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The Bob Ross stuff was the one I tried out, my local place didn't have any of the liquitex in stock at the time, I'm no fan of gesso for undercoating minis but it worked well on the terrain I used it on. (Black that is..)
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Feb 17, 2011 11:53
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Do you guys water down or mix the GW/P3 washes with a medium before you use them? If so, how much?
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Feb 17, 2011 14:20
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GW washes are designed to be used straight out of the pot.
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Feb 17, 2011 15:20
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95% of the time I use washes straight out of the pot. Once in a while when I don't want to shade quite so heavily I will water them down slightly, but it is literally just dipping the brush in wash, then in clean water, before applying.
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Feb 17, 2011 15:29
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Anybody have a good source on brown/grey stuff? All that I've been able to find on the web is repackaged brown stuff from GF9, and it's $10 for a tiny amount. I buy my green stuff in long rolls for pretty cheap, I imagine that there must be something similar out there for brown stuff. The greenstuff bitz I've cast via InstaMold have come out great, but they don't clean up very well thanks to greenstuff still being flexible when it dries. It's like trying to file lines off of vending machine capsule toys. I've been recommended brown stuff, as it dries much harder; just can't source it.
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Feb 17, 2011 16:34
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Yuu could try milliput, its similar to brownstuff and the exact opposite of green stuff. It is waterbased though, so be careful. These guys have pretty much everything: http://store.miniwargaming.com/category/modeling-putty/ Dont know if they are any good though, as im in Australia
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Feb 17, 2011 17:03
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Rabbi posted:Do you guys water down or mix the GW/P3 washes with a medium before you use them? If so, how much? p3 washes HAVE to be thinned, they are super pigmented
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Feb 17, 2011 17:09
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MasterSlowPoke posted:I really wish there was a BFG/Firestorm Armada scene here because I really want to do this at some point: You can see in the reflection he isnt using a spraymask. Sheesh. Awesome stuff though
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Feb 17, 2011 17:13
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PaintVagrant posted:p3 washes HAVE to be thinned, they are super pigmented
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Feb 17, 2011 17:30
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Plotterboy posted:Yuu could try milliput, its similar to brownstuff and the exact opposite of green stuff. It is waterbased though, so be careful. prepare to get messy, I don't know how anyone uses that stuff without turning their whole painting / modelling area into a white crappy mess. Mind you it's been 15 years since I last used any, it might have just been the over excited teen in me making the mess 
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Feb 17, 2011 17:40
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Tadhg posted:Anybody have a good source on brown/grey stuff? All that I've been able to find on the web is repackaged brown stuff from GF9, and it's $10 for a tiny amount. I buy my green stuff in long rolls for pretty cheap, I imagine that there must be something similar out there for brown stuff. Warstore sells it for $6 for 4" - not a great price, but sounds better than what you are paying now? This seems to be the manufacturer, and none of their registered distributors show a better deal. I guess you could try contacting them and see if they will sell you a shitload directly? There might also be a good similar product with a different name, these two-part epoxies are actually pretty common for repair stuff.
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Feb 17, 2011 17:52
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Their retailer's page has Brookhurst Hobbies selling it $5 for 4", which is at least half as much as GF9 is repackaging it for. Brookhurst is semi-local to me, too, and I'm overdue for a visit anyway. Thanks, Ashcans. As for the Milliput suggestions- never actually worked with it. What's it like, and how hard does it dry?
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Feb 17, 2011 18:06
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Tadhg posted:Anybody have a good source on brown/grey stuff? All that I've been able to find on the web is repackaged brown stuff from GF9, and it's $10 for a tiny amount. I buy my green stuff in long rolls for pretty cheap, I imagine that there must be something similar out there for brown stuff. I think you would be best ditching both materials all together. I used Easycast, which is a two part polyurethane resin that starts setting almost instantly. I used it for basic one part and two part molds. When doing a two part mould, simply spray the mould with some release agent, pour in the resin in both sides of the mould and have a toothpick on hand to get rid of air bubbles. When you notice the liquid starting to become white and cloudy (this means it is setting) quickly put the two pieces together. It is a little messy, but very simple. It takes about 10 minutes to dry too so you get quicker production time as well. Here is where I buy the product in Australia, you would be able to find similar products wherever you are I would imagine. I reckon it owuld work out cheaper than GS or BS http://www.amcsupplies.com.au/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=19_495_273 Milliput dries rock hard and is easily sanded, and is not flexible at all, it is also water soluble. It is totally different to work with than greenstuff. I am not sure how it owuld preform in moulding. Big Willy Style fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Feb 17, 2011 |
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Feb 17, 2011 18:15
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I've worked plenty with resin, and am just getting tired of it. The appeal of InstaMold + Greenstuff is that it's an incredibly no fuss way quickly make a copy of bit. Heat instamold, press bit, let cool, knead pea-sized lump of greenstuff, press in greenstuff, wait to harden. Voila. I recognize that resin is a superior material to cast with; I'm going for convenience more than anything for quick bits. Tadhg fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Feb 20, 2011 |
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Feb 17, 2011 18:26
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Tadhg posted:I've worked plenty with resin, and am just getting tired of it. The appeal of InstaMold + Greenstuff is that it's an incredibly no fuss way quickly make a copy of bit. I ordered insamold and some putty from CMON but it hasn't come in yet. I've been brainstorming what poo poo I should cast to make the most out of it.
