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So last summer I got a manual 86 325e as a second car. I've learned a ton about repairing it and haven't had any major problems since I got it. Until yesterday.... Yesterday leaving the office I couldn't get it into reverse, it wasn't popping out, it was more like the entire shifter and moved forward an inch, so putting into reverse, 1st, and 3rd was difficult as I felt like I was hitting the front of the console before I got into gear. Today I decided to take it out for a quick drive to see if it was something I was imagining only to be presented with the same problem. I started driving in first and heard a loud popping sound and it went out of first and wouldn't go back in, so I was left driving in second on the way home. Then the shifter went completely loose and the car was stuck in 2nd. Its like the gears aren't there and the stick can move freely without any of the notches. I can't seem to find the right combination of words to put together to google the problem, and don't feel like taking a $1,000 car in for what could be a huge repair bill. Any Ideas?
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Feb 21, 2011 02:31
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jaspertron posted:So last summer I got a manual 86 325e as a second car. I've learned a ton about repairing it and haven't had any major problems since I got it. Until yesterday.... You can try popping off the shifter boots and inspecting the shift console/shifter bushings for floppyness. Even the worst e30 shifter I've seen never popped out of gear though, that sounds transmission related.
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Feb 21, 2011 03:23
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VibrioCholera posted:Bet people south of the Mason Dixie line It's Mason-Dixon. 
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Feb 21, 2011 04:16
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Taco Box posted:Aside for VCG, what are some common points for oil leaks on e46's ? I don't know about common, but my 2002 325xi touring has some small leaks out of the VCG even though it was recently replaced, and from the oil pan gasket. The goddamn driveshaft runs through the oil pan so apparently it has to be dropped and a bunch of extra seals replaced at the same time.
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Feb 21, 2011 04:43
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jaspertron posted:So last summer I got a manual 86 325e as a second car. I've learned a ton about repairing it and haven't had any major problems since I got it. Until yesterday.... http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1254&mospid=47308&btnr=25_0093&hg=25&fg=05  Part #1 is broken, or maybe #2 has backed out and come loose. You'll need two of #1 if they're broken, and it's best to replace them in pairs, as if one is broken, the other is soon to follow. The drat things are made out of lovely cast pot-metal. I think the allen bolts are 6mm, but I don't remember. You'll need some 6" extensions and a 6mm allen wrench socket (Go ahead and buy a whole rail of the things in 3/8", they're drat useful) Also, #4 is a bitch and a half to get out. I had to remove the transmission support and tilt the powerplant down to get the clearance I needed. Removing the driveshaft is optional if you have good mechanics' hands. It took me about an hour the first time I did it.
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Feb 21, 2011 22:21
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Beach Bum posted:http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1254&mospid=47308&btnr=25_0093&hg=25&fg=05 I have no idea how to get to this given I feel like I can't even move underneath the thing when its jacked up as high as my stands will allow. I'll keep the thread updated on my misguided attempts to fix this. Although after not having it for a few days I've started to think about just selling the car, the cash would be put to good use right now... Anyone in the Phoenix area want to buy an almost running e30? Its interior is in dissarray, and exterier isn't much better but it's never had any engine problems! jaspertron fucked around with this message at 07:01 on Feb 22, 2011 |
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Feb 22, 2011 06:55
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jaspertron posted:Although after not having it for a few days I've started to think about just selling the car, the cash would be put to good use right now... Anyone in the Phoenix area want to buy an almost running e30? Its interior is in dissarray, and exterier isn't much better but it's never had any engine problems! Why can't you people live in the midwest, all thats here is stupid pickups. Either way, if it was me, hang on to it, just set your car aside for a while, then when you feel ambitious, fix the problem. E30's are nothing to work on.
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Feb 22, 2011 15:33
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jaspertron posted:Thanks! It's really not terribly difficult, and accomplishing even a minor feat such as this is good for your satisfaction with the car. If your jackstands aren't high enough, you need better ones. The 2-ton stands I have go up to about two feet, if not more, and they were ~$30/pair.
