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OK, Have a 92 Accord EX with a coolant leak. Car has 145k miles, Tbelt/water were replaced at 80k. Radiator/hoses are dry (they were replaced 2 months ago). Drip point is on the front of the block right behind the driveshaft pully. Coolant is green, no oil mix. Oil looks fine, no brown pudding. Assuming that the waterpump seal decided to let go. Just wanted to get AI's opinion before I bust open the tbelt housing and swap belts/pullys/waterpump. I am doing the work myself. Also, this car sat for nearly 4 years with no startup. I did the usual prep after getting it from my sister in law for $500. Replaced radiator, hoses, battery, filters, fluids, muffler, and had to resolder the TCU main board because of a popped cap. Ran fine for 2 months, until the waterpump decided to let go.
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Feb 13, 2011 06:38
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Meydey posted:OK, Have a 92 Accord EX with a coolant leak. Car has 145k miles, Tbelt/water were replaced at 80k. Radiator/hoses are dry (they were replaced 2 months ago). If its leaking from the front crank area its the water pump(or its gasket)... And yes you do want to put a new timing belt on there, because of course coolant on it is a BAD thing... Use honda OEM parts for the belt and pump. They're not much more expensive than a house brand but totally worth it... Wipe the cam gears, tensioner, and crank pulleys down with some solvent too to get the coolant off of them. And of course inside the timing cover.
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Feb 13, 2011 08:06
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How bad is this:  and what do I need to do? I'd prefer to make it look nice again, but the car's worth about $1800 and I'm not  enough about it to respray the whole thing (a respray was already done once by the PO... badly). I'd like to cure the rust and/or get it to look nice enough that it's not loving the resale value so much, because I want to keep this car less than another year. Less than another 6 months if I'm lucky.
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Feb 13, 2011 09:05
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Alright, I need some goon opinions on this. I've got a Mazdaspeed Protege, and an exhaust leak that I had welded a few years back has reopened. I've got some cash burning a hole in my pocket, and I put in a new, wider-diameter downpipe a few months back, so I figure this is a good time to go ahead and do the rest of my exhaust. I want something bigger than the 2.25 inch stock system, because I plan on building the engine sometime this year and upping the boost a bit. I've got it basically down to two options: 1. Buy an 80mm kit from Corksport, the same guys I got my downpipe from. It's $520 plus shipping+tax if I grab the silencer, another 200 for the high-flow cat, which I'll probably do without. My state has no inspections you see.  Sound here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWs_JG0_jnQ 2. Get, say, one of these options from Borla and find a shop to fab me up some pipes to go with it. A friend of mine did this with his N/A Protege (which he had built up for track racing), and it sounds pretty nice. Sound sample (Another 'Speed, not my friend's):http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-IBNjsthVZg I'm basically trying to decide which sounds better, and to a lesser extent which would be more cost-effective; I don't have access to a welder, hence having a shop do the Borla option, and I know going that route would take a bit more time for the fabrication to get done. Anyone with any experience in this have any advice for me?
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Feb 13, 2011 10:01
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I was watching the Mercedes advert 'believe in horses' or something, and saw this, I presume concept, pop up for a second.... Does anyone know what it was called?
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Feb 13, 2011 16:22
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Light Fields posted:Does anyone know what it was called? http://www.diseno-art.com/encyclopedia/vehicles/road/cars/rare_classics/mercedes-benz_C_111.html
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Feb 13, 2011 18:10
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My chamois is about to give up the ghost. It's tearing and leaving pieces behind everywhere. I'm going to use it once more to wash wheels and toss it. Is there anything better to dry a car than a lamb's rear end? One brand better than another? I grabbed whatever chamois Target had at the time, it's lasted about 2 years and maybe 20 washes. And what is better for applying wax than those lovely sponges they include in the can? Something I could machine wash would be bitchin
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Feb 13, 2011 18:35
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^ I bought some large waffle weave microfiber towels a few years ago from a forum sponsor on one of the Focus forums (who has apparently gone out of business since.) They seem to work better than any chamois I've ever used. They appear to be a fairly common item though...http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Waffle-Weave-Microfiber-Glass/dp/B000BNY22I Splizwarf posted:I'd prefer to make it look nice again, but the car's worth about $1800 and I'm not If you want to do it the "right" way you'll need to take the windshield out, as odds are the rust has worked its way under the glass seal. Then its just a matter of getting rid of all of the rust with a combination of a wire wheel/brush and sandpaper, and then priming and painting over the spot.
