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mhsneon posted:Clutch started slipping on our '05 LGT the other day. We only have 30k miles on it, I know I drive it hard, but didn't think i drove it that hard. I called dealership to see how much they wanted to do it, $1800 since they want to replace the flywheel too. They say they cant resurface dual mass flywheel. Normally I would do it myself, but I am up here for work so don't have all my tools and stuff with me, so would need to buy jack, stands, etc. Now I am trying to decide what to do, I hate having work done on my car, but it wont be as easy to do it myself. The 05/06 LGTs did come with dual mass flywheels. They went to single mass in 07+. They are right about resurfacing the flywheel. It can't be done, or at least it isn't recommended. The dual mass flywheel clutch kit is significantly more expensive than the single mass (almost $300 more on fredbeans). Most people go with a single mass clutch kit when doing the clutch on our cars because its cheaper and it gives you have the option of resurfacing the flywheel the next time your clutch goes. http://www.fredbeansparts.com/index.php/subaru-legacy-gt-o-e-m-clutch-kit-s.html Edit: the price they quoted you must be for a dual mass flywheel. See if they'll do a single mass kit for less. Splinter fucked around with this message at 09:18 on Feb 19, 2011 |
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Feb 19, 2011 09:13
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allonblack posted:http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gr-wheels-tires-braking-handling-classifieds/210659-sti-stoptech-pads-blow-out-110-free-shipping.html gently caress that vendor btw. min advertised price is something like 135 for that. time to bitch at stoptech.
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Feb 19, 2011 09:27
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Time to see how far a dealership will go in terms of just getting poo poo fixed right. Reported some issues with my parking break during an oil change last week, it pulled excessively 'high' and there was play when it was 'down', enough so that after releasing the brake if I hit a big enough bump it could cause the handle to bump high enough to register the brake as on and throw a light on my dash. They couldn't fix it so they ordered a new assembly which they installed today. On the drive home after picking it up I noticed that the parking brake boot is no longer fitting properly onto the handle. It's most noticeable when the brake is off and the lever down, essentially the boot no longer seems to stay 'attached' to the handle, and when the brake is off it pulls back to reveal a quarter to half inch of the lever itself. I know it's a relatively minor nitpick, but goddamn it wasn't like that when I took it in and now that I've seen it I can't possibly unsee it. I'll call on Monday and just hope they're willing to fix it without making a fuss.
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Feb 19, 2011 09:40
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DJ Commie posted:EBC Redstuffs are very aggressive and wouldn't work very well on a street driven car with low ambient temperatures (like winter), yellowstuffs are less aggressive than the Reds with more variance in environments they would work in. I have red's in the STI they utterly loving 100% suck. They barely stop the car better than standard STI pads and the pedal feel is dreadful. In fact EBC is flat out something I will not use. DS3000/DS2500 for me. Oh and wadda know, blew a rear strut. Nice to have spare STI replacements that slip tight in place
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Feb 19, 2011 11:33
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I just bought a 2008 Outback base with 30k miles on it and I have a few questions. 1: Where can I find a foglight kit? Or would it be cheaper to have a dealership install it? 2: I'm looking to find some stock Alloys to replace my steel rims. Is there a good place to find a set online or should I look around for some local used tire shops? 3: It still has a few months left on the bumper to bumper warranty, would I be able to have the dealership fix the fogged up driver side headlight cover? I traded in my 2009 Nissan Sentra and I couldn't be happier. 
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Feb 19, 2011 18:44
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Telven posted:2: I'm looking to find some stock Alloys to replace my steel rims. Is there a good place to find a set online or should I look around for some local used tire shops? quote:3: It still has a few months left on the bumper to bumper warranty, would I be able to have the dealership fix the fogged up driver side headlight cover?
