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Local guy has had a 2005 CRF450R that has been given the SM treatment for sale for about 6 months with no bites. Quick search showed they are about 220 pounds dry and 55hp vs ~300 pounds and <40hp of my DRZ. I may go take it for a test ride this weekend. Only thing that worries me is maintenance schedule...this is for dirt riding. quote:Oil changes and a clean air filter are an absolute must. People will debate, but the general consensus seems to be about 5 hours for an oil change, and your air filter depends on the riding conditions, anywhere from every ride to rarely. As far as 30 hours on the valves go, you can go much, much longer if you do your maintenance and keep it off the rev limiter Would it even be worth thinking about as a track/gap toy and very occasional commuter with a schedule like that?
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Feb 18, 2011 14:30
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NitroSpazzz posted:Local guy has had a 2005 CRF450R that has been given the SM treatment for sale for about 6 months with no bites. Quick search showed they are about 220 pounds dry and 55hp vs ~300 pounds and <40hp of my DRZ. I may go take it for a test ride this weekend. If you keep in mind that it's a race bike converted for the street and don't mind wrenching on it frequently, go for it if it's cheap enough! Keeping on top of oil changes is CRITICAL. The thing is 4t race bikes just don't have much capacity. You're looking at 1L tops, and only they have a tiny little cartridge filter. If your commute includes traffic (and you're not willing to hop curbs or ditches to keep moving...) you're likely to overheat. They have small radiators and no fans, so if you're stationary and idling it doesn't take long to get HOT. I have seen people fit small e-fans to help combat this, but the surface area of the rads are so small it doesn't help much. They're not designed to sit still while running. But, if you're getting as a second bike and mainly as a track/fun ride bike... fuckin go for it.
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Feb 18, 2011 15:54
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Think I need to sit down and figure out what I want out of a motard. I've got the SV for commuting/trips, KDX for dirt, YSR125 for track/gap so the motard right now is just kind of a spare bike that mainly sees track days and the gap... Really just need to decide if I want something that stupid for the street and if I can live with the service intervals. Might be better off with a bike made just slightly more for the street SXV 450/550 or Husky 450/510. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Feb 18, 2011 |
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Feb 18, 2011 16:20
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NitroSpazzz posted:the motard right now is for wheelies and staircases Solved that for you.
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Feb 18, 2011 16:39
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NitroSpazzz posted:Think I need to sit down and figure out what I want out of a motard. I've got the SV for commuting/trips, KDX for dirt, YSR125 for track/gap so the motard right now is just kind of a spare bike that mainly sees track days and the gap... poo poo if you've got that many in the stable I say go for it. A husky 450 is going to have similar maintenance intervals as the CRF, and unless you're getting a 08+ SXV they're basically ticking timebombs due to the case sealant issue. Also gotta split the case for a loving clutch change  The nice thing about dirtbikes is although they take frequent maintenance, they're designed to be easily maintained -- oil changes are quick and easy, most parts you're going to replace/etc all the time are easy to get to. For example it takes me like 1/3 the time or less to change the oil in my YZ compared to the 625.
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Feb 18, 2011 18:41
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What is a reasonable price for a used DRZ now? I have been looking for a good deal for over a month and cannot find one look http://raleigh.craigslist.org/search/mca?query=supermoto&srchType=A&minAsk=&maxAsk= Aren't these unreasonable prices? The dealership said I can get a 400sm 4700 new before taxes and some freight charge That WR250x sold this morning btw, I was going to look at it this afternoon  edit should I be looking somewhere else?
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Feb 19, 2011 19:41
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Prices on DRZ's seem to be all over the place, especially the SM's. Keep in mind that usually in the spring prices on motorcycle is slightly higher but still 5k for a used DRZ is pretty bad. On a semi-related note if I can make up my mind as to what I want a supermoto for and what kind of maintenance I can deal with I'm in Knoxville and would pry be looking to sell my 07 for 4k or less.
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Feb 19, 2011 19:54
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That 05 in Salisbury might be a good deal. I'd show up, kick the tires, it probably needs a chain and sprockets, maybe tires, and offer him $3500 in hundreds. A stack of cash is really hard to turn down.
