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It could also be gunk in the shift selector mechanism. But you'd have to pull off the side cover to take a look at that. Do you have any mechanic friends in the area who'd be able to ride it and maybe see what's going on? Also, you might just have gunked up clutch plates. You can remove the clutch cover without draining the oil, I'd pull the cover, pull the clutch springs, and see if the plates are sticking together or there's something odd there. Have you changed the oil recently?
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Jan 18, 2011 00:58
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Oil changed, side plate removed and de-gunked (little to none on shifting mechanism), no effect on problem. I'm an aircraft maintenance guy so I can figure out whatever I need to with a service manual; unfortunately the Suzuki one seems to be more of 'these are the steps to disassembly' than troubleshooting or theory of operation. I have also been repeatedly disappointed by car and motorcycle mechanics and their unwillingness to correctly diagnose anything so I do as much of my own work as possible. Because of this my meager moto maintenance skills are actually above any of my rider friends'. I haven't pulled the clutch cover on this bike so I guess I'll give that a try this week. Thanks.
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Jan 18, 2011 06:36
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Ahh, ok. Sorry about that  If it's not something with the clutch plates and it's consistency missing shifts between 2-3, then it's either the shift selector, or the shift forks. How many miles on the bike? Also, yeah, diagnosing the problem is sort of a lost art these days. Most of the time parts just get thrown at a problem 
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Jan 18, 2011 07:11
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Only 2500 miles It's an 06, but I bought it with 1600 miles on it less than a year ago. After tires/springs/shock/tail tidy it was perfect until it sat unused for a little while. I think the bikes are getting jealous that I have been playing so much Gran Turismo lately.
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Jan 18, 2011 07:46
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:Only 2500 miles I've forgotten where the shift selector mechanism is on the SV...can you access the ratchet and pawl setup from under the side cover? Sometimes you'll get grit or buildup in the place where the pawl sits and that'll cause missed shifts in one gear only. That's such low mileage I have a hard time believing there's a internal part failure already. You'd be the first I've heard of.
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Jan 18, 2011 16:44
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Z3n posted:I've forgotten where the shift selector mechanism is on the SV...can you access the ratchet and pawl setup from under the side cover? Sometimes you'll get grit or buildup in the place where the pawl sits and that'll cause missed shifts in one gear only.  Reading this diagnostic as it happens is better than
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Jan 18, 2011 17:41
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Alrighty let's take a look at what we have here. The overall situation, side cover removed:  And here we can see that there is nothing externally damaged, loose, or even adjustable to the shift linkage inboard of the control arm:  The linkage is tight, the control arm is not moving on the end of the shift shaft, the clip isn't loose. Here is a link to a video showing proper operation of the recently adjusted clutch mechanism and cable. I focus on a curious wiggle the shaft end has within the first few mm of handle movement, but I have to imagine that if this were the problem it would affect all gears all the time not one gear sometimes so I'm not worried about it. Next step is to tear the clutch cover off and look at the springs, but I realized I don't have a center stand for a street bike yet so I need to do some research to see whether being tipped over on the side stand will dump oil everywhere. At least orange muddy still loves me: 
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Jan 19, 2011 04:32
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:Alrighty let's take a look at what we have here. The little wiggle is normal. You can pull the clutch cover off with it on the sidestand and it shouldn't drip any oil. Pulling off the full cover might cause it to drip a small amount out, but it won't dump all of it's oil on the ground.
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Jan 19, 2011 05:31
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Z3n posted:The little wiggle is normal. Okay I just need to check before I go buy coolant to do this but you know the 2nd gen clutch cover and engine cover are the same piece right? Removing the clutch cover will crack open the water pump circuit and whatever sump the oil sight glass is looking into. I could see the oil level staying on the left side of the engine far enough that it wouldn't come out, but it seems like I'll definitely need to drain/fill the coolant. Additionally, after looking through the manual, it seems like the clutch springs will be accessible with the cover off, but the clutch will have to be removed in order to see the inner end of the shift lever. It keeps piling up. I guess I'll have to replace the stock seat now, as well, WHAT WITH ALL THE rear end PAIN.