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Feb 13, 2011 19:14
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Dbhjed posted:This being said I now have 2 spots on my car that need to be repainted one spot right above my left rear tire about the size of a half dollar, and the other is 3 small tear drop shaped spots on my bumper and another scrape right next to it. When it comes to silver, good paint shops will charge a lot of hours to properly blend in their patch, so that the spot won't be noticeably another color. Sadly, the price is more independent of the size of the area needing paint than you'd probably like. The spot on your fender would be something like a few hundred. As for the bumper, a body/paint shop might charge the same getting a new bumper for you and painting that. I had a front fascia (the plastic surface part of a bumper) repaired and repainted by a high quality shop and it was like $700.
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Feb 13, 2011 19:26
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kimbo305 posted:With any luck, it'll come with a slip of paper with the code on it. Did you ask the vendor how to unlock it? I'm going to have to email them, but from what I can tell if the VIN the radio has "learned" is different than the VIN of the car it's being installed to, it will be locked until a dealer can fix it. I'm just afraid they'll have some bullshit policy of not servicing used radios or something. So basically, there's nothing *I* can do to unlock the radio. I'm just wondering if anyone has any insight into this, if anyone else has ever had to do it, and if so what the procedure was. I've been told to say that I disconnected the battery to do something else and the radio came up locked, but I think they'll notice that my new radio has different buttons and an aux port in a car that had neither of those things in that year.
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Feb 13, 2011 21:23
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Are there any reasons not to get a 4WD Infiniti G37 over the Audi, BMW and Mercedes equivalents? While they are all priced very similarly based on what I've seen thus far it seems the Infiniti offers more bang for the buck. It just doesn't seem to make sense to me to go for the A4 no matter how much I like the styling when it costs more and doesn't give me as much. Does Nissan build their Infiniti brand to be reliable and pleasant to drive? I hear the German cars can be really temperamental and BMW in particular can charge a killing for something as basic as an oil change.
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Feb 13, 2011 22:03
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How painful is it to change the starter on a 98' Saturn? (dohc, manual). I've changed the starters on older Civics, Explorers, and a few H body cars. The one on my Saturn seems pretty inaccessible by comparison. Also, anything I should know beforehand?
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Feb 13, 2011 22:32
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Sponge! posted:If its leaking from the front crank area its the water pump(or its gasket)... And yes you do want to put a new timing belt on there, because of course coolant on it is a BAD thing... Use honda OEM parts for the belt and pump. They're not much more expensive than a house brand but totally worth it... Wipe the cam gears, tensioner, and crank pulleys down with some solvent too to get the coolant off of them. And of course inside the timing cover. Thanks, I had the same ideas.
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Feb 13, 2011 22:32
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I pulled a tire off my car today to patch it (found a screw in it last week when rotating) and found that ANOTHER screw had bored into my tire a few inches away from the other. I don't drive through construction sites so I have no idea what's going on, but anyway... Fortunately both are in the safe areas of tread to attempt a patch. I pulled one out and it patched beautifully. The second, I pulled the head off and can't see the rest of the screw without shining a flashlight into the hole. The tire is still holding air. Are there any tricks you all know of for retrieving this recessed screw so I cant patch it and help my tires last a couple more thousand miles? It's a Subaru so I'd need to replace all 4 tires and I was hoping to wait until Summer.
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Feb 14, 2011 00:55
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PabloBOOM posted:I pulled a tire off my car today to patch it (found a screw in it last week when rotating) and found that ANOTHER screw had bored into my tire a few inches away from the other. I don't drive through construction sites so I have no idea what's going on, but anyway... If its not leaking, and you're planning on replacing them soon, I'd just keep an eye on it and top up as necessary. If you're really worried, I'd take it to a tire shop.
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Feb 14, 2011 01:03
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DerDestroyer posted:Are there any reasons not to get a 4WD Infiniti G37 over the Audi, BMW and Mercedes equivalents? While they are all priced very similarly based on what I've seen thus far it seems the Infiniti offers more bang for the buck. It just doesn't seem to make sense to me to go for the A4 no matter how much I like the styling when it costs more and doesn't give me as much. I enjoy driving the G37 over the C-class; there's some really dubious ergonomic decisions in the C-class ( http://blog.brycekerley.net/post/1029472059/car-review-2009-mercedes-benz-c300 ). Consumer Reports rates the G37 higher than the C-class, 3-series, and A4 too. You may want an opinion from somebody who doesn't drive a heinous beater on a regular basis though.
