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Friend of a friend is selling an Epiphone SG, with a hard case, for $450 and I'm wishing I had $450!
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Feb 25, 2011 15:57
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| # ? May 18, 2024 01:26 |
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I have a question about checking out used amps. I have only played a purely acoustic guitar for the last couple years, but I am interested in purchasing a used amp (a Vox VT30 specifically) and electric guitar. What should I bring and look out for when evaluating the amp?
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Feb 25, 2011 18:13
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There's really not a whole lot to evaluate on a vt30. Just sit down and play with it and see if you like the sounds that come out since it has like 20 amp models or whatever. Of course if you're getting it used from somewhere your mileage may vary as to how good of a condition it's in. It's a cheap little thing that's good to get started with since it has a good variety of stuff to mess with.
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Feb 25, 2011 22:01
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Dickeye posted:Friend of a friend is selling an Epiphone SG, with a hard case, for $450 and I'm wishing I had $450! If it's an SG-310, that's way too much. If it's a G-400, it depends. Either way, once you try an SG, you won't go back. They're awesome and I'd never part with mine unless I upgraded significantly. meatcookie fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Feb 25, 2011 |
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Feb 25, 2011 22:54
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meatcookie posted:Either way, once you try an SG, you won't go back. They're awesome and I'd never part with mine unless I upgraded significantly. I had an SG when I was younger, but it got stolen in my first year of college.  Thanks for this awesome thread. I used to play guitar in high school. By that I mean I had a loud amp and looked up guitar tabs for songs that I then butchered. Well, I decided to break my old beginner guitar out of storage since I'll be moving soon and won't have internet or cable for a while, and the OP here has been extremely helpful. I'm going to try to do it right this time and take my practice seriously. Now my fingers are in some serious pain from the practicing. I also need to go out and buy a guitar strap and some cables. I don't think this strap from guitar hero is meant to hold up this heavy guitar.
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Feb 26, 2011 00:24
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meatcookie posted:If it's an SG-310, that's way too much. If it's a G-400, it depends. The only reason I'm really looking at it is I've heard they have slimmer necks, and I'd like to at least try one to see how comfortable it is, because my hand tends to get tired. The only guitars I've ever played are Strats and Teles and I have no idea how it would compare at this point.
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Feb 26, 2011 01:05
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RetardedRobots posted:Unless you are trying to do something crazy, like humbuckers on a telecaster. And working on a hollowbody/semi-hollow body can be tricky if you don't know the secret of tying strings around the pots. Internal soldering also gets tricky if your guitar has only exactly enough wire get from the pickup to the switch.
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Feb 26, 2011 02:34
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Dickeye posted:The only reason I'm really looking at it is I've heard they have slimmer necks, and I'd like to at least try one to see how comfortable it is, because my hand tends to get tired. The only guitars I've ever played are Strats and Teles and I have no idea how it would compare at this point. I've played all three and own/ed the SG and Strat (looking to add a Tele to my collection soon as well) and like all three, but I find myself using my SG for just about everything. The body makes fret access a non-issue, it doesn't weigh a ton... I could go for a bit more belly beveling like the Strat has on the back of the body but it's not annoying enough that I'd do it to mine any time soon.
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Feb 26, 2011 10:56
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Good Citizen posted:I had an SG when I was younger, but it got stolen in my first year of college. Man this is why I never brought my guitar to college. I have a Les Paul and an egnater amp and If either of those were stolen I would go apeshit. College and nice things don't mix. I have a Yamaha acoustic and it does the job while I'm in school.
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Feb 26, 2011 15:48
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If pickups "get sound" from disturbances in the magnetic field produced by the strings, how does the wood type affect sound quality on solid-body electric guitars?
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Feb 27, 2011 04:47
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My guess is the wood changes the way the strings vibrate, since you can feel the whole instrument vibrating as one when you play. If you doubt the effect of wood, go to a guitar store and play a mahogany RG, then an alder one. (I used an RG because they're all basically the same guitar with various modifications, rather than comparing a Strat to a Les Paul, since there are other differences between those besides wood)
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Feb 27, 2011 05:10
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Spider Crusoe posted:If pickups "get sound" from disturbances in the magnetic field produced by the strings, how does the wood type affect sound quality on solid-body electric guitars? Ideally you want both endpoints of the vibrating string length to be on the same (or as near as contiguous as possible) piece of wood as with a neck-thru body. The luthier who designed&built that guitar will have (one hopes) chosen the woods specifically to capture a certain tone or whatnot, maple generally sounding brighter, mahogany sounding thicker and darker and so on. Part of what makes a good tonewood is that ability to transfer vibration with as little attenuation as possible. What I find kinda funny sometimes is that all this consideration that goes into wood selection can be rendered almost moot by how the person at the Seymour Duncan production line wound the wires in the pickup. Maybe she got bored and changed from scatterwinding to progressive winding halfway through making your pickup.