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Feb 19, 2011 20:03
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Cool, shot him an email. The guy asking 4700 called me after I sent him an email asking if the price was negotiable, I told him Larry at team powersports can sell a new one for 4700 and he goes "well, I guess I could knock it down to 4600...." uh ok dude The WR guy just texted me back saying he sold it for 3500 That is what I was going to offer
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Feb 19, 2011 20:30
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That one @4700 has at least $2000 in extra stuff on it, not that it should really effect the price that much.
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Feb 19, 2011 20:55
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DRZ prices in Australia suck. At the moment it'd be cheaper to buy a bike from the states and have it shipped across, since the cheapest I can get a decent condition, road legal, DRZ in AU is $5000 and they're all completely unmodified with 40k+km's on them. What other bikes should I consider? It's hard to find a LAMS approved sumo which I think is why the DRZ is so desirable.
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Feb 20, 2011 03:32
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Ive been looking at a few SMs locally too, Ephphatha. For every high km DRZ there are at least one or two old Husky 450s or LC4 KTM's, but they are probably more of a pain to live with than I want from a maintenance perspective..
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Feb 20, 2011 04:14
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Ephphatha posted:What other bikes should I consider? It's hard to find a LAMS approved sumo which I think is why the DRZ is so desirable. Incorrect, shitloads of sumos are LAMS approved, they're just all ridiculous. I mean poo poo, SXVs are LAMS approved.
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Feb 20, 2011 08:15
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Pretty much everything but the 690's and later LC4's are LAMS I think. I looked around for about 8 months for a good 2nd hand DRZ SM, I even bought another bike whilst I was looking. In the end I just bought one New to save loving around.
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Feb 20, 2011 08:24
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I don't think it's necessarily that LAMS sumos are hard to find, more that there just aren't a lot of sumos out there at all. When I was looking for my 640 (non-LAMS) there were maybe 1 or 2 other 640s for sale in the whole state.
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Feb 20, 2011 08:51
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I looked at drz's for a while when I first got the license but as you say they're stupid expensive. I've just settled for a gs500 till I get off my p's then I'll grab something orange
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Feb 20, 2011 09:06
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I think I'm just gonna post a wanted ad for a supermoto on kijiji because I've been craving a sumo really bad lately. There isn't even any DRZs to be had around here. Last summer I think there were about 3 for sale and all around $6000. Closest thing to a sumo for sale right now is a 530 EXC for $6800. Maybe I'll put my FZ6 up for trade for a sumo.
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Feb 20, 2011 16:03
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 That's a lot of sumo
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Feb 20, 2011 22:52
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I 12 o'clocked my DRZ a few days ago learning to shift in a wheelie. I goosed it in second trying to get to third... and apparently gave it too much that time lol. If I hadn't been wearing jeans I would be unscathed, but thanks to being foolish I have a bit of roadrash on my knee and rear end.  The sub-frame looks fine, though the tail light mount weld did snap on one side. Handlebars/mounts are trashed, and the rear tire is missing some chunks, but its in great shape considering it tumbled end over end down the road. I ordered a red Fatbar and a GPR stabilizer (comes with the handlebar mounts,) now I just have to pick a tail kit.
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Feb 21, 2011 00:54
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Christoff posted:That's a lot of sumo Thats a really slender naked bike 
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Feb 21, 2011 00:56
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Hibajubwa posted:I 12 o'clocked my DRZ a few days ago learning to shift in a wheelie. I hope that GoPro means you got some nice video of your crash! Goondolences on your misfortune, but as you said, you got off pretty light for watching your bike cartwheel away from you.
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Feb 21, 2011 01:02
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Phat_Albert posted:Thats a really slender naked bike At what point is it still a sumo, really? Might as well be a big duke or something. Do they make dukes that big? I want a duke. Is there a point in having duke AND sumo? In the duke 690 and supermoto 690 which out performs the other in speed/handling?
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Feb 21, 2011 01:06
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Christoff posted:At what point is it still a sumo, really? Might as well be a big duke or something.
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Feb 21, 2011 01:24
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Friend of friends bike on right. What do you guys think? (Of the wheels) He has put a lot of work into that bike.
