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Cassiope posted:I think she just starts barking later, after we have been gone awhile. What my boyfriend wants to try is a bark collar. They spray citronella when the dog barks. I think that if it comes down to you being evicted or having to get rid of Moxie then a citronella spray collar miiiiiight be worthwhile. The tough thing is that she's barking because she's anxious (duh) so treating the symptoms really won't do much in the long run. Plus some dogs get immune to the smell, or will run it down on batteries then bark to their hearts' content, or just generally don't care. I would try the DAP stuff, and then down the road maybe try another way to enclose her -- maybe in another room, in an x-pen, or even free in the house. There's a possibility that she's attached too much negative baggage to the crate. But honestly I doubt it since she seems fine with it while in your presence.
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Feb 9, 2011 02:28
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It can sometimes freak dogs out even more, or they learn that if they can just stand it long enough, they can empty the canister and bark freely. I knew someone who used one in a similar circumstance, and while it helped some, it wasn't a perfect solution for sure e: just basically saying I'd definitely look into other solutions first Levitate fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Feb 9, 2011 |
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Feb 9, 2011 02:32
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Yeah, I was pretty skeptical but thought I'd see what y'all thought anyway. My boyfriend is an idiot and is way too reactive about this whole thing. He wants to use a shock collar. Convo went like this: Me: I don't think the citronella will stop her barking Bf: No we need a shock collar. Me: What? No. Bf: Why? Me: We're never putting a shock collar on this dog. It wouldn't stop her barking anyway, it would just make her more manic and anxious. Bf: You can't tell me that if she were getting shocked she would just keep barking. Me: Yes she would, or she would shut down and be worse off than before. Bf: No, she would be getting shocked just when she barked, she's smart enough to figure that out. Me: No. We can get her a pheromone collar. Ugh, I hope he was just trolling me. I am not getting a shock collar or barking collar for her. We're amping up the training. Thanks for all the suggestions guys
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Feb 9, 2011 02:35
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Cassiope posted:Yeah, I was pretty skeptical but thought I'd see what y'all thought anyway. My boyfriend is an idiot and is way too reactive about this whole thing. He wants to use a shock collar. Convo went like this: Holy poo poo, a shock collar. How long has it been since you moved? Give the poor dog a little time to get used to it. Ugh, I'll never understand why people think pain is the answer. Would you hit a child if you just moved and he wouldn't stop crying about it*? *I know you wouldn't, I'm just saying this line of thinking is so stupid.
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Feb 9, 2011 02:52
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Yeah I think shock collars on an anxious dog like that are more likely to make her freak out and keep barking. Dogs will definitely do that if they're just beyond their ability to control themselves, and it's pretty terrible if they're stuck with a shock collar on
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Feb 9, 2011 02:53
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This will be our...third or fourth night in the new place. Yeah don't worry, I'm not letting any shock collars happen ever. I made him do the crate training time tonight and I think he gets it, he was just anxious about noise violations. Honestly I don't think the barking is a new behavior, I think we just now have neighbors close enough to hear it. I'm still going to give her lots of time to get settled, and we're going to play music and get a pheromone collar and everything. I just wanted to share the shock collar convo because I knew y'all would have the same reaction as me.
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Feb 9, 2011 04:07
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I apologize as this might be a bit long winded, but I am doing my best with the situation and for the sake of the dogs involved. Moved in with my boyfriend and his mother who has issues with mental illness... little did I know how bad it was until a few weeks in. They have two dogs, who although have the potential to be very sweet have never been properly trained:  This is Max. I'm guessing he's some kind of Beagle Pug mix... maybe some Terrier? He's a straight up energetic crack head. I finally after about two months have got him leash trained and he's doing pretty good with not pissing all over the house every time I mop like he did when I first moved in.  It also helped that my boyfriend finally stopped being so lazy and has helped with the walking duties since he's essentially Max's master. I'm currently trying to stop him from nipping, but I'm kind of at a loss. Then we have Baby Girl...  She's a Maltese they got from a friend of a friend... Her teeth are horrible and she spends all day laying around, staring at you with Bambi eyes and eating all of Max's food. She has issues with aggression and separation anxiety as well, which is kinda ironic because my boyfriend's mom literally spends no quality time with either dog.  This is the best she's looked since I finally got in everyone's face to get her groomed since her hair was getting matted and she was getting all aggro from not being able to see. But it's ok because no one wanted to spend $15 to get her groomed until I finally just cut her hair myself. Baby Girl loves eating poop. She also barks... A LOT. I've managed to tone it down a bit since I first moved in but I'm slowly training her everyday.My boyfriend's mum lays in her room all day and let's them lay on her bed while she's eating and she basically does not help with training at all, I FINALLY got her to stop feeding them people food or cheap dollar store dog food. I'm a bit scared that all these things I am doing to try to instill good behaviour is kind of moot since I'm getting limited if any help from my boyfriend or his mum. I can understand her since she's got some mental illness issues but I told them that they shouldn't have animals if they aren't going to take care of them.  tl;dr version: Am I just wasting my time by being the only one really training the dogs or should I keep going? Every single thing I've bought to try to aid the process has been met with half hearted praise or advice to spend my money more wisely. 
