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Cat Terrist posted:How the hell they can sell cars as cheap in the USA is a good question full stop. In your case, having the steering wheel on the right side makes things more expensive.
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Feb 4, 2011 23:40
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Cat Terrist posted:How the hell they can sell cars as cheap in the USA is a good question full stop. It could be zero percent financing and the constant rolling over of negative equity into new car purchases every two years keeps the cars cheap. You should promote fiscal irresponsibility in your country so that you can have cheap cars too!
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Feb 4, 2011 23:49
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So what changed between the 2010 and 2011 Legacy? I'm interested in getting CVT model.
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Feb 5, 2011 00:29
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Shaocaholica posted:So what changed between the 2010 and 2011 Legacy? I'm interested in getting CVT model. It doesn't look like much. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/legacy/legacy2011.html#updates
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Feb 5, 2011 00:39
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Swapped out my oil pickup today and figured while I was in there might as well add a crank baffle and swap my motor mounts for Group-N parts (with an Agency Power dogbone that was lying around). My old oil pickup seems to have very small lines running from the brazing on the pipe all the way up through the bend and a little bit onto the actual pipe; they look like something has scratched the pipe. Are these actually what the stresses look like on the pickup before they develop into full-on cracks?
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Feb 5, 2011 03:31
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bull3964 posted:The chirp isn't a safety issue so no, they aren't going to do anything about it unless it's under warranty. Yeah that sucks, but at least it looks like an easy fix. I found a DIY on NASOIC. Just soldering some wires if it's not too damaged. I might wait until it's warmer out though. bull3964 posted:Funny enough about your story, I have a similar one. I had a check engine light on my '02, took it to autozone to have the code pulled. I got the code and then went to leave. The more I think about it, the more it makes sense. Mine was a cold start after I had the door open to connect the test connectors, then had the AP doing it's thing. But the biggest thing was that my heated seats were on. I turned them off, but I didn't catch it until they warmed up. So I got my car back today. It failed the OBDII emissions because when the battery died I didn't drive it around long enough.  So the shop had to drive it around to get it to build some data.Worst part is, I knew about this, but in the frustration of changing the battery I forgot all about it. Oh no wait... the worst part is when they put it up on the lift they realized my front sway bar was installed upside down! Sold to me that way after certification, and went through 2 PA state inspections, and a clutch change before anyone noticed it... Quality technicians at these dealers. Not like the local mom & pop shop. I need to stop renting a get a place with a garage... Also my head unit is stuck in TX. Thank you winter weather. itskage fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Feb 5, 2011 |
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Feb 5, 2011 05:05
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I changed my oil for the first time tonight on my 2011. Keep in mind my other one is an '02. gently caress underbody covers. I know it will be quicker the next time I do it since I'll be used to it, but it took me nearly 3x as long to change the oil screwing around with that thing. I will say though that the underside of my engine IS nice and clean even though this winter. I did use the Subaru synthetic 5w30 this time. Since a gallon is $25 online, I may just continue using it, at least while I'm in the warranty period, since it's about the same price as the Rotella 5w-40 i'm using in my '02. I'll be keeping an eye out for any OCI on the Subaru formula though to see if there's anything better worth using. The guy at the dealership tells me that the '11s and the '02s take the same oil filter (and online seems to confirm), but the '11 filter is much smaller than the one I've always used on my '02. Did they change the filter size and not tell Purolator? If it's ok to use the smaller filter, that'll make things much nicer since I can buy a six pack of filters and crush washers online.
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Feb 5, 2011 05:50
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Think I have the handling problem on my STI figured out. Raised the suspension and it looks decidedly better already.
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Feb 5, 2011 09:53
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Cat Terrist posted:Think I have the handling problem on my STI figured out. Raised the suspension and it looks decidedly better already.
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Feb 5, 2011 16:05
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Subarus really don't like being excessively lowered.
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Feb 5, 2011 16:11
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So I've been looking at a lot of 1998-2000 Subaru Legacy Outbacks, and I know the head gaskets blow like clockwork at 100k miles, however most of the cars I've been looking at have more than 120k miles. Provided I find one with proof that the head gasket has been replaced, so I have to worry about the new head gasket blowing up in another 100k miles?\ [edit] Nevermind. Read the original post.
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Feb 6, 2011 00:47
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bull3964 posted:I changed my oil for the first time tonight on my 2011.
