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Circus Pies! posted:A Sawsaw is obviously a speciality tool used to cut other saws. We call recipro saws for "bayonet saws" or "tiger saws" in Norway, the former is most common. It is also a fantastic name IMO. There is a trend going where osculating multi-tools are called "Fein saws" even here. We usually don't associate brands with an instrument so it will probably fade in time.
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Feb 23, 2011 10:30
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Iskariot posted:It's equally confusing to hear/read about "Skilsaws". To me (and probably the rest of Europe) Skil is just a brand and now even a lovely one. In Norwegian the direct translation is "hand circular saw". I live in the US, and I was really only obliquely aware of the term skilsaw until I saw a bunch of ads for them on craigslist when looking for other stuff. To me they've always been circular saws. I concede that could also refer to a table saw or radial arm saw, but I just call those table saws and RASs. The only thing in my lexicon that seems to be at odds with the world at large is that my dad always called his jigsaw a sabersaw. I gather to most people a sabersaw is a sawzall type tool rather than the small jigsaw.
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Feb 23, 2011 19:54
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I just want to say that I proudly use kleenex, scotch tape, velcro, and band-aids, regardless of the brand. 
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Feb 23, 2011 20:00
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No replies so I take it the design isn't too bad. How would you cut the post? Id use a coping saw but I dont think it could get in far enough. Pare away with a chisel?
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Feb 24, 2011 03:00
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How are you going to fill that gap in the back, where the slot continues? I'd make an overlap joint with the wood from the horizontal piece sticking out. That joint wont be the most bothersome, it's those two angled tenons that I'd be concerned about.
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Feb 24, 2011 03:06
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IsaacNewton posted:How are you going to fill that gap in the back, where the slot continues? This is what I wanted to say, but I couldn't remember exactly what you called it. I was gonna say lap joint, but that's welding. Every realty sign in the world is just an overlap joint; I guess you could call it a giant rear end dado the thickness of the pieces of wood and half that thickness deep.
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Feb 24, 2011 03:17
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Doh, don't know why I didn't think of that. Thanks (I was going to patch a block onto the tail to fix the gap) The corner support, hm, don't know. Maybe a floating tenon would be best. I'm not totally adverse to having exposed fasteners either so I could do that as well
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Feb 24, 2011 04:18
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Use a single biscuit inside the joint.
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Feb 24, 2011 05:14
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For the angled support you could start with a wider board and cut off some scrap to form a single board with two flat pieces sticking out the ends at 45 degrees, from which you can form the tenons. The white lines represent the scrap and the red lines indicate where the support will intersect the two other pieces. I'm not sure if you are actually supposed to do this as obviously the tenons will be 45 degrees to the long grain, so not as strong. 
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Feb 24, 2011 05:39
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truncated aardvar posted:For the angled support you could start with a wider board and cut off some scrap to form a single board with two flat pieces sticking out the ends at 45 degrees, from which you can form the tenons. I think a mitered tenon (I believe that is the name for it) would be a more traditional type of 45 degree joint to use in a situation like this. However, I'm not sure what the best way to cut the mortises would be. Edit: This guy calls it a Mitered Halved Corner Joint. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Feb 24, 2011 |
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Feb 24, 2011 19:53
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I thought of that but it would make cuttin the mortise a little tougher. Of course you'd waste a lot less wood  I'm still a pre-novice at this stuff so I'm enjoying the learning.
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Feb 25, 2011 02:29
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So I bought the stanley plane, the guy at the flea market didn't know what he did with the little block plane, and he walked over to his van, and it was full of poo poo and he only had one leg so I said gently caress it and just got the stanley for now. I've been sanding down the faces of the plane body, and GOD drat that's the hardest steel I've ever come across. The entire thing has got to be made out of tool steel. Its ridiculous. But I guess that's a good thing. Got the blade, wedge and chip breakers and associated knobs (besides the brass-looking ones) and nuts in some "purple power", soaking.
