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DrDork posted:I strongly feel that 120Hz is more or less a gimmick unless ... you're seriously into high-end competitive FPS/timing games. Several days after building a new PC (running Win7) I thought "oh I can try those glasses out now" so I fire up WOW (which is listed as having excellent support of the glasses) had a bit of a play and have made the following observations: - Requires adjustment, the remote sensor has a knob for strength of effect (ie: how much further something 10 feet away looks than something 5 feet away) which you would probably have to adjust between games. - The second adjustment, which controls where the 0-point is for Z-axis (and may be game specific) exposes some of the flaw's with the way this is implemented - at it's default lowest setting, everything goes "into the monitor", nothing pops out and the closest objects look like they are at monitor-distance. As this is kind of boring you might want to turn it up, the problem with doing this is that some stuff won't get affected. For example WOW's hud is always at 0-point, which means close objects look closer than the hud which is still rendered on top, and this conflict sorta of fucks with your eyes - they could fix this by applying the effect to the hud but that would make it look less solid, and also limit how close the hud can be to the left and right edges of the screen. I ended up leaving this setting on about 10% which had my WOW character at 0-point distance. - LCD's aren't fast enough to do it right - you can see ghosts of the image intended for the other eye and this makes non-0-point things look less solid. Plasma TV's probably don't have this issue. - It's probably better than the 60hz->30hz glasses from years ago, but it still hurts your eyes after a while, maybe it's from the lighting in the room, but both incandescent and CFL lights appear to flicker (I'm in a 50hz mains country, 60hz power might look better but as I doubt it's synced it could also make it worse by causing strange interference patterns). Oh and god help you if you look at a CRT monitor while wearing these things. I guess the most telling thing is that when I started an instance (instead of just wondering around seeing how things look) I turned the 3D off almost immediately and haven't really touched it since. Not money wasted because I never bought the screen for the 3D, and I am glad tech like this is creating a push for 120hz because in my opinion 60hz is just too low - and I've been using CRT's as gaming monitors until now solely for this reason. Most of you buying a screen today would be better served getting a nice IPS panel instead because I doubt the 60hz is as much of an issue for you, I just hope we'll eventually see 120hz IPS screens. Fuzz1111 fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Feb 14, 2011 |
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Feb 14, 2011 05:07
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Fuzz1111 posted:This is why I got mine (ASUS VG236H and QuakeLive being the screen and main game in question) I didn't even care about 3D, infact I couldn't use the 3D kit which came with it until recently, because I was still using Windows XP. Welp, I think you've just sold me off of grabbing the VG236H. I was really looking foward to trying it out, but honestly it sounds like the tech isn't mature enough yet to really benefit from it. I mostly will be playing WoW, BFBC2, and SWTOR when it comes out. Would the U2711 be terrible for gaming? I've wanted a large ( > 24") screen but the only thing holding me off from going for either the Apple Cinema Display or U2711 was the response times / input lag.
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Feb 14, 2011 07:01
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Red87 posted:Would the U2711 be terrible for gaming? I've wanted a large ( > 24") screen but the only thing holding me off from going for either the Apple Cinema Display or U2711 was the response times / input lag. As long as you're not planning on playing seriously competitive FPS (like top-100 ranked CS or Quake type games) or crazy Asian timing games, you really won't have to worry about input lag with the Ultrasharp lineup. The biggest sticking point for the U2711 for most people is actually the AG coating, which is quite strong and can create a "sparkle" effect on large solid light colored areas (like an open Explorer window) which really bugs some people. Upside is the bugger pretty much doesn't reflect/glare ever. The ACD is the opposite: with no AG coating whatsoever, its colors "pop" a bit more and it doesn't have any "sparkle" to worry about, but you need to be careful of where you place it, because it can and will reflect/glare off of everything.
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Feb 14, 2011 07:12
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DrDork posted:The U2711 has pretty minimal input lag at something in the ~15-17ms range (about one frame).... No, I won't be doing any competitive FPSing, mostly Planetside Next and Battlefield type stuff, so input lag shouldn't be huge at all. I much prefer glossy, but where I'm moving into in a couple days is a room with lots of windows, and since I'm military they aren't fond of you putting poo poo over the windows to block off light, so I'm going to stick with the U2711. I like the 27" ACD, and could use it with my MacBook, but the lack of height adjustment and being stuck to just Display Port (And AMD cards, without buying an adapter) kind of kills it for me for PC use.
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Feb 14, 2011 10:56
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Are there any HDMI 1.4 monitors yet? I'd like to play 3D PC games as well as PS3 games, etc.
