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My cat Simba is about a year and a half now, and lately she has stopped using the litterbox. She is pooping and peeing EVERYWHERE, sometimes in hidden places that we don't find for days. She seems completely healthy otherwise, she's acting totally normal and eating regularly. I'm guessing this problem has a lot to do with stress over having a new housemate, as it seemed to start right around the time our other cat Mopsy came to live with us. Does that seem like a reasonable assumption? How in the world do I get her to stop? I don't know how to relieve any stress she feels about Mopsy because Mopsy is extremely skittish. Any friendly advances that Simba makes are met with a hiss and a swat, followed by Mopsy flying out of the room. I have no idea what to do here. And while I'm at it, I have a smaller, less important question too: Where can I find a collar that my kitty won't be able to get off? I must have bought five or six different collars for Simba by now and she has managed to squirm out of every single one of them. I just want her to wear her tags in case she gets lost. 
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Feb 3, 2011 04:35
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fembot posted:My cat Simba is about a year and a half now, and lately she has stopped using the litterbox. She is pooping and peeing EVERYWHERE, sometimes in hidden places that we don't find for days. She seems completely healthy otherwise, she's acting totally normal and eating regularly. I'm guessing this problem has a lot to do with stress over having a new housemate, as it seemed to start right around the time our other cat Mopsy came to live with us. Does that seem like a reasonable assumption? How in the world do I get her to stop? I don't know how to relieve any stress she feels about Mopsy because Mopsy is extremely skittish. Any friendly advances that Simba makes are met with a hiss and a swat, followed by Mopsy flying out of the room. I have no idea what to do here. How many litter boxes do you have? If you have two cats, you should have 3 boxes. Are your litter boxes in easily accessible places with multiple exits so that your cat doesn't feel like she is being ambushed when the other cat is in the room going. Because if the other cat is in there and she goes in there to go and is met with hostility, it could lead to her finding other places to go. I'd put several boxes throughout the house...not just in one room. I'd try some Cat Attract litter and a Feliway diffuser as well. And it might not hurt to have a vet check her out, just in case.
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Feb 3, 2011 04:58
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hhgtrillian posted:How many litter boxes do you have? If you have two cats, you should have 3 boxes. Are your litter boxes in easily accessible places with multiple exits so that your cat doesn't feel like she is being ambushed when the other cat is in the room going. Because if the other cat is in there and she goes in there to go and is met with hostility, it could lead to her finding other places to go. I'd put several boxes throughout the house...not just in one room. I'd try some Cat Attract litter and a Feliway diffuser as well. And it might not hurt to have a vet check her out, just in case. We have 4 litter boxes (I added one hoping to stop this problem) in various places around the house. Possibly the most frustrating thing is that one of the spots she's chosen to go instead is in the corner about a foot BEHIND the box. Thanks for the tips, I've been looking into getting a Feliway anyway so maybe I'll pick one up.
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Feb 3, 2011 05:09
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fembot posted:We have 4 litter boxes (I added one hoping to stop this problem) in various places around the house. Possibly the most frustrating thing is that one of the spots she's chosen to go instead is in the corner about a foot BEHIND the box. Thanks for the tips, I've been looking into getting a Feliway anyway so maybe I'll pick one up.
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Feb 3, 2011 05:11
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So what kind of things do people's dogs like to play with? My pup isn't that much of a player and I want to know what's gonna be super fun and keep her attention. She will chase a ball once, maybe twice. Chasing her around the yard only keeps her interested for a couple minutes. She's more interested in tug but she seems to get bored of that too. Even the kong stuffed with peanut butter is only fun if everyone's home and happy and nearby. Then she just picks it up and drops it because she's a smarty paws and figured out that's how food gets knocked loose. I'm so used to happy! happy! fun! dogs (plus they always looked like they were smiling), that Ephy seems like she's always bored and serious looking. My partner is great about wrestling and rough housing and she likes that a lot, but I'm already covered with scrapes and have about 6 bandaids on and it just doesn't work so well for me.
