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Slow is Fast posted:I feel for anyone with an 05 LGT. Thing still runs and drives fine with no lights. I could turn it in after returning it to stock and probably get the same price as a functional car (if I didn't say anything). That would be the sane thing to do, if a bit deceptive. But no, i'm going to drop $5k+ under the hood.
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Feb 17, 2011 07:26
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Slow is Fast posted:Also, this little guy popped out when I pulled the rear RS axle... That looks a lot like the circlip that holds the wheel bearing in.
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Feb 17, 2011 07:33
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the rear wheel speed sensors are attached to the hubs and under the brake rotor. That's just rust. it doesn't look at all like the circlip that holds the wheel bearing in. It looks like the circlip that holds the axle stud in the diff.
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Feb 17, 2011 07:36
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jamal posted:the rear wheel speed sensors are attached to the hubs and under the brake rotor. That's just rust. 
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Feb 17, 2011 07:38
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I'm about 1500 miles away from the end of my warranty on my 07 wrx. I know I should have them do a compression test before I'm out of warranty, but is there anything else I should have them go over?
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Feb 17, 2011 07:58
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jamal posted:the rear wheel speed sensors are attached to the hubs and under the brake rotor. That's just rust. Thanks, glad I don't have to worry about the speed sensors. The circlip came from the hub side not the diff side.
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Feb 17, 2011 13:44
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:I'm about 1500 miles away from the end of my warranty on my 07 wrx. I know I should have them do a compression test before I'm out of warranty, but is there anything else I should have them go over? I doubt they'd do this for free unless you have problems.... --- A few screenshots from this video:  
Blaise fucked around with this message at 14:19 on Feb 17, 2011 |
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Feb 17, 2011 14:14
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Blaise posted:I doubt they'd do this for free unless you have problems....
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Feb 17, 2011 17:18
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nm posted:It is worth the cost. Right, I'm not worried about free, I'm worried about catching anything that might be ready to blow up on me shortly after my warranty period that would be covered now.
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Feb 17, 2011 17:40
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nm posted:Bob Log, your im box is full (this is actually on topic) PM'd you when I cleared it out 
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Feb 17, 2011 17:48
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:I'm about 1500 miles away from the end of my warranty on my 07 wrx. I know I should have them do a compression test before I'm out of warranty, but is there anything else I should have them go over? leakdown is a lot more informative than a compression check, I would just get both done at the same time.
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Feb 17, 2011 19:23
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Any idea what price I should expect from a dealership leakdown and compression check?
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Feb 17, 2011 19:39
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Any idea what price I should expect from a dealership leakdown and compression check? Should cost you just above what a compression tests costs. All the labor is getting to the plugs.
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Feb 17, 2011 19:50
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So while I wait for their tuner to get back into town at the end of the month, should I scrape up/look around for a CAI? If so, suggested brands? I mean i could always add one on later, but i think I'd probably need another tune. If I can slip it on now when I have the UP/DP done with tune, I'd be pretty much set, right?
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Feb 18, 2011 00:24
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you can probably guess my suggestion
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Feb 18, 2011 00:30
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I have a 2011 WRX, am 27 years old and male. My insurance is 240 bucks a month with progressive but I can't find anyone really willing to cut me a break because I was in an accident where I was considered 100% at fault, have a perfect driving record other than that. The ABS bug in 02's is what caused the crash cause my foot was buried into the floorboard and doing nothing to actually slow me down. I stupidly did not get a police report when it happened because the Cop told me that one was not necessary and drove away  .Sooo do I really have any options other than sucking up the payments for 3 years then eventually having my insurance cut in half. Edit: Unrelated: Jamal - What would you say in response to a shop who said using the Harman Motive intake/filter you sold me a while back for my 2011 will be less efficient because it is made of metal and will increase intake temps vs. the stock box/intake/filter without increasing any airflow  ? I will say I think it's bullshit personally, but I can also see what they mean, I am curious how you would respond to that assertion. Bob Log fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Feb 18, 2011 |
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Feb 18, 2011 00:30
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jamal posted:you can probably guess my suggestion Do it, do it now! ?? If so, what brand?
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Feb 18, 2011 00:34
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Does anyone have any idea how much voltage my alternator is supposed to be putting out? I had a little hesitation starting today so I got my alternator / battery / starter checked at autozone. According to the printout, without load my alternator puts out about 14.16 volts, 8.1 amps and under load it puts out 12.23 volts and 23.4 amps. I heard the alternators on Subaru's can be a little low output, but I'm not sure how reliable that info is or how low is normal for this car. I have a bone stock 2004 Subaru WRX except for an aftermarket head unit.
