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!amicable posted:Canadagoons: do you guys usually order from miniwargaming.com or is there a better online store? http://www.gc-minis.com/ Its slow but cheap
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Feb 11, 2011 20:03
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Indolent Bastard posted:Don't waste your time, just toss them and buy new. But you don't need $15 testors brand, any will do. Stop at the your local hardware store and take a look. I've used a lot of plastic clippers in my time, and these are by far the best ones, and have lasted the longest. All the ones from hardware stores are crap. They really don't make tools like they used to. There's no point in loving up a $50 model kit because you skimped and bought a $5 pair of clippers.
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Feb 11, 2011 20:10
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Phyresis posted:I've used a lot of plastic clippers in my time, and these are by far the best ones, and have lasted the longest. All the ones from hardware stores are crap. They really don't make tools like they used to. There's no point in loving up a $50 model kit because you skimped and bought a $5 pair of clippers. In my experience good clippers are found at the hardware store and hobby shops carry crap but obviously your experience has differed. The long and the short of it is, bent clippers are not easily fixed, get new ones, from wherever you buy clippers.
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Feb 11, 2011 20:16
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A reason my wife owns: (While indulging my nerdiness and looking at pictures of a valkyrie) Her: How did they get those really smooth scorch marks? Me: Oh, those? They used an airbrush. Her: Do you have one of those? Me: Nope. Her: Okay, cool. I'll get you one after the deployment. You can do better stuff than that. Hells yes. Having an enabling spouse rules.
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Feb 11, 2011 23:56
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Hell Diver posted:A reason my wife owns: 
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Feb 12, 2011 00:02
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Captain Invictus posted:Gonna totally have you do some commissions using that thing if you're still taking them. Most likely, I'll just have to get up to speed using it. I used to have a cheap one before I joined the Army, so I never really got much mileage out of it. But they seems supremely useful for doing scorching, weathering, and vehicles.
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Feb 12, 2011 00:09
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Hell Diver posted:Her: Okay, cool. I'll get you one after the deployment. You can do better stuff than that. Make sure you tell her to get superb results, you need a compressor and/or tank with a variable output (5-25 PSI) and a good brush (Paasche Talon). Just sneak it into the conversation. Sliiiide it in there. Yeah. That's good. 
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Feb 12, 2011 02:13
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ineptmule posted:Welp, despite the hundreds of tonnes of free sand just 15 minutes from my house, the weather and the junkies resident at the beach drove me into Hobbycraft where I bought my first ever supply of basing material! Like Fix said, seal the sand down with more PVA. PVA with a bit of water on the base, then apply your sand. Let it dry, then mix up 50-50 water-PVA and gently apply that all over the top of your sand. Leave that to dry for a couple of hours and your base will be rock steady and ready for priming.
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Feb 12, 2011 04:12
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Sole.Sushi posted:Make sure you tell her to get superb results, you need a compressor and/or tank with a variable output (5-25 PSI) and a good brush (Paasche Talon). Just sneak it into the conversation. Sliiiide it in there. Yeah. That's good. Then you can ejaculate. Like 'Woo!'
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Feb 12, 2011 04:13
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Then you can ejaculate. What's the gently caress is wrong with you, you sicko? 
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Feb 12, 2011 04:48
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Who wants to paint white? http://privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?51102-Tutorial-So-you-wanna-paint-White
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Feb 12, 2011 06:33
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I always forget that Menoth White has super awesome coverage.
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Feb 12, 2011 06:38
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Gentlemen. The experiment is complete and I am prepared to call it a limited success Click here for the full 800x532 image. Now to strip my models down, prime them with Krylon this time and actually paint them properly.