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Feb 14, 2011 13:49
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British goons, the U2311H is back on sale: http://www.aria.co.uk/SuperSpecials/Other+products/Dell+UltraSharp+U2311H+23%22+Widescreen+LCD+Monitor+-+Black+?productId=40729
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Feb 14, 2011 18:34
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Red87 posted:Welp, I think you've just sold me off of grabbing the VG236H. I was really looking foward to trying it out, but honestly it sounds like the tech isn't mature enough yet to really benefit from it. Honestly when it comes to the 3D tech itself I don't see how it's going to take off, not in any form offered today or currently in the works. I can't see myself or most people actually sitting at home and watching their movies with glasses of any sort on - for myself I could see it lasting until I got up to get a beer or whatever, which would necessitate me taking the glasses off unless I wanted to have a seizure on my way to the fridge, and once I got back I would probably go "gently caress this" and turn the 3D off rather than put the glasses back on. It just doesn't add enough to the experience for what it takes: comfort and convenience, two things important to the experience of watching movies at home. I also don't see me finding use in the glasses-less 3D techs if they limit viewing angles - requiring me to sit dead center, bolt upright for the whole movie (come to think of it the glasses-based 3D techs would require you sitting fairly upright too). It's a fun gimmick, good for a trip to the cinema, not for everyday TV and movie viewing. Oh who am I kidding? It doesn't matter how practical or well implemented the tech is, all that matters is how well they push it on idiots buying their next TV.
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Feb 15, 2011 00:19
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Fuzz1111 posted:It's a fun gimmick, good for a trip to the cinema, not for everyday TV and movie viewing. Oh who am I kidding? It doesn't matter how practical or well implemented the tech is, all that matters is how well they push it on idiots buying their next TV.
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Feb 15, 2011 00:27
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Does the Windows picture viewer use some kind of oddball colour palette? On my IPS panels it looks just slightly bluish vs. solid white, but on my PVA panel it has some weird cream colour to the whites. Both panel types are set to sRGB and I cannot for the life of me tweak the reds on the PVA to overcome this problem. Am I stuck renting a colorimeter? I'd almost rather buy another IPS and try to pawn my PVA off, but that's $500.
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Feb 15, 2011 04:27
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Shumagorath posted:Does the Windows picture viewer use some kind of oddball colour palette? On my IPS panels it looks just slightly bluish vs. solid white, but on my PVA panel it has some weird cream colour to the whites.
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Feb 15, 2011 04:40
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Is there such thing as a budget 27" that is still pretty good? I have a MBP. I could care less about gaming or extra features, but I code and email for 8-10 hours a day and want to upgrade from my current 22" external. I just need something that's going to do a good job of making my desktop really big without breaking the bank.
hmm yes fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Feb 15, 2011 |
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Feb 15, 2011 05:09
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atastypie posted:Is there such thing as a budget 27" that is still pretty good? I have a MBP. I could care less about gaming, but I code and email for 8-10 hours a day. I think Planar or similar make 26"/27" screens that are decently "budget".
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Feb 15, 2011 05:11
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DrDork posted:Picture Viewer is a color managed application. It's probable that you've got messed up color profiles applied for your monitors, causing the difference. By contrast, IE is not color managed, so you shouldn't see as much of a difference in images there.
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Feb 15, 2011 05:14
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Shumagorath posted:The only colour management I'm using in software is lowering red levels on that panel through Catalyst. Using the panel OSDs everything is set to sRGB. Where else would those profiles be managed? 1. Click Start, type Color Management in the Start Search box, and then press ENTER. 2. In the Color Management dialog box, click to select the Use my settings for this device check box. 3. In the Profiles associated with this device list, click the color profile that you want to remove, and then click Remove. Note If you receive a warning message, click Yes. 4. Close the Color Management dialog box and then restart the computer to apply the setting. Obviously where it says to remove the profile, you can opt to set it to whatever you want.
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Feb 15, 2011 05:19
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Thanks, that did it. Setting all three panels to sRGB and dropping the reds on the PVA has put them almost on equal footing as far as white goes.
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Feb 16, 2011 06:03
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Did some digging around here and couldn't find anyone posting a similar question to this. I'm sorry if it's a little stupid. I currently run dual monitors primarily for work reasons. They are 19 inch 4:3 monitors. But I'm very interested in upgrading to a large widescreen to use as my primary and then maybe a smaller one off to the side as a secondary. My problem is that I can't seem to come up with a solution where the height on both monitors is the same since 4:3 monitors are non-existent and I can't figure out a smaller widescreen monitor that I can turn vertically to use that matches up. Does anyone have any suggestions for a dual monitor setup like this that would match up height wise? I know it's a silly request and I shouldn't care about that, but it always bothers me when both monitors aren't matched up. The best scenario I came up with was a 27 inch 16:9 monitor as my primary and a 22 inch 4:3 as my secondary. But can't seem to really find a decent 4:3 in that size anywhere.
