|
The B-15NC was 25w, the NF was 30w.
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2011 16:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 22, 2024 18:58 |
|
|
What's our general collective opinion on Ashdown stuff? I use one of their cabs (A cheapy Mag410t deep) and find the sensitivity to be pretty good; I'm running a 500w Warwick through it at 8ohms and it's got good punch. Fairly mid-centric but I play metal with D tuning so it's perfect. It's a heavy bastard though, could have used some casters. I've tried one of their higher-end cabs and been pretty surprised for the price. The use of coloured drivers is a nice touch too.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2011 01:27
|
|
|
Ackbarf posted:What's our general collective opinion on Ashdown stuff? I've got a Mag210t deep - Love it. Used to run my dad's old Bassman through it, right now I just have it hooked up to my Workingman's 10 Combo and it's more than enough to piss off everyone within two floors, and make me very happy in the process.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2011 01:47
|
|
|
Ackbarf posted:What's our general collective opinion on Ashdown stuff? I'm using an ABM rack, the ABM 210 and a MAG compact 115. Want to move up to an ABM 115 though. Seems pretty solid to me, they had a reputation for going bang a few years ago but seem to have moved on and their customer service is apparently very good. Very much a retro 'pillow' sound to me, would sound great for a rock amp, but then I don't play funk or jazz so it might be great for that too.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2011 22:20
|
|
|
Hey rear end connoisseurs, So I'm looking to pick up my first Bass ever and start to teach myself... I have a few rough ideas of the kind of specifics I want on it, specifically I'm looking for a 5 string which has also led me to discover that I should probably be looking for a 35" scale (right?). The thing is, looking for a 35" scale 5-string from a big brand name seems to be about double what I could pay for a 34" 5-string... Alternatively, Rondo has a pretty good looking piece that is the proper scale length and 5 strings, but I haven't heard too many comments on Rondo basses. So I'm wondering, will that Brice get me by, at least for a bit in the beginning? I can't see myself justifying $600+ on a long scale 5-string if I still need to learn to play the drat thing, which is why I'm leaning more towards the Brice... $300 is about the range of what I wanted to pay. Does anyone have experience with the Brice HXB-405, and care to comment on its quality and tone at all? Alternatively, anyone care to recommend a more affordable long scale 5 string? As far as tone from the bass is concerned, I'm looking for a rich, full, dark tone, emphasizing the lows. As far as the difference between J/P style, I've heard conflicting things as to what sort of tonal quality each provides... anyone care to comment on what they traditionally tend to think of as the difference between the two sounds? Sorry if these seem like obvious questions, but I've only just recently started researching the ins and outs of basses and am still trying to pick up the fundamentals. I'm really interested in purchasing a bass pretty soon here, but I know I shouldn't rush too fast into it before I have an idea of what more of the components are doing.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2011 23:26
|
|
|
RoboTiio posted:I'm looking for a 5 string which has also led me to discover that I should probably be looking for a 35" scale (right?). WRONG!!! There are plenty of 34" basses with great B strings, and 35" scale instruments can sometimes sound weird on the G string. Personally, I play nothing but five-strings and hate 35" basses. It's not a requirement at all.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2011 23:39
|
|
|
I don't think anyone else here can add more than what Deuce Slice said. Have you played a string instrument before? Guitar? Try to play as many 5 string basses as possible. I know it's not exactly helpful as far as shopping advice goes, but try out as many instruments at the local stores as you can and see what feels more comfortable/better to you. From what I remember, people in ML and Talkbass like Brice basses as solid budget instruments that can be really good after part upgrades. http://www.talkbass.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/545/title/brice-z6-nt/cat/13 http://www.talkbass.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1049/title/brice-hxb-405/cat/13 Eric Cantonese fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Feb 8, 2011 |
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2011 00:08
|
|
|
Scarf posted:A decent rule of thumb is to shoot for 300-350watt if you plan on playing live. When I'm playing with a single cab, I prefer my 410, but that's usually only at practice when I don't need a lot of volume. Can I pick your brain about this a bit? I'm in a band that's likely going to start playing basements and smallish spaces in the not too distant future. I'm competing for space with a guitarist who will probably be playing out of a 2x12 and driving it with a 70s bassman, and a keyboard player with a Juno 106 running into a Fender BXR-100. I've been considering grabbing one of those b200 Acoustic heads and finding a good cabinet (a 2x12 with a horn or a 4x10) to match it. Should I be looking for something with a higher wattage? Every other amp I've owned has been a busted up combo I've fixed up and so this head-and-cab world is a new one for me.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2011 15:31
