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VoidAltoid posted:$200 new saw blades Is that in U.S. Dollars?
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Feb 11, 2011 03:31
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Finally got around to making a new handle for my knife honer. Turned out great until I screwed up the mounting hole   Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Also finished fabrication of a frame for my babies room. I'd like to keep the walnut as light as possible (goes nicely with the elephant picture right now) - any suggestions on finish?  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.
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Feb 11, 2011 03:52
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Nice looking frame. Do you have to apply any finish? I like the way it looks now. Possibly a clear oil just to protect it from drying out completely. Haven't worked with this for years so I have no idea what product to suggest.
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Feb 11, 2011 12:45
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Iskariot posted:Nice looking frame. Do you have to apply any finish? I like the way it looks now. Possibly a clear oil just to protect it from drying out completely. Haven't worked with this for years so I have no idea what product to suggest. I'm thinking a clear spray-on lacquer. It will still darken up a tiny bit.
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Feb 11, 2011 14:32
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Won't a lacquer give it a fair bit of shine? IMO it ruins the beautiful wood structure the frame now has. Well, not ruin, that's exaggerating. I'm just not a fan of shiny finishers on wood with nice structure.
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Feb 11, 2011 15:53
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What kind of miter saws do you guys have? I've been eying up a couple models for a possible basement finish, some odds and ends around the house, and I'd like to try some relatively simple wood working by building a small entertainment center out of sheet goods and seeing where things go from there. I was looking at a Makita 10" slider and the Craftsman 12" slider. If price wasn't an object, I'd go with the Makita. But, it's hard to justify spending over $400 for the saw when I'm not a contractor and don't plan on cutting wood to pay the bills. The reviews on the internet don't get into too much depth and are generally written by DIYers. I know wood magazine or one of those ran a miter saw review and the Makita 12" was a top pick and the craftsman was tops for overall value to price. I'm leaning towards waiting until the craftsman goes on sale(sears seems to do this a lot) and order a good blade replacement for it. If I could grab the saw for $250 or so minus the blade upgrade, it would be hard to justify spending more that $100 more for a smaller saw unless there's some horrible problem I'm ignoring. Dust collection seems to be universally terrible on all sliders that aren't Festool so that isn't a large concern seeing as I'm going to be using this in the mouth of my garage with the rear end pointed out anyway. The reason I'm looking at the slider is I don't want a table saw. For what I'm looking to do, I'm planning on using the slider for cross cuts, my circular saw and straight edge for rip cuts and wider crosscuts, and a bosch router kit I'm looking at for everything else. Throw in a usable block plane and a ROS and I think I'm in good shape, at least for the entertainment project. Down the road if I progress with the wood working, a decent band saw would be the next purchase.
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Feb 11, 2011 17:13
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Cue RAS recommendation in 3...2...1... PAGING DR. GEMORRIS 
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Feb 11, 2011 17:20
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The RAS is nostalgic for me. My dad had one of those horribly unsafe early 80s craftsman saws that he would use for everything, cross cuts, dados, and ripping. That thing would bind up all of the time and pop breakers. I didn't know what a table saw was until I was 12. But I'm not getting a RAS, even a proper one. I like spinning blades being moved away from me, not at me!
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Feb 11, 2011 17:38
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You probably shouldn't be standing in the path of the blade anyhow. 
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Feb 11, 2011 17:40
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DeWalt, Milwaukee, Hitachi and Bosch make great mitre saws as well. The 10" and 12" dual bevel sliding mitre saws from Bosch get really good reviews. It's a lot of money but you need a slide. You don't need dual bevel but I'd recommend it. (I have to shell out $1000 for the GCM 10SD, that's model 4310 in the US, I think) No idea how Craftsman holds up against the international brands. Makita mitre saws are typically more expensive than Bosch/DW counterparts in Europe. I made a post about mitre saws earlier today: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3384038&pagenumber=2#post388015496
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Feb 11, 2011 19:17
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The main advantages of a sliding miter saw over a RAS are: 1. Portability 2. Ease of purchase (It costs more, but you can go buy a good one right now, new, and don't have to hunt on craigslist for one). You loose the ability to rip, groove, dado, and cut mouldings. You pay anywhere from three to six times as much for privilege. A well tuned RAS is a pleasure, a poorly tuned one is a safety nightmare. The RAS puts the responsibility for proper tuning on the user, the miter saw puts it on the factory. This, along with the fact that the rails on most saws are more exposed and allowed to collect dust and abrasive particles means that the Slider will wear faster, but once it does there isn't much the user can do to get it back in tune. Other than buy another expensive slider. I'm sorry your father had a lovely craftsman RAS, if I had grown up with that I probably wouldn't consider a RAS either. However, a well tuned DeWalt or Delta 9-12" RAS really is the tool that will best suit your needs, especially considering the fact that you don't want to buy a table saw.
