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mlmp08 posted:The story is pretty simple. In the Southwest, home builders don't know poo poo about cold weather and so having weather below freezing for merely 3-4 days and 2-3 inches of snow was enough to end up with entire neighborhoods without water, multiple electrical outages, and a pipe bursting in my wall and flooding my bedroom. I understand that it's typically warm down here, but seriously? I mean, the north manages to have months on end of freezing weather without pipes bursting and basic infrastructure falling apart. Was it an outside wall?
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Feb 4, 2011 00:48
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Was it an outside wall? Yeah. As far as where a pipe might burst, it makes sense. If I'm guessing correctly, it was a pipe in the wall which heads to a spigot outside. I'm mostly pissed because I lived in a place MUCH colder than this one for most of my life and never had these problems. It's also horrifying to realize how bad the insulation is here across the board when you see huge icicles forming in just one afternoon.
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Feb 4, 2011 03:12
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mlmp08 posted:Yeah. As far as where a pipe might burst, it makes sense. If I'm guessing correctly, it was a pipe in the wall which heads to a spigot outside. If they didnt install a frost free hosebib then it was there fault But if it was a frost free then you got to expect a entire building being with out heat for days should have had the water drained before it froze.
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Feb 4, 2011 03:52
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ack! posted:
Call a septic engineer and have them take a look. Your proximity to the water will probably require a mound-type engineered system and a custom designed leach field.
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Feb 4, 2011 16:34
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Yeah, that's what it looks like I'll have to due. The pump guy came and basically laughed at it. They were willing to work with me to get it to meet the basic requirements, but so much was wrong it might bite us all in the end. Now I'm shopping around for solutions. Thanks.
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Feb 4, 2011 16:37
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I've already asked about this in the craft thread, but I think that's pretty slow moving, so I'll try my luck here. I'm thinking of making the doll head paper weight from this book (click on Craft Projects > Baby Head Paper Weight), but waterproofing it for an aquarium. There'd be a hole at the base of the head where the plaster of paris would be exposed, and then I'd be spraying the entire thing with black and gold spray paint. I have absolutely no idea how I'd waterproof this, and as it's for a friend's axolotl tank, I'm very concerned about the risk of contaminating the water with anything that could hurt the little guy. Any ideas?
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Feb 6, 2011 09:31
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I don't think there'sa good permanent way to water proof that. You've got chemcals leaching out of the paints, the plastic and also the plaster. Sealing it with some kind of lacquer Might work, but it will be chipped at some point. Seems too risky for a kooky present, your buddy might be resentful if they think your present killed their little dude.
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Feb 6, 2011 16:15
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Anodynia posted:
Pretty pricy, but possibly an answer: http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=391&
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Feb 6, 2011 16:54
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Richard Noggin posted:Now you need to tell us how you flooded your basement.
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Feb 10, 2011 20:53
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Looking to replace the front door, back door and garage outside door at my house. Should I just get the pre-hung doors? If I do so, I'd have to break away the outside stucco to do so, and since I'm going to be getting some other stucco repaired around the house anyways it's not that big of a deal. I'm seeing outside door slabs aren't very common anyways, and I don't have much skill in hanging anything besides a light interior door. The current doors are 30+ years old, the garage frame has termite rot.
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Feb 11, 2011 05:07
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Depends on why you're replacing. If just the slab is weathered or a style you don't like, then replace the slab If the framing however is rotted or problematic, get a prehung door. If the waterproofing for the rough opening is working well without leaks, then you could potentially leave the stucco as is and install the prehung door with brickmold already attached. Put a liberal amount of sealant behind the molding and push the whole unit into the stucco. If the waterproofing is at all questionable or you want to make sure its done right, break out the stucco with a hammer and install flashing tape or tarpaper or whatever moisture barrier you choose and install the door, then molding, then stucco patch
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Feb 11, 2011 06:26
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GWBBQ posted:From a New England perspective, it's a miracle if your basement doesn't flood. After the big 2007 rainstorm, my house was the only one in the neighborhood with a dry basement other than the next door neighbors who don't have one. You don't have to tell me - born and raised in NH. Almost exactly a year ago, I discovered about 16" of water in my parent's basement, after they had gone to FL for a month. They had had an issue before with the sump pump crapping out, so my dad rigged up a second pump in the pit with the float set higher, just in case the first one failed. He didn't count on losing power in the middle of a rainstorm. By the time power was restored, both pump motors were submerged and tripped the GFCI. It's pretty bad when you see the cat's litter box and some turds floating near the steps and realize that you have to go wading.
