, 2011 16:47
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