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Feb 21, 2011 10:46
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Christoff posted:At what point is it still a sumo, really? Might as well be a big duke or something. The 990 is not a sumo, it's somewhere between sumo and naked. It's a fantastic bike but you can't hoon it like the smaller bikes. I've used the 990 Super Duke, honestly I wasn't that enamoured with it, I couldn't wait to get back to my SMC, although it did look fantastic in white. Of the 990s the one I would have is the SMT; Comfortable, looks cool, smooth v-twin power.
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Feb 21, 2011 13:09
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Good news, everyone! I posted a couple pages back asking if anyone knew if the DRZ was available in Guam, and no one answered. Well, after some intense googling (and trawling through the horrible english on supermotojunkies) I have discovered that not only are there some available on the island, there is also a track! Hopefully be up and running on one by May/June at the latest, getting there in April.
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Feb 21, 2011 20:05
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Can we get back to what's really important and discuss lofting monster wheelies for a moment? More specifically, maybe we can talk about how to learn to do that  I've been playing around on my new-to-me DRZ for a bit now, and am having some trouble figuring out how it all needs to come together. I've been working on clutching it up at low speeds in second gear, with limited success. Currently, I'm suspicious that I'm just not grabbing enough throttle, but I'm also not sure about my position on the seat, the timing of gas vs. clutch, and how the hell people manage to cover the rear brake on this thing when it seems like the lever is actually above the peg itself.
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Feb 21, 2011 20:07
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toolshed posted:Can we get back to what's really important and discuss lofting monster wheelies for a moment? Yeah I agree. Are you leaning forward? For me, the problem was I would tend to lean forward automatically when the front end came up which, while maybe not making much different on a sportbike, completely kills it on a sub-300lb supermoto. Also I tended to sit to far forward, as I was used to that for hustling around turns. Once I realized what I was doing and that I needed to change my body position, I could start fighting that urge and really pull up/lean back. I've only done them in first, though and I still mostly suck as well. As for covering the rear brake, I have the same problem. On my Ninja (which I don't wheelie on purpose) the rear brake is nice and low and would be easy to cover if I was trying to wheelie it, but on my Husky it's drat high and can't even be adjusted any lower, so I end up trying to curl my foot up to cover it while managing everything else. Most of the time I end up not covering it, which I should.
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Feb 21, 2011 20:58
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The TL;DR version of how to wheelie: Find the power band. Where does the torque and power really hit? Know that. Then... "power wheelie" 1) Sit back. No you are not far enough back. BACK. 2) Roll on... roll off, closed throttle, let the front dip, then immediately full throttle. - You are trying to load and then unload the suspension, providing a bit of bounce. The full throttle should happen right at where the power band kicks in for your bike. No use going full throttle if the engine is just going to bog. You need to do it right in the sweet spot. 3) At the same time as #2... pull up. Ever wheelied a bicycle? Same story. Depending on your bike.. the speed you are going and the gear you are trying to wheelie in, more or less may be required. The above will get you in the air in 1st and 2nd on a DRZ, on the 690, only liberal throttle is needed, but @ 45 MPH in 3rd gear, it'll get you results. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrXgRtw_jR0 "Clutch-up" Basically the same story, except you slip the clutch for just a moment to build up revs and 'drop' all the power at once. 1) Get to a low cruising speed, engine just below the power band 2) Sit back. BACK I tells you! 3) Pull the clutch in for a moment while at the same time opening the throttle wide open. Build a few thousand revs.. two thousand or so past where your powerband really starts I find is the sweet spot. 4) Drop clutch and stay on that throttle. Where most people gently caress these things up: You are not leaning back far enough/and or you are leaning forward and shutting the throttle down as soon as the front wheel comes up. You just need to get more comfortable. At higher speeds, or with less powerful bikes, body positioning and how much you can yank up on the bars at the right moments is key. This is why it looks so easy when people stand on the back of the seat... it makes it a shitload easier. Scary though. Just take it slow and if it's not working for you just know you need to want it more. More throttle, more body positioning, better timing and you'll go big soon enough. About covering the rear brake: It is very hard to do on a sumo given how they are designed. You'll get used to it. Practice stomping on the rear brake to bring the front back down when you are doing a wheelie that is totally under control. Just kick for the rear brake. Learn how to find it. It'll save your bacon when you accidentally wheelie to 2:30.