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Feb 3, 2011 20:39
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Help me, PI-Kenobi. You're my only hope. Not really, but I'm sure someone here has some good advice to offer. My 3yo rescue black lab mix is becoming quite the pain in the butt to train. Around our house and yard he's fairly well behaved and responds to our commands, but as soon as we take him for a walk or to the dog park, it becomes an exercise in frustration. On the rare occasion that he listens to commands, it takes repeating it several times and using angry voice to get him to comply. We can only take him to the fenced-in dog park because 1. he's a flight risk and 2. he absolutely refuses to come when called. It's an hour-long ordeal trying to get him so we can leave, and he kept my gf at the park once for 2.5 hours because he just refused to come. Clearly he needs more training, but that brings up the main issue: outside of house/yard, he is 100% unmotivated by either treats or affection. We can offer him the biggest, tastiest treat known to dogdom and he'll just sniff at it, maybe lick it, then go back to whatever he was fixated on previously. Since it's hard to train a dog without some kind of positive motivator, what can we do? Is there a way to condition him so that he responds to treats in all situations, or do we need to find some other incentive? We're at a total loss of what that could possibly be.
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Feb 3, 2011 21:59
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Gonktastic posted:So what kind of things do people's dogs like to play with? My pup isn't that much of a player and I want to know what's gonna be super fun and keep her attention. She will chase a ball once, maybe twice. Chasing her around the yard only keeps her interested for a couple minutes. She's more interested in tug but she seems to get bored of that too. Even the kong stuffed with peanut butter is only fun if everyone's home and happy and nearby. Then she just picks it up and drops it because she's a smarty paws and figured out that's how food gets knocked loose. If she likes tug, make sure you set her up so that she "wins" every so often. My dog Spirit is also one of the "eh, toys whatever" kind of dogs, so I'm working on training her that toys are FUN! Right now she'll pick up her rope toy and whip it around a few times, and when I see her doing that I'll hold the other end of it. If she drops it so do I. If she pulls even a little, I let go and give her snuggles because yay she won the game! I feel like a jackass during the occassional moments that she'll play fetch too, since I jump around and squeal at her like there's nothing in the world that would make me more excited than her going to get that ball and bring it back to me. Make sure the dog knows you're having fun, and then she'll start having more fun too. Squeaky toys have been a big hit, although I had to buy a couple of different kinds before I found one she didn't immediately rip up and then ignore. One kind was a stuffed flower that had a squeaker in every petal and in the middle - she loving loves that thing and it's nearly intact. Edit: Also SyHopeful - Listen to a life less below me! She's been a HUGE help to me with a similar (although not as bad) issue I have with my lab mix regarding pulling and not listening during walks. There's still work to do, but it's been a huge turnaround from where we started to where we are thanks to the dog training thread. That thing I sent fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Feb 3, 2011 |
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Feb 3, 2011 22:39
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SyHopeful posted:Help me, PI-Kenobi. You're my only hope. So what IS rewarding to your dog? Squeaky toys? Balls? Roughhousing? Tug? Running? Sniffing? Greeting other dogs? Filet Mignon? Write out a list of most to least reinforcing items. It might help give you a starting point for how to motivate your dog. I'm in the midst of building up my food crazy dog's tug drive. You can build one drive with another, to a certain extent. Also, it sounds like you jumped straight from boring ol' home to OMG EXCITING OUTDOORS WITH DOGS AND PARK AND OMG. Maybe try to find 2-3 "middle grounds" where you can begin introducing distractions gradually. Buy a long leash, maybe 20-30 feet and let him drag it behind him so you can limit his freedom while he learns proper recall. Horse lunge lines are cheaper than the exact same things designed for dogs. Also, the Dog Training Megathread might give you a few ideas. There are quite a few people with some good ideas who post in there regularly. Edit: Maybe pick up a book or two for some training ideas. I recommend Control Unleashed: Creating a Focused and Confident Dog by Leslie McDevitt. Edit #2: Repeating commands and using the "angry voice" are not great ways to encourage your dog to listen. The repetition is essentially showing your dog it's okay to phase out the command a few times, and the angry voice is essentially threatening your dog to comply. You want to have success without threats, and the thread I listed has some good guidelines for how to achieve it. a life less fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Feb 3, 2011 |
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Feb 3, 2011 22:45
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Gonktastic, my dog is similarly hard to get to play, even when she's full of hyper energy. One thing we discovered though is that she loves monkey in the middle...my husband and I just start throwing her toys back and forth and she loves to chase and jump after them. I've also started playing a 'game' where I throw her kibble for her. I make it into a training exercise where she has to come sit for me or Watch or some other trick and then I throw the piece of food and she runs after it. I think it's okay because it comes out of her regular food and she gets exercise. The food motivates her while a ball will get boring after a few throws. SyHopeful, teaching a bombproof recall is one of the hardest and most important training exercises. I agree with a life less that it sounds like you skipped from no/low distractions to omg! distractions. You need to establish the middle and work on up until recall is just habit for the dog no matter what else is exciting. A few things to remember: always set the dog up for success. In fact, I'm still at a stage where I don't say the word come until my dog is already coming. I say her name or get her attention some other way and then say come when she's on her way and then reward her. I do this around the house randomly. Another thing is that you have to make sure that the recall command isn't always followed by something the dog doesn't like. If you take your dog to superfun dog park and then Come! means fun time is over, your dog will learn to avoid the command like any other punishment. Practice recall in lots of situations and lots of places so that it's just common place and doesn't mean anything bad. Also practice grabbing the dog's collar randomly so they get used to being snagged when you need to leave.
