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Spedman posted:I think this is what your looking for:
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Feb 5, 2011 00:27
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<--- Proud owner of a brand new used XA. I've never used a rangefinder before, poo poo it's kinda tough to see the little yellow patch in the center. Does it need to be cleaned or something or is it just old? Or do I need to man up and grow a pair?
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Feb 5, 2011 01:01
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I just developed and printed my first photo(s). Protip: negatives look strange when you contact print them upside down.
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Feb 5, 2011 01:34
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Wasting time online at work today, I discovered a Pentax PZ-10 with a couple of lenses and accessories for $150, at a place I'd be able to get out to on Sunday. I have since managed to talk myself out of the purchase (the reviews of the lenses were really bad), but I'm feeling the unsatisfied feeling of the unsuccessful shopper. I wasn't actually planning to spend much on photography this month (last month was rather spendy), but if it's something that will *save* me money in the long run... So, what would I need to do to be able to develop my own film at home? I have nothing, except a bathroom that can easily be made darker than dark and lots of experience with wet chemistry in other contexts. For film cameras, I've got a 135 Minolta X-700 and an Ensign Pocket folder that uses 120. I've seen discussions here about small developing tanks that can accept either of those sizes. I need a shopping list, I think. If I can produce good negatives, then I'll get a scanner. I currently lack the space for printing from negatives, unless somebody can show me a system that takes up less space than a laptop computer.
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Feb 5, 2011 02:04
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ExecuDork posted:Wasting time online at work today, I discovered a Pentax PZ-10 with a couple of lenses and accessories for $150, at a place I'd be able to get out to on Sunday. I have since managed to talk myself out of the purchase (the reviews of the lenses were really bad), but I'm feeling the unsatisfied feeling of the unsuccessful shopper. I wasn't actually planning to spend much on photography this month (last month was rather spendy), but if it's something that will *save* me money in the long run... You don't need a dark room if you get a changing bag. Go for it. Its easier than it looks.
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Feb 5, 2011 02:49
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ExecuDork posted:Wasting time online at work today, I discovered a Pentax PZ-10 with a couple of lenses and accessories for $150, at a place I'd be able to get out to on Sunday. I have since managed to talk myself out of the purchase (the reviews of the lenses were really bad), but I'm feeling the unsatisfied feeling of the unsuccessful shopper. I wasn't actually planning to spend much on photography this month (last month was rather spendy), but if it's something that will *save* me money in the long run... If you're doing it on the cheap, the best way is to find someone on Craigslist unloading their whole setup. Otherwise: Developing tank : I've got a two-reel AP tank. Should run you $15-25 used Thermometer: $10 or so, I use one like this Timer: you can use your phone, laptop, or whatever, I prefer a digital kitchen timer. Stuff for measuring: I have a 1L measuring cup I got from Walmart for a couple of bucks. For measuring developer (small quantities) I scored a couple of syringes off a nurse, they're easy enough to find on eBay. Containers: I use a regular milk gallon jug for my fixer, ideally the accordion type bottles that let you squeeze excess air out are what you want. Bottle opener for opening cannisters of film Developer: HC-110 is pretty popular around here, because it can be used at high dilutions (I do Dil H, which is 1:63) and lasts forever as a concentrate. It took me about a year to get through my first bottle of it. Fixer: mix from powder, use for around 6 months. Re-useable, don't pour down the drain. Wetting agent/Photoflo: For after you rinse, keeps crap from staying on the film as it dries. Something to hang the film from as it dries. I bought a pair of suction cups with hooks at Walmart and strung up a line between them, use clothespins or binder clips to hold the film. I could be missing something, this was just off the top of my head. It's pretty straightforward, but definitely don't use pictures you care about the first couple of rolls. I got a friend of mine into film when he visited a few weeks ago, was talking with him on FB this afternoon and said he he bought all the stuff and screwed up his first roll just a few days ago  Temperature isn't *critical* for B&W the way it is for color, but you do need to be in the ballpark.