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Feb 11, 2011 13:27
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Do air purifiers really work? Are there models with reusable filters, like I could wash it off with water or something?
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Feb 11, 2011 21:15
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kri kri posted:Do air purifiers really work? Are there models with reusable filters, like I could wash it off with water or something? Yeah they work. And yeah they make ones that don't have replaceable filters. I don't know how well they work, but they have them. I have more experience with replaceable filters. The filters can be expensive, but I think they work better. Personally I avoid Ionizing air filters because they create some ozone and ozone is bad for your lungs.
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Feb 13, 2011 03:20
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My garden trowel broke today at a weld. Is it even mildly feasible to try to braze it back together with a propane torch?
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Feb 14, 2011 06:15
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dwoloz posted:My garden trowel broke today at a weld. Is it even mildly feasible to try to braze it back together with a propane torch? Its most likely made out of some cheap pot metal. I dont you'd be able to fix it with ease. Why not just replace it.
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Feb 14, 2011 06:23
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Planning for a big painting project for the interior of a new house. Does anyone have any opinions on paint pads? Seems like they're pretty efficient and save the trouble of taping and edging, but I'm trying to figure out if there's any problem doing it this way.
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Feb 15, 2011 05:02
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Childlike Empress posted:Planning for a big painting project for the interior of a new house. Does anyone have any opinions on paint pads? Seems like they're pretty efficient and save the trouble of taping and edging, but I'm trying to figure out if there's any problem doing it this way. Ever used one? They don't work. edit: Sorry CE, my original response was short and jerky, and I like you, and didn't mean to be jerky. If you have good experience in using them, then by all means go for it. I find that they work great for the first couple strokes, then the paint gets on the edges, making cutting in impossible. In terms of using them to replace a roller for large parts, they will be a huge pain in the rear end, as they don't hold nearly as much paint, so you will be reloading them probably 10x as much as a 9 inch roller. Also they leave much worse lines than rollers, so if you are inattentive you might have a bunch of sanding and repainting in your future. edit 2: edited my edit. artificialj fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Feb 15, 2011 |
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Feb 15, 2011 05:10
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Childlike Empress posted:Planning for a big painting project for the interior of a new house. Does anyone have any opinions on paint pads? Seems like they're pretty efficient and save the trouble of taping and edging, but I'm trying to figure out if there's any problem doing it this way. They work really great for edging (as long as you get the kind with the little wheels on it so you don't bang into the edges). I use them for edging only and paint the rest with rollers or brushes, since the latter cover large areas a lot better with a hell of a lot less work. The trick is to keep them really saturated with paint, and to not get any paint on the little wheels. Pepperoneedy fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Feb 15, 2011 |
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Feb 15, 2011 05:13
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Don't use them for anything but edging, which they are great for as long as you keep the edges of the pads clear of paint. edit beaten twice
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Feb 15, 2011 05:23
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Searching for foam pad painting stuff I found this edger which seems better actually http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1HejU4CsFE
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Feb 15, 2011 05:29
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Grave $avings posted:They work really great for edging (as long as you get the kind with the little wheels on it so you don't bang into the edges). I use them for edging only and paint the rest with rollers or brushes, since the latter cover large areas a lot better with a hell of a lot less work. I use a power roller for any room-sized-or-larger project as they kick rear end, although cleaning is a pain (which is why I don't bother for anything smaller).