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Feb 27, 2011 01:36
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Wood Goons, I need finish advice. My project is coming together, I'm assembled, rough sanded, filled, and 80-grit sanded. Next weekend I plan to hit is with 120-grit, and if the temps warm up a bit, I hope to start the first few coats of poly. WHAT Poly is the question. I am using Eastern Hard Maple and Purpleheart in the project, so I have two competing requirements for my finish: 1) I want it water-clear for the Maple and to retain as much bright purple as I can on the purpleheart. 2) I need UV protection for the Purpleheart (If you've never used purpleheart before, working it turns it brown, but after a couple days in the sun it is back to bright purple, but then extended UV exposure dulls it out again). I've seen 100 different suggestions for what to use on the Purpleheart, mostly the spar finishes, but I don't want *any* ambering, if possible. The first advice I got was from an old boatbuilder friend of mine at work. He suggested Daly's ProFin, but again, no UV protection. Looking at Daly's site I noticed the SeaFin Aquaspar which has tons of UV protection, but I can't find anything about how it ages. The latest advice I got from my dad was for the Minwax wipe-on poly, but I could not find any info about it's UV protection ability. Here's the interesting thing: I have access to a UV Chamber at work. I'm not sure of the exact sun correlation, but the drat thing blasts UV at anything you can fit in it. I was thinking of building up a checkerboard block of Maple and Purpleheart (something like a trivet or something that I could potentially use in the future) and put 3-4 finishes on the corners and then take it to work and leave it there overnight. So, besides the ProFin, SeaFin, and Minwax Wipe-On, do you guys have any other suggestions to what to use? Sorry for the bad phone photos, but here's a couple of shots of where I am at:  Wood Detail  Face Parts  Sides & Base
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Feb 28, 2011 05:30
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In regards to router bits, how much does the shank diameter matter? I'm asking more along the lines of, are 1/2" shank router bits superior to 1/4"? I've been looking at a lot of molding bits lately and it seems that they're all pretty much 1/2" shanks only. The router I have can only take 1/4" bits. Am I pretty much screwed with my 1/4" router, or are there options out there and I just need to keep digging?
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Mar 1, 2011 01:53
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jvick posted:In regards to router bits, how much does the shank diameter matter? I'm asking more along the lines of, are 1/2" shank router bits superior to 1/4"? I've been looking at a lot of molding bits lately and it seems that they're all pretty much 1/2" shanks only. The router I have can only take 1/4" bits. Am I pretty much screwed with my 1/4" router, or are there options out there and I just need to keep digging? 1/2" shanked bits have less vibration and are less prone to bending or snapping. When it comes to heavy duty tasks like molding, you want a stronger shank. I remember several people stating some variation on: 'large cutting heads need to be supported by a large shank'.
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Mar 1, 2011 02:09
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Yeah, less vibration, less chatter against the work and less variation in the cut with a thicker shank. It's also safer as it's less prone to snapping. You won't find heavy bits on a 1/4" shank, or at least you shouldn't. Imagine a heavy chunk of steel spinning on top a 1/4" rod at 28,000 RPM (that's 466 revolutions per second). That kind of speed scares the crap out of me. Ideally you want a router that can take 1/2" bits, because they'll generally accept 1/4" bits too.
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Mar 1, 2011 03:17
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http://lumberjocks.com/projects I stumbled upon this site today, lots of great projects here
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Mar 3, 2011 18:43
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I'll warn you now I'm an amateur and am very new to this hobby. This is pretty much my second project. I got frustrated with all the boxes in my room today and decided I'd make myself an easy shelf to get some more practice with my router and new tools. My skill level is still fairly low so I kept things simple and cheap by making this out of a sheet of plywood. I figured I'd share some pictures of the process: My janky work site:  yes, I used that jig saw to make all of my longer cuts. I seperated a smaller piece of the plywood for the shelves to make things easier then ripped the one piece.   I did the same thing for the sides, and I routed the one piece before ripping it so I knew the grooves would line up.  I had to get creative with my clamps to set the glue since the shelves are 5' long  click for larger size Here it is as a free standing structure!  And finally as a functioning shelf in my room:  I did not put any finish on the wood since I don't plan on staying at this place much longer. The project was spur of the moment and was intended more as practice for me. Despite my back killing me right now, I am loving this hobby. I am excited to get a real work area once I have a place of my own and can store real tools. I appreciate and welcome any feedback and/or comments. Thanks fellas! jvick fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Mar 6, 2011 |
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Mar 6, 2011 03:36
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It looks great. But know that with any real weight, its going to bow/sag in the middle. In fact, don't put anything too heavy on it, 'cause I figure those dado joints can't support too much. But I think it looks great. Nice job.
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Mar 6, 2011 04:17
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Thanks, I am pretty happy with it. I don't plan on putting anything heavy on the top shelf, but the bottom is pretty well supported. I actually had a piece cut to go in the middle, but the one time I didn't measure twice ended up screwing me. But for what its purpose is, it's fine. In hindsight, I should have gone a bit deeper on the dado's. They're just about a 1/4 of an inch right now.