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Feb 9, 2011 05:13
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Do they just not help, or do they actively work against you (intentionally or otherwise)?
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Feb 9, 2011 05:23
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Flesh Forge posted:Do they just not help, or do they actively work against you (intentionally or otherwise)? My boyfriend and I are kind of in the same boat, we work constantly and when we get home are tired, but he'll go do stuff with Max like walk him if I have to work late. His problem is purely that he is lazy. His mum however has done poo poo like taken the harness I got for Max the first time and thrown it on the floor which he promptly tore up, will let him run outside and just shut the door, which frightens me since we don't live in a good neighbourhood and he almost got ran over once by a redneck in a truck. I don't know if she just doesn't give a poo poo, doesn't know any better, if its just the mental illness at work, or a nice blend of all of it.
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Feb 9, 2011 05:34
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So I'm carrying over from the general question thread. I've read pretty much everything on the first page of this thread, watched at least a half dozen kikopup how-tos, and have been working on my pooch with some very welcome success. The big question I have is: what is a good lesson succession? I'm basing this off of kikopup's videos. Me and the gf have been working on the click-treat association as well as basics like "leave it" and eye contact. Our dog already knows basic verbal commands like Sit, but I kind of want to bring everything under the clicker umbrella. So what are good lessons that follow onto basic clicker training?
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Feb 9, 2011 05:36
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SyHopeful posted:So I'm carrying over from the general question thread. I'm not sure what you mean...you can mostly teach your dog things in any order depending on if you have any issues you want to deal with or things that are particularly important (like a good recall). If you want to do some 'advanced' clicker training, you can try your hand at shaping. Shaping is building a difficult behavior through a succession of smaller steps. In this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0XuafyPwkg, Dr. Sophia Yin teaches a dog to put her feet in a box by rewarding behavior that moves toward that goal. I think a life less put up a similar demo somewhere. Edit: I'm aware that Dr. Yin doesn't actually use a clicker in the video. Ha. Kiri koli fucked around with this message at 05:47 on Feb 9, 2011 |
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Feb 9, 2011 05:44
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I got a harness for my puppy, now 14 weeks old, and he didn't mind it at all for the first few times, then suddenly he won't let me put it on him and in fact runs when I get it out. I have no idea what happened. I don't recall anything traumatic, but then, I'm not him. I'm thinking the last time he stuck his head into it willingly was right before I took him to puppy play time. At playtime, I unsnapped the leash, but left the harness on. So we're not using the harness for now, but I'm not sure how to get back into it. Treats have so far not proven effective at all. 
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Feb 9, 2011 06:15
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Kiri koli posted:I'm not sure what you mean...you can mostly teach your dog things in any order depending on if you have any issues you want to deal with or things that are particularly important (like a good recall). Sorry if I wasn't clear, I'm just looking for other basic things to move on to once he makes the C/T association. Is it really just a matter of picking the issues that most need addressing? His leash behavior is poor, and I've watched all of kikopup's videos on training leash behavior, I just want to make sure I'm not moving from basic stuff to advanced stuff without skipping any intermediate, foundational training.
