|
So my wifes Saab has been saying "Service Theft Alarm" lately and I finally had time to get around to it this weekend while I was changing the timing belt. Apparently somebody had tried to change the batteries before and this is the glorious picture of what it looked like when I popped the top off to replace the batteries. Click here for the full 1423x1897 image. I'm really amazed it worked until recently given the state of how it looked. It was held in there with electrical tape, a waitress ticket, they used a piece of unmelted solder to make contact with one of the points and it was superglued to the board to boot. At what point does someone just do that instead of having it professionally installed? I don't get it..
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2011 17:44
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 13, 2024 15:03 |
|
|
keykey posted:So my wifes Saab has been saying "Service Theft Alarm" lately and I finally had time to get around to it this weekend while I was changing the timing belt. Apparently somebody had tried to change the batteries before and this is the glorious picture of what it looked like when I popped the top off to replace the batteries. To be fair, it's really hard to solder to a battery. If you somehow manage to get the battery contact hot enough to make a solid joint, I'm sure it's not good for the battery's guts.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2011 17:55
|
|
|
Except the board has 3 points for each battery on it to solder a 3 post battery on the underside of the board. It's not made for a standard battery. So, yes, the person that did the "fix" was a god drat retard. Basically, unsolder old batteries, solder new batteries in on the underside of the board.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2011 18:01
|
|
|
ColHannibal posted:I tried my new door lock actuator to see if it would fix the problem, no dice. That is the last thing in line I have checked to fix the door lock problem on my Integra right after fuses, alarm, Door lock control unit, second door lock control unit. Is it the driver's door? You know the driver's door doesn't lock on those cars if the door is open, right? You have to pull the interior door handle to make the door lock. It is some kind of stupid 'feature' to keep you from locking the keys in the car.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2011 18:06
|
|
|
Today I learned I am an unpatriotic bastard because I bought a VW Jetta TDI.... ...the person who made this comment was in a Honda Civic  He was really just angry that my car was faster than his.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2011 03:48
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:To be fair, it's really hard to solder to a battery. If you somehow manage to get the battery contact hot enough to make a solid joint, I'm sure it's not good for the battery's guts. Shoulda just put a battery holder in the board if you're gonna use those kinds of batteries. Are they 2/3A?
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2011 04:06
|
|
|
CommieGIR posted:Today I learned I am an unpatriotic bastard because I bought a VW Jetta TDI.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2011 04:20
|
|
|
tonedef131 posted:Surely the driver of a TDI must know that owning a diesel passenger car is unamerican. Very much so....ah well, they can pry it from my cold dead hands
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2011 04:24
|
|
|
I've had a TDI for close to 10 years now. Does that make me Hitler by proxy? 
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2011 04:46
|
|
|
keykey posted:I've had a TDI for close to 10 years now. Does that make me Hitler by proxy? Nah, 95% of the Nazis vehicles were gas powered. You are golden... On the other hand, we can both take our foreign cars and GITOUT! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nT0OqHr3wHQ CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Feb 15, 2011 |
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2011 06:08
|
|
|
sk8bored posted:Yeah, Larini. Pretty nice stuff, sounds really good too. Nowhere near as loud as the Lotus stage 2 i had on the Elise. Waiting for my new diffuser to arrive but here is a teaser. So uh, where's the thread talking about your Evora?
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2011 06:34
|
|
|
CommieGIR posted:Today I learned I am an unpatriotic bastard because I bought a VW Jetta TDI.... I may be well off the mark but isn't your typical US market Civic assembled in Ohio or Indiana and your typical US market Jetta assembled in Puebla?
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2011 07:30
|
|
|
CommieGIR posted:Today I learned I am an unpatriotic bastard because I bought a VW Jetta TDI.... TDIs: beatin Hondas, takin names http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_N0z9YIk1GU
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2011 17:00
|
|
|
A while ago, my trip computer backlite burnt out or something. I don't know. Today, since the weather cooperated, I went ahead and tried to see if reseating connecters could help.  god dammit i hate these connectors, especially when you can't easily navigate a screwdriver in to depress them for you. see also: justification for especially lovely cell phone pic, but I needed to see which direction I was going to have to break my wrist.  Well, that's good, I guess. A few minutes later, plug it back in and test... the light is still out. Well, that's cool, anything else I can try before I order a new one, oh magical factory service manual? "Check the following: Harness for open or short between fuse and board computer"   I think this is related to whatever is causing my A/C, recirc, and rear defroster lights to blink on and off erratically, since that started a little while after the trip computer backlight went out. Pulling the fuse for the instrument panel not only didn't fix it (since the fuse is intact), it didn't do anything at all. I tried removing my remanufactured "I don't feel like paying you assholes 26 dollars for a single two-watt bulb with a special plastic housing" lights that had burnt out, but that didn't help either issue. Next step is to try resetting the ECU? Who knows. I love doing the throttle dance to reprogram idle air, though. edit: positive note here, I can disassemble and reassemble the sentra dash board all the way to the instrument panel in almost exactly one hour. nurrwick fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Feb 18, 2011 |
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2011 04:43
|
|
|
nurrwick posted:"Check the following: Harness for open or short between fuse and board computer" That's not something you do by rooting around in the harness, unless it's intermittant. Find the fuse end and the computer end of the wires, disconnect them (pull the fuse and unplug the computer), and test them for a) continuity and b) ground You want continuity and no ground. If you have ground or no continuity, you're hosed, and now it's time to root around in the harness. Unpredictable inexplicable light craziness though? Putting my money on a bad alternator.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2011 13:33
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:That's not something you do by rooting around in the harness, unless it's intermittant. Find the fuse end and the computer end of the wires, disconnect them (pull the fuse and unplug the computer), and test them for I have one more loose connection/short to check, too - behind the HVAC. I know the dimmer knob isn't the culprit from last night's escapades, too. And yeah, I know about getting out the multimeter, but the story is not so good when it's told the right way. I hadn't thought about the alternator as the possible culprit though. I'd think I would notice some other voltage-related symptoms, though - is it possible for that to affect some circuits more than others? My experience with electricals is largely centered in ACVW land, so this is a little beyond personal expertise.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2011 15:03
|
|
|
Fair point, posted first thing when I got up, thinking "Oh god this guy is going to have a bad time I gotta save him". Content: I cleaned out my car!