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Jan 20, 2011 04:28
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:Okay I just need to check before I go buy coolant to do this but you know the 2nd gen clutch cover and engine cover are the same piece right? Removing the clutch cover will crack open the water pump circuit and whatever sump the oil sight glass is looking into. I had forgotten they changed the design of the sidecover between gen one and gen 2 The oil should still be fine without draining it though. You might be able to slip around the side of the basket and install a new shift spring if that's what broke, otherwise, you might end up having to pull the clutch basket. If you have an impact wrench (a plug in electric will work fine) you can pull the clutch basket off by using vicegrips around one of the steel clutch plates, jammed through the side of the clutch basket to avoid having to buy the specialty tool, or welding an arm to a clutch plate. I'm really curious about what you discover when you get into the bike. It's difficult to diagnose stuff without having the bike in front of you
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Jan 20, 2011 06:27
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Well the engine/clutch cover is off. You definitely have to drain the coolant first on a gen 2 as it opens the water pump (I did this). You also definitely will need some oil for the project as about 50-75% of it pours out as soon as the cover comes off (I bought some). You also definitely will need a new cover gasket as the old one will be half fused to the cover side and half fused to the engine side and rip into many pieces when you separate the cover (I didn't buy one ahead of time )I can see the star/pawl mechanism behind the basket and there looks like there is absolutely nothing wrong with it. all the springs are where they should be, and engaged properly. I guess I'll try pulling the clutch springs tomorrow as I've made enough messes tonight! Also I like how my bike looks like a stuck transformer with the tank propped up and the engine cover hanging off so it will be nice to let that sit for a day.
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Jan 21, 2011 04:37
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My first and second bike were both SV650 first generation, first one the s model and second standard. Great bikes. I have a BMW r1100s and a Honda Interceptor since. While I liked the BMW more, for the money the SV is still king. Speaking of, if anyone needs parts I still have my first wreaked SV taking up room in my shed and back yard.
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Jan 21, 2011 04:41
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:Well the engine/clutch cover is off. You definitely have to drain the coolant first on a gen 2 as it opens the water pump (I did this). drat, i guess there are more differences between the Gen 1 and Gen 2 than I initially thought. I'd shift it between 2 and 3 until it malfunctions, that might give you some clues as to what's not engaging properly. I've seen tiny pieces of grit that just ended up in the right spot to jam up the shifter pawls, so they look clean and fine but it's not until you shift it and see that they're not engaging properly that you can figure out what needs to be cleaned or blown out with compressed air.
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Jan 21, 2011 04:55
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Should the roller bearing at the end of the gearshift cam stopper (spring loaded arm resting against the star) always come to rest inside one of the "notches" of the star? Employing a headlamp, a telescoping inspection mirror, and a delicate forward-backward rocking motion to enable power-off gear shifting with an open engine sump actively dumping oil out of the side of the bike, I was able to hit one 2-3 shift that felt like the problem occured. When I looked at shifting mechanism, the roller bearing at the end of the gearshaft cam stopper had come to rest on a point of the star and not in one of the notches or valleys of the star. I tried several more shifts and was never able to find another position where that roller was resting on the point.
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Jan 21, 2011 05:31
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It's supposed to end up in the valleys, not on the peak. You might have gotten a bad shift star, as the 05s + should have had the better shift star in them. Check this thread out, it has some decent pics of the older shift star vs. the new, plus install instructions: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=189382 Is there any obvious wear or defects on the shift star? If you can get it to catch on a peak, there is some problem with either the shift star or the catching mechanism. I'd pull it off and see if there's any odd wear in the peak between 2 and 3 that are causing it to catch. Out of curiosity, is your shift arm adjusted so it's being actuated by the shift rod at as close to a 90 degree angle as possible? And my apologies on the oil. I guess because I'd pulled the clutch cover only so many times, I didn't think that you'd have to drain the oil.
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Jan 21, 2011 06:17
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Well all right then, the exploratory surgery has found something. This weekend I'll rip that fucker apart and inspect. Don't sweat the oil thing man, I appreciate the help. Every time I dump fluids in the garage it validates the hellacious effort I put into laying down epoxy coating on the floor and I get to feel all 
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Jan 21, 2011 06:46
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:Well all right then, the exploratory surgery has found something. This weekend I'll rip that fucker apart and inspect. God I just realized that my last post is riddled with grammatical errors. I'm blaming it on being sick. Does your shift star look like the old one or the new one? It'd be super weird if you got one of the old ones in your 06, but poo poo happens. I'd love to have an epoxy coated floor but I'm never going to own a house as long as I live in CA. 