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Feb 15, 2011 12:50
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I paint entire rooms with pads, I much prefer them. If you put enough paint on a roller to paint an entire wall you'll end up spattering it everywhere. I have no problems leaving lines or edging in with a plain no-nonsense pad.
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Feb 15, 2011 14:24
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Cakefool posted:I paint entire rooms with pads, I much prefer them. If you put enough paint on a roller to paint an entire wall you'll end up spattering it everywhere. I have no problems leaving lines or edging in with a plain no-nonsense pad. You're doing it wrong. You don't have to put enough paint on the roller to cover a wall, just a small section at a time, then you go back to your paint tray for more. If you're splattering, you've either got too much paint on the roller, you're going too fast, or both. I'm also a firm believer in learning how to cut in trim and ceilings properly. The result is more natural; hard lines draw the eye.
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Feb 15, 2011 14:45
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Thanks for the info everyone. Does seem to me like using rollers for big areas and pads for edging may be a better combo than pads alone.dwoloz posted:Searching for foam pad painting stuff I found this edger which seems better actually http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1HejU4CsFE artificialj posted:edit: Sorry CE, my original response was short and jerky, and I like you, and didn't mean to be jerky.  But I still love you man, thanks for the info.
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Feb 15, 2011 16:19
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Richard Noggin posted:You're doing it wrong. You don't have to put enough paint on the roller to cover a wall, just a small section at a time, then you go back to your paint tray for more. If you're splattering, you've either got too much paint on the roller, you're going too fast, or both. I don't load rollers up that much, I've seen people do so though - they think that they should be able to paint an entire wall without going back for more. Your comment that you do a small area & repeat (totally correct) is exactly the criticism some posters had against pads. edit:I actually came to ask a question: I need to remove a row of tiles in a bathroom to install a tub - what's the best way to avoid cracking the remaining tiles? cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Feb 15, 2011 |
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Feb 15, 2011 23:15
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Cakefool posted:I actually came to ask a question: I need to remove a row of tiles in a bathroom to install a tub - what's the best way to avoid cracking the remaining tiles? What size tile? Probably will be easiest and least damaging to the surrounding tiles to take a hammer and smash the tiles you don't want. Use only as much force as necessary to crack the tile; too much might flex the subfloor and crack grout or surrounding tiles. You can get under the tiles with a prybar once you've smashed a few out
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Feb 15, 2011 23:48
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6" Hammer I can do. I'll start low to calibrate 
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Feb 16, 2011 00:04
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My oven hood lights blew up a few days back, tripped the switch which I turned back on. One bulb broke off and the other just went leaving the bulb intact. Whats the best way of remvoing the metal bulb casing from the hood? I dont have much spae to work with here. My idea was to superglue something to the inside of the casing then use it to unscrew the rest of the bulb. I tried replacing the bulb I could remove and its not turning on, which on the face of things is probabaly the bigger problem. Where could the problem lie here? I can take out the filters from the hood which gives me more access but theres nothing I can really fiddle with there.
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Feb 16, 2011 00:13
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Cakefool posted:I don't load rollers up that much, I've seen people do so though - they think that they should be able to paint an entire wall without going back for more. Your comment that you do a small area & repeat (totally correct) is exactly the criticism some posters had against pads.
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Feb 16, 2011 03:18
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A LOVELY LAD posted:My oven hood lights blew up a few days back, tripped the switch which I turned back on. One bulb broke off and the other just went leaving the bulb intact. Half of a cut potato. Just jam it on there and twist, and it'll usually take the screw base out with it.
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Feb 16, 2011 03:32
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A LOVELY LAD posted:My oven hood lights blew up a few days back, tripped the switch which I turned back on. One bulb broke off and the other just went leaving the bulb intact. Unplug your oven, then get in there with some needlenose pliers. Grab one edge and you should be able to ever so slowly unscrew it. Try replacing that one too and seeing if the bulbs will turn on then.