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2011 15:31
|
|
|
Put the new fender cover on the Rocky, also installed the harness for the Hellas. Maybe when it stops being freezing and raining I'll install the switch, the fender liner, and consider registering it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2011 21:54
|
|
|
Did an oil change with 10w40 instead of 10w30/5w30 on my 189k mile vehicle. Oops. Lets see what happens with this. Oh, did I mention that its still winter here in New England? BeastPussy fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Feb 18, 2011 |
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2011 22:42
|
|
|
Beast Pussy posted:Did an oil change with 10w40 instead of 10w30/5w30 on my 189k mile vehicle. Oops. Lets see what happens with this. Ehh, probably not a god damned thing sadly. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2011 15:13
|
|
|
It's winter here, but it's no longer so cold than 40W should be a problem, I imagine. Following the bangup caused by snow/ice falling here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3388073&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=2#post387963972 I got my hood "straight" again:  Just hammered up under the hood until things popped themselves out. The fenders are still busted, but you can see my genius paintwork on the right side dent there. Truly the beauty of having a beater -- you can shrug this stuff off and it doesn't burn your soul one bit.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2011 22:39
|
|
|
Got my nearly stock Evo X professionally tuned today. With only a Cosworth drop-in panel filter and the tune, it dyno'd at 318 awhp and 300 ft-lbs.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2011 01:38
|
|
|
Took the dying battery I had been nursing along for about a year in for pro-rate exchange... New battery with 96 month pro rate for $40 or so. Not a bad deal.. Now my temp gauge wiggles. Doesn't seem to be actually overheating, maybe I just have a real 13.8v when the engine is on and I just got used to the slightly impotent sag on the temp gauge... FRESH battery too, December 2010 manuf date... Hard to do in a 51-R group size, they tend to sit on shelves for a while...
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2011 07:41
|
|
|
I figured out I'm kinda stupid while in my ride. You may remember from a few posts up that my trip computer backlight was no longer functioning and that I had assumed this meant a failure at some level within the actual LCD display. Not so much; it's amazing how evenly you can distribute the light from a tiny incandescent bulb. So now that that's been replaced, I can tell you it only takes me 7 and a half minutes to pull my instrument panel, maybe closer to 10 to get it back in since it's harder to line up the screws than to take them out. I've also done some thinking - I know why the lights in the HVAC panel are blinking. The bulb is about to fail completely. I got the exact same symptoms out of my other two HVAC panel bulbs and then one day they just stopped working. I'll have to get a picture of what the housings look like, but they pretty much burned up literally. I'm willing to bet you the same is happening on the AC/Defrost/Recirc buttons, especially since I just learned there's only one light bulb responsible for lighting up all three (allegedly; Nissan doesn't make the best parts diagrams and I have to trust the internet on this one - fortunately, replacement LED bulbs are way cheaper than the genuine Nissan stock). Now if only I hadn't tried three different ways on ordering a replacement instrument panel because of one internet post from five years ago that I can't even find anymore 
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2011 03:00
|
|
|
nurrwick posted:I figured out I'm kinda stupid while in my ride. Maybe there's a drop in LED based replacement in the bulb/base style... Less heat, no "burning up" and of course no burning "out." Probably brighter too.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2011 03:04
|
|
|
Got new REEEMS (Drag DR-34) and tires (Hankook V12s). Had to get new tires, and got cheap 17s to go with them. I like it thus far. Handling is awesome, and I think the car looks way better now. (cause aesthetics give the car more HP  ) Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.  Click here for the full 1792x1344 image.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2011 03:18
|
|
|
Over the weekend I did a timing belt and waterpump/thermostat change on my 2002 WRX. First time I did anything that extensive so I took my time. 56 miles later the car is still running strong and no coolant leaks. It's nice saving $500 in labor.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2011 03:49
|
|
|
New wheels: Enkei RPF1 17x9 New rubber: Hankook RS3 255/45r17  And installed these:  Still gotta play with the heights and get a proper alignment and balance. Not sure whether to sell the stock wheels or store em away.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2011 05:57
|
|
|
Sponge! posted:Maybe there's a drop in LED based replacement in the bulb/base style... Less heat, no "burning up" and of course no burning "out." Probably brighter too.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2011 06:38
|
|
|
10000lbsofbananas posted:New wheels: Enkei RPF1 17x9 Don't sell the old wheels because if you ever sell the car you'll need them (rather than sell your new wheels with the car). They'd be good for snow tires too if you ever need to go there.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2011 12:15
