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Guinness posted:Now I need to get out and drive one and see how it feels. Just don't go thinking it's a miata 
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Feb 11, 2011 05:10
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I was previously looking at Foresters/Outback wagons, but am seeing some Tribecas for sale as well. Any thoughts on the Tribeca as far as a family vehicle? Same great AWD and everything?
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Feb 11, 2011 19:03
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Uziel posted:I was previously looking at Foresters/Outback wagons, but am seeing some Tribecas for sale as well. Any thoughts on the Tribeca as far as a family vehicle? Same great AWD and everything? A common failure on the Tribeca is a suspension rattle; you can fix that by replacing the swaybar bushings with new (or aftermarket, if available) ones. There's also hatch rattle on the current generation. For what it's worth, I know that the local Subaru dealerships are doing 0% financing on them because the car just does not sell. You should be able to make a deal on one.
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Feb 11, 2011 19:13
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I've always read that the Tribeca is a decent car in its own right, but it just does NOT fit the "Subaru Image" at all (which is why they don't sell well). If people wanted that type of car/SUV, they're more likely to find themselves in a Toyota, Honda, or Ford dealership.
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Feb 11, 2011 19:47
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picked up some new struts last night:.JPG) Click here for the full 1024x768 image. they are not ordinary sti struts: .JPG) Click here for the full 1024x768 image. A shop out here called Feal Suspension takes the stock inverted sti struts apart, cleans them, polishes out any scoring on the inserts, and puts in a zerk fitting to re-grease the internal bushings. Oh, and also they will custom re-valve the dampers. These are setup for my Racecomp Engineering black springs, so they got a little bit stiffer and have a little more low speed compression. The curves are pretty similar to the ohlins fixed perch strut so I'm thinking they're going to work pretty well.
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Feb 11, 2011 20:11
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I'm at ~75k miles on my 05 WRX sedan. Hoping to make it a bit more aggressive looking. I'm not necessarily looking for better performance than stock, I just don't want it to get worse. Can I just put new springs on or do I also have to do struts and or top hats? Any idea how long the stocks should last? I'm hoping to do this cheaply.
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Feb 11, 2011 20:28
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at 75k your struts are toast, and a lower and stiffer spring is not a good idea on the stock wrx struts even when they're new. You want this: Tokico D specs RCE black or yellow springs whiteline com-c offset front strut tops stock rear tops are fine will cost about 1100. You won't regret the purchase.
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Feb 11, 2011 20:31
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Yeah, having a lowering spring on my WRX, even at the same spring rates as stock, has most likely reduced my stock struts' lifespan fairly significantly. Every time I go over a speedbump or expansion joint at a moderate speed I can practically feel the struts going "oh poo poo, not this again." It's massively underdamped. Thanks for mentioning Feal again; I had mentioned it to the shop I patronize and they seemed interested but I forgot the name of the company at that exact moment. There any benefit to the Group-N strut tops, or can I spend that several hundred dollars somewhere else? They sure feel nice in the hand and have nice construction. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Feb 11, 2011 |
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Feb 11, 2011 20:33
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Yeah, having a lowering spring on my WRX, even at the same spring rates as stock, has most likely reduced my stock struts' lifespan fairly significantly. In the rear yes I like the group n tops but it is an extra $220. In the front I like the whiteline tops- they're stiffer and offset to add camber and caster.
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Feb 11, 2011 20:36
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 Should I feel guilty for completely gutting the interior of my car in preparation for cage installation? I feel bad doing this to a rather pristine car; but, this is why I bought it... Roof panel with the moonroof is going to be removed and a flat one from an impreza L will be installed.
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Feb 11, 2011 21:05
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Thanks for the input. I'll make sure and post before and after pictures. Now I just need the government to send me my tax refund.
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Feb 11, 2011 21:14
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c355n4 posted:
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Feb 11, 2011 21:17
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My wife's 2010 Scion XB was stolen. We're looking at the new (2010/2011) Outback as a replacement. Anyone have one? Any thoughts on it? Wasn't there a goon that works at a Northwest Subaru dealership around at some point? Are you still out there? Wanna sell me a car? c355n4 posted:
No, but you should feel guilty that you aren't posting pictures of whatever amazing process you're undertaking.
