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meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Black88GTA posted:

My roundels wore out. :saddowns: So, I got some :rice: CF ones from Ebay to drop on there instead. They're actually nicer than I thought they'd be, although the back one didn't fit out of the box. The new ones have 5mm studs to mount to the car with. Perfect for the hood, but the OEM trunk one had 3mm studs. I had to dremel away some plastic to get the rear one to fit, because gently caress drilling out my decklid for that.

The trunk badge wasn't nearly as bad as the hood one, but the paint was starting to flake off of it.

:silent:




:whatup:



Wait... woah... wha... when did you get an 840/850/who cares what number give us some real pics with the car's story. I've always loved those things, but have been terrified to buy one because of the maintenance horror stories.

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Kidney Stone
Dec 28, 2008

The worst pain ever!
Lost the ability to brake. :supaburn:

The story is that a couple of days ago, my dad came by to take a look at problem I had with the rear left disc brake - we found out, after taking the brake apart, that the calibre were rusted in a fixed position, and so the brake pads and disc were ruined (only metal left on the pads, and a huge groove in the disc).

So we removed the pads, and would then just drive until I got the spareparts home (new calibres for the rear wheels, 2 x discs and 4 x pads) - stupid I now know.

So today, while going to pickup the new pads, suddenly the brake stopped working - I really had to pump the pedal hard to get any function at all - and then a short while on, the warning light for "low brake fluid" came on!

Not a fun drive home...

Took the wheel off, and found out, that the stuck and rusted calibre had moved a wee bit out, and since the piston seal were missing, the brake fluid had leaked out.

Well, tomorrow I'll get the brakes changed.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

Kidney Stone posted:

calibre

Is this Norwegian or something for caliper?

I kind of did something similar when one of my brake pads decided that its way of telling you it's almost worn is to start sliding out and wedging itself between the caliper and rotor, locking it solid. I had to smash it off with a big bottle jack (weight of the car wasn't enough) and then I stuck a solid stainless steel business card holder into the caliper to keep it from popping the piston out while it was tied to the lower control arm with a coat hanger. There was still a decent amount left on the pad too.

Kidney Stone
Dec 28, 2008

The worst pain ever!

Lowclock posted:

Is this Norwegian or something for caliper?

Well, I'm Danish, and yes, I did find out it's spelled caliper - but thanks for reminding me :doh:

Black88GTA
Oct 8, 2009

meatpimp posted:

Wait... woah... wha... when did you get an 840/850/who cares what number give us some real pics with the car's story. I've always loved those things, but have been terrified to buy one because of the maintenance horror stories.

It's a '94 840 - I've had it for about 4 1/2 years now. Bought at about ~82k, currently at ~116k miles. It's my DD most of the time, gently caress garage queens. Normally, I'd be driving my Subaru SVX with snow tires in winter, but not this winter because it blew a head gasket and I didn't fix it in time before the cold hit.

The 840 has been awesome. Little things have gone wrong here and there, but they were things that I'd lump into the "16 year old car" category, and nothing I'd call big. I won't list all of it here, but it was mostly easy to fix stuff that I did on my own, although I did take it to an interior shop to have the headliner redone, and also to have the control arm bushings pressed in. The only time it ever left me stuck is when I ran it out of gas because the on-board computer totally lied to me about the amount of gas remaining in the tank. :colbert: The fuel pump died shortly after this. Coincidence?

I take it on longish drives all the time, and it never skips a beat. The maintenance horror stories probably stem from people who take their cars to the mechanic whenever a bulb burns out. The mechanics see these and don't know what the gently caress, so they throw (often wrong) expensive parts at them in the hopes that it'll fix it. As long as you can do at least some of your own wrenching, can read forums, and know the car's quirks and common failure points (most mechanics don't), it is not bad. Of course, as with any car, if you get a neglected one to start with, you'll be in a world of expensive pain getting it back to "reliable driver" status.