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:Do you suggest this because you know of a similar solution for old Hondas, perhaps? My Prelude's odometer and trip-meter are very dimly lit, I can't read them at night, making this vehicle poorly suited for TSD rallies. http://www.superbrightbulbs.com/ Welcome to the Internet: 1996. If you can figure out what the dimensions of your instrument panel bulbs are, you can probably order them from these people. E: I know Nissan's interior bulbs all seem to be within the 74 category.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2011 16:23
|
|
|
nurrwick posted:Welcome to the Internet: 1996. Welcome to assuming poo poo: 2011. Edit: I didn't follow the link, now I understand. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Feb 25, 2011 |
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2011 16:59
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:Welcome to being a dick: 2011. No no, the website is from 1996. Not the information from ... twas a bad joke. (I'm sorry) to add: I actually did order some bulbs from them, but I got incandescents because I didn't feel like putting up with uneven lighting in my HVAC system. For the instrument panel, I'd order LEDs, since the light is distributed by really cool lensing plastic. I'm not sure they'd be good for it, though, since I don't know if they can dim and they may be way too bright for my tastes. Then again, I wouldn't be scraping off the amber color background like most people might, so that's an additional reduction in brightness. nurrwick fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Feb 25, 2011 |
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2011 17:00
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:Do you suggest this because you know of a similar solution for old Hondas, perhaps? My Prelude's odometer and trip-meter are very dimly lit, I can't read them at night, making this vehicle poorly suited for TSD rallies. Unfortunately, the way our system works that's a no-go. The knob under the left of the cluster, opposite where the defroster switch is, the brightness control? It won't work well with L.E.D.s sadly. I'm going to be pulling mine out and resoldering it again soon, and I'm going to evaluate if I could modify it into a PWM controller instead of a dumbass current shunt (like the blower resistor, I'm also considering PWM-ing that too!) then I could replace them with LED bulbs that have a parallel resistance across the pins, then a small series resistor to limit actual current to the LED. I can't find a good working brightness control unit anywhere, they're usually burnt up beyond repair in jukyards. So I just fix mine every few years. I'll post my findings here of course. Protip: UV flashlight or UV led pointed at the cluster makes the odometer/trip wheels glow like a motherfucker. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2011 17:30
|
|
|
LEDs are so loving small, I wonder if you could make a bulb-sized cluster with a chip that added more to the circuit as voltage increased? Wouldn't be as good as a dimmer, but do you really need more than say 5 brightness settings and off? e: Or you could rework the dimmer knob to work like a blower fan selector and replace the wire to the bulb with a thin 6-stranded cable, using one as ground, and replace the socket with a mount. It'd probably be a one-time operation over the car's life, so no worries about making permanent/nonportable changes. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Feb 25, 2011 |
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2011 18:46
|
|
|
wav3form posted:Don't sell the old wheels because if you ever sell the car you'll need them (rather than sell your new wheels with the car). They'd be good for snow tires too if you ever need to go there. It's very hard not to think about it. They are the gunmetal forged R3 wheels that someone is offering me $2600 for. But you're probably right, they might prove useful someday.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2011 22:35
|
|
|
10000lbsofbananas posted:It's very hard not to think about it. They are the gunmetal forged R3 wheels that someone is offering me $2600 for. But you're probably right, they might prove useful someday. poo poo in that case sell the bastards. I assumed the stock wheels weren't worth all the much like most cars.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2011 22:58
|
|
|
My dimmer control is ornamental - the knob does absolutely nothing at all. Sponge! posted:Protip: UV flashlight or UV led pointed at the cluster makes the odometer/trip wheels glow like a motherfucker.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2011 02:05
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:My dimmer control is ornamental - the knob does absolutely nothing at all. Your P.O. just hotwired it to full bright then. I can fix them if you ever want it done. I've done mine twice now.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2011 04:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 13, 2024 15:03 |
|
|
I tentatively diagnosed a blown headgasket in my sister's Civic, after driving an hour each way to pick her up from where she overheated the hell out of it with almost no oil showing on the dipstick. Tomorrow's project: drain fluids and pull the head, hoping it's not hosed.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2011 05:00
|
|