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Feb 27, 2011 10:30
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After the whole restringing debacle last weekend, I think I need to redo the low E next weekend. I wrapped it too many times, and there's nowhere for the string to go when I tighten it now. The last loop takes up the bottom of the post. Oh well, it's good practice.
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Feb 27, 2011 15:43
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Dickeye posted:After the whole restringing debacle last weekend, I think I need to redo the low E next weekend. I wrapped it too many times, and there's nowhere for the string to go when I tighten it now. The last loop takes up the bottom of the post. Oh well, it's good practice. You can still tighten it so it starts overlapping, it'll look messy but all you're doing is increasing the string tension
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Feb 27, 2011 16:45
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I'm left-handed. I want to learn guitar. I have an old right-handed acoustic. What should I do, buy a left-handed guitar or try and stick with this one?
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Mar 1, 2011 02:23
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Depending on the shape, you can probably get away with just putting the strings on backwards.
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Mar 1, 2011 02:54
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Haledjian posted:I'm left-handed. I want to learn guitar. I have an old right-handed acoustic. What should I do, buy a left-handed guitar or try and stick with this one?
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Mar 1, 2011 02:54
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rt4 posted:Depending on the shape, you can probably get away with just putting the strings on backwards.
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Mar 1, 2011 02:56
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Spider Crusoe posted:I was thinking of that as well, but if the saddle is at an angle, it'll throw off the intonation. It's not great but it works in a pinch. My first 4 guitars were flipped righty's. Also Haledjian, if you do opt for just flipping it don't forget to get a lefty nut (little white or black bit right at the beginning of the fretboard that the strings rest on... the grooves are sized appropriately for the strings and if you just re-string it, the low E string won't fit in the high E's groove properly and vice-versa). Ideally I'd recommend just getting a lefty guitar; it'll be less frustrating in the long run. One of the side effects of having an improperly-angled bridge and hosed-up nut is that you'll be constantly trying to get the thing in tune/stay in tune and you won't, unless by sheer chance. VVV That's also an excellent point to take into consideration. meatcookie fucked around with this message at 08:01 on Mar 1, 2011 |
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Mar 1, 2011 03:38
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Haledjian posted:I'm left-handed. I want to learn guitar. I have an old right-handed acoustic. What should I do, buy a left-handed guitar or try and stick with this one? try to learn right handed if possible. I am a lefty who plays lefty guitars and it sucks, your selection of guitars is much smaller/more epensive and you can't play anyone else's guitars but your own.
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Mar 1, 2011 07:00
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dxt posted:try to learn right handed if possible. I am a lefty who plays lefty guitars and it sucks, your selection of guitars is much smaller/more epensive and you can't play anyone else's guitars but your own. I'm right handed, but this is good advice. Once you get into guitar, you'll want to pick up and play any guitar you see, and you won't be able to do that. One of my friends had a left-handed guitar and I found it very frustrating... I can't imagine not being able to play a right-handed guitar.
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Mar 1, 2011 20:08
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The other guitarist in my band is lefty and like everyone is saying, it's a pain in the rear end. Particularly if you ever want to get into playing 7 or 8 string guitars or anything like that, your selection is extremely limited.
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Mar 1, 2011 21:10
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1) Fuckin bar-chords. Finally starting to be able to cleanly switch. Hand is callousing up on the index finger nicely and getting clean notes out of every string 85% of the time. 2) God drat it. gently caress the "A-shape" major bar-chord. God drat.
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Mar 1, 2011 22:13
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Walked posted:2) God drat it. gently caress the "A-shape" major bar-chord. God drat. Personally I bar that with my pinky, I can't do it with my ring finger and clear the top string. Might be a bad habit but there it is!