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Feb 6, 2011 07:40
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Wrar posted:Explain? Might have been bashing the bumpstops and had the springs in the wrong initial position. Also, the geometry does look like it's working a lot better ie working in the sweet spot. I also solved it by using the red WRX in the event today. Fucccccccck I love that car! Turned into a day long battle of KB in the VR4 in full flight vs me in the WRX also having it cranked right up. Rally car vs road car, unexpected results
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Feb 6, 2011 10:48
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Just curious if anyone else uses a Fumoto valve or has any experience with them, good or bad? I was thinking about picking one up, would seem to make oil changing a little quicker.Bob Log posted:4 Times I've called SoA, they say they have to back the dealer, saying that unless I can recreate the issue in the presence of a mechanic they will not do anything to find it. I've taken it to 3 dealers now,the Napa dealer and both dealers in SAC. Man, that sucks. I had the same issue when I had my Tacoma. The brakes were making a low-pitched noise when being used in traffic, and I could never reproduce the noise for the service techs. "Welp, if it gets worse bring 'er back in." 
War Bunny fucked around with this message at 14:18 on Feb 6, 2011 |
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Feb 6, 2011 14:11
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bull3964 posted:If it's ok to use the smaller filter, that'll make things much nicer since I can buy a six pack of filters and crush washers online. What part # are your smaller filters? I've been reading around intending to buy a bunch in one go as well, people have mentioned that subaru uses a weirdly high bypass valve pressure in its OEM filters and many 3rd party ones don't meet that. The OEM 15208AA12A is cheap enough though, might make sense to just buy those.
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Feb 6, 2011 15:50
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The 15208AA12A is what I bought from the dealer. It was $6.52 there. http://www.fredbeansparts.com/index.php/subaru-oil-filters-and-washers-6-pack.html You can get a 6 pack of those filters with crush washers for $35 which works out to $5.83 a piece. Of course, the 'community' finds fault with the blue OEM filters. They liked the black ones, but they say the blue ones are of inferior quality. You can't buy the black ones anymore though. I figure if I'm changing my oil every 3750 miles anyways, it doesn't matter. The car came with a black filter on it from the factory. I had been using Purolator PureONE filters on my '02, PL14460. It's the longer filter. They are about the same price as those 15208AA12A filters.
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Feb 6, 2011 20:05
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War Bunny posted:Just curious if anyone else uses a Fumoto valve or has any experience with them, good or bad? I was thinking about picking one up, would seem to make oil changing a little quicker.
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Feb 6, 2011 21:30
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War Bunny posted:Just curious if anyone else uses a Fumoto valve or has any experience with them, good or bad? I was thinking about picking one up, would seem to make oil changing a little quicker. Put one on my WRX when I did the first oil change. Doesn't leak at all, makes life a little easier for sure. The have two models one with a tip that you can slot a hose over and one without. I did the one without, just for the extra clearance.
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Feb 7, 2011 02:17
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Anyone know about these fellows? I need a place to have the clutch done and the exhaust/uppipe/tune, and if can do it all under one roof, the more the merrier. Performance Race Solutions: http://www.performanceracesolutions.com/ http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2117617
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Feb 7, 2011 04:31
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Invidia V2 Bellmouth Catless Downpipe for 02-07 WRX/STi $245.00 OEM Subaru Turbo to Downpipe Gasket for 02-07 turbo $15.00 OEM subaru Turbo to Uppipe gasket for 02-07 Subaru Turbo $11.00 GrimmSpeed Subaru Exhaust Manifold to Up Pipe Gasket 2x THICK $15.83 Total: $286.83 Then the Harmon-Motive Up-pipe from AQ/Jamal for 129. Fianlly to the local tuner/shop for the install/tune clutch replacement? That sound about right guys? And I'm still trying to find a STi Muffler, it'll still be more powered with the stock WRX right? If so, I'll pull the trigger on the orders by lunch. toplitzin fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Feb 7, 2011 |
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Feb 7, 2011 16:07
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toplitzin posted:Invidia V2 Bellmouth Catless Downpipe for 02-07 WRX/STi $245.00 A little pricey for for the DP and UP since you can get them for $120/40 elsewhere, but it's not bad. Are you sure the DP will bolt to your stock midpipe? Do you need an adapter? Yes it will work fine with the stock exhaust for now. Don't drive it until it's flashed to stage 2.