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Jan 21, 2011 07:19
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Okay I found a Yamaha dealer with a gasket cutting machine so they hooked me up with a perfect replacement side cover gasket for $15. Now we dig a little deeper:  Removed as many of the shifter components as I could, inside and outside. I removed the clutch springs (all perfect) and friction/steel plates (all about as new as they should look). I have some aluminum stock to make the clutch basket holdytool but I don't have a socket that fits over the big nut as precisely as I'd like with that bent washer in the way. So, looking around the clutch basket to our shift mechanism components:  It all looks completely perfect. I removed the gearshift shaft assembly and the gearshift cam plate. Then I promptly dropped the cam plate/roller bearing down into the crank case  Luckily it came out with a small enough magnetic pickup tool, and as far as I can tell I have accounted for associated hardware.None of these parts are damaged or excessively dirty in any way. [edit]All of my shift parts match the 'new style' 05+ that they are supposed to. I can see up into the valley, peak, valley on the star for the 2-3 shift and it's all fine. The springs are like new, everything shows absolutely no external signs of wear. I'm not sure it's worth the trouble to remove the clutch basket and further disassemble the mechanism because unless any of you guys have any insight that I'm not seeing, it seems like the problem just doesn't exist here. MOTOBOTS ASSEMBLE!  Oh yea I wanted to give a shout out to finger ratchets. I had no idea these little miracles existed until a couple of months ago and I've used mine more times than I can count now, definitely faster than a full wrench for removing those clutch spring bolts. Ambihelical Hexnut fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Jan 22, 2011 |
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Jan 22, 2011 22:47
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Dumb question but you're aware you're supposed to unbend the washer before you put the socket on, right? At this point I'd probably put it all back together and see if it somehow cleaned itself out. Next step would be splitting the cases and seeing if there's wear on the shift forks or drums.
Z3n fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Jan 22, 2011 |
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Jan 22, 2011 23:24
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Hehe I saw the instructions to unbend it right after I posted. Still don't have the right metric socket, I think I'll just put it back together and see what happens.
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Jan 23, 2011 00:43
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I put it back together. Getting the water pump gear lined up with the driving gear, while keeping the gasket in line with all the screw holes was a challenge, but I defeated it. Refilled the oil and coolant and fired her up. A sweet smelling smokeshow occurred as all the residue burned off the exhaust pipe, but the gearshift snicked through 1-2-3 from every stop sign in the neighborhood for 20 straight minutes with no issues. Possibly fixed? We'll see. [edit] Not fixed.  I will learn to ride around it by continuously preloading the shifter and unlearning the ball of foot to peg reflex I have developed until I snag my toes on the ground, run over my own foot and my life is destroyed.
Ambihelical Hexnut fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Jan 24, 2011 |
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Jan 23, 2011 04:18
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benwards posted:This Shinko tire looks like a good option, and I could grab one from the cyclegear nearby rather than deal with shipping. I appreciate the offer, but since I don't have a way of mounting it cheaply, I think it probably makes more sense to get a new tire and mount that, rather than mount a used tire now and another new tire later when I can better afford it. That's the tire I have on my bike. Aside from giving good grip in dry conditions it also does well in the rain and ice encrusted parking lots.
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Jan 23, 2011 06:02
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JohnCrichton posted:That's the tire I have on my bike. Aside from giving good grip in dry conditions it also does well in the rain and ice encrusted parking lots. Hey, that's good to hear. Hoping to purchase and switch over sometime in the next couple weeks.
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Jan 23, 2011 08:39
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So after only one riding session on my new (to me) 2002, I have a problem! After the first time I rode it, I killed the battery by turning the key one click to far after locking the forks, leaving the taillight burning. (WTF parking mode? Stupid design). Anyway, I got the batter out, charged it back up, and put it back in the bike. While I was tightening one of the battery posts, my wrench shorted from the positive terminal to some metal bracket in front of the battery, something on the fuel tank maybe? Now when I turn the bike on, the tach shoots up to 4000rpm and just stays there. Bike runs fine, but the tach doesn't move. It goes back to 0 when I turn the bike off. Are these things related? Also, what should I look for to fix this? It's too cold and dark out to work on it now, but I'll be taking things apart this weekend.
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Jan 26, 2011 02:46
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Hey if anyone is looking for a Sv650 I saw this come up on craigslist. I dunno if its a good deal or not but check it out. http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/mcy/2180802288.html 
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Jan 26, 2011 15:00
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My roommate is currently looking at an '05 SV650S, bright yellow, with ~52,000 miles on it. I understand this is "high" mileage for a bike, but the seller is the original owner, send him a list of every single piece of maintenance he's ever done on it (dozens of oil changes, at least one set of tires yearly, I believe 2 chain/sprocket replacements, two valve checks/adjustments, the last one at 50k, front springs and a rear shock, and one "wiring short"). Has the lower fairing kit, quite a few small scuffs and a large rub-through from a Givi rack on the tail section. He offered the guy $2k, and the seller agreed. However, a friend of his father is telling him to run far away, saying that the guy was obviously put a lot of "sportbike riding" miles on it, and huge problems are sure to be popping up in the future. I've got an '03 SVS, and while it has about half the miles (25k when I put it away in November, in MN), I don't see 10k/yr being out of line, especially since the seller seems to have been a huge touring rider. He's selling it because he just bought a VFR, so from talking with the guy, he doesn't sound like your typical Gixxer Stunta, which is what his father's friend seems to be implying. What say you, CA? I told my roommate if he doesn't buy it, I'd have to think about it, and then dump my '03 in the spring 
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Jan 26, 2011 19:39
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I bought an 02 SV650 with 135k on it. 2 seasons of trackdays and 2 years of racing in there. It fragged the transmission at 140k, but the engine still ran fine. If not for the racing, I think it probably would have made 200k. The bike is fine if it was well maintained (sounds like it was), and it'll go forever if it's well treated. Use good oil, change it regularly, and it'll make it to 100k easy. Worst case, you have to swap engines when it blows. An engine for an SV650 is about 500-800$ and swapping one can be done in a weekend.
