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Hows this looking for a starter Airbrush kit? I only really need it for basecoating or priming to begin with and I dont really have a massive amount of cash to drop right now. I'm tired of aerosol primer being fickle and figured now is the time to invest, at the beginning of an army.
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Mar 1, 2011 17:06
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Aranan posted:The prime Vlad models are pretty They are, but I also didn't do much to help. I am going to go back and add some blue to the armor to break it up a bit.
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Mar 1, 2011 17:15
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unfortunately.
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Hey dudes, selling off some odds and ends stuff on SAmart: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3393562 Infinity Combined Army, Drills(pinvices), plasticard kits, some dark elves, a bunch of new and old codexes for 40k. Some little 40k rulebooks too.
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Mar 1, 2011 20:27
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Hell Diver posted:E: Thought I'd post some shots of wolf pelts while I was at it. Here's the pelts from the Wolf Guard Battle Leader and the Long Fang Pack Leader. Hey Hell Diver, do you mind sharing your recipe for your wolf pelts?
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Mar 1, 2011 23:17
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Uber Kosh posted:Hey Hell Diver, do you mind sharing your recipe for your wolf pelts? Sure thing. I'm messing around with a few different shades on my next batch of models, but here's how I did these: First off, I looked at pictures of wolves to get an idea of fur patterns and then settled on three colors. Black, brown and white. I'm using Vallejo, P3, and GW Washes/Foundation colors at the moment so you may have to cross reference the names. 1. For the base coat I blocked out the areas I wanted each color with Black, Bootstrap Leather (Bestial brown analogue), and Khemri Bown. 2. I washed the brown with Devlan Mud to darken it and then either left it as is, or maybe gave a quick drybrush of Bootstrap Leather again. If you really want it to stand out, you can mix a little Bleached bone in with the brown and give it another quick, sparing drybrush. 3. The black is just black with a light Shadow Grey drybrushed. 4. The white is done by painting Bleached Bone directly over top of the Khemri Brown. I paint the farthest points completely Bone, and then drybrush back where the Bootstrap meets the Khemri. I then go back again with Skull White and do the same thing, but this time I paint only a very very small area pure white and then give a quick dusting back over the "white" portion of the fur. 5. For the hide I use a Rackham color called Beastly Flesh, which is kind of a terracotta, and then I highlight with a mixture of Bleached Bone and Dwarf Flesh. Hope that helps. Feel free to ask any other questions you might have.
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Mar 1, 2011 23:44
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Hell Diver, if your faces are as simple as your furs, I've been doing painting wrong for always. Anyways, how did you do those faces. gently caress it, can you just do a tutorial on a full model, because you seem to have found a really nice line between awesome looking and simple. drat, those faces pop.
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Mar 2, 2011 02:12
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Jonny Nox posted:gently caress it, can you just do a tutorial on a full model, because you seem to have found a really nice line between awesome looking and simple. I concur! The war can loving wait.
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Mar 2, 2011 02:50
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E: ^^^^^^^^^ I'm on night shift working in a media support office on a huge base at the moment. So I've got a LOT of free time for the next few weeks before I get to cycle back out to a tiny FOB and actually get into the war again for a couple months. Jonny Nox posted:Hell Diver, if your faces are as simple as your furs, I've been doing painting wrong for always. For my Space Wolves: Tanned flesh base coat. Dwarf Flesh highlight. Elf Flesh highlight. For my Archon and Haemonculus: Dwarf Flesh base coat. Leviathan Purple wash. Dwarf flesh highlight. Carnal (or Tentacle) Pink highlight. That's it. The trick is just in keeping your paints thinned and knowing what to highlight. I'm just about done with 7 more Space Wolves and then I've only got a handful of Grey Hunters left, so I'll definitely try and make a tutorial from one of them. Hell Diver fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Mar 2, 2011 |
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Mar 2, 2011 02:50
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Ah yes, the White Dwarf approach to painting tutorials. 