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Feb 9, 2011 06:35
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^^^ I want to say that any sort of training should be okay as long as you are not frustrating your dog. Always set the dog up for success and in that way the dog sets what kind of training it can receive. Maybe others have a more solid training schedule though.Rhymes With Clue posted:I got a harness for my puppy, now 14 weeks old, and he didn't mind it at all for the first few times, then suddenly he won't let me put it on him and in fact runs when I get it out. I have no idea what happened. I don't recall anything traumatic, but then, I'm not him. Psyche decided she hated her harness one day as well (turns out it was too tight because she gained some weight). So I did a shaping exercise with her until she liked it again. Did the same thing with her head collar and her muzzle. I'm not sure if this is a little advanced for a puppy that young but here's what I did: You start out with the harness just sitting on the floor and get the puppy to approach and then nose it. Treat for any movement toward it. Then pick it up without moving it toward the puppy and treat for puppy standing still or moving toward/nosing it. Then move it toward the puppy just a bit, then take it back away and treat for puppy not moving away from it. Keep moving it incrementally closer and if the puppy moves away, back up a step. You can have them sit if it helps them not move away. Eventually you'll get it over their head and they will have developed a habit of not moving away. Then you can keep giving treats when it's time to put it on. Treats are probably not being effective because you're starting with the behavior that sets the dog off. The harness sitting on the floor will be easier for puppy to approach for a first step. I can supply a video about incremental muzzle training if you'd like to see this kind of thing in action.
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Feb 9, 2011 06:51
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Thanks, I will try this. For some reason he seems to have picked this week to just become a holy terror, but he might also have gained some weight. (Hard to tell if the harness is too tight if I can't even get near him. Maybe I could try a tape measure.)
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Feb 9, 2011 07:20
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Yatsuha posted:tl;dr version: Am I just wasting my time by being the only one really training the dogs or should I keep going? Every single thing I've bought to try to aid the process has been met with half hearted praise or advice to spend my money more wisely. That sounds like a frustrating situation. The answer is that it's much more difficult to train out unwanted behaviours if not everyone is on board. However I know my dog acts differently when she's with me than when she's with other people. Dogs don't generalize well, but you can do your best to teach the dogs how you want them to act when they're with you. The basic rule of thumb is you need to look at what the dogs are doing now, identify what you don't want (a lot, it sounds like) and then train what you DO want instead. This means you're not punishing the dogs for disobedience, you're showing them the right answer and you're rewarding them for it. There are a few posts in this thread about some of the behavioural issues you describe that should give you a rough idea of how to address them. If you need more specific advice, let us know about your specific problem. Right now it sounds like you're overwhelmed -- I would be too. SyHopeful posted:So I'm carrying over from the general question thread. The first part is always going to be charging the clicker, which it sounds like you've got underway. The next step that I like to do is to move on to a command the dog already knows to show him or her how the clicker marks the behaviour and indicates a reward. Most of the time this means working on sit and down. You can also work on something called assumed attention, where you click and treat your dog giving you its attention. To start you have your dog on a short leash (maybe 2-3 feet of slack) and stand in a boring room. You're going to wait... and wait... and do nothing but wait until the dog looks up at you as if to say "okay, what gives?" and then you're going to click that eye contact and reward. And then wait again. The key is not to ask for the dog's attention, but for it to give its attention to you. Some dogs "get" the game faster than others, but eventually regardless of the dog you'll eventually have a dog sitting in front of you staring at your face, enjoying the steady flow of treats you're providing. The basics of obedience are sit, down, stay, stand, and heel (did I miss one?) so those are normally good places to start off. You can also do tricks like paw or spin -- they're easy for a dog to pick up. Building proper loose leash walking can take a considerable amount of time (see some of the loose leash walking updates from posters in this thread) so it'll probably be one of the first things you start working on, and one of the last things you'll finally train. Rhymes With Clue posted:I got a harness for my puppy, now 14 weeks old, and he didn't mind it at all for the first few times, then suddenly he won't let me put it on him and in fact runs when I get it out. I have no idea what happened. I don't recall anything traumatic, but then, I'm not him. A dog suddenly not liking a harness isn't automatically indicative of having had a bad experience. Mine doesn't like them since she doesn't like anything tightening around the bottom of her chest. As Kiri koli said, the treats weren't working because you went too fast. The dislike of the harness is greater than the desire for a treat. So, work in increments. Is his desire for a treat greater than his dislike of seeing the harness on the other side of the room? How about if it's laying there a foot away? How about if you pick it up and manipulate it while he's sitting two feet away? How about if you hold it up for him to sniff? With enough repetitions (over a few days) you should be able to dramatically decrease his dislike of the harness since it will end up meaning that whenever he can see it he'll be getting food stuffed into his face.