|
|
|
Colin Ex Machina posted:Can I pick your brain about this a bit? I think you'd be alright, unless your drummer is just incredibly heavy-handed. And really, as long as EVERYONE (you included) is conscious about volume levels and no one is competing to be heard, you should be fine. I personally don't really have much experience with Acoustic amps, so it's kind of hard to tell. Some companies are pretty conservative with their ratings, and some are pretty liberal. But remember... That 200w rating on the Acoustic head is at 4ohms. So if you want all 200w, you need a 4ohm cabinet, or 2 8ohm cabinets.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2011 16:29
|
|
|
Or steal the Bassman and make your guitarist get one of those 5 watt Voxs or something.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2011 16:37
|
|
|
It's easy to turn our drummer down because he is an MPC. If I still lived in Michigan I'd get a bassman because you can snag them for a humane amount of money. Not so much in DC. Thanks for your advice.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2011 17:36
|
|
|
Genz Benz Streamliner 900 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-27szg61bw Sounds creeeeeeeeeamy And  @ 3:53
Scarf fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Feb 8, 2011 |
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2011 17:39
|
|
|
TyChan posted:
Yeah, I've played a few instruments. I've noodled around on guitar for a few years, nothing crazy proficient but I know my way around the neck by now... I started playing keyboard this year (teaching myself electronic music production), so I've started to get a better sense of different scales and keys... When I play guitar I usually find myself on the low strings and doing mostly single notes instead of chords, which is when I find myself wishing for a bass to play. Could any of you elaborate on the tonal difference of P/J basses? I mean, obviously I know I should handle a few basses to find something that feels comfortable, but that doesn't help me hone in and search for a specific tone. If I did end up going with the Brice, how much money would I be looking at to hire a professional to get it all strung and properly set up?
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2011 02:10
|
|
|
Here's a nice video of the tonal differences between J's and P's https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6Cd98DH__U Ignore the stuff about the 50's Precision.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2011 05:17
|
|
|
DEUCE SLUICE posted:Here's a nice video of the tonal differences between J's and P's Never heard such a bright tone on the early Precision type. I love those demo vids btw. Anyone know of the bass equivalent to this guy: http://www.youtube.com/user/GregsGuitars ?
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2011 09:06
|
|
|
Underflow posted:Never heard such a bright tone on the early Precision type. I love those demo vids btw. Anyone know of the bass equivalent to this guy: http://www.youtube.com/user/GregsGuitars ? The guy in the video that you just quoted does pretty much the exact same thing as this Greg dude. Check his other videos. e: I guess the bass guy talks more and reviews the basses more, but it's essentially the same thing.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2011 10:58
|
|
|
Geisladisk posted:The guy in the video that you just quoted does pretty much the exact same thing as this Greg dude. Check his other videos. Yes, I realised that too late. I like the way the other guy just showcases the instruments a bit more, though.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2011 11:04
|
|
|
RoboTiio posted:If I did end up going with the Brice, how much money would I be looking at to hire a professional to get it all strung and properly set up? I'd wager you have to pay around 45 - 60 €/$. I got my frets leveled, intonation set up and the bow of the neck fixed for only 45 euros. The guy is a sympathetic old man who doesn't seem to be aware of the modern capitalistic times so I don't know if his services are specially low priced.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2011 14:40
|
|
|
Should I buy this: http://kansascity.craigslist.org/msg/2204666650.html Spector Euro LX bass w/ Spector hardcase - $950
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2011 16:19
|
|
|
Ever wanted a bass that sounds like a classical guitar? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSUW4bcUbOg
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2011 17:13
|
|
|
gotly posted:Should I buy this: http://kansascity.craigslist.org/msg/2204666650.html Cool bass. Always dug the way Spectors feel. But it really depends if that is your style/sound and if it feels great to you. I wouldn't let the 1 of 6 bubinga tops entice your buying ability any more than it should.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2011 17:33
|
|
|
DEUCE SLUICE posted:Here's a nice video of the tonal differences between J's and P's That's the video that helped make my mind up about getting a CV Jazz over a VM Jaguar. Now I'm just hoping someday I manage to pay it off.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2011 20:13
|
|
|
Underflow posted:Never heard such a bright tone on the early Precision type. I think putting roundwounds on one is kind of out of character.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2011 23:23
|
|
|
DEUCE SLUICE posted:I think putting roundwounds on one is kind of out of character. Doesn't Michael Shuman of Queens of the Stone Age uses roundwounds on his?
