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veedubfreak posted:Isn't gorilla glue pretty much a gel though, should be easy enough to go at it with dental floss and some goo be gone like you would any other badge. Also seconding the take the entire jetta off. First thing I did to mine was debadge it, I left the GLI on though Eh...I've Googled a bit about how to remove Gorilla Glue and a few places recommend Goo Gone. I have some but I'm not going to mess with it now, since the dealer is going to take care of it. As far as removing the Jetta, I agree, it looks nice but this is my wife's car and she likes it the way it is so that's that. 
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Feb 25, 2011 01:39
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my1999gsr posted:VW Certification is kind of an interesting thing. For us to have a VW dealer license at least one of our techs must be VW certified. To be certified we have to complete 5 SSPs (Self Study Programs) and pass a multiple choice test for each one plus we have to take part in at least one ILT (Instructor Led Training) per year to maintain our certification. There's lots of excellent technicians out there that aren't VW certified. I've never put much stock in being certified but the required ILTs can be very important - they're usually 2-4 day tutorials on specific systems in specific vehicles and they have a LOT of information that you can't get anywhere else. The dealership is encouraged to inform customers that the techs are VW certified so they feel more comfortable during service appointments but that's about it. That's good to know. I was under the impression that it was a big deal and reality is that it's a cheese cert instead. Not that they can't be useful, but generally when you do a self-study course and then take a multiple choice test it tends to lessen the value.
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Feb 25, 2011 03:29
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I got my A4 serviced yesterday and the dealership leant me a FrontTrak A4 (2010) with the CVT transmission. One thing I kept noticing was a)how slow that gearbox was to get going from a standstill, and b)as soon as you start going at a steady speed the transmission "re-gears" and your revs drop to 1000 rpm (sometimes slightly lower), which also means that you get rather unpleasant vibrations and the impression that you might be on your way to stalling the engine. Is that normal? If so, that is a really awful gearbox.
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Feb 25, 2011 04:00
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Deget posted:That's good to know. I was under the impression that it was a big deal and reality is that it's a cheese cert instead. Not that they can't be useful, but generally when you do a self-study course and then take a multiple choice test it tends to lessen the value. Yeah, VW Cert isn't that big a deal but when you get into the Specialist and Master Certification levels then it's a very big deal and that takes years and years to achieve.
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Feb 25, 2011 13:40
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el topo posted:I got my A4 serviced yesterday and the dealership leant me a FrontTrak A4 (2010) with the CVT transmission. One thing I kept noticing was a)how slow that gearbox was to get going from a standstill, and b)as soon as you start going at a steady speed the transmission "re-gears" and your revs drop to 1000 rpm (sometimes slightly lower), which also means that you get rather unpleasant vibrations and the impression that you might be on your way to stalling the engine. An A4 with the CVT as a loaner vehicle won't work as well as it should - the trans control module is a learning computer so it takes some time to adapt to each driver's style. It's also possible that the transmission is having a problem of some kind but that's always possible.
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Feb 25, 2011 13:42
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my1999gsr posted:OK, well let's see what happens with your MIL/EPC concern now. It shouldn't take long at all to diagnose a parking brake issue since there's only a few things that can cause the problems you're having and believe me, they're all very familiar to a VW shop with any experience at all. Well, I'm actually "happy" for the first time in a long time. It's taken way too long and way too much money to get me here... but it feels good. It's weird driving without worrying about babying the thing. Over the last year I have kind of developed a "driving style" based on a poor running engine. My body is almost programed to "jerk" in time with the car, but the car no longer jerks, so I catch myself trying to ride out these "ebbs and flows" that aren't there. Like Pavlov's dog as soon as I start the engine my body starts rocking. "Bill" apologized again... and actually did it in a way that didn't make me want to punch him. I was plesently surprised. Thanks you again, if for nothing else to at least give me someone to vent to.
