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My 2000 TJ 4.0 did a strange thing today that I haven't been able to repeat: I started it up after I stopped at the house to shop for a trip I'm taking soon. When it started, it felt like half of the cylinders were not firing for a few seconds when it started. Over the next few seconds more of the cylinders started firing until all was normal. No CEL or rough running after that. ?
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Feb 16, 2011 05:55
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You probably have the cyl #3 heat soak issue. Basically the injector for #3 is in a bad spot so far as thermal conditions are concerned. After hot shutoff, fuel in the injector can vaporize and temporarily disrupt fuel flow to cyl #3. I don't know if you can still get the kit, but it's basically a fiberglass/aluminum shroud that surrounds the injectors and insulates them from the intake/exhaust. http://www.wjjeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wj_1803103.pdf edit: I read the TSB in full and it just suggests a wrap/sleeve for #3 injector. You could make this yourself out of, for example, flexible heat shielding fabric that you can find at some auto stores or even hardware stores. incredibull fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Feb 16, 2011 |
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Feb 16, 2011 16:37
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The #3 heatsoak is particularly annoying in Memphis summers, but the heatshield solves the problem in a matter of minutes. I'm using an ARB harness to power my Hella H4 lamps, and have a pair of Hella 530 H3 fog lights (driving lenses/reflector). I'd like to put some brighter bulbs in both since the harnesses can handle it. Are there any gold standards for either bulb type? As long as it's DOT-legal, will last a good while, and not melt the housing, I'm satisfied... not certain of whether I'd like to go with amber in the driving light or pair with the same model line used in the headlamp. So far I've been looking at PIAA Intense White in H3 and H4, though I'm not sure if the output is genuinely superior to a decent Hella bulb or if it's  .
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Feb 16, 2011 18:13
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incredibull posted:You probably have the cyl #3 heat soak issue. Basically the injector for #3 is in a bad spot so far as thermal conditions are concerned. After hot shutoff, fuel in the injector can vaporize and temporarily disrupt fuel flow to cyl #3. I don't know if you can still get the kit, but it's basically a fiberglass/aluminum shroud that surrounds the injectors and insulates them from the intake/exhaust. Sounds like that may be my issue. Its already starting to get warm here in South Texas, and I can't find non-ethanol fuel anywhere.
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Feb 17, 2011 01:44
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Here is my 97
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Feb 17, 2011 03:56
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Got a smokin' deal on some near-new BFG KM2's from craigslist. I didn't think 31's would fill up the space so much. Guess I'm going to need another leaf in the rear and +1" coils in the front, until I get my 7" long-arm and 35's anyway.
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Feb 18, 2011 23:21
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31s look huge on an XJ. I have a lifted Explorer Sport and 31s look tiny on it. You live in Tacoma? I think I've said this before but hit me up if you ever want to go wheeling in Tahuya. I live in Bremerton.
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Feb 19, 2011 07:34
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Yeah, I'm just across the bridge. I'll definitely have a 3" kit and some recovery points on sometime this spring. Strangely, I've never been to Tahuya yet.
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Feb 19, 2011 13:29
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Philip J Fry posted:Got a smokin' deal on some near-new BFG KM2's from craigslist. I didn't think 31's would fill up the space so much. Guess I'm going to need another leaf in the rear and +1" coils in the front, until I get my 7" long-arm and 35's anyway. I kinda miss my 31's. My Jeep was much more drivable with 31" mud terrains, now I have 33" swampers and driving is miserable.
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Feb 19, 2011 15:27
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New set of Silverstars in the XJ, now we can drive the Jeep at night again. Decided to get a new battery while we were at it as it was having some trouble starting on the lovely single digit days we had for a while, and the voltage related CEL went away, let's hope it stays away.
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Feb 19, 2011 17:32
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what the hell is up with your burgersig
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Feb 19, 2011 20:10
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Nevermind i found the emblems. I am picking up a set of Neon injectors on friday when i get paid, and installing a CB in my jeep first. Omg50BMG fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Feb 19, 2011 |
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Feb 19, 2011 21:00
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Can anyone recommend a towing setup for a 96 Cherokee Sport? I'm not looking to tow mountains, just a smallish trailer for a move. I'm guessing less than 2k lbs.
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Feb 20, 2011 15:23
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incredibull posted:what the hell is up with your burgersig Argh. I may have mentioned in another thread that the word Burger throws me into a fit of uncontrollable rage, so someone bought me that avatar. Not sure who.
