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brickswereshat posted:Any way to manually disengage, permanently disengage, disable the 4wd, or SOMETHING? Worst case, pull the front driveshaft so it will be rear wheel drive no matter what.
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Feb 10, 2011 01:14
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That would work. The front axle assy. will still be spinning but you won't be in 4WD. BTW if you were really in 4HI all the time, your truck would skip, clunk, and hop all over the place whenever you take a turn or hit a sharp curve on the pavement. This would be way more disconcerting than a highway vibe. Another reason why I think their guess might be suspect.
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Feb 10, 2011 03:10
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I just did a slow turn on dry pavement. No skipping/slipping/4wd bs handling crap. My suspension guys are idiots and I will never bring so much as a request for a tire air-stem cap. loving imbeciles. So apparently, I'm back to Death Wobble. gently caress. At least the recent snows have "justified" me not exceeding 55mph on the highway. (speed limit is 65, heh)
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Feb 10, 2011 03:25
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The only way you're going to 100% eliminate death wobble is to systematically check every ball joint and bushing on the front end. Shouldn't be too expensive, but its a ballbusting job to take that all apart.
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Feb 10, 2011 04:19
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EightBit posted:The only way you're going to 100% eliminate death wobble is to systematically check every ball joint and bushing on the front end. Shouldn't be too expensive, but its a ballbusting job to take that all apart. And don't forget: find a different shop.
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Feb 10, 2011 05:20
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For deathwobble, start with steering box play, and track arm play. It's usually the track arm.
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Feb 10, 2011 06:57
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I'm looking to install tube fenders on my TJ but I'm confused on some parts. Do I cut off the section in yellow? Or do I unbolt the blue section to removed the yellow section? Does the blue section just flap around once the tube fender is installed? How would I go about reattaching the lower hood latch?
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Feb 11, 2011 03:01
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Depends on the tube fenders... In my case the yellow part remains and the blue part is covered by my fenders. I had to pull those bolts and use longer/beefier ones to go through the tube fenders and the original holes. That area definetly does not flap around; it's a substantial part of the engine bay.
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Feb 11, 2011 19:02
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Got my uhaul hitch all repainted and my Custom4x4 front tow hooks + strap came in for my XJ today. I'm pumped to have recovery points on both ends of my rig finally. Pretty sad that my Subaru has better stock recovery points then my Jeep
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Feb 12, 2011 00:55
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MiamiKid posted:Anyone have a battery recommendation? Every thread over at Jeepforum is an argument between whether Optima is good anymore and Sears Diehard Platinum. I've got one set of off-road lights and a CB, not totally convinced I need a 200$ battery for those electrical accessories. I suppose if I ever get a winch, an upgraded battery is critical. Douglas, and Deka both make goddamned awesome batteries. Find a dealer though and make sure its a fresh one. Some of the mom and pop dealers might order twice a year, so your battery could be over 12 months on the shelf. Just get the one with the highest RC number in your group size and you'll be fine with the winch/lights. Its more important that you have an upgraded ALTERNATOR for those than it is the battery.
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Feb 12, 2011 04:24
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People on JF are brand-loyal with extreme prejudice, even if there are better alternatives to whatever part they're masturbating over. And half of them are always looking for the cheapest route anyway, so there's that. I mean I've read guys slobbering all over Chinese winches of all things while saying Warn is overpriced/overrated. The Optima name has taken a hit because they seem to 'die' quickly when really it's just because they get undercharged due to stock alternators not being able to keep up when they're under a heavy load. I think that was just the red tops though, which are strictly starter batteries with high CCA's. Get a yellow or blue top dedicated to deep-cycle. Don't get the /78 variants with the front terminals, they're all but useless for anything but small accessories. I have a Die Hard Platinum in my XJ and the thing's a beast. Great specs and they're made by Odyssey, which is probably the best in the business. They tend to have great warranties as well, if that's a factor of concern for you. Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 04:53 on Feb 12, 2011 |
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Feb 12, 2011 04:48
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Scrubed posted:Depends on the tube fenders... But before installation, when you have to cut the fender, did you cut out the yellow part?