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Feb 25, 2011 15:28
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Wow, that really sucks. I've learned that anytime I feel like I'm being messed with or hosed by the dealer, I ask innocently how I'm supposed to fill out the survey as completly satisfied when obviously that's not true. I've gotten so much poo poo comped just by saying that.
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Feb 25, 2011 21:34
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LorneReams posted:Wow, that really sucks. I've learned that anytime I feel like I'm being messed with or hosed by the dealer, I ask innocently how I'm supposed to fill out the survey as completly satisfied when obviously that's not true. I've gotten so much poo poo comped just by saying that. That's awesome. I will do this from now on... right from the start. "Hi... Yeah... I just need my oil changed and do you have one of those survey sheets I could fill out while I wait?" That would be the quickest oil change I've ever gotten. Probably get the interior swept out too. VVVdamnVVV FrankeeFrankFrank fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Feb 26, 2011 |
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Feb 25, 2011 22:19
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It must really suck having no good dealers near you. I take mine to Emich for all its service (er well I did while it was under warranty now I just do it myself). They have always treated me well. I took it in for the 40k and they gave me a free loaner for the day. The last time I was there for an oil change the dude gave me a 15% coupon and like 8 of the car wash vouchers too
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Feb 25, 2011 23:14
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:Well, I'm actually "happy" for the first time in a long time. It's taken way too long and way too much money to get me here... but it feels good. No problem at all - I'm glad your car finally runs right. Get me your address and I'll send you those clips if you still want them!
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Feb 25, 2011 23:18
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Ok so I have a few questions about my '97 Jetta trek (I think that means it's a GT?). 1.) How much of a deal is it to replace the key-turney cylinder thing? Some shitbag was messing with my locks when I lived in a particularly rough part of town and like 3 weeks later I could just pull the cylinder straight out, which I did. It was neither connected to any locking mechanism nor attached to the standard alarm system. I do all my locking/unlocking/alarm setting on the passenger's side. It looks corny as gently caress to unlock the passenger door for all sorts of regular people as if you're on a 1950's date every time you give someone a ride to the store or whatever. I took off the inside door panel and it's about a square inch of access to the point where the key mechanism is and I cant think of any way to make it work without destroying the actual metal structure of the door. 2.) Just like my main man FrankeeFrankFrank I had my handbrake fail. However, this was only once about a year ago and ever since then I've been really paranoid about it failing again. That one time I came out of my apartment and some dude was talking about how he had called the police because my car had rolled into his, but I showed him through the window that the parking brake was completely up and he told me to scram before the police got there because I did try to set it. It was super super cold that day, could that have made a difference? 3.) I'm getting a newer car in March, but I think I'm gonna try to hold on to my current car rather than trading it in because the love that I feel for my little Jetta is more than the small amount of trade-in value it holds. It's from almost a decade and a half ago but it drives as solid as a rock. This car started as a "winter beater" last winter but I just fall into it like a hand into glove and it's a blast to drive even though it's really not that powerful. How fresh can I make a 97 jetta before it becomes 2 fast 2 furious highschool-ish? It's got the nice fog lights and I can get some fresh headlights, followed by a crisp shine through buffing, and getting some nasty tint for it. Is that stupid or does the boxy Jetta look good done up right? I have some more minor questions but for now I  the great God my1999gsr and pray to him for answers to my dumb questions.