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Feb 12, 2011 07:28
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So people have asked me about my base snow before, and I've talked about doing a picture tutorial. But I've managed to keep forgetting until now. I was finishing up some Cygnar, so I figured I'd slap together a tutorial while I was making snow anyway. Step 1:  Get you some PVA glue and squirt dat poo poo out. The more snow you want, the more glue you'll need, obv. Step 2:  Throw some snow flock down on that PVA. Shoot for about an equal volume of each. After you do that, put a few drops of water. Here I put 4 drops- you can see one above and below the flock. (Water and snow flock form into weird spheres when they mix.) Step 3:  Mix that poo poo like a mofo. When you're done, it should be roughly the consistency of toothpaste, or maybe a little looser. If it's too thick, add a drop or two of glue. You shouldn't need more water unless you add a bunch more glue. Step 4:  Start slapping your snow mix wherever your heart desires. It's easier to control and place if it's that 'slightly looser than toothpaste' consistency. Step 5:  Sprinkle more flock on top of the wet paste. This step is optional, but I like it so there.  Let it sit for a few seconds, then tap the base to remove excess flock.Step 6:  You're done, so bask in your badass snow. Obviously I'm no authority on this stuff, but it's what works for me. I suggest playing with different consistencies, etc. Some people like to paint white down where the snow will be, but I've never found that necessary. Doing multiple layers is possible if you want heavier snow and have the patience. (I don't.) Anyway hope maybe someone finds this useful.
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Feb 12, 2011 07:52
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Thanks, bud. I was just about to start doing some snow stuff, so I appreciate the step 2 mix-flock-with-glue tip.
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Feb 12, 2011 07:57
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^^^I did 51 bases doing my snow like that. poo poo looks good.
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Feb 12, 2011 08:49
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Would it help to mix a little white paint in with the mix d'ya reckon? I've always gone down the baking powder route without much success so might give your snow flock recipe a go 
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Feb 12, 2011 10:55
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I wish I knew this when my idea for my tau was blue and snow basing. I think just using the snow alone is what made me switch to red and traditional basing. Good to know for the Future. Excellent tutorial, Fyrbrand. Also, your new avatar is making me dizzy.  VVV Now that I think about it, this happened to a friend of mine. I think he uses plaster now and throws snow flock on top of that. It looks good, but different than the rest of his stuff. NecronSchmecron fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Feb 12, 2011 |
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Feb 12, 2011 18:27
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From what I've read, low quality PVA can yellow over time. So yes, a drop of white is probably a good idea.
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Feb 12, 2011 18:28
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Does anyone have the link handy that showed a nice way to convert lasguns to melta guns using green stuff and a few other simple supplies. I remember seeing it in this thread, but after a good half hour of searching page after page I just can't find it.
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Feb 12, 2011 19:24
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loving christ, this took forever. Because I am lazy, not because it was difficult.  It's the Fightin' 35th Shibuyan!   Attack of the blurry Guardsmen! It's shakey, like you're really there!  Their trademark orange Lasrifles are easily confused for toys on some planets...  I thought green tanks would look nice on red armour. I thraka-washed three or four times over boltgun, inspired by Fix's Frog Knights. It looks pretty great in person, not so great in this photo.  Some of the details. The Munitorum clearly felt they deserved their own canteens, too. (This soldier is derelict in his duties, having no bayonet afixed nor in its sheath; he has since been summarily executed.) 
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Feb 13, 2011 01:45
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Those Guardsmen are boss. I've never seen a more intimidating bunch of guys with Super Soakers.
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Feb 13, 2011 03:08
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Playing around with the light tent while I wait for coats of dullcote on my newest stuff:   
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Feb 13, 2011 06:58
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 Lancer:    Cyclone:   Squire:   Heavy jack wreck marker I made from stuff I found in the bits tub at the lgs: 
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Feb 13, 2011 08:32
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drat dude, very nice. I like the cygnuses and the weathering a lot.
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Feb 13, 2011 08:38
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Crossposting a WIP from the warmachine oath thread: I just painted a pretty sweet face on my reeve hunter (lighting issues + crappy iphone camera keeping it from looking quite as good as it does in reality). Not happy with the way the wolf pelt is shaping up, though, if anyone has any bright ideas on giving that some more depth (and contrast with the olive green I'm using on the cloak), I'm all ears.