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2011 23:43
|
|
|
DEUCE SLUICE posted:I think putting roundwounds on one is kind of out of character. That must be it. Sounds pretty awful to me.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2011 00:26
|
|
|
Scarf posted:Ever wanted a bass that sounds like a classical guitar? That bass belongs to a mutual friend; he's been badgering me about buying it for a while, but I haven't had the cash.  I haven't played it, but going off the video, it seems like a really cool instrument.The tone reminds me of Steve Swallow's basses. It's a pity that Ed didn't demo it with a pick.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2011 09:18
|
|
|
I've playing more and more bass lately and have decided that upgrading from my MIM j-bass is finally worthwhile. I've got my eye on a Jetglo Rickenbacker 4001. I played a 4003 at a local music store and loved it. I was wondering, do the 4001s feel the same as the 4003s? Is the change in number mostly an era-of-release thing? Anything specific I need to look for when buying a 70s Rick? E: Also, I like fairly bright bass tone, and I've read that the 4001s are designed for use with flatwounds which are generally "dead" sounding compared to rounds. Confirm/deny? himajinga fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Feb 10, 2011 |
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2011 22:53
|
|
|
himajinga posted:I've playing more and more bass lately and have decided that upgrading from my MIM j-bass is finally worthwhile. I've got my eye on a Jetglo Rickenbacker 4001. I played a 4003 at a local music store and loved it. I was wondering, do the 4001s feel the same as the 4003s? Is the change in number mostly an era-of-release thing? Anything specific I need to look for when buying a 70s Rick? From what I've experienced, the 4003 feels slightly chunkier and sounds a little hotter and brighter than my '77 4001. Things to watch out for with a pre-'82/'84 4001: 1. Trussrods: take off the cover and make sure the block securing the 2 trussrods is intact. Many people didn't know that the Rickenbacker system needs you to manually force the neck into the right position before 'locking' it with the rods. Results: broken trussrod anchor and/or detached/broken fretboard. 2. Bridge: heavy strings may have pulled the bridge's rear up from the body. There shouldn't be more than a few millimeters lift. It's easy to fix with a few extra screws, but the resale value drops considerably. 3. Neck: make sure it's flat; i.e. not S-shaped/warped. A little back- or underbow shouldn't be a problem, although the Rickenbacker manuals recommend a perfectly straight profile. 4. Go to rickenbacker.com and check the forum for clues on how to spot fakes. Replacement trussrod covers used to be for sale, many of which found their way on to japanese and korean copies. Good place to start is the jackplate: there should be 2 capital letters over the Rick-O-Sound output and 4 digits under the regular output. Those allow you to check the month and year of manufacture on the Rickenbacker site as well. himajinga posted:E: Also, I like fairly bright bass tone, and I've read that the 4001s are designed for use with flatwounds which are generally "dead" sounding compared to rounds. Confirm/deny? You could try 'groundwounds', which are polished roundwounds - the side closest to the string's core still has the roundwound profile. I use tapewounds myself, but I've seen lots of people use roundwounds on their 4001; perhaps not the heaviest gauges, though.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2011 23:47
|
|
|
himajinga posted:E: Also, I like fairly bright bass tone, and I've read that the 4001s are designed for use with flatwounds which are generally "dead" sounding compared to rounds. Confirm/deny? I believe this is something of an myth regarding old Rickenbacker basses. I don't think it has anything to do with how the strings are wound but rather the string tension. The story goes that the original Rickenbacker strings they came with from the factory were quite low tension. When higher tension round-wound strings started to become popular it was found that the 4001s neck often wasn't up to the task of accommodating the increased tension. This lead to the company voiding the warranty of anyone who put non Rickenbacker strings on their bass. I tend to believe a slightly different story. Changing to a differently tensioned set of strings is usually going to require a neck adjustment to compensate. The somewhat complicated truss rod system of the 4001 probably resulted in a lot of people breaking their shiny new bass. The 3rd party string clause was probably thought up to cut down on warranty claims due to this. I have also read that the fret wire used in the older 4001s is more quickly worn down by using roundwound strings but I would take that one with a grain of salt. This might conceivably have been true very early on but I can't imagine a design fault like that persisting very long. Regardless of what is true, as long as you use lighter gauge/lower tension strings, I suspect you will be just fine.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2011 00:04
|
|
|
Some more 4001/4003 differences: Bass-cut capacitor on the bridge pickup of 4001 and some 4003s, recent ones have a push-pull to select between the two modes. Some 4003s have a thicker neck. Early 4001s have the neck pickup closer to the neck. Early 4003s have the truss rod adjustments on the body side. Doesn't really affect anything, but that's why you'll see some 4003s have a split pickguard. There are also "S" versions of each model, that have dot inlays instead of triangles, no binding on the body, no Ric-O-Sound, and some have a set neck instead of neck-through.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2011 01:53
|
|
|
Wow, that's a lot of great info, thanks guys!