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Feb 17, 2011 18:59
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I'm sick of loving up my brushes. What's a good non-GW alternative for Bleached Bone? Specifically the old rotting-flesh(snakebite leather? don't remember how i did this now)->Bleached Bone->Skull white easy skeleton combo.
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Feb 17, 2011 19:19
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P3 Menoth white base is nice, but is a bit darker than bleached bone I think. p3 also make menoth white highlight which is a really nice slightly off white. Coat D'Arms make an equivalent colour that is good as well, but I can't remember the name of it. (The company that make P3 paints makes Coat D'Arms as well as Foundry paints.)
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Feb 17, 2011 19:43
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Jonny Nox posted:I'm sick of loving up my brushes. I use the Vallejo Bone White as a replacement for Bleached Bone, I think it's great. Not sure what the old combination you are talking about was, though; I would personally try Khaki -> Bone White -> Dead White; it will give you a pretty dried out and aged look. Dead Flesh is their equivalent of Rotting Flesh, it's pale for with a greenish tint - might be good if you want to give make them look like they're at the end of decomposing. I would maybe use Dead Flesh for Vampire Counts, and Khaki for Tomb Kings.
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Feb 17, 2011 20:21
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The way I do bone is Khemri Brown or Graveyard Earth (Alternately start from khaki) or something. Wash with Devlan mud. Highlight with Bleached Bone. Spot highlight with white.
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Feb 17, 2011 20:28
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So I'm doing some greenstuff modeling, and I've got a question about curing. How long does it really take? And how solid should I expect it to get? I've got some things that are really thin strips, like for cloth, dangling away from anything solid behind it. Should I pretty well always expect them to be a little bit flexible, or will they get completely dry and brittle at some point?
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Feb 17, 2011 20:47
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^^^^^^^^^^^ Green stuff takes about 6-8 hours to set and 24 hours to cure. Thinner sections take longer to both set and cure, and will remain partially flexible forever. Tadhg posted:Anybody have a good source on brown/grey stuff? CMON has both of these products available on their website. If you do end up going with Milliput (which as described, is a lot more like clay than sculpting epoxy), it does dry rock hard but is perfectly easy to mill, sand, so forth (unlike dried clay). It's not particularly brittle, but I would still be careful. That instamold stuff doesn't stick to anything, right? Maybe try some JB Weld: that poo poo dries like loving steel. I'd test it first though: when someone says "doesn't stick to anything" it's usually a lie of omission or they simply haven't tried everything sticky in the world.
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Feb 17, 2011 21:29
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JD weld is an interesting idea. My experience with it is that it has a terrible grip on plastic, but I have no idea how it could interact with the instamold stuff. JB weld tends to set to a very slick, glossy finish which might not be ideal, but it would make for killer tough parts.
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Feb 17, 2011 21:48
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Thanks for the advice guys. I'll take a look at some of that stuff. I wish I remembered my old bone recipe because it looked badass and could build up nice depth of color without washes (because we didn't have those back then) Does anyone know why GW whites turn into glossy glue after a couple months? I'm guessing the kind of pigment used Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Feb 17, 2011 |
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Feb 17, 2011 23:11
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Finished painting my Fellcaller today, he's not the greatest paintjob in the world, but i'm quite happy with him, he's the first time that i feel that shading and highlighting has really come together for me and produced a minuature that i'm really proud to have produced. Now heres a poorly lit and angled photo that makes most of what i'm talking about impossible to distinguish 
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Feb 18, 2011 06:17
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So my  GIRLFRIEND just got me a cheap harbor freight airbrush for my birthday. If I recall correctly some enterprising goon made a airbrush painting platform/box/light/fan contraption a while back. Does anyone have the pictures or a step by step for making one of my own?