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Feb 20, 2011 15:45
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brickswereshat posted:Can anyone recommend a towing setup for a 96 Cherokee Sport? I'm not looking to tow mountains, just a smallish trailer for a move. I'm guessing less than 2k lbs. Might as well get a class 3 hitch since most hitch inserts for trailers are going to be for a class 3. If you're handy with wiring you can just wire up a harness off of the tail lights. There isn't enough draw for trailer signals to warrant anything more that that. If you can't do wiring or drill into the uniframe, have a shop or even UHAUL do it. Probably $300 at most for a full install.
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Feb 20, 2011 21:47
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I got a v5 uhual class 3 hitch from a local scrapper for 50 bucks. I'm stealing the wiring setup off our plow Jeep, but I'm sure you could find something worthwhile for cheap. It's a matter of how much time you have and how much BS you want to deal with.
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Feb 21, 2011 04:17
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 Yesterday, I drove the YJ for the first time in about 4 months. This cold white poo poo on the ground is damned depressing.
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Feb 21, 2011 05:20
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This is what I ordered: Ball Mount 3/4" Rise or 2" Drop, 6,000 lbs T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4 Pole Trailer Connector Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" Hitch Ball with 2" Diameter and Medium Shank, 6,000 lbs GTW - Chrome I'm probably going to pay someone to install it. There's still a couple of feet of snow here and I don't feel like crawling in slush.
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Feb 21, 2011 18:33
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Well I'm going to try and mend something for the first time but I need some help. A few months ago I purhcased a 2003 Cherokee Laredo with 110,000miles on it. I am starting to hear a rotational squeak from the driver side door. It will stop whenever I put any pressure on the brakes. Currently I'm at the stage of getting my tools together but would like some advice on what I should check first.
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Feb 25, 2011 18:09
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jonathan posted:http://www.eautoworks.com/product-eautoworkscom-189849.htm is the harness. Jeepforums should be able to help you find part numbers for an e-code (european lighting standard) h4 housing for the cherokee. I just did this mod and even with my Silverstars I can already see a subtle difference. I'll be getting some e-codes and H4 bulbs soon enough though. I had a weird problem where the low beams would stay on when I flicked to the highs, and then the highs only would stay on when kicking back to low but solved all that by pulling the fog light relay. The shipping is kind of steep for just the harness...enter 'jeepforum' for a discount. 
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Feb 25, 2011 18:25
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Deverse posted:Well I'm going to try and mend something for the first time but I need some help. A few months ago I purhcased a 2003 Cherokee Laredo with 110,000miles on it. I am starting to hear a rotational squeak from the driver side door. It will stop whenever I put any pressure on the brakes. Pads probably. They have a wear indicator that squeaks when they're nearing their service limit. While you're in there pull and grease the slide pins and their boots.
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Feb 25, 2011 18:52
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Cracked manifolds strike again! Luckily i have a warranty on this jeep and they cover it. I'm going to have my mechanic check the motor mounts too while hes under the hood. Although im not sure how bad they are in only 59K miles.
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Feb 25, 2011 19:26
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Good times. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0COrKLPcj8
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Feb 27, 2011 02:53
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incredibull posted:Good times. drat that's gorgeous, I wish I could find some roads like that around here to drive on without getting beaten/stabbed to death by snowmobilers.
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Feb 27, 2011 17:44
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Yeah I felt retarded for totally forgetting my sleds.. Nothing more fun than a tow strap hooked up to a sled. I was looking to reach summit of that forest service trail, but unfortunately two guys in a Nissan hardbody were stuck going up the mountain digging themselves out with a shovel, they denied my offer of help, and they weren't able to get out of the way  so we had to go back down.Snow driving in video always looks way less challenging than it actually is.
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Feb 28, 2011 01:23
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I get enough snow driving trying to drive 45 minutes to class in Portland. Seriously I'm done with this loving winter and ready to start driving door/top less again. That said. I'll probably be looking at getting a 4wd commuter vehicle for next winter. In the meanwhile, I'll be waiting for the shop to call me back on my Wrangler. When I get it back I'll be figuring out how to mount this: 
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Feb 28, 2011 04:45
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I replaced the brake drums and shoes on my brother in law's 1997 Cherokee. Some asshat had put a left side adjuster on the right side of the axle so the brake shoes couldn't adjust.