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Feb 23, 2011 01:00
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Greeting Beamer Goons. I have, as of yesterday, joined the illustrious ranks of BMW owners. Purchased a very nice E36 that needs a little TLC on the bodywork but otherwise I think is a fine example of the car. I tend to worry more about the mechanics than the outer appearance. I have a couple of questions though for ye of much greater experience: 2. There's a couple of rust patches on the upper bodywork I'm going to tackle with the ol' sandpaper and touch-up paint since they're nice and small. I had a thought, however, that instead of using a little brush I could airbrush the paint and lacquer since I own an airbrush. Surely this would give a better finish? (I know it's not going to be perfect, I'm more worried about stopping further corrosion). I was also of the opinion that official BMW touch-up paint would be the way to go, so correct me if I'm misguided. If you have any other tips for a BMW newbie such as myself, drown me in knowledge. I've read a lot of this lengthy thread so I think I'm prepared for most things as it's filled with so much useful information that helped me make a good purchase, I hope. Oh, and if it makes much of a difference I'm one of those crooked teeth, warm-beer drinking Brit types. e: Got through the firewall a ok. There's a nice convenient hole behind the glovebox. However, I have a new query! My wing mirror base plates are fairly badly oxidised and need some cleaning and a spray. I can get the mirrors off no problem, but I don't know how to separate the mirror from the base plate. It's a standard mirror, with what looks like a hinge section but I don't know how to dismantle that part. From diagrams it doesn't look like it's behind the glass, so how do I get this bastard apart? runwiled fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Feb 28, 2011 |
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Feb 24, 2011 14:29
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So, I have never aimed projector headlights and I'm not sure how they're supposed to be aligned with their different cutoff. White line is drivers headlight cutoff, yellow is passenger. How should they meet up? Like the top one? Bottom? Something else?
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Mar 4, 2011 04:20
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Lowclock posted:So, I have never aimed projector headlights and I'm not sure how they're supposed to be aligned with their different cutoff. Bottom.
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Mar 4, 2011 04:22
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Beach Bum posted:Bottom. Thanks. Also, how far apart should that vertical part of the cutoffs be? Straight on from the light?
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Mar 4, 2011 04:32
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Lowclock posted:Thanks. Also, how far apart should that vertical part of the cutoffs be? Straight on from the light? Hey you have an E34 right? I'd love to see how yours align when you're finished. Someone did a euro smiley light swap on mine and I think the left light is way out of alignment. All the light seems to end up on the right side of the road.
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Mar 4, 2011 08:15
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Lowclock posted:Thanks. Also, how far apart should that vertical part of the cutoffs be? Straight on from the light? They should be down and to the right a bit. I don't know the exact angles, and without knowing your year/make/model I can't pull up the necessary diagram. If you have the owners manual for the car it may have a diagram in there, if you have a Bentley for your car it'd definitely be in there. If you have an E30 or an E36 I can get my Bentley out and tell you. 8ender posted:Hey you have an E34 right? I'd love to see how yours align when you're finished. Someone did a euro smiley light swap on mine and I think the left light is way out of alignment. All the light seems to end up on the right side of the road. E34 headlight aiming information
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Mar 4, 2011 12:42
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Taco Box posted:E: here is a pic of my garage, well, of a bike I was building, but my garage is so narrow on the sides that I can't use a floor jack without a swiveling handle to lift my car on one side. OTOH, using this experience would be valuable to doing the bushings on my wife's civic, which are in dire need of replacing. You can get hydraulic floor jacks with a tiny little foot pump that only sticks out a few inches. Takes a bit more force to get it pumped, but it works. And yeah, lucky you for just having at least that.
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Mar 4, 2011 13:52
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I went into my local BMW dealership today to talk to them about the 1M. When I made mention that I'd like to be listed for one I was drat near laughed out of the place. While there I made the mistake of driving the 335is and am in love. It's base price is drat near the M3 base price which is giving me great pause I'm feeling like perhaps I should just suck it up, spend the extra couple of grand and get an M3. Is the 335is car really so great that it's worth the premium over the 335i? Any thoughts on 335 vs 135? I really want a car that I can flog around on a track and at autocrosses. Appreciate any thoughts.
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Mar 6, 2011 04:45
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allonblack posted:Any thoughts on 335 vs 135? I really want a car that I can flog around on a track and at autocrosses.
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Mar 6, 2011 05:24
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allonblack posted:I went into my local BMW dealership today to talk to them about the 1M. When I made mention that I'd like to be listed for one I was drat near laughed out of the place.
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Mar 6, 2011 06:56
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Kenshin posted:Why? (or is it because EVERYONE wants one so good luck getting on the list) Lists everywhere are full and according to the dealerships here we're unlikely to get a large allotment of them due to the limited production numbers (heard 630, and "about 700") today from two different dealerships.
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Mar 6, 2011 09:12
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allonblack posted:I went into my local BMW dealership today to talk to them about the 1M. When I made mention that I'd like to be listed for one I was drat near laughed out of the place. While there I made the mistake of driving the 335is and am in love. It's base price is drat near the M3 base price which is giving me great pause I'm feeling like perhaps I should just suck it up, spend the extra couple of grand and get an M3. Can always find a CPO 335i before the N55 was used, then throw a tune into it, and basically have a far cheaper 335is.