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Feb 26, 2011 10:35
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John Q Russia posted:Ok so I have a few questions about my '97 Jetta trek (I think that means it's a GT?). Let's see if I can help here. 1. I'd like a photo of this problem because the outer lock cylinder can fail in a couple of ways - the cylinder can detach from the trim piece it sits in or the cylinder AND the trim piece can loosen and be removed. If it's the whole trim and cylinder it's an easy repair - there's a set screw hidden behind a little cover in the door frame that secures the assembly. Sometimes the screw gets loose and the whole thing gets sloppy and falls out. If the trim is staying intact and the cylinder can be removed then you might have to order a new cylinder because when it's removed, the cylinder's keyways can fall out and then the key won't turn/fit in the lock anymore. A temporary fix might be to swap the lock cylinder from the passenger side to the driver's side so at least you'll get some use out of it. 2. It's difficult to say for sure what caused your parking brake to fail you. Usually it's the result of either poorly adjusted cables (they stretch over time and use) or the cables have rust-seized in their sleeves so when you pull up the brake lever that movement isn't being transferred to the rear calipers. It's also possible that some water has entered the sleeves covering the parking brake cables and they froze which would result in the same behaviour as a rusted cable would. Easy way to check - grab a flashlight and shine it at the rear brake calipers while a friend pulls up on the parking brake. As soon as the slack is taken up in the parking brake handle you should be able to see some movement on the levers on each of the calipers. If your helper is able to lift the handle all the way and there's no movement at the calipers then you've got either a seized cable (or 2) or a seized parking brake lever on one or both calipers. 3. We have a few Mk/A3 Jettas that have been tastefully "modified" (modified in quotes because I'm not sure what other term to use) with better wheels, tint, and in one case, Mk/A4-style Wolfsburg seats. I think you're on the right track with minimal modifications, as far as appearance goes. If you're looking for a more entertaining driving experience there's lots of aftermarket still available for your car's generation. I've always liked the Mk3 Jetta - it's a little boxy but it's smaller than it's newer siblings and when done right it can look like it means business. I would encourage you to take a very close look at your car (particularly in the floorpan seams and brake lines) before shelling out much money - most of the cars of that generation are starting to get very weak from rust and age so they're becoming less safe so be sure to take that into consideration.
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Feb 26, 2011 16:08
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John Q Russia posted:Ok so I have a few questions about my '97 Jetta trek (I think that means it's a GT?). I always found the minimalist approach to the mk3 to look the best. I had a 1998 mk3 GTI that was tastefully lowered with a nice set of bbs rs color matched wheels. I'd start out by getting a nicer pair of wheels. Don't get anything huge, you'd be surprised how many shitheads at big vw swap meets are selling 19 inch wheels because they don't fit without a massive amount of fender butchering. Next I'd buy either springs that won't kill your shocks or just buy a decent pair of coil-overs. A lowered car looks good as long as it's not ripping the bottom of the car off on the slightest bump in the road. As for tint I'd personally go with fishbowls (untinted) or a real light tint. Then again I live in Pennsylvania and am scared shitless of getting something dark put on and then getting a fix-it ticket requiring me to pull it all off. Also forgot, removing the jetta and any badges other than the VW logo off the trunk and front grill helps clean up the look of the car. I think this looks pretty nice.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Things to avoid: Hellaflush (Lowering the car til it's smacking off rocks in the road,) Wings West bodykit, Universal Fit / Pepboys Wheels, Spoiler.
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Feb 26, 2011 20:57
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Minimal is the best on MK3s. Lowered a little, stock wheels from a different VW and tinted windows make them look sharp. Keep it clean all the time too.
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Feb 26, 2011 21:43
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Mikemo Tyson posted:I think this looks pretty nice. Mikemo Tyson posted:Things to avoid: Hellaflush (Lowering the car til it's smacking off rocks in the road,) Wings West bodykit, Universal Fit / Pepboys Wheels, Spoiler. Hmm. Alright I'm thinking of going with APR's reflash. Does it make the MKVI hard to control or otherwise suck as a daily driver? Nearly 300 ft/lbs is a lot for a relatively light FWD car. Is my car going to steer into a wall when I try to pass someone on a highway or spin the wheels every time it rains? How will the reflash affect fuel economy?