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Feb 17, 2011 02:05
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Niwrad posted:Did some digging around here and couldn't find anyone posting a similar question to this. I'm sorry if it's a little stupid. What calculations are you trying to do? 19" 4:3 has a height of 11.4" (sqrt(19^2/(4^2+3^2))*3) Similar height displays would be: 22" 16:10, with a height of 11.65" (sqrt(22^2/(16^2+10^2))*10) 23" 16:9, with a height of 11.27" (sqrt(23^2/(16^2+9^2))*9) edit: or are you saying you also want to replace the 4:3 with something bigger? Anyway, find a 4:3 monitor you think looks alright and just multiply the diagonal by 1.132 to find the diagonal of a similar-height 16:10 or by 1.224 to find it for a 16:9 .random fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Feb 17, 2011 |
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Feb 17, 2011 04:51
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Thanks. I'm looking at a 27 inch widescreen so the 4:3 would need to be upgraded to a larger size. A 22 inch 4:3 would be perfect, but my problem is that I can't seem to find anyone selling those things anymore. It seems like my only options are widescreens which I don't want two of. So maybe my question is more where can I buy these things? And perhaps if anyone has recommendations from their own dual monitor setup as to what should be used alongside a larger widescreen.
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Feb 17, 2011 14:42
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NEC still do 21" 4:3 screens but they're pretty expensive. http://www.necdisplay.com/Products/Product/?product=d8151f76-c8c8-4061-9e08-6f4e9d628dfc Would be cheaper to get a 30" and then a 20" widescreen in portrait next to it. 
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Feb 17, 2011 15:04
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Niwrad posted:Thanks. I'm looking at a 27 inch widescreen so the 4:3 would need to be upgraded to a larger size. A 22 inch 4:3 would be perfect, but my problem is that I can't seem to find anyone selling those things anymore. It seems like my only options are widescreens which I don't want two of. I use a 24" Dell 1920x1080 as my main monitor with my older 19" 5:4 1280x1024 monitor next to it. The heights almost match up. It's close enough to not bother me, but I'm not very picky about it either. I don't think you'll find anything that would match up with a 27" well. If you've got the budget for a 27" you could also run dual 24" instead. brainwrinkle fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Feb 17, 2011 |
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Feb 17, 2011 19:15
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Probably the only feasible 4:3/widescreen matching would be a 1600x1200 monitor paired with a 1920x1200 monitor. A 21" 4:3 would have almost exactly the same height as a 24" 16:10. A 24" 4:3 would have almost exactly the same height as a 27" 16:10. However, at 27" you're probably gonna see a 2560-width widescreen, giving you a height of 1440 for 16:9, 1600 for 16:10, or 1920 for 4:3. There aren't any 4:3 or even 5:4 standard resolutions to match those heights. The closest is 2048x1536 (4:3), or maybe 2560x2048 (5:4). But good luck finding a panel that does that.
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Feb 17, 2011 19:44
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Thanks. I made a mistake, my 19 inch is 5:4. I might just turn that portrait and run it next to a 27 inch widescreen. Should be somewhat close height wise. Or just get two 23" ones which are actually relatively cheap from what I see. Kind of disappointed that there aren't better setups for dual monitor folks.
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Feb 17, 2011 20:26
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Manny posted:NEC still do 21" 4:3 screens but they're pretty expensive. This is what I've been thinking of doing... I've got a 24" 1920x1200 IPS display I'm still happy with but I want more space. I'm thinking I'll get a couple 20" 1600x1200 side monitors for now and when I get the cash or my main display dies I can upgrade to a 30" 2560x1600 and still use the 20s in portrait. Here's a neat site for playing around with multi-monitor configs.
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Feb 18, 2011 11:29
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Anyone using Dynamic Contrast in the U2311H game preset? It seems to make the whites more intense and the blacks deeper. On the other hand, I've heard Dynamic Contrast can drastically shorten the lifespan of monitor/hdtv...is this true?
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Feb 18, 2011 13:53
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Paino posted:Anyone using Dynamic Contrast in the U2311H game preset? It seems to make the whites more intense and the blacks deeper. On the other hand, I've heard Dynamic Contrast can drastically shorten the lifespan of monitor/hdtv...is this true?
