|
Any idea why the thermostat housing for a B230 doesn't require a gasket? The thing is leaking like loving crazy. Should I just go at it with sandpaper and then some gasket sealant?
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2011 05:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 12:35 |
|
|
The thermostat itself requires a gasket. It's a rubber C channel that fits around the rim of the thermostat and seals up the joint. It's often sold separately which is really retarded, and it sounds like you don't have one.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2011 06:09
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:The thermostat itself requires a gasket. It's a rubber C channel that fits around the rim of the thermostat and seals up the joint. It's often sold separately which is really retarded, and it sounds like you don't have one. Correct. It fits around the edge. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2011 06:31
|
|
|
Yeah, the thermostat has an o-ring but the thermostat housing that is bolted to the head doesn't have one and it's leaking everywhere when the car is running. What would be causing this? It's not possible to have installed it upside-down either, right? VADIS shows it being installed with the little spring/puck combination feeding into the head itself with the other side up toward the housing.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2011 06:58
|
|
|
Probably more of a general car question but one lower balljoint needs replacing - should I do the matching one on the other side whilst I'm at it?
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2011 13:44
|
|
|
Xovaan posted:Yeah, the thermostat has an o-ring but the thermostat housing that is bolted to the head doesn't have one and it's leaking everywhere when the car is running. What would be causing this? That gasket should seal against the counterbore in the housing AND the face of the head. Scrape both clean. Also check to make sure that when the thermostat is in the housing, the rubber is thick enough to stick out and crush against the head. Also just make sure it's not bound up, or make sure your studs are in the head deep enough so that you haven't run out of thread, general "oh jesus" kinds of problems. Cakefool posted:Probably more of a general car question but one lower balljoint needs replacing - should I do the matching one on the other side whilst I'm at it? Always a good idea. You gotta get an alignment each time you change something like that anyway, so doing both will save you an alignment if the other one is anywhere near end of life.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2011 18:30
|
|
|
My 940 still won't idle and it's annoying the poo poo out of me. I replaced the fuel filter yesterday evening on the hunch that it might have been clogged, since the car seemed to be starved of fuel. It still stumbled a bit at idle at first, but eventually started running fine and I was able to drive it without issue for the rest of the evening. This morning, it's back to its old ways - the idle is surging and it'll die after idling for a bit or being driven a short distance (although I can get it restarted much more easily now.) Things I've replaced thus far: -AMM -IAC valve -Fuel filter The only oddity I've run into thus far is this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07ad664T-BQ There's noticeable arcing visible inside the distributor cap. Should I replace that next? TheJeffers fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Jan 28, 2011 |
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2011 21:41
|
|
|
Okay got the front suspension rebuilt completely and have replaced the rear nivomat shocks. It looks like the rear suspension could use some love, but I will tackle that in a few months. The precat 02 sensor Amazon sent was wrong. Have to go get another in Memphis. The rear o2 sensor is giving me problems. I cut out the old one at the electrical connection with the red cap on it. Try as I might I cannot get the red cap that goes on the connector to slide out like it is supposed to. One forum suggested hitting it with PB blaster and trying. No dice. I have tried going at it from below the car and above. It is real hard to see what you are doing. Tried prying it with a screwdriver. Nothing. Anyone got any ideas or is there a special Volvo tool that can help. I am ready to try anything to see how the new suspension is going to improve ride quality.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2011 03:09
|
|
|
My neighbor, who works at a sketchy used car lot, brought a 740 home for lunch. I was asking him about it and he said it was a 6 cyl. This caught my attention. I didn't bother him to look under the hood but I assume this is a PRV v6. Wikipedia doesn't list the inline 6 as an option on the 740. Is this correct? I know the early PRV's were terrible, terrible lumps of metal. Were the later PRVs ever any good? He said this one had ~200k mi. on it. A wagon with a 6 cyl seems like an interesting proposition.
|
|
#
?
Feb 2, 2011 20:00
|
|
|
ch1mp posted:My neighbor, who works at a sketchy used car lot, brought a 740 home for lunch. I was asking him about it and he said it was a 6 cyl. This caught my attention. I didn't bother him to look under the hood but I assume this is a PRV v6. Wikipedia doesn't list the inline 6 as an option on the 740. Is this correct? I know the early PRV's were terrible, terrible lumps of metal. Were the later PRVs ever any good? He said this one had ~200k mi. on it. A wagon with a 6 cyl seems like an interesting proposition. What you saw was probably a 760. The early PRV motors (B27, B28) were the bad ones and were mostly found in the 262C Bertone or 264/265 DL/GL. The later one (the B280) came out around 1985 or 1986 and ironed out most, if not all, of the kinks of the earlier PRVs and is generally regarded as a fine motor. If you do manage to find one in a 760 or a 780 Bertone, it's not going to make for a particularly quick car, as it only developed 150 horsepower or so. If you want a 6-cylinder wagon, I'd look for a 960 - it's going to be a nicer/better car all around. The only reason I'd look exclusively for a PRV-equipped 760 would be for the sake of owning an odd duck.
|
|
#
?