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Mar 6, 2011 13:52
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King-Kong posted:Can always find a CPO 335i before the N55 was used, then throw a tune into it, and basically have a far cheaper 335is. That's a good thought, any clue how the tunes are reliability wise?
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Mar 6, 2011 14:32
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Wouldn't the 335 be cheaper than the M3 in the long run? What with all the maintenance and more expensive parts in the M3.
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Mar 6, 2011 16:28
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Cojawfee posted:Wouldn't the 335 be cheaper than the M3 in the long run? What with all the maintenance and more expensive parts in the M3. M-Tax is really over exaggerated. Oil changes are stupid but everything else is relative to owning a BMW. If you have the money go for the M. If you're buying a new M anyways chances are you can afford the slight difference in parts between a pricey 335is and a pricey M3. It's going to be a new M3 I assume so you don't have to worry about expensive parts for quite a long time. If the fear of the car blowing up (it won't) are that great of a concern drop the money for the longer warranty even though it's not worth it in the end.
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Mar 6, 2011 16:46
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Cojawfee posted:Wouldn't the 335 be cheaper than the M3 in the long run? What with all the maintenance and more expensive parts in the M3. Not when your 335 spends every week at the dealership getting a new HPFP  The tunes are very reliable though. With BMW's free maintenance it's a wash until you get out of the warranty period and most M3s are still in the warranty period.If you plan on going to the track, M3 is definitely the way go. I would consider getting an older m3 though (e46 or e36), because parts will be so much cheaper and so will track insurance (assuming you aren't rich). A 335 is an amazing DD, but a track car it is not, unless you like lapping in limp mode. You could get a CPO 335 (tune the poo poo out of it) and buy a track ready e46/e46 m3 for the price of a new M3. Taking your brand new BMW to the track may also give them cause to deny some of the free maintenance.
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Mar 6, 2011 17:40
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VibrioCholera posted:M-Tax is really over exaggerated. Oil changes are stupid but everything else is relative to owning a BMW. If you have the money go for the M. If you're buying a new M anyways chances are you can afford the slight difference in parts between a pricey 335is and a pricey M3. It's going to be a new M3 I assume so you don't have to worry about expensive parts for quite a long time. If the fear of the car blowing up (it won't) are that great of a concern drop the money for the longer warranty even though it's not worth it in the end. I thought I remembered reading that the M3 require expensive valve adjustments every 30k or so, according the service manual?
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Mar 6, 2011 18:17
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Realjones posted:Not when your 335 spends every week at the dealership getting a new HPFP I've read this elsewhere as well (the 335 is not a good track car). Is the 135 any different? Or same story? The M3 is one of those things that I *could* do, but it's not the most sound decision as ultimately it would be emotion overriding logic if I were to pick one up  .
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Mar 6, 2011 19:13
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Beach Bum posted:http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1254&mospid=47308&btnr=25_0093&hg=25&fg=05 While you should probably look into this first, it's possible your transmission is locked up. I had this same problem a few months ago, although mine was stuck in reverse (actually, I think you suggested my shifter console bushings poo poo the bed as well, Beach Bum). Bought the whole rebuild kit off Bav-auto, and ended up dropping the whole transmission to replace the clutch, pressure plate, do the rear-main, etc. The selector shaft on the transmission is completely locked up and doesn't budge anywhere. Buuut, I just bought a used Getrag 260 earlier this week for $100. And it also happened to come with a 2.7 stroker that I probably won't use  The guy had an '89 325is that he was restoring for his son, a completely mint E30 318 convertible, an E36 318Ti M-package that looked like it came straight off the showroom floor, and a '99 M Coupe, which I didn't get to see unfortunately.
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Mar 6, 2011 19:30
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The Third Man posted:I thought I remembered reading that the M3 require expensive valve adjustments every 30k or so, according the service manual? You are correct, for the e46 M3. The new ones don't require it, and the maintenance schedule is less expensive. Inspections are due on the e46 M3 every 30k or so, depending on how hard you drive it. Each inspection costs a thousand bucks or so at an indie place, $1500 at the dealer. You can do it yourself, but you'll need a shim kit ($400), attention to detail, and 3-6 hours your first time. Maintenance is much cheaper on the e9x cars, though. There's no way I would settle for a 335is for the money they charge.
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Mar 6, 2011 19:47
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Cojawfee posted:Wouldn't the 335 be cheaper than the M3 in the long run? What with all the maintenance and more expensive parts in the M3. Not if a turbo lets go outside of warranty. And the fuel system has already been mentioned.