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Feb 14, 2011 02:12
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I'm looking to get a bit more speed and cornering ability out of my 2000 Celica GT. Where the hell do I start? I've been looking at everything out there, and it's all a little overwhelming. I am looking at a front torsion bar, but have no idea of what exactly to get. Help me AI, you're my only hope.
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Feb 14, 2011 04:05
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Parthenogenocide posted:I'm looking to get a bit more speed and cornering ability out of my 2000 Celica GT. Pay for track days to learn the limits of your car?
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Feb 14, 2011 04:08
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kimbo305 posted:Pay for track days to learn the limits of your car? Then spend the rest on decent tyres.
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Feb 14, 2011 04:14
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BonzoESC posted:I enjoy driving the G37 over the C-class; there's some really dubious ergonomic decisions in the C-class ( http://blog.brycekerley.net/post/1029472059/car-review-2009-mercedes-benz-c300 ). Consumer Reports rates the G37 higher than the C-class, 3-series, and A4 too. I don't think some of those criticisms of the C-class are particularly fair - the steering wheel radio controls are useful and there isn't anything wrong with the cruise control setup. The iDrive system (or whatever they call their version) isn't ideal but isn't horrible either. That said I love my Skyline (which is essentially a stripped out first gen G35) and would definitely consider a G37 over the Euro competitors
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Feb 14, 2011 04:29
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I swore I would never buy another Ford, how stupid would it be to buy a 1994 ranger 4x4? Its at least a manual and an ext. cab, its that or a 1995 Volvo glt 850. I need a cheap daily winter driver to last me until the salt is gone. For $1000 what would be the better deal, the one with better tires or more new parts?
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Feb 14, 2011 05:31
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kimbo305 posted:Pay for track days to learn the limits of your car? I've checked out every nearby (within 150 miles) track, and I have yet to find any useful information as to when track days are and how much they cost. dissss posted:Then spend the rest on decent tyres. Have decent tires on it with plenty of tread. Will be upgrading to Hankook V12s with 17 inch rims as soon as I get my tax return. I know the limits of the car fairly well. I typically drive in the hills near where I live for fun and know when I'm about to lose traction, etc.
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Feb 14, 2011 05:39
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Parthenogenocide posted:I've checked out every nearby (within 150 miles) track, and I have yet to find any useful information as to when track days are and how much they cost. quote:I know the limits of the car fairly well. I typically drive in the hills near where I live for fun and know when I'm about to lose traction, etc. You've had that car for what, a week? Trust me, you'll enjoy driving on a track much much more, and might find higher limits.
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Feb 14, 2011 05:44
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SpeedFreek posted:I swore I would never buy another Ford, how stupid would it be to buy a 1994 ranger 4x4? I think a number of people here have that vintage Ranger and Explorer and are happy with them, including me (94 Explorer auto). They have problems, but what teenager doesn't? I have 197k miles on my daily driver with no major issues. I can't really comment on the Volvo or which would be better though. Parthenogenocide posted:I know the limits of the car fairly well. I typically drive in the hills near where I live for fun and know when I'm about to lose traction, etc. How do you know the limits? Have you been past them? Have you lost traction? I thought I was pretty good, until my first track day when I learned I actually drove like a retard. It was humbling. Where do you live? Most of my track days begin and end in a hotel room.
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Feb 14, 2011 06:19
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DarthJeebus posted:How painful is it to change the starter on a 98' Saturn? (dohc, manual). I've changed the starters on older Civics, Explorers, and a few H body cars. The one on my Saturn seems pretty inaccessible by comparison. Also, anything I should know beforehand? There's a youtube user called Richpin who posts great videos on how to do a lot of work on S-Series. Here's the starter replacement video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U6awyslXkeI The community isn't great, but the SaturnFans forums have a lot of info. Here's the how-to subforum with just guides on doing work. If you ever have any trouble finding info, you could try posting a thread, or just message LowSaturn, he seems to know everything you could need about S-series vehicles.
