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 Thanks for the headsup though.
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Feb 12, 2011 19:59
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Dr. Cogwerks posted:If you like the look of those two, buy 'em! Besides those, I recommend these: Now just to figure out how I load these things in the camera and it's time to start having fun with it!
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Feb 12, 2011 20:03
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Cat Army
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Um, help! (not my pic) I have an old Kalimar SR200 sitting around! But honestly, I have no idea what I'm doing. I have a 35mm Canon that I'm really really new with using, and a lot of times I go for auto settings on it because I don't want to screw up the settings and waste film. I'm scared of all the numbers and buttons and levers on this thing! It's super dirty but I do want to play with this. Does anyone have any advice for playing with this thing without wasting tons of film?
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Feb 12, 2011 21:13
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Dr. Cogwerks: How much are the Rolleiflexes?
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Feb 12, 2011 21:19
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Question about spooling (120 film) onto Paterson autoloader: I just spent 30 minutes or more constantly failing to load my film. I got it perfectly aligned into the spiral several times and began loading just fine, but after filling maybe 1-2 full rotations of the spiral, the inner end of the film jumps off and loading simply stops. This is not my first time, I have developed several films successfully already. It seems this particular roll curves too much, somehow. I ended up spooling the film back onto the original roll, inside the backing paper, but reversed so it's bending the opposite way, hoping to make it easier to load later on. Is there any simpler fix for this? Bonus question: Will leaving the tape sticking the film to the backing on the film affect development? (I'm guessing yes, just want it confirmed.) I've always removed it so far, it's just a chore to do. (And I just loaded a different roll in first try. Sigh, bad luck I guess.) Okay so I got the stubborn film loaded after having it rolled in reverse for a while. nielsm fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Feb 12, 2011 |
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Feb 12, 2011 22:28
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Rednik posted:Dr. Cogwerks: I'm not sure. Supposedly there was an advance problem with both of them, but I kinda think she was using them wrong. I'll see what I can find out.
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Feb 12, 2011 22:31
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Dr. Cogwerks posted:Here's the trip report from today's digging. If these are too many images to put in here, let me know and I'll edit this post down. Cool post, thanks for sharing. What state is that store in?
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Feb 13, 2011 00:36
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Dads posted:Cool post, thanks for sharing. What state is that store in? Maine.
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Feb 13, 2011 01:09
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Nannypea posted:I have to stop late night "browsing" on auction sites. I end up make low bids on items and then I win them! Which is both good and bad: Cool to have picked up something inexpensive but I really don't need it or to spend the money. This is exactly how I've ended up with 5 Yashica TLR's in varied condition. It'll cost me about $530 to have Mark Hama CLA them, but then I can turn around and resell them to recoup my expenses. 
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Feb 13, 2011 01:24
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pseudonordic posted:but then I can turn around and resell them to recoup my expenses. My Cakes are LOL posted:Um, help! How about taking a notebook with you whenever you pick up your Canon? Take it off auto, or at least put it in aperture priority (Av) or shutter priority (Tv) rather than Program. Then, write down your settings for every frame you shoot. Leave most of the levers and knobs alone, just concentrate on aperture (f-stop) and shutter speed, and don't worry about taking boring pictures, the point of this exercise is to learn to shoot with your camera. By the time you finish a roll of 24 or 36 exposures, you'll have shot a bunch of different things (still life, people, landscapes) at a bunch of different combinations of aperture and shutter speed. Get the film developed, and compare your notes to the pictures. You'll figure out pretty quickly which are the settings you like the most, and you can go from there. If you totally blow it on every shot, hey, it's one roll of film so you're not out much time / money / effort, and I'm certain that if you mangle your pictures, you'll very easily be able to tell *how* you mangled them, and can compensate easily on the next roll of film. Post the pictures (the really good, the really bad, the confusing) here (or in the SAD or PAD threads) and ask lots of questions. That will let the people who are better at this than I provide some input, too. Repeat as necessary for the Kalimar, after you clean it.
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Feb 13, 2011 03:21
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I'll post this here since it seems most relevant: http://leicarumors.com/2011/02/10/voigtlander-announces-new-nokton-1235mm-and-heliar-classic-1875mm-lenses.aspx/  Click here for the full 799x600 image. New version of the 35mm f/1.2 Nokton has been announced by Cosina (the old one had the price bumped a bit and was discontinued not too long ago). It will be slightly smaller/thinner than the old one and focus to .5m, although the optical formula hasn't been tinkered with much. Even though it's likely going to be pricier than the first version, it's still reassuring to see Cosina is still making new 35mm rangefinder lenses. God, it's been a while since I checked RFF and I remember why I don't post there anymore. Pages of whinging over the (unannounced) price, discussing hypothetical bokeh, how the lens designers must have overlooked the fact a chrome filter ring would certainly cause flare issues, etc. What I'm trying to say is: I love you, Dorkroom. 
