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warcake posted:I'm looking to put mk4 r32 front brakes on my mk4 1.8t. Is this what you want? http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-R32_MKIV--3.2/Braking/OEM/ES6675/ I think the part number is probably the same.
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Mar 1, 2011 20:39
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I'm getting those Koni FSDs in, and we're having a lot of trouble getting the axles back into the hubs. We're sure the splines are lined up, but no matter how hard we push we can't get the axles back in far enough for the bolts to reach and pull them the rest of the way through. Any ideas on how to help axles back into hubs?
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Mar 1, 2011 20:43
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PoopinClumpin posted:Is this what you want? http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-R32_MKIV--3.2/Braking/OEM/ES6675/ I don't think its that exact one that says for the rear rotors, but i did have a flick through the website and I think i found the ones i want. I'll ring them tomorrow when they open and see if the numbers match. Thanks! EDIT: that website is awesome i wish we had something comparable in the UK warcake fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Mar 1, 2011 |
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Mar 1, 2011 21:12
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THE MACHO MAN posted:Does anyone here have any experience with certified Audis?? I bought my 2006 A4 as a CPO vehicle, and I'm quite happy with it. I get maintenance done at the same dealership, it only needs servicing every 12k (km) anyway. So far they seem keen on not doing more work than is necessary (as opposed to recommending all sorts of unnecessary work so they can charge me more) so I'm happy with the level of service; however when faced with a tricky issue they're not that good at troubleshooting. I spent a good while trying to figure out a power-loss problem that turned out to be a brake switch that needed replacement, but once I'd figured it out they got it fixed for me very promptly. I have the APR stage 1 flash and it's never been an issue, even though I usually forget to do the lockout procedure before service/repairs. I think you'll like the 2.0T engine, it's very powerful up front -- peak torque is at around 2500 rpm and you're practically always in that area during normal driving. It's practically a waste to opt for the V6. The 2.0T engines don't tend to blow their turbos like I hear older Audis used to. The part of the car most likely to go wrong is the diverter valve which used to have a fragile design, but in a CPO car that should have been upgraded to the newer, more solid design. Note that the CPO warranty expires when your car gets to the 5- or 6-year mark based on the date of manufacture (should be on the information plate on the driver's side door), as opposed to a new car warranty which kicks in when the car is bought. So make sure you get that issue cleared up.
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Mar 1, 2011 21:15
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Stage one flash is the turbo I assume?? I'm sorry, I'm retarded on that, I've never owned a turbo car before. I had the six cyl last time. the CPO warranty I've been reading about more, it seems like a good deal like you said. I guess I just gotta decide if it's worth 20k for 2-3yrs worth of warranty on a 40k car or a brand new one with a full warranty (In that dept, I've been eying the Subaru Legacy... nice car, underwhelming power) http://www.paulmilleraudi.com/preowned/WAUDF78E78A102150.html The car in question. I'd only get stick and it seems those are rarer than I thought, and I want black too, so I don't have the luxury of waiting for as long as I thought to shop more. Damnit.
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Mar 1, 2011 21:34
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JHVH-1 posted:Newer models have encryption that has to be bypassed by pulling the ECU. It was only a matter of time before the tuning companies started going this route. Now if only the vagcom peeps would do it. I'd like to have their program, but not at the expense of having to buy a netbook with windows just to run it.
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Mar 1, 2011 21:35
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Just buy a used ToughBook on eBay. You can get them for around $100. They're rugged and have a touchscreen. Perfect for doing repair work. 
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Mar 1, 2011 21:39
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THE MACHO MAN posted:Stage one flash is the turbo I assume?? No, that's the ECU reprogramming which gets you more torque and horsepower. Nice car, although the red brake calipers look a bit odd. Maybe that's an 08 thing. Also it's very easy to retrofit the OEM GPS unit into that model A4 if you're into that sort of thing.
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Mar 1, 2011 21:58
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timb posted:APR is flashed through the OBD port, isn't it? You put 50k on it after the flash?