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Feb 11, 2011 19:41
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Next version of this thread title: "Woodworking Megathread: GEMorris sets you up with a 1960s RAS"
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Feb 12, 2011 02:09
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Cobalt60 posted:Next version of this thread title: "Woodworking Megathread: wormil makes you look like a chump and GEMorris sets you up with a 1960s RAS"
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Feb 12, 2011 03:02
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This is my favorite phase of any thread. Wordworking Megathread: Don't Forget the Workbench
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Feb 12, 2011 03:32
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I picked up a huge amount of redwood 2x6s from a deck demo that Im going to repurpose into an arbor and raised beds for my front yard. Id like to protect the wood from the elements but keep the wood close in color to natural redwood. Any suggestions?
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Feb 12, 2011 05:58
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Hey guys, I'm new to woodworking and I need to build a workbench. I was thinking about starting off with a piece of curved plate glass on top of 4 traffic cones... but before I begin, is there any required reading I should look into? Inferior Wang: You probably already know all this, but: 1. "Sliding mitre saw" vs. "Mitre saw" - if its a sliding mitre saw, you can slide the (spinning) blade and housing out, towards you, effectively increasing the depth of the throat - in other words, it kind of works like a RAS and you can cut bigger poo poo that way 2. "Compound Mitre Saw" vs. "Mitre saw" - compound mitre saws have 2 axiis of freedom, so you can cut a board 45o, looking from the top down, and 45o looking straight at the piece (like if the board was at eye level, laying flat) 3. "Dual compound mitre saw" vs. "Compound mitre saw" - same as #2 except you can cut on the 2nd axis either to the left or to the right (again, if you were looking at the board - laying flat - at eye level) 4. "Sliding dual compound mitre saw" - about $600 bones, N.I.B. Also get one with a laser, they're immensely convenient. Back in MY day (which, well, I'm probably younger than anyone else in here) you had to make a tiny cut to check that it would cut on the line, then go ahead and make the full cut. No human has ever gotten it right the first time. You would always have small practice cut marks in your piece. Please correct me as needed, etc
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Feb 12, 2011 05:59
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dwoloz posted:I picked up a huge amount of redwood 2x6s from a deck demo that Im going to repurpose into an arbor and raised beds for my front yard. Isn't redwood naturally pretty resistant to the elements? The New Yankee Woodshop dude made a deck lounge chair out of it and cited this reason (I thought).
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Feb 12, 2011 06:00
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Its rot resistant but it greys with age (UV damage). I figure there's no silver bullet but Id like some sort of coating to last as long as possible
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Feb 12, 2011 06:34
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Bad Munki posted:This is my favorite phase of any thread. Wordworking Megathread: Don't Forget To Over-Complicate Your Workbench (aka Build it RIGHT) Edit: holy poo poo I posted this BEFORE I saw "I was thinking about starting off with a piece of curved plate glass on top of 4 traffic cones... but before I begin, is there any required reading I should look into?" -- honestly can't tell if this is serious but no, this is not a good idea  Cobalt60 fucked around with this message at 07:41 on Feb 12, 2011 |
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Feb 12, 2011 07:26
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Cobalt60 posted:Edit: holy poo poo I posted this BEFORE I saw "I was thinking about starting off with a piece of curved plate glass on top of 4 traffic cones... but before I begin, is there any required reading I should look into?" -- honestly can't tell if this is serious but no, this is not a good idea Agreed, you should use old spools instead.
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Feb 12, 2011 08:02
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Anybody here do woodworking out of an apartment garage? I just moved from a house to an apartment and I am curious how the power tools will be received. The only ones I am really worried about pissing people off are the planer and joiner since they are loud as gently caress and usually used for a lot longer periods.