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Mar 2, 2011 03:04
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Ah yes, the being a dick approach to forums posting. 
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Mar 2, 2011 03:11
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Hell Diver posted:knowing what to highlight. Wisdom.
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Mar 2, 2011 03:21
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spacegoat posted:Ah yes, the White Dwarf approach to painting tutorials. Joking aside, I'm seriously an anti-pro painter. I don't use any special ingredients, no mediums, no fancy words (I'm still not really sure what a glaze is for example), I've just gotten to where I am through observation of paint jobs I like and then working out my own way to emulate them. I use cheap junky rear end nylon brushes from Michaels or some poo poo, I think Kolinsky brushes are a waste of money, and I almost never mix paints to get midtones if I can avoid it, because it takes too much time or it's hard to replicate. I'm the Tramp King of painting. E: Oh and I really only use 0 and 3/0 Brushes. 
Hell Diver fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Mar 2, 2011 |
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Mar 2, 2011 03:24
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I've been wasting my life. I'm in awe of you, sir.
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Mar 2, 2011 03:28
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The last of my Knights of the Realm, the Knights of Spring: It'll be nice to paint "normal" units from now on.   Obviously Dot Knight is the best knight.     Here are the other three units I painted last year:   
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Mar 2, 2011 05:42
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Bachtere posted:
He looks like candy! nice job, i bet they really pop on the table
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Mar 2, 2011 06:31
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Bachtere posted:The last of my Knights of the Realm, the Knights of Spring: (These paint jobs are so good it makes me ill, kudos.)
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Mar 2, 2011 10:21
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Miles O'Brian posted:Hows this looking for a starter Airbrush kit? I only really need it for basecoating or priming to begin with and I dont really have a massive amount of cash to drop right now. I still use aerosol primer because it sticks to the models unlike a popular alternative that many people bafflingly use... Shallow fucked around with this message at 13:56 on Mar 2, 2011 |
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Mar 2, 2011 13:51
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Bachtere posted:Obviously  To be honest, the purple one is actually my favorite. Nothing looks cooler than good purple.
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Mar 2, 2011 14:47
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What's worse than finding an obvious mold line on a new plastic mini you just cleaned and basecoated? Finding an obvious mold line on an old metal mini that's been undercoated for 3 years 
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Mar 2, 2011 15:25
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adamantium|wang posted:What's worse than finding an obvious mold line on a new plastic mini you just cleaned and basecoated? Finding an obvious mold line on an old metal mini that's been undercoated for 3 years After I started painting my Saeryn last night, I found a giant piece of flash (3mm x 2mm or so) behind her knee. Previously, I thought it was part of the model, but no. Now it looks like poo poo right there. Also, I now prefer plastics to pewter. Dropping a plastic mini while painting, nothing happens. Dropping a pewter mini that weighs a ton, 3 inches is enough to ruin 3 hours of work. I read somewhere about using unthinned Liquitex paints for drybrushing. It worked beautifully. The thick paint, combined with an abundance of rich pigment worked great! I used like Paynes grey and grey mixed, followed by grey, and my poo poo was poppin! Pop Pop! (Grey is should be spelled Gray. Just sayin.) dexefiend fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Mar 2, 2011 |
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Mar 2, 2011 15:59
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Hell Diver posted:knowing what to highlight. Well crap, it turns out you need time, experience, self criticism, and patience to get better? I was looking for magic words damnit!  Seriously, I've been trying to paint better for the last half year (at the frequency I paint, that's not long) and I've smacked into 2 problems. 1) When I didn't thin my paints as much, I would be able to highlight like a champ by just glomming my poorly thinned paints lightly on the model and it would stick to the high-up bits. Now that I thin my paints more, I get alot more paint onto my bristles, plus it doesn't half dry by the time I get to the model, so its smoothly flowing over the edges, right into the recesses I'm drying to keep a darker color. 2) I started painting Warmachine minis with their large sweeping curved armour plates, etc and don't have the fiddly detail molded in that my dwarfs etc could draw out for highlights. So now I'm trying to blend highlighted colors to keep the color from looking too flat, and it feels like it's arbitrary where I'm putting Highlights and shadows. It's not frustrating because the final product looks ok, but I'd like to know how other people add highlights to their models, and how much they look to add.