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Feb 5, 2011 02:57
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ExecuDork posted:Wasting time online at work today, I discovered a Pentax PZ-10 with a couple of lenses and accessories for $150, at a place I'd be able to get out to on Sunday. I have since managed to talk myself out of the purchase (the reviews of the lenses were really bad), but I'm feeling the unsatisfied feeling of the unsuccessful shopper. I wasn't actually planning to spend much on photography this month (last month was rather spendy), but if it's something that will *save* me money in the long run... If it's zoom lenses I would pass, but I am totally into primes. It's a lot easier to make a lens sharp at one focal length than to have it be sharp at all focal lengths. Zoom lenses are only finally catching up (on the pro end) to prime lenses. On the other hand, I think the PZ-10 lacks things like a split prism to make manual focusing easier. Might want to pass on that and look for an old Pentax manual focus body or a Canon/Nikon autofocus body. Your X-700 is a good body and lenses are pretty cheap compared to other systems, perhaps you should consider giving that a shot. Try and get a 50mm and a 28mm lens to start. The Ensign folder is probably a great camera and it will make bigger prints/larger scans than the X-700, but it doesn't have a meter so you will have to bring along a SLR body to transfer the meter reading. Fast film (ISO 400) will help you stop down more which will make scale-focusing it easier. Developing by hand isn't hard. You'll need: -Developing Tank #5041 -Stop Bath #10145 (optional, you can use water too) -Fixer #16241 -Hardener #62344 -Hypo Wash #12311 -Photo Flo/wetting agent #6170 -35mm negative sleeves #71357 -120 negative sleeves #120325 -Choice of developers, I recommend: --Kodak HC-110 # 1408988 --Rodinal/Compard R09 #9725 --Microdol-X/Mic-X #749710 -A piece of hose you can attach to your sink, stick it down the middle of the tank and it's a washer -Clothespins -Bottle opener -Baby syringe for measuring small volumes of liquid (try Walmart) All these are part numbers for Freestyle Photo. When possible I would get liquids over powder, you can make smaller batches with liquids. I also recommend getting some Arista Premium 400 and LegacyPro 100 film, it's rebranded Kodak Tri-X and Fuji Acros respectively. If you want 120 film you have to buy the name brands. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Feb 5, 2011 |
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Feb 5, 2011 03:04
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ASSTASTIC posted:Anyone else feel this way besides me? On top of being a beautiful medium in itself, it's a great learning tool -- with my DSLR I'll set it to aperture priority and high speed drive every time I get in the car in case I drive by anything interesting under the assumption that I can make it at least visible if I don't get a good shot out of camera. I'll point and shoot at anything and everything I think might make a decent image when I'm not out to get a specific shot. With film, I don't have that luxury. I have to think, meter, compose, focus (or look at a focus point in my A2E and let it do the rest) and shoot. I know I have 24 or 36 exposures to work with and want to make every one of them count. I can't see the results instantly so I'll look at the developed photos and think long and hard about what I did right and wrong with each one. When I end up with a good photo, it's because I got the process right; now I have to learn to print which is an art in itself to take it a step beyond. Don't get me wrong, I love digital and the capabilities of it, but I think that shooting film has helped to make me a better photographer.