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Feb 9, 2011 14:44
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Rhymes With Clue posted:I got a harness for my puppy, now 14 weeks old, and he didn't mind it at all for the first few times, then suddenly he won't let me put it on him and in fact runs when I get it out. I have no idea what happened. I don't recall anything traumatic, but then, I'm not him. You've already got solutions, but are you sure the pup's reaction to the harness is fear/anxiety and not just plain old puppy excitement? E.g. with Darla, when she knows treats are at stake, she is a perfect lady and will be completely still while I put the harness on her. If she doesn't think there's anything at stake, her discipline goes way down and she behaves like a fussy little brat (which she is) and it's almost impossible to get the harness on her, squirming, nipping me and all that. This only lasts until we're outside and walking though, it's just excitement OMG WE'RE GONNA WALK HURRY UP OMG OMG gently caress WALK WAAAAAALK
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Feb 9, 2011 16:22
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a life less posted:The basics of obedience are sit, down, stay, stand, and heel (did I miss one?) so those are normally good places to start off. Come and Leave It are pretty important imo.
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Feb 9, 2011 16:24
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a life less posted:
Started with clicker training with my dog Monty last night (well technically Monday, but that was just click then treat to get the clicker = treat reaction) and ran into a set back. He is super food motivated, and will just sit and stare at the hand holding the treats. I was working on clicking every time he would look away from my hand, but he always just comes back to intently watching my hand hoping for a treat. Do I just keep plugging away with that? The other thought I had was to make a sound so he would look up at me, reward that and try to get him focusing on me instead of the treats.
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Feb 9, 2011 18:10
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Demon_Corsair posted:Started with clicker training with my dog Monty last night (well technically Monday, but that was just click then treat to get the clicker = treat reaction) and ran into a set back. Why are you holding treats in your hand? Is it completely necessary? Much of dog training is based on teaching the dog to follow a lure. You each a dog to follow a lure upwards to have it sit, and downwards for a down. But the key to teaching with a lure is that you have to fade it quickly. I'm not someplace I can watch videos, but this one may articulate it better than I can: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NHqAW66-gE The idea is that you use a nice juicy lure only 2-3 times and then you fake your dog out, pretend to have a treat in your hand, but then when you get the behaviour (which you've been getting with a visible treat), oh, psyche! The treat's coming from the other hand! You're still using the same movement and teaching the dog to follow your hand regardless of whether something is in it. Also, the beauty of a clicker is that once your dog has caught on to the game you don't have to have any treats actually on your person. You click and the dog knows what it just did was what you wanted, and you can take a few seconds to actually grab the treat and offer it (faster is better, but...). When I do training at home I keep most of my treats in a cup on the other side of the room. My dog simply cannot stare at the food and pay attention to me to see what I want from her. If the food is there and I'm waving it around in her face you bet she'll stare at it instead of me -- it's only natural (especially when teaching newish behaviours). So put the treats away. Use a cup, keep the treats in a waist pouch, or something similar. Keep them easily accessible but out of sight.
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Feb 9, 2011 18:22
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After "charging" the clicker itself, probably the first thing you should start working on is teaching Monty his name. My noobish advice: It's very important to be unpredictable imo. Don't leave the treats visible. Use either hand to fire the clicker. Put your hands behind your back or in your pockets. Use different kinds of treats that have different smells. Don't make a big production of "OKAY IT'S TIME TO TRAIN, YAY!" or "OKAY WE'RE DONE!!" Consider getting a bait bag and keeping it with you most of the time around the dog so you don't have to carry gross poo poo in your pockets. Even when you get past your current road block (and I'm sure you will) if you aren't predictable, then he'll quickly figure out when he'll be rewarded, and when there's nothing at stake he'll be a lot less disciplined. In my case it's like I have two dogs in one, an amazingly smart and eerily calm one, and a fruity hyper spoiled little brat who barks and bites and runs around like a total spaz. Sometimes it's frustrating how perceptive Darla is, e.g. I'm sitting here typing on my old school IBM clickety keyboard while she's sleeping ... I try to sneak my hand into my pocket to click/treat her for being good and the very faint cowbell sound of the clicker's metal brushing the cloth inside the pocket WAKES HER UP, she's looking at me and on her best behavior. Makes it hard to capture natural things she won't be doing if she knows we're training. edit: \/\/\/ EXACTLY \/\/\/ Flesh Forge fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Feb 9, 2011 |
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Feb 9, 2011 18:28
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Hey a life less, did you ever have any problems with your dog being too focused on you or waiting for a command when you try to do behavior shaping? Like I'm thinking of the video you posted of teaching Cohen to pick up her food bowl, and all I can see is my dog ignoring the food bowl and waiting for me to do something. Is there some kind of work you need to do to get the dog more into figuring out what you want from it rather than waiting for a command? Or just start really small and gradually build it up
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Feb 9, 2011 18:29