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Feb 28, 2011 16:57
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I posted my Jeep for sale locally and got just about zero interest. If anyone here would be interested in buying it I would cut a deal: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f11/fs-99-jeep-cherokee-virginia-74096/#post826057  The mud is all washed off now and it looks pretty clean. Here is what it looks like when clean (this photo is before the shackles, spacers and add-a-leaf) 
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Mar 1, 2011 03:54
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In URE last weekend. You can see the skid plate and the huge gently caress off diff guard.
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Mar 2, 2011 23:37
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Is anyone in the DFW area willing to help me install tube fenders? I'll pay $100
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Mar 3, 2011 00:26
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Bojanglesworth posted:I posted my Jeep for sale locally and got just about zero interest. If anyone here would be interested in buying it I would cut a deal: Where is it located? Would be all over that if it was nearby.
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Mar 3, 2011 02:16
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:In URE last weekend. You can see the skid plate and the huge gently caress off diff guard. Is that the "rear end-Fart Head" diff guard or whatever they call it ? Looks like a giant scoop ?
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Mar 4, 2011 03:01
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buttface. yep.
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Mar 4, 2011 03:06
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Clank posted:Where is it located? Would be all over that if it was nearby. Virginia. Sold it last night, for $1800. Sucks, but gently caress it money talks.
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Mar 4, 2011 03:45
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The wipers on my WJ grand cherokee only work intermittently, and not the intermittent way they are meant to, they go about half way, stop, I move the switch, they go down, then I turn it back on until they get stuck again. Do these switches go bad like most other grand cherokee electrics? Is there another explanation besides bad switch?
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Mar 4, 2011 23:25
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Clank posted:Where is it located? Would be all over that if it was nearby. Where you at? I am putting my cherokee up for sale soon.
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Mar 6, 2011 11:17
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So my erratic oil pressure problem has returned. At start up it's normal but it maxes out when I hit the gas and doesn't normalize until the engine's been running for 20 minutes. So I'm thinking possibly the oil pump needs to be replaced? Thoughts?
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Mar 8, 2011 01:59
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Will 315/75/r16 (approx. 34 1/2" diameter) cooper STTs fit on a stock JK with or without spacers? Or do i need to put a lift on there first?
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Mar 8, 2011 09:07
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Elephanthead posted:The wipers on my WJ grand cherokee only work intermittently, and not the intermittent way they are meant to, they go about half way, stop, I move the switch, they go down, then I turn it back on until they get stuck again. Do these switches go bad like most other grand cherokee electrics? Is there another explanation besides bad switch? The WJ switch is similar to the TJ switch, which I've had apart a couple times now. It's possible to repair it. If you want to take yours apart, here's the rundown: the stalk moves several small sliding spring-loaded copper contact plates across a few contact points. From the factory, these parts aren't lubricated as well as they should be. On mine, some of the contact surfaces had worn down and lightly corroded, so I hit everything with 600 grit sandpaper (the copper contact surfaces, not the plastic parts, and very lightly) and coated it all with dielectric grease before reassembly. Worked great since then. Rhyno posted:So my erratic oil pressure problem has returned. At start up it's normal but it maxes out when I hit the gas and doesn't normalize until the engine's been running for 20 minutes. If the pressure is real as verified by a mechanical gauge.. I would change the oil filter first. You could potentially develop high pressure if the filter's bypass valve is opening for whatever reason, usually a restricted filter. Otherwise, you could have a pressure relief valve stuck closed, which as far as I know is part of the oil pump in the 2.5/4.0. The oil pump is capable of building pressure way past 100PSI if the valve fails incredibull fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Mar 9, 2011 |
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Mar 8, 2011 23:08
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Minion of Cthulhu posted:Will 315/75/r16 (approx. 34 1/2" diameter) cooper STTs fit on a stock JK with or without spacers? Or do i need to put a lift on there first? Showroom stock ? No. Stock ride height ? sure! You will need to do the Flat fender mod (its really easy free if you have access to a dremel tool and some cutting wheels). You will need to space the factory wheels out about 1.5", or use an aftermarket 16x8" wheel with a backspace of 4.5" or less. You will probably need to grind off the pinch seem at the front of the rear wheel wells, and shorten the factory rock slider by about 2". I had 35" pro comp extreme mt's on mine, and they didn't touch the rock rails, but they were super close. Those tires measure roughly 33.9" If I was only running a 35" tire, I would leave the vehicle stock height. Low center of gravity is all the rage these days.
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Mar 9, 2011 03:22
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