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Feb 19, 2011 19:51
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Yay, I got the first half of my timing belt replacement done in that I have the radiator out and the timing belt covers removed. The part that I thought was going to be the worst (the crank bolt) ended up being dead simple and it was the radiator hoses that pissed me off the most. I just put the car in 3rd with the parking brake on and with bricks behind the wheels. Then I slipped the jack handle over my breaker bar for a quick and easy extension and it popped right off. One thing that's bothering me as I have it apart. I bought all new idler pulleys for reassembly. Now, in every photograph I've seen of the timing belt covers as well as every picture of every timing kit I've seen has the top and bottom idler pulley as being the same part. Mine, however, look different.  Both replacement pulleys I have look like the top one. I'M ASSUMING it's OK and that the pulley design just changed over time (mine is a very early '02, assembled in July 2001). I just wanted to confirm. Edit: It looks like Gates says it's OK. http://www.fastwrx.com/gatibepa.html quote:IMPORTANT NOTE: Gates includes two of the same idler pulleys in place of two different ones that Subaru uses. (The stock Subaru one has orange plastic in the center.) The pulleys are interchangeable, and the non-orange design has better longevity since the bearing loads are spread over a greater area. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Feb 20, 2011 |
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Feb 19, 2011 23:56
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The upper idler sees a higher load and has dual bearings in it. At some point subaru dropped the single bearing idler because it was pointless to use different ones. Also I have a video on youtube with some timing belt installation tips. Posting from a phone so I can't give you the link but my username on there is jamalb704 I think
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Feb 20, 2011 00:39
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That'd be this one? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1PunROR3VU
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Feb 20, 2011 01:14
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Yup, I've watched that one and I've also watched Meaty's guide as well from Nasioc http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2111702 which goes over the whole thing start to finish. Quick question, the car rolled a bit while I was loosening the crank bolt. Obviously that means the engine was rotating backwards. I assume that's not a problem for it when the timing belt is fully on since there exists the possibility that a car could roll backward in gear if parked on a steep incline. On that note, can anyone explain why you can only rotate the driver's side pulleys in a specific direction when the timing belt is off? Since you can rotate them a full 360 degrees as long as it's in the right direction, it doesn't seem like interference is the issue here. This seems especially odd for the bottom driver's pulley since you rotate it in the opposite direction as it normally rotates.
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Feb 20, 2011 01:53
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It really depends how you put them on. If for some reason you put the driver exhaust cam on first you need to rotate the intake cam only clockwise that 1/4 turn or the valves will hit eachother
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Feb 20, 2011 05:01
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Is there a reason I can't seem to find 17" steel wheels for winter? I have a set of wheels for winter currently, but they have a lot of spokes, and thus allow a lot of snow to become caked on the inside of the wheel. Driving on the highway with this is basically like taking a whole bunch of wheel weights and chucking them haphazardly onto the inside of the wheel. While it's not a huge pain to clean them out (I just use a scraper handle), I'd love a better long-term solution, like ordinary, black steel wheels, which don't seem to be available bigger than 16". Thoughts? It seems really silly not to make them with the prevalence of stock 17"+ wheels on the market these days.
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Feb 20, 2011 16:12
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I hate coolant hoses that haven't been removed for 9 years. That is all. Edit: And now my progress has ground to a halt until I source a new bolt for the small blue idler pulley. My original was a single bearing pulley but the replacement is double bearing. The bolt is 7mm too short. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Feb 20, 2011 |
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Feb 20, 2011 22:48
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yeah there's an "A" kit and "B" kit depending on year. Thread pitch is M8x1.25
jamal fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Feb 21, 2011 |
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Feb 21, 2011 01:04
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bull3964 posted:I hate coolant hoses that haven't been removed for 9 years.
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Feb 21, 2011 01:51
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OK, I snagged an M8x1.25 60mm bolt at Lowes. The correct length of bolt for that sized pulley is 56mm, so this one is 4mm too long. So, multiple choice time. a) Do nothing. I'm not sure if there's enough depth in the hole to use a 60mm long bolt without bottoming out on the block and screwing up the torque specs though. b) Cut the 4mm off. My only worry here is I don't have a die so the threads may get screwed up on the end. c) Shim it with a washer or two. I picked up a bag of 8mm washers to go with it. This seems like the best option. It looks like those washers should be about 1.6mm thick so two should do the trick. I just wanted to be sure there was no issue in using washers. It is a class 8.8 which I assume is strong enough. It's actually a hex cap screw and not a hex bolt, but from what I'm reading that's likely the correct designation of what's being used already and that they are commonly called bolts.
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Feb 21, 2011 21:03
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bull3964 posted:OK, I snagged an M8x1.25 60mm bolt at Lowes. The correct length of bolt for that sized pulley is 56mm, so this one is 4mm too long. Take a piece of mechanic's wire and stick it into the bolt hole to use as a depth guide. Measure this distance. Then measure the inside of the bearing surface that the bolt has to pass through using the same method if needed. Add your two measurements together and that is the maximum allowable length of a bolt in that hole. Also, class 8.8 is the same as SAE 5 - which is a soft bolt, but would probably work fine. I always use metric 10.9 (which equates to a SAE Grade 8) on anything that goes on the car.
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Feb 21, 2011 21:36
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I don't think I'm going to get anything better than an 8.8 without special ordering. I have basically two choices, Lowes or Home Depot, and they carry pretty much the same. I checked out what autozone carries and it looks like they are all 8.8 as well. Good call about measuring the depth of the hole though. Sometimes you overlook the simplest of things.
