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I definitely like it and it's definitely good for the first model in years. The Gunner's helmet needs a Sepia wash or something to help separate it some more. It just looks like solid yellow in the pictures. At dead least you can take something like Plague Brown (or Bubonic, whatever it is) and paint fine lines into the crevices. You need a pretty tiny brush and a steady hand for that though. Actually, the model needs some sort of wash in just about every crevice, there's not much separation from one part of the model to another, which gives it sort of a toy look. Running lines of Devlan Mud along the edges of where plates meet, or in the grooves of the tail fins really helps the highlights pop out more and helps the overall look of the model. You do need to thin your paints a little bit, but it's not too bad. Last thing I'd say is it's also sometimes worthwhile to go back and cleaning up the highlight lines so they're a little less chunky. It'll also help give the model a tighter, more sleek over all look. Hope that helps. Overall, that's a good lookin' model.
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Feb 14, 2011 21:14
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Hell Diver posted:Hope that helps. Overall, that's a good lookin' model. Just wanted to say: I appreciate that the thread has been more constructive recently. I definitely dig hearing criticism and solutions to problems. As long as nobody's toes get stepped on, please keep it coming. edit: I'll try to post pics of my own crap, so I can get as good as I read. 
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Feb 15, 2011 01:56
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I think the only times we are flat-out scathing with our C&C is when someone posts a poo poo image from Blue Table or e-Bay sales; you know, the stuff we are supposed to make fun of. 
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Feb 15, 2011 02:23
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Got some more done on that Reeve Hunter I posted earlier over the weekend, pretty happy with how it's looking (though I can definitely spot some places that need touching up before I get to basing, looking through photos).   The sword isn't grainy at all in real life - I took those photos right after I went over it with some pigments (tamiya weathering master metals), and before I hit it with some canned air to disperse the excess. Also, holy poo poo do Reaper Master Series dropper bottles suck. I picked up a few of them (their olive triad, used on the cloak here with a little VMC German Uniform and P3 Ironhull Grey helping in the shadows, plus adamantine black) and not one of them actually dispenses paint through the dropper. Total horseshit. I own the entire VMC range and not one of them is messed up, but Reaper is apparently incapable of making a functioning plastic bottle.
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Feb 15, 2011 02:25
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How's the paint though? Good or not worth the trouble?
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Feb 15, 2011 02:27
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I really dislike Reaper paints. They're all sort of pastel, and I've never enjoyed the way they come out on a model.
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Feb 15, 2011 02:40
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Sole.Sushi posted:I think the only times we are flat-out scathing with our C&C is when someone posts a poo poo image from Blue Table or e-Bay sales; you know, the stuff we are supposed to make fun of. Thats a fair assessment of this thread, if you're posting your own mini's you'll get good advice on improving your technique and fair criticism of your painting. But if you're trying to sell your work you'd better be bringing some goddamn golden deamon level work to the table if it's not going to be torn to pieces.
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Feb 15, 2011 02:45
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stabbington posted:
Shove a nail in there, straight down. Make sure it is thin enough to fit in the opening. Should clear out the piece of plastic blocking the opening.
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Feb 15, 2011 03:07
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The discussion of Reaper paints brings up a question I had. When I eventually get back in the hobby (hopefully sometime around late spring/summer), what paints would you guys recommend I go with: Vallejo, Reaper, GW, or some other brand? I'm most familiar with GW's stuff (the Foundation paints are amazing and the washes doubly so), but like most people I'm looking to get more paint for my buck (which is one disadvantage GW paints have), and I'm also curious to try a "dropper bottle" method of paint as well (another disadvantage to GW's paints). Looking around on the Internet naturally hasn't produced any clear consensus (though most everyone dislikes GW paints, some favor Reaper and others favor Vallejo), so I figured I'd turn to fellow goons for advice. Apologies if this has been addressed elsewhere in the thread.