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Mar 1, 2011 22:24
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el topo posted:No, that's the ECU reprogramming which gets you more torque and horsepower. Yeah, I thought the same too, but I can overlook it. The only thing is that would lead me to think that it was owned by a youngin'... otherwise I like the car and I'd overlook that. I'll keep that in mind about the GPS. That might be a down the road thing, since I'll be puckering up my rear end and my wallet for a bit after this. My bank account looks so pretty now with all the extra cash...
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Mar 1, 2011 22:27
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Autism Sundae posted:You put 50k on it after the flash? Previous owner, but yea. He had it done at 30k miles. I just rolled over 80k with it. I've got all his service records and talked to him a few times, no issues for either of us. (Though, I did replace the diverter valve with one from Forge. Apparently he had already replaced it with a the latest greatest "D" revision.) A stage 1 flash should be very, very safe, especially if you go with APR. Really, the worst that can happen is you rip the diaphragm on the DV. The car will (should) go into limp mode before any damage can be done.
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Mar 1, 2011 23:44
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teh jhey posted:I'm getting those Koni FSDs in, and we're having a lot of trouble getting the axles back into the hubs. Check for corrosion on the splines of the hubs or the axles. I've seen some cases where the axles were driven out of the hub with a hammer and punch and it resulted in slight nicks on the edges of the splines so it was very difficult to get the axles back in. I usually hit the splines with PB Blaster or similar to help loosen corrosion.
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Mar 1, 2011 23:57
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el topo posted:I bought my 2006 A4 as a CPO vehicle, and I'm quite happy with it. I get maintenance done at the same dealership, it only needs servicing every 12k (km) anyway. So far they seem keen on not doing more work than is necessary (as opposed to recommending all sorts of unnecessary work so they can charge me more) so I'm happy with the level of service; however when faced with a tricky issue they're not that good at troubleshooting. I spent a good while trying to figure out a power-loss problem that turned out to be a brake switch that needed replacement, but once I'd figured it out they got it fixed for me very promptly. You were pretty spot on about everything here. The engine's pretty nice too, plenty of torque no matter where you are. Now the only thing left is haggling. $20,796 is the sticker, which seems to be a fairly low number. Would I get laughed out if I offered like $19,500? I'd like to get under $20 if possible, but at the same time, at least one and possibly another person test drove the same car today and it's the only black CPO stick at that price range in the area. Gahhhhh.
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Mar 3, 2011 23:39
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timb posted:Previous owner, but yea. He had it done at 30k miles. I just rolled over 80k with it. Assuming you run the correct fuel. Don't go get a flash then put 87 octane in it 
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Mar 3, 2011 23:46
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You should never have any fuel with an octane rating less than 91 in a 2.0T engine. Says so right on the fuel filler flap.
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Mar 4, 2011 01:02
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THE MACHO MAN posted:Now the only thing left is haggling. $20,796 is the sticker, which seems to be a fairly low number. Would I get laughed out if I offered like $19,500? I'd like to get under $20 if possible, but at the same time, at least one and possibly another person test drove the same car today and it's the only black CPO stick at that price range in the area. Gahhhhh. Don't pay sticker price. If someone drove it and didn't buy it, then what are you worried about?
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Mar 4, 2011 02:16
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The lease on my '08 GTI is up next month and i've been looking for a good used car to actually own. I'm just looking for something relatively practical, safe, and a little sporty. I checked out a CPO Audi 2008 A4 2.0T quattro this week with only 18k miles for about $22k. Am I making a huge mistake? Anything glaring that I should be looking for in particular? I know the CVT's go early, and german cars in general have electronics issues(my GTI had a faulty tire pressure reading for 2 of the 3 years I've had it) but anything major other than that?
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Mar 4, 2011 04:02
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Oh I know that, I just didn't wanna play hard ball too much that they went with the other guy. I walked in and he was the guy ahead of me with an appointment for the same car and I ended up having to wait for him. I ended up shooting for 19,800 on my first offer and got about 20,220 before taxes and everything else. The bluebook for a CPO of that seems to be about 23 and change. I think I got an ok amount off, and it was already a pretty good price it seems. Should I have aimed lower first? I'd be interested to know what other people have paid, I'm trying to search up some comparisons.