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Feb 18, 2011 01:07
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toplitzin posted:Do it, do it now! ?? Especially don't do it without a tune. If you must do it, get a tune, but ask yourself, do I need a CAI? Bob Log posted:I have a 2011 WRX, am 27 years old and male. My insurance is 240 bucks a month with progressive but I can't find anyone really willing to cut me a break because I was in an accident where I was considered 100% at fault, have a perfect driving record other than that. Also, file a report with NHTSA. Also, gently caress Sonoma county cops. My only ticket is from there -- somehow 12 mph= $288.
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Feb 18, 2011 01:20
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Blaise posted:Should cost you just above what a compression tests costs. All the labor is getting to the plugs. Would a compression test at the dealership be more than around $100?
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Feb 18, 2011 01:30
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Would a compression test at the dealership be more than around $100? Here they are. Both local dealers quote 3 hours for compression test as of this morning at $130/hr. Your dealer may be significantly less retarded. It can be done a lot cheaper, be surprised if you couldn't get it done in under two hours.
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Feb 18, 2011 01:52
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trying to find the huge article we did awhile back on intakes. we charge 100 for a compression test, 150 for leakdown, 200 for both. found it on a harddrive here, we-reuploaded the old blog: http://harmanmotive.com/blog/?p=26 the harman/aq intake is very similar to AEM. jamal fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Feb 18, 2011 |
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Feb 18, 2011 02:31
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I'm coming up on 115k, and need new brake pads and considering they're bone stock, new rotors wouldn't hurt either. Whats the general consensus on replacements? OEM? Autozone premiums? Ceramic fairy magic dust?
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Feb 18, 2011 13:56
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I have Hawk HPSs sitting in my living room to install tomorrow. If you can wait a day I'll give you feedback.
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Feb 18, 2011 15:30
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I went with some cheap Raybestos pads from RockAuto and they worked just fine -- even for autox. The only thing to watch out for is the OEM rotors have the hubs painted black. When I bought new rotors, the hubs weren't painted and they rusted. It doesn't really negatively affect performance, but it looked terrible with black wheels.
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Feb 18, 2011 15:46
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Additional note: Which rotors/calipers will fit stock wheels (100mm hubs)?
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Feb 18, 2011 17:25
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stoptech street pads centric blank rotors stoptech slotted rotors if you're feeling fancy hardly anything fits under the stock 02-05 wheels aside from the stock 2-pots jamal fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Feb 18, 2011 |
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Feb 18, 2011 18:28
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jamal posted:stoptech street pads Jamal hit it on the head here (as if that's strange). I got Hawk HPS pads on mine and they don't grab very hard until they've heated up. So for competition I'd assume they're great, but for daily driving just know that if you need to slam on your brakes, do it a little earlier than you normally would so that the pads heat up then grab. That said once they grab, they really grab good.
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Feb 18, 2011 18:53
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I've driven some cars with the stoptech pads (and have a set for myself not installed), and they're a lot better than the HPS, which I have. They have a higher coefficent of friction at all temps which means you have a more responsive brake pedal and it takes less effort to start braking. They also have a higher max operating temp of like 1100F compared to 800-900 for the hawks. And they're cheaper.
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Feb 18, 2011 18:59
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I've got the Stoptech street pads and I love them. I've had them for about a year now. I've only done one autocross with them, but they held up well. Very noticeable difference from stock. A lot less fade than I'd expected, and they were cheaper than the HPSs.Slow is Fast posted:I feel for anyone with an 05 LGT. nm's saga is scaring the bejesus out of me. At least I finally managed to move somewhere with decent independent shops, so if the worst happens I can agree that I love my car $5k and just move on. nm posted:I had one of these get destroyed on my LGT when a rock got stuck in the tiny space. I had to buy a new wheel bearing and subaru refused warranty (5/60) Oh, I've got to register my car one of these days in Colorado. I'm coming from Florida, which isn't a front-plate state, so there are no holes in my bumper for the bracket. I'd prefer not to drill holes in the bumper; are there any good solutions for mounting a plate that don't involve drilling? Bud Manstrong fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Feb 18, 2011 |
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Feb 18, 2011 22:25
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Bud Manstrong posted:nm's saga is scaring the bejesus out of me. At least I finally managed to move somewhere with decent independent shops, so if the worst happens I can agree that I love my car $5k and just move on. I'm expecting my 92k mi turbo will fail 5 minutes later. quote:Sucks. It's not exactly a wheel bearing problem, but I've had three bearings go - two after 5/60 - and the dealership replaced all of them under warranty because the problem is so well-known. Strangely, I have only 1 OEM wheel bearing left, my rear passenger side. (Rear driver= rock. front driver=failure at like 85k mi, nor warranty, but subaru "goodwilled" 25%. Front Passenger=hoon on ice+curb) rear wheel bearings are cover 10/100 though. ---- Hawk HPS Carbotech bobcats have more initial bite, esp in very cold weather (used to live in Minneapolis). Honestly, if they weren't so noisy and dusty (actually, I don't care about the dust, but you can hear me coming from a block or two away with them) and I wasn't anywhere with sub freezing temps, I'd run XP10s all the time. They have some amazing bite as low as 50F (and they go to like 1600F). nm fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Feb 18, 2011 |
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Feb 18, 2011 22:55
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nice thing is that the bearings on the legacy bolt in. takes us less than half an hour to swap. whole hub/bearing unit is like $110. and NM I'll send you an email in a bit.
