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my1999gsr posted:Congrats, you've just described my average day at the shop! Anyways, I'm glad it all worked out. These days, if you have a bad DV on a TFSI car, do you replace it with the diaphragm part or the new TSI piston part? Reason I ask -- my MkV is still under factory warranty, it would be expedient for my DV to fail some time within the next year 
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Feb 15, 2011 06:49
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Break4Gold posted:I have a 1998 VW Jetta VR6, i got rid of my Cat and i failed inspection because my car failed to reach readiness status for the cats. Now my question is, can i over ride the system to reach readiness status manually with a scan tool? and also can i do it with any scan tool if its possible, or would i need a dealers scan tool? Just put a cat back on. There is no way to fool the computer that it's missing.
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Feb 15, 2011 17:46
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http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_V--2.0T/Suspension/Suspension_Kits/ES263076/ Looks like the Koni FSD/Eibach Pro kit is on sale for $700, and I'm itching. However, I also see this: quote:Front Suspension Install Kit - Stage 1 Are all those parts one-time use parts that I have to throw away if I untorque them, or are they adapters because the new setup won't fit or something? The car has about 19,000 miles on them, and there's no obvious issue with my suspension at the time.
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Feb 15, 2011 21:40
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my1999gsr posted:Nope - you're still pretty low mileage for anything big to go wrong. You may find that you're starting to get some noise from the front swaybar links or lower control arm bushings but that's not too awful really. Other than that, I wouldn't sweat it - the 2.5 has been pretty trouble-free overall. Sorry for the late response but thanks! We've only had it for a couple of weeks now but so far it's a lovely little car, it might as well be a Maybach considering our previous vehicle was a Cavalier.
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Feb 15, 2011 21:46
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Break4Gold posted:I have a 1998 VW Jetta VR6, i got rid of my Cat and i failed inspection because my car failed to reach readiness status for the cats. Now my question is, can i over ride the system to reach readiness status manually with a scan tool? and also can i do it with any scan tool if its possible, or would i need a dealers scan tool? Echoing Opossum's response - no, there's no way to force the car to pass readiness without the cat. If you replace your cat with a non-VW piece, make sure it's large enough - I've replaced a few aftermarket cats only because they just didn't have enough substrate.
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Feb 16, 2011 02:50
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primitive posted:These days, if you have a bad DV on a TFSI car, do you replace it with the diaphragm part or the new TSI piston part? I'm not sure what part supercession the DV is at now since I haven't done one on an A4-style Golf/Jetta in quite a while but as I recall we were still using the diaphragm-type on the last one I did.
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Feb 16, 2011 02:52
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teh jhey posted:http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_V--2.0T/Suspension/Suspension_Kits/ES263076/ Well, the 2 axle bolts are must haves - they're TTY parts. The others aren't really necessary unless they're in poor shape which they probably aren't considering your mileage. The only reason you might want to replace the bearings and bushings is if they're specifically designed for the suspension kit. If they're straight up OEM VW parts then you can re-use your original parts.
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Feb 16, 2011 02:57
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quietthings posted:Sorry for the late response but thanks! We've only had it for a couple of weeks now but so far it's a lovely little car, it might as well be a Maybach considering our previous vehicle was a Cavalier. Excellent! I'm glad you're enjoying it.
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Feb 16, 2011 02:58
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teh jhey posted:http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_V--2.0T/Suspension/Suspension_Kits/ES263076/ I paid $900 for the same thing off TireRack, and it's worth it, even more so at the $700 price point! I also got that exact same replacement part kit. I did mine when my MkV had 35k miles... even if the parts weren't worn out, it seemed kind of daft to have the entire front end apart and not replace every bushing, bearing, and mount in sight. (Only thing I wish I had done differently: I should have replaced the strut mounts, too.)
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Feb 16, 2011 10:29
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Thanks for the replies. I have another question on the installation: What would a VW tech use instead of this?  Basically, it's this:  But how would you get the right torque down on it?