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Feb 21, 2011 21:19
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Regarding brake pedal position... Move it to where it works for you  . You can easily adjust the height of the pedal with just a couple end wrenches and a minute or two of your time.
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Feb 21, 2011 21:40
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If you need an explanation about how to look stupid and do wheelies, you probably shouldn't try do them at all.
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Feb 21, 2011 22:00
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Retsalb posted:If you need an explanation about how to look stupid and do wheelies, you probably shouldn't try do them at all. Just wait until my next question on how to make my own mohawk helmet and faux-Icon jacket. I think I probably just need a bit more practice. My monster seems to wheelie a lot more predictably than the DRZ but, having seen all the videos out there, I'm sure that's on me. As for the rear brake, I looked at it briefly last night and it really doesn't look like I could adjust it to the point where the pedal is below the peg. The piston that drives it just isn't long enough to allow that amount of adjustment.
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Feb 21, 2011 22:14
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Good deal or bad deal? 2006 Suzuki DRZ400SM Athena 440 Big Bore Kit Hot Cams Stage 2 Intake and Exhaust cams Hot Cams Valve Springs and Shims Kibble White Titanium Valves FCR39 Flat Slide Carb with Zipty pilot needle Full Scorpion Exhaust K&N filter 3x3 air box mod AMR graphics kit Avon Distanzia tires with ~2500 miles on them Guy says it's been dropped once on the right side at low speed, and is asking 3000. Doesn't say how many miles on the bike, though.
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Feb 21, 2011 23:43
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Depending on miles that's probably fair. Ask when the valves were last checked. (And the miles.)
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Feb 22, 2011 00:17
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iwentdoodie posted:Guy says it's been dropped once on the right side at low speed Drops for these bikes are like dents on Land Rovers, honestly you start asking more questions if they claim it hasn't been down.
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Feb 22, 2011 00:45
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ReelBigLizard posted:Drops for these bikes are like dents on Land Rovers, honestly you start asking more questions if they claim it hasn't been down. Oh, I agree, I grew up riding dirt so drops don't bother me. I wish it had taken the dumbass graphics off the bike, though. It has like skulls and poo poo on the tank. I'm all about motards being flashy, but c'mon. It's not a 70s metal van. (Now, watch, this is going to be someone on here's bike.)
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Feb 22, 2011 00:50
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I found it easier to learn wheelies by clutching up in 1st in a parking lot. Just get going to a rolling 5mph, clutch in, rev up a bit, clutch out quickly and stay on the gas. For a long time I wouldn't even reach the balance point, I'd just get the front off the ground a bit and use the torque in first gear to keep it up for a few seconds before running out of gearing. After a month or so of occasional practice I've started hitting the balance point and can cruise with less throttle. I've done a few clutch-ups in second but you really need to rev the beans off it and the speeds are higher. If you gently caress up in first gear you're only going 15mph or so. That said, first gear is touchy and you'll want to slowly work up the amount of throttle needed to loft it - don't just balls out wide open throttle and dump the clutch. I'm not too keen on power-wheelies and trying to bounce the front-end off the ground - seems a bit ham-fisted for my delicate sensibilities.
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Feb 22, 2011 01:03
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 Why the husky always gotta be breaking down, bro? You haven't experienced a proper group ride until you've experienced a SUMO group ride. Hell, you haven't experienced life until you ride a sumo.  Then of course we had to leave before all the harley dudes showed up and jumped us for not fitting in. I want to start an ironic super moto gang so bad. Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Feb 22, 2011 |
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Feb 22, 2011 02:06
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Update on the bike I posted about earlier: Bike has 14900 on it, 4900 on all the mods (everything was done at 10K), valves last checked 2500 miles ago. It's all sounding good to me, but that may be because I really want one.
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Feb 22, 2011 02:16
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iwentdoodie posted:Good deal or bad deal? Do a search on the thumpertalk drz forum to find drz expert sisineros's opinion on the kibblewhite valves.
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Feb 22, 2011 03:01
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