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Feb 18, 2011 20:21
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Fix posted:So I'm doing some greenstuff modeling, and I've got a question about curing. How long does it really take? And how solid should I expect it to get? I've got some things that are really thin strips, like for cloth, dangling away from anything solid behind it. Should I pretty well always expect them to be a little bit flexible, or will they get completely dry and brittle at some point? As Sushi said, it will always be a bit flexible. You can adjust this a bit by changing the ratio of yellow to blue, more blue will make it set/cure a bit harder and faster. Cure times will vary a bit with temperature too, stick it under a hot lamp in a box to speed things up a bit if you don't want to wait.
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Feb 19, 2011 01:23
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Hey, Sole.Sushi- whatever happened with your scenic base creation scheme? Was just thinking about your puke marine diorama, and remembered something about you trying your hand at making neat bases.
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Feb 19, 2011 08:56
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Tadhg posted:Hey, Sole.Sushi- whatever happened with your scenic base creation scheme? Was just thinking about your puke marine diorama, and remembered something about you trying your hand at making neat bases. That reminds me, I was wondering about his road idea. How's that coming along?
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Feb 19, 2011 09:20
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Yeah, it's still working: I kind of got pissed off at the curved section so it killed my motivation to finish, but it's nearly done. Bases are ready to be cast, but they won't be cast until I finish the road sections in order to save money on latex.
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Feb 19, 2011 09:36
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Oh god I was on auto pilot yesterday and did my base in goblin green, for plaugebearers..........it was like I was 14 all over again. I really do like the idea of using the base to highlight a color you use throughout your army though, the purple bases couple of pages back really did look nifty.
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Feb 19, 2011 12:40
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Tadhg posted:As for the Milliput suggestions- never actually worked with it. What's it like, and how hard does it dry? Everyone's already covered how it's probably not suitable for what you want but I'd add that it's awesome for filling large gaps that need to be perfectly flat. Very easy to get a smooth surface out of and a lot cheaper than the equivalent amount of green/brown stuff.
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Feb 19, 2011 16:49
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gently caress Grey Knights.           
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Feb 19, 2011 16:53
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Those are some good lookin' orks. What's the next addition planned?
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Feb 19, 2011 19:57
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Tadhg posted:Those are some good lookin' orks. What's the next addition planned? Well, if anyone is going to push ork-shaped plastic crack, it's you.
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Feb 19, 2011 20:09
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Tadhg posted:Those are some good lookin' orks. What's the next addition planned? Dread and Kanz. The only things missing really.
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Feb 19, 2011 20:21
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Buffalo squeeze posted:Dread and Kanz. The only things missing really. Kanz are awesome; I hope to have this year full of stompy walking death myself. Sole.Sushi posted:Yeah, it's still working: I kind of got pissed off at the curved section so it killed my motivation to finish, but it's nearly done. Bases are ready to be cast, but they won't be cast until I finish the road sections in order to save money on latex. Understandable. I seriously hate working with resin, and am glad to have found an alternative for bitz casting. I'm not above buying resin pieces from other people, though.  Eager to see how things turn out.
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Feb 19, 2011 21:33
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Tadhg posted:
Which is?
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Feb 19, 2011 23:16
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Indolent Bastard posted:Which is? I'm guessing that instant mold stuff with Green Stuff. And Buffalosqueeze, those are some really nice looking Orks. I like the multiple clans.
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Feb 19, 2011 23:21
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Tadhg posted:Understandable. I seriously hate working with resin, and am glad to have found an alternative for bitz casting. Assembly for the curved section is complete, just needs to be finalized (sealed, sanded, etc.), working on the last two sections right now in between layers of airbrushing silver paint.
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Feb 20, 2011 00:03
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Indolent Bastard posted:Which is? SRM posted:instant mold stuff with Green Stuff. This. Mixing more blue than yellow makes the product a little firmer. I'm going to try to hit the hobby store for some Brown Stuff in the hopes of making the bitz a little easier to clean mold lines from, but if I had to stick with just greenstuff I'd still be ok. The plan is to go into full on production for bits my guard, as Catachan boxes are woefully underoptioned. It's seriously been awesome, being able to crank out needed greebles on demand. I'm going to give this a try with thin sheets of greenstuff for metal scrap siding when I do more ork vehicles, too. Tadhg fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Feb 20, 2011 |
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Feb 20, 2011 00:32
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