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Feb 18, 2011 23:04
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jamal posted:nice thing is that the bearings on the legacy bolt in. takes us less than half an hour to swap. whole hub/bearing unit is like $110. I never got 1 loving warranty thing done on the car except have the floor mat clip replaced under a TSB. PO got some free wiper blades (a lot of free wiper blades), the fan switch recall done, and I think maybe some brake pads. I have full records. Bought the car because it looked completely trouble free. Dammit. Goddamn dealer talked me out of doing a compression test at high 50s because it would cost infinity dollars and I wasn't really using that much oil (like 1qt ever 2k mi). I realize now that my car has likely been smoking since about then. Car has been consuming 1-2qts every 1000mi since a bit after 60k. yes, this means I've been running for 30k on this poo poo. No lights, nothing. I will say, it is a resilient motherfucker, kind of like the 80s GM cars that will never die. I'm really interested to see what it looks like torn down.
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Feb 18, 2011 23:20
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Jamal, any opinion on EBC pads? Namely Red/Yellow stuff?
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Feb 19, 2011 00:41
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Amandyke posted:Jamal, any opinion on EBC pads? Namely Red/Yellow stuff? This may have been fixed at some point because I got out of VWs like 2 years ago (that POS was even more expensive than the subie, it was just in installment payments)
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Feb 19, 2011 02:00
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Amandyke posted:Jamal, any opinion on EBC pads? Namely Red/Yellow stuff? no idea, I stick with the following pads: street pad - stoptech street, or centric posiquiet if you want cheap dd performance street/light track - ferodo ds2500, hawk dtc-30, CL RC5+ race pad - ds3000, CL RC6/RC6E There are lots of pads, and most of them are pretty good these days. I just stick with what I have experience with and I know works. jamal fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Feb 19, 2011 |
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Feb 19, 2011 03:52
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EBC Redstuffs are very aggressive and wouldn't work very well on a street driven car with low ambient temperatures (like winter), yellowstuffs are less aggressive than the Reds with more variance in environments they would work in.
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Feb 19, 2011 04:00
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http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gr-wheels-tires-braking-handling-classifieds/210659-sti-stoptech-pads-blow-out-110-free-shipping.html Those Stoptech Pads are 110 bucks on sale on IWSTI right now. I think i'm going to pick up a set and check them out. Thanks for the recommendation Jamal.
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Feb 19, 2011 07:12
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Clutch started slipping on our '05 LGT the other day. We only have 30k miles on it, I know I drive it hard, but didn't think i drove it that hard. I called dealership to see how much they wanted to do it, $1800 since they want to replace the flywheel too. They say they cant resurface dual mass flywheel. Normally I would do it myself, but I am up here for work so don't have all my tools and stuff with me, so would need to buy jack, stands, etc. Now I am trying to decide what to do, I hate having work done on my car, but it wont be as easy to do it myself.
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Feb 19, 2011 07:30
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mhsneon posted:Clutch started slipping on our '05 LGT the other day. We only have 30k miles on it, I know I drive it hard, but didn't think i drove it that hard. I called dealership to see how much they wanted to do it, $1800 since they want to replace the flywheel too. They say they cant resurface dual mass flywheel. Normally I would do it myself, but I am up here for work so don't have all my tools and stuff with me, so would need to buy jack, stands, etc. Now I am trying to decide what to do, I hate having work done on my car, but it wont be as easy to do it myself.
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Feb 19, 2011 09:05
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