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Mar 6, 2011 04:58
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jvick posted:Thanks, I am pretty happy with it. I don't plan on putting anything heavy on the top shelf, but the bottom is pretty well supported. I actually had a piece cut to go in the middle, but the one time I didn't measure twice ended up screwing me. But for what its purpose is, it's fine. In hindsight, I should have gone a bit deeper on the dado's. They're just about a 1/4 of an inch right now. You know what, I have found that every time I don't measure twice, and even sometimes when I do, it comes back to bite me. 
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Mar 6, 2011 05:01
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Also, those are beautiful flowers you got there; are those some kind of tulip? edit:meant tulip not lily 2nd edit: no, I meant lily, not tulip. Yeah. lily. is what I meant. whose tuggin fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Mar 6, 2011 |
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Mar 6, 2011 05:02
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3/4 ply can carry only around 15psf at a 5' span before bending. A center support would give you 5 times more load bearing capability Pretty good use for a single sheet though (Those are calla lilies btw)
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Mar 6, 2011 05:38
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dwoloz posted:3/4 ply can carry only around 15psf at a 5' span before bending. A center support would give you 5 times more load bearing capability Wow, I had no idea about any of that (except the flowers). That's good information to know for future projects.
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Mar 6, 2011 05:51
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Plywood span table has all the juicy details http://www.pacificwoodlaminates.com/img/PDFs/APA/APA_LoadSpanTables.pdf
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Mar 6, 2011 07:11
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OK wood goons, I'm just getting into woodworking (parents got me a set of Milwaukee M18 stuff for christmas), and one thing I'm really starting to realize would be nice would be a router. I was walking around in Lowe's yesterday, and saw that they dropped the price on the Bosch 2 1/4 HP combo fixed/plunge kit to $179, the lowest I've seen it anywhere. Then by chance I checked out Woodcraft's site (I have a local one, too), and the Triton routers are both on sale. So I guess the question is, are a plunge and fixed-base router both really necessary, or can you get away with using a good plunge router for fixed-base jobs? And which of those two (the Bosch or one of the Tritons) would you guys recommend? And if the answer is neither, than what router would you recommend?
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Mar 6, 2011 14:46
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I have that Bosch kit and like it a lot. You can use the plunge base for pretty much anything and then if you ever have a router table you can leave the fixed base mounted in that for a quick change.
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Mar 6, 2011 16:47
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Well, let's just say we live in a fantasy land where costs be damned. Seriously. Let's say that. It makes me feel better.  In that case, I am routinely amazed at the poo poo the "Wood Whisperer" dude gets to play with. He's sponsored by festool, after all. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U3Q58SKDAEA I left a comment on this video: "I would definitely gently caress this up. I have the dexterity of Michael J. Fox." But it didn't get approved (I didn't know that the comments had to get approved first) and now I feel like a troll.
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Mar 6, 2011 17:04
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The Wood Whisperers poo poo consistently causes me to burn with envy. The table saw in particular blows my mind, as well as his compound miter.
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Mar 6, 2011 17:18
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The Scientist posted:Well, let's just say we live in a fantasy land where costs be damned. Seriously. Let's say that. It makes me feel better. I just found his app for the iPhone last month and have been watching some of his videos that way. I was surprised how young the guy is. I too envy the man. But drat is he talented!
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Mar 6, 2011 22:15
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Sigh. I've been using a planer sled to joint some of my larger pieces. My sled is pretty big (about 48" or so) and I needed to joint something smaller, (~20"). Well, I was partly lazy (didn't build a smaller sled to begin with, didn't want to build one now) and just stuck it on the sled and got really bad results in oh so many ways. * The sled never really balanced on the planer with such an odd weight distribution Which led to... * The wood didn't create a properly flat face. I ended up just cutting a bunch of wood. * The sled lost balance and a piece near the end made out of metal hit the planer blades, so now the blades are damaged. The blades are Reversable I think? So I might be able to just flip them to get out of buying new blades (haven't flipped them yet) but I'm pretty bummed right now. My results were great with larger boards on the sled, but with small stock on such a large sled I had a rough time. =\ So now I'll need to fix the blades, probably build a planer sled that's more appropriately sized.... and I'll be buying more wood. Lessons learned I guess.
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Mar 6, 2011 23:54
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I think perhaps everything that could have possibly gone wrong did. The good news is that I think all the blades are designed to be sharpened time and time again. Isn't that why there's that long slot in the center, so it can be sharpened infinite times without the change in overall length of the blade becoming problematic? edit: Wait are you talking about a power planer?