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Feb 27, 2011 01:21
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Autism Sundae posted:Hmm. Alright Not at all. I've been stage 2 for over a year now and it's pretty tame. You'll get the ESP kicking in if you gun it in lower gears, but just don't put the foot down so hard. Torque steer is a vastly overhyped problem and it's very manageable once you get used to it. However, I mainly just go quick on highways and have a little fun on curvy roads. I don't really go nuts or autocross or anything, so I have no idea how bad it will be doing that kind of thing. I actually get better gas mileage on long trips as long as I am not being an idiot with the throttle. It's only 1 or 2 mpg, on average, but it's still an increase. The overriding factor is definitely your ability to restrain your right foot. EDIT: I have a MkV, but a 2009 TSI, so same engine (though different ECU) as you.
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Feb 27, 2011 01:56
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I don't autocross either, I'd just like to have some more power - when I just got the car I thought it was pretty quick, but you get used to it very fast and then it's not really enough. How much are you making with stage 2 and what did you have to upgrade (I'm assuming intercooler and clutch)?
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Feb 27, 2011 03:17
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Stage 2 would be, at minimum, a 3" downpipe. Intake is recommended, but not required. I don't think any if the stages *require* a new intercooler. Stage 1 = Nothing Stage 2 = 3" Downpipe Stage 2+ = Upgraded HPFP Stage 3 = K04 Turbo
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Feb 27, 2011 03:37
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timb posted:Stage 2 would be, at minimum, a 3" downpipe. Technically, stage 3 is not a K04, it's usually a larger turbo than that (I think APR has the only stage 3 TSI kit). On the TSI stage 2 is stage 2+ and there is no HPFP upgrade as the stock pump is more than adequate. Stage 2 is definitely a new downpipe. I've never dynoed at all because I don't really care about the numbers at all, but it definitely is faster than stage 1. Depending on where you are, you may not pass emissions with stage 2 since it disabled readiness checks. Some people say that you can switch to a non-testpipe file that will pass the checks (might need an O2 spacer), which I will be finding out soon in September. If emissions is a huge pain in the rear end, I may end up switching back to stage 1 to avoid the hassle. Intercoolers are definitely required for K04 and above, and for stage 2 you can get heat soak in a hot environment, so it may help. I don't have it myself since it never really gets that hot in NY and I don't plan on doing anything above stage 2.
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Feb 27, 2011 04:20
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I've heard some horror stories about the clutches slipping in the TSI engines. My 2008 GTI had the FSI and was stage 1 for 14,000 miles with no problems. I know the TSI has a few design changes like the water pump and the way the high pressure fuel pump works off the cam shaft. Does the TSI have the same clutch as the FSI? Ninja edit: I'm pretty sure the APR stage 3 kit uses a GT2871. Mikemo Tyson fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Feb 27, 2011 |
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Feb 27, 2011 16:45
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Autism Sundae posted:I don't autocross either, I'd just like to have some more power - when I just got the car I thought it was pretty quick, but you get used to it very fast and then it's not really enough. How much are you making with stage 2 and what did you have to upgrade (I'm assuming intercooler and clutch)? I have a DSG so I didn't have to mess with it. The manuals do wear over time with the extra power, so far as I have read. So you'll need an upgrade there. I think Southbend makes them.
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Feb 27, 2011 21:36
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Wouldn't DSG also wear out? I'm not planning to go beyond stage 1 and APR doesn't recommend clutch replacement for that stage, but it's hard to figure out if it can cause problems after 20-30K miles.
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Feb 27, 2011 23:23
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Autism Sundae posted:Wouldn't DSG also wear out? I'm not planning to go beyond stage 1 and APR doesn't recommend clutch replacement for that stage, but it's hard to figure out if it can cause problems after 20-30K miles. I was just thinking that too. DSGs DO use clutches... I've been wondering how long they last under stock conditions myself.
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Feb 27, 2011 23:41
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They should last quite a while under stock conditions, although it's hard to say because everyone with a DSG seems to have some kind of massive failure that necessitates a replacement.
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Feb 28, 2011 07:23
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Are there any decent gauges out there besides the P3? I figure there is no point run a boost tap if you can just read off the odb port.