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Feb 12, 2011 09:33
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JEEVES420 posted:Anybody here do woodworking out of an apartment garage? I just moved from a house to an apartment and I am curious how the power tools will be received. The only ones I am really worried about pissing people off are the planer and joiner since they are loud as gently caress and usually used for a lot longer periods. If I was your neighbour I'd probably give you a couple of days in case you were doing some renovations but if it went on after that I'd be having a chat with you or calling the manager. The biggest thing that destroys quality of life in apartments (and some houses) is noisy neighbours. It can make people's lives miserable and because some people are too meek to complain you might not know it. It all depends on the actual layout of your garage in relation to other people of course, as well as the time of day you'd be doing stuff, but anyone living near or above the garage are probably already sensitive to people coming and going as it is. Of course that's just my perspective - I'm quite sensitive to noise and it's the main reason why I choose to live in a house. I'd go nuts if I heard people walking above me when I'm trying to sleep.
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Feb 12, 2011 12:22
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GEMorris posted:The main advantages of a sliding miter saw over a RAS are: Thanks for the info. Like I said before, I figure I can make up most of the difference with my circular saw and a router and some clamp guides. There's a newer bosch miter saw that has bearing operated arm instead of the rails, but the action is the same. Still way out of my price range though. When I started scouring the internet for wood working information I was surprised to see how infrequently I saw a RAS in peoples shop tours. I always assumed it was as standard as a table saw or drill press based on my experience growing up. My dad built some good looking furniture with that thing. On the other side of things, I didn't realize how much you could do with a band saw. I never thought you could get straight cuts with them based on the saw we used in shop class when I was in HS back in the 90s, but it seems like a great alternative for a lot of operations people use a table saw for. Plus, you can obviously do things you can't do on a table saw with it. Being in IT I'm kind of trained to think old equipment==useless. But it's funny how I've learned that certain older large machines like bandsaws, RAS, drill presses, etc are just as good if not better than their younger siblings if they're taken care of. I'm sure that bandsaw we had in shop class was perfectly fine, the teacher probably just didn't tune it...ever. Boner Buffet fucked around with this message at 12:48 on Feb 12, 2011 |
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Feb 12, 2011 12:41
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My biggest gripe with a RAS is that evolution of the tool stopped decades ago. What would be great with a RAS would be preset angles and quick handles like on a mitre saw. It looks like most shops with a RAS today use them exclusively for 90 degree straight cuts. The potential in a RAS is fantastic but you have to manually check all angles for every adjustment. That said, I'd love to have one and try to evolve the design.
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Feb 12, 2011 13:30
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dwoloz posted:Its rot resistant but it greys with age (UV damage). I figure there's no silver bullet but Id like some sort of coating to last as long as possible You can't get UV Protection without tinting the wood. I found this out the hard way when I turned my beautiful Cedar deck yellow on accident. I blame the paint store guy. Anyways, I will be power washing/sanding the finish off in the spring and just putting a clearcoat finish on. I'll accept a bit of graying.
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Feb 12, 2011 16:00
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Doesn't polyurethane yellow from UV rays? I'm thinking specifically how the resin invariably yellows on any surfboard, that's spent a lot of time in the sun, that I've ever seen.
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Feb 12, 2011 17:25
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The Scientist posted:Doesn't polyurethane yellow from UV rays? I'm thinking specifically how the resin invariably yellows on any surfboard, that's spent a lot of time in the sun, that I've ever seen. Nah, the finish I put on was tinted, it just turned out WAY more yellow than I was shown on samples because my cedar was extremely light. I think if the cedar was darker it would have been fine.
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Feb 12, 2011 17:52
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I did a project on this in school, the basic tl:dr version is exactly what MashallX said, you can't get much UV protection without yellowing the wood. This is because the UV blocking agents are themselves, yellow. While waterborne poly finishes don't have the yellow tint, they also don't protect against UV damage nearly as much. In the last five years this has started to change, with new clear formulations of UV cured coatings able to provide UV protection without giving off a yellow tint. The problem of course is that UV cure finishes are in no way a DIY proposition.
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Feb 12, 2011 23:19
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JEEVES420 posted:Anybody here do woodworking out of an apartment garage? I just moved from a house to an apartment and I am curious how the power tools will be received. The only ones I am really worried about pissing people off are the planer and joiner since they are loud as gently caress and usually used for a lot longer periods. if your budget can stretch to it, I've heard that the spiral heads for joiners are a hell of a lot quieter than the traditional setups
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Feb 13, 2011 00:41
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Dear Hitachi: Whoever is designing your power tools seems to think he is a 12 year old making a "totally rad space motorcycle." Please get rid of this bizarro tribal green and black fairing poo poo all over your stuff. It's retarded. tia, Munki.