I don't have any fresh decent pics of it, I really need to get on that. All I have is a couple shots from just before I bought it, and it has this godawful sunroof deflector and front plate on it. Both of which are now gone.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005
I sort of finished making my ACVW into a wasserboxer. The radiator is finally mounted. It's down a thermo fan, the cowling isn't on it yet, nor is the gap around the rad properly sealed, one of the thermo fan mounts fell off and one of the rad hoses leak where the thermo bulb is but it's finally there, screwed and bolted in. It took hours. So loving sore.

CanAm
Jan 4, 2009

Eh.
I bought my ride today.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005

Parthenogenocide posted:

I bought my ride today.



very nice. Swap you? You like bleeding, arc burn and throwing away money right?

CanAm
Jan 4, 2009

Eh.

General_Failure posted:

very nice. Swap you? You like bleeding, arc burn and throwing away money right?

This thing runs extremely well. Anything is less of a potential money sink than my old 4Runner.

Tomorrow I buy new rotors and brakes, rotate the tires, and change the oil before I take it back up to San Jose.

Ricecop69
Mar 7, 2003
80 degrees outside today, so I used that as a opportunity to make a new vid of the car's idle when cold and warm.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I8tU55XY4R0

CanAm
Jan 4, 2009

Eh.
New brakes, new oil and filter, and took it back home to San Jose.

Drove down in my 97 4Runner, came back in a 00 Celica.


Click here for the full 1184x888 image.



Click here for the full 1792x1344 image.

rockcity
Jan 16, 2004
Just replaced one of the center console bulbs in the lady's Corolla. They sure know how to make changing the simplest part a huge pain in the rear end. Hey, let's make snap-in connectors for everything but the two main wires leading to this panel so you can only pull it forward about 2 inches instead of all the way out so you can actually access the bulbs. Frankly I'm still not sure why the bulb stopped working in only a 3 year old car. Even the dealer said he's only sold one console bulb ever and the car was almost 20 years old.

Conelrad
Mar 22, 2004

Everything will be fine
Grimey Drawer
I got my car back from the repair shop after my ill fated crash into a SUV.





Although the repair shop seemed to do a decent job i've had two separate issues so far.

-A few hours after getting the car back I got a CEL and the car went into "limp mode". I checked under the hood and noticed the electronic modulator connected to the throttle body had no screws and had disconnected. After refastening it i've had no more issue in that regard.

-Today while driving the car just shut off on two occasions. The entire dash board would light up. Popped it into neutral both times and was able to start the vehicle right away. After the second time I did a hard reset by pulling the negative battery cable and haven't had anymore issues yet.

Otherwise i'm ecstatic. I really missed my car those three weeks and as sort of a penance I was forced to drive a 3/4 Ton Chevrolet Rape Van to get around.

CommieGIR
Aug 22, 2006

The blue glow is a feature, not a bug


Pillbug
Discovered at one time the Turbo Boost Control Solenoid had been replaced....and the hoses re-installed backwards, which was causing limp mode.

Fixed and now I'm happy

tonedef131
Sep 3, 2003

Black88GTA posted:

My roundels wore out. :saddowns: So, I got some :rice: CF ones from Ebay to drop on there instead. They're actually nicer than I thought they'd be, although the back one didn't fit out of the box. The new ones have 5mm studs to mount to the car with. Perfect for the hood, but the OEM trunk one had 3mm studs. I had to dremel away some plastic to get the rear one to fit, because gently caress drilling out my decklid for that.

The trunk badge wasn't nearly as bad as the hood one, but the paint was starting to flake off of it.

:silent:




:whatup:


Despite the seemingly unnecessary overhang I've always loved the front end of these cars. It's like an E24 and a MKIII Supra had a dirty shameful affair and the 8-series was the resulting bastard child. It turned out beautiful, but had even worse mental stability and weight problems than it's parents had.

nurrwick
Jul 5, 2007

I MacGyvered it.