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Feb 11, 2011 21:27
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allonblack posted:My wife's 2010 Scion XB was stolen. We're looking at the new (2010/2011) Outback as a replacement. Anyone have one? Any thoughts on it? 2011 Outback 3.6r Limited here. I love mine so far, and haven't run into any of the problems that the 2010 crowd mentioned ("steering wheel shake"). Is there any info in particular that you're looking for? When test driving I also looked at (ordered by preference): Nissan Juke Acura RDX Mazda CX-7 Honda CR-V Nissan Murano Toyota RAV-4 My priorities where: 1) Creature features/interior 2) power & handling 3) price around/under $34k before tax. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Feb 11, 2011 |
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Feb 11, 2011 22:53
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Its so close, my up-pipe just arrived from AQM, and Scarlet goes in on Tuesday!
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Feb 11, 2011 23:16
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toplitzin posted:Its so close, my up-pipe just arrived from AQM, and Scarlet goes in on Tuesday! Reminded me to ask, about to get a protune from Cobb and a downpipe to go along with my already installed SPT catback. (5-Door STI) Can anyone recommend any other modifications I should install powertrain wise before getting the protune? Electronic boost controller, 255 fuel pump? And while I'm at it will a strut bar help all that much on a '11 STI? I'm assuming they do but I don't want to install it and find out it just creates more understeer with the stock suspension.
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Feb 12, 2011 00:57
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you could do an intake. the stock boost controller works just fine. the stock fuel pump on the 08+ flows more fuel and it's more of a pain in the rear end to put in a walbro, so I'd leave that alone for now. The avo pump sort of just clips in but costs like $300. strut bars don't do a whole lot. I do like the whiteline lower h-brace thing on the new cars, but a 22mm rear swaybar is going to be the most effective suspension mod you can do. More front camber also helps.
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Feb 12, 2011 01:13
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Good to know! Will look into a new rear swaybar, h-brace, and an aggressive alignment. Will probably skip the intake, but will a drop in panel filter show worthwhile gains?
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Feb 12, 2011 01:29
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jamal posted:you could do an intake. the stock boost controller works just fine. the stock fuel pump on the 08+ flows more fuel and it's more of a pain in the rear end to put in a walbro, so I'd leave that alone for now. The avo pump sort of just clips in but costs like $300. Whats the recommended suspension mods/starting point for a wagon?
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Feb 12, 2011 01:30
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Okay; one of my local body shops has an '07 Impreza for sale. It's about a thousand below Blue Book private party value. It's a pretty standard model - automatic, no fog lights, but it has a small factory wing. Then I saw the sign in the window saying it had 71,000 miles on it... and a salvage title. The sign said the car had rear end damage. The repair looks pretty good - it's all straight and the paint matches well. I googled the VIN and found the original auction, confirming the rear end damage. My question is, why would they issue a salvage title on a four-year-old car when the damage doesn't really seem that bad?
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Feb 12, 2011 01:49
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My guess would be something about the accident damage cost more or very close to the value of the car to fix, so the insurance company totaled it out. The body shop's fix is probably the cheapest job they could do to still have it look good in photos. I wouldn't be surprised if the inside of the trunk has some funky folds/creases.
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Feb 12, 2011 01:54
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toplitzin posted:Whats the recommended suspension mods/starting point for a wagon? well you can go the strut/spring direction and do it in steps to not spend a bunch of money at the same time. Tokico d-specs or koni inserts are the best strut options available and you'll want to do either those or swaybars first. RCE makes really good wagon specific springs, but they are way too stiff for your stock struts. You could start with the struts, and then gradually add parts from there. The other option would be to spend a little more all at once and go with the Suspension Techniques coilovers, which are about a grand, only have spring preload adjustment, and use KW variant 1 internals in a less expensive housing. I have all this stuff (although a few things still need to be installed): STi struts with feal re-valved inserts RCE black springs Whiteline offset top mounts Whiteline anti-lift kit Whiteline roll center adjuster Whiteline steering rack bushings Whiteline 22mm front and rear adjustable swaybars Kartboy endlinks Kartboy subframe lock bolts Turn in Concepts trailing arm and lateral link bushings alignment is -2.5f / 1.1r camber with 0 toe, tires are 225/45-17 Hankook V12 evo. It turns pretty good and I think I'm done with suspension mods for awhile. Also I just had my car washed and it looks pretty good:  Click here for the full 1024x575 image. jamal fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Feb 12, 2011 |
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Feb 12, 2011 02:29
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infrared35 posted:Okay; one of my local body shops has an '07 Impreza for sale. It's about a thousand below Blue Book private party value. It's a pretty standard model - automatic, no fog lights, but it has a small factory wing. Then I saw the sign in the window saying it had 71,000 miles on it... and a salvage title. The sign said the car had rear end damage. The repair looks pretty good - it's all straight and the paint matches well. Your trunk will probably leak. The unibody may not be straight. It may rust in bizarre places as a result of the quarter panel repair. You do not have the full set of information about the original accident and may not have enough information about what was replaced in order to make an accurate diagnosis of what you need to inspect prior to purchase. Also I'd suspect most of the price of rebuilding that car was repairing the rear quarter panels; they're huge pieces of metal which are expensive to repaint and if any of the 'frame' around there was torqued you're looking at cutting and welding as opposed to pop rivets. I seem to remember on the sedans there's a significant amount of work involved in setting the C-pillar into the rear quarter as well. Walk away.