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Feb 16, 2011 16:25
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Here's a tire/wheel question! I've got a set of Koni FSD shocks and struts with Neuspeed springs. That should be about a 1" drop. I want to run 17" 235 wheels. Can I get away with 235/45 without rubbing? Or should I go with 235/40? There's a lot more tire choices in 45 than there are 40. Plus the extra height would help the ride a bit.
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Feb 16, 2011 16:41
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timb posted:Here's a tire/wheel question! On what car? My GLI has a 1" drop with Eiboch springs and came stock with 225/40/18s, so I would imagine that a 235/45 is still a smaller outside diameter.
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Feb 16, 2011 16:56
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veedubfreak posted:On what car? My GLI has a 1" drop with Eiboch springs and came stock with 225/40/18s, so I would imagine that a 235/45 is still a smaller outside diameter. Whoops! MKV GTI.
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Feb 16, 2011 17:04
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teh jhey posted:Thanks for the replies. I have another question on the installation: I have a long hex 3/8" socket and a Snap-On socket that they don't make any more that I use only for this job. The hex passes through the Snap-On socket and it has a 19 mm nut on the end of it. I counter-hold the Snap-On socket with a 19 mm wrench and torque the hex.
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Feb 16, 2011 23:43
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Got a new issue with my 06 GLI. After driving back from work I put in park and was gathering up my things when the idle went from about 650rpm up to 1500rpm by itself, got out of the car and listened to it and it was indeed revving up to 1500 rpm from idle while in park. Is this something VW's are known to do every now and then? I know the engine I have sounds like it idles rough due to the high pressure injection.
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Feb 17, 2011 02:19
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I've got a 98 Jetta TDI. Can you look up the part number for the rubber cover for the viewing window thing on top of the transmission? The one that lets you look at the clutch/flywheel. I seem to have lost mine at some point.
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Feb 17, 2011 07:21
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my1999gsr posted:Turns out I have 9 of them. Give me an address and I'll send em for free. Hey man thanks for being the only cool VW affiliated person I've dealt with in my 10 years of dealing with VW people. Seriously, don't worry about the clips. Ready for more problems though? First... yesterday my parking/hand brake came loose. I got to work, applied the brake and it seemed really loose, but still "grabbed". I played with it a little bit and I could tell it just felt different. On the way home I stopped for gas... applied the brake and about punched myself in the face because there was no resistance at all. I guessing/hoping that there is a cable of some kind that has come loose from the brake handle and all I'll have to do is get to it, reattach the cable/rod, whatever, and tighten a nut. The question is, how big of a pain in the rear end is getting to it? If it's like everything else on this car I'll probably have to remove the front seats. I'm going to google it here in a second. Second... My car is running terrible. I'm going to take it back to VW when I get time which I never do. Last night I'm doing 70mph on the highway and the engine totally shuts down. This is "the bad thing". I get Check Engine light, EPC light, and Anti-slip light... all on and stay on. So as I'm doing 70mph with no power, I get the car in neutral and restart it on the fly. It starts right up no problem and all the trouble lights go off and stay off. About 2 miles later the Check Engine light comes back on solid. This was the second time it had done this at high speed. The other time was during my last go around with the garage in November. It did this 3 times last week but in those cases it was right as I was accelerating after idling for 5-10 min. in fast food drive thrus. Then this morning it did it again going about 35mph. I'd just get rid of it if I had the money for a new car... which I would have if I hadn't put about $3000 in this one in the last year. EDIT: Guess I'll follow this for the parking brake. Sounds pretty easy. http://www.ehow.com/how_5489847_fix-emergency-brake-vw-jetta.html FrankeeFrankFrank fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Feb 17, 2011 |
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Feb 17, 2011 15:17
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'06 A4 off to dealer for 55k service. CEL just came on, hope it isn't anything awful/expensive  Brakes were squealing, how much would I be paying for a dealer brake job? (I think the rotors on their last legs unfortunately, can't resurface again) Loaner is a '07, that body style just looks so much sleeker than the '06s, makes me sad 
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Feb 17, 2011 17:23
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Opensourcepirate posted:I've got a 98 Jetta TDI. Can you look up the part number for the rubber cover for the viewing window thing on top of the transmission? The one that lets you look at the clutch/flywheel. I seem to have lost mine at some point. It's a lost cause, your transmission is shot Sell the car to me and I will ensure its proper disposal
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Feb 17, 2011 22:24
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$4k
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Feb 17, 2011 22:59
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Alighieri posted:Got a new issue with my 06 GLI. After driving back from work I put in park and was gathering up my things when the idle went from about 650rpm up to 1500rpm by itself, got out of the car and listened to it and it was indeed revving up to 1500 rpm from idle while in park. Is this something VW's are known to do every now and then? I know the engine I have sounds like it idles rough due to the high pressure injection. It def. shouldn't have a fluctuating idle like that - the 2.0T might be loud but it's idle should be dead solid. I'd suspect a PCV problem or possibly a failing A/C compressor. Start the car and try to remove the oil filler cap. If it's difficult to remove then replace the PCV.