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a life less posted:Why are you holding treats in your hand? Is it completely necessary? I had assumed you wanted a minimal delay between click and treat. Will have to play around with that for a bit. Also, good to know that I don't always need treats on me, so if he is doing something good I want to capture, I can just click, get up and go get him a reward. Pretty sure this process is going involve me learning more stuff then the dog. Think I will attempt the have him focus on me when I say his name drill? exercise? technique? And just have the treats out of sight or in my pocket so there is nothing more exciting then me to focus on. E: Levitate posted:Is there some kind of work you need to do to get the dog more into figuring out what you want from it rather than waiting for a command? Or just start really small and gradually build it up This is kind of where I am at as well. I had previously used more traditional training methods, so he is used to getting commands to do stuff instead of figuring it out for himself. Demon_Corsair fucked around with this message at 18:41 on Feb 9, 2011 |
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Feb 9, 2011 18:37
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Levitate posted:Hey a life less, did you ever have any problems with your dog being too focused on you or waiting for a command when you try to do behavior shaping? Like I'm thinking of the video you posted of teaching Cohen to pick up her food bowl, and all I can see is my dog ignoring the food bowl and waiting for me to do something. I know the question wasn't directed at me, but I'm gonna throw my two cents in. I had to teach Moxie to play with her kong wobbler through shaping, as well as a few other things. Basically you just start extremely small. When she would glance anywhere in the general direction of the wobbler I would click and treat, then when she would look at it, then when she would get closer to it, then when she would touch it, etc. etc. until she was knocking it all around the room. To get her to stop focusing on me and understand "hey mess with this" I just point at it/try to draw her attention to the object I want her to interact with. It seems to work for her, but this may be because we have another command "find it" in which I point out a treat or food tidbit on the ground. She knows if she goes in the direction I am pointing she is more likely to find it quickly.
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Feb 9, 2011 19:32
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Cool, I think that's what I was looking for more or less, thanks
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Feb 9, 2011 19:34
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Levitate posted:Cool, I think that's what I was looking for more or less, thanks No problem  I'm still learning but glad I can help once in a while too
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Feb 9, 2011 19:47
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Levitate posted:Hey a life less, did you ever have any problems with your dog being too focused on you or waiting for a command when you try to do behavior shaping? Like I'm thinking of the video you posted of teaching Cohen to pick up her food bowl, and all I can see is my dog ignoring the food bowl and waiting for me to do something. Yeah, I ran into this problem not too long ago. I vowed to do a lot more shaping with Cohen to get her more used to offering behaviours. If left along/ignored, Cohen will sit or lay down and stare into the back of my head. Yesterday during agility class I was trying to get her to do a nice contact after the teeter, she messed up and I waited around to see if she'd fix it, but nope... just sat there and stared at me for a good 20 seconds before getting frustrated and beginning to offer behaviours (she didn't end up getting the right one in this case -- we had to reset). I find if I just sit there and give zero feedback Cohen will still just sit there quasi-patiently and wait for instruction. Again this proved to be a huge pain (again in agility) where I wanted her to look ahead to her path and not at me standing off to the side. So the way I've managed to work around this is:
a life less fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Feb 9, 2011 |
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Feb 9, 2011 20:03
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After reading the OP, are clickers really the way to go for basic obedience such as sit/stay/praising for taking a dump outdoors? I am considering using one for our dog, but I don't want him dependent only on the clicker. Can you use both words and the clicker simultaneously to reinforce behavior? For example, if he is misbehaving and I want him to stay and dont have a clicker how would it work?
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Feb 9, 2011 20:04
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Nice, thanks. And I know what you mean about the dumb facial expressions, hah. Sylink, basically you just use the clicker to tell the dog when they did the right thing. Like with sit, you get your dog to sit and then you click and praise them and treat them. The dog learns that sitting when you give the cue for it (saying sit, or a hand gesture) will get them a treat. Then you taper off the clicking and treating so when they sit, you just give them praise or something. The clicker is just another form of reward, really. Same as saying "good dog!", just more precise
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Feb 9, 2011 20:31
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Sylink posted:After reading the OP, are clickers really the way to go for basic obedience such as sit/stay/praising for taking a dump outdoors? Clickers will help speed the learning process in just about every situation. You can definitely use both words and a clicker. For instance, my dog knows that "yes" means the same as a click because I "charged" the word the same way I would a click. I prefer the clicker because it's more precise, and it sets the dog up for some pretty fun future learning. Your last sentence confuses me a bit. The click is a marker for the correct behaviour, and is used during the learning process. A mistake a lot of people make is thinking that the click IS the reward. It's not. It's simply a bridge between the desired action and the reward that says "yes that's what I want, now you get a reward" in a fraction of a second. So if your dog is doing behaviour A and you want him to do behaviour B instead you can simply ask for it and mark the correct one with a "yes" if you don't have a clicker. Then you reward after the yes, just as you would the click.