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Mar 7, 2011 11:50
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allonblack posted:I've read this elsewhere as well (the 335 is not a good track car). Is the 135 any different? Or same story? Despite chronic understeer and HPFP failurse every month*, I really enjoyed tracking my 335i (though towards the end it was only AutoX). It was also bone stock except for some cheap Kosei wheels and Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Specs. In the short time I had it it was very competitive with e46 m3's at the same events (typically beating them). *I believe these are 'fixed' now 
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Mar 7, 2011 13:11
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King-Kong posted:
I haven't had to replace mine in over a year now! Pretty sure that is a record.
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Mar 7, 2011 13:18
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allonblack posted:I've read this elsewhere as well (the 335 is not a good track car). Is the 135 any different? Or same story? Ya the 135 has the same engine and same issues. The M3 is definitely the track car to have if you can afford it. Most people can't afford to replace $60K cars though, so they run older stuff like previous gen M3s, miatas, 944s, e30s, etc.
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Mar 7, 2011 16:06
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wallaka posted:You are correct, for the e46 M3. The new ones don't require it, and the maintenance schedule is less expensive. Inspections are due on the e46 M3 every 30k or so, depending on how hard you drive it. Each inspection costs a thousand bucks or so at an indie place, $1500 at the dealer. You can do it yourself, but you'll need a shim kit ($400), attention to detail, and 3-6 hours your first time. I've got about 55k on my car and I don't think it's ever seen an inspection 2. The display tells me to do it but I really don't have the dollars to pony up for it. It's definitely something in its future I just don't drive the car that often or hard to get it right away. Other than that "inspection" it's an awesome car and you could track the hell out of it. Most people regard the E46 M3 as the best one out there. It's daily drivable but it's still a sports car for sure. Go test drive one and you won't be disappointed. You'll definitely like it. There's nothing on the car that I can pick on besides my C-pillar inside likes to come unglued for some reason. 
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Mar 7, 2011 18:31
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Welp, picking up an E36 M3 tomorrow. It's a 1996 M3 Coupe in silver with contour wheels. It has 150,000 miles on it, and it was maintained by a local German car shop / Dinan distributor. It had the engine replaced at 100,000 miles due to low compression, suspension replaced and upgraded to Dinan "stage 2" specs at 120,000, and cooling system completely replaced at 120,000. Mods besides suspension are Dinan intake and tune. The car is completely immaculate inside and out, looks like it just rolled off the show room, and it has a stack of service records over an inch thick. The shop made me very comfortable with the sale, and they're replacing the brake pads and rotors tomorrow for no cost before I pick it up. I'll post back with pics tomorrow evening.
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Mar 8, 2011 06:26
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CamH posted:Welp, picking up an E36 M3 tomorrow. It's a 1996 M3 Coupe in silver with contour wheels. It has 150,000 miles on it, and it was maintained by a local German car shop / Dinan distributor. It had the engine replaced at 100,000 miles due to low compression, suspension replaced and upgraded to Dinan "stage 2" specs at 120,000, and cooling system completely replaced at 120,000. Mods besides suspension are Dinan intake and tune. The car is completely immaculate inside and out, looks like it just rolled off the show room, and it has a stack of service records over an inch thick. The shop made me very comfortable with the sale, and they're replacing the brake pads and rotors tomorrow for no cost before I pick it up. I'll post back with pics tomorrow evening. Ahhh what a great feeling, congrats! How much did you get it for?
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Mar 8, 2011 06:42
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I had a post-it on my cluster for three weeks with the mileage I needed to reset the trip odometer at to get this.
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Mar 8, 2011 07:42
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wolrah posted:I had a post-it on my cluster for three weeks with the mileage I needed to reset the trip odometer at to get this.  I actually have video of it clocking over, with everyone in the car cheering the vanity trip is awesome and your photo timing is pretty good, considering you were doing 65 EvilMoFo fucked around with this message at 08:19 on Mar 8, 2011 |
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Mar 8, 2011 08:11
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EvilMoFo posted:the vanity trip is awesome and your photo timing is pretty good, considering you were doing 65 I was expecting to be able to pull off the road and lap a parking lot a few times when I got near that point, but instead was on the turnpike, so that's actually a screencap from a video. A lot easier to just hold the phone on my wheel and hope one frame ends up in focus rather than trying to take a good pic in 6 seconds at speed.
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Mar 8, 2011 16:29
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wolrah posted:I had a post-it on my cluster for three weeks with the mileage I needed to reset the trip odometer at to get this. I'm still wrapping my head around the fact the you had to remember to reset the trip meter 789 miles ahead of time, lovely. Well done sir.
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Mar 8, 2011 17:35
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Fermunky posted:I'm still wrapping my head around the fact the you had to remember to reset the trip meter 789 miles ahead of time, lovely. Well done sir. I hardly look at my fuel gauge yet alone the odometer. I guess when it hits a bunch of the same number I noticed once in my life.
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Mar 8, 2011 17:50
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