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Feb 3, 2011 23:14
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Thanks for the suggestions  She does love squeaky toys but she kills the squeaker after about 10 minutes and then rips the seams open. I can't afford a new one every day! I will keep at the playing and trying your suggestions.Now for the new questions/problem! Goody. My aunt offered to bring over her black lab who she said is super full of energy and plays too roughly with their dog. Ephy had him whupped and waiting at the gate ready to leave after about 10 minutes... So they played together pretty well at first and her behavior was just confusing. She would lick his face and mouth, which has always been identified as a submissive thing to me. Then they'd play a bit and all of a sudden she'd be biting his ears and driving him around the yard until he ran off from her. Once they were more tired, she would alternate between licking his face and biting his muzzle. She'd literally put his entire face in her mouth. My aunt said he's always been super dominant to other dogs and she'd never seen him so quiet and ready to go. Ephy was being a big ol bully.  When she left she said we could have more playdates when Ephy is a bit nicer. I don't know who will let my dog beat up their dog... I always wanted a dog who I could take to the beach and now I'm sad because I don't know how to find another dog whose bigger and stronger who will teach her how to playfight without actually fighting.
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Feb 3, 2011 23:53
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 Took Ginny to the e-vet tonight. We called for an appointment with our regular vet, but he still wasn't in, and the receptionist told us she really didn't expect him to be able to come in for another week. They didn't really seem to know what was up with her paw, although the vet there told us there was a good chance that the excessive licking and chewing she was doing was actually what was causing the ridges on her paw pad to separate. They sent us home with a collar and some ointment (Animax) and told us to apply it twice a day for two weeks and see how she does. On a positive note, they weighed her there, and she's down seven pounds from when we first adopted her! She's not too thrilled about the cone, so for now we're leaving it on while the medication is soaking in, but won't subject her to it when one of us is around and able to keep her from chewing/licking.
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Feb 4, 2011 01:48
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Awww, I hope the medicine works fast
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Feb 4, 2011 02:29
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a life less posted:So what IS rewarding to your dog? Squeaky toys? Balls? Roughhousing? Tug? Running? Sniffing? Greeting other dogs? Filet Mignon? Write out a list of most to least reinforcing items. It might help give you a starting point for how to motivate your dog. Thanks a ton for the tips. We have found that things that motivate him in the house/yard, like treats and affection, have absolutely no appeal to him when we are anywhere else. He seems to get strongly focused on people/other dogs/other animals when we have him out for walks, but even then he just wants to investigate for a few seconds before something else grabs his attention. There really isn't anything we've noticed, while away from the house, that can be used as an incentive. Can dogs have ADD?? We fully knew taking him to the dog park was a bigger step than he was ready for, but that is the Catch-22 we are caught in. Everything I've read about dog training says that a well-exercised dog is way more open to training, and ours has so much energy that the dog park is literally the only place we can take him to get that energy out. Walks don't even come close. Letting him off-leash at the dog park means he'll run, quite literally, for an hour straight, stopping only to poop or hydrate. I have never seen a dog with this much energy before. I'll take this to the dog training megathread from here out. Again, thanks
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Feb 8, 2011 02:40
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Hi guys! Our neighbors got a pair of kittens a few months ago, which they immediately began letting outside. I have two adult cats, who are let out in the morning and taken in at sunset every day, but the kittens were never kept inside at night. Our neighborhood is right on the edge of a canyon and there is a very audible, definitely-there pack of coyotes living inside. One of the kittens turned up missing about a month ago. He was never found but I'm almost 100% sure it was the coyotes. His playmate is going crazy with boredom and pent up energy, and for the past three days, has moved herself into our house. She's really great and we like her a lot, but she's becoming dependent on us as her people are never home. She meows for attention all day and doesn't ever leave. How can we correct this situation? My ideal outcome is for her people to take her inside at night, or keep her inside all the time. We don't want to just lock her out when it gets dark - that would be punishing her, not them, and I would never forgive myself if she got caught by the coyotes. We're leery of confronting them because in the past, they haven't been receptive to any friendly advice and we don't want to force our opinions on them (a year or so ago, when they had endlessly barking dogs, their advice was for us to "throw water on them to shut them up"). Currently, our best plan is to knock on their door at night, and tell them that we saw a coyote in the street and we took her inside to protect her, and then hand her over. Has anyone else experienced this kind of situation, and what did you do?