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Jan 26, 2011 19:43
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That's pretty much what my argument has been. He'd been looking at mostly older bikes, I told him with his level of mechanical expertise, he'd be much happier with a more modern, fuel injected, better-maintained bike, even with more miles. He's been shopping for and asking advice about gear, and getting signed up for the MSF in the spring as well. I get the feeling his father's friend saw something with a full-fairing kit and immediately thought "sportbike, oh no!". IF my roommate even got this bike up to 75k in a few years, I'd be amazed. He wants something to commute around town with, and take the occasional trips back home or to the Minneapolis-St Paul metro, both of which are two and a half hours or an hour and a half away. Even something like wheel bearings, head bearings, etc are easy enough for him to learn how to do, and he's got access to all the tools and help he might need. I just don't want him to spend $1k on a ragged-out old Ninja or something, and them have to ask me a ton of questions or spend a lot of time tinkering, rather than riding.
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Jan 26, 2011 20:11
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I spent $300 on my first motorcycle and it worked out fine.  My second bike, too, but that didn't end so well.
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Jan 26, 2011 22:33
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In an effort to revive this thread, two things: 1. I am getting ready to flush/refill my brake lines soon. Is it a worthwhile upgrade to install better brake lines? If so, which ones? Galfer? 2. Brake pad suggestions. They will be used for commuting in Phoenix, so wet weather performance is not an issue.
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Feb 18, 2011 03:47
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EBC HH's are pretty good for the money, should be around 30 bucks a set +/- 5 dollars. I'd recommend steel lines and some good fluid in there (RBF600 or something 5.1).
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Feb 18, 2011 04:44
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I completely forgot this thread existed; hopefully I'll be joining the SV army in a week or so with this: http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/mcy/2218813177.html 
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Feb 18, 2011 05:09
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SV's speedo light went out the other day on the way to work...drat it sucks riding for miles with a cop behind you and no other traffic to judge speed by. I'm guessing it is pretty easy to swap?
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Feb 18, 2011 14:32
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NitroSpazzz posted:SV's speedo light went out the other day on the way to work...drat it sucks riding for miles with a cop behind you and no other traffic to judge speed by. I'm guessing it is pretty easy to swap? Never done it on a gen 2 personally, but you should just have to remove some rubber plugs from the back of it and replace the bulbs. Make sure you get the right size bulbs, I've torched a gauge cluster from using ones that fit but were a bit too big...
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Feb 18, 2011 18:56
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Z3n posted:Never done it on a gen 2 personally, but you should just have to remove some rubber plugs from the back of it and replace the bulbs. Make sure you get the right size bulbs, I've torched a gauge cluster from using ones that fit but were a bit too big... Gen 1...will have to dig out the service manual.
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Feb 18, 2011 21:37
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NitroSpazzz posted:Gen 1...will have to dig out the service manual. Naked or faired? I did it on a set of faired gauges that just needed to have rubber plugs removed.
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Feb 18, 2011 21:43
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Z3n posted:Naked or faired? I did it on a set of faired gauges that just needed to have rubber plugs removed. Naked so it should be a quick job, pull back the boot and plug in a new one. I'll dig out the manual and see what bulb I need and swap it sometime this weekend.
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Feb 18, 2011 23:52
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Did the R6 throttle tube today. The change is hardly noticeable, but worth the small investment in time and money. Much easier to go WOT without repositioning my hand now, and the bike feels a little nicer. Only downside is it has about 1.5mm of axial play that the stock tube did not, but I didn't notice it much while riding.
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Feb 22, 2011 00:41
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I removed my rear wheel. OH GOD THE REAR WHEEL IS OFF HOW DO I PUT IT BACK ON
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Feb 23, 2011 20:37
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Reassembly is reverse of disassembly.
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Feb 24, 2011 02:59
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