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Mar 1, 2011 22:59
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baka kaba posted:Personally I bar that with my pinky, I can't do it with my ring finger and clear the top string. Might be a bad habit but there it is! Who needs the high e? You rarely see it in most actual music (outside of method books). Just barre with the ringer finger and use your finger overhang to mute it. If you need all 5 strings, use three fingers in the middle and the index to barre the A and high e. Don't always default to the barre for notes on the same fret. As often as they make something a little easier, they also reduce your options. Sliding the pinky and ring fingers together is a lot easier than sliding pinky barre. You also can't do decorative hammer/pull from a barre. CalvinDooglas fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Mar 2, 2011 |
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Mar 2, 2011 03:17
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Is that how it is for everyone? I just thought my finger was useless for not being able to bend like that. I do like my high E though, and if I need to do any sus4's or whatever I usually do the three finger thing though
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Mar 2, 2011 03:46
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baka kaba posted:Is that how it is for everyone?
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Mar 2, 2011 03:58
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Anyone care to chime in on which of these I should get? Decisions like this are too much for me  http://www.rondomusic.com/SEPTOR828mnnatsatinash.html http://www.rondomusic.com/SEPTOR828MNTGREEN.html http://www.rondomusic.com/intrepidprodual828.html I'm really leaning toward the Natural Septor. It looks really nice from the photos there and it looks more comfortable to play on than the Intrepid. The bolt on neck would compliment my playing a bit more even though i've always preferred the feel of neck through. Also, does anyone know how these would compare in quality to a 2-3 year old Schecter C-7 Blackjack? That's the extended range i'm upgrading from.
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Mar 2, 2011 18:00
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does anyone have any experience with the acoustic Roland amps (AC series)?
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Mar 2, 2011 18:22
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Is $350 a fair price for a 70s Epiphone FT-550 Excellente? I'm currently looking a one, it plays fine but has a few nicks and scratches and is missing the truss rod cover
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Mar 2, 2011 20:31
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Male on Sunday posted:Is $350 a fair price for a 70s Epiphone FT-550 Excellente? I'm currently looking a one, it plays fine but has a few nicks and scratches and is missing the truss rod cover Truss rod cover's no big deal if you're not a collector and it's not a collectible. Had to look up pics on this one and, if the one you're looking at is like the examples I just saw, I LOVE that wedge of different wood on the back. Things to look for: look down the neck, make sure it's straight, no wandering side to side or up n down. Look at the body top between the bridge and soundhole for bellying (in a nutshell, the soundhole side will dish inwards and the bit aft of the bridge will pooch out upwards. Look along all the body seams for splits. Make sure the tuners are nice and snug and so on, with no stripped gears. You mention nicks and scratches and, frankly, for an instrument from the 70's or earlier, I'd expect that. If none of them are bad enough to turn you away, then they're likely fine and just add character. $350 sounds a tad high to me, but I'm also a cheapskate. See how low they'll go. When/if you get it, post a sound sample, I'd love to hear it. e: Ok, some looking around on the Gibson/Epi forums got me this: "These go on E Bay from about $175 to $250 depending upon condition and sometimes they can go for even more...or even less depending upon condition and how informed the buyer is. Truth be told, any more than $175-$200 is over-priced because these things were completely laminated woods and today for even $200 you can buy a pretty good guitar with at least a solid wood top. If I recall the FT-550 was the one with the D-35-esque three piece back with a center piece of maple and the side panels of Jacaranda which is a trade name of a South American rosewood-like (though not related to rosewood) species. Again, while having an aesthetic quality, the woods are veneered laminates (plywood). The structural problem previously mentioned doesn't apply to these particular instruments since the FT-550 has a set-neck but another problem found in the set-neck models was a de-lamination (separation) of the scarf joint (joining two shorter pieces of wood to make one longer piece) at the heel of the neck. The FT-550 was made by Matsumoku (parent company of Aria Guitars) and was very near to top of the Epiphone line starting about 1973 (listing for around $300 (street-$200) in 1976) but the entire Epiphone line at this point in time was less than stellar. If reasonably priced (under $200) and the guitar checks out for the aforementioned structural issue, it may prove to be be a very enjoyable instrument but as I said, I might check out what's available for that price in a guitar with perhaps a bit less bling-factor and more construction and tonal substance. Good luck." So there y'go. VVV Heheh, thanks, glad to be of some assistance. On the subject of guitar values, one thing that always makes me chuckle is when I see a decent guitar for sale in my local CL or UsedCity that's going for an outrageously low price; I read the description and the poor person selling it doesn't play, never has, it's their kids' guitar/ex-husbands' and they've dropped the price because it's missing two strings. Or a screw for the pickguard or something. It's not their fault, they don't know that replacing a string takes -5min. and that you can expect to replace them dozens of times over the course of a few years. I like to dream that one day I'll find a lefty Gibson Explorer in mint condition save that it has no strings and thus must be sold for $50. Hasn't happened yet. meatcookie fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Mar 3, 2011 |
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Mar 2, 2011 21:39
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wow. thanks a lot, that post was tremendously helpful 
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Mar 3, 2011 06:31
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I bought a strap for this guitar (jasmine j 35) but it only has a connector thingy on the bottom. What do I do with the other end?