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Feb 8, 2011 02:54
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Coyotes kill easy targets during the day too you know. 
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Feb 8, 2011 05:09
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Hi Pet Islanders, I'm posting this question in here to be on the safe side as I'm not sure what the interest level in a thread on the Equestrian industry would be. Basically I work with horses as a dressage groom and rider and am hoping to make a long-term career out of it. I have experience in everyday horse care and riding, at least in terms of how livery and competition yards are run in the UK and Europe. I've seen there has been the odd thread about horses in PI but I'm wondering if there are any Goons who would be interested in a general Equestrian thread. Please hook me up, horsey goons!
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Feb 8, 2011 17:12
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fembot posted:We have 4 litter boxes (I added one hoping to stop this problem) in various places around the house. Possibly the most frustrating thing is that one of the spots she's chosen to go instead is in the corner about a foot BEHIND the box. Thanks for the tips, I've been looking into getting a Feliway anyway so maybe I'll pick one up. You can also try switching the litter to see if there's a certain kind she prefers. Since there are multiple litter boxes, trying different litters in each, and perhaps having coverings on some, but not all, could help.
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Feb 8, 2011 20:15
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Kerfuffle posted:Coyotes kill easy targets during the day too you know. Yeah, I know. Of my two cats, one is inside ~95% of the day and the other is pretty wised up by now. We live on a residential street with cars coming and going constantly, as it's mostly college students with various class schedules. People have seen coyotes up in the streets as late as 9am and then again when it gets dark, but they're never just hanging around all the time during the day because of all the people, noise, and cars. Do you have any ideas for the actual problem, getting a neighbors kitten out of my house?
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Feb 9, 2011 02:00
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I am an idiot and have no idea if this is a stupid question or not. Our 8(ish) year old cat recently had a bit of an accident and we suspect he got hit by a car which broke one of his back legs. We took him to the nearest vets and he had his leg lopped off and he seems to be coping ok. While he was at the vets they found that he has renal problems (I'm not sure what term the vet used, maybe it is failure? but it didn't seem like it was anything serious which failure implies?) and gave us a course of tablets and recommended we start feeding him foods that will help his condition. That has presented us with a problem, we have no shops within the area that have that food for our cat . Which means our only option is ordering online which is more expensive and also a massive pain in the arse. So my question is, can we do it ourselves? It's probably a ridiculous query, but these foods seems to be either low protein or high protein or something? (various sources seem to contradict each other) Can I do something like adding vegetables or giving him more meat? Or is this something that would end up with my cat dead. Any experience living with a cat with renal failure/disease/problems would be appreciated also, like do's and do nots, I trust u goons
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Feb 10, 2011 15:44
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I'd steer clear of trying to treat renal issues on your own by inventing a kidney diet. Does the vet carry the prescription food, or know another office that does? I think there was a thread a little while ago about cats with renal failure. Our old boy Nicky lived for years, quite happily, eating his prescription kidney food. Eventually he did need saline injections, at an increasing frequency, but it wasn't a huge hassle. edit: here's the thread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3337915 Seriously, don't try to make up a diet to treat your cat. Andrias Scheuchzeri fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Feb 10, 2011 |
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Feb 10, 2011 15:51
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So I'm trying to decide on a companion for my 1 1/2 year old cat. She was a stray, last of the litter and the only survivor, so, we couldn't take two. She's spunky, playful, relatively mischievous, and she does play bite, though, when she gets agitated, she will bite then too, and she does pounce at legs. She isn't destructive, at least, towards anything that isn't a cardboard box. She hasn't seen another cat for over a year. But, I think it'd be great to have her attention directed towards something (someone) else. She appears lonely too, sometimes. I've read up, done a bit of research, and most people say I should be trying to get a male, but the disparity of opinion is on what age he should be. Some say a kitten of only 3-4 months would be great. Some tell me older, but not by much. The last thing I want to do is to stress her out, and I think bringing in something noticeably older would do just that. Help me goons. You're my only hope.