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Feb 21, 2011 21:46
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bull3964 posted:Good call about measuring the depth of the hole though. Sometimes you overlook the simplest of things. It's what we're here for.  It's how I measured bolts for my custom diff mount setup on the wagon. It will tell you the max and min depth of your bolt which gives you a ballpark for finding bolts. As for finding hardened bolts, I've always had to go to a specialty nut&bolt place (luckily, I'm in a fairly industrial town and have several - Fastenal, Brafasco, etc) to find my specialty bolts. Then again, most people don't have this in their own garage.  I'm working on getting a good stock on hardened bolts that I deal with the most - I love simply replacing them when doing a job instead of re-using. (Those are class 10 and 12 metric M6 bolts) 
Sockington fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Feb 21, 2011 |
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Feb 21, 2011 21:54
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My local Princess Auto is always out of bolt gauges when I'm there, otherwise I would have already sorted my "misc bolts" jar into the nice storage containers I have for new bolts. There's nothing nicer than replacing old raunchy bolts with brand new shiny hardware.
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Feb 21, 2011 22:19
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I loving hate Subaru handbrakes. I hate anything that looks like a drum That is all.
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Feb 21, 2011 22:21
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Jamal A while back you mentioned that an ALK was your favorite/first install. I still haven't done one yet but have a track day coming up and would like to bang it out before then. I'm looking at the Whiteline kit for the GR's of which there are 3. Any suggestions as to which one I should grab? Am I looking at a great improvement no matter which one? Also, currently I have the RCA installed is the front control arm kit something worth looking into along with the ALK? allonblack fucked around with this message at 06:58 on Feb 22, 2011 |
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Feb 22, 2011 06:55
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I bought the Comfort set, which was jamal's suggestion for my car. I assume that the GR is the same way. Please note that the ALK will bump your car into SM in Solo; dunno about what it would do for Solosprint or other track events. Then again, even my rear diff lockout bolts bump me into SM... 
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Feb 22, 2011 07:07
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I bought the Comfort set, which was jamal's suggestion for my car. I assume that the GR is the same way. Excellent thanks! I actually don't give a poo poo about the class stuff, I autocross with a couple of local groups not SCCA and really just for the fun of it. This the guy I want Jamal? Can I order it from you? http://www.aqmotorsports.com/whiteline-alk-p-4473.html allonblack fucked around with this message at 07:20 on Feb 22, 2011 |
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Feb 22, 2011 07:13
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yes alks are the best GRs only get standard and race with a spherical bearing. Both have advantages/disadvantages. Some people were reporting failures of the ALK when they came out where the urethane would come apart. They revised it for the better and all the ones that I personally saw fail were installed at the wrong angle causing extra load on the bushing. The race version won't have that problem but will make the ride louder. The other problem is that spherical bearings don't last forever especially when you don't keep them completely sealed from the elements. The sleeves on the powerflex bushing (which seemed like the best option) are having a tendency to pop out of the control arm. So anyway, that one you linked to is the one I recommend. I even have a couple on order but they're all spoken for.
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Feb 22, 2011 07:54
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Horray! The car is alive. Got it all reassembled tonight, filled it up with coolant, held my breath, turned the key, and NO BOOM! I let it run for about 30 seconds, topping off the coolant. Then I put the cap on and brought it up to operating temp. It rose to the normal mark and then sat so it seems that the new thermostat and everything is working well and I have most of the air out of the system. Test drive is going to have to wait though, we got dumped on with about 6 inches of snow tonight. It's not 100% put back together yet anyways. I still have to put the alternator cover, snorkus, and underbody cover back on. Now I'm just going to have to get over my fear of revving it. Logic tells me that if it didn't blow up in the first 10 seconds, it's going to be fine, but it will take me awhile to get over it.
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Feb 22, 2011 07:56
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yeah I'm always nervous after I put a motor together or install a timing belt. This thing: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0 is great for bleeding the cooling system. stick it in the upper tank and let the car run for 15min.
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Feb 22, 2011 07:58
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Yeah, that would take some of the tedium out of it. But I only really ever had problems with bubbles in the system the first time I did it. Sucks that I have an '02 and there's no radiator cap either to fill up. I have to do it all from the turbo. I was expecting more issues this time since I had the waterpump off, but it seems like it's ok.
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Feb 22, 2011 08:03
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 Click here for the full 800x533 image.  Click here for the full 800x533 image. Love seeing the wind pattern on the snow after the first drive
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Feb 22, 2011 18:18
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I have a choice between one of these cars 2008 2.5i Outback basic model, 37,000 miles, standard stuff 2007 2.5i Premium Outback, 31,000 miles, leather seats and poo poo, sunroofs, etc. Leaning towards the 2007, but are there any mechanical or technical differences between the 2007 and 2008 models that I should take into consideration? Edit: Ok, also gotta throw in this one too. I really liked the H6, seemed a helluva lot smoother. Also has a hitch that would come in handy. Only worry would be all the electronics, dunno if subarus are flaky in that dept. 2008 3.0R Outback LL Bean, 43,000 miles, loaded. Includes the integrated GPS that I don't really give 2 shits about. Everything else is pretty cool. Begby fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Feb 22, 2011 |
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Feb 22, 2011 18:23
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Our 08 forester sounds like she tossed a wheel bearing, off to the dealer thursday after only 67,000 worry free miles. I should probably have them both changed right?