Feb 2, 2011 21:11
|
|
|
ch1mp posted:My neighbor, who works at a sketchy used car lot, brought a 740 home for lunch. I was asking him about it and he said it was a 6 cyl. This caught my attention. I didn't bother him to look under the hood but I assume this is a PRV v6. Wikipedia doesn't list the inline 6 as an option on the 740. Is this correct? I know the early PRV's were terrible, terrible lumps of metal. Were the later PRVs ever any good? He said this one had ~200k mi. on it. A wagon with a 6 cyl seems like an interesting proposition. Try to find a 98 V70.. I'm really happy with mine so far, even with all the small repairs I've had or will be doing..
|
|
#
?
Feb 2, 2011 23:34
|
|
|
In re: the PRV, if it looks like this:  It's a B280, and should be a quite decent engine, assuming it's been kept up. If it looks like this:  It's a B28, and probably isn't worth the trouble.
|
|
#
?
Feb 2, 2011 23:41
|
|
|
Got my A/C delete bracket welded, picking up my friend down south, driving up past LA to pick up a full turbo-back 3" exhaust system + wideband 02 sensor for $350, then heading back to my place to do some late-night car work. Where can I obtain a 30a fuse connection for my 940 e-fan? Once I bolt it on splice it in, the car is gonna be taken for a test drive. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 3, 2011 03:49
|
|
|
E/N ahead! I finally had to break down and take the 940 to a local shop. They apparently found a section of the wiring harness running to the radio frequency suppression relay (basically, the fuel injector power relay) that was shorting to something underhood that had to be replaced. The voltage fluctuations that this caused also ruined the relay, so I'll be enjoying a new one of those as well. I guess it goes to show that some things just have to be left to the pros, as there was no way I could have figured that out on my own.
|
|
#
?
Feb 3, 2011 20:21
|
|
|
Pssh, I can't even get dressed in the morning without W&W telling me what to wear, so you're fine. We all have our disabilities. Just picked up a 3" SAM turbo-back exhaust from a local tbricker for $250. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2011 02:20
|
|
|
So I just picked up a Volvo S70, and want to replace the stereo. Anyone know a good place to look?
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2011 18:59
|
|
|
E2M2 posted:So I just picked up a Volvo S70, and want to replace the stereo. Anyone know a good place to look? Are you in the US? Junkyards for a stock one; Crutchfield for an aftermarket replacement. Crutchfield will give you all the install poo poo you need for free, too.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2011 19:03
|
|
|
I'm trying to help my friend redo the PCV system for his earlier (I believe) 850 Turbo. Everything about this job is a huge headache and I want to kill myself. But before I do I need to finish so he can go to work. Off the turbo in the back is the air intake. When doin the PCV you need to insert some doohickey that comes from the exhaust manifold into the air intake hose/plastic tube. Attempts at dicking around trying to make it fit while the intake is attached have proven unsuccessful. Unless someone here has advice for doing this I need to get that intake hose/cylinder off. The problem is, its held on by a hose clamp whose bolt is impossible to get to. I think I may have jarred it from the underside of the car as it's now loose, yet still impossible to get off. I know I'm missing something and would appreciate some help.  Sorry, this is the only photo I took of the car. Hopefully at least now you know what engine I am referring to.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2011 06:51
|
|
|
Finally got the o2 sensors changed out. I cleared the code, seems on some forum I read about some procedure you should do involving getting the car up to 50 for twenty minutes, stopping for 5 and returning for another 20 minutes at 50? Anyone know what this would be about? Or is it just a way to clear the code without a reader? The car rides great but needs an alignment bad. I am hoping the steering will not be vague, but it still seemed a little "floaty." Couldn't get the car up to speed it is so badly out of line. Could the rack itself cause a floaty feel? I was pretty convinced it was the blown rear shocks. Maybe the rear springs need to go as well. Anyone know where I can get those (again 99 v70 xc). Edit: Call from mechanic who was doing the alignment. Bad axle on the driver's side, they are putting a new one in for $250 tomorrow. Sounded like a decent deal considering I would be out the car for another week if I ordered one myself and snowpacolypse is supposed to hit Mississippi again bringing upwards of an inch of snow. EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 00:54 on Feb 8, 2011 |