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Feb 7, 2011 18:46
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Blaise posted:A little pricey for for the DP and UP since you can get them for $120/40 elsewhere, but it's not bad. Yes I needed an adapter, Josh was most helpful! Total with shipping was $339.15 Now to buy a clutch, a STi Muffler, and take it to the shop for the install/flash. The shop I linked does open source tuning. Also, Just ordered the Harmon Motive up-pipe! Thanks Jamal! Now to find a dash bezel set for the EGT, Oil pres/Boost gauge, or just buy a boost only gauge. =) There is a guy here local offering the STi Muffler for $100. Blaise if you can find me one shipped cheaper, I'll buy you a beer/account upgrade. Edit: Anyone have a recommendation on where to buy the OEM Clutch for cheaper than the dealer? toplitzin fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Feb 7, 2011 |
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Feb 7, 2011 19:25
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Thanks! Here's your up-pipe: .jpg) We see the cheap ones come apart pretty frequently. I was surprised to see the perrin one listed for $100 more. They're pretty similar. jamal fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Feb 7, 2011 |
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Feb 7, 2011 19:38
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toplitzin posted:There is a guy here local offering the STi Muffler for $100. Blaise if you can find me one shipped cheaper, I'll buy you a beer/account upgrade. Good luck... I found mine locally. Shipping is a bitch/pricey on exhausts.
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Feb 7, 2011 19:46
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Blaise posted:Good luck... I found mine locally. Shipping is a bitch/pricey on exhausts. I had a fun adventure when I went to pick up my exhaust. Buddy I drove down with managed to quick shift into 3rd on his CRX from redline in 4th, spun some bearings and we had to emergency swap his motor the next day before we could drive home. Pro-Tip, when swapping the motor in your CR-X, loosen the bolts on the engine mounts before you drop it in to make it easy to shoe horn in there. 
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Feb 7, 2011 19:57
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Is there any reason to buy an aftermarket up-pipe instead of just gutting the one I have?
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Feb 7, 2011 21:07
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I drive a 2003 Subaru Outback Limited, with about 114,000 miles on it. I recently replaced the front O2 sensor (a big moment for me since I don't work on cars and this is one of the first things I've ever fixed on my car). I was wondering if someone could shed some light on engine codes. After I replaced the sensor the Check Engine light turned off and the car runs fine, but as of 50 miles after the repair the engine codes still haven't reset (I know this because my car failed the smog check re-test for that exact reason). Can anyone tell me how many miles I have to drive before the codes reset internally? I need to register my car in CA and I won't want to pay for another smog check until I'm sure the codes have reset.
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Feb 7, 2011 21:16
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So I did my coolant and installed a crank baffle, group-N motor mounts and an oil pickup on Friday; the coolant overflow bottle is a little over-filled but I don't think it should cause this to happen. I'm experiencing a kind of surging at constant part throttle (not really accelerating); it feels kind of like the car is almost stalling and then there's a violent, sudden thrust forward and the car resumes its normal operation. I experienced it at under 2000rpm, ~2500rpm and ~3500rpm on my drive to work this morning. It happens infrequently, so I'm assuming it's some kind of sensor involved and not a glitch in the tune. I'm going to try resetting the ECU and seeing if I can replicate the issue in neutral to eliminate the drivetrain as a potential source of the problem. I was afraid it might be oil related but I would imagine a drop in oil pressure that severe and sudden would be joined by either a horrible noise or the oil light, and it seems to be fine right after the pulse. I guess it's possible that this was always here and I just noticed it with the group-N mounts, but it's pretty severe and I haven't noticed any other vibrations that violent with the mounts installed. I just noticed that the throttle position sensor is near the intercooler according to some forum post with an 02; I guess I could have made that dirty when I was removing and reinstalling the intercooler, assuming DBW cars even have those. Any tips on cleaning that? Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Feb 7, 2011 |
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Feb 7, 2011 21:24
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Wrar posted:Is there any reason to buy an aftermarket up-pipe instead of just gutting the one I have? Scrap yard will probably give you as much money for the cat as you'd pay for an aftermarket pipe. Also if you F it up and you get a particle into your turbo.... bye bye turbo.