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Mar 4, 2011 04:21
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temujen posted:I checked out a CPO Audi 2008 A4 2.0T quattro this week with only 18k miles for about $22k. That's OK given such low mileage. If it's a quattro it won't have a CVT gearbox, those were only available on FrontTrak cars (I think). The electrics have proved fairly reliable on my car, except for that brake switch. You should be able to get at least $500 off on the asking price. I got $500 off and I suck at that sort of bargaining. Make sure you establish clearly when the CPO warranty ends, as I've mentioned before.
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Mar 4, 2011 06:20
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el topo posted:That's OK given such low mileage. If it's a quattro it won't have a CVT gearbox, those were only available on FrontTrak cars (I think). The electrics have proved fairly reliable on my car, except for that brake switch. Thanks, will definitely try my best to get a bit more shaved off. How's the mileage on your vehicle? I paid $65 earlier to day to fill up the family Pathfinder with regular, I'm starting to factor that more into the decision of what car to consider.
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Mar 5, 2011 20:55
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temujen posted:Thanks, will definitely try my best to get a bit more shaved off. How's the mileage on your vehicle? I paid $65 earlier to day to fill up the family Pathfinder with regular, I'm starting to factor that more into the decision of what car to consider. City mileage in my 06 A4 (2.0T stock) is atrocious; I get maybe ~330 miles to the tank. When I was doing 100 miles/day commuting though, tank was easily lasting upwards of 485 miles. Furthest I ever pushed it was ~500 miles, with '--- mi' remaining on the console. So, city mileage = poo poo, highway mileage, you should be >=30mpg.
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Mar 5, 2011 22:09
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movax posted:City mileage in my 06 A4 (2.0T stock) is atrocious; I get maybe ~330 miles to the tank. When I was doing 100 miles/day commuting though, tank was easily lasting upwards of 485 miles. Furthest I ever pushed it was ~500 miles, with '--- mi' remaining on the console. That's atrocious? Sounds like you get low 20's in the city. I suppose the fact that there's such a wide variance makes low 20's mpg feel lovely.
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Mar 5, 2011 22:32
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I have similar experiences. Mileage is not terribly good in the city (22-25 mpg), but then I'm a rather, er, enthusiastic driver and that probably doesn't help 
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Mar 6, 2011 03:32
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How crazy would I be for thinking about purchasing a B7 S4? Am I going to put myself in the poor house trying to keep one in good shape? In a nutshell, I'm looking at newer compact AWD sedans/hatchbacks with a manual and that are fun to drive and handle well (my standards are high, coming from a Miata). The only real contenders I can think of are a WRX and B7 Audis. How much worse is an S4 than an A4 as far as running costs and reliability? I'm not sure I could live with an A4 long term after the 06 I drove wasn't as ballsy as I would like. That V8 gas mileage would be pretty brutal, however. But that V8... Guinness fucked around with this message at 08:13 on Mar 6, 2011 |
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Mar 6, 2011 08:05
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temujen posted:That's atrocious? Sounds like you get low 20's in the city. I suppose the fact that there's such a wide variance makes low 20's mpg feel lovely. Yeah, sorry, low 20s is bad for me; I've always only driven small compacts, this is my first vehicle with a turbo (which is what is owning my city mileage).
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Mar 6, 2011 22:15
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Guinness posted:That V8 gas mileage would be pretty brutal, however. But that V8... They tend to get 12-15 mpg in the city, premium gas (91+ octane) only. I can't say that I'm not tempted at all myself, but those numbers just bring me back down to reality every time.