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2011 02:59
|
|
|
Man. I played guitar for a number of months before deciding I liked the more tactile experience of bass (hard to explain, I'm sure some understand). But holy poo poo; I got in on some group guitar lessons because it was cheap as balls and fit my schedule. My bass playing has pulled me astoundingly far along on bass. Like, WAY far. And I hardly pick up a guitar at all. (hence it being so surprising). Chord changes in rhythm? Easy. Finger style? Doable. Learning new chords super fast? Simple. Most importantly: Understands the music theory behind all this poo poo? Yep. Bass is still what I really, really enjoy - but hot drat if I'm not way more capable with guitar than I thought I was.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2011 03:38
|
|
|
Anyone have any experience with the Souce Audio Multiwave Distortion? I really like the multiband distortion sounds where you can play harmonics and chords and have them come through cleanly, and the envelope filtery stuff sounds fun too, it seems like you can do a hell of a lot with it (even more if you have an expression pedal). I want to try one out but I think they're pretty scarce here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKEWgOc_IBM That's the overview but the jam videos are way more fun http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IWPOpv6LDM&feature=related
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2011 05:37
|
|
|
Years ago, my friend's dad who worked as a garbage man found an old Ampeg amp sitting at the side of the road as trash. He picked it up and brought it home to my friend who had no use for it. They called me and asked if I'd like to "loan" it and just keep it around for a while to play with it. I kept it around for about 8 years, retubed it, cleaned it up, got it working again.. it sounded glorious. Then, I decided to move out of state and didn't have space for it anymore so I finally gave it back to my friend who shoved it into the back of his storage unit where it has sat ever since... Last month, I emailed him asking if he still had it. I said if he did, I'd like to buy it off of him the next time I'm back home in Wisconsin. He said he still has it sitting around and that if I want it, it's mine (for free). I. am. psyched. I apologize for the clutter and other stuff in the photo but, as you can see, it's a lovely old early 60s fliptop Portaflex. I believe it was 2x18 but it may be 2x15. The idea of being able to have that amp around and play through it again is just spine-tingling to me. I really hope this works out.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2011 07:35
|
|
|
Seems there's absolutely nobody selling their American Fender Jazz Bass. I've been looking for 2+ months in a major metropolitan area and nothing... Craigslist, pawn shops, even Guitar Center. May have to break down and grab a highway one Jazz new...
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2011 08:06
|
|
|
Catastrophe posted:it's mine (for free). You mother fucker.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2011 19:10
|
|
|
Catastrophe posted: The dirty things I would do with that amp.........of course I'd probably gently caress it up like I did with my SVT350H, so I wouldn't trust myself to handle such a beauty. I need to cut back on the gain sometimes......... In a non-amp related note I'm thinking about replacing the pickups and bring on my Schecter Stilleto Studio 5. I love the bass, it plays just like I want it to, but the tone is lacking and I suspect it's a combination of the pickups and the bridge. The sound I'm going for is an Alex Webster (Cannibal Corpse) type sound, which I've heard described as sounding like a chainsaw, which is not too far off. What I have now pickup-wise are EMG-HZ's, which from my understanding are high-impedance pickups. Does this mean it is cutting off a lot of the tone before it even reaches the active preamp? What I have now bridge-wise is just the stock Schecter bridge, and I have no idea what to look for in a bridge. I've never been too familiar with the inner workings of the instrument but I'm determined to learn everything there is to know.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2011 20:02
|
|
|
I'm going to find out where you live... Why doesn't poo poo like that ever happen to me? :\
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2011 02:16
|
|
|
gotly posted:Should I buy this: http://kansascity.craigslist.org/msg/2204666650.html Ended up buying this yesterday. This was way better than any of the Fenders I had tried over the last month. This is replacing my Ibanez SR 500 so I went from a $500 > $1800 bass. I'm pretty much blown away. The slap tone on this is incredible and I can dial in anything I want. I can get the thinnest Jazz/growly Geddy tone, Deep P-Bass stuff (War Pigs), awesome harsh rock tones or some smooth jazz. This is my dream bass! Apparently this is one of 6 models made with a bubinga top. I have no way to verify that but I don't see bubinga as an option any more. Either way, it looks great I think. One great mod that was done (that I was going to do anyway) is the volume knobs were replaced with a master volume and blend knob. I'm much more used to this configuration so I like it a lot better than the stock volume/volume setup. I'm still messing with the bass/treble tone knobs but so far I like it a lot. Some pics!   
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2011 17:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 22, 2024 18:58 |
|
|
How do I make the pinky finger on my fretting hand get swole as gently caress so I can actually use it when I'm playing rather than it just curling up when I use my ring finger. Seriously, all my other fingers behave themselves but my pinky just flails around wildly and it's starting to get annoying, are there any special excercises I can do or something also I broke my flats cherry the other day and stuck some Rotosound 77s on my Ibanez SRX430, these things sound gorgeous (the highs and mids actually have a bit of depth to them instead of sounding tinny! Praise Allah)
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2011 22:30
|
|