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Feb 18, 2011 02:15
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Opensourcepirate posted:I've got a 98 Jetta TDI. Can you look up the part number for the rubber cover for the viewing window thing on top of the transmission? The one that lets you look at the clutch/flywheel. I seem to have lost mine at some point. I can look but you're better off just calling your local wrecker/salvage yard - they'll likely just give you one for free.
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Feb 18, 2011 02:16
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movax posted:'06 A4 off to dealer for 55k service. CEL just came on, hope it isn't anything awful/expensive Depending on which brakes you need (front or rear) I would think your parts cost would be $200-$300ish with 1.2-1.6 hours of labor. That's a rough guess - I haven't priced out brake parts in a while. If your local shop is ok with it, you could source out the rotors yourself - a decent set of slugs from Partsource/Pepboys/wherever would likely save you some cash. I tend to recommend OEM pads though - the fitment is usually superior to the white box stuff.
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Feb 18, 2011 02:20
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:Hey man thanks for being the only cool VW affiliated person I've dealt with in my 10 years of dealing with VW people. Ok, your parking brake: It sounds like one or both of your brake cables have come out of the yoke that's part of the parking brake handle. The ehow article isn't completely right - your car is a Mk4 Jetta if I remember right and that article sounds like it's for a Mk3. To diagnose your problem quickly try this: remove the side covers for your center armrest (they just snap together). The armrest itself is held in place by a single 13mm bolt. Remove the bolt and slide the armrest up and set it aside. Now there should be a rectangular hole in your center console where the armrest was. If you shine a flashlight in there with the parking brake handle at rest you should see a threaded rod with a 2" bar on it. The bar or "yoke" has 2 depressions on either side with slots cut into them - the parking brake cables have little barbels that snap into those cups/slots. If you can see the yoke and the cables aren't in it then that's the problem. Your rear brake calipers have springs on their parking brake levers that keep tension on the cables so they don't sneak out of the yoke - if the cables have escaped then something's not right; either you've got a couple of partially seized parking brake levers (on the calipers) or more likely your parking brake cables have rusted solid and need to be replaced. I think the last time I did cables they cost $60 for a pair and took about 45 minutes to do. If you want a tutorial on how to remove your console, take a picture of the rear part (behind the armrest) and I'll tell you how to get it out of the way. On your recurring EPC/MIL/stalling problems: At this point I'd be pulling up a wiring diagram and doing wiring checks from the throttle control module to the ECM to determine if there's a wiring issue. If there isn't then I'd be doing output tests via my scantool to see if there's a functionality issue with any of the components. I'd like to see what error codes you have stored now too - that would go a long way. Im sure that anyone else reading about your problems would be thinking coolant migration - it's a possibility given the nature of the problems you're having but there's usually a lot of other strange problems that crop up when coolant has gotten into things it shouldn't. You can have the clips for your hood - they're just sitting in my junk drawer. Keep in mind though - they usually fall out because the underhood liner shrinks over time, snaps the clips off and then it can't be re-secured because the holes in the liner don't line up with the holes in the hood.