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Feb 5, 2011 03:27
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Pompous Rhombus posted:If you're doing it on the cheap, the best way is to find someone on Craigslist unloading their whole setup. Otherwise: Paul MaudDib posted:Developing by hand isn't hard. You'll need: I'm definately going to pass on the PZ-10. It's a fun looking camera, but I've been using my Minolta for more than 10 years and I was thinking I'd sell the PZ-10 body and keep the lenses for my K10D. But it looks like it's the kit package from 15 years ago, the FA 28-80 and the widely-hated FA 70-200. Both have power zoom, which would entertain me for 20 or 30 minutes, but neither lens will get me out of the entry-level collection I've got going currently. My next K-mount lens will cost $400 or more, I need some self-discipline or I'm going to be "that guy" with the giant bag full of slow, boring, cheap-rear end glass. This is why I want to start developing at home - it will save me money very quickly - I picked up two rolls of C-41 colour (36 exposures each) at the shop last night, that I'd had them develop and put on CD but no prints, and that was just shy of $20 for the pair. EDIT: This is also for sale, but that big enlarger is exactly what I do not have space for. Ooooh.... and there's this, too. Opinions welcome (including on my sanity). ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Feb 5, 2011 |
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Feb 5, 2011 03:51
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What's the difference between catechol-based developers (pyrocat, PMK, etc.) and "normal" developers? Is there one? Edit: I made a mistake and also answered my question. It's pyrogallol, not catechol. atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 07:20 on Feb 5, 2011 |
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Feb 5, 2011 07:00
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Another developer that McMadCow recommended to me to get started was D-76. Seems to like Tri-X and Neopan at straight and 1:1. In other news I made my first print, was really fun, and I glad I nabbed my dad's old darkroom stuff before it went away.
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Feb 5, 2011 13:41
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I checked out the darkroom chemicals at my local camera shop this afternoon when I was over there picking up my first roll of 120. Prices didn't seem to be too special one way or the other, so once I get into this I'll probably get refills from them as needed, if only to support my local shop. Something went wrong with the film. I used a roll of 120 Ilford 400 B&W C-41. I think the film wasn't sitting flat against the inside of the back of the camera for a few pictures, resulting in some big nasty V-shaped regions of overexposure. Does this sound like a reasonable explanation to anyone else? How might I avoid this problem in future?  First roll through the Ensign by Execudork, on Flickr  Ensign Pocket 1 by Execudork, on Flickr  Ensign Pocket 2 by Execudork, on Flickr  Ensign Pocket 3 by Execudork, on Flickr
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Feb 5, 2011 22:31
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ExecuDork posted:Something went wrong with the film. I used a roll of 120 Ilford 400 B&W C-41. I think the film wasn't sitting flat against the inside of the back of the camera for a few pictures, resulting in some big nasty V-shaped regions of overexposure. Does this sound like a reasonable explanation to anyone else? How might I avoid this problem in future? Actually check your bellows and seals. TheLastManStanding fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Feb 5, 2011 |
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Feb 5, 2011 22:53
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Ferris Bueller posted:Another developer that McMadCow recommended to me to get started was D-76. Seems to like Tri-X and Neopan at straight and 1:1. I had good results with HP5+ and D-76 1:1 for 13 minutes, agitating twice a minute. Edit: I am prepared for any eventuality. 
atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Feb 5, 2011 |
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Feb 5, 2011 23:36
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atomicthumbs posted:Edit: 
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Feb 6, 2011 00:34
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Pompous Rhombus posted:More like a backwards Ireland flag.
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Feb 6, 2011 00:37
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TheLastManStanding posted:Not sitting flat in the camera would cause a focus issue, not an exposure problem. It's a repeated pattern that isn't consistent among frames so it most likely happened during development, such as having the film stick to itself or it could also have been a light leak while the film was still on the spool. Since that area is lighter I'm guessing it was the latter.
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Feb 6, 2011 01:29
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atomicthumbs posted:I had good results with HP5+ and D-76 1:1 for 13 minutes, agitating twice a minute. I can't say anything for the prints (they don't exist at the moment, but the negatives look good* from neopan 100 at 11 minutes in D-76 1:1 with the same agitation. *ie only myself to blame for the photographic shame.
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Feb 6, 2011 03:09
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atomicthumbs posted:I had good results with HP5+ and D-76 1:1 for 13 minutes, agitating twice a minute.
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Feb 6, 2011 11:18
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I made a much better setup to photograph negatives. Now all I need is a macro lens and I'm on my way. 2011-35 by Tom Rintjema, on Flickr
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Feb 6, 2011 23:09
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I have Pan F and FP4 roll done. What I develop good with?pwn posted:A funky bit of visual trickery when I scroll past this image. whooooaaaa. I swear I didn't do that on purpose
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Feb 7, 2011 05:14
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Does this seem to have rather a lot of grain for Ilford Delta 400? Link goes to original size. I'm wondering if I actuated it too much in development. Same goes with this one:  Or is this pretty standard?