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2011 23:58
|
|
|
Turned on my heater tonight to hear the fan going out and blowing coolant air up into the windshield... Ordered - heater core, blower motor, o-rings, and heater junction connection for about $350 from IPD... In addtion to the front struts, tie rod ends, end links, and other things.... about $1k total this month for parts. Hopefully it's worth it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2011 05:28
|
|
|
Mcqueen posted:I'm trying to help my friend redo the PCV system for his earlier (I believe) 850 Turbo. Everything about this job is a huge headache and I want to kill myself. If you could take a couple pics of what you are referring to I might be able to help. Are you referring to the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)? Could also be referring to the PCV hoses but they come from the evap canister and the intake manifold not the exhaust manifold. I don't think 850 Turbos came with EGR but Volvo changes things up so much it wouldn't surprise me.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2011 08:23
|
|
|
Did anyone see the Volvo C30 PoleStar on Top Gear last night? I was almost dialing my local Volvo Dealer midway through the show to put down $30k when they said it wasn't going into production. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cC5rZ7H_dbU I would absolutely buy one of these immediately (and it's even the same color as my first 240)
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2011 21:01
|
|
|
I may be talking to myself, but the car (99 v70 xc) is out of the shop. Ride is much improved. Steering, somewhat. It still feels non-responsive, maybe that is just how these cars are. The only things I think I could replace would be springs, the rack and tires. I am going for tires first just to see (the car has some mismatched crappy tires on it at purchase). The Goodyear store can sell me Goodyear Eagle GTs, Dunlop Signatures or Kelly Navigator Tour Golds for within $20 bucks of each other at around $450 mounted and balanced. The Firestone store is a little cheaper on their high performance Firehawks. The guru at the vovloxc forum tells me Toyos should not be on my short list, but I am still thinking of the Versados due to everyone saying how quiet they are. (But I would trade that for something that sticks and doesn't float) The dealer can get Contis, special order which I think probably means about $500 for 4 tires. I've never had much luck with Michelins, but am willing to give them a shot on this car as it is the first AWD I have ever owned. What do you guys say? Willing to consider a summer only tire as it (usually) rarely snows here if the tire sticks and is quiet.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2011 02:59
|
|
|
I also wish Mcqueen would take a few more photos.EvellSnoats posted:You aren't just talking to yourself, I just couldn't think of a good answer to the floatiness issue; I've mulled it on the highway the last two days though. My gut says I get floaty steering from underinflated tires, weak springs, and/or toe-out in the front. Shocks are unlikely to be your problem. Mismatched tires could easily be the entire issue, for the same reason toe-out would be a problem: each one tries to track down the street differently, and the dominant tire changes often as the car's center of gravity moves during normal driving's mild turns etc. Get Michelins, Volvos like the stiff thicker corner. Crappy mismatched tires on AWD is a frightening prospect, I hope they were only on there because the PO wanted to keep his tires.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2011 04:57
|
|
|
EvellSnoats posted:The dealer can get Contis, special order which I think probably means about $500 for 4 tires. I've never had much luck with Michelins, but am willing to give them a shot on this car as it is the first AWD I have ever owned. What do you guys say? I've used Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Position on my 98 S70... probably going to put a set on my 98 V70R once I get the cash. Quiet, good handling, and even decent in light snow (if northern WI is anything to go by).