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Feb 12, 2011 03:13
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Based on my experience with a rebuilt title on my WRX I'll never accept another one again regardless of who did the rebuild or how much information you have about the circumstances. I bought mine for $10,000 off the average resale price at the time and may drat near come close to not saving any money once all is done. Certainly not for $1,000. Roger that. I wasn't wondering whether it was a good buy so much as I was wondering what the heck could be so badly damaged on a $12000 car that the insurance company would total it, when to my layman's eye the damage appears all cosmetic and doesn't even seem to reach the wheels.
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Feb 12, 2011 03:37
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infrared35 posted:Roger that. I wasn't wondering whether it was a good buy so much as I was wondering what the heck could be so badly damaged on a $12000 car that the insurance company would total it, when to my layman's eye the damage appears all cosmetic and doesn't even seem to reach the wheels. For me, the previous owner of the car had an offset front impact collision (I'm guessing into a curb or Jersey barrier). It didn't affect anything mechanically (the original rad support is still present on the car) but the repair estimates on the car's record are $10218 and $14377 for the left and right sides of the car, respectively. That was enough to total out an MY2006 in 2008. Modern cars are really built to destroy themselves to save your life. I'd say the only time when you'd see a salvage/rebuilt title that's worth it is when you're absolutely sure the car was stolen; cars here that were stolen and recovered are marked "salvage" immediately if any damage is sustained (including the locks, windows or lock cylinders). Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Feb 12, 2011 |
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Feb 12, 2011 04:15
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CrazyLittle posted:2011 Outback 3.6r Limited here. I love mine so far, and haven't run into any of the problems that the 2010 crowd mentioned ("steering wheel shake"). Is there any info in particular that you're looking for? When test driving I also looked at (ordered by preference): Well we own a Doggy Daycare here in Portland and we're looking for something comfortable for her that we can fit a couple of kennels in. We've looked at all of these plus a few others (Highlander, MDX, Pilot, etc...) and I think we're pretty set on the Outback. What's the deal with the 2010's? I was thinking of trying to pick one up that's a year old, but if there's issues with them we'll just go straight to new.
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Feb 12, 2011 04:37
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allonblack posted:My wife's 2010 Scion XB was stolen. We're looking at the new (2010/2011) Outback as a replacement. Anyone have one? Any thoughts on it? Sorry to hear about the stolen car. I'll take pics of the process. Its nothing special though. :x
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Feb 12, 2011 05:38
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allonblack posted:Well we own a Doggy Daycare here in Portland and we're looking for something comfortable for her that we can fit a couple of kennels in. We've looked at all of these plus a few others (Highlander, MDX, Pilot, etc...) and I think we're pretty set on the Outback. Of all the ones I listed the Outback will have most interior space - especially when you lower the seats. The RAV4 might have more space, but the seats are really heavy. My wife (5'0" 95lb) was completely against the RAV4 because of that factor, among others. allonblack posted:What's the deal with the 2010's? I was thinking of trying to pick one up that's a year old, but if there's issues with them we'll just go straight to new. Some of them develop a "shake" in the steering column. Something like a harmonic resonance with the road and tires/suspension/steering causes the whole steering wheel to vibrate with a moderate amount of force. It's not going to run you off the road, but it's irritating enough to some people that there are several TSB's out to install dampeners, put new tires on, and try to baffle that vibration as much as possible. Some owners who've reported the problem say it's noticeable when test driving even a brand new car if the car has it. Some others say that it developed on their car over time. Mine doesn't have this problem (or I'm oblivious to what these people are feeling). This is the best example I can find about the problem: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVnY52V2OYw If you're looking at used 2010s, be sure to drive it, and get it up on the freeway so you can get it cruising. The "shake" manifests itself when you drive a steady speed and let the resonant frequency magnify itself.