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Feb 14, 2011 06:27
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I have a 2007 Honda Civic LX that was in an accident (not my fault). The repairs are currently at like $7700, now including a "right frame rail" replacement. I wasn't sure what this is, so I called the dealership and apparently my car has a unibody frame and this is a part of that frame. To repair it, they are going to un-weld out the old piece, and re-weld in a new piece. Somehow it involves lasers. The repair place is fairly reputable, so I don't think they'll do a bad job. However, will this affect the resale value of my car? Will this show up on a car history report? Will this affect the structural integrity of my car? If another idiot causes an accident with me, is this piece going to break off and fly into my heart, killing me? I'm a little worried. My car is worth more than $8000, but I want a resolution that is going to not cost me in the long run in some unforeseen way.
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Feb 14, 2011 06:51
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Splizwarf posted:How bad is this: If you really knew what you were doing, you could cut out the rust, sand and refabricate the windshield frame, but if you knew enough to do that without causing serious problems, you wouldn't be asking this question. Fucknag posted:Alright, I need some goon opinions on this. I've got a Mazdaspeed Protege, ... I want something bigger than the 2.25 inch stock system, because I plan on building the engine sometime this year and upping the boost a bit. If you like the sound of the exhaust, then do it. That's about the only real valid reason for throwing an exhaust on a car, and I say this as a guy who's put an exhaust kit on his past four cars. I like the sound, but I make no excuses that I'm doing it for any other reason. It probably won't cost much to have a shop fab up some pipes for those Borla mufflers, and that's where I'd spend my money. SpeedFreek posted:I swore I would never buy another Ford, how stupid would it be to buy a 1994 ranger 4x4? Its at least a manual and an ext. cab, its that or a 1995 Volvo glt 850. I need a cheap daily winter driver to last me until the salt is gone. Better tires or more new parts? I'd need more information to decide. Parthenogenocide posted:I've checked out every nearby (within 150 miles) track, and I have yet to find any useful information as to when track days are and how much they cost. quote:Have decent tires on it with plenty of tread. Will be upgrading to Hankook V12s with 17 inch rims as soon as I get my tax return. quote:I know the limits of the car fairly well. I typically drive in the hills near where I live for fun and know when I'm about to lose traction, etc. You also realize that sway bars are really just for fine tuning your handling and you should not expect to see fantastic gains from stock, right? By trying to tune out large problems in handling with a sway bar, you are much more likely to end up with the car being an undrivable mess. If you decide later to change struts and springs (your struts are likely worn all to hell and need replacing anyway) and go with anything other than what you currently have, you'll likely have to sell your sway bar and buy a new one. Arcaeris posted:I have a 2007 Honda Civic LX that was in an accident (not my fault). The repairs are currently at like $7700, now including a "right frame rail" replacement. If you disclose this damage to the next owner, it will affect the resale value. Some states provide for insurance to pay for reduced value, others don't. It may or may not get reported to Carfax, but since it doesn't involve a change in the title of the car, probably not. Contrary to popular belief, most body shops don't bother reporting to Carfax. If the body shop knows exactly what they are doing, and does it exactly right, the structural integrity won't be harmed. The big issue is, how do you know? I have two body shops here in Austin that I trust, one is owned by a close friend and only works on Exotics, Porsches, and BMWs. The other is an amazing shop that does amazing work and is pretty much only known through word of mouth. Every racer in town who doesn't take their car to the first shop goes to that one. Even still, either one of those shops would be pushing for a total at $7700 worth of damage on a 2007 Civic. That's just a lot of damage, and while the frame rails are designed to be replaced, it's still a job that requires a lot of precise work to do right. I'd really be pushing my insurance to just total the car already before they get in there and find even more damage. einTier fucked around with this message at 07:20 on Feb 14, 2011 |
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Feb 14, 2011 07:03
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Arcaeris posted:I have a 2007 Honda Civic LX that was in an accident (not my fault). The repairs are currently at like $7700, now including a "right frame rail" replacement. Your decision to keep this car should be based on 1) a detailed assessment of that shop's repair work 2) your own mental comfort with driving a car fixed up from heavy damage and 3) the potential financial hit of selling a repaired car and having to buy a new one.
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Feb 14, 2011 07:23
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einTier posted:Where do you live? I'm sure there's someone running DE nearby, especially if you already know tracks exist. Thus why I'm in this thread. I appreciate all the input and will try to find track days out here (San Jose area). I guess I'll keep pushing the car, especially when I'm on the track. I have gotten to the point of losing traction, but caught it in time to avoid a full spin. I'll keep saving for those rims and tires and see what I can do then on a track.