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Feb 23, 2011 02:30
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Welp. Here's my Subaru ownership story so far. Traded in my '01 4Runner on a 2007 Legacy GT on Feb. 11th. Bought it from a little podunk used car lot about 3 hours from home. They gave me a great trade in price on the 4Runner, car was clean, took it for a drive, no weird issues. Car was behind on it's 60k service but I figured it was no big deal, I'd get it done soon. Exactly one week later, weird grinding noises if you hold it at 3k RPM. Thought it was the turbo. I limped it around a few miles last weekend and on Monday to get to work (stayed out of boost), the soonest any local Subaru dealer could get me in was today. So I got it down to the dealer for a diagnosis, and they were actually really good. I've never been to a dealer this accommodating (didn't even charge me for the 2 hour diagnosis). Bad news, according to them the turbo is shot and possibly the engine. The car came with a 30 day/1k mile warranty from the podunk car lot, so I called them right after and they sent a flatbed to haul it back for service. In the meantime, I get a sweet rear end Saturn Vue for a loaner. I don't blame the car really, the PO most likely beat on it. It's too bad too, even in just 10 days of ownership I've really fallen in love with the car. Hopefully they'll just replace what needs replaced with a minimal amount of trying to gently caress with me, and I can just get back to driving it. And really, I guess it could have worked out way worse. I haven't heard anything yet, but at this point I'm looking at at least a new turbo, possibly an engine. I see it as something like adopting an animal from a shelter, you grab some poor abused thing and give it a good home and make it happy again 
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Feb 23, 2011 04:07
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I think those generation Legacys eat turbos prematurely due to some issues with a filter starving the turbo of oil, or something along those lines.
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Feb 23, 2011 05:26
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Banjo bolt problems, I think. I bet the 08+ WRX/STI will have to look out for those eventually too. Get them to do a compression test and a leakdown on it before you take receipt of the car after any maintenance - you want to make sure that the engine is still good, and even if you have to pay for it yourself I'd rather be out the money for a leakdown test than a new shortblock down the road. edit: Yep, the banjo bolt has filters inside it. Good call. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:48 on Feb 23, 2011 |
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Feb 23, 2011 05:44
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literally just posted:I think those generation Legacys eat turbos prematurely due to some issues with a filter starving the turbo of oil, or something along those lines. My turbo still works though at 92k. Full boost and all that. Engine blowed up though. Leakdown and compression are a must. My car is a testament to a car working almost perfect with a blown motor. My motor likely blew at around 60k and still runs sans lights at 92k. Loses more oil than the deepwater horizon though. Which can be another cause of turbo failure. many oil eater owners didn't check oil enough (my car can go from F to L on the dipstick in 1 fillup) and that can cause starvation issues. nm fucked around with this message at 09:15 on Feb 23, 2011 |
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Feb 23, 2011 09:12
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I did read about the banjo bolts, I've been spending a lot of time at the LGT forums recently. And I'm definitely planning on a thorough once-over of the car after it's running again. My biggest concern at the moment is that the little car lot is gonna call me back once they're done tearing it down and try to gently caress me around with the repairs. They seem nice enough, but they're car salesman. Guess we'll see.
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Feb 23, 2011 13:12
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http://www.subaru-global.com/boxersports.html So the new Subaru side of the Subaru/Toyota alliance is going to be RWD after all. I'm hoping that a turbo is what they use to differentiate it form the Toyota.
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Feb 23, 2011 16:10
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allonblack posted:http://www.subaru-global.com/boxersports.html Keep in mind that's the global site. There's still some uncertainty as to whether or not Subaru will release an non-AWD car in America.
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Feb 23, 2011 16:38
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FENCH DIGGITY posted:I don't blame the car really, the PO most likely beat on it. It's too bad too, even in just 10 days of ownership I've really fallen in love with the car. Hopefully they'll just replace what needs replaced with a minimal amount of trying to gently caress with me, and I can just get back to driving it. And really, I guess it could have worked out way worse. I haven't heard anything yet, but at this point I'm looking at at least a new turbo, possibly an engine. I see it as something like adopting an animal from a shelter, you grab some poor abused thing and give it a good home and make it happy again
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Feb 23, 2011 19:22
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As DJ Commie said long ago, there's no way they could keep those proportions and run an AWD transmission behind a boxer motor; it'd have to be RWD. Subaru in the US doesn't seem to be as vocal about talking to its community/fanbase outside of official channels, but it is weird that they haven't floated the idea of expanding the brand with a small car that ditches AWD for sportiness.
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Feb 23, 2011 19:22
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