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Mar 7, 2011 02:56
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Guinness posted:How crazy would I be for thinking about purchasing a B7 S4? Am I going to put myself in the poor house trying to keep one in good shape? In a nutshell, I'm looking at newer compact AWD sedans/hatchbacks with a manual and that are fun to drive and handle well (my standards are high, coming from a Miata). The only real contenders I can think of are a WRX and B7 Audis. How much worse is an S4 than an A4 as far as running costs and reliability? I'm not sure I could live with an A4 long term after the 06 I drove wasn't as ballsy as I would like. Get yourself a 6-speed B7 A4 2.0T and have it chipped. Plenty of power, gas mileage is a lot better than the S4, and there's a lot more you can do to the 2.0T than the 4.2, and for less money. I have one and I love it.  (winter mode)
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Mar 7, 2011 02:59
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Guinness posted:How crazy would I be for thinking about purchasing a B7 S4? I think you would be more crazy to not consider a used (new?) B8 S4 instead. The handling is easily better than my old MKV GTI, which I think had excellent handling. For mileage, this S4's 3.0T will get a whopping 2 mpg less than the 2.0T on the A4. I get about 19mpg city/27 hwy - it turns off the supercharger when not accelerating to get A4-like fuel economy while outperforming the B7 RS4 in hp and torque up to 5000rpm. It is about 2 years into the life cycle of the B8 and the only significant reliability problems so far seem to be defective water pump housings. I think there have been no reports of the intake carbon buildup problems that exist on the B7's 4.2T FSI motors. I have not had to spend much so far maintaining it, so I can't speak for long term costs; but even very early B8's will still be under warranty. If you do test drive one, try to make sure it has the sport rear differential. It is the most important gimmick (that is too expensive to add aftermarket) because it makes the S4 handle like it weighs a thousand pounds less than it does. It can move almost all available rear wheel power to the outside rear wheel in tight turns. Felt weird at first, like the car is steering from behind; now I wouldn't ever want to drive without it. Add the APR ecu tune for +70hp (~410hp) without significantly affecting fuel economy.  edit: fixed thumb PoopinClumpin fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Mar 7, 2011 |
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Mar 7, 2011 07:48
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PoopinClumpin posted:I think you would be more crazy to not consider a used (new?) B8 S4 instead. Have you gotten the tune yet? I've been thinking about it but the car's pretty fast as is and I can think of other ways to drop $1500
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Mar 7, 2011 18:27
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SwashedBuckles posted:Have you gotten the tune yet? I've been thinking about it but the car's pretty fast as is and I can think of other ways to drop $1500 If you look at the numbers it really doesn't look like it's worth that much dough.
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Mar 7, 2011 20:31
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SwashedBuckles posted:Have you gotten the tune yet? I've been thinking about it but the car's pretty fast as is and I can think of other ways to drop $1500 I haven't. I'm waiting for them to release the version with different octane profiles and the valet mode. Mostly, I'd rather not have to deal with having it done twice, even if the 2nd time is free of charge. el topo posted:If you look at the numbers it really doesn't look like it's worth that much dough. Agreed. Especially considering what SwashedBuckles said. But I can still see myself doing the tune at this point only because it seems to provide the best power for dollars over new flywheels or headers. There's also the not often mentioned problem that not tuning the ECU presents. APR can look at tuning this new Siemens RSA-encrypted ECU as essentially a modding price of admission. Any major mods you do (while the ECU remains in factory mode) can essentially be undone by the ECU because of the adaptive program. For example, if you installed a piggyback chip, or maybe a better fuel pump, the ECU will silently and gracefully clamp down on any control signals that would have improved performance. It looks like this type of ECU might be used across most of the VW/Audi lineup in the coming years. 
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Mar 7, 2011 21:18
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JHVH-1 posted:This is the link but they are still down from last nights maintenance http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15379 Arin@APR says it'll be compatible with the MKV FSI/TSI engines too! 
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Mar 8, 2011 01:09
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I have a 2005 A4 with an extremely worn-out stock manual shift knob. I'm hoping to replace it on my own if possible. After about 15 minutes of Google searching, I'm under the impression that this would entail removing the entire boot. Is this really the case? When I've replaced the shift knob on my other cars, the knobs themselves were simply threaded, so I could just unscrew them and screw another one on. Can someone confirm this for me? I'm a little unsure of my ability to remove the whole boot without messing something up. Thanks.