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Feb 10, 2011 16:27
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Andrias Scheuchzeri posted:I'd steer clear of trying to treat renal issues on your own by inventing a kidney diet. Does the vet carry the prescription food, or know another office that does? thanks for that link, that is what I was after the vets we took him to was a charity run thing we have in the UK, PDSA, and the nearest one is at least 45 minutes away in a car, which we do not have, but yes they do sell the specialised food. It's just getting there and the money really. Does anybody have any recommendations for cat food for cats with renal failure that is available throughout the UK which isn't absurdly expensive?
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Feb 10, 2011 16:39
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fembot posted:My cat Simba is about a year and a half now, and lately she has stopped using the litterbox. She is pooping and peeing EVERYWHERE, sometimes in hidden places that we don't find for days. She seems completely healthy otherwise, she's acting totally normal and eating regularly. I'm guessing this problem has a lot to do with stress over having a new housemate, as it seemed to start right around the time our other cat Mopsy came to live with us. Does that seem like a reasonable assumption? How in the world do I get her to stop? I don't know how to relieve any stress she feels about Mopsy because Mopsy is extremely skittish. Any friendly advances that Simba makes are met with a hiss and a swat, followed by Mopsy flying out of the room. I have no idea what to do here. Thank you for all the advice everyone! She seems to be doing much better, I got a new, small litterbox and hid it in the corner of a room. There's litter all over the carpet, but that's better than poop. This morning though, Simba threw up. I wouldn't really be concerned about it if not for her problems lately. I tried to think if she's had any behavioral changes, and recently I've noticed that she's been getting knots in the fur around her neck (she's a long-haired cat, and I try to brush her at least every two days, but they're still showing up) and her paws are absolutely filthy. I feel completely paranoid, like I'm being a ridiculous overprotective mother, but on the other hand I'm scared you all are going to tell me I should have rushed her to the vet ages ago. Help me PI
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Feb 10, 2011 17:51
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fembot posted:Thank you for all the advice everyone! She seems to be doing much better, I got a new, small litterbox and hid it in the corner of a room. There's litter all over the carpet, but that's better than poop. Well, one of the ways cats demonstrate that they're not feeling well is a change in behavior, in your case, not using the litter box. As you recently added a new cat, it was logical to assume that the litter box change was because of the new cat, thus it being a purely behavioral thing. But, combining a new behavior, vomiting, as well as a decrease in grooming... it could suggest some underlying medical issue. Or it could still be completely behavior, by Simba being stressed out about the other cat. To be completely sure, a vet visit, or at least consultation with said vet, would be best.
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Feb 10, 2011 20:03
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Are there any diseases/parasites I should be worried about if my dog is playing with and rubbing faces with an unknown cat? The cat is staying inside my house at night so there is a fair bit of contact, and I'm going to go pick up a litterbox today. Also are there any downsides to putting a collar with a little bell on a cat? boyfriend thinks it will aggravate her a lot but I'd like for her to not kill birds and things, now that she will be getting a steady supply of food from us. Cassiope fucked around with this message at 14:54 on Feb 11, 2011 |
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Feb 11, 2011 14:22
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My vet said my 5-year old cat has the onset of gum disease and recommended a $250 cleaning to reverse it. Is it worth it or is she taking me for a ride?
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Feb 11, 2011 17:16
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faarcyde posted:My vet said my 5-year old cat has the onset of gum disease and recommended a $250 cleaning to reverse it. Is it worth it or is she taking me for a ride? That's probably about an average price for this procedure, which is a good thing to do. In future (or actually even starting now) you may consider brushing your cat's teeth.
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Feb 11, 2011 17:20
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Cassiope posted:Are there any diseases/parasites I should be worried about if my dog is playing with and rubbing faces with an unknown cat? The cat is staying inside my house at night so there is a fair bit of contact, and I'm going to go pick up a litterbox today. First things I think of are fleas, then stomach/intestine parasites. If I brought an outside cat of unknown origin into my home, I'd go get a fecal test (from vet) for the cat. I might even get one for the dog if they've had a lot of contact and I really wanted to be sure. Dogs can sometimes love munching on kitty poo.