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Feb 28, 2011 09:34
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schindler.xls posted:Are there any decent gauges out there besides the P3? I figure there is no point run a boost tap if you can just read off the odb port. If you want to run off the OBD port, that's your only option. A mechanical boost gauge run off a tap will be more accurate. Check out NewSouth's VentPod kit with the Indigo Gauge.
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Feb 28, 2011 14:50
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Autism Sundae posted:They should last quite a while under stock conditions, although it's hard to say because everyone with a DSG seems to have some kind of massive failure that necessitates a replacement. Well the failures aren't clutch related as far as I know. Just related to the control units. The DSGs have been tested to be pretty strong according to most of the tuning houses. And when you think about it, the same DSG is holding the power in the R32 stock and in the TTS (At least I think it's the same one in the TTS). So I don't think there is an issue. There is no reason it should wear considering that the clutches are used half as much and are modulated perfectly by the car. Also, I think the DSGs are just stronger from the factory (in terms of clutches) so it won't wear like the stock manual. This is all from what I have read from tuners so it could be incorrect.
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Feb 28, 2011 16:34
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That makes sense, the thing that worries me about chipping the car is that I've never seen anyone post about putting a lot of miles (like 50K) on a chipped GTI with no issues. I'm also not sure if dealers can see whether a car has been flashed, I guess not software-wise but during installation shops do cut the bolts and take out the ECU so shouldn't that be fairly obvious? It would suck to get a warranty claim denied because of that.
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Feb 28, 2011 21:06
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Autism Sundae posted:That makes sense, the thing that worries me about chipping the car is that I've never seen anyone post about putting a lot of miles (like 50K) on a chipped GTI with no issues. Believe me, if those damned security bolts are missing when I have to pull the ECU I consider it a gift. As far as denying a claim based on that - doubtful. The ECU can be removed for lots of reasons at other shops that won't show up in the dealership service history so denying a claim based on that isn't likely.
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Feb 28, 2011 21:28
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They usually cut them off and put new ones on, but the glue or something is in tact. There is a new program for Stage 1, version 1.2. It might be free for current Stage 1 people depending on if your shop charges you for labor (and in some off cases the ECU has to be re-pulled).
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Feb 28, 2011 21:41
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Autism Sundae posted:It would suck to get a warranty claim denied because of that. I put about 35K tuned miles on my MK5 GTI 6 speed manual before I traded. It went into the dealer shop several times for TSB things and regular service. Either nobody ever noticed, or nobody cared. As soon as I can afford it I will be putting APR's tune on my B8 S4. It is certainly possible for the dealer to physically remove the ECU and look at it. But, I think it's important that the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act generally protects you from situations where manufacturers could try to "discover" reasons to deny you warranty coverage. The burden of proof that software caused the problem is on them. The upshot is that you probably don't need to be overly anxious bringing your car in for warranty service just to have them come out and say your brakes are fading because your tune bypassed an engine boost psi limit or some horseshit.
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Feb 28, 2011 21:47
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I just put mine in stock mode and nobody says anything at the dealer I go to. People go to the same dealer with stuff like intakes on, so maybe they are just more mod friendly. If you wanted to go one step further you could go into lockout mode which won't even show the program changes if you try to access it. I think it would be pretty rare they would notice like that, unless there is some kind of ECU problem and they have to work on or replace it.
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Feb 28, 2011 22:10
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JHVH-1 posted:They usually cut them off and put new ones on, but the glue or something is in tact. What's the difference between the old program and the new one? How do you like your car with stage 1, you had that for a while now right?