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Feb 12, 2011 06:20
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Something like that is usually because of a bad cv joint or something out of balance like a tire or propshaft
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Feb 12, 2011 06:28
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infrared35 posted:Roger that. I wasn't wondering whether it was a good buy so much as I was wondering what the heck could be so badly damaged on a $12000 car that the insurance company would total it, when to my layman's eye the damage appears all cosmetic and doesn't even seem to reach the wheels. The C-pillar near the start of the trunk looks tweaked. I could never trust a car with that kind of damage.
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Feb 12, 2011 06:44
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jamal posted:Something like that is usually because of a bad cv joint or something out of balance like a tire or propshaft Even on a new car?
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Feb 12, 2011 07:11
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CrazyLittle posted:Even on a new car?
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Feb 12, 2011 11:16
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Stupid wheel question ahoy. I want to replace my curbed and bent stock 17" Enkei wheels. I already have a set of brand new (less than 500 miles) Goodyear Eagle GT 225/45ZR17 so whatever I get needs to be able to accommodate my current tires. Tire Rack says that the rim width range of my tire is 7-8.5" Therefore, I should be able to buy any rim in the 17x7-17x8.5 range and still be good, right? Secondly, I shouldn't have an rubbing/fitting problems with my stock suspension Saabaru if I follow this chart from NASIOC, right? Width .... Offset 6.5" ....... +53 to +55 7.0" ....... +50 to +53 7.5" ....... +47 to +50 8.0" ....... +43 to +47
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Feb 12, 2011 13:38
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on the shimmy issue, it's something like less than 1% of all cars are afflicted with it. Just test drive it, get up to 65-70mph and it is supposedly unmistakable as to whether the car shimmies or not.
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Feb 12, 2011 15:19
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JayKay posted:Tire Rack says that the rim width range of my tire is 7-8.5" Therefore, I should be able to buy any rim in the 17x7-17x8.5 range and still be good, right? quote:Secondly, I shouldn't have an rubbing/fitting problems with my stock suspension Saabaru if I follow this chart from NASIOC, right? Also while I was looking for that article, I found this one featuring a Saab 9-2X Linear and a small discussion on sway bars.
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Feb 12, 2011 18:48
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 Picked up a set of 6 spokes from a guy who lives two minutes away and wrecked the front of his GC RS. I can throw 225's on these things right? These rims will sport my summer tires. My wrx alloys will sport a set of general grabbers as summer dirt bombing tires. (I can't clear 15's with my stock brakes, otherwise I'd have gravel tires). And my other wrx alloys will continue to sport my winter tires.  Dug out the RS and pulled it out of it's snow bank. Had to move around our plow jeep and dads race mustang with my jeep.  All tucked in ready to start the swap. Full FXT drive train (4.44 with LSD rear) into my RS.
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Feb 13, 2011 01:56
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RS 5/6 spokes are 16x7. Yea, 225s will fit.
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Feb 13, 2011 02:02
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'd say the only time when you'd see a salvage/rebuilt title that's worth it is when you're absolutely sure the car was stolen; cars here that were stolen and recovered are marked "salvage" immediately if any damage is sustained (including the locks, windows or lock cylinders). I bought my wrx with a salvaged title from a front end collision. It's been over a year without a single problem. Maybe I'm just lucky.
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Feb 13, 2011 03:05
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So I'm looking at buying a 2011 Legacy in a couple months. After test driving one today I couldn't find much fault with it. Is there anything I should be aware before purchase? I've read through the LegacyGT Forums and didn't see any big issues, just the shimmy thing that seems fairly rare. I would be buying a Premium with CVT and the All Weather Package. Thinking about getting the tweeter and subwoofer package. Does anyone know if that is a dealer installed option or a factory installed option? What are people paying for these, according to Edmunds it seems like I could get one for around $23k, but the Subaru dealer I spoke with today seemed really desperate for a sale and said that "his boss" was making big deals like dropping $5k off a Forester.
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Feb 13, 2011 19:45
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| # ? May 14, 2024 12:37 |
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*Commando_Elite* posted:What are people paying for these, according to Edmunds it seems like I could get one for around $23k, but the Subaru dealer I spoke with today seemed really desperate for a sale and said that "his boss" was making big deals like dropping $5k off a Forester. *marks up Forester $6k*  "Ya, we're taking $5k off the price - interested?"
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Feb 13, 2011 19:51
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