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Feb 18, 2011 20:26
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So does anyone here have experience with getting a PS3 to play nicely with a U2410? I picked up the 2410 for the huge variety of input options (this thing is essentially going to perform double duty as a TV/console display in addition to a computer monitor) and I adore it so far, but for some reason my PS3 slim doesn't want to seem to display above 480p on it. It's connected via HDMI, for the record. (And god I love that it can output sound to the soundbar right there it is awesome  )
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Feb 19, 2011 03:51
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SpaceDrake posted:So does anyone here have experience with getting a PS3 to play nicely with a U2410?
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Feb 19, 2011 04:09
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Well, it's a brand new HDMI cable so I hope it isn't damaged  and it's from people I trust so I don't think it's a bum cable.Plus, this is, like, trying to up the display resolution in the friggin main menu; I don't think HDCP should matter there, should it? I may try bumming around for another cable, though. Is there anything else that can make the PS3 trip up, though? Color modes or wide modes, maybe?
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Feb 19, 2011 04:46
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I need to RMA my U2311H  Turned on the monitor, and had a small clump of stuck blue pixels that appeared in the top center of the screen. I had a few dead pixels, and backlight bleed as well, but didnt want to send this thing back just for that. It is still the best monitor ive ever owned, but not worth $290 to deal with this kind of poo poo. What is the easiest way to do this? When calling them, is it ok if I just have a customer number and the serial number for the monitor? I never created a dell premier account or anything like that when buying the thing. My invoice says I have the "3 Year limited warranty advanced exchange" so I hope im good to go.
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Feb 19, 2011 05:21
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Avalanche posted:I need to RMA my U2311H You should be fine, call them up and give them the serial number and order # (if you have it). They'll overnight or 2-day you a new monitor, put old one in that box, attach shipping label and back home it goes. Just RMA'd my 2 year old 2209WA with only the serial number, it is pretty painless.
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Feb 19, 2011 17:43
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Avalanche posted:My invoice says I have the "3 Year limited warranty advanced exchange" so I hope im good to go.
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Feb 19, 2011 19:29
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U2311H U2311H U2407WFP  Click here to view the full image Now for the interminable wait for a 6990. Or I might get a 6970 in the mean time. Having a hard time deciding...
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Feb 20, 2011 17:28
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I need some advice and hopefully this is the right place to ask. I've recently been allowed to work from home, so I've taken all my work equipment home with me. Now the problem is my desk isn't really big enough to have two completely separate computers going on it. I was looking to get a KVM switch so I could go dual-monitor and use one keyboard and mouse for both computers. However, all the DVI-capable KVM switches I saw looked fairly expensive. Someone also told me about a program called Synergy that would allow me to use one keyboard/mouse for both computers, although the monitors would still be separate. However, I'd really like to go dual-monitor instead of having one monitor for each since there wouldn't really be any scenarios where I'd be using both computers simultaneously. Any suggestions on how to get this set up in the cheapest/most space efficient way possible?
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Feb 20, 2011 22:33
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I am kind of confused, would this work? http://www.inputdirector.com/
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Feb 20, 2011 22:40
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That's just like Synergy. If you don't want to pay for a DVI KVM, then I think your options are going to be remote desktop, using VGA instead of DVI, or going manual on the video part. If your monitors will accept more than one DVI/HDMI input, you can use the input switching on your monitor.
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Feb 20, 2011 22:59
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Flippycunt posted:Any suggestions on how to get this set up in the cheapest/most space efficient way possible?
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Feb 20, 2011 23:11
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Well, one monitor has a VGA and a DVI input, and the other has a VGA and an HDMI input. How does input switching work? Would it be possible to have one computer (my personal) hooked up with DVI/HDMI, and my work computer hooked up with VGA cables or something?
Class Warcraft fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Feb 20, 2011 |
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Feb 20, 2011 23:32
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Flippycunt posted:Well, one monitor has a VGA and a DVI input, and the other has a VGA and an HDMI input. How does input switching work? Would it be possible to have one computer (my personal) hooked up with DVI/HDMI, and my work computer hooked up with VGA cables or something?
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Feb 20, 2011 23:42
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DrDork posted:Yes, exactly like that. Then on the monitors themselves, there's usually an option via the OSD (or a button) to select which input to use, and you can swap freely between them. You can then use something like Synergy to control both computers from one keyboard/mouse. Note that VGA displays have noticeably lower visual quality than their DVI/HDMI counterparts. Awesome. Having my work computer running off VGA will be fine. I don't use it for anything graphic heavy. Thanks!
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Feb 20, 2011 23:46
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Ok I got my monitors all set up and working but I'm running into a problem. In a lot of my games the cursor isn't confined to a single screen, but jumps screens if I scroll too far to the right. Does anyone know a good way to stop this? It's driving me nuts.
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Feb 21, 2011 04:35
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