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Feb 13, 2011 00:50
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 .....have to agree on that one
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Feb 13, 2011 01:42
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Dear Bad Munki, Thank you for your input. We value feedback from customers and potential customers, however we feel that in a competitive market it is important to have a unique selling point that differentiates our product from that of the competition. We believe that our focus on eye catching aesthetics helps us to achieve this goal and is an important part of our design philosophy. Focus groups show that a lot of people in the building trades, particularly those in the 16-30 year old demographic, like our designs. Positive words associated with our product include: cool, different, non-conformist, fun. There are at least five other brands that offer "vanilla" quality power tools, only Hitachi offers quality with something a little different. Regards, Hitachi Power Tools.
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Feb 13, 2011 02:25
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JEEVES420 posted:Anybody here do woodworking out of an apartment garage? I just moved from a house to an apartment and I am curious how the power tools will be received. The only ones I am really worried about pissing people off are the planer and joiner since they are loud as gently caress and usually used for a lot longer periods. Think of this as an excellent time to practice you hand-tool woodworking skills. Your neighbors are going to hate you if you are running power tools all the time. If your apartment has a garage that does not share a wall with any neighbor, then it might be possible to sound proof it enough to make them only loathe you. I'd seriously consider building a nice French, German, or English bench and then restore some handplanes. Bandsaws do tend to be quieter than most stationery power tools, and ripping is the most annoying thing to do with hand tools, so if I could only have one tool and noise was my biggest concern, I'd probably go bandsaw. MrPete is correct, a spiral segmented head jointer/planer is much quieter, but it will still likely be louder than your neighbors would prefer. I'd recommend paying your wood supplier to plane your lumber to the desired thickness when you buy it.
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Feb 13, 2011 05:42
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dwoloz posted:
AVP 3 mothership of powertools
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Feb 13, 2011 06:04
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GEMorris posted:Bandsaws do tend to be quieter than most stationery power tools, and ripping is the most annoying thing to do with hand tools, so if I could only have one tool and noise was my biggest concern, I'd probably go bandsaw. I own a ShopSmith (multi-tool thingie with a bandsaw attachment) and it's actually not terribly loud. Like a bit louder than a Kitchen-Aid or a nice juicer. Old-school motor driving belts, instead of the modern style. I bet it would be fine to run during "daytime" hours. I'd also back GEMorris's suggestion - get into building small stuff and refine a skill set that "only hand tools can do." Wacky hand-inlay, stringing, planing, molding, poo poo even stuff like chip carving is all cool and could enhance any future work. Any of those skills will last your lifetime. Edit: (sorry for double-post)
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Feb 13, 2011 06:09
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truncated aardvar posted:... Dear Bad Munki, After reading your letter we are saddened that you can not appreciate that our power tools are tearing down the interstellar highway at a billion, trillion miles an hour while shooting lasers and poo poo. Pew, pew, Hitachi Power Tools.
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Feb 13, 2011 06:10
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Therrrrre we go, much more accurate.
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Feb 13, 2011 08:08
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I ordered a $30 combination waterstone from Amazon last week and finished sharpening my chisels yesterday. I think I'm going to end up going with waterstones - Sandpaper works OK, but it seems like I was constantly replacing it and going through it fast. Of course, a complete set of Norton waterstones is over $200 and I can get a Work Sharp 3000 from Amazon for $190...
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Feb 13, 2011 20:09
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LordOfThePants posted:I ordered a $30 combination waterstone from Amazon last week and finished sharpening my chisels yesterday. I think I'm going to end up going with waterstones - Sandpaper works OK, but it seems like I was constantly replacing it and going through it fast. Read the article I posted about a page back. $150 for a Diamond Extra Coarse stone that is also a flattening stone, and a 1000/8000 combo stone. A worksharp is going to run through sandpaper just as fast as the scary sharp method that you just left.
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Feb 13, 2011 20:15
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Circus Pies! posted:more like: Dear Sir, Only Hitachi power tools would befriend Shia LaBeouf  Regards,
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Feb 13, 2011 21:32
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