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Feb 15, 2011 06:06
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I can't speak for Vallejo vs. Reaper, but I literally just got my Vallejo order a few hours ago and after using GW exclusively for years I am considering never going back. The Game Colour range are clones of GW's set, and include all the paints they no longer produce, including all but 2 inks and 2 Foundations. The dropper bottles take up less space and have more paint in them (17ml opposed to 12ml), and give you complete control over how much paint you are using at all times. Got a ratio you want to use but don't want to make up a whole new bottle? You can mix it on your palette right every single time. For me, the cost is amazing too. Instead of spending $6AUD in GW on a smaller pot that is nearly guaranteed to dry out, I can order a Vallejo Game Colour bottle that seals properly and has more paint in it shipped from the UK for $2.50. You do have to shake the hell out of them at first, but aside from that they are superior to the Citadel product in every way. I haven't tried any of their Heavy Opaque paints yet (Vallejo's version of Foundations), but I haven't heard any complaints about them. Aside from using the GW washes I have (because they are a genuinely awesome product), I don't think I'll buy another GW paint again.
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Feb 15, 2011 06:54
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Know what paint really sucks? Ral Partha's screwcap tubs of distilled abortion. At least from my experience.
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Feb 15, 2011 07:09
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adamantium|wang posted:I can't speak for Vallejo vs. Reaper, but I literally just got my Vallejo order a few hours ago and after using GW exclusively for years I am considering never going back. The Game Colour range are clones of GW's set, and include all the paints they no longer produce, including all but 2 inks and 2 Foundations. The dropper bottles take up less space and have more paint in them (17ml opposed to 12ml), and give you complete control over how much paint you are using at all times. Got a ratio you want to use but don't want to make up a whole new bottle? You can mix it on your palette right every single time. For me, the cost is amazing too. Instead of spending $6AUD in GW on a smaller pot that is nearly guaranteed to dry out, I can order a Vallejo Game Colour bottle that seals properly and has more paint in it shipped from the UK for $2.50. You do have to shake the hell out of them at first, but aside from that they are superior to the Citadel product in every way. I haven't tried any of their Heavy Opaque paints yet (Vallejo's version of Foundations), but I haven't heard any complaints about them. Aside from using the GW washes I have (because they are a genuinely awesome product), I don't think I'll buy another GW paint again. On the Reaper vs. Vallejo discussion, one review I watched on Youtube said something to the effect that (if I recall correctly) Reaper paints were great for wet blending while Vallejo paints were great if you were more of a "paint in layers" kinda guy (I may have it reversed though). I also read about how much you have to shake Vallejo paints up while Reaper paints have little pewter skulls or something inside to facilitate mixing the paint quicker, but that Vallejo paints are still somewhat better overall (even if you have to shake them for longer periods of time). Sole.Sushi posted:Know what paint really sucks? Ral Partha's screwcap tubs of distilled abortion. I seriously got back into the hobby in 2001, and after a year or two*, I started using the GW paints when they had the screwcap lids. I dunno how bad the RP paints were, but the GW paints with those lids earned every bit of derision that hobbyists laid on them, just like the "flip-top" lids do nowadays. *In the interests of full disclosure, when I seriously returned to the hobby big time, I first started out painting Black Templars with the el cheapo craft paints you get at Walmart (which I did a pretty decent job with, even if I do say so myself). If I could manage to get by with crummy paints that cost less than a dollar a bottle, I'm sure either Reaper or Vallejo will turn me into a painting wizard. 
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Feb 15, 2011 07:16
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I use GW for washes, metallics, and a few of their Foundations. I use Vallejo and P3 for everything else, with Vallejo being the bulk and P3 for some specific colors ( Bastion Grey, Menoth colors, etc)
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Feb 15, 2011 08:41
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Grandpa Pap posted:I seriously got back into the hobby in 2001, and after a year or two*, I started using the GW paints when they had the screwcap lids. I dunno how bad the RP paints were, but the GW paints with those lids earned every bit of derision that hobbyists laid on them, just like the "flip-top" lids do nowadays. I've been in the hobby since the 90's, but haven't picked up a brush for at least 18 months. My GW screwtop pots are all dry, and about 2/3rd of my pop-tops are a write off, yet the three old hex soft tops from the late 90's are still fine (I just can't open them without a bottle opener ).
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Feb 15, 2011 10:32
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adamantium|wang posted:I've been in the hobby since the 90's, but haven't picked up a brush for at least 18 months. My GW screwtop pots are all dry, and about 2/3rd of my pop-tops are a write off, yet the three old hex soft tops from the late 90's are still fine (I just can't open them without a bottle opener Like old wang 'ere, I've been in this hobby since the 90s and of all the GW paints I've owned, I've binned pretty much every one of the epic failure screw top pots yet I still have the old coate d'arms pots knocking about from my first paint set and they work fine and dandy. Not bad for a nearly 20 year old paint On the subject of dropper bottles, I've had the vallejo bottles gunk up on me - nothing a little prod with a paperclip doesn't sort out so no biggy, the big advantage I find in using bottles is that it's easy to mix a few colours, take note of the number of drops I'm using for each and have an easy reference to mix the paint later on without having to mix up big batches and/or worry that I won't get near the right shade again... ...of course this requires me to make notes of the paints I'm mixing at the time, a task I very much suck at 
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Feb 15, 2011 10:52
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enri posted:Like old wang 'ere Quoted for posterity's sake and out-of-context humor.