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Feb 13, 2011 03:30
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ExecuDork posted:I bet this is exactly what you were muttering to yourself every time you clicked "buy". If you succeed at this, please let the rest of us poor deluded fools know. I'm in good with a local camera shop. They'll let me sell them on consignment with a minimal percentage going toward them. I have 2 x Yashica C, 1 x Yashica D, and 2 x Yashica LM. The camera guys think they can get me $250 for each Yashica LM since they'd have the coupled light meter, be CLA'd and have a 6 month warranty from Mark Hama. But first I have to sink $500 into all of them.  Cross posted these in the medium format thread as well Mamiya M645 w/ 120 Portra 400NC  M645_Portra400NC_001 by pseudonordic, on Flickr  M645_Portra400NC_003 by pseudonordic, on Flickr  M645_Portra400NC_010 by pseudonordic, on Flickr  M645_Portra400NC_005 by pseudonordic, on Flickr pseudonordic fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Feb 13, 2011 |
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Feb 13, 2011 03:44
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Turns out I can put my 2X teleconverter on my 35mm 2.0 to make a 70mm almost macro lens. So I've been able to out resolve the film on all the old negative I have. I haven't tried any of the 35mm stuff yet though. It seems to me my great grandmother used cheap film and couldn't focus for poo poo half the time. Anyway, my mother will be happy to see this stuff.  2011-47 by Tom Rintjema, on Flickr  2011-44 by Tom Rintjema, on Flickr  2011-41 by Tom Rintjema, on Flickr  2011-42 by Tom Rintjema, on Flickr Looking good in blue there buddy!
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Feb 13, 2011 05:45
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My Cakes are LOL posted:Um, help! Kalimar? Huh, that looks extremely similar to my Zenit-B. Looks like you've got a rebranded Soviet-made Zenit-E. Quality control can be questionable with Soviet cameras, but I've really enjoyed using my own Zenit. The Helios 44-2 lens can be fairly good in the right conditions too. Here's a picture I took through mine (mounted on my dSLR):  First Sunrise of 2011 by epomorski, on Flickr 100% crop of the wind turbines on the far island:  Not bad for a lens that's worth like ten bucks. Since it's a preset lens, the camera does not stop it down for you. This site has the manual for that camera: http://www.aisling.net/photog/ze1.htm Or, here's a rough guide on how to use the thing: 1) Cock the shutter, make sure you don't let the lever slam back though. Guide it back with slight resistance. 2) Gently pull the shutter speed dial up, turn it to whatever speed you need for the shot, then let the dial drop down when you feel it over the right spot. 3) Turn the aperture ring on the lens to the aperture that you need for the lighting conditions.* This ring will have a bunch of numbers on it like "16, 8, 5.6, 4, 2.8, 2" and it should click onto each setting, I think. 4) There's another ring next to that too. Turn it one direction and the aperture will open fully, turn it the other way and it'll close to whatever you've set in step 3. Turn this fully open, look in the front of the lens and you'll see it moving. 5) Compose your shot through the now-bright scene 6) Once you're happy with the composition, turn that preset ring the other way. You'll see the viewfinder get a lot darker. 7) take that dang picture with an oddly satisfying SCHWOOP! sound. zenits sound weird as hell Your version does have a light meter, but if it's dead, you can use the Sunny Sixteen rule for exposure. Assuming that you're outside in good light, set your shutter speed should to 1 divided by your film speed. 200 ISO film would be 1/200th of a second (or whatever is close). 400 ISO would be ~1/400th, etc. etc. Most film boxes contain little bits of paper that describe some common speeds and aperture settings for basic lighting conditions too. Here's an example: quote:SUNNY 16 CHART And so on. I know this sounds like a lot of steps, but once you're used to it, it only takes a couple seconds. Go get a couple of cheap rolls of film and try it! Don't worry about wrecking the first roll or two, drug store film isn't precious and $5 worth of mistakes will teach you quite a bit. Dr. Cogwerks fucked around with this message at 09:25 on Feb 13, 2011 |
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Feb 13, 2011 06:50
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Here's a printable sunny 16 chart I found on RFF a while back. It's pretty comprehensive for typically found lighting conditions: Side One Side Two
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Feb 13, 2011 12:56
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Dr. Cogwerks posted:Not bad for a lens that's worth like ten bucks. Thanks so so much, this is really helpful. It's so hard to understand what the numbers on this thing correspond to. I'm studying the manual and I'll test some shots out soon! Thanks again to you and Execudork, this is really great.