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Mar 8, 2011 22:13
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Blakkout posted:Can someone confirm this for me? I'm a little unsure of my ability to remove the whole boot without messing something up. Thanks. The B6 (early 2005) and B7 (late 2005) A4 shifter removal was the same I think. And it did require popping the boot off. It isn't that hard to do, you just grab the frame of the boot from below and pry it off. After you get the boot pulled up and turned inside out above the shifter knob, there is a metal ring snap that holds the knob in place on the metal shaft. Once that ring is off the whole knob + boot assembly should slide up and can be replaced. A video of it being done: (143MB) http://audishifter.com/videos/JHM_instructions_B6_B7_web768k.wmv
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Mar 9, 2011 04:00
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Blakkout posted:I have a 2005 A4 with an extremely worn-out stock manual shift knob. I'm hoping to replace it on my own if possible. After about 15 minutes of Google searching, I'm under the impression that this would entail removing the entire boot. Is this really the case? When I've replaced the shift knob on my other cars, the knobs themselves were simply threaded, so I could just unscrew them and screw another one on. Can someone confirm this for me? I'm a little unsure of my ability to remove the whole boot without messing something up. Thanks. Aren't these suppose to be screwed on/off? I do see some posts telling you to lift the boot to unscrew it. Also it looks like when(if) you remove the boot you snap off some connectors and you will have to fix that as well.
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Mar 9, 2011 14:16
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PoopinClumpin posted:The B6 (early 2005) and B7 (late 2005) A4 shifter removal was the same I think. And it did require popping the boot off. It isn't that hard to do, you just grab the frame of the boot from below and pry it off. After you get the boot pulled up and turned inside out above the shifter knob, there is a metal ring snap that holds the knob in place on the metal shaft. Once that ring is off the whole knob + boot assembly should slide up and can be replaced. Is my stock boot compatible with after-market shifter knobs? Is it easy to separate the stock knob from the boot, and just sttach the boot to another know somehow? I'm worried that my new knob wont' come with a ring of its own, and assuming I'll probably damage the old ring (or some other necessary part) in the process of getting it off. Basically I'm wondering if I can get away with just buying a new knob and nothing else.
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Mar 9, 2011 21:22
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Blakkout posted:Is my stock boot compatible with after-market shifter knobs? Is it easy to separate the stock knob from the boot, and just sttach the boot to another know somehow? I'm worried that my new knob wont' come with a ring of its own, and assuming I'll probably damage the old ring (or some other necessary part) in the process of getting it off. Basically I'm wondering if I can get away with just buying a new knob and nothing else. I think if your ordered the knob from the dealer it would have the boot attached. I'm not sure about your other question. But I think it would be best to assume the worst. Maybe consider getting a replacement boot+knob from a parts yard?
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Mar 9, 2011 23:04
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Been looking at purchasing a 2011 Golf with a standard transmission, but need to have a hitch rack for bicycles. I don't plan on towing anything, but I can't seem to find a definitive answer on if I'll get any flak for having a hitch if/(when?) I need a warranty repair. Does anyone have access to an owner's manual to see if they publish tow capacity, or barring that, if the dealer would care?
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Mar 13, 2011 08:37
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Nostalgic Cashew posted:Been looking at purchasing a 2011 Golf with a standard transmission, but need to have a hitch rack for bicycles. I don't plan on towing anything, but I can't seem to find a definitive answer on if I'll get any flak for having a hitch if/(when?) I need a warranty repair. Does anyone have access to an owner's manual to see if they publish tow capacity, or barring that, if the dealer would care? The dealer wouldn't care. Hell, they may even try to sell you one. My father-in-law just put a hitch on his 2010 Jetta Sportwagen TDI to tow his jetski, no issues from the dealer. One question though, does it have to be a hitch rack? Installing a hitch just to haul bikes seems like wasted money when a roof rack gives you more flexibility.
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Mar 13, 2011 16:42
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Nostalgic Cashew posted:Been looking at purchasing a 2011 Golf with a standard transmission, but need to have a hitch rack for bicycles. I don't plan on towing anything, but I can't seem to find a definitive answer on if I'll get any flak for having a hitch if/(when?) I need a warranty repair. Does anyone have access to an owner's manual to see if they publish tow capacity, or barring that, if the dealer would care? I don't have access to the tow stats for your car right now but having a hitch won't effect your warranty UNLESS the installer tampers with the wiring for the exterior lighting. Since you only want the hitch for your bike rack the wiring shouldn't be a problem. The only other warranty problem you could run into is if the hitch support has to be removed to repair a seperate problem but odds are that won't be an issue either.
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Mar 13, 2011 18:11
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