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Feb 16, 2011 04:04
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Cakefool posted:I don't load rollers up that much, I've seen people do so though - they think that they should be able to paint an entire wall without going back for more. Your comment that you do a small area & repeat (totally correct) is exactly the criticism some posters had against pads. "Small area" is a relative term here. I can easily cover 16 square feet (if not more) with one dip of a roller. I don't know of any pad that can do the same. I think a lot of people go straight for the shortcuts - pads, tape, fancy brushes with rotating heads - rather than just a good quality brush and roller. Like anything else, it takes a bit of practice, but it's really not a difficult job. Maybe I'll do a write up and take some pictures the next time I paint a room.
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Feb 16, 2011 13:32
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thelightguy posted:Half of a cut potato. Just jam it on there and twist, and it'll usually take the screw base out with it.
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Feb 17, 2011 03:12
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GWBBQ posted:This sounds odd if you've never done it, but it's much easier and faster than using pliers. That also only works for sockets you can push the potato past, like on a lamp. It doesn't work for flush mount sockets.
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Feb 17, 2011 08:11
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Richard Noggin posted:"Small area" is a relative term here. I can easily cover 16 square feet (if not more) with one dip of a roller. I don't know of any pad that can do the same. I think a lot of people go straight for the shortcuts - pads, tape, fancy brushes with rotating heads - rather than just a good quality brush and roller. Like anything else, it takes a bit of practice, but it's really not a difficult job. I would expect to cover 9 square feet with a pad so I'd agree on coverage. I'd get smoother coverage with a pad than I would with a roller, but that's just me. Also, I don't consider pads a shortcut, just a different method. I prefer edging with a brush so I suppose I need more practice, luckily I'll be getting that over the coming weeks.
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Feb 17, 2011 13:40
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I'm an idiot and somehow left my fridge-side door cracked open overnight on my Samsung side-by-side. Had it closed all day and the fridge side still isn't cooling, although the fans and compressor still seem to be working. A cursory glance online suggests I should either - simply keep it closed for 24 hours as it sometimes takes a long time to kick back on, but eventually will. OR - empty it of food and leave it unplugged for 8-10 hours. Anyone have any experience with this or suggestions?
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Feb 18, 2011 04:41
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Okay so I bought a P90X pull up bar with out reading that it was only meant for houses with door frames with 5-6 inch deep threshold/frame/whatever. The house I'm living in was built pre-1900's and the doors are about 8 inches deep (7.75 to be exact). My only option was to use this entry way thing. Pretty much the same thing as the picture below only the sides go out for like 2 feet on both sides. So I'm planning on building a really weird looking thing pictured way below from a 2x4 to support my weight. My question is, even with the j-brackets, what are the odds that this thing will work? Does anyone else have any great ideas to work around?  
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Feb 18, 2011 10:17
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Attention Homebrewers! (Couldn't find it's own thread) This morning at 4:30am I was awoken to huge rear end explosion from my kitchen. Apparently some hops got stuck between the rubber stopper and the bubbler in my carboy, pressure built up, and it exploded with the fury of a 1000 suns and rocketed into my ceiling, putting a huge dent in it  Foam starting pouring out all over the place. I hastily put the carboy in a huge bucket to catch the run-off. When it stopped volcanoing, I sanitized the stopper and put it back on. Am I correct in thinking I haven't jeopardized my batch because of the action of the yeast pushing everything OUT of the system? I highly doubt anything bad would have gotten in while the explosion/eruption was happening. BTW this is my first batch and I'm 99% sure it was because I didn't strain the wort well enough. I don't think this will be a problem when bottling though as the excess hops are stuck to the top of the carboy out of the beer.
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Feb 19, 2011 14:11
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alukaiser posted:beer volcano Sorry, I know nothing about home brewing, but here is the thread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2984156
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Feb 19, 2011 16:17
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