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Feb 15, 2011 15:00
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Whats the best way to get mold lines off of fingers? I've started cleaning up my AoBR set and the lines on the fingers are stumping me. I've tried scraping them down with my xacto like other lines, but because of the ridges between fingers it doesn't work as well. Any tips?
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Feb 15, 2011 16:12
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You might be able to melt them a bit with some plastic glue.
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Feb 15, 2011 16:15
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Greggorian posted:Whats the best way to get mold lines off of fingers? I've started cleaning up my AoBR set and the lines on the fingers are stumping me. I've tried scraping them down with my xacto like other lines, but because of the ridges between fingers it doesn't work as well. Any tips? Scrape them as much as you can, then get some liquid plastic glue, like Tenax 7R, or plastruct's stuff, and with an old brush you don't care about, brush some on. Or just don't worry about it because nobody's gonna be staring at slugga ork #47's fingers.
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Feb 15, 2011 16:18
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I personally dig them out carefully with the knife like I'm whittling a bit of wood.
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Feb 15, 2011 16:22
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I do the same, I also have a file which has a really fine edge which I use to get rid of the mold lines on knuckles. My suggestion is to Xacto it, File it, run a damp paper towel over it and make sure you didnt miss anything due to all the plastic scuff in the mold after all the scraping.
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Feb 15, 2011 17:23
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GW pots will dry out over a few months because the seals are poo poo. Vallejo will seperate and be almost impossible to remix in their bottle, and will spit paint as they run low. Much of a muchness really. I prefer the GW range beause it's easier to deal with a paint that's thickening from drying than it is a stream of piss-thin juice with no pigment. GW metallics are objectively superior to Vallejo though. Also worth noting that VMC are not an exact match for GW colours. I can't speak to the paint quality of P3, coat d'arms etc (except P3 Coal Black, which is a great highlight for black) but their style of snap lids are the best. Even if the tab will break away and you will rip your nails opening them.
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Feb 15, 2011 17:55
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:You might be able to melt them a bit with some plastic glue. I would never try that, seems like asking or a gently caress up.
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Feb 15, 2011 17:56
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Vallejo will seperate and be almost impossible to remix in their bottle This was one of my gripes but there's an easy solution, slam that motherfucker down on your table a few times like it said something nasty about your mother. Smack it bottom side down quite violently on somethign hard helps loosen up all the stuff that settles in the bottom. Granted, not had an exploding pot yet but I'm sure there's time yet.
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Feb 15, 2011 18:31
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I've heard stories of people dropping a buckshot or other metal pellet in as an agitator to help mix the paint while shaking the bottle.
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Feb 15, 2011 18:33
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Yea, I do that. Honestly, I have not had any real problems with Vallejo. They do settle over time more than other paints maybe, but a couple seconds of shaking seems to do the job just fine. Not a big deal, and much less irritating than GW's paint-drying problem. Reaper actually puts a little agitator in there for you (or they did, not sure if its still true).
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Feb 15, 2011 18:36
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PaintVagrant posted:Chat
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Feb 15, 2011 19:20
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enri posted:This was one of my gripes but there's an easy solution, slam that motherfucker down on your table a few times like it said something nasty about your mother. Smack it bottom side down quite violently on somethign hard helps loosen up all the stuff that settles in the bottom. My brother did that while we were faffing about with the airbrush one day. Off popped the cap and nozzle, and all over me went the Cayman green. Like a Shrek moneyshot.
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Feb 15, 2011 21:40
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Ashcans posted:Yea, I do that. Honestly, I have not had any real problems with Vallejo. They do settle over time more than other paints maybe, but a couple seconds of shaking seems to do the job just fine. Not a big deal, and much less irritating than GW's paint-drying problem. They do--it's a little pewter skull. 