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Feb 7, 2011 22:31
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darkbob87 posted:Can anyone tell me how many miles I have to drive before the codes reset internally? I need to register my car in CA and I won't want to pay for another smog check until I'm sure the codes have reset. It will not reset itself. Unplug your battery, write down your radio station presets first.
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Feb 7, 2011 23:07
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I think the problem might be that the ECU shows "Not Ready". Not sure how long it takes to get all the sensors in Ready condition.
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Feb 7, 2011 23:37
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CharlesM posted:I think the problem might be that the ECU shows "Not Ready". Not sure how long it takes to get all the sensors in Ready condition. The battery was unplugged when I replaced the sensor, so I don't know if that's it. Amandyke posted:It will not reset itself. Unplug your battery, write down your radio station presets first. This is more likely, and what I had in mind. I figured there was some sort of set mileage before everything is "ready" but perhaps that isn't the case. 
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Feb 7, 2011 23:58
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There isn't a set mileage, there's a specific set of driving conditions that need to be met before the ECU shows completely ready. Depending on the types of conditions you drive in, it may be hundreds of miles before the ECU reports fully ready. I saw a list once of all the conditions that needed to be met, but I can't find it right now.
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Feb 8, 2011 00:10
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Does anyone have any idea where I could get a pair of front O2 sensor plugs for an 2001 H6 outback? My donor engine didn't come with the sensors, and I'm not going to shell out $240+ for a pair direct replacement sensors when I can spend $50 a pair for universals (without the plug). If I can't find the plug I'm just going to solder the sensors directly to the wiring harness.
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Feb 8, 2011 00:28
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All the parts are ordered. Exeddy Clutch, mechanical boost gauge and pod, and piping too. Scheduled for Tuesday afternoon, clutch/exhaust replacement and stage two dyno tune for about $1500 parts and labor. 
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Feb 8, 2011 00:32
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good deal! all my suspension bushings showed up today:  Click here for the full 1024x575 image.
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Feb 8, 2011 01:29
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bull3964 posted:There isn't a set mileage, there's a specific set of driving conditions that need to be met before the ECU shows completely ready. Is it extensive? Or should a quick 10-mile trip down the freeway do the trick? I've put 75ish miles on the car since switching out the sensor but it's all been city mileage - nothing on the freeway. darkbob87 fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Feb 8, 2011 |
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Feb 8, 2011 01:31
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I didn't reset my ECU yet but took a look at the BPV gasket since that seems to be a culprit in a lot of people who have power-loss stumbling issues like my recent development. Here's an enormous, blurry, nasty flash cellphone picture of my BPV with gasket poking out a little:  Near as I can see from the factory manual it's supposed to poke out a little. Does anything look bad? Normally I'd take it apart to do an exploratory test but it's -18°C outside. If I can find somewhere with shelter I might just take the whole TMIC off, check all the fittings and reassemble it to make sure it's not a boost problem.
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Feb 8, 2011 03:18
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darkbob87 posted:Is it extensive? Or should a quick 10-mile trip down the freeway do the trick? I've put 75ish miles on the car since switching out the sensor but it's all been city mileage - nothing on the freeway. Here's a good general outline generic for most cars (it's not exhaustive and could vary by make or model.) As you can see, depending on your driving habits, you may never satisfy some of these conditions in daily driving. http://www.europeantransmissions.com/Bulletin/DTC.BMW/BMW%20FTP72%20Drive%20Cycle%20Procedure.pdf 1) Start cold engine and idle for approximately 2 minutes, 10 seconds. This checks secondary air injection and evap leak detection systems. 2) Accelerate to 20-30 MPH and maintain steady speed for 3 minutes, 15 seconds. This establishes closed loop oxy-sensor operations, response times & switching times. 3) Accelerate to 40-60 MPH and maintain steady speed for 15-20 minutes. This evaluates catalytic converters while oxy-sensor response and switching times are checked. 4) Decelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear (auto) for 5-6 minutes. This checks evap leak detection system. The diagnostic checks above will be discontinued if: 1) Engine speeds exceed 3000 RPM 2) Large fluctuations in throttle position 3) Road speeds exceed 60 MPH
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Feb 8, 2011 04:35
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toplitzin posted:All the parts are ordered. Exeddy Clutch, mechanical boost gauge and pod, and piping too. Scheduled for Tuesday afternoon, clutch/exhaust replacement and stage two dyno tune for about $1500 parts and labor.
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Feb 8, 2011 06:27
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