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Feb 7, 2011 05:57
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I've never shot Delta 400 but in relation to every other B&W iso 400 film I've shot, that is far far too much grain. It looks rather unusual too. I don't think I've ever had negatives come out with course grain like that before. Even Delta 3200@3200 (XTOL) is more natural looking: 
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Feb 7, 2011 06:34
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Huh. I always thought Delta 400 had finer grain than, say, Tri-X.
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Feb 7, 2011 06:46
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My XA is jammed. I ran my first roll through it yesterday just fine. Today, mid roll, I wound the shutter thing, and then there was no click when I pressed the shutter. I was surprised at how light the touch is on the XA, it takes barely any pressure to fire. I would the film back into the spool and left the leader out. I did the battery check and the beep stops when I press the shutter, the timer also goes off when I press the shutter. It just wont seem to release the cocking wheel. Any ideas? It's a really fun camera and I just want to use it more.
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Feb 7, 2011 08:00
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I must be doing something wrong when I do my developing for 120. I load the reel, I do the same thing I do for my 135 that never gives me any problems... But when the 120 comes out I get maybe 4 frames developed and the rest are straight up blank. I'm shooting it on a Holga 120N to just experiment with the medium format film but its not working out. First roll I ran, 1 frame. Second I did tonight, 4. Always towards the end of the roll. What the hell am I doing wrong?
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Feb 7, 2011 09:39
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Mannequin posted:Does this seem to have rather a lot of grain for Ilford Delta 400? Link goes to original size. Looks over agitated or over temperature. Delta 400 should have roughly the same grainularity as T max 400. HPL posted:Huh. I always thought Delta 400 had finer grain than, say, Tri-X. It should technically have finer grain as a T grain film. Fine but uglier.
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Feb 7, 2011 10:08
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Tempest815 posted:I must be doing something wrong when I do my developing for 120. I load the reel, I do the same thing I do for my 135 that never gives me any problems... But when the 120 comes out I get maybe 4 frames developed and the rest are straight up blank. I'm shooting it on a Holga 120N to just experiment with the medium format film but its not working out. First roll I ran, 1 frame. Second I did tonight, 4. Always towards the end of the roll.
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Feb 7, 2011 11:12
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AIIAZNSK8ER posted:My XA is jammed. I ran my first roll through it yesterday just fine. Today, mid roll, I wound the shutter thing, and then there was no click when I pressed the shutter. I was surprised at how light the touch is on the XA, it takes barely any pressure to fire. I would the film back into the spool and left the leader out. I did the battery check and the beep stops when I press the shutter, the timer also goes off when I press the shutter. It just wont seem to release the cocking wheel. Any ideas? It's a really fun camera and I just want to use it more.  I don't really have any insight unfortunately. So what you're saying is that the shutter is stuck? I agree the shutter button is really hair-trigger, but did you try really squishing it down and putting pressure on all corners individually if possible to try to get it to fire?
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Feb 7, 2011 14:48
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AIIAZNSK8ER posted:My XA is jammed. I ran my first roll through it yesterday just fine. Today, mid roll, I wound the shutter thing, and then there was no click when I pressed the shutter. I was surprised at how light the touch is on the XA, it takes barely any pressure to fire. I would the film back into the spool and left the leader out. I did the battery check and the beep stops when I press the shutter, the timer also goes off when I press the shutter. It just wont seem to release the cocking wheel. Any ideas? It's a really fun camera and I just want to use it more. It could be jammed, I had some plastic fall inside it and jam the advance mechanism (in the middle of my roll of Kodachrome 25, in the middle of Halong Bay  ). The electromagnet that actuates the shutter sometimes goes bad too.
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Feb 7, 2011 15:06
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The shutter will trip the self timer, and stop the battery check "beeeeep" but the advance mechanism will not move anymore. I guess my next option is to take it apart? Anyone find a good manual for taking an xa apart?