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Mar 2, 2011 16:26
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A key thing about highlights is knowing when to stop. Its very easy to just keep going lighter and lighter and that just makes things look very odd.
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Mar 2, 2011 16:28
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Jonny Nox posted:2) I started painting Warmachine minis with their large sweeping curved armour plates, etc and don't have the fiddly detail molded in that my dwarfs etc could draw out for highlights. So now I'm trying to blend highlighted colors to keep the color from looking too flat, and it feels like it's arbitrary where I'm putting Highlights and shadows. It's not frustrating because the final product looks ok, but I'd like to know how other people add highlights to their models, and how much they look to add. Painting anything is basically about understanding how light and shadow work. I also will stick with this to my grave: shadow obscures, light defines. It's MUCH easier to highlight something up then to shade it down. I strongly recommend using a wash or something to drop an entire area into shadow then picking out the highlights. Also, don't always highlight the highest surface on a given area. Try to think about weather it would be getting hit by light or not. I think the worst culprit of edge highlights is marine armor. Take a look at almost any post on B&C and you'll see people highlighting around the edges of each armor plate. It looks horrendous.
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Mar 2, 2011 16:34
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Hell Diver posted:E: ^^^^^^^^^ Not even any washes? Wow...
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Mar 2, 2011 16:52
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!amicable posted:Also, don't always highlight the highest surface on a given area. Some of the most amazing effects are achieved by doing the opposite of this. Darkening the top, and then highlighting below. It can make an area appear less flat.
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Mar 2, 2011 16:54
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Another key element to painting is separation. The ability to separate individual elements of a model so they're easier to read from a distance makes them stand out all the more. Going back to my Space Wolves, take a look at their shoulder pads. Even though they're yellow shoulder pads, I always wash Gryphonne Sepia into the edges to further separate the yellow from the gray. On the black and white side of the Long Fangs, a black wash does the same deal. It's essentially the same idea with the black-lining/washes on the marine armor and then highlights to make the separation stand out even more. Too often you'll see models who look blotchy or muddy, with each color seeming to just smudge into the next one. This is because of a lack of separation. It's kind of a strange idea to get across properly, and maybe I can touch on it more when I get around to a tutorial type thing, but nice, bold separation of elements helps the eye take in each individual element and also helps the model really stand out on a tabletop. Jonny Nox posted:1) When I didn't thin my paints as much, I would be able to highlight like a champ by just glomming my poorly thinned paints lightly on the model and it would stick to the high-up bits. Now that I thin my paints more, I get alot more paint onto my bristles, plus it doesn't half dry by the time I get to the model, so its smoothly flowing over the edges, right into the recesses I'm drying to keep a darker color. It really does sort of have to come down to trial and error. Something that might help is to keep a paper towel nearby, thin your paints down and then dab or gently press the tip of the brush on the towel briefly to absorb some of the moisture and hopefully allow you a little more control. Just keep practicing with how much water you actually need to add, because in a lot of cases it's a lot less than you may think. Indolent Bastard posted:Not even any washes? Wow... Yeah, on standard skin I don't like to use washes, because they tend to be an extra step I really just don't need (also I start using that style before the washes came out, and inks were too strong or unpredictable). If there are certain parts I feel need darkening then I go back with a 3/0 brush and paint a color similar to Dark Flesh (Beastly Flesh from Rackham at the moment, Terracotta-ish color) into the recess of the face VERY carefully. You keep the paint a little thin so it'll apply smoothly, but not so thin that it just gushes into the cracks. Hell Diver fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Mar 2, 2011 |
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Mar 2, 2011 16:58
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 FYRBRANDLong, busy day today but I caught your post. My Xavier  I'm planning on replacing him with the one I traded with you for since I had to GS that dumb cape of his.