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Mar 4, 2011 01:08
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Make a loop of shoelace just above the nut and put it through the hole in the strap.
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Mar 4, 2011 01:14
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SO, I haven't played in 4 ~ months and I suck now. I suck worse than I think I've ever sucked. Please, do listen when people say that practise is important. I can't even ham fist through 'I'm Not Okay (I Promise)' and it's killing me! I remember all the notes and stuff fairly well, my hands just don't work. Gonna go plough through a few Blink songs to get my rhythm back.
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Mar 4, 2011 10:32
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Spider Crusoe posted:If you want a video, Care & Feeding Part 2 here shows you how. Mega late here, but thanks for that, it was really instructive! Makes me really want to get a peg winder, too, anyone got any recommendations?
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Mar 4, 2011 17:49
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Nuclear Spoon posted:Mega late here, but thanks for that, it was really instructive! Makes me really want to get a peg winder, too, anyone got any recommendations? yes it also has a built in wire cutter and bridge pin remover
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Mar 4, 2011 17:56
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dolphins are gay posted:SO, I haven't played in 4 ~ months and I suck now. I suck worse than I think I've ever sucked. Please, do listen when people say that practise is important. I can't even ham fist through 'I'm Not Okay (I Promise)' and it's killing me! I remember all the notes and stuff fairly well, my hands just don't work. I had surgery on my wrist last year and couldn't play for 3 or 4 months; it was loving brutal. On the plus side, I finally got myself into a pretty regular practice regimen to get back up to par as a result.
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Mar 4, 2011 18:31
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So I finally made a commitment to myself to learn how to play the guitar and I'm running into some stumbling blocks. I find practice to be really heinous, none of that "enjoy the journey" bullshit. I just plain hate it sometimes, because I suck and it's painful to listen to me suck. The biggest issue I have right now is my ring finger not wanting to work properly when I'm practicing the the caterpillar. My ring finger just doesn't seem to have the capability to move properly enough to the end of the fret to play the note correctly without me physically taking it with my other hand and placing it in the proper spot on the fret. If I press down hard enough I can get a sound out, but it's a constant struggle and not ideal since I'm not really placing my fingers properly. Have you guys run into this? Is my physiology just hosed or does this somehow miraculously work itself out? On the bright side, I guess I learned a few major chords...C, D, and G and also E minor.. I can switch between them with fair success..but I guess I'm not sure where to go from here. Maybe time to book a lesson? I've only had one guitar lesson so far and it was actually super awesome and not expensive (found a great instructor who I talked down to like $20/lesson when I lived in Boston), but I'm not really looking forward to the process of finding a new instructor in this smaller city. Maybe I don't need one just yet? Any advice/encouraging words are appreciated. Thanks =)
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Mar 4, 2011 18:47
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| # ? May 18, 2024 01:26 |
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TIME. PATIENCE. Give yourself some of both. Trust me; it makes a WORLD of difference. After a little bit of practice every day for a few months; things will begin to click. And honestly, things seem to click most often when I'm having fun and enjoying myself. It allows you to kinda break down some mental walls you put up for yourself. (It is VERY frustrating for a while though). Learn chord progressions that sound together. Spend a little time learning some basic theory and understand why certain chords sound good together and some dont. Work on changing chords in time with music. Once that clicks (and it took me some 4-5months to get anywhere near okay at it) - it suddenly becomes REALLY fun to play. Of the chords you have there, try playing around with C and G and changing cleanly between them. Try playing C - G - Aminor, they sound fairly good as a progression (I V vi) and are really easy to fret and transition between. Its really, really, really easy to get overwhelmed. Focus on having a little bit of fun (even if practice is loving frustrating).
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Mar 4, 2011 20:04
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