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2011 05:17
|
|
|
I'm hoping its tires. That rack looks like a pia to replace. After saying we rarely get snow, 5 inches or so has fallen today. The car does handle very well on snow. The shocks are brand new. If it isn't the tires it may just be I'm expecting it to handle like my 540i and I will just live with it for a while and replace the rack when it warms up.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2011 00:42
|
|
|
I'm sorry, we got the hose off and I forgot to take pictures. I lent my real camera to my sister so camera phone pics only. It was seriously from the turbo to the intake box, turns out my buddy isnt a fat fucker like me and could get a screwdriver in there. We got it all patchd back up, he took it around the block. After that, we do an oil change, start it up and gas is spraying everywhere. Also, into my eyes. Does the fuel rail and the fuel rail cover need to be tightend down for a good seal on the injectors? The car ran fine and no gas spray before this, I assume the rail needs to be tight-end down prior to driving? This is an 850 Turbo Also, I cought a pretty awesome high on fumes so if this post sucks I am verry sorry but im definatly not drunk posting.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2011 05:37
|
|
|
The bolts through the rail to the manifold are what puts force on the injectors to hold them in place, yeah. If you pull those bolts, you can just yank the whole rail off. The manifold's aluminum, the rail can be deformed; use a torque wrench.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2011 07:29
|
|
|
Ether Frenzy posted:Did anyone see the Volvo C30 PoleStar on Top Gear last night? I was almost dialing my local Volvo Dealer midway through the show to put down $30k when they said it wasn't going into production. I'd never seen or heard of the C30 until Top Gear, and suddenly found myself excited about a Volvo. What I've read is that the PoleStar would be a $60k+ low production run, they did a hell of a lot of work to it and built something essentially just for the track. There is a more likely rumor of a C30R, 300hp factory AWD version that starts in the mid $30k range eventually coming out.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2011 08:08
|
|
|
EvellSnoats posted:Willing to consider a summer only tire as it (usually) rarely snows here if the tire sticks and is quiet. Tires will definitely affect handling and feel dramatically. I go from my 18" 40 series in the summer to my 17" 45 series in the winter, and the car actually yaws like it's spinning out. I have to totally readjust to the feel of the car when I switch. Consider going up a size on the wheels and getting a sporty all season if you really want to tighten the car up while maintaining a quiet ride and still having some occasional snow capability. Those V70s ran fairly small wheels with huge sidewalls if I remember right. I run cooper zeon sport tires on my C70 with 18" wheels and it's quiet and comfortable but handles like it's on rails. The Hankooks I run on my wagon are tight handling but noisy as hell. I thought I had a bad wheel bearing in the first car I put them on.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2011 18:55
|
|
|
Lloyd, what wheels would you (or anyone else) suggest for the V70 XC? Was there a 16" option one might get cheap? I think a little larger wheel would look a lot better and improve handling.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2011 00:45
|
|
|
EvellSnoats posted:Lloyd, what wheels would you (or anyone else) suggest for the V70 XC? Was there a 16" option one might get cheap? http://forums.swedespeed.com/forumdisplay.php?48-Wheels-Tires-Classifieds Start here and look through the sticky threads at the top. Knowing which wheels are common and which are rare takes some looking around, don't just pick from those lists and get your heart set on one design, because it might be rare. But you might get lucky. Anyway, there are a huge variety of 16, 17, and even 18 inch wheels that will fit your car. Amaltheas for example are extremely common, they came on every S60 T5 and V70 T5 from '01 to '04 and junkyards or Volvo shops that stock parts cars should have tons of them. Last one I bought was $50. Basically most of the wheels in that link should fit your car, especially if it came off of an 850, S60, S70 or V70 of either generation.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2011 04:28
|
|
|
What's it take to go LED crazy on an old 740's interior lighting? Particularly the dash/console stuff.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2011 05:34
|
|
|
I've been wanting to drive through southwest for a very long time now, but I never really had the time or means to. This summer, I'm hoping to with a plan that revolves around "on the cheap". The two cars I have aren't really suited for the trip so I'm looking at Volvo wagons for their reliability and insanely high depreciation. The budget for this car is around $1500, preferably less. Is it crazy to think that $1500 Volvo can make a 6,000 mile drive without a major mechanical breakdown? My budget is putting me in 150,000 mile and up range, and I would think that a car with that many miles would laugh at 6,000 more. As long as a repair doesn't require removing the engine, I'm fairly capable at roadside repair. Now that I think about it, every repair I've made has been somewhere other than my house. Coming along for the ride will be a nice selection of tools, fluids, and consumable parts. Now if I find one of these sub $1500 Volvos without any major issues, how crazy would I be to trust that it can reliably transport me for 6,000 miles? This 245 is exactly the kind of car I'm thinking about. It likely won't be this one because the funds aren't quite together yet. http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/2192468952.html
|
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2011 06:56
|
|
|