About a week ago, my reverse lockout got stuck in the up position, and then stopped engaging altogether over the course of three shifts into reverse.

Being totally awesome, Nissan doesn't sell just the reverse lockout; to replace it with a known-good part, I'd have to order the $130 shifter assembly. Here's the broken 3 dollar injection-molded piece of plastic:

The interface between black and white plastic is supposed to be a peg-in-hole joint, to stay flexible enough to allow things to slide freely regardless of [whatever bullshit allowed them to underengineer this part and not sell it separately].

A few ideas later, I got tired of having to lean halfway into the passenger's seat to actuate the white plastic piece. I tried to remove the whole assembly, but the pin that keeps the pieces in place wouldn't budge. And, lo, it was to be that Picture Wire saved the day:




So basically, use the last ring of the tensioner spring to actually pull up the white plastic, and then use the (now non-functional) downpiece of the black plastic to anchor the retainer wire to keep the assembly intact.

Works great, although the original and very satisfying "clack" that happened when shifting out of reverse is now somewhat subdued... it's a trade I think I'll take.

mwells_cubed
Aug 7, 2003

WOW
Well, I washed it and paid $260 to have the intermediate steering shaft replaced, but not in that order.

I also bought an OEM radio with auxiliary port which will hopefully be coming next week. :unsmith:

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!

Podothehobbit posted:

I got my car back from the repair shop after my ill fated crash into a SUV.





Although the repair shop seemed to do a decent job i've had two separate issues so far.

-A few hours after getting the car back I got a CEL and the car went into "limp mode". I checked under the hood and noticed the electronic modulator connected to the throttle body had no screws and had disconnected. After refastening it i've had no more issue in that regard.

-Today while driving the car just shut off on two occasions. The entire dash board would light up. Popped it into neutral both times and was able to start the vehicle right away. After the second time I did a hard reset by pulling the negative battery cable and haven't had anymore issues yet.

Otherwise i'm ecstatic. I really missed my car those three weeks and as sort of a penance I was forced to drive a 3/4 Ton Chevrolet Rape Van to get around.

I really love that wing on your car.

Conelrad
Mar 22, 2004

Everything will be fine
Grimey Drawer

Rhyno posted:

I really love that wing on your car.

Haha thanks! Now I just need to get an actual RS front end slowboated from Japan to complete it, so expensive though.

Conelrad fucked around with this message at 14:20 on Feb 12, 2011

djhaloeight
Jan 23, 2007

techno mafia.
I replaced the passenger door power window motor in my '88 Cutlass. It was totally seized. Now to do the driver side. It still works, but the passenger side is so much faster, and they gotta be the same!

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005
I replaced the screws holding the windshield mesh stone guard bracket on to the A pillars. I used tek screws. Nice flat heads and infinitessimally larger diameter than the soft as butter lovely screws that were in there so it screwed in tight.

ColHannibal
Sep 17, 2007
I tried my new door lock actuator to see if it would fix the problem, no dice. That is the last thing in line I have checked to fix the door lock problem on my Integra right after fuses, alarm, Door lock control unit, second door lock control unit.

gently caress this problem.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
Made my car JDM/DTM tyte.



(Anyone wanna buy a 240sx?)

edit: \/\/\/\/\/ In a "what have you done to your MS3" way, or a "I would like to give you cash for your 240" way? I like the latter.

MetaJew fucked around with this message at 08:53 on Feb 13, 2011

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!

MetaJew posted:

Made my car JDM/DTM tyte.



(Anyone wanna buy a 240sx?)

I would love to chew your ear about your car.

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
Found out that a 4.5mm allen key exists and is required for adjusting the residual fuel pressure on an Audi 5000:


Of course I don't have one, and discovered the size after spending an hour and a half taking apart the airbox to get it out of the fender.