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Feb 13, 2011 09:28
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Maybe add some streaks of "white" in the pelt? A light gray might help to add contrast. EDIT: going by color theory, adding red would be best, and I'm pretty sure there are wolves with reddish-colored fur. Maybe that instead?
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Feb 13, 2011 15:03
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Fyrbrand posted:Playing around with the light tent while I wait for coats of dullcote on my newest stuff: I apologise for a criticism first but - your pics will benefit from indirect, not direct light i.e. bounce the light off or through white sheets, also if possible move the camera away & zoom in. Painting: nice coherent scheme, well executed.
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Feb 13, 2011 17:08
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Sole.Sushi posted:Maybe add some streaks of "white" in the pelt? A light gray might help to add contrast. First highlight with a mid brown like Bootsrap Leather, then highlight with Skorne Red.
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Feb 13, 2011 17:23
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Sole.Sushi posted:Maybe add some streaks of "white" in the pelt? A light gray might help to add contrast. Except that the face is pretty warm already and you will collapse some local contrast. I'd say shade with a warm gray or dark cobalt and highlight up to a clean white to make it frame the face and really contrast with the warm earth tones. I did that sort of thing here (on the Great Bears): 
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Feb 13, 2011 17:48
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Cakefool posted:I apologise for a criticism first but - your pics will benefit from indirect, not direct light i.e. bounce the light off or through white sheets, also if possible move the camera away & zoom in. No worries about the criticism, man. I appreciate the advice. I actually do have indirect light from 3 different sources, diffused through the light tent. But they're cheap lamps so not super bright. I thought it was better to have the camera close when using the macro function, but I'll try moving it back and zooming in. Thanks dude.
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Feb 13, 2011 17:55
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Fyrbrand posted:but I'll try moving it back and zooming in. Thanks dude. This is a good idea. Also, no matter what you do, enchanted blue never photos right. Ever.
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Feb 13, 2011 18:12
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Fyrbrand posted:No worries about the criticism, man. I appreciate the advice. I'm a better photographer than painter, I don't like to criticise
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Feb 13, 2011 22:51
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I'm the middle of attempting to convert my vox caster guardsmen into melta-gun guardsmen. On the left is how they started out, middle is where I am now in the process, right is the melta gunner I'm trying to replicate. This is my first attempt ever at using green stuff, and I'm finding that cutting the melta-holes into the nozzle is a lot harder than it seems. Should I wait til it hardens to try that?
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Feb 14, 2011 00:20
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Right, well, it seems that I am a Hobby Idiot™ and will be painting 150 or so Night Goblins. I'm planning to airbrush the base rims, tape them off, airbrush the shield bosses, tape them off, then spray and drybrush the bodies before removing the tape and doing details. Please, give me the inspiringest pics/advice you got.
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Feb 14, 2011 00:31
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Twig, you need a more stable center to be able to remove the holes without deforming the barrel. Try using something as a central rod (like a plastic q-tip tube), or having a core of already cured greenstuff.
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Feb 14, 2011 02:44
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Twig, you need a more stable center to be able to remove the holes without deforming the barrel. Try using something as a central rod (like a plastic q-tip tube), or having a core of already cured greenstuff. I had been using a piece of wire, but it seems it's not thick enough. I'll try something thicker next time. Thanks. That's brilliant. Im gonna try that out if I can find tubing the right thickness. vvvv Master Twig fucked around with this message at 05:04 on Feb 14, 2011 |
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Feb 14, 2011 03:24
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Another option for melta barrels is to cut some plastic tube the approximate length of the barrel and heat up a tiny flat-head screwdriver like from an eyeglass repair or PC tools kit with a candle flame. Press the hot screwdriver to the plastic where you've drawn your lines and voila.
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Feb 14, 2011 04:20
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First model in 5ish years, don't be too mean. Was lazy on shooting the pictures, once I have some more stuff painted I'll take better pictures.   
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Feb 14, 2011 10:08
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Your paints could use a little thinning, but otherwise a drat fine model.
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Feb 14, 2011 19:25
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