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Feb 12, 2011 08:24
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Philip J Fry posted:
Unfortunately many redtops now are the combo units, which... are.. not suitable if you have a group 78 setup for power. I killed 2 sets in my H1, which uses 2 batteries, and draws 1600CCA on startup. Optima got cheap with the combo unit and only has a thin band of metal that runs from the top posts to the side posts. Put a big draw on it and it'll pop those bands like a fuse. If I'm not mistaken, Optima will not recommend using high power accessories on the side posts on the combo unit red tops like winches. Top posts are fine, the old combo units used to be better at high loads but I don't know what happened. The theory is the drop in quality in batteries is due to the company swapping the factory they were made a few years back. I dunno. Next set is going to be a deep cycle walmart/sears/interstate. I heard those are pretty drat good and are made in the US by Exide or Johnson Controls.
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Feb 12, 2011 20:42
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Car batteries are fun. If it is a flooded cell, it is either made by Johnson Controls, Exide, or East Penn. Check the date to make sure it isn't too old and the label to find one of these manufacturers and you are good. AGMs and Gels are a bit different. The big 3 of batteries are playing a bit of catch up there, I think they've been trying to buy out other makers (JC bought Optima). EnerSys (Odyssy) is pretty big in that market segment. If I was buying an AGM, it would be EnerSys. Really fun fact about AGMs and Gels: they do not like charging at over 14 volts (or less when it's hot), it will kill them. So does fast charging. I buy WalMart because they are cheap, have easy warranties, WalMarts are everywhere, and they are really Exides.
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Feb 12, 2011 21:05
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:I buy WalMart because they are cheap, have easy warranties, WalMarts are everywhere, and they are really Exides. The return/exchange is painless as well. I had to pull teeth with Pepboys to swap out my 2 Optimas.
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Feb 12, 2011 22:41
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Yep, just slap your old battery on the Customer Service counter, go back and grab a new one, then walk out with your new receipt. I don't even use a receipt to exchange, just go by the date on the battery.
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Feb 12, 2011 22:50
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Car batteries are fun. East Penn is Deka. Best battery. 
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Feb 13, 2011 02:46
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After many years of wanting a wrangler I finally pulled the trigger. I bought a dark green 2011 base model and the only options on it were the AC and the +5 gallon tank. I cannot wait to take this thing out in the summer and take the top down and doors off. I had a question regarding that, what kind of side mirrors can I get to put on when I take the doors off? The mirrors are attached to the door and I know I need at least two rear-view mirrors to drive legally so I need to have something mounted on the door. Can I use the one on the door?
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Feb 13, 2011 03:51
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The PO of my Cherokee must have used a gallon of that Bar's Leak stuff in the cooling system before giving up and selling it to me. I fixed the leak [it was a freeze plug, lolol] and have flushed it three times now. It still gets gunked up though. After flushing it my heat works amazing, then slowly tapers off to kind of warm after a few drive cycles. I can hear the heater core gurgle some times. Is there something better than the auto store "super flush" I can add to the water to help break down and flush that garbage out?
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Feb 13, 2011 14:06
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dongsweep posted:After many years of wanting a wrangler I finally pulled the trigger. I bought a dark green 2011 base model and the only options on it were the AC and the +5 gallon tank. I cannot wait to take this thing out in the summer and take the top down and doors off. I had a question regarding that, what kind of side mirrors can I get to put on when I take the doors off? The mirrors are attached to the door and I know I need at least two rear-view mirrors to drive legally so I need to have something mounted on the door. Can I use the one on the door? I use a little baby mirror mounted to the side of the dash. A few companies make mirror relocation brackets, though I'm not particularly fond of how they look.