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Feb 7, 2011 16:15
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AIIAZNSK8ER posted:The shutter will trip the self timer, and stop the battery check "beeeeep" but the advance mechanism will not move anymore. I guess my next option is to take it apart? Anyone find a good manual for taking an xa apart? http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/repairmanuals.html It's about halfway down, but the password is at the top. I read on flickr that cleaning the contacts for the shutter might help?
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Feb 7, 2011 17:23
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There's a bunch of 35mm Technical Pan on eBay right now, in both rolls and longrolls. There's also a lot of 4x5.
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Feb 7, 2011 17:47
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AIIAZNSK8ER posted:My XA is jammed. I ran my first roll through it yesterday just fine. Today, mid roll, I wound the shutter thing, and then there was no click when I pressed the shutter. I was surprised at how light the touch is on the XA, it takes barely any pressure to fire. I would the film back into the spool and left the leader out. I did the battery check and the beep stops when I press the shutter, the timer also goes off when I press the shutter. It just wont seem to release the cocking wheel. Any ideas? It's a really fun camera and I just want to use it more. it actually doesn't take any pressure; it's a capacitive switch. First try changing the battery, then take apart the shutter button (you'll need one of those tiny screw drivers). When mine seized I just cleaned the contacts, readjusted the dielectric pad which had shifted and that fixed it.
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Feb 7, 2011 20:19
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I stopped in Central Camera for the first time to try out some Ektar (they were sold out) and some of the new Porta 400 (also sold out). The guy who helped me was a bit of a creeper but nice enough when he realized I know at least a tiny bit about film. Anyway, they had a few Pentax Asahi 67's there, holy poo poo those are comically huge.
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Feb 7, 2011 23:21
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Crappy phone picture of my latest purchases (Voigtlander Bessa R3M / Voigtlander Nokton Classic 40mm F1.4): I've been called crazy for buying a brand new film camera in 2011, but I just enjoy the whole film process so much more and I can't get enough of rangefinders.
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Feb 8, 2011 00:13
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Ok yea, I have no idea what how to even begin to fix my XA. Does anyone here actually want to take a shot at it? I'm thinking that if you can get it working you can give me cash for it and keep it. I think I'm just going to wait to get another one somewhere else. I'm a sad panda.
AIIAZNSK8ER fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Feb 8, 2011 |
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Feb 8, 2011 02:31
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beeker posted:Crappy phone picture of my latest purchases (Voigtlander Bessa R3M / Voigtlander Nokton Classic 40mm F1.4): I love my R2M. It was more expensive than my second hand 40D and a lot of my friends can't wrap their heads around that. I'm jealous of your Nokton, I would love something that fast.
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Feb 8, 2011 02:38
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beeker posted:Crappy phone picture of my latest purchases (Voigtlander Bessa R3M / Voigtlander Nokton Classic 40mm F1.4): I don't know how much that cost you, but it looks beautiful and I understand your...problem.
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Feb 8, 2011 02:39
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One of the local camera shops just announced that they're going out of business, and since I chat with the owner all the time and have shown work at their openings before, I've offered to help catalog and sort through their enormous collection of ancient and forgotten cameras. Place was in business for sixty years, they've got hundreds of cameras (mostly broken or in unknown condition) lining the tops of the walls as display pieces and the owner seemed too overwhelmed to know what to do with them, apparently there's a lot more in the basement too. Dozens of screwmounts, half-frame cameras, rangefinders, a couple Leicas, an Ikoflex (which I totally want), tons of old polaroid folders, super 8 cameras, etc. etc. She's already set aside a couple of Super Takumar lenses for me at ten bucks each. I'm gonna see if I can trade some of my time in identifying and grading that huge collection in exchange for a few things to keep. Might be able to post a few of them on the selling thread here to help her sell them online if anyone's interested. Dr. Cogwerks fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Feb 8, 2011 |
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Feb 8, 2011 02:42
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is go