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Feb 13, 2011 14:59
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My Cakes are LOL posted:Thanks so so much, this is really helpful. It's so hard to understand what the numbers on this thing correspond to. I'm studying the manual and I'll test some shots out soon! Thanks again to you and Execudork, this is really great. What the numbers all mean: On the top little spinning dial, you have your shutter speeds as fractions of a second. If I remember correctly, they'll be 1/500, 1/250, 1/100, 1/50, 1/25, 1/10, and bulb. Might be a few more than this. Anything faster than 1/50th should be enough for handheld shots, slower and you'll need a tripod. Dark places require longer exposures. On the lens barrel, you'll have a whole bunch of numbers. The big thick focus ring has distances on it, measured in meters. Look for a lot of numbers and an infinity symbol. Near the front of the lens you'll find your aperture sizes. f/2 means that the lens is wide open, every number above that is letting in a smaller fraction of light. This also makes the lens sharper, so it's a useful tradeoff.
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Feb 13, 2011 15:46
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I always buy Ilfod film since that's what we used in school. Last week I shot a roll of Rollei Super Pan, and it's really quite stunning. What are y'alls thoughts on Rollei film?
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Feb 13, 2011 22:21
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wanderlost posted:I always buy Ilfod film since that's what we used in school. Last week I shot a roll of Rollei Super Pan, and it's really quite stunning. What are y'alls thoughts on Rollei film? I've played with the Ortho 25, I really love that film, no grain at all and a very unique look to it. I'm still working through my first few rolls of Retro 100 at box speed, but I have tried pushing it 400 and was a little disappointed with the grain and heavy contrast.
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Feb 13, 2011 23:54
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So I'm wondering, what's the best way to get slide film done? That's the only thing stopping me from doing it. I don't shoot much color as it is because it sucks to be kinda limited in how I can get it done. I would love to shoot more color but... I don't really have many other options/knowledge on where/how to do C41 other than lovely drug store runs I used for the test rolls. I'm kinda interested in the E6 stuff and have no clue where/what to do in that department. I'm still starting out so pardon the ignorance of film. I'm too poor for digital. It takes every single ounce of strength daily to not dip into what I'm saving for and buy a loving 50D or something.
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Feb 14, 2011 03:56
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So I was out today finishing up a roll of Portra 160VC in my Bronica. Having just shot a particularly pretty landscape, I went to pick up my camera from inside my car by the back - and my thumb and forefinger just happened to pinch the back release, causing the film back to spring open and ruin at least 3 of the 12 shots on the roll. Here's hoping the stuff at the beginning/end of the roll didn't get screwed too - only time will tell.
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Feb 14, 2011 04:25
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My Cakes are LOL posted:Um, help! this is a zenit e *whhatt?*
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Feb 14, 2011 07:20
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HEY GUYS I have a question about tanks n' reels. I've been having an incredibly hard time loading my 120 onto steel reels in my photography class. I'm using a changing bag, and have loaded it twice; the second time I crimped it really badly and ruined one photo. Do you guys find plastic reels any easier to load medium format into? I'm thinking of getting a Rokunar plastic tank if it's easier. Also, are there any plastic tanks that can hold two 120 reels?
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Feb 14, 2011 18:13
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atomicthumbs posted:HEY GUYS I have a question about tanks n' reels. I've never tried the plastic reels for 120, but yeah, much more fiddly than 35mm. What I try to do is make a really sharp bend right after the clip, so that I know the film is running directly down to the wires that are the beginning of the takeup. Otherwise you risk getting the edges in a higher rung of the reel and it'll start binding.
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Feb 14, 2011 18:19
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god loving DAMMIT I was looking up reels on APUG and there was a picture and I've been loading the loving things backwards. I was trying to hold the large end of the clip down with my thumb and stick it under the small end. I'm surprised it worked as well as it did No wonder my thumb was sore
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Feb 14, 2011 18:20
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guidoanselmi posted:this is a zenit e *whhatt?* Rebranding. As I understand it, there used to be a lot of restrictions about importing Communist-made goods into some of the major Western markets, but manufacturers could get around that pretty easily. Kalimar could import Zenits to Japan and then re-export them. I've got a Hanimex Praktica too. Prakticas were made in East Germany, Hanimex imported them to Australia and slapped a Hanimex badge on them. Dr. Cogwerks fucked around with this message at 19:56 on Feb 14, 2011 |
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Feb 14, 2011 19:53
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atomicthumbs posted:
All I have used is the plastic reels and really the only hang up if you will is getting both sides through the ball bearing gates and after that you can walk it onto the reel(watch a you tube video of this, I can't describe it in 500 words or less.) Yes there are plastic tanks holding 2 rolls of 120.