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Feb 13, 2011 14:34
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ornery owl posted:The PO of my Cherokee must have used a gallon of that Bar's Leak stuff in the cooling system before giving up and selling it to me. I fixed the leak [it was a freeze plug, lolol] and have flushed it three times now. It still gets gunked up though. After flushing it my heat works amazing, then slowly tapers off to kind of warm after a few drive cycles. I can hear the heater core gurgle some times. I'm not sure about Jeeps in specific, but I've had good results with a garden hose. I pulled the return line from the radiator, and just stuck a running garden hose in there. I let the engine idle for about 10 minutes until the water was running clear for a couple minutes. Turn off the engine, drain, and refill with coolant. After "burping" the system I had no issues at all.
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Feb 13, 2011 15:03
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A few days ago the muffler and exhaust broke and fell off my Cherokee.    So I bought a new muffler, cut the tailpipe off the old one and bolted it all together.    It's now more quite than it's ever been in the seven years I've owned the Jeep. I have the tailpipe strapped up a little too close to the car so I've going to go buy a urethane bushing to go onto the original hanger. I also want to put another hanger near the front of the muffler just to be extra safe. As suggested I used Locktite on all the bolts and I'm not driving it until tomorrow morning.
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Feb 14, 2011 00:01
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ornery owl posted:The PO of my Cherokee must have used a gallon of that Bar's Leak stuff in the cooling system before giving up and selling it to me. I fixed the leak [it was a freeze plug, lolol] and have flushed it three times now. It still gets gunked up though. After flushing it my heat works amazing, then slowly tapers off to kind of warm after a few drive cycles. I can hear the heater core gurgle some times. While mine didn't have stopleak poo poo in it, my coolant system on my 99xj was pretty neglected. For me my heatercore was clearly clogged. What I ended up doing was pulling the heater core hoses off of the block, tying them to my open hood and dumped CLR down both ends of those hose and let it sit overnight. Then in the morning blow it out with an air compressor or just blowing on the tubes with your mouth if you don't have access to an air compressor. I had to do this two weekends in a row along with flushing my whole coolant system to get my heat working at acceptable levels. http://www.jelmar.com/CLRbasic.htm
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Feb 14, 2011 00:42
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Have any goons put the Yella Terra roller rockers in their 4.0?
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Feb 14, 2011 01:52
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dongsweep posted:After many years of wanting a wrangler I finally pulled the trigger. I bought a dark green 2011 base model and the only options on it were the AC and the +5 gallon tank. I cannot wait to take this thing out in the summer and take the top down and doors off. I had a question regarding that, what kind of side mirrors can I get to put on when I take the doors off? The mirrors are attached to the door and I know I need at least two rear-view mirrors to drive legally so I need to have something mounted on the door. Can I use the one on the door? I've got these: http://www.quadratec.com/products/13125_102.htm They work great and I keep the brackets on all the time. You can't see out of the passenger side very well if you have the door on though.
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Feb 14, 2011 20:35
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New annoyance (Probably old annoyance but never noticed it before since we don't drive it at night... except this one time in an almost emergency) time. Our '00 XJ's headlights are about as dim as can be. I know it's an often talked about topic but nobody goes into really good detail of the specifics. What needs to be checked to see if it's a fixable issue without redoing the whole harness?
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Feb 14, 2011 21:00
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Faerunner posted:New annoyance (Probably old annoyance but never noticed it before since we don't drive it at night... except this one time in an almost emergency) time. Our '00 XJ's headlights are about as dim as can be. Well headlights just get dimmer and dimmer with age, that is normal and simply replacing them would fix that. It would be around $20-$25 for two decent replacements. If you mean that you already replaced them and they're still dim then I don't know.