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Mar 7, 2011 01:13
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Whelp...... So I restored this knockoff antique (post-wwII) stanley #4 plane and a couple stanley blades, I sanded the poo poo out of it, made sure all the sides were true, sanded all the way up to like 600 in some instances, primed it, painted it, and everything was looking great. Black semigloss. Then I had the spread out, painted parts sitting on the balcony and left the sliding door open 'cause its feeling nice outside, and my pup stole the wood knob that normally goes on the front (I think it might be hickory or cherry or something) and sat down right next to me inside and proceeded to chew the gently caress out of it. Its irreparable - in pieces. Its a bummer, it really tied the plane together dude. I don't know how I'm gonna go about finding or making a new one now. Any suggestions?
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Mar 8, 2011 02:09
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The Scientist posted:I don't know how I'm gonna go about finding or making a new one now. Any suggestions? Contact walt at brass city records to see if he has a spare lying about? Either that or post a wanted listing on the woodweb forums. Do you know what brand the plane is? Do you have pictures?
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Mar 8, 2011 03:19
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I'm pretty sure its just a Stanley knockoff, and not that old either (from what I've gathered through some casual googling); it's a #4. Really I'm a little bummed but not too worried about authenticity. Figured a short while after I bought it that I was just gonna use it myself. So all I really need is a knob that I can put on there so I can use it. I'm waiting for access to digital camera, 'cause not only does this plane look nice painted, but I've also made a drawknife and a froe all from a helper leaf spring from an '86 Ford F250 I got at an auto salvage yard for $10.
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Mar 8, 2011 05:32
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The Scientist posted:I think perhaps everything that could have possibly gone wrong did. This was a power planer. I haven't looked at the blades, but it's a dewalt lunchbox planer (dw734). Sorry to hear about your knob. Err.. you know what I mean. Hope you find a replacement.
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Mar 8, 2011 06:15
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I had some large hardwood sleepers/beams that I removed from a garden bed at the front of my house. The largest would weigh, I estimated, in excess of 150kg (330lb) despite them having a fair amount of insect damage and rot through parts of them. I managed to drag one for about four metres before deciding to use my brain. I found a length of thickish curtain rod I'd been saving for something like this so I cut it up and made four rollers - finally those history lessons on ancient Egypt actually paid off! I was able to get them around to the side of the house without killing myself. I got home from work today and decided to start cutting them up - with a $50 circular saw naturally.  The plan is to cut it all up into sneaky sized pieces to dispose of in the dumpster at work. I cut down the smallest one this afternoon which took a while, since the blade only went 1/3 of the way into the wood.  Anyway, to make a long story slightly less long and to get to the point of the thread, there seems to be a fair amount of salvageable hardwood in there. I cut off a strip and put a bit of oil on it to see what it would look like. I even managed to take some pictures in the the dying sunlight (excuse the Android phone pics)   I'm glad I used a cheap saw blade to cut through that nail. Would you guys try and salvage some of this or just toss it? There is extensive rot but there are pretty nice chunks that I guess could be used for small pieces, laminate strips, etc. I'd say they've been there almost as long as the house, which is over 20 years old, so it would be nice to make something for the house out of it. I couldn't tell you what wood it is - some kind of Aussie hardwood. It has interesting, if not dramatic grain, although the end-grain seemed quite wavy in places. I'm guessing it's got a relatively high humidity content, as it's been in the ground for so long, so it would pay to let it dry out for at least six months. That suits me, as I've decided to do a lot of home maintenance and renovation projects before delving too deeply into woodworking. I also don't have anything to mill this and I'd obviously need a metal detector of some kind because there are much bigger nails in these things.  The Scientist posted:I'm pretty sure its just a Stanley knockoff, and not that old either (from what I've gathered through some casual googling); it's a #4. Really I'm a little bummed but not too worried about authenticity. Figured a short while after I bought it that I was just gonna use it myself. So all I really need is a knob that I can put on there so I can use it. Surely a missing wooden knob is an excuse for a small project?
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Mar 8, 2011 10:06
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truncated aardvar posted:Surely a missing wooden knob is an excuse for a small project? I know several people that would use it as an excuse to buy a wood lathe.
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Mar 8, 2011 16:18
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truncated aardvar posted:I had some large hardwood sleepers/beams that I removed from a garden bed at the front of my house. The largest would weigh, I estimated, in excess of 150kg (330lb) despite them having a fair amount of insect damage and rot through parts of them.
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Mar 9, 2011 03:12
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Railroad ties are filled with all sorts of toxic junk; I wouldn't touch it I say salvage as much as you can but that's just me. You should see my backyard, its full of random salvaged wood
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Mar 9, 2011 05:25
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