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Feb 15, 2011 03:35
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Loading 120 on plastic reels is a walk in the park as long as they're dry. I've never been able to figure out how to load 35 or 120 onto metal reels. e: I've heard of people loading two rolls of 120 on a single reel.
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Feb 15, 2011 06:25
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Reichstag posted:I've heard of people loading two rolls of 120 on a single reel. I've never tried this with plastic tanks, but it is fairly easy to load two rolls of 120 back to back on stainless reels. Cuts my time developing film in half
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Feb 15, 2011 08:25
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I'm back to that camera shop, I'm starting a big spreadsheet of all the stuff I find and test. Will post it here later. Checked on the price for the Rolleiflexes, she's thinking of a starting price around $350/ea as-is. edit: oh god there is so much dust if i die of allergies here, avenge me Dr. Cogwerks fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Feb 16, 2011 |
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Feb 15, 2011 18:02
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I have a quick question. I bought an Olympus 35 EC 2 the other day. Since the original batteries can't be bought anymore, I bought 2 LR-44 batteries and stuffed the other side of the battery compartment with foil, works like a charm! What I was wondering though, is if I am shooting ISO 400 film, what should I set the ISO as on the camera? Sevn fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Feb 16, 2011 |
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Feb 16, 2011 20:30
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Tempest815 posted:So I'm wondering, what's the best way to get slide film done? That's the only thing stopping me from doing it. I don't shoot much color as it is because it sucks to be kinda limited in how I can get it done. I would love to shoot more color but... I don't really have many other options/knowledge on where/how to do C41 other than lovely drug store runs I used for the test rolls.
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Feb 16, 2011 20:56
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Sevn posted:What I was wondering though, is if I am shooting ISO 400 film, what should I set the ISO as on the camera? Unless you plan on pushing or pulling the film speed, set the camera or light meter to the film's rated speed. The ISO/ASA speed setting might be marked as 4'' instead of 400, at least it is on an older Agfa I have.
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Feb 16, 2011 22:33
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nielsm posted:Unless you plan on pushing or pulling the film speed, set the camera or light meter to the film's rated speed. The ISO/ASA speed setting might be marked as 4'' instead of 400, at least it is on an older Agfa I have. Or is he asking if he has to compensate on the ISO dial for the different voltage of the batteries?
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Feb 17, 2011 02:44
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Sevn posted:I have a quick question. I bought an Olympus 35 EC 2 the other day. Since the original batteries can't be bought anymore, I bought 2 LR-44 batteries and stuffed the other side of the battery compartment with foil, works like a charm! Get some here http://www.amazon.com/Sony-Pr675-D6A-PR675-Battery-Multipack/dp/B0009U7C6G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1297892577&sr=8-2 Or get a big pack since they only last a week or two once opened. http://www.amazon.com/Lenmar-Hza675-60-Premium-Hearing-Batteries/dp/B0048LXM0M/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1297892746&sr=8-17
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Feb 17, 2011 02:53
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I got a drat near perfect Canon FD 35mm 3.5 for 30bux today. Not the greatest deal, but a new toy!
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Feb 17, 2011 04:35
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Hmm, I wasn't aware of how long fiber paper has to be washed. I only washed for about a half hour and the lab's closed for the night. Can I throw them back in the washer tomorrow or is the damage done once it's dry?
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Feb 17, 2011 04:52
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Paul MaudDib posted:Hmm, I wasn't aware of how long fiber paper has to be washed. I only washed for about a half hour and the lab's closed for the night. Can I throw them back in the washer tomorrow or is the damage done once it's dry? The sign above the wash bath in my school's darkroom says that you have to wash fiber prints for five minutes. Edit: Does anyone know of a lab that does bleach bypass? Have any of you had it done? atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 06:00 on Feb 17, 2011 |
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Feb 17, 2011 05:24
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atomicthumbs posted:The sign above the wash bath in my school's darkroom says that you have to wash fiber prints for five minutes. Ilford says to wash for an hour, and that seems to be the recommendation on the internet as well. I, too, believed the signs suggesting moderate wash times, but it really does appear to be important to wash for a long time, especially if you're going to tone. I'll give washing them another try, it's probably got enough of the fixer out that it won't stain (I did neutralizer for 2 mins).
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Feb 17, 2011 06:09
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You should do 5-10 minutes in perma wash, followed by 15 minutes in a running water wash. I think the hour washing number refers to no perma wash.
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Feb 17, 2011 06:30
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