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Feb 14, 2011 21:16
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Faerunner posted:New annoyance (Probably old annoyance but never noticed it before since we don't drive it at night... except this one time in an almost emergency) time. Our '00 XJ's headlights are about as dim as can be. well, you could always pull the headlights clean the connectors and grounds. If you don't mind spending a little money H4 conversions are worth it. I have a set of autopal h4 ecodes in mine and they made a HUGE difference and they're only about 40$ on ebay. If you want to go a step further eaautosport makes an aftermarket plug in h4 harness that will power the headlights directly off the battery and uses the stock harness as the trigger. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=906034&highlight=headlight+upgrade
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Feb 14, 2011 21:18
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Rhyno posted:A few days ago the muffler and exhaust broke and fell off my Cherokee.
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Feb 15, 2011 00:55
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tonedef131 posted:Same thing happened to my Comanche. I used a similar solution as you but it eventually wouldn't hold. If that happens to you take it down to exhaust world on coliseum. It's unreal how fast and cheap they do exhaust work, in fact they would probably weld your system you just bolted together there for like $20 and it would be a quieter and more permanent solution. I had a really bad experience with them some years back so I don't go there if I can help it. Really the bolts just need to last til the end of May when I'm ready to buy a new car. Then she becomes a winter vehicle only.
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Feb 15, 2011 01:27
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Rhyno posted:I had a really bad experience with them some years back so I don't go there if I can help it. Really the bolts just need to last til the end of May when I'm ready to buy a new car. Then she becomes a winter vehicle only.
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Feb 15, 2011 02:28
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tonedef131 posted:That's surprising, it's one of the two places in town that I've had such consistently good experiences that I recommend people go there. To be fair it was like 8 years ago. Maybe I'll give them a call and see if they would weld it.
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Feb 15, 2011 06:46
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All right. What the hell is this thing, why is it "ticking" at me, do I need to replace it and is it going to explode?  By the way, it's located along the firewall on the passenger side on my 96 XJ.
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Feb 15, 2011 16:58
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I'm pretty sure i just bought the last low mileage cherokee in existance. 58500 original miles. Its a 96. Carfax came back clean. I love it more than the wrangler JK its replacing.
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Feb 15, 2011 17:43
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That's odd... my 96 XJ had 66k when I got it in January. I hope it's not that someone discovered how to roll back the numbers...
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Feb 15, 2011 18:34
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If you guys both have the 4.0L then it probably went to 999,999 and kept going to whatever number it's showing now.
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Feb 15, 2011 21:56
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brickswereshat posted:All right. What the hell is this thing, why is it "ticking" at me, do I need to replace it and is it going to explode? Mine ticks too, though I am not really sure what it is.
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Feb 15, 2011 22:01
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Sharp_angus posted:If you guys both have the 4.0L then it probably went to 999,999 and kept going to whatever number it's showing now. And if it did, it can likely do it again.
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Feb 15, 2011 22:21
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Faerunner posted:New annoyance (Probably old annoyance but never noticed it before since we don't drive it at night... except this one time in an almost emergency) time. Our '00 XJ's headlights are about as dim as can be. XJ headlight wiring harness uses 18ga poo poo wiring. The common fix for this is to use a relay harness that runs bigger wires directly from the battery to the headlights. It's all plug-n-play. At the same time you should buy some h4 headlight bulbs, and toss the sealed beam lights for an e-code housing. http://www.eautoworks.com/product-eautoworkscom-189849.htm is the harness. Jeepforums should be able to help you find part numbers for an e-code (european lighting standard) h4 housing for the cherokee.
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Feb 15, 2011 22:34
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brickswereshat posted:All right. What the hell is this thing, why is it "ticking" at me, do I need to replace it and is it going to explode? Evap purge solenoid. It's common for it to tick during normal operation but not so loud that you can hear it over everything else. Make sure the mounting bracket isn't bent and pressing it against the firewall, that can amplify the sound inside the cab. Try wedging a piece of soft foam in there to see if that helps any. They're only about $30-$40 to replace but usually they'll throw a CEL before they really start going bad.
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Feb 16, 2011 04:17
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