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Feb 14, 2011 07:52
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Thanks for the responses. The other guy's insurance is paying for all of the repairs, but I had called on Friday to discuss some of these concerns and the claims adjuster was out. I'll have to call and harass on Monday and see what I can do. I was going to drive this until it was worth $1000 and sell it to a poor Mexican family (I'm in CA), but I don't want them to die from an unsafe repair either. I hate buying cars because I have to be in "shark mode," but if I have to go buy a new car in order to have piece of mind, then I'll do it. Also, I can't stand this loving Dodge Charger the rental place gave me. At least it's better than the HHR that I said "gently caress no" to.
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Feb 14, 2011 07:53
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Parthenogenocide posted:I guess I'll keep pushing the car, especially when I'm on the track. I have gotten to the point of losing traction, but caught it in time to avoid a full spin.
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Feb 14, 2011 08:09
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kimbo305 posted:And what did you learn from this, without the safety margin of a track and without the attention of an instructor to critique what you did wrong? That's why everyone was pushing you to get on a track, so you wouldn't do it on public roads. I meant pushing the car at a track, I'll stay where I am on the open road. The near-spin was a lesson to never trust my driving ability that much until I can hone it on a controlled environment such as a track.
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Feb 14, 2011 08:22
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SpeedFreek posted:I swore I would never buy another Ford, how stupid would it be to buy a 1994 ranger 4x4? Its at least a manual and an ext. cab, its that or a 1995 Volvo glt 850. I need a cheap daily winter driver to last me until the salt is gone. That's too cheap for the Volvo unless you're living way out in the boonies, if the bodywork isn't obviously hosed, something's wrong with it. Around here (northern VA) $1000 worth of 850 won't pass State Inspection. Not too cheap for the truck but it'll probably look rough. Which you don't care about.
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Feb 14, 2011 13:06
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So I bought an 09 Nissan Versa w/23k miles yesterday from a local Nissan dealership, pretty happy with the deal/car. The one thing I feel a bit boneheaded about was not taking the time to think about the extended warranty the finance manager offered me. The car is covered by the nissan drive train cert for another 80k miles but thats it. For another $800 they were offering me 100k mile bumper to bumper, all electrical, body, etc.. (although I didnt catch if it covered maintenance or not). At the time my extended warranty alarm went off in my head and I roundly rejected it like I do on all of the electronics I buy, but after cooling off for a day i'm thinking... drat, for the extra $15/mo that might just have been a good thing to have. Did I make a big misstake? Are there any decent 3rd party options out there for things like that?
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Feb 14, 2011 17:18
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It was only yesterday, maybe they'll still do the warranty it if you ask them. You are, after all, offering to give them more money.
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Feb 14, 2011 18:28
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heat posted:It was only yesterday, maybe they'll still do the warranty it if you ask them. You are, after all, offering to give them more money. After I turned it down I asked the dude "If I change my mind can I still buy the warranty?" he said no that It had to be done before the car was turned over to me.
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Feb 14, 2011 18:38
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I have this moan/slight grind sound coming from the rear of my '04 CVPI. It only seems to sound in first gear, after the car's been on the road for several miles, and during sharp left and right turns. Does this mean it's the differential? I happened to change the fluid, filling it with Amsoil gear oil, but that was last Thanksgiving (about 5,000 miles ago). Also, the fluid level still checked out OK the other day, so my RTV gasket seems to be good. Any ideas why it would grind like that?
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Feb 14, 2011 19:47
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Sointenly posted:So I bought an 09 Nissan Versa w/23k miles yesterday...The car is covered by the nissan drive train cert for another 80k miles but thats it. For another $800 they were offering me 100k mile bumper to bumper, all electrical, body, etc.. So if I'm reading this correctly, the car has a 100,000 mile factory warranty. Was the extended warranty going to cover the next 100,000...? If so odds are you'd run out of time before you'd run up that many miles unless you do a LOT of driving.
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Feb 14, 2011 21:24
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Geoj posted:So if I'm reading this correctly, the car has a 100,000 mile factory warranty. Was the extended warranty going to cover the next 100,000...? If so odds are you'd run out of time before you'd run up that many miles unless you do a LOT of driving. Yes and no, the car does have a "power train" 100k factory warranty, but as I'm sure you know that only covers the motor and trans. The one they were offering me was a full bumper to bumper, which would cover everything from electrical to the finish on the car.
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Feb 14, 2011 21:44
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What about the manufacturer's full warranty? I'd assume an 09 car would still be under it (don't most companies offer 3+ years...?). Or is it non-transferable from the first owner?
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Feb 14, 2011 22:15
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