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Feb 18, 2011 02:46
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my1999gsr posted:Ok, your parking brake: Thanks again. This weekend is totally shot... as has this whole week been with the end of my daughter's basketball season overlapping the start of club volleyball, and me spending 5 hours a night watching volleyball and putting together recruiting highlight videos for colleges. Mind numbing. Those clips get brittle as hell too. And I've actually broke 2 of them while trying to buy replacements because people will say well bring one in and will just match them up. So I go out to the car take one off bring it inside... and they say nope we don't have that. And when i go to put it back it turns to dust. I am the Inspector Clouseau of Jetta car repair. It will seriously be Monday night before I can even think about looking at my car.
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Feb 18, 2011 03:13
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my1999gsr posted:Depending on which brakes you need (front or rear) I would think your parts cost would be $200-$300ish with 1.2-1.6 hours of labor. That's a rough guess - I haven't priced out brake parts in a while. If your local shop is ok with it, you could source out the rotors yourself - a decent set of slugs from Partsource/Pepboys/wherever would likely save you some cash. I tend to recommend OEM pads though - the fitment is usually superior to the white box stuff. Got a call back earlier today; brakes are apparently fine, CEL was "turbo valve" (I assume that's the DV making GBS threads itself) rest of the 55k mile service done. Hooray for warranty repairs, $500 overall. Turns out my loaner is a 2011 A4...big fan of the exterior, but not so much interior. I actually prefer my '06s plain old LCD radio versus the fancy, bright-rear end MMI interface. Guess 2011 gained a 7-speed though!
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Feb 18, 2011 03:19
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my1999gsr posted:much needed help Well... here you go... Left work last night, driving home. Doing 35-40mph, start bearing right to take the on-ramp onto the highway, engine cuts off completely as I'm in my turn... no power steering. I have to grab the wheel with both hands and hang on it to the right while slamming on the brakes to avoid going off the side of the ramp and into power poles etc. During the 17 mile drive home it cut off 2 more times. I noticed all three times it happened it was about 200-300 yards after I had been stopped and idling at a light, and as I was excellerating, most likely in 3rd gear, right before I would need to shift to 4th. So after my car nearly killed me the night before, this morning I started it and just let it idle in the garage for awhile. After running for 1:00 min. maybe 1:30 min. it would slowly stall out. It did this twice before the idle finally maintained itself. On my way to work I stopped at Advance Auto Parts. They pull free codes. They pull the following: P1142 - Throttle Actuator Range/Performance Bank 1 P0638 - It didn't give him a name for this error. The guy said it must be Volkswagen specific. So I looked it up... "PO638 means that your throttle is out of range, the only way I see to correct this is with a VAG scan tool at a VW dealership." So it looks like I need a new throttle for sure. I'm going back to the one VW dealership that weren't total dicks... they were incompetent but they were nice about it... and they were the only dealership I have ever been to where when I left I actually thought they were trying to help me and not just take me for all they could. (As an aside, I talked to a friend of mine who used to be a mechanic for a VW dealership. He still works there but the dealership switched from VW to Jeep. He said, "Don't ever, ever bring your car in here. This whole business is based on ripping people off." He's almost 60 years-old and has worked there his entire life, and that's what he thinks of the place and the whole industry. Now he also said, and I find this hard to believe, but that since the economy has gotten bad they have switched all their mechanics to working what amounts to on commission. The mechanics get a percentage of the repairs they make, which encourages them to potentially screw the car owner. He said things are really bad and most of there business now is simply oil changes, and the mechanics can't live on a percentage of 2 or 3 oil changes a day.) Anyway, it just added to my frustration and hatred of dealerships. So I guess I need something like this... http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQVolkswagenQQJettaQQOES_GenuineQQThrottle_ActuatorQQ20022005QQW0133-1857217.html That says $150. You said E-Bay used for $200 earlier. How much should I expect VW to charge me for one $500? What's your opinion of parts from scrap yards? I guess I would be fearful of buying anything electronic from a junk car that has sat out in the elements for a few years.
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Feb 18, 2011 17:37
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Got vehicle back, all shiny and serviced. They replaced my DV with a 06H-145-710-D; isn't there a G revision of this part out? The valve has its own 1yr/12k mile warranty, so I won't have to pay a deductible again if this one shits itself, but just curious to see if this is the reinforced type DV.