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Mar 3, 2011 00:27
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Reaper's Mocking Beast aka Mimic aka the biggest rear end in a top hat from Baldur's Gate:   I was painting this guy the same time I was painting the knights, whenever the colors were convenient to use for both.
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Mar 3, 2011 05:55
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Bachtere posted:Reaper's Mocking Beast aka Mimic aka the biggest rear end in a top hat from Baldur's Gate: Best mimic story: friend of mine was in a D&D game, his character and his party were walking along when a tree stump said "hey, what's your name?" Some person in the party gave out her name, and the stump said "I know; I have important information regarding your family." Long story short: mimic dies, everyone is near death, no one talks to that character for an in-game week because of it.
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Mar 3, 2011 06:05
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Just picked up a Storm Raven last night. The GW site suggests using the GW Spray Can and Propellant, naturally. I don't own an airbrush, though I've toyed with the idea of getting one. Would the GW Spray setup suffice, or is there a better option out there for painting this thing up with the glory it deserves? Would the Army Painter primer + color sprays work well enough - seems like Dragon Red is too dark, and Pure Red too bright.
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Mar 3, 2011 18:46
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People who work at a GW store will tell you not to buy the GW spray gun.
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Mar 3, 2011 18:48
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MasterSlowPoke posted:People who work at a GW store will tell you not to buy the GW spray gun. There's one in my garage, it's about as good at paint spraying as it is at being a hand flamer. It never once sprayed any paint on anything, ever. And it's the second one, we reported the first one for being useless to GW's customer service.
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Mar 3, 2011 19:01
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Sounds like my best bet is the Army Painter Primer + Color set then. Or pony up for a good double action airbrush
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Mar 3, 2011 19:03
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MasterSlowPoke posted:People who work at a GW store will tell you not to buy the GW spray gun. Cannot stress this enough. Why they still have it on sale I dont know, I cant think of a single person that bought one and didnt take it back for being useless.
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Mar 3, 2011 19:16
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b-b-b-but it looks like a flamer!
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Mar 3, 2011 19:24
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Mortanis posted:Just picked up a Storm Raven last night. The GW site suggests using the GW Spray Can and Propellant, naturally. I don't own an airbrush, though I've toyed with the idea of getting one. Firstly, everyone thinks the GW spray gun blows, because it does. Also, spray can propellant is expensive and can cause bad splattering b/c it doesn't provide consistent pressure. A decent toploader + small compressor will run you about 200 bucks. I have one and I love it. The crappiest part of painting for me is basecoating and blending, and this can take that job fantastically. I have not liked the spray primers I've gotten from army painter much. They seemed to me to go on a bit thick, but my suggestion is to get the advice from a more experienced painter than I.
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Mar 3, 2011 19:54
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I refuse to believe that any minis or scenery in any issue of WD have ever been basecoated, undercoated, or painted in any way with the GW spray gun. Even in any photos showing stuff being painted with the spray gun (I am convinced they just Photoshop the spray gun over a guy using a real airbrush in the photos). I forget if it was on SA or in another forum, but I remember reading about a guy whose spray gun started leaking paint on him as he was spraying. As in, the paint leaked inside the gun and then started oozing/dripping out of the "seam" between the two halves of the gun.
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Mar 3, 2011 19:56
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Acidix posted:get the advice from a more experienced painter than I. Dont buy army painter sprays
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Mar 3, 2011 19:56
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PV did you like Tamiya sprays? They seem not too hard to get a hold of.
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Mar 3, 2011 19:59
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Fyrbrand posted:PV did you like Tamiya sprays? They seem not too hard to get a hold of. Ive used em, I think I liked them but it was a while ago. I think they might have a bit less tooth than primers, but Im sure they are still way better than army painter. The real issue with rattlecans is matching that color with brush on paint at some point.
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Mar 3, 2011 20:00
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