That particular one has the K-Jet injection system, which will be really tough to fix on the road if anything (aside from the fuel pump) goes south. Spare parts are tough to get, and from owning an auto '81 245, you'll be in a world of hurt without overdrive. Plus, the engine barely made 100HP when it was new, so it'll be a total slug with the AC on (assuming it even has it). I would not buy that car. In general, the big issue with 240s is that there are too many whose owners have taken on the "HURR IT GO 500K" mentality, and put off the basic maintenance, like timing belts, water pumps, shocks, bushings, etc. If you really must have one for your roadtrip, I'd get an '88-'93 model (since the wiring is guaranteed not to be bad) and do the timing belt, water pump, and fuel filter. Once that's done, I'd keep a set of injectors, a fuel and spark computer, and a spare fuel pump in the trunk, since those are the main failure points. If it's an '89-'93 model, I'd also keep a spare crank position sensor on hand. With that stuff done, the car should be pretty drat trustworthy, but if something does go south, you'll have the stuff to fix it, and none of the above are that hard to do. Even so, they're loud, cramped cars, and the suspension bushings are often shot by this time, so putting a ton of miles on one could get really abusive. Plus, the seats wear out really badly in a lot of cases, and replacement foam is tough to get, so if that's an issue, you might be really uncomfortable after 100 miles, much less 6000. In short: $1500 probably won't get you a "reliable" 240, and even if you do get lucky, even the newest ones are almost 20 years old at this point, so there's a lot of stuff that's probably worn out. Expect to put at least $500-$1000 into whatever you buy to get it shipshape.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2011 07:26
|
|
|
Look at 740 and 940s as well. They're just as reliable as a 240 and much more comfortable.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2011 07:51
|
|
|
It looks like you're in Ohio - if so, and if you find a particular car that you want to look at, I'd be happy to help you determine whether it's any good or not. I live in the Dayton area.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2011 08:08
|
|
82Daion posted:In short: $1500 probably won't get you a "reliable" 240, and even if you do get lucky, even the newest ones are almost 20 years old at this point, so there's a lot of stuff that's probably worn out. Expect to put at least $500-$1000 into whatever you buy to get it shipshape. The only factors that are coming into this are room, reliability, and gas mileage. I'm aiming for this to be a very spartan trip. Comfort is far down on the list of what I am worried about. I make 12 hour drives in a Fiero every now and again so I'm pretty used to cruising around with a sore rear end. My idea of what can be fixed in a lot or on the side of the road differs from what others might think. So far I have replaced or repaired a water pump, fuel pump, alternator, starter, and throttle cable in less than ideal conditions.
|
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2011 08:08
|
|
|
My N/A '89 740 wagon has 300,000 miles on it and I drove it at least 2,000 miles over Christmas visiting family across the Northeast. Bought it with 220,000 for just a grand (he couldn't sell it for months at $1,250 v v) three years ago, spent ~$2,000 in maintenance so far (counting tires and oil etc). Everything you need to fix you can do in the street with some jackstands and simple tools. Parts are readily available; most dealerships and Advance/Autozone can do you next-day, Carquest can usually do same-day if you ask in the AM. For $1,300 of "I want to use this to be a reliable touring car" I sure as hell wouldn't buy something from 1979 when I could get something from the late '80s to early '90s that still has good parts availability. There's stuff on Craigslist all the time in the Northern VA area that would serve you much much better. I'll look for some examples. I think the interior on a 240 isn't made for touring, but if you're set on that bodystyle, you can get them right up to 1992. And if I were you (unless you find a 960) I'd shop for something with a turbo: on the 740 it's 50% more bhp and nearly 50% more torque. My wife's is a turbo model and I would prefer the much better pull if I was touring about the country, especially with a lot of poo poo in the trunk/roof. To chime in on what 82Daion said, these cars really only get sold for two reasons: the owner got something newer, or they've been clued in to an impending catastrophic failure and want to get away from it before the value's visibly reduced. In my '89s case, a badly leaking front cam seal. If the seller doesn't have a ready answer when you offhandedly say "So what'd you get to replace this old beauty, anyhow?", start looking for The Problem. e: beaten during composition, heh ee: I don't even like 240s but the front end of the car you linked loving rules, even more than my quad pods. I love the old headlamps.  Oh, and if you're planning on driving around the Southwest in the summer, try to get one with a sunroof. You probably don't want it open when the sun's up  , but a sunroof's loving amazing on a hot night on the highway.
Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 08:32 on Feb 11, 2011 |
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2011 08:19
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 12:35 |
|
TheJeffers posted:It looks like you're in Ohio - if so, and if you find a particular car that you want to look at, I'd be happy to help you determine whether it's any good or not. I live in the Dayton area. LloydDobler posted:Look at 740 and 940s as well. They're just as reliable as a 240 and much more comfortable. Splizwarf posted:
Splizwarf posted:ee: I don't even like 240s but the front end of the car you linked loving rules, even more than my quad pods. I love the old headlamps. Splizwarf posted:And if I were you (unless you find a 960) I'd shop for something with a turbo: on the 740 it's 50% more bhp and nearly 50% more torque. My wife's is a turbo model and I would prefer the much better pull if I was touring about the country, especially with a lot of poo poo in the trunk/roof. astrollinthepork fucked around with this message at 08:33 on Feb 11, 2011 |
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2011 08:20
|
|