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Feb 11, 2011 17:29
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Is there a safe way to dye your pet's fur? This might sound like a stupid question but if there is a completely non-harmful way to dye (long or short term) pet fur what are some goon-tested products?
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Feb 11, 2011 22:09
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Soviet_Russia posted:Is there a safe way to dye your pet's fur? This might sound like a stupid question but if there is a completely non-harmful way to dye (long or short term) pet fur what are some goon-tested products? Manic Panic is totally nontoxic and safe for animals, and I believe people have used food dye and Kool-Aid with no ill effects.
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Feb 12, 2011 00:10
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I used bright pink food coloring on my Foster dog's fur once to give her this awesome neon pink mohawk...  A lot of people loved it. All it took was like two or three drops and I spread it with my hands and a comb. My hands were quite pink for a few days too.
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Feb 12, 2011 03:25
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Like most cats, my cat kicks litter all over the bathroom floor when he uses his box. I keep it swept up as often as I can, but every so often I'll be petting him and I'll find pieces of litter in his fur (he even had a couple of pieces on his forehead one day, what the gently caress). If he starts grooming himself, is it dangerous for him to ingest single beads of litter?
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Feb 12, 2011 03:59
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Soviet_Russia posted:Is there a safe way to dye your pet's fur? This might sound like a stupid question but if there is a completely non-harmful way to dye (long or short term) pet fur what are some goon-tested products? 
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Feb 12, 2011 23:26
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What exactly is the difference between spay-sway and just a fat belly?
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Feb 12, 2011 23:37
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Spay-belly will be mostly skin, and normally is just in front of the rear legs. A fatty will be fat elsewhere too. My cat is coming up to 2, slender everywhere except her belly. Her fur is way longer there too, which accentuates it. Go nature.
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Feb 13, 2011 05:42
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Soviet_Russia posted:Is there a safe way to dye your pet's fur? This might sound like a stupid question but if there is a completely non-harmful way to dye (long or short term) pet fur what are some goon-tested products? I've heard kool-aid suggested as something that you can use but have not done any research personally into whether or not this is actually safe, or just one of those things that's often repeated as being safe while in fact being harmful.
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Feb 13, 2011 07:38
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6-Ethyl Bearcat posted:Spay-belly will be mostly skin, and normally is just in front of the rear legs. A fatty will be fat elsewhere too. What's the going rate on cosmetic surgery to remove spay-bellies? 
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Feb 13, 2011 14:30
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wraithgar posted:I've heard kool-aid suggested as something that you can use but have not done any research personally into whether or not this is actually safe, or just one of those things that's often repeated as being safe while in fact being harmful. My sister dyed her hair with kool-aid in when she was in 5th grade, and she didn't die or anything. She did boil the water first and put it in while still really hot; this apparently takes it "temporary" to "permanent".
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Feb 13, 2011 16:40
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Hopes Fall posted:My sister dyed her hair with kool-aid in when she was in 5th grade, and she didn't die or anything. She did boil the water first and put it in while still really hot; this apparently takes it "temporary" to "permanent". Yes, but this doesn't mean it's necessarily safe for animals. Plus, you have to account for the fact that some of it will be ingested. I know it's Kool Aid, but it's not exactly intended for animal consumption.
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Feb 13, 2011 18:45
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Not sure if this has been covered elsewhere, but is there a way to start schedule-feeding my cat without completely freaking him out? We have two cats and a dog, the dog is on a feeding schedule and one cat doesn't give a gently caress as long as he gets to eat at some point, but CJ, the second cat, literally has panic attacks if the bowl is empty, even if he isn't actually hungry. He starts yowling, tearing around the house, crying, and crinkling any available paper or plastic to emulate the sound of the food bag. He makes a tremendous amount of noise and will not let up, even if we play with him or give him some catnip or a toy. A lot of times we'll fill up the bowl, only to have him not even eat out of it! I'm at a loss to understand this--he was born indoors and has never, ever gone hungry at any point in his life. He's getting fat and we want to be able to both keep him healthy and put both cats on the same schedule as the dog. How can we assure him that the bowl being empty does not signify imminent starvation?
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Feb 13, 2011 22:40
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