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Feb 9, 2011 21:31
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The clicker is only needed to teach a trick in the first place and to oocasionally reinforce it from time to time, you don't use it every single time you get a trick. For positive training methods in general, you need to lose the entire approach of "stop doing X". It's "start doing Y incompatible thing". E.g., it isn't "stop barking", it's "START BEING SILENT".
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Feb 9, 2011 21:56
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Found an interesting article that clarifies some subtle distinctions in technique: http://www.clickertrain.com/articles/fisherpt2.shtml Excerpt: quote:In the beginning, it’s hard to have faith that this clicker stuff really works – just be patient and let the clicker do the communicating. It’s a natural human inclination to want to relieve the stress of learning – to alleviate any confusion or potential confusion the dog is feeling. This desire to actively help the dog is the most insidious habit of human beings, especially the lure-reward crossover trainer. When a dog seems confused, help him out. When a dog is frustrated, help him. When the dog acts helpless, come to his aid. When the trainer’s confidence in the method flies out the window, luring fills the void. I think there's some valuable information in there, at least for me.
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Feb 9, 2011 23:26
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Flesh Forge posted:Found an interesting article that clarifies some subtle distinctions in technique: This is the part that stood out to me quote:As if that’s not bad enough, after luring a few times in the mistaken belief that the problem was that the dog just needed to be shown a few more times, the trainer makes a renewed commitment to try shaping and waiting for behaviors. So she then tries to out-wait the dog – to hold out longer in hopes the dog will offer the behavior. But the dog doesn’t. After all, he’s already learned that he’s getting rewarded for inactivity – waiting to follow the lure. When the trainer holds out longer, but ultimately returns to a lure, she is simply increasing the duration of the wait. Not only does this reinforce waiting, it reinforces persistent waiting on a random schedule. I probably have some untraining to do.
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Feb 9, 2011 23:40
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For my part, I'm glad I've been keeping it really basic until I know a little more about what I'm doing and Darla is a bit less squirrelly. Just the stuff that's hard to really gently caress up, like Sit/Stay/Come/Down/Leave It, and for fun Touch (my finger, not a food lure).
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Feb 9, 2011 23:49
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Flesh Forge posted:Found an interesting article that clarifies some subtle distinctions in technique: The first is a sign of severe emotional trauma, the second is just doggy logic sabotaging the attempt at training. E: VVV I'm a nooby too, I just didn't want that definition to slide
DarkHorse fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Feb 10, 2011 |
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Feb 10, 2011 03:26
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Yeah I disagreed with the learned helplessness definition as well but didn't say anything (ima nooby).
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Feb 10, 2011 03:36
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Trip report. Session was pretty good. Worked on saying his name then waiting for eye contact. It ended up being say his name, then he would sit down before he looked at me, but I will take it. Not sure where to go from here though. I wanted to try some shaping with a foam roller, just to see what would happen if he would interact with it. Similar to the Dr yin video about getting the dog to jump in the box. I had typed up a big post about him not really showing any interest in it, until I started typing. Seems like the best way to get him to try new ways to get a click and to experiment is for me to just not pay attention to him. If I'm looking at him, he just stares intently at me. But when I turn away, he goes for it. Does that make any sense?
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Feb 10, 2011 03:59
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Demon_Corsair posted:If I'm looking at him, he just stares intently at me. But when I turn away, he goes for it. It's just the same with Darla.
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Feb 10, 2011 04:05
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Demon_Corsair posted:If I'm looking at him, he just stares intently at me. But when I turn away, he goes for it. Did you try being excited about the object and drawing his attention to it? Interacting can be as little at first as just looking or moving in the general direction of something. I guess he isn't doing that if he's staring at you. How long did you try waiting him out?
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Feb 10, 2011 04:16
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| # ? May 15, 2024 22:48 |
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Keep in mind that if he doesn't really know many tricks, he'll probably stick with stuff he knows works. If he knows that looking at you has gotten him treated consistently in the past and not much else, then that's the main thing he'll offer (not a bad thing at all imo).
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Feb 10, 2011 04:27
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