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Feb 18, 2011 23:46
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movax posted:Got vehicle back, all shiny and serviced. They replaced my DV with a 06H-145-710-D; isn't there a G revision of this part out? The valve has its own 1yr/12k mile warranty, so I won't have to pay a deductible again if this one shits itself, but just curious to see if this is the reinforced type DV. D is the better, higher quality version from what I understand.
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Feb 18, 2011 23:48
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timb posted:D is the better, higher quality version from what I understand. Yeah, I just googled, turns out D is the one to have; G has a rubber diaphragm.  e: I wonder what I had before. Probably a G, since it's a 2006 model.
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Feb 18, 2011 23:49
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movax posted:Yeah, I just googled, turns out D is the one to have; G has a rubber diaphragm. And we all know what happens when the diaphragm breaks. I do not want to be the one that has to run out and get the morning after pill for my GTI! 
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Feb 18, 2011 23:52
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timb posted:And we all know what happens when the diaphragm breaks. I do not want to be the one that has to run out and get the morning after pill for my GTI! My Jetta is gay.
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Feb 19, 2011 00:07
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my1999gsr posted:I can look but you're better off just calling your local wrecker/salvage yard - they'll likely just give you one for free. How much do you think it would cost for a new one?
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Feb 19, 2011 01:54
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:My Jetta is gay. All Jettas are gay.
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Feb 19, 2011 15:08
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movax posted:Got a call back earlier today; brakes are apparently fine, CEL was "turbo valve" (I assume that's the DV making GBS threads itself) rest of the 55k mile service done. Hooray for warranty repairs, $500 overall. Not surprising about the turbo valve diagnostic - common enough! I agree on your impressions of the 2011 you drove - I hate the new MMI/radio compared to the previous ones and I didn't find the sound any better. The 7 speed is pretty nice but all the fun is in the first 2 gears anyways.
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Feb 19, 2011 21:31
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:Well... here you go... Your faults look like you've got one of 2 problems - either your throttle control needs to have a basic setting performed (I think the procedure is scantool-based so it'll be a trip to your dealership for that) or it's potentiometer is faulty and the unit needs to be replaced. It's hard to give you a solid answer about wrecking yard parts - generally you'll get a limited guarantee on the part so if you plug it in and it doesn't work then just return it. Since you haven't been able to get a solid answer on what the problem is, you might learn a great deal from swapping a different throttle control module into your car and seeing if the problem is solved or changes. I did a quick ebay search to find that $200 price but your luck may vary. Honestly if I were you at this point, I'd find the cheapest throttle control module I could and throw it in the car. With all the diagnosis and opinions you've had to wade through it would be worth a little more money to throw a part at the problem. The range/performance fault is a pretty dead giveaway - it means that the TCM can't correctly read it's degree of open/closed so the car will go into limp-home or stall depending on what kind of garbled readings the ECM gets.
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Feb 19, 2011 21:46
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Opensourcepirate posted:How much do you think it would cost for a new one? $4-$10 depending on if it's even still available in your region - it was back-ordered when I had my parts dept. look it up.
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Feb 19, 2011 21:48
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Quick question: '05 A4 1.8T. Cylinder #1 is closest to the bumper, right?
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Feb 20, 2011 02:13
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my1999gsr posted:$4-$10 depending on if it's even still available in your region - it was back-ordered when I had my parts dept. look it up. Can you tell me what it would be called?
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Feb 20, 2011 08:14
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Question: I have a 1998 A4. Today I noticed that when the car took speed bumps, potholes, and occasionally a turn, I'd hear a noise like a rusty hinge opening slowly from the rear right wheel. I took the wheel off and I found that the coil spring had broken near its end. I'm tired of paying for work to be done on this car, so I'd prefer to just do it on my own if possible. I don't really have any experience as a shadetree mechanic however, so my question is: how doable is this as a first project? It seems like it ought to be straightforward, but is this one of those things that seems like it should be easy but turns out to be impossible? If not, is there anything I should watch out for in particular? What tools would be required besides a socket wrench set, a jack, and a coil compressor?
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Feb 20, 2011 21:53
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