SlimManFat
Nov 12, 2010

RUST RUST RUST RUST RUST RUST RUST RUST RUST RUST RUST RUST RUST RUST RUST
I changed the oil on my piece of poo poo Focus. Got to keep it running until I can afford another car.

sk8bored
May 23, 2007
Out with the old

In with the new

20 pound difference in weight, and the car no longer sounds like a Camry.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Did you heat shield a sway bar? :psyduck:

sk8bored
May 23, 2007

meatpimp posted:

Did you heat shield a sway bar? :psyduck:
No, Lotus did that the factory.

ming-the-mazdaless
Nov 30, 2005

Whore funded horsepower

sk8bored posted:

Out with the old

In with the new

20 pound difference in weight, and the car no longer sounds like a Camry.


Is that a Larini?
I'm told good things about their gear.

sk8bored
May 23, 2007
Yeah, Larini. Pretty nice stuff, sounds really good too. Nowhere near as loud as the Lotus stage 2 i had on the Elise. Waiting for my new diffuser to arrive but here is a teaser.

sk8bored fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Feb 13, 2011

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

sk8bored posted:

No, Lotus did that the factory.

I assume cuz the heat might eventually anneal and harden the swaybar?

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

kimbo305 posted:

I assume cuz the heat might eventually anneal and harden the swaybar?

Oh come on, no Lotus suspension piece would fatigue and crac... oh yeah.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!
Cross posting from the Jeep thread.

A few days ago the muffler and exhaust broke and fell off my Cherokee.







So I bought a new muffler, cut the tailpipe off the old one and bolted it all together.




It's now more quite than it's ever been in the seven years I've owned the Jeep. I have the tailpipe strapped up a little too close to the car so I've going to go buy a urethane bushing to go onto the original hanger. I also want to put another hanger near the front of the muffler just to be extra safe. As suggested I used Locktite on all the bolts and I'm not driving it until tomorrow morning.

DropShadow
Apr 15, 2003

Installed a set of S4 doorblades on my Avant:



(Those are my winter wheels. My new summer wheels are waiting patiently in the garage.)

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005
Perhaps not today but in pieces during the week I cleaned all the poo poo out of my VW. It had accumulated crap from two house moves, lots of work and an engine swap. The only place I could get in was the drivers seat because the rest of it was full!
I actually laid down on the bed for the first time in a couple of years yesterday. That was the feeling of progress!

MATLAB 1988
Sep 20, 2009
Have I posted about my Subaru XT yet? Here are pictures of my Subaru XT. POST POST POST.
Changed my Subaru XT's engine & gearbox oil and cleaned the car. Found some condensation/milkiness under the oil cap but the oil & coolant were clean. The 1st-2nd upshift is grinding when the oil is cold now. I've put about 20k miles on this car but I still don't really trust it not to leave me stranded somewhere. Maybe I'll swap in an EJ18 to get 30+mpg and better reliability if the headgasket goes.

Met AI poster toaster_pastry at autozone when he recognized my beautiful 1986 Subaru! A+ would meet a goon again.

My Benz is still in winter storage because it's a lovely car to drive in the winter, I took it out today. It needs a laundry list of maintenance done in the spring but nothing out of the ordinary. I do have to deal with the growing rust spots on the trunklid and driver's door though :gonk:

MrSaturn
Sep 8, 2004

Go ahead, laugh. They all laugh at first...

DropShadow posted:

Installed a set of S4 doorblades on my Avant:



(Those are my winter wheels. My new summer wheels are waiting patiently in the garage.)

Sorry...what? What's a doorblade? Before/after would help.

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug

MrSaturn posted:

Sorry...what? What's a doorblade? Before/after would help.
I think it's the nubbins pointing out at the kickplate on the bottom of the doors. The S4 has it (I've seen a few S4s with them broken off and it looks pretty bad).

e:

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trouser chili
Mar 27, 2002

Unnngggggghhhhh

MATLAB 1988 posted:

A+ would meet a goon again.



I've been wanting to for a long time organize an AI cruise. Nothing crazy, but there are some great roads in the Ozarks.

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