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Feb 15, 2011 21:56
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My greenstuff skill needs a lot of work. My melta gun is identifyable, but man that looks like crap. Any advice for my next attempt?
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Feb 15, 2011 22:17
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2 little bits of advice - get a tiny little file & neaten up the top of the gun. Shorten it slightly, a couple of mm will be fine. Try making the muzzle/emitter end separate from the gun, mount it on a pin or nail or something while you're working, pin or glue it on when it's set.
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Feb 15, 2011 22:29
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bhsman posted:I've heard stories of people dropping a buckshot or other metal pellet in as an agitator to help mix the paint while shaking the bottle. Don't use a metal agitator, use a pebble, you don't want a paint pot full of rust.
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Feb 15, 2011 23:34
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Master Twig posted:Any advice for my next attempt? Use plasticard as much as possible. You'll drive yourself insane trying to do edges in greenstuff. Just when you think it's even you'll spray it and cry at all the mistakes.
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Feb 16, 2011 00:24
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In general, green stuff is great for "organic" looking things because it doesn't hold a hard edge. For mechanical looking things, you'll probably want to either use a harder material that's generally shaped like you want (plasticard, hollow pen tubes, rods, etc) or look at getting another type of putty. I know there's a brown stuff that is supposedly a lot better at holding a sharp edge and can be filed easier than green stuff can be.
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Feb 16, 2011 00:42
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Calico Noose posted:Don't use a metal agitator, use a pebble, you don't want a paint pot full of rust. Use a lead or stainless steel BB Or a bit of sprue or those metal tabs that seem to be on a lot of minis
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Feb 16, 2011 05:53
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So quick question, I have got back into the hobby after a couple years hiatus and I need to get my hands on a large amount of spraypaint/undercoat. I walk into my local GW reseller and find GW cans at $22 Aus!!! so what do you Aus warhams recommend for undercoat and priming large amounts of models without being gouged by our terrible Australian pricing. I did pick up some sepia wash and devlin mud, god drat this stuff is like magic.
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Feb 16, 2011 08:52
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Master Twig posted:My greenstuff skill needs a lot of work. My melta gun is identifyable, but man that looks like crap. Upside, you can get a lot of mileage out of a "melta'dgun" joke.
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Feb 16, 2011 08:59
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^^^^^^^ Totally: just tell people it's the oldest melta gun in the Imperium, and they let a guardsmen use it because it's due to blow up and kill someone sooner or later. Killer_Bees! posted:So quick question, I have got back into the hobby after a couple years hiatus and I need to get my hands on a large amount of spraypaint/undercoat. I walk into my local GW reseller and find GW cans at $22 Aus!!! so what do you Aus warhams recommend for undercoat and priming large amounts of models without being gouged by our terrible Australian pricing. I did pick up some sepia wash and devlin mud, god drat this stuff is like magic. If you have Krylon down there, pick up a can of Krylon Matte White Paint (not primer). Seems to be the standby of pretty much everyone in this thread, which attests to how well it works. Otherwise, any matte auto-body spray paint works, though that stuff can get very expensive. On a different note, if you don't mind using brush-on primer, check out a wonderful product called gesso. Traditionally used as a primer for canvases, it can be found in most every art supply store in different shades, but the ones you want are black or gray, as the white stuff tends to suck hard. While you are at the art supply store, see if you can find any of The Master's Brush Cleaner and Conditioner. A small investment to ensure that even the lowest quality of brushes will last you a very, very long time.
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Feb 16, 2011 09:00
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Killer_Bees! posted:So quick question, I have got back into the hobby after a couple years hiatus and I need to get my hands on a large amount of spraypaint/undercoat. I walk into my local GW reseller and find GW cans at $22 Aus!!! so what do you Aus warhams recommend for undercoat and priming large amounts of models without being gouged by our terrible Australian pricing. I did pick up some sepia wash and devlin mud, god drat this stuff is like magic. Acrylic Gesso. You can get it at most any art store, it comes in black and white, gives no gently caress about humidity and for ~$12 AUD you can undercoat your whole army with one pot.
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Feb 16, 2011 10:47
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Just go to Bunnings and pick up some Matte black spray. I think White Knight and maybe Fiddly Bits make a good quality spray. edit: Listen to Eyespy his idea is better and i'm probably going to go do that myself. Calico Noose fucked around with this message at 10:58 on Feb 16, 2011 |
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Feb 16, 2011 10:47
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