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Feb 28, 2011 22:14
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Autism Sundae posted:That makes sense, the thing that worries me about chipping the car is that I've never seen anyone post about putting a lot of miles (like 50K) on a chipped GTI with no issues. Well I can't comment on taking out the ECU, but the software has never been an issue for me. When I was stage 1 I had my mechatronics unit replaced without any issue in stock mode with password lockout. The dealer probably could find out if they were invested enough to do so, but I doubt they would. In terms of longevity, my car (with the same drive train basically) has been stage 1 since about 2kish, stage 2 since about 20ish and is now at 45k and I even have aftermarket motor mounts shaking the poo poo out of the car. So far the only issues were once the DSG (common), and the intake flapper (also common). Everything else has been pretty solid with the exception of the car rattling like crazy with harder mounts (to be expected). If you do go and get stage 1, definitely make yourself wait for one of APR's sales (if you are going APR). It's completely worth it to get the fully loaded ECU for lockout and everything. I love throwing on valet mode when I drop the car off to be parked. It makes me feel that much better about letting random people drive it around parking garages.
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Feb 28, 2011 23:30
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APR is flashed through the OBD port, isn't it? Also, my MKV GTI has 50k miles on it's S1 flash with no issues.
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Mar 1, 2011 00:08
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timb posted:APR is flashed through the OBD port, isn't it? Newer models have encryption that has to be bypassed by pulling the ECU. In most cases a reflash once its flashed won't require pulling again. I have around 4.5k miles since the APR flash I think. I am pretty pleased, and it is the best bang for your buck mod you can do. The 1.2 version is supposed to improve boost performance, reduce turbo lag. Probably not a huge difference. I also saw a thread they posted about an upcoming iPhone/iPod app they have planned for the future to change your options using that. Some kind of device hooked up to canbus (they haven't decided yet):  
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Mar 1, 2011 02:28
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JHVH-1 posted:Newer models have encryption that has to be bypassed by pulling the ECU. That's pretty sweet. Maybe they'll use the PLX Kiwi Bluetooth or WiFi module. What forum was that posted on? Have a link? HATE TROLL TIM fucked around with this message at 13:05 on Mar 1, 2011 |
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Mar 1, 2011 13:03
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Does anyone here have any experience with certified Audis?? Up until some idiot kid totaled my car on Valentines Day, I had driven my 98 A4 Quattro for about six years. I was going to get something new and more affordable (I loved that car to death but gently caress repairing German rides) but I cannot find a single drat new car that I care for in my price range ($20-22k max) The Audi dealership I used to go to was near a place I test drove the other day. They've got a bunch of A4s on the certified lot. I saw two different 2008s 2.0T in stick, one at 35k and another at about 40k for $19 and change and $20 and change. Audi is 4/50k for standard warranty and the certified is an additional 2/50k. So I figure I'll get a solid three years of warranty at that price. some questions... I assume that to utilize the certified warranty program, I need to go to the dealership for all my service needs. I only had to do this like twice for my last car in emergencies. How bad can I expect to get raped vs having to do the same for a new car at Nissan or Subaru or something. My price range means I'm pretty much limited to the 2.0T. How's the turbo on Audis? I went for the v6 last time around specifically to avoid those issues since I bought at like 70k. I'd have to imagine that's a big time repair... 30-40k seems like the milage I'd get, should this be a concern? Is this really the best choice for me? I was thinking of going back to Audi because I know and love the cars, and I really, really, really want AWD again and the options new cars with AWD around $20k is extremely weak. I'd be putting down $10k, loans are as low as 0.9, live at home for now and FT work at a steady job with modest pay.
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Mar 1, 2011 15:35
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timb posted:That's pretty sweet. Maybe they'll use the PLX Kiwi Bluetooth or WiFi module. This is the link but they are still down from last nights maintenance http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15379
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Mar 1, 2011 18:14
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I have a question i hope you can help me with, I'm looking to put mk4 r32 front brakes on my mk4 1.8t. I have all the parts except the splash guards for the discs on the front. I've tried ringing my local VW dealer but they want a chassis ID which obviously I can't give them. I was wondering if anyone can find out what the part numbers would be for these parts? I'm in the UK so i don't know if the